How To Manage Boost Control [GO FAST BRETT]
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
- In this episode of Go Fast Brett we talk about common boost issues and how to fix them.
This series is proudly brought to you by Mighty Car Mods and GFB
www.gfb.com.au
www.mightycarmods.com 
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![💬 How CO2 Boost Control Works [Technically Speaking]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LyOhfDw54zo/mqdefault.jpg)
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New episode of Mighty Car Mods due out today on the main MCM Channel!
mcmtv2 yeah fianlly been waiting all week, thank you sooo much
MAAAADDD!!!
Hell yeah guys! that always brightens up my day
mcmtv2 whoop whoop from the UK
Woohoo!
3AM, non-turbo car.... Still watching... Brett is awesome!
Always good info from Brett straight forward and easy to understand! Respect
hey HEY...wtf man, you didn't try to sell something! too many helpful facts. :P
I love this series. Plenty of useful information, brief, well thought, well presented.
I love videos like this that talk about the technical aspects of tuning. Thanks!
a few minutes of highly useful information. Well done *claps*
Cant get enough of go fast brett!
another awesome technical info video! would love to see longer more in depth tech stuff. great job from the OG, Brett! thanks Brett and mcm
I absolutely love these videos, you were made for this Brett!
Good job Brett. Best episode yet!!!
Awesome stuff!!! Best episode yet!
great informative video, funny thing is i already knew all this info but it was so well delivered that i kept watching
Lots of great info here. Keep these coming!!!
awesome series, thanks!
My car isn't even boosted why am I here
Javier Solis dont even have a car
Cuz you're probably wishing it was
I don't even have a license..
mrawesomelemons but one day you will, and your buddy will buy a shit boosted Honda from Craigslist, and your the only one who's gonna know how to fix it 😉
Educating yourself before you turbocharge it so your car don't end up like Phil.
love these videos, so much knowledge!
Video was very informative and helpful!
Thank you Brett, very well explained.
I love GFB Parts we just need more more!
Really liked this explanation video!
great video, very informative
Very Helpful! Thank you so much!
I needed this so bad. Thank you. My car is saved.
1997 Saab 900 Squad
Saab's are slow.....
You just talk shit for no reason what a clown , no doubt u drive junk. He could be fast as hell for all you know .
more tech vids, always great!
Brett should do a piece on compressor maps, surge lines and efficiency islands. Hopefully help people who don't understand it or even know about it have some insight into correct turbo sizing.
Good information I love these videos
awesome video!
love these vids quick lessons
I do like it when the solution is "fit a bigger turbo!" :D
Actually with the SRT-4 (Neon) and the Focus ST, when the boost starts to drop off, a wastegate with a stronger spring extends the boost longer, increases torque and horsepower. I've done this on both cars. Added preload to the stock WG on the Focus ST, picked up 1.7 mph in trap speed for only about 10-15 degree increase in intercooler exit temps. Added a AGP WG to the SRT-4 fixed the boost leaks, exhaust and slicks as the only mods other than Stage 1 PCM = 12.7@104
Great Video 👍
nice vid man
From my experience, boost creep is not only solved by fitting a larger wastegate as Brett mentions. I had a ka-t in a nissan pickup that would boost creep with a 38mm external gate from 7psi to about 10psi after 5000rpm on a holset hy35 turbo. The pipe for the wastegate extended down under the truck with a slash cut towards the front of the vehicle for some reason. I believe the restriction due to the length or the pressure from the moving air would somewhat limit the flow capability of the wastegate. When I swapped this same engine to an rx-7, I had no boost creep at all. The wastegate pipe was shortened so it was not in the air stream below the car and had a flat cut at the end. This is definitely a weird situation I encountered but those are my observations.
Also I think another solution to solve boost creep would be to install a more restrictive exhaust, or turn up the boost. The less restrictive your exhaust, the larger the difference in pressure across the turbine due to the near atmospheric pressure at the turbine outlet, thus making your turbine more efficient. With a higher turbine efficiency, the wastegate will have to bleed off even more air at higher RPM's. If it can't do this, it will just build more boost, or creep. Turning up the boost could also achieve this because the wastegate would be required to flow less air to maintain a higher pressure. Obviously these methods are unorthodox but they may do the trick.
