This video is summing up everything I experienced by myself and why I by myself was elimiminating selflevel from my Radio. A bit more than two years ago you gave me the advise to get away from self level as soon as possible. I was listening to you and it tirned out the best advise I ever got. Thank you again!
Brilliant video You explained a heck of a lot there. Yes I was confused about 6G and had to write to a forum and ask what it was! All these terms to describe self levelling mode need to be standardised. By manufacturers wanting to " Wow" us all, all they are doing is confusing the crap out of people . I think its a teenage cool thing ... Hey man you are nobody unless you got 6G!!!! Anyway...thanks John. Brilliantly explained. Peter
Yes John 👍🏻 Learn normal mode every time! Then if you feel a bit lazy but need a quick fix, you can self level but NOT the other way round! Many years ago, I knew nothing other than 3 channel helis. Big mistake! When I discovered 4 channels (let alone cp) it took me a year to UNLEARN and I will NEVER take control of a 3 channel heli ever again! 😂
Excellent explanation and I now agree that I should have minimized my use of self level because it did set me back and frankly I crashed just the same, since it doesn’t stop you from hitting objects and in my experience when learning, whatever can be hit will be 😉 I do think it’s useful though when people get in trouble and feel like they’re tipping over. Can save you money aggravation and crashes. Finally, however, you do get very used to not having to limit your inputs on the sticks which essentially means you have to kind of unlearn and relearn to an extent which I know is your point.
Little addition on self leveling mode: Some systems (i.e. the one on the K110) try to level the heli inverted as well. Hence when you switch to it during inverted flying (e.g. as a rescue switch/mode) it will not turn around. You can try this by turning manually in self level mode: The moment the heli is over 90° the swash plate completely tilts to the other direction.
Didn't knew that. Thanks. I'm still far from flying inverted, but k110 is so much fun. I'm learning orientation skills in my room, and also land it on toilet paper roll.
Sorry, you made that very confusing... so when inverted, will it flip the heli back over to normal flight, as if the swash plate completely tilts to the other direction that would infer it does turn it back to normal, just you said it will not...? Ta
I had tried to learn with blade Heli,s but had no luck so tried Eachine Heli,s and found them much more fun and easier to fly as they are stable and progression is easier great videos by the way I have recently bought a OMP 2 .
I started with no gyro. Now that was a hand full. Then went to a gyro . Now back into it after 13 years of no flying . Was giving a goblin 380.I put in a Ikon 2 FBL system . Flys really nice . But now getting my Hirobo shuttle back in the air . Old school gyro system .
glad to see your review at long last. User have found this heli to be very robust with the CF frame and a very precise 3der and excellent flight times. My favourite micro.
@@Rchelicopterfun Just ordered a couple of your e-books. Trying to learn how to setup RC helis for a newbie by watching RUclips videos has been a little discouraging. I'm sure your expertise will help me progress in this hobby.
Hello John, Brian from Ohio here. Was just curious as to the type of transmitter you are using in this video? Looks like lots of extras and quite nice. Thanks for the kind advice. I will be checking out your course.
Hi John, thanks for sharing, I need your help, to trim my brand new M1, after binding and hover, the heli tend to go lest and back word, I need to keep pulling it to ring and front, what can I do to balance it, thank you.
John, before I throw myself off a cliff, where do people get these 5 pt. pitch curve VALUES from? I see people pulling 31 42 50 60 63 out of the air. 😂 don’t we need a pitch gauge anymore? I’m losing my mind over this with my Eachine E160!!
Yes, we most certainly still use a pitch gauge (or wedge gauge on small helicopters). That is after all the only way to properly set your collective range. People who are pulling numbers out of the air, or even worse, just sharing model files, as you say don't have the slightest clue what they are doing and not getting the collective range they want - if they even know what collective range they want. I cover pitch curves in depth, how to set them, and what to set them to based on flying style in my setup & tips ebook if you have the eBook. The broad brush stroke is pitch curve numbers are what you set to achieve the correct radio output for your collective channel throughout your collective stick travel, to produce your desired collective range based on flying style and helicopter. The specific numbers will vary, even on the exact same model that is producing the exact same collective range due to mechanical variation on every heli and why a pitch gauge must still be used to confirm your collective pitch angles; never mind the fact few collective pitch helicopters have a text book swash setup out of the box with perfectly symmetrical and centered collective ranges on either side of zero degrees.
Graet video sir!! I' ve noticed you start wth a M1 and change to maybe M2 I was wondering: was that because M1 hasn't a stabilization board or what? thanks.
I used the M1 because it was smaller and easier to hold in frame while showing orientation & movement. The M1 uses the same flybarless/stabilization system as the M2 - it's just built on a smaller architecture.
Please-best heli-teacher in the world( Yes!), The described check Swatchplate behaviour method (from 10:30 to 11:55) ist not possible on my eachine E160 or eachine E120S, both simply don't show any movement regardles of the 3D/6G switch setting (TX16S). PLEASE explain, why it is so!
