This is excellent! I paint entirely with a handbrush, and am very glad to see such helpful advice. I am building a Sherman myself right now, though in 1/35 scale. But I think I will use some of these techniques on it. Thanks!
I really appreciate this video. I’m just getting into the hobby and have been overwhelmed trying to replicate advanced techniques. This was easy to follow and understand. Thank you!
I really like your happy mood, after all it's about having fun. I have to start at zero, because my son and nephew are now into modeling tanks. So I decided to get into it too. Thanks for your tips.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Yep, really helpful AND entertaining 😁, perfect combination. My son struggles a bit with your dialect, but hey, he just started with English three years ago, so it isn't that bad (and your dialect isn't that thick). We just started with painting our little Tabletop Tanks and figures and use brushes for the beginning. Sadly using simple brushes seems a bit outdated, but I personally prefer it (for now). Stay healthy and keep laughing!
I never really comment on you tube videos however I really appreciate this tutorial. I’ve just got back into scale modelling and have just finish up my first model. Because of this tutorial I totally supervised myself how good it looks. Thank you so much!
Applying decals using Microsol, after the decals are drying I'd paint over them using Microset which gives the decal edges that non-yellowing effect over time. Plus decals should always be attached before starting to weather up the vehicle , so the randomness of the weathering covers the decals and the paint job, making it more realistic!
If you want, you can seal off the model with some topcoat before weathering, that way if you mess up, you can clean up without damaging your work on the waterslides.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. In this time I have the Tamiya M4 initial version on my workbench. I´s my thirth tank model. I´ll use your advices. Best regards from old Germany- Saxonia
Thank you very much. This was very useful. You didn't sound bored or monotonous as some other presenters tutorials I have watched. Kept my interest. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Keep it up.
When it comes to painting american armor, I almost never put on chipping effects. Those vehicles either were destroyed in battle or were immediately back in the motor pool and would have been painted within no time of being there. I rather use dirt, dust, mud, rain streak, etc...method of weathering. It just think it makes them look more realistic that way.
I haven’t read all the comments yet. Painting on a gloss coat makes a difference when applying decals. The gloss coat is what creates the super slick surface needed for the air bubbles to escape and eliminate the silvering effect common with waterslide decals. I’d apply the decals before you do any washes or dry brushing as well. Once the decals are on apply micro sol to get them to soften and conform to any irregular surfaces. Once dry, seal them with a flat clear coat. Then start applying washes and dry brushing. Otherwise it looks great. Just a Minor tweak to your decal process and you’ve got a solid build and painting process.
Vallejo's brown violet is such a nice colour for US WW2 vehicles ( wish I had it ). I used Army painters Army green spray can & washed it with Strong tone. Looking back I should have rather used Venom Wyrm as it is closer to olive green which was the colour I was going for. Excellent work & lots of useful tips for all kinds of AFV models. If you want to take the weathering to the next level, I can recommend Ammo by Mig's range of weathering products
Great Video, finally someone mentions using a gloss coat under decals. Well done. If you're interested, here's my process. Micro Set is nice, but I had problems with it in the past. Torn decals from it eating into them and decals not sliding. I found that using a bit of dish washing soap is better (and cheaper). I use a water pot that's about half the size (maybe a 3rd) you're using. I have an old Tamiya pot with soap in it, been using it for several years. I dip a toothpick into the soap then swirl the stick around in the water. The soapy water brakes up the surface tension on the model. I brush a little of the water into the model where I want the decal to go and after I placed it, I can move it around very nicely (on a gloss coat). Once it's in the right place, I use a cotton bud and roll over the decal squeezing out the water and the decal is now set. I then use Micro Sol if it doesn't cling to the model over details. I gloss coat the model before decaling, decal, then gloss over it again. It's a bit time consuming waiting for the coats to dry, but I find that it's worth the wait. Any hoo, I'm finding your channel quite entertaining and I'm enjoying it a lot. Keep up the awesome work. Cheers!
Thanks very much, and what a great suggestion! I've heard of using washing up liquid to make your own washes and inks, but never in applying decals. I'll definitely be giving this a try soon on a Cromwell that needs some markings. Much obliged for the tip!
