I want to keep the focus on the oil break-in as I think that, if not done right and I bet its not 70% of the time, decreases the life of the machine significant way.. All recommendations appreciated.. We need them when we need-em and neglect them until we do. I was really surprised Generac did not recommend something like that. As a small engine builder, I see that as stupid.
I poored a spoon full of sae10w30 in spark plug hole. I seen another video that said to do it and another said not to. I'm so confused. Any information on this would be gratefully be appreciated.
@@ernestwalden3894 did you watch this video? I am demonstrating on a brand new generator fresh out of the box. Demonstrating the break-in of the engine. When I'm done I do pour an ounce of the motor oil into the spark plug hole and pull on it a few times to coat the walls with oil so the pistons and rings and so forth don't rust until it's actually used in an emergency. I hope I was able to clear that up for you
@@the1chainsawguy that's a good tutorial. When I did a break in for the first time, I used the sae 10w30 oil and pieces of debris came out with the used oil which is a good thing, then I switched to mineral Diesel multigrade heavy duty oil 15w40 with an API S which is a thicker oil but has antioxidants and detergents . The shell Rotella T4 triple protection 15w40, the Valvoline all Fleet 15w40, and the liqui Moly Touring high tech Diesel oil 15w40, they're all certified API S
Good video, I recommend a few things. For summer operation use a SAE 30W oil. For winter, use 10W30. Second, use aviation or non-ethanol fuel. Fuel will last a year or more, and will not gum up your carburetor as quickly. Lastly, run generator, under load, for 15 minutes every month. This will keep fresh gas in carburetor, lube crankcase oil seals, keep electrolytic capacitors from drying out, and help you spot any operational problems before the power goes out.
Break In 101: Step 1 - Before you even start, remove the spark plug and and 1-2 tablespoons of oil to help ensure your rings will be lubricated before you even try the 1st start, then replace the sparkplug. Step 2 - Add brand new oil and run the generator for 1 hour. Change the oil...it will be very dirty and have a lot of small metal particles. This is good and exactly what you want. Step 3- Add oil and run for the 2nd time for another hour and change the oil again. Step 4 - Change the oil for the 3rd time and run the engine again for an hour, only this time put around 500 watts of load on you generator. After the 3rd full hour of use, change the oil (4th time) and your break in period is complete. Generac is stupid if they are telling anyone to wait up to 25 hours before changing the oil. No wonder so many portable generators do not last very long.
Are the metal shavings magnetic? Some people recommend using magnetic dip stick covers and some generators even have parts sold by the manufacturer matching that description.
Thanks but I think you are not considering these are not cast iron or aluminum blocks another words that advise probably is automotive we are not talking about automotive here but thanks for watching.
@@slick41 we are finicky, I want to think that advice was in that context. In this video the generator is the subject and it sits until needed. When I pull it out it's likely going to be bad weather. Damp likely. If I need to run this and need to change the plug out in that environment I expect it to come out. I believe it will. I have never seen a bad result with my small equipment. My cast iron block 6 has it on its plugs. The mechanic does it automatically.
Seating the rings don't take all day. What does take time is washing those metal bits out. I don't think your comment about varying the load matters much either in this context. So the message still is folks get those metal bits washed out!
J J, This is the best comment here! I have a Honda EU3000is. The break-in was as follows: Three phases: Fill a container with 18 ounces of 10w-30 conventional. Add 2 ounces of "Lucas Oil Engine Break-in Additive With High Levels of Zinc". This follows directions on the bottle to replace 10% of oil with break-in additive. Remove the spark plug, add 1 ounce of mixture to cylinder. Slowly pull starter rope 10-15 times. Replace spark plug. Add the rest of the mixture to generator crankcase. Phase 1) Start and warm up generator 15 min. Add a 500 watt load, turn on the load for 5 min. Then turn off the load for 5 min. Do this cycle 3 times while letting the generator run the entire time. Turn off the generator and change oil. Let the generator cool down for 30 minutes. Phase 2) Repeat phase 1 except adding a 1000 watt load. Change oil when complete. Phase 3) Repeat phase 1 except adding a 2000 watt load. Change oil when complete. The directions on the Lucas Oil bottle state: For best results and extended engine life, add 1 bottle (16 ounces) to every oil change. For a 5 qt. capacity crankcase, that's replacing 16 ounces of engine oil with the Luca Oil additive. Which is 10%. As J J has recommended, do not switch to synthetic soon after break-in. I waited one year to switch. About 30 hrs. of engine runtime with the conventional 10w-30 and Zinc additive mixture.