Because the stabilization system is inactive (for setup reasons). On such systems, you generally "activate" them by giving a throttle command. After the flight controller sees that short duration throttle command, then the gyros turn on.
Thank You, that is what I expected from you: a quick and WORKING answer; I found previously something like this out, but found it dangerous to have the motor running, Now I learned from you that just that short "throttle on" is sufficient! Great! Very much thank you from Germany...
hiya john...my issue is...see ive ben tail in hovering for quite some time now..and i think i can say that i pretty much got it down pretty good .. but my issue is...im just to scared to flip into idle up and try to do nose in and circuts n stuff..im fine tail in..but when i get into any other orintation...my heart starts pounding and i get so nervous..my hands n knees start shaking uncontrollably lol...with my little 130x..i can nose in and all that..but with my 450 it scares the shit outta me cuz i dont wanna crash it lol
@MrNater1978. You don't need to be in idle up to fly nose in or even circuits for that matter. In fact, when I teach students nose-in (day 10 of my flight school - www.rchelicopterfun.com/nose-in-hover.html ), we go right back to ultra tame learning to hover settings along with re-fitting the training gear because when learning nose in orientation, in many respects, the student is starting right back at square one. Idle up is only really required for inverted flight, but of course the goal is to fly at a constant head speed even when flying normal or scale. You can still achieve that however with fairly flat line throttle curves from point 2 on your curve onward. As for side on orientation to work up to normal circuits, practice the long skinning figure 8 lesson plan: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-training-nose-direction.html Then the circle circuit: www.rchelicopterfun.com/flying-the-rc-helicopter.html Then finally proper circuit flying: www.rchelicopterfun.com/flying-rc-helicopters.html That is all done and perfected by the student before they start on nose in exercises.
@@Rchelicopterfun yes...i kno that idle up is not required..but as you mentioned ..i set my throcurves to where my head speed was consistant..at 0-50-80-90-100 pitch at 40-45-50-75-100...i guess what i was tryin ta say was is that..i know i can fly sport..execute all the orinitations..cuz i do so with my smaller heli..but when i fly my bigger bird..the fear of crashing overwhelmes me so much...what with the hobby being so dam expensive parts for mine are starting to get harder to find..and the sites that do have them price them outrageously.. i feel thats what is holding me back from progressing.. although a good sim would help in building confidence in sure
Hi Jhon! I recently bought a large scale Md500e 600 size rc helicopter, but I am new to the hobby and I would like to know if the self level mode is programmed from the transmitter to the gyro or vice-versa, I hope you can help me. your videos are very helpful! you have a new subscriber.
Not sure if I fully understand your programming question. If you are asking how most FBL (flybarless flight control) systems are programmed; it's usually through a PC desk or laptop using the programming software for the specific FBL system (also known as the setup wizard). A few FBL systems can however be programmed through the radio system if both the FBL system and radio system are so equipped (Mikado's V-Bar and V-Control Radio system for example). This topic along with other FBL system questions are covered in detail on my flybarless system and best FBL system pages on my website: 1. Understand RC Helicopter FBL systems: www.rchelicopterfun.com/flybarless.html 2. Best FBL System: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-flybarless-system.html I also cover the setup details involved it in my swashplate & FBL setup ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/swashplate-setup.html If your question is not programming related and you are simply asking how to toggle from normal gyro mode to self level mode, again, that is FBL system dependent. On most of these small micro heli's it switched by way of channel 5 output as I explained in the video. On larger more complicated FBL systems that support self-level or rescue, it can be through channel 5, channel 7, or even another higher channel if the FBL system has programable channel mapping.
On micros, I usually create a special setup pitch curve in my throttle hold mode so I can set everything up correctly without having to unplug the motors.
I have a a couple omp m2. I tried to fly wiht my dx 8ga. crashed. Fixed the heli bought a omp radio it flys great. tried to do fly again with dx8 ga same results. It tips over and can't take off. works and flys great with omp radio. Then I see the gyro setting on the dx. I have no clue as to settings. You can buy a remote receiver from omp or others. I find no info about how to setup the radio to fly. Trial and error is costing time and money to fix a broke heli. Waiting for parts and repair time.
If you fly with Spektrum, then you need to use a DSM2 or DSMX micro/satellite receiver plugged into the DSM port on the M2. One of the most popular ones currently for the OMP's and other small micro helis with DSM ports is the Kensun: www.buddyrc.com/products/kensun-dsm2-dsmx-compatible-satellite-receiver-with-binding-button?ref=-ptdbz6d-llb It's nice because it has a built in bind button so you don't have to use a full function Spektrum RX to get it into bind mode. It's also really good value at only $23 USD. As for setting up the radio & heli for a tame learning to fly setup and then progressing as you build your skills, I cover all the steps and much more in my setup & tips for collective pitch RC helicopters ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
I am a total beginner, I just bought tx16s and accurc, and training on it. I know the rule seems to be bigger heli is more stable. idk whether to go with M1 or M2 Explore. if M2 is noticeably more stable/ "easy" i will do it, but if it's not that different, I want to do M1 bc of cheaper heli/consumable parts. thoughts?