Thank you for this video, I do still paint Miniatures, but I paint a lot more vehicles, and ships. It's nice to see tips on painting vehicles. Thank You!
if you want to loose the shiny-ness of the decals really easy and quick just paint a bit of lahmian medium over it. it also seals the decal :D u can also paint it under it before using the decal. that dulls it down to the level of the mini and u wont see any corners or edges of the decal on the mini
Just saw this, perfect timing--I have 2 freshly sprayed Shermans as we speak, and I will give this a try. BTW, I think they've renamed "Brown Violet" to "US Olive Drab". It's the same number, and I couldn't find any "Brown Violet" to buy anywhere when I was looking a while back.
They do that from time to time. At one time I couldn't find a particular shade of green for a while cos of the name change. T'was very confusing, picking the correct number from the rack and replacing it cos the name was wrong. I couldn't accept what Valejo had done! DAMN YOU VALEJO!! 😄
Old video, but I like the way you did this one. Really good tutorial for getting a weathered tank on the table, maybe even for a smaller display model. I would love to see what you use on Desert and Jungle theater tanks and vehicles too. Just a quick aside, how are those "Dry" pots lasting? I have seen a few people on the net comment that they find their Citadel Dry pots er...dry out quickly. Have you seen this with yours?
The Dry pots drying out and becoming unusable is something I've honestly never experienced. Some of these are now coming up on six or seven years old, having traveled with me from New Zealand to Germany, and I still crack them open and get the paint I need out of them. It could be it's a case of bad lids or something, but the paints themselves seem to work fine over time.
I actually picked up that little trick out of a White Dwarf. It seems simple in retrospect, but it'd never occurred to me to use something else to just keep the paper wet!
I don't think they produce Vallejo Brown Violet anymore. They do produce Vallejo Brown Violet Air. I guess it still works, the paint will just be a bit thinner.
Apparently there was a name change - it's now US Olive Drab, which is convenient! Still the same number, 887. Depending on where you're getting it from you'll occasionally find pots with the old name, though.
I am slightly late to the party, but I really enjoyed your modest yet extremely effective tutorial and have one question. What kind of weathering would you do over the decals to make them appear slightly discoloured, or...you know...weathered? Watered down light washes? Slight dry brushing perhaps? Thank you for your videos.
This is a really good question, and one I'll come back to answer tomorrow when I've got a little more time! Just wanted to let you know that I spotted this and I've definitely got some thoughts. :D
Hey Sonic Sledgehammer Studios, Ich habe eine Frage. Ich habe einen WinterPanzer 4 Bemalt und hab dort Decals drauf, die bei der Mini dabei lagen. Ein Zuschauer meinte, eine Schöne Mini, aber ich sollte zb den Wolfsangel auf RUclips unkenntlich machen. Hast du damit Erfahrungen? Gruß Darios Tabletop!
How do you go about priming vehicles specifically those larger ones, note don’t have an airbrush but and trying to prime an AAT from Legion and am using my Zandri dust but trying not too touch while paint drys.
Just lay the parts out on paper or card - somewhere flat outside, preferably! - and spray a coat over the top, let it dry thoroughly, then flip them to do the underside.
Great work and good video. Do you recall where you got the stowage stuff? In particular, what is that black thing on the left side of the tank and where did you get it?
Can you please tell me if it is possible to use US Olive Drab instead of Brown Violet paint? It seems to be a similar shade. And their license plate is the same 70.887. Or are they still different shades? The seller said that it was the same paint, only with a different name. After that I got confused. Unfortunately, I am not yet very good at such shades. :)
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio , thank you for such a prompt response! Yes, they have the same numbers. The only visual difference is that one paint is from the Panzer Series and the other is not. Taking this opportunity, I will ask one more question. In this video, what did you use US Dark Green 70.893 for? For which element? Maybe I was listening poorly and therefore did not hear, but I still did not understand why she was needed.
The "brightening up" i.e. covering up the wash stains just doesn't work for me at 4:53, it just covers up the recesses which have the wash with paint thus destroying your wash work. I've tried the same paint / brush and circular motion for painting and it just does not work.
Try even less paint on your brush while you're doing it, and apply a little less pressure to begin with. It certainly does work - the results are on screen! - but it can be a little tricky the first couple of times, especially on something with so many flat surfaces as a Sherman.