@@seymourscagnetti1413 Lucas is not required to clean the metal out of the engine. Diatribes turn folks off. People with all cap names are usually very important people, :-)
Do they not start & test these from the factory before shipping? All my compressors have always came with oil & states it was tested for proper function. If this is the case will this still be beneficial? Also looking at one with 2hrs on it, but concerned after watching this & reading all the comments. Would hate to buy a $750 paper weight.
Hello and thanks for watching. How could it not be helpful? It was amazing how much metal was in that oil. Metal does not belong in the chamber. And the way they tell you to break it in that metal is floating around in there the whole time. If they briefly cranked it up I'm sure they used LP gas. I had to add the oil to it. It amazes me that they don't recommend steps like I've taken because I literally rinsed the metal out of the chamber by doing the multiple oil changes and I still used the 30 weight dino oil that they wanted me to use to bed the rings. I wish I had strained the oil and shown how much was there just a little bit so it takes scratch up the cylinder walls. I challenge you to follow the step s I have taken and then strained the oil through a white coffee filter it would blow our minds I believe to see what's left. Doing the proper maintenance is a pleasure and it's also a pleasure to have a piece of equipment last a long time I wish you all the best
@@the1chainsawguy Thanks for the reply and yes I definitely see how it would help, that was kind of a bonehead question on my part as I try and take every step to ensure longevity with equipment, sure didn't think it would take 4 oil changes. Wish they took this step or made them where this isn't needed because obviously in an emergency situations people won't be able to do this. I just bought a Makita Big Bore wheel barrel gas compressor. I did the proper break in and after the first time I use it I noticed oil seepage from the Honda gas engine, not the pump. Which is odd, because it didn't do this during the break in. Maybe change the oil again? Any recommendations? Thanks
@@the1chainsawguy I'm not exactly sure where it's coming from really. I bought this about 6 months ago but didn't use it until about a month ago. So not sure on returning it. I would love to as it's a pricey piece of equipment.
I bought a 2200w inverter generator and did 30 minutes varying load with supplied oil, 1 hour half load with 5w30 dino, another hour full load dino 5w30, and 3 hours half load dino 15w40. I still had some shine in it then but may have just been lil bubbles. Put 0w40 rotella and I'm going to put 8-10 about 60% load and see how it looks. I do notice some oil in the cylinder hoping it is just from the crank case vent and it is not going to burn oil. We shall see. I did have it slightly overfilled so that may be why it was ingesting some.
What were you using different weights of oil for I'm almost afraid to ask and In breaking in you wouldn't want to overfill the oil, never. The different weights are for different weather temperatures They wouldn't have a positive effect any other way. But it sounds like you made sure the oil had as little metal in it as possible. Thanks for watching. I'm using a synthetic motorcycle oil in mine now because of the additive package the anti-corrosion and it has a preservative in it so that the oil lasts longer than regular oil before breakdown.
@@the1chainsawguy I didn't really have any strategy with the different weights I was just indecisive more than anything. Had intended to run 5w30 syn as final fill and then changed my mind and decided on 0w40. The 15w40 was pretty much because I had some. I had also originally thought of running 0w30 but figured 0w40 might provide more protection. It'll probably be stored indoors anyway so I probably don't need 0w and even with that it gets to -40 so the thing would probably not start or catastrophically fail if I left it out side anyway. I think my deck I had it on must not be level because it was not overfilled until I checked it in another more level spot. Was able to get 5-10ml out of it before it sat level with the last thread in the oil fill.
@@juliogonzo2718 turkey basters in the tool box help. I found that on equipment you seldom use you have to worry about cylinder corrosion like around the rings so adding a little oil in the spark plug and pulling it over once or twice is helpful. Take a look at motorcycle oil and look at the benefits that they list for it oil expires, Diesel oil has a nice additive package in it. Sounds like you had fun anyway and care about your equipment.
I want to keep the focus on the oil break-in as I think that, if not done right and I bet its not 70% of the time, decreases the life of the machine significant way.. All recommendations appreciated.. We need them when we need-em and neglect them until we do. I was really surprised Generac did not recommend something like that. As a small engine builder, I see that as stupid.
I poored a spoon full of sae10w30 in spark plug hole. I seen another video that said to do it and another said not to. I'm so confused. Any information on this would be gratefully be appreciated.