Right job thanks lads
very informative.. thank you
Would be nice to see a video on pressure/vacuum-leak analysis.. as there are so many places where there could be a leak in a full turbo system (or on a NA engine as well). As it's so critical when turbo-cars get pressure leaks (or for that matter the opposite which often happens on BMW's with "suction" based engines, where they'll get complete power loss from tiny vacuum-leaks), it would be nice to know all possible ways to find where it's coming from...
..as the soap-water method doesn't always work or may not be possible to use to find the leak-location, due to a plethora of things can make it useless ranging from location of the leak to clutch-fans constant airflow etc.
Very Very important. Something so simple yet overlooked so often.
Amen to that. Currently having boost fluctuation and drop off on my Volvo. Pretty sure it's a leak or faulty wastegate as you can hear pressure being release at wrong times I.e when full throttle and it also sometimes hesitates like on boost off boost on boost off boost if you hold a constant low gear high rev. Weird and frustrating!
I have a 850 Turbo! Mines fine but I have an R ECU, TCV, silicone lines, and a 16T with a 16psi CBV spring to go into it whenever I get my exhaust.
What are the pros and cons of using a manual boost controller versus an electronic controller? And what about 2 port versus 3 port controllers?
And will we ever get a video of what blowoff valves make different noises? (like whoosh vs chirp vs flutter)
I bought a saab and I gotta say its aamazing. Small turbo but big fun.
Xan Rzb bang a real turbo in there and it will be even better (y)
Can you have a episode explaining sequential twin turbos and twin scroll turbos
what are your thoughts on putting a stiffer spring internal gate actuator on a turbo to control boost?
Go fast Brett! Could we possibly see some videos on how vnt turbos work and how the boost pressure can be managed/manipulated on the vacuum controlled turbos (eg zd30 patrol and amarok)
thanks Brett
my car has a 2.4L engine and a T3/T4 turbo and I've experienced both the boost spike and the boost taper. the taper happens at highway speeds about 80mph. if I try to go WOT the car feels like it has a parachute on it...could my turbo still be too small? thanks Brett
Hm, I just install one of the GFB and now my engine is stopping when I drive my car...
after i try to start it, is starting a little bit harder with the EPC light on...
any ideas? (1.8T Bam engine Cupra R)
Fork! Why does this dude not sell turbo's! It would be so cool if Brett could recommend some turbo's for us. I want to turbo my TD42 so bad but am like hmmm.. $500 eBay turbo, what's the difference between that and a Garrett GTX?
very helpful
For the 3rd issue (boost creep) can this not happen also if the wastegate arm is too stiff?
with the boost instability will you be hearing backfire from the exhaust?
Funny I was just thinking not too long ago that I hadn't seen a Go Fast Brett video in a while...
Ive got some tapering on my 6266 its dropping 5 lbs at redline and shouldn't be any suggestions?
That is a very little Turbo, like ideal for B16 mounted in some Mini ;)
What type of turbo is that and what engine is it from/used on?
My car does the last one sometimes specially when its hot outside. I have a koup sx turbo (factory) i really hate when it does that
Being new to turbo cars I put a manual regulator on and no matter what I get the check engine light on and reduced power is displayed so im leaving it well enough alone
Some say that boost creep can be tuned out.. what's your take on this?
hey Brett.......how about an episode on PID control ?
I have a major issue, I make 0 psi and when I check under the bonnet, there's no turbo. Please help
YEAH MCM
Is it pissible to let boost bleed without a vacum line? Just spring preassure
well looks like its time for a bigger turbo boys the stock vf48 running 23 psi is just not cutting it even with full e85
Man, is that a Mossimo hoodie? Haven't seen one of those since the 90's!
Can I put a aftemarket boost controller on a V70n 2,4T? It got a eletric boost controller atm :)
Boost Variation can be an issue if you're using a factory ECU and adding mods. The ECU tries to self-tune to maintain the system in stock configuration, but things aren't going as expected due to increased boost by a piggyback tuner, etc. The result is the ECU frequently can "detune" itself when you're driving hard beyond the torque limiters. It ends up being powerful one day, and sluggish the next, as the ECU can never predict what is going to happen next.