I tried it again on the same model that had the Strone Tone AP wash placed on it but this time I cut the old brush to give it a 'flat top' applied less paint and used a light circular motion and it still didn't work, also there were machine guns and antenna on the turret that didn't help, the wash in the crevasses was just covered up with the Olive Brown (U.S. Drab). Also the nasty tide marks were there and the Strong Tone gave a glossy look in places where the paint would not stick well (I tried hand painting but I have about 20 vehicles to do and I'll be here till Christmas). So from the olive drab base line with my Shermans I reckon I've got two options 1) do everything i.e. decals, chips, dry brushing etc then varnish (preferably with gloss) and then do a pin wash. Or 2) given that I resprayed my two Shermans in Olive drab go slowly with the Strong Tone wash and be careful in applying it (not just do a blanket sweep of the brush and then push the wash into the gaps) and just tidy up manually with a small brush and Olive Drab. I cannot think of any other options. I've never done a pin wash before i.e. applying gloss varnish (or some other varnish, I hope it works with Satin as I don't like gloss) so that's a scary prospect.
They'd really be incredibly similar to this, just using a different set of colours. It wouldn't be too hard to find the basic Vallejo colours to match in some painting guides, and apply the same principles in painting them on. Especially if you want to go the route of early war Panzer grey! ;D
Recently found and watched for tips, thanks. Tried your Facebook link which mentions its “ broken or doesn’t exist anymore?” Any help or just on RUclips subscribe.. thanks
This is the standard plastic M4 Sherman from Warlord Games. The only thing to watch for is the tracks can be a little confusing when first assembling the kit, but it's otherwise very simple and looks good on the table. store.warlordgames.com/products/plastic-m4-sherman-medium-tank
What colours would you use for a German ambush camouflage. I have my tank sprayed in Tamiya dark yellow and have the Tamiya colours required (nato green and nato brown) but I heard Tamiya paints are not good for brush painting. Thanks for the video
They aren’t good for brushing because they dry super fast since they have an alcohol base instead of water base. If you get a bottle of their drying retarder and add a drop or two to your paint you’ll have more time to work with it
There's a couple I quite like. The Citadel Large or Extra Large Base Brushes are really good for large, flat areas of paint, but otherwise the Army Painter range of brushes work quite well for the same. I love the wedge tip on their drybrushes - great for getting into tracks under running gear and the like!
Hello, I used Citadel Agrax Earthshade exactly as shown on the video but it has given the model a dirty effect, hardly affecting the places that need shading. Please help, what is a solution?
Unfortunately you can't just take it off - a couple of thin coats of your base colour again will be necessary to restart the process. If you're getting grubby, streaky issues, make sure you're shaking the shade well before use. Sometimes it can settle and you'll get weird effects of it, and make sure you're applying it over a thoroughly dry basecoat. Once you've got the surface green, leave it to dry for half an hour first, and see if you get a better result.
@@TheSulfuric1 Yeah, all I did was properly shake the bottle and apply more of it to the areas that require shading. Also a tip, when applying the main colour of the tank, paint over it with clear paint. After that, if you put thinner on a cotton bud, you can wipe away wash that you do not need on the model without washing off the main colour paint. Hope this helped! :)
They shouldn't slide off the backing paper when in water if high quality can't say that's happened to me for years think it was crappy airfix decals that used to do that alot! Nothing these days micro sols better the red one on it's own what kind of Sherman kit is this? Tracks on Sherman's are live tracks shouldn't sag
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This is excellent! I paint entirely with a handbrush, and am very glad to see such helpful advice. I am building a Sherman myself right now, though in 1/35 scale. But I think I will use some of these techniques on it. Thanks!
I really appreciate this video. I’m just getting into the hobby and have been overwhelmed trying to replicate advanced techniques. This was easy to follow and understand. Thank you!
The overbrush technique works like a champ !
I really like your happy mood, after all it's about having fun.
I have to start at zero, because my son and nephew are now into modeling tanks.
So I decided to get into it too.
Thanks for your tips.
Really glad to hear it! Here's hoping you enjoy it. :D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Yep, really helpful AND entertaining 😁, perfect combination.
My son struggles a bit with your dialect, but hey, he just started with English three years ago, so it isn't that bad (and your dialect isn't that thick).