Consider the size of your flying area and how windy it is. It isn't so much that a small heli is not as stable as a larger one; in zero wind, the M1 & M2 are very similar in stability. But when anything much over a slight breeze picks up, that is where rotor size, rotor mass, and heli mass start having big impacts in helicopter stability. In short, if you have a small area to fly in and it's always clam, the M1 is fine. If you have lots of room however and want to fly in light to moderate wind, you'll really appreciate the size increase on the M2.
These two questions are covered in the video. OMP has an auto-level stabilization mode just like SAFE and can be used as a rescue function if you wish (exactly like I said in the video at 15:10). Selection of stabilization mode with OMP is through channel 7 if using the built in OMP RX or channel 5 if using an external RX protocol. Confirmation of auto-level stabilization selection is visually indicated with a solid red LED, again as explained and demoed in the video.
how do you change from self level mode to gyro mode.. how do you setup gyro model. L learned gyro and these new heli.s have self level which I don't like. They don't look real
Hello John. I'm from Thailand. I'm studying about OMP M2 to make decision about buying it. However, I used to play only "Flybar" system which we have to set up Dual Rate/Expo for aileron, elevator, rudder, etc in transmitter (I used Futaba). I understand that "Flybarless" system can setup all value such as Dual Rate/Expo in "Flight Controller". And OMP is also setup like that. However, I confused that, when we complete setup all value in flight controller. Can we have additional setup for Dual Rate/Expo in our transmitter?. Or they must been set in flight controller only? And all of flybarless system must setup in flight controller only or not? Thank you so much for knowledge : )
I always set dual & expo up in the transmitter over the FBL system, exactly like I did on all my flybared helicopters. Absolutely nothing preventing you from doing that with any FBL system. As you know, it's much easier to make adjustments that way and of course be able to change the cyclic/tail rotor authority and responsiveness to several different levels "on the fly" during the flight at the flick of a toggle switch. You lose that ability and convenience if you only use the FBL system settings. There is really nothing different between mechanical stabilization (flybar) vs electronic stabilization, they both do essentially the same thing (stabilize the rotor disc and prevent annoying dissymmetry of lift behaviors), so you can set up a FBL heli within your radio the same way as a flybared one if you want that same freedom of customization & on the fly adjustment capability.
@@Rchelicopterfun Excuse me, I forget another point. For setting Gyro Gain in transmitter, Value of Normal Mode/AVCS mode have effect to OMP M1/M2 or not? Because some video tell me that choose at Normal Mode (in any value), Gyro will operate as normal mode for OMP. But if we choose AVCS mode (in any value), it will operate as stabilization mode for OMP. Therfore, I don't sure for the value of gyro gain, we have to set at "Flight Controller" only or not? Thank You :)
The OMP like all small modern day collective pitch helicopters only has heading hold (AVCS) tail gyro operation. There is no rate mode selection (either remotely through a channel or a switch on the system). The only thing that channel 5 (or 7 when using OMP protocol) sets is if self/auto level stabilization is on or off. It's a simple switched output only; their is no gain setting at all (tail & cyclic gain is set in the FBL system and is a fixed setting).
It's not a TX16s specific sound pack. It's for any radio running the OpenTX operating system. It was likely originally for the FrSky Taranis which started the OpenTX revolution more or less. Anyway, I got mine from a link on OpenTX University's website. I'm sure there are other sources for that sound pack as well - just search for "Amber Sound Pack". Yep, she has some pretty funny sayings. 😄
@@Rchelicopterfun Hello Thanks for helping me out but unfortunately I can't find the sound pack that you have in your radio. Can you please send me some how? Coz I like the sound that is playing on the turn on and off.
@Henry Hartsfield - The entire process & setup steps to tame a CP heli for learning on is covered in my setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Hello, very new here, got xk k100 with x6 rc and until now was only on simulator with RATE MODE gyro, now it seems k100 is only on head lock mode, no matter what settings I choose. Searching for long and this is the closest video, but here is only for self leveling, what are the difference from head lock mode, and how to set them, because there is only one stick and percentage? Thank you
Rate and Heading Lock gryo modes only apply to the tail gyro, not the head gyros. Heading lock or heading-hold is the only type of tail gyro on all micro heli tail rotors these days. Very few people fly a tail in rate mode anymore other than some scale pilots where rate mode can at times look more realistic, especially on larger machines. Rate mode is also a lot more involved to setup correctly over heading-lock which automatically adjusts the torque natural point/s and the revolution mixing for tail rotor acceleration and deceleration. I cover the primary differences in feel and behavior between rate and heading-hold on my RC Heli Gyro page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-gyro.html
6g might come from the fact that those imu's use basicly 6 accelerometers to calculate the "gyros" Nerver heard that term before and makes no sense from a marketing standpoint. But hey maby some marketing guy thought so. 🤷♂️
There are 3 gyro sensors for pitch, roll & yaw and 3 accelerometer sensors for pitch, roll & yaw. It's s a 6 sensor IMU. There are also 9 sensor IMU's in GPS systems with 3 additional magnetometer sensors along the pitch, roll & yaw axis. Yep, no such thing as a 6 gyro IMU other than in the minds of marketers.
