Blues Creek Guitars Kit - Preparing the Rims
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- Blues Creek Guitars presents Building your Blues Creek Guitars Guitar Kit: Preparing the Rims. This video is follows the Bending and Setting The Geometry Videos. In this video, you will learn how to trim the sides, and glue in the Neck and Heel blocks
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Liking my side bender John! As far as I am concerned John Hall has em' all beat, not one luthier that builds guitars and or sells luthier tools shares as much info on building as they do at blues creek, I am starting my first guitar ever with minimal wood working skills and per John's advice it's actually coming along. We might all take a lesson in marketing from John who is sharing wisdom on the art of lutherie, in return at least I can buy his products for the job! Thanks again John
Watch carefully. After the forward section is chalked up on the top side of the rims, John flips the sanding disc over to the flat side. I find this a very important hint. I recently completed a build using this technique and the results were excellent.
OK
we can shorten them Glad you like the rest of them . We are always here to help
thanks for the kind words , Brenda and I work hard to give you value and good information. I learned from people that shared information and the best I can do is pass on what I learn]
Do you have an opinion on the stew Mac kit guitar tool set? I am planning on doing a blues creek kit but I have zero tools.
John, nice video and some interesting fixtures for the build. Thanks for the info. What's your opinion on Taylor's "V" style top bracing? Thinking of trying it on my next build. Thanks again for the great videos.
I know 2 people that bought one and sold it after a month. Best advice is build one and try it for yourself .
Hey John-
I bought the dreadnaught kit from CFM. I believe you said that they already pre-sloped the back, no? Or do I have to worry about putting one of the sanding rigs together as you have in your setup?
And, just curious, why do you raise your mold off the table? Basically, I cut my sides, they fit perfectly, but the top side just sits flat on the table. Before I put in the purf, I w@nt to make sure I’m doing this right. Lol.
Love your vids. Very helpful.
Ryan
yes they are set up for you , back tapered. Look close you can see the radius that is the back the top is pretty flat. I raise the mold up on parallels so that I can lock the rim in the mold and it stays there till the top and back are attached. The mold is a tool to allow total control of symmetry of the body and neck block position. Be sure you check out the video on screwing in the neck block
Hi John: Great video as always. Question: where did you get those clamps that you used for the glue up? Obviously perfect for this job.............Thanks, Steve
they are sold at Grizzly tools
Hi John. Great video! Where can I buy those great double clamps. Guy
hi John, this is the third time that I have watched this particular video, great information, I just clued into the fact that you put the dovetail into the neck block before installing the neck block???
Why did you do it that way??
Also, are you going to sand a radius into or is it onto the ends of both the neck block and the tail blocks??
I do it that was only because I was trained to do it that way. Some have the jig to cut the dovetail after the body is made and that is fine. In this video I am setting the block then after they are set I pre sand the rim and blocks and place the kerfed lining . Then after that I will final prep the rim. Is is part one , check out the video Prepping the Rims to glue the back and top and that will show the next step
I do that to locate the center of the mortise. Don't assume the neck block is centered to the mortise.
So I know the tail block has a slight radius on it , but is this true for the neck block ? Or is it left flat ? I would assume flat to ease the making of the neck joint !?! Also , is the next step now screwing the neck block to the mold(your new method) or is this after kerfing ? Thanks , you guys are the best
depends where you get your neck block. Martin uses a radiused block . I also add a radius on my blocks. When the neck is set the area of the heel gets flattened
yes get them screwed in . I like to do them before I do the kerfing and get them in pretty close . That way after I glue in the kerfing the screws will align the blocks
Thanks for the help! The tail block I received has a hole drilled in the end. Is there a purpose for that before I cut it to length today?
+twenty2late the tail block shouldn't have a hole in it. You drill that later. If there is a hole plot that for the center or better yet plug it.
+Glenn LaSalle thanks....it's actually in the end grain. I have to trim it down so I'll just cut that side. It's currently avout 1.5 inches longer than the width of the sides.
Hi John, BSnow here. At 13:44 you state "I have established my center line by actually using the neck itself"... Was that in another video? What did I miss. Thanks, B.
I was talking about using the neck to mark the center of the neck block. Never assume the mortise of the neck is center to the neck block.
at 11:30 ,are you trying to make a flat upper bout for the finger board ext to lay flat against ?
I am making an angle into the rims and top so the fretboard will be true to the string line and saddle position
they are at Grizzly tools
John...do you have a video or instructions on your sanding set up? Basically looking for material and location for the center post. Thanks!
+twenty2late That is a plumbers flange 3/4 in with a 6 in nipple. The post is set to be dead center of the body.
hope this info helps you
again thanks for the interest , we are here to help
grizzly tools has them
Great videos, but your intros are waaaaayy too long. Love your work John.
i am sure you do build great guitars but your building technique is so lousy and messy it makes me literally lose my temper...
understand when doing it for video we try to show more .