We just started with painting our little Tabletop Tanks and figures and use brushes for the beginning. Sadly using simple brushes seems a bit outdated, but I personally prefer it (for now).
Stay healthy and keep laughing!
I never really comment on you tube videos however I really appreciate this tutorial.
I’ve just got back into scale modelling and have just finish up my first model.
Because of this tutorial I totally supervised myself how good it looks.
Thank you so much!
Really pleased to hear it! :D
My eight year old was entranced by this video, and requests that I inform you that your weathering details are really good.
I know these are older videos but i'm so grateful for them. Really well put together and everything very well explained.
Just FYI, Brown Violet has been rebreanded as Olive Drab
Applying decals using Microsol, after the decals are drying I'd paint over them using Microset which gives the decal edges that non-yellowing effect over time.
Plus decals should always be attached before starting to weather up the vehicle , so the randomness of the weathering covers the decals and the paint job, making it more realistic!
If you want, you can seal off the model with some topcoat before weathering, that way if you mess up, you can clean up without damaging your work on the waterslides.
As others have said, don't waste time using water on "water"slide decals. Microsol and Microset used together is the best way to go.
Thank you very much for this tutorial. In this time I have the Tamiya M4 initial version on my workbench. I´s my thirth tank model. I´ll use your advices. Best regards from old Germany- Saxonia
Thank you very much. This was very useful. You didn't sound bored or monotonous as some other presenters tutorials I have watched. Kept my interest. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Keep it up.
All it needs is Brad Pitt as TC. Inspirational. Masterful. Kudos and thanks.
Great torturial! I was looking for a video without an airbrush addict and here you are! :D
When it comes to painting american armor, I almost never put on chipping effects. Those vehicles either were destroyed in battle or were immediately back in the motor pool and would have been painted within no time of being there. I rather use dirt, dust, mud, rain streak, etc...method of weathering. It just think it makes them look more realistic that way.
Terrific tutorial, plus a great radio voice! Thanks for your advice!
Thank you so much for this guide. I’m not the best painter but I’m so happy with how mine just turned out. Couldn’t of done it without this vid. 👍🏻
I haven’t read all the comments yet. Painting on a gloss coat makes a difference when applying decals. The gloss coat is what creates the super slick surface needed for the air bubbles to escape and eliminate the silvering effect common with waterslide decals. I’d apply the decals before you do any washes or dry brushing as well. Once the decals are on apply micro sol to get them to soften and conform to any irregular surfaces. Once dry, seal them with a flat clear coat. Then start applying washes and dry brushing. Otherwise it looks great. Just a Minor tweak to your decal process and you’ve got a solid build and painting process.
Absolutely love your way of explaining, and your overall charisma. Great video! Keep it up❤️
Great video! Really made modelling feel a lot more approachable!
It looks good and what I like is you used paints that can be found at your local hobby or game shop. Thanks for sharing this.
Vallejo's brown violet is such a nice colour for US WW2 vehicles ( wish I had it ). I used Army painters Army green spray can & washed it with Strong tone. Looking back I should have rather used Venom Wyrm as it is closer to olive green which was the colour I was going for. Excellent work & lots of useful tips for all kinds of AFV models. If you want to take the weathering to the next level, I can recommend Ammo by Mig's range of weathering products
Well I have some Sherman's to do now so I will follow this guide and then some Tiger's and T34 and IS 2 what fun Keep up the Good work My Friend.
This is brilliant and I am going to try my hand using the exact same method on my Shermans. All the best. Subscribed.
Excellent work Sonic. Useful hints and tips, which i gonna use. thanks very much.
Glad to help!
Very helpful, interesting and enjoyable.
To-the-point instruction. Very helpful!
Very nicely done sir!!!!
Very enjoyable and informative, I love your easy style 👌😎☕️ Fred
Thanks for giving me some great ideas
If you use micro set it melts the decal so it moulds onto your model, without any of the trans paper showing. Really nice paint job.
great job
Great Video, finally someone mentions using a gloss coat under decals. Well done.
If you're interested, here's my process. Micro Set is nice, but I had problems with it in the past. Torn decals from it eating into them and decals not sliding. I found that using a bit of dish washing soap is better (and cheaper).