This is something owners of Fiat 500 Abarths experience when trying to use piggyback tuners. It ends up totally unpredictable, you never know if you're going to burn off the tires, or just be a little faster than stock. The only solution in cases like this is to use an actual ECU tune rather than piggyback modifications. The good news for American owners of this platform is someone just released a full tune today (FINALLY!) for 2014 and newer.
However, as emissions controls become stricter, and ECU management systems more tightly controlled, expect more and more cars to use similar systems to pull performance back to stock despite modifications. It's really frustrating, and if you get such a car, your only real solution is to hope you can get a full ECU reflash.
I was looking forward for this!!! Now I know that my Abarh needs ECU Tune up. But will it be so necessary for just an intercooler upgrade and a Madness cold air intake + k&n filter? Thank you for the info!
If you want to make more than about 190-200 bhp then you really need an ECU tune. Piggyback tuners on the Abarth make the ECU an unhappy camper and while some days it's really good, others it's not so good.
If your goal is around that, then you're OK with a piggyback, but many people have noticed even at only 190-200bhp that there's a huge unpredictability in day to day performance, like the ECU is *always* having to adapt. That's something that the tune alleviates.
Btw, it is Eurocompulsion who released the tune. They had a competitor working on one, but in the words of Steve Jobs "Real Artists Ship".
Thank you very much for your help! cheers!
The first graph is literally how all VAG turbo cars map their boost, i.e. with the slight overboost initially.
Lots of factory cars spike the boost early, the Neon SRT-4 did this. In fact with a new WG you can make the car spike 20 psi and over 400 lbs of torque. Sure it's a narrow torque band but they use that torque to run low12's, high 11's on stock turbo.
I installed a boost tee to my hilux and there was no gain in psi, I winded it slowly til there was no more clicks. Still nothing so I switched the hoses thinking it could help but nope. Someone point me in the right direction
is there such a thing as to big wastegate?
Notification squad
👍😃
go video !! you should try edit the voice volume 15% higher. i have to up the sound on your video
my dad had a Volvo 740 Wentworth turbo, he didn't bother with any of the stuff you said, he simply removed the vacuum pipe going into the wastegate, so in theory the wastegate will only open on max boost. is this ok? is it even effective?
In that case, the wastegate won´t open at all. Which in turn means no boost control via the wastegate. Which might mean no boost control at all (if no blow-off or re-circ fitted). I´d say not a good solution.
Brett had a vid about this on this channel if i remember correctly,
myrakas86 oh ok, I think the wastegate did open, cause it replicates a mbc on full open setting, just may overboost or something, no blow off valve on the car
The exhaust pressure will overcome the wastegate so it will open, is it ok to run that much boost? no, it's a great way to kill the turbo or the engine.
Cool
Mad
Not happy with your theory, you really need to check the turbos A/R ratio map to ensure it won't "overboost" causing it to heat the air rather than produce "more boost". Adding a boost controller can be difficult with larger turbo's, but Ive found a 0.8mm restrictor in the feed line from the compressor or inlet will give finer adjustment with either internal or external wastegates controlled by the ECU, not manual bleed.
We need episodes for the other folks, too! Brett is good, but you guys have a lot of brainy friends.
Can you get Turbo Yoda to do a thing on welding, give a basic explanation of it all and the methods he uses etc ?
ElectricRides step 1: buy a welder
step 2: try it
I will most likely, I am not gonna spend $6000 on a turbo kit
ElectricRides there's plenty of channels that have already gone over welding
ChuckE2009, etc
Just baught a 1989 Subaru legacy GT 2.0 single turbo. The turbo is definitely not working like it should. In first gear I can put my foot flat and nothing really happens for quite some time. Then in 3rd gear at 4k rpm the turbo was not even their... It should be sky rocketing me but it just seems to cunt in and out or have extreme lag. Can anyone help?
Also the turbo was repaired not too long ago
+It's fking Eth, I hope you figure what the issue is. Maybe you should consider editing your comment "cut" does not have an "N" in it. (lol)
I am new to this Turbolife, but I feel that I have learned a lot over the past month as I have taken on the task of replacing a turbo in my XT.
If the turbo shaft still spins freely then the most logical cause to a lack of boost is a major Boost leak. You can do a Boost Leak Test. If the charging system (intake) holds pressure pretty well (decompresses very slowly) then you could rule out a major boost leak as being the culprit.