I guess after 40 years of helicopters I can never join a club. I am guilty of never really learning nose in hovering. I’m the adult who never learned to read(at least that’s how I feel after watching this video). I learned on a 60 sized GMP competitor. In the positive side of the world I never crash. I consider myself a sport pilot. I do have a Black Nitro with a Spartan gyro that has improved my-flying so much because it has stability built in much more than Beast X. Oh well.
Why? What did I say in this video that would make you think that? After 40 years collective pitch flying experience and if you consider yourself a sport flyer, I would think you can hold a tail-in hover with your eyes closed. As I stated in the video, holding a basic tail-in hover (no other orientation) is all the MAAC 5 level heli certification program requires before signing a student or new member off with their basic level A&B certification so they can safely fly alone without assistance. Basic certification has absolutely nothing to do with nose-in, so not even sure why you mentioned nose-in? Holding a nose-in hover is only required for level E (advanced) certification; a level that I don't think even half of our current membership has attained. Hell, I became an intermediate level instructor before I could hold a nose-in hover as nose-in proficiency is not even a requirement for that.
If ending a relationship is the end goal of your hobby, there are certainly much better ones to consider that take up orders of magnitude more time and money. 😀 Hobbies such as any form of motor racing, full scale aviation, windsurfing & kiteboarding, paragliding, skiing, mountain climbing, big mountain snowmobiling & mountain biking, golf, clubbing, gambling, drinking & drugs, having a mistress on the side etc. are just a few and that barely scratches the surface. RC helicopters can't hold candle to any of them in terms of cost and time away from home while ignoring your better half in the process. 🚑
A computerized radio has nothing to do with how easy or hard a collective pitch RC helicopter is to fly, it just makes setup easier by allowing you to program the various channel outputs, the same way we used to do it mechanically on the helicopter. For instance, taming down a bird in the old days for learning on required reducing servo output throws with servo arm/linkage geometry adjustments, a fairly time consuming process. With a computerized radio, that can all be changed quickly within the programming and also allows you to change the setup on the fly without any mechanical adjustment whatsoever. Not to mention have multiple aircraft saved into one transmitter. It's also a myth that the pitch & roll cyclic gyros in a flybarless systems make cyclic control/stability vastly easier than what a well setup flybared machine could produce. The feel is different no question, but I certainly wouldn't say a flybarless system is either easier or harder than traditional flybar, at least on larger machines. Not sure what year you were flying in, but I think we all used tail gyro from the early 80's on. I honestly don't know how anyone could fly a heli without a tail gyro?
This video is summing up everything I experienced by myself and why I by myself was elimiminating selflevel from my Radio. A bit more than two years ago you gave me the advise to get away from self level as soon as possible. I was listening to you and it tirned out the best advise I ever got. Thank you again!
John salt. You are the guru of all things heli. Thank you for sharing so much 👍👍
🙂
I really needed this. Thanks for clearing p those questions for everyone.
Glad it was helpful 🙂
Brilliant video
You explained a heck of a lot there.
Yes I was confused about 6G and had to write to a forum and ask what it was!
All these terms to describe self levelling mode need to be standardised.
By manufacturers wanting to " Wow" us all, all they are doing is confusing the crap out of people .
I think its a teenage cool thing ...
Hey man you are nobody unless you got 6G!!!!
Anyway...thanks John.
Brilliantly explained.
Peter
Thanks a lot! You answer all my questions about the "self level mode" and "gyro mode" om this machine! Tks from Brazil!!!
Good to hear
I'm brand new at this hobby bro this is my first helicopter and I learned a lot from this video thank you so much!
Thanks for watching - happy flights 👍🙂
Yes John 👍🏻 Learn normal mode every time! Then if you feel a bit lazy but need a quick fix, you can self level but NOT the other way round!
Many years ago, I knew nothing other than 3 channel helis. Big mistake! When I discovered 4 channels (let alone cp) it took me a year to UNLEARN and I will NEVER take control of a 3 channel heli ever again! 😂
👍
Excellent explanation and I now agree that I should have minimized my use of self level because it did set me back and frankly I crashed just the same, since it doesn’t stop you from hitting objects and in my experience when learning, whatever can be hit will be 😉 I do think it’s useful though when people get in trouble and feel like they’re tipping over. Can save you money aggravation and crashes. Finally, however, you do get very used to not having to limit your inputs on the sticks which essentially means you have to kind of unlearn and relearn to an extent which I know is your point.
Great video as always and much appreciated. When it comes to Helis you are my go to and I have learned so much. Thank you!
thank you too for watching 🙂
Little addition on self leveling mode: Some systems (i.e. the one on the K110) try to level the heli inverted as well. Hence when you switch to it during inverted flying (e.g. as a rescue switch/mode) it will not turn around. You can try this by turning manually in self level mode: The moment the heli is over 90° the swash plate completely tilts to the other direction.