I use a water pot that's about half the size (maybe a 3rd) you're using. I have an old Tamiya pot with soap in it, been using it for several years. I dip a toothpick into the soap then swirl the stick around in the water. The soapy water brakes up the surface tension on the model. I brush a little of the water into the model where I want the decal to go and after I placed it, I can move it around very nicely (on a gloss coat). Once it's in the right place, I use a cotton bud and roll over the decal squeezing out the water and the decal is now set. I then use Micro Sol if it doesn't cling to the model over details.
I gloss coat the model before decaling, decal, then gloss over it again. It's a bit time consuming waiting for the coats to dry, but I find that it's worth the wait.
Any hoo, I'm finding your channel quite entertaining and I'm enjoying it a lot. Keep up the awesome work.
Cheers!
Thanks very much, and what a great suggestion! I've heard of using washing up liquid to make your own washes and inks, but never in applying decals. I'll definitely be giving this a try soon on a Cromwell that needs some markings. Much obliged for the tip!
Not a problem there sir. :-)
Awesome video for someone who is getting back into modelling again.....Thank you.
Thank you for this video, I do still paint Miniatures, but I paint a lot more vehicles, and ships. It's nice to see tips on painting vehicles. Thank You!
Simple and wonderful
Well done!
if you want to loose the shiny-ness of the decals really easy and quick just paint a bit of lahmian medium over it. it also seals the decal :D u can also paint it under it before using the decal. that dulls it down to the level of the mini and u wont see any corners or edges of the decal on the mini
Good tip
I am going to use this video for my first handpainted model. Its gonna be a 1:35 tor m2 from zvezda. Wish me luck!
Just saw this, perfect timing--I have 2 freshly sprayed Shermans as we speak, and I will give this a try. BTW, I think they've renamed "Brown Violet" to "US Olive Drab". It's the same number, and I couldn't find any "Brown Violet" to buy anywhere when I was looking a while back.
No wonder I couldn't find Brown Violet.
They do that from time to time. At one time I couldn't find a particular shade of green for a while cos of the name change. T'was very confusing, picking the correct number from the rack and replacing it cos the name was wrong. I couldn't accept what Valejo had done! DAMN YOU VALEJO!! 😄
Agrax earthshade is my go to wash colour
Just watched. Very useful!
Glad to hear it!
Thank you for video, I found it veeeery useful when painting american armor for the first time
Glad to hear that!
Old video, but I like the way you did this one. Really good tutorial for getting a weathered tank on the table, maybe even for a smaller display model. I would love to see what you use on Desert and Jungle theater tanks and vehicles too. Just a quick aside, how are those "Dry" pots lasting? I have seen a few people on the net comment that they find their Citadel Dry pots er...dry out quickly. Have you seen this with yours?
The Dry pots drying out and becoming unusable is something I've honestly never experienced. Some of these are now coming up on six or seven years old, having traveled with me from New Zealand to Germany, and I still crack them open and get the paint I need out of them. It could be it's a case of bad lids or something, but the paints themselves seem to work fine over time.
Great video. I'd very interested to know what colours you would use for early British WW2 armour.
really nice job!
Thank you!!!! Helped a lot!
Great video
Hi. I don't agrax earthshade for the washing, what can i use instead? Amy from Vallejo? Great video!!
Great info here! Thx. Do you have a video or resources on making a cover for where the barrel meets the turret?
I like and willing learn from you
Every time I tried to do decals, they ended up stuck to the side of the water dish, this is a good idea :D
I actually picked up that little trick out of a White Dwarf. It seems simple in retrospect, but it'd never occurred to me to use something else to just keep the paper wet!
I don't think they produce Vallejo Brown Violet anymore. They do produce Vallejo Brown Violet Air. I guess it still works, the paint will just be a bit thinner.
Apparently there was a name change - it's now US Olive Drab, which is convenient! Still the same number, 887. Depending on where you're getting it from you'll occasionally find pots with the old name, though.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you Sonic :)
I am slightly late to the party, but I really enjoyed your modest yet extremely effective tutorial and have one question. What kind of weathering would you do over the decals to make them appear slightly discoloured, or...you know...weathered? Watered down light washes? Slight dry brushing perhaps? Thank you for your videos.
This is a really good question, and one I'll come back to answer tomorrow when I've got a little more time! Just wanted to let you know that I spotted this and I've definitely got some thoughts. :D
fantastic, thank you!