I also started it before I poored the oil in the spark plug hole and ran it for about 1 hour. HELP PLEASE!
It's a firman duel fuel if that helps any
@@ernestwalden3894 did you watch this video? I am demonstrating on a brand new generator fresh out of the box. Demonstrating the break-in of the engine. When I'm done I do pour an ounce of the motor oil into the spark plug hole and pull on it a few times to coat the walls with oil so the pistons and rings and so forth don't rust until it's actually used in an emergency. I hope I was able to clear that up for you
@@the1chainsawguy that's a good tutorial. When I did a break in for the first time, I used the sae 10w30 oil and pieces of debris came out with the used oil which is a good thing, then I switched to mineral Diesel multigrade heavy duty oil 15w40 with an API S which is a thicker oil but has antioxidants and detergents . The shell Rotella T4 triple protection 15w40, the Valvoline all Fleet 15w40, and the liqui Moly Touring high tech Diesel oil 15w40, they're all certified API S
Good video, I recommend a few things. For summer operation use a SAE 30W oil. For winter, use 10W30. Second, use aviation or non-ethanol fuel. Fuel will last a year or more, and will not gum up your carburetor as quickly. Lastly, run generator, under load, for 15 minutes every month. This will keep fresh gas in carburetor, lube crankcase oil seals, keep electrolytic capacitors from drying out, and help you spot any operational problems before the power goes out.
Break In 101: Step 1 - Before you even start, remove the spark plug and and 1-2 tablespoons of oil to help ensure your rings will be lubricated before you even try the 1st start, then replace the sparkplug. Step 2 - Add brand new oil and run the generator for 1 hour. Change the oil...it will be very dirty and have a lot of small metal particles. This is good and exactly what you want. Step 3- Add oil and run for the 2nd time for another hour and change the oil again. Step 4 - Change the oil for the 3rd time and run the engine again for an hour, only this time put around 500 watts of load on you generator. After the 3rd full hour of use, change the oil (4th time) and your break in period is complete. Generac is stupid if they are telling anyone to wait up to 25 hours before changing the oil. No wonder so many portable generators do not last very long.
No one ever killed an engine by over servicing it !
@@AJ-qn6gd especially not a splash lubed engine!👍
Are the metal shavings magnetic? Some people recommend using magnetic dip stick covers and some generators even have parts sold by the manufacturer matching that description.
@@japrogramer I would bet a lot of it is aluminum or magnesium
@@japrogramer I would bet a lot of it is aluminum or magnesium
Great info and knowledge. I must point out that NGK specifically recommends NOT using anti seize on their plug threads. Thanks
Thanks but I think you are not considering these are not cast iron or aluminum blocks another words that advise probably is automotive we are not talking about automotive here but thanks for watching.
@@the1chainsawguy Yes I understand but NGK plugs are used in thousands of applications, only a handful of which are automotive.
@@slick41 we are finicky, I want to think that advice was in that context. In this video the generator is the subject and it sits until needed. When I pull it out it's likely going to be bad weather. Damp likely. If I need to run this and need to change the plug out in that environment I expect it to come out. I believe it will. I have never seen a bad result with my small equipment. My cast iron block 6 has it on its plugs. The mechanic does it automatically.
It is necessary to change the load several times during break in. And folks please do not change to synthetic oil after only three hours.
Seating the rings don't take all day. What does take time is washing those metal bits out. I don't think your comment about varying the load matters much either in this context. So the message still is folks get those metal bits washed out!
J J, This is the best comment here! I have a Honda EU3000is. The break-in was as follows: Three phases:
Fill a container with 18 ounces of 10w-30 conventional. Add 2 ounces of "Lucas Oil Engine Break-in Additive With High Levels of Zinc". This follows directions on the bottle to replace 10% of oil with break-in additive. Remove the spark plug, add 1 ounce of mixture to cylinder. Slowly pull starter rope 10-15 times. Replace spark plug. Add the rest of the mixture to generator crankcase.
Phase 1) Start and warm up generator 15 min. Add a 500 watt load, turn on the load for 5 min. Then turn off the load for 5 min. Do this cycle 3 times while letting the generator run the entire time. Turn off the generator and change oil. Let the generator cool down for 30 minutes.
Phase 2) Repeat phase 1 except adding a 1000 watt load. Change oil when complete.
Phase 3) Repeat phase 1 except adding a 2000 watt load. Change oil when complete.