Didn't knew that. Thanks.
I'm still far from flying inverted, but k110 is so much fun. I'm learning orientation skills in my room, and also land it on toilet paper roll.
Sorry, you made that very confusing... so when inverted, will it flip the heli back over to normal flight, as if the swash plate completely tilts to the other direction that would infer it does turn it back to normal, just you said it will not...? Ta
@@malcyjb Most systems will flip the heli back. But the one of the k110 will not, it will keep the heli horizontally level in inverted orientation.
I had tried to learn with blade Heli,s but had no luck so tried Eachine Heli,s and found them much more fun and easier to fly as they are stable and progression is easier great videos by the way I have recently bought a OMP 2 .
🙂
Thank you for such detailed explanation!
Many thanks John Salt, I was very confusing with this Self Leveling Mode until foun your video. :)
I started with no gyro. Now that was a hand full. Then went to a gyro . Now back into it after 13 years of no flying . Was giving a goblin 380.I put in a Ikon 2 FBL system . Flys really nice . But now getting my Hirobo shuttle back in the air . Old school gyro system .
Love your sharing sir 🤗👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
glad to see your review at long last. User have found this heli to be very robust with the CF frame and a very precise 3der and excellent flight times. My favourite micro.
Thanks for the info!
sorry john this was supposed to be on the E150 video ?
Hi, I have just restored a Hirobo Sceadu with a new OS engine , can you recommend some settings for tame flight
Reg Adam
I have a RTF M1, can it successfully be bound to a computer controller and function properly. You cleared up a lot for me thanks.
Tim
Yes it can.
Could you share your settings for setting up a helicopter for a beginner?
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Just ordered a couple of your e-books. Trying to learn how to setup RC helis for a newbie by watching RUclips videos has been a little discouraging. I'm sure your expertise will help me progress in this hobby.
Hello John,
Brian from Ohio here.
Was just curious as to the type of transmitter you are using in this video?
Looks like lots of extras and quite nice.
Thanks for the kind advice. I will be checking out your course.
TX16S. I have several review videos on the TX16S along with OpenTX (the OS system that the TX16S uses).
I suspect 6 gyro relates to 6 degrees of freedom. The sensors measure RPY angle of rotation and acceleration
“Six-degree-of-freedom (6DoF) sensors measure translational motion along three axes and rotational motion around three axes.”
Thank you for the video!
John the video Very interesting, informative and helpful!
Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Hi John, thanks for sharing, I need your help, to trim my brand new M1, after binding and hover, the heli tend to go lest and back word, I need to keep pulling it to ring and front, what can I do to balance it, thank you.
John, before I throw myself off a cliff, where do people get these 5 pt. pitch curve VALUES from? I see people pulling 31 42 50 60 63 out of the air. 😂 don’t we need a pitch gauge anymore? I’m losing my mind over this with my Eachine E160!!
Yes, we most certainly still use a pitch gauge (or wedge gauge on small helicopters). That is after all the only way to properly set your collective range. People who are pulling numbers out of the air, or even worse, just sharing model files, as you say don't have the slightest clue what they are doing and not getting the collective range they want - if they even know what collective range they want.
I cover pitch curves in depth, how to set them, and what to set them to based on flying style in my setup & tips ebook if you have the eBook.
The broad brush stroke is pitch curve numbers are what you set to achieve the correct radio output for your collective channel throughout your collective stick travel, to produce your desired collective range based on flying style and helicopter. The specific numbers will vary, even on the exact same model that is producing the exact same collective range due to mechanical variation on every heli and why a pitch gauge must still be used to confirm your collective pitch angles; never mind the fact few collective pitch helicopters have a text book swash setup out of the box with perfectly symmetrical and centered collective ranges on either side of zero degrees.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks John. I’m going to buy your books.
Thanks interesting. Oh and nice flying.
Thanks for watching 🙂
Nice video John thanks for doing it, do you have a video on setting governor mode on the micro beast I looked but could not find it if you do?
Sorry, nope.
Graet video sir!! I' ve noticed you start wth a M1 and change to maybe M2 I was wondering: was that because M1 hasn't a stabilization board or what? thanks.
I used the M1 because it was smaller and easier to hold in frame while showing orientation & movement. The M1 uses the same flybarless/stabilization system as the M2 - it's just built on a smaller architecture.
excellent teacher!
Thanks mate 🙂
Now that I have m1,that's my learning process in the hover mode
OK I watched the video to the end. I just have to program in a mode on my mode switch and tone it down. Sorry I am slow.
I'm slower than you. Must be the terminology.
Please-best heli-teacher in the world( Yes!), The described check Swatchplate behaviour method (from 10:30 to 11:55) ist not possible on my eachine E160 or eachine E120S, both simply don't show any movement regardles of the 3D/6G switch setting (TX16S).
PLEASE explain, why it is so!