Wow, this was the first model I ever made
In total what were the paints used in the tank? What have you painted the tracks and the stowage with as I’m at a loss, great video btw👍
Really usefull and fun, thanks!
Great video! Which model is that?
Hey there awesome video! could you recommend a beginners Army paint set around 100 bucks and do they come with the washes? Thank you
"circular motion... rub it" I had to think of Frank Zappa at this part.
Well done! But what's the primer? Us dark green + that brown? 50 % - 50%?
Hey Sonic Sledgehammer Studios, Ich habe eine Frage. Ich habe einen WinterPanzer 4 Bemalt und hab dort Decals drauf, die bei der Mini dabei lagen.
Ein Zuschauer meinte, eine Schöne Mini, aber ich sollte zb den Wolfsangel auf RUclips unkenntlich machen.
Hast du damit Erfahrungen?
Gruß
Darios Tabletop!
How do you go about priming vehicles specifically those larger ones, note don’t have an airbrush but and trying to prime an AAT from Legion and am using my Zandri dust but trying not too touch while paint drys.
Just lay the parts out on paper or card - somewhere flat outside, preferably! - and spray a coat over the top, let it dry thoroughly, then flip them to do the underside.
Where did you get those Decals, i been looking and looking and i can't find the Decals, i also am painting a Sherman Tank
Great work and good video. Do you recall where you got the stowage stuff? In particular, what is that black thing on the left side of the tank and where did you get it?
Spare track I believe.
Just awesome vid!
CAN YOU USE UNIFORM GREY FOR THE PRIMER?
Can you please tell me if it is possible to use US Olive Drab instead of Brown Violet paint? It seems to be a similar shade. And their license plate is the same 70.887. Or are they still different shades? The seller said that it was the same paint, only with a different name. After that I got confused. Unfortunately, I am not yet very good at such shades. :)
Some of the Vallejo range underwent a name change a little while ago. As long as the number matches, they should be correct. :)
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio , thank you for such a prompt response! Yes, they have the same numbers. The only visual difference is that one paint is from the Panzer Series and the other is not.
Taking this opportunity, I will ask one more question. In this video, what did you use US Dark Green 70.893 for? For which element? Maybe I was listening poorly and therefore did not hear, but I still did not understand why she was needed.
The initial basecoat of the vehicle is the dark green. After that, it's mixed in with Dark Sand to make the highlight/drybrush layer. :)
Gran Video. La verdad se ve muy sencillo. Gracias por el video.
Brilliant
Thank you kindly! :D
The "brightening up" i.e. covering up the wash stains just doesn't work for me at 4:53, it just covers up the recesses which have the wash with paint thus destroying your wash work. I've tried the same paint / brush and circular motion for painting and it just does not work.
Try even less paint on your brush while you're doing it, and apply a little less pressure to begin with. It certainly does work - the results are on screen! - but it can be a little tricky the first couple of times, especially on something with so many flat surfaces as a Sherman.
I tried it again on the same model that had the Strone Tone AP wash placed on it but this time I cut the old brush to give it a 'flat top' applied less paint and used a light circular motion and it still didn't work, also there were machine guns and antenna on the turret that didn't help, the wash in the crevasses was just covered up with the Olive Brown (U.S. Drab). Also the nasty tide marks were there and the Strong Tone gave a glossy look in places where the paint would not stick well (I tried hand painting but I have about 20 vehicles to do and I'll be here till Christmas).
So from the olive drab base line with my Shermans I reckon I've got two options 1) do everything i.e. decals, chips, dry brushing etc then varnish (preferably with gloss) and then do a pin wash. Or 2) given that I resprayed my two Shermans in Olive drab go slowly with the Strong Tone wash and be careful in applying it (not just do a blanket sweep of the brush and then push the wash into the gaps) and just tidy up manually with a small brush and Olive Drab.
I cannot think of any other options. I've never done a pin wash before i.e. applying gloss varnish (or some other varnish, I hope it works with Satin as I don't like gloss) so that's a scary prospect.
Do you think you’ll ever do one for non-camouflaged German tanks?