The directions on the Lucas Oil bottle state: For best results and extended engine life, add 1 bottle (16 ounces) to every oil change. For a 5 qt. capacity crankcase, that's replacing 16 ounces of engine oil with the Luca Oil additive. Which is 10%.
As J J has recommended, do not switch to synthetic soon after break-in. I waited one year to switch. About 30 hrs. of engine runtime with the conventional 10w-30 and Zinc additive mixture.
@@seymourscagnetti1413 Lucas is not required to clean the metal out of the engine. Diatribes turn folks off. People with all cap names are usually very important people, :-)
Do they not start & test these from the factory before shipping? All my compressors have always came with oil & states it was tested for proper function.
If this is the case will this still be beneficial?
Also looking at one with 2hrs on it, but concerned after watching this & reading all the comments.
Would hate to buy a $750 paper weight.
Hello and thanks for watching. How could it not be helpful? It was amazing how much metal was in that oil. Metal does not belong in the chamber. And the way they tell you to break it in that metal is floating around in there the whole time. If they briefly cranked it up I'm sure they used LP gas. I had to add the oil to it. It amazes me that they don't recommend steps like I've taken because I literally rinsed the metal out of the chamber by doing the multiple oil changes and I still used the 30 weight dino oil that they wanted me to use to bed the rings. I wish I had strained the oil and shown how much was there just a little bit so it takes scratch up the cylinder walls. I challenge you to follow the step s I have taken and then strained the oil through a white coffee filter it would blow our minds I believe to see what's left. Doing the proper maintenance is a pleasure and it's also a pleasure to have a piece of equipment last a long time I wish you all the best
@@the1chainsawguy Thanks for the reply and yes I definitely see how it would help, that was kind of a bonehead question on my part as I try and take every step to ensure longevity with equipment, sure didn't think it would take 4 oil changes.
Wish they took this step or made them where this isn't needed because obviously in an emergency situations people won't be able to do this.
I just bought a Makita Big Bore wheel barrel gas compressor. I did the proper break in and after the first time I use it I noticed oil seepage from the Honda gas engine, not the pump. Which is odd, because it didn't do this during the break in. Maybe change the oil again? Any recommendations?
Thanks
@@wheelsone6180 you don't say where it's coming from. I would take it back. Now or never you just got it.
@@the1chainsawguy I'm not exactly sure where it's coming from really. I bought this about 6 months ago but didn't use it until about a month ago. So not sure on returning it. I would love to as it's a pricey piece of equipment.
I bought a 2200w inverter generator and did 30 minutes varying load with supplied oil, 1 hour half load with 5w30 dino, another hour full load dino 5w30, and 3 hours half load dino 15w40. I still had some shine in it then but may have just been lil bubbles. Put 0w40 rotella and I'm going to put 8-10 about 60% load and see how it looks. I do notice some oil in the cylinder hoping it is just from the crank case vent and it is not going to burn oil. We shall see. I did have it slightly overfilled so that may be why it was ingesting some.
What were you using different weights of oil for I'm almost afraid to ask and In breaking in you wouldn't want to overfill the oil, never. The different weights are for different weather temperatures They wouldn't have a positive effect any other way. But it sounds like you made sure the oil had as little metal in it as possible. Thanks for watching. I'm using a synthetic motorcycle oil in mine now because of the additive package the anti-corrosion and it has a preservative in it so that the oil lasts longer than regular oil before breakdown.
@@the1chainsawguy I didn't really have any strategy with the different weights I was just indecisive more than anything. Had intended to run 5w30 syn as final fill and then changed my mind and decided on 0w40. The 15w40 was pretty much because I had some. I had also originally thought of running 0w30 but figured 0w40 might provide more protection. It'll probably be stored indoors anyway so I probably don't need 0w and even with that it gets to -40 so the thing would probably not start or catastrophically fail if I left it out side anyway. I think my deck I had it on must not be level because it was not overfilled until I checked it in another more level spot. Was able to get 5-10ml out of it before it sat level with the last thread in the oil fill.
@@juliogonzo2718 turkey basters in the tool box help. I found that on equipment you seldom use you have to worry about cylinder corrosion like around the rings so adding a little oil in the spark plug and pulling it over once or twice is helpful. Take a look at motorcycle oil and look at the benefits that they list for it oil expires, Diesel oil has a nice additive package in it. Sounds like you had fun anyway and care about your equipment.