Because the stabilization system is inactive (for setup reasons). On such systems, you generally "activate" them by giving a throttle command. After the flight controller sees that short duration throttle command, then the gyros turn on.
Thank You, that is what I expected from you: a quick and WORKING answer; I found previously something like this out, but found it dangerous to have the motor running, Now I learned from you that just that short "throttle on" is sufficient! Great! Very much thank you from Germany...
great car taste! :)
Ver good explaination. Can you Review the new eachine e150 please? Looks like between M1 and M2.
He is currently reviewing it but its taking more time since the esc blew out
Condensation in winter flight. From in and. Out home best precaution. Should be taken to keep electric tonic for burning out engine flit controler .
Super erklärt. Vielen lieben dank. 😋😊
hiya john...my issue is...see ive ben tail in hovering for quite some time now..and i think i can say that i pretty much got it down pretty good .. but my issue is...im just to scared to flip into idle up and try to do nose in and circuts n stuff..im fine tail in..but when i get into any other orintation...my heart starts pounding and i get so nervous..my hands n knees start shaking uncontrollably lol...with my little 130x..i can nose in and all that..but with my 450 it scares the shit outta me cuz i dont wanna crash it lol
@MrNater1978. You don't need to be in idle up to fly nose in or even circuits for that matter. In fact, when I teach students nose-in (day 10 of my flight school - www.rchelicopterfun.com/nose-in-hover.html ), we go right back to ultra tame learning to hover settings along with re-fitting the training gear because when learning nose in orientation, in many respects, the student is starting right back at square one. Idle up is only really required for inverted flight, but of course the goal is to fly at a constant head speed even when flying normal or scale. You can still achieve that however with fairly flat line throttle curves from point 2 on your curve onward.
As for side on orientation to work up to normal circuits, practice the long skinning figure 8 lesson plan: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-training-nose-direction.html
Then the circle circuit: www.rchelicopterfun.com/flying-the-rc-helicopter.html
Then finally proper circuit flying: www.rchelicopterfun.com/flying-rc-helicopters.html
That is all done and perfected by the student before they start on nose in exercises.
@@Rchelicopterfun yes...i kno that idle up is not required..but as you mentioned ..i set my throcurves to where my head speed was consistant..at 0-50-80-90-100 pitch at 40-45-50-75-100...i guess what i was tryin ta say was is that..i know i can fly sport..execute all the orinitations..cuz i do so with my smaller heli..but when i fly my bigger bird..the fear of crashing overwhelmes me so much...what with the hobby being so dam expensive parts for mine are starting to get harder to find..and the sites that do have them price them outrageously.. i feel thats what is holding me back from progressing.. although a good sim would help in building confidence in sure
Where can I get those training wheels for my s2? Could save me a lot of issues, as I am new to this hobby.
Thank tou very much.
You build and size them to your specific helicopter yourself: www.rchelicopterfun.com/helicopter-training-gear.html
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you very much.
@Frederick Grassie - Most welcome. Happy Flights 👍🙂
Hi Jhon! I recently bought a large scale Md500e 600 size rc helicopter, but I am new to the hobby and I would like to know if the self level mode is programmed from the transmitter to the gyro or vice-versa, I hope you can help me. your videos are very helpful! you have a new subscriber.
Not sure if I fully understand your programming question. If you are asking how most FBL (flybarless flight control) systems are programmed; it's usually through a PC desk or laptop using the programming software for the specific FBL system (also known as the setup wizard). A few FBL systems can however be programmed through the radio system if both the FBL system and radio system are so equipped (Mikado's V-Bar and V-Control Radio system for example). This topic along with other FBL system questions are covered in detail on my flybarless system and best FBL system pages on my
website:
1. Understand RC Helicopter FBL systems: www.rchelicopterfun.com/flybarless.html
2. Best FBL System: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-flybarless-system.html
I also cover the setup details involved it in my swashplate & FBL setup ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/swashplate-setup.html
If your question is not programming related and you are simply asking how to toggle from normal gyro mode to self level mode, again, that is FBL system dependent. On most of these small micro heli's it switched by way of channel 5 output as I explained in the video. On larger more complicated FBL systems that support self-level or rescue, it can be through channel 5, channel 7, or even another higher channel if the FBL system has programable channel mapping.
@@Rchelicopterfun THANKS A LOT JHON!!!
In which flight mode do you level swashplate find 0 pitch at half stick center servos ect omp m-1 m-2 thanks
On micros, I usually create a special setup pitch curve in my throttle hold mode so I can set everything up correctly without having to unplug the motors.
I have a a couple omp m2. I tried to fly wiht my dx 8ga. crashed. Fixed the heli bought a omp radio it flys great. tried to do fly again with dx8 ga same results. It tips over and can't take off. works and flys great with omp radio. Then I see the gyro setting on the dx. I have no clue as to settings. You can buy a remote receiver from omp or others. I find no info about how to setup the radio to fly. Trial and error is costing time and money to fix a broke heli. Waiting for parts and repair time.