They'd really be incredibly similar to this, just using a different set of colours. It wouldn't be too hard to find the basic Vallejo colours to match in some painting guides, and apply the same principles in painting them on. Especially if you want to go the route of early war Panzer grey! ;D
Recently found and watched for tips, thanks. Tried your Facebook link which mentions its “ broken or doesn’t exist anymore?” Any help or just on RUclips subscribe.. thanks
Odd! Might be that I've broken the link by copying it wrong. Should work here, though! facebook.com/sonicsledgehammer
Is there an Army Painter paint you can recommend for the dry brush stage? Or a mix of AP paints to get the effect you did there?
There's none specifically that really spring to mind, I'm afraid. A colour conversion table somewhere online might have some suggestions?
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I'll take a look! Thanks anyway :D
I was wondering what brush you were using for the over brush step (currently painting some rhinos)
6yearsfora bottle of anything is great....my bird seems to seek out things to spill
nice
10:48 I couldnt really understand what you used for those glossy patches- What was it you used?
Lahmian Medium. It's only glossy while it's wet.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you so much!!! ^-^
What brush are you using let me know thanks
what tank is that because i saw a lot of sherman model kits and this looks awesome
pls answer:)?
This is the standard plastic M4 Sherman from Warlord Games. The only thing to watch for is the tracks can be a little confusing when first assembling the kit, but it's otherwise very simple and looks good on the table.
store.warlordgames.com/products/plastic-m4-sherman-medium-tank
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio you are the best miniature painter :)
No it isn't! the RUclipsr got it wrong! It's a M4A4E8 Sherman!
@@bluefireyoutubezxprofireba7755 thats not even a tank variant that exists. The M4A4 only ever had VVSS suspension during ww2
What colours would you use for a German ambush camouflage. I have my tank sprayed in Tamiya dark yellow and have the Tamiya colours required (nato green and nato brown) but I heard Tamiya paints are not good for brush painting. Thanks for the video
They aren’t good for brushing because they dry super fast since they have an alcohol base instead of water base. If you get a bottle of their drying retarder and add a drop or two to your paint you’ll have more time to work with it
Sorry what was the base primer colour again and where do you get it from? Thanks.
stunning paint job. For a beginner with 1/56 AFV's and 28 mm figures in mind, Which brush range would you advise ?
There's a couple I quite like. The Citadel Large or Extra Large Base Brushes are really good for large, flat areas of paint, but otherwise the Army Painter range of brushes work quite well for the same. I love the wedge tip on their drybrushes - great for getting into tracks under running gear and the like!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thanks, I'll have a look tomorrow at tha wargame shop. Cheers, Joseph
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thanks. Are you familliar with vallejo spray can ? Can it be used as a primer ? Cheers, Joseph
What’s the scale for this
This is 1/56.
Hi, How much water do you add to the paint? Thank you
What kind of paint did you use?
Hello, I used Citadel Agrax Earthshade exactly as shown on the video but it has given the model a dirty effect, hardly affecting the places that need shading. Please help, what is a solution?
Unfortunately you can't just take it off - a couple of thin coats of your base colour again will be necessary to restart the process. If you're getting grubby, streaky issues, make sure you're shaking the shade well before use. Sometimes it can settle and you'll get weird effects of it, and make sure you're applying it over a thoroughly dry basecoat. Once you've got the surface green, leave it to dry for half an hour first, and see if you get a better result.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thank you so much for the fast reply! I will try it! :)
@@suaveslav6047 did it work
@@TheSulfuric1 Yeah, all I did was properly shake the bottle and apply more of it to the areas that require shading. Also a tip, when applying the main colour of the tank, paint over it with clear paint. After that, if you put thinner on a cotton bud, you can wipe away wash that you do not need on the model without washing off the main colour paint. Hope this helped! :)
They shouldn't slide off the backing paper when in water if high quality can't say that's happened to me for years think it was crappy airfix decals that used to do that alot! Nothing these days micro sols better the red one on it's own what kind of Sherman kit is this? Tracks on Sherman's are live tracks shouldn't sag
What scale is this model?
Warlord Games' vehicles are 1/56 scale, or a rough 28mm equivalent.
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Ok. Thanks.
I can tell you are WH 40K
If someone is not willing to mix paints, that someone should probably take up a different hobby!!
i love your channel you do olive drab tanks as well i love working with mixes from citadel paint for that for bases on my 40k models you the man haha