So the other logical possibility (for lack of boost) could be that the Wastegate Door is stuck AJAR (in the open/bypass position). If that is not the issue then something must be wrong with the turbine or compressor (either the turbo shaft is not spinning or turbo shaft could be broken).
If the turbo was oil starved, it would stop working. The Stock Union Bolts (also known as banjo bolts or union screws) that attach the turbo oil feed line to the turbo (like on a stock IHI VF 40) will starve the turbo of oil. The holes in the stock union bolt Turbo oil feed line are too small.
The following statements are just my personal opinion:
GENERAL TURBO RELATED ADVICE FOR DRIVERS OF TURBOCHARGED VEHICLES (Re: 2005 or newer Turbocharged Subarus)
1. If you have a Turbo car you should always check the Oil Level and the Coolant Level (every time if possible) before you drive the car. Be as O.C.D. as possible about checking the engines oil level. Turbos are expensive to replace and a bit of preventive maintenance goes a long way in this regard. Do oil changes frequently keep your paperwork for the oil changes if your car is under warranty. If you can not prove that you did every oil change without being late and with Full synthetic oil (avoid Mobil 1), Subaru will deny your warranty and blame you for your turbo failure. Be sure to remove Union bolt screen on Oil feed line (under turbo). Be sure to Top off the oil if engine oil level is low.
Having a Low Oil level or low oil pressure is considered the most common cause of Turbo failure. The second most common cause of lack of boost is being denied boost by the turbo gods for not being "cool enough" and/or not "understanding" how a turbo works. A Blood sacrifice will be needed. Just run over a squirrel or two to remedy this. Just kidding, but if you replace your turbo on your own you learn a lot about how they work! Oil changes on Subaru Turbo cars are to be done every 3750 miles with Full Synthetic Oil. Subaru has there "own" synthetic motor oil but rumor has it, that it is made by AMSOIL. I would recommend changing the oil and filter every 2000-2500 miles as the oil gets much hotter when it runs thru a turbo then just a NA engine (NA= naturally aspirated or w/ no turbo).
2. Manual transmission drivers with a turbo should avoid going over 4000 RPM in 1st gear and/or avoid boosting in first if possible. I try to keep the RPMs under 3500 in 1st gear. I believe that revving out the turbo vehicles first and second gears, is how most manual drivers ruin their 1st and 2nd gears.
Gradually use more gas. Pretend you have a raw egg under your right foot and you have to accelerate without breaking this imaginary egg. This is how they teach commercial truck drivers to accelerate. This will allow your engine to make better fuel/air ratios which is safer for your engine. Gradual acceleration will also save your transmission from wear and tear. It's not as fun to drive like an old person but it's also not fun replacing turbos and engines.
Boost should be most noticeable in 3rd and 4th gear.
You should Never "Floor it" unless you ARE a race car driver (and in a race), or your life depends on it.
3. Don't EVER Park a turbo car on a hill (it will ruin the seals inside your turbo).
Avoid driving up or down hills if possible, and avoid driving up or down Mountains. Avoid Colorado. The air is too thin and your car would need a flash tune for high altitude.
Always let your turbocharger cool down @ least 2 mins (I like to do 3-5 minutes) before turning off a turbo vehicle.
4. Also... if you care about your turbo car...then don't drive it.
finally... not about blow-off valves.
woohooo
Hey my name is Brett. 😂
Usnt that from the key car from key to the city
What car what that turbo off? Has 3 cylinder manifold.
Could be off a v6 twin turbo engine. Each turbo feeds 3 cylinders.
yea, I was thinking it could be a 3 cylinder or v6 twin turbo setup, but for a v6 wouldn't that take up a bunch of room if they were mounted like that on each side? I also doubt its off a Inline6 because you couldn't fit 2 of them next to each other. Prob is off a v6 or some 3 cylinder.
Dazzmond it's a subaru turbo, it's just on a custom stand.
yea ok, just looked like a 3 cylinder manifold, prob just using it as a stand like you say.
Dazzmond kei car or bike?
Can this guy become my teacher please?
what does this guy drive? make a video please
Teh RedSpade He Drive's the black gtr in the I will destroy all Nissan's episode. you can see the gfb number plates.
Brit
boost controllers to make power gains without tuning is not good for your engine
If a had a dollar for every time he says "boost" :p
First
Why can't I unsubscribe from this channel????!!