If you fly with Spektrum, then you need to use a DSM2 or DSMX micro/satellite receiver plugged into the DSM port on the M2. One of the most popular ones currently for the OMP's and other small micro helis with DSM ports is the Kensun: www.buddyrc.com/products/kensun-dsm2-dsmx-compatible-satellite-receiver-with-binding-button?ref=-ptdbz6d-llb
It's nice because it has a built in bind button so you don't have to use a full function Spektrum RX to get it into bind mode. It's also really good value at only $23 USD.
As for setting up the radio & heli for a tame learning to fly setup and then progressing as you build your skills, I cover all the steps and much more in my setup & tips for collective pitch RC helicopters ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Thank you for the info!
thanks for the view 🙂
I am a total beginner, I just bought tx16s and accurc, and training on it. I know the rule seems to be bigger heli is more stable. idk whether to go with M1 or M2 Explore. if M2 is noticeably more stable/ "easy" i will do it, but if it's not that different, I want to do M1 bc of cheaper heli/consumable parts. thoughts?
Consider the size of your flying area and how windy it is. It isn't so much that a small heli is not as stable as a larger one; in zero wind, the M1 & M2 are very similar in stability. But when anything much over a slight breeze picks up, that is where rotor size, rotor mass, and heli mass start having big impacts in helicopter stability. In short, if you have a small area to fly in and it's always clam, the M1 is fine. If you have lots of room however and want to fly in light to moderate wind, you'll really appreciate the size increase on the M2.
Love your choice words…. Spot on💩🪭
Thank you kindly
OMP helis have same panic mode like Blade helis ? If yes, how it works ?
These two questions are covered in the video.
OMP has an auto-level stabilization mode just like SAFE and can be used as a rescue function if you wish (exactly like I said in the video at 15:10).
Selection of stabilization mode with OMP is through channel 7 if using the built in OMP RX or channel 5 if using an external RX protocol. Confirmation of auto-level stabilization selection is visually indicated with a solid red LED, again as explained and demoed in the video.
how do you change from self level mode to gyro mode.. how do you setup gyro model. L learned gyro and these new heli.s have self level which I don't like. They don't look real
Thanks jhon
Welcome 🙂
Hello John. I'm from Thailand.
I'm studying about OMP M2 to make decision about buying it.
However, I used to play only "Flybar" system which we have to set up Dual Rate/Expo for aileron, elevator, rudder, etc in transmitter (I used Futaba). I understand that "Flybarless" system can setup all value such as Dual Rate/Expo in "Flight Controller". And OMP is also setup like that.
However, I confused that, when we complete setup all value in flight controller. Can we have additional setup for Dual Rate/Expo in our transmitter?. Or they must been set in flight controller only?
And all of flybarless system must setup in flight controller only or not?
Thank you so much for knowledge : )
I always set dual & expo up in the transmitter over the FBL system, exactly like I did on all my flybared helicopters. Absolutely nothing preventing you from doing that with any FBL system. As you know, it's much easier to make adjustments that way and of course be able to change the cyclic/tail rotor authority and responsiveness to several different levels "on the fly" during the flight at the flick of a toggle switch. You lose that ability and convenience if you only use the FBL system settings. There is really nothing different between mechanical stabilization (flybar) vs electronic stabilization, they both do essentially the same thing (stabilize the rotor disc and prevent annoying dissymmetry of lift behaviors), so you can set up a FBL heli within your radio the same way as a flybared one if you want that same freedom of customization & on the fly adjustment capability.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you for very clear answer : )
@@Rchelicopterfun Excuse me, I forget another point.
For setting Gyro Gain in transmitter, Value of Normal Mode/AVCS mode have effect to OMP M1/M2 or not?
Because some video tell me that choose at Normal Mode (in any value), Gyro will operate as normal mode for OMP. But if we choose AVCS mode (in any value), it will operate as stabilization mode for OMP.
Therfore, I don't sure for the value of gyro gain, we have to set at "Flight Controller" only or not?
Thank You :)
The OMP like all small modern day collective pitch helicopters only has heading hold (AVCS) tail gyro operation. There is no rate mode selection (either remotely through a channel or a switch on the system). The only thing that channel 5 (or 7 when using OMP protocol) sets is if self/auto level stabilization is on or off. It's a simple switched output only; their is no gain setting at all (tail & cyclic gain is set in the FBL system and is a fixed setting).
Hello there,
I had saw your video about tx16s and I am obsessed with its sound pack 😍 can you tell me where to download that please?
It's not a TX16s specific sound pack. It's for any radio running the OpenTX operating system. It was likely originally for the FrSky Taranis which started the OpenTX revolution more or less. Anyway, I got mine from a link on OpenTX University's website. I'm sure there are other sources for that sound pack as well - just search for "Amber Sound Pack". Yep, she has some pretty funny sayings. 😄
@@Rchelicopterfun Hello
Thanks for helping me out but unfortunately I can't find the sound pack that you have in your radio. Can you please send me some how? Coz I like the sound that is playing on the turn on and off.
Just got my first collective pitch helicopter an xk123 can you give me a stable beginner setup please?
@Henry Hartsfield - The entire process & setup steps to tame a CP heli for learning on is covered in my setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Hello, very new here, got xk k100 with x6 rc and until now was only on simulator with RATE MODE gyro, now it seems k100 is only on head lock mode, no matter what settings I choose. Searching for long and this is the closest video, but here is only for self leveling, what are the difference from head lock mode, and how to set them, because there is only one stick and percentage? Thank you
Rate and Heading Lock gryo modes only apply to the tail gyro, not the head gyros. Heading lock or heading-hold is the only type of tail gyro on all micro heli tail rotors these days. Very few people fly a tail in rate mode anymore other than some scale pilots where rate mode can at times look more realistic, especially on larger machines.
Rate mode is also a lot more involved to setup correctly over heading-lock which automatically adjusts the torque natural point/s and the revolution mixing for tail rotor acceleration and deceleration.
I cover the primary differences in feel and behavior between rate and heading-hold on my RC Heli Gyro page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-gyro.html
Thank you!
Does idle up mode need to be on with normal mode?
Back then when I was 16 we fly heli without any computer radio, niw that Im5 60 I don't know if I can still fly new heli
hi John. Any chance you would switch to EdgeXT ? looks like everyone on youtube as switched
Nope, I see zero reason to switch at this time. Edge doesn't offer a thing I would need at this time, plus I use what is proven and tested.
@@Rchelicopterfun agreed. I'm now wowed by a touchscreen. Not required.
hi never flown heli only rc planes and i fly mode 1 wat would be a good first heli.thx mark.
Coverd in detail on my "Best RC Helicopter" page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html
Thank you.
Welcome 🙂
Great
6g might come from the fact that those imu's use basicly 6 accelerometers to calculate the "gyros"
Nerver heard that term before and makes no sense from a marketing standpoint. But hey maby some marketing guy thought so. 🤷♂️
There are 3 gyro sensors for pitch, roll & yaw and 3 accelerometer sensors for pitch, roll & yaw. It's s a 6 sensor IMU. There are also 9 sensor IMU's in GPS systems with 3 additional magnetometer sensors along the pitch, roll & yaw axis. Yep, no such thing as a 6 gyro IMU other than in the minds of marketers.
Supercool
Have you ever flown a full size hello?
Long time ago.
Calvin and Hobbes. Yukon HO!
I guess after 40 years of helicopters I can never join a club. I am guilty of never really learning nose in hovering. I’m the adult who never learned to read(at least that’s how I feel after watching this video). I learned on a 60 sized GMP competitor. In the positive side of the world I never crash. I consider myself a sport pilot. I do have a Black Nitro with a Spartan gyro that has improved my-flying so much because it has stability built in much more than Beast X. Oh well.
Why? What did I say in this video that would make you think that? After 40 years collective pitch flying experience and if you consider yourself a sport flyer, I would think you can hold a tail-in hover with your eyes closed.
As I stated in the video, holding a basic tail-in hover (no other orientation) is all the MAAC 5 level heli certification program requires before signing a student or new member off with their basic level A&B certification so they can safely fly alone without assistance.
Basic certification has absolutely nothing to do with nose-in, so not even sure why you mentioned nose-in? Holding a nose-in hover is only required for level E (advanced) certification; a level that I don't think even half of our current membership has attained. Hell, I became an intermediate level instructor before I could hold a nose-in hover as nose-in proficiency is not even a requirement for that.
If you want to get divorced sooner or later, is choosing R/C Helis as hobby a good alternative?
If ending a relationship is the end goal of your hobby, there are certainly much better ones to consider that take up orders of magnitude more time and money. 😀
Hobbies such as any form of motor racing, full scale aviation, windsurfing & kiteboarding, paragliding, skiing, mountain climbing, big mountain snowmobiling & mountain biking, golf, clubbing, gambling, drinking & drugs, having a mistress on the side etc. are just a few and that barely scratches the surface. RC helicopters can't hold candle to any of them in terms of cost and time away from home while ignoring your better half in the process. 🚑
But now, no one can fly thier heli withkout gyro or computer radio
A computerized radio has nothing to do with how easy or hard a collective pitch RC helicopter is to fly, it just makes setup easier by allowing you to program the various channel outputs, the same way we used to do it mechanically on the helicopter. For instance, taming down a bird in the old days for learning on required reducing servo output throws with servo arm/linkage geometry adjustments, a fairly time consuming process. With a computerized radio, that can all be changed quickly within the programming and also allows you to change the setup on the fly without any mechanical adjustment whatsoever. Not to mention have multiple aircraft saved into one transmitter.
It's also a myth that the pitch & roll cyclic gyros in a flybarless systems make cyclic control/stability vastly easier than what a well setup flybared machine could produce. The feel is different no question, but I certainly wouldn't say a flybarless system is either easier or harder than traditional flybar, at least on larger machines. Not sure what year you were flying in, but I think we all used tail gyro from the early 80's on. I honestly don't know how anyone could fly a heli without a tail gyro?