Hi Jon. I’ve done the same job on mine but there was a massive amount of carbon in the exhaust so I delved deeper. These machines are very simple. If I can do it, it’ll be a breeze for you. Take the unit out and take the end off to get to the combustion chamber. The kits with the glow plugs that I got came with a gasket kit. I pulled about a cereal bowls worth of carbon out of the combustion chamber. Well worth doing. Great video mate 👍👍
It would be informative if more detail was supplied, otherwise we have to assume a p poor heater. Mode of operation, fuel used and particularly the typical pumping rate would aid others, who read this, in how they operate their heater.
@@oliver90owner there are loads of videos on RUclips on this topic. One thing I don’t agree with is having the exhaust and intake filter going through the wall so close together. These things smoke a lot on startup! My inlet is inside the shed sitting off to one side and unobstructed. Possibly, do an inspection and de coke once a year when it’s warmer would be beneficial. I was sceptical when I first bought it but, my 5.5kw unit does a pretty good job in my 6x4m shed. All in all well worth the money.
@@oliver90owner Hi Richard, good point. Go and check out Steviegtr, he has just done a back to back comparison of the cost v/s heat output to heating the same space with electric. In big handfuls it is about 1/3 the cost of electricity. I will pin your comment as reference for others. ruclips.net/video/1fnpUfAAh9A/видео.html Cheers, Jon
@@rickymale8203 I was referencing your comment re a sooted up heater. Your comment re a ‘massive amount of carbon’ was not exactly informative/indicative of anything. Mine is certainly not smoky on start up (apart from, perhaps the first time, when it was commissioned). Details like whether your fuel is diesel, whether you are running it on low heat output for long periods, whether you occasionally run it at the highest settings for a period before shutting down. Yes, there are a load of videos out there - but unfortunately most are pretty well useless. Your claim of a 5.5kW heater would mean a maximum pump rate of about 8Hz. Can you confirm this, or is it actually the usual approx 4kW output heater? Little wonder it smokes if the fan speed is the usual less than 5000rpm and the pump rate is 8Hz.🙂
@@oliver90owner I did say it was around a cereal bowl of carbon. I didn’t weigh it or measure it any other way. I don’t CLAIM it’s a 5.5kw. That’s the manufacturers description. It’s running on normal road legal diesel because red isn’t readily available near me. If I was running it on anything else I would have mentioned it. I run it on full power, at least a couple of hours then reduce it to keep the temperature to a constant. It’s normally running all day Saturday and Sunday. When I switch the unit off it automatically runs on full power. I think this is to purge the system. And, yes it smokes on every start up. The unit fan speed is how it left the factory. I hope this helps
When I heard the fuel pump, from older videos, I thought why not replace the bearings in the heater fan. I don't have one of those heaters, but I watched the whole thing, because I just enjoy listing to you. Keep them coming. Thanks
Hello Jon, I am pleased to know you're going to be warmer... being a soft southerner this latest cold snap has been a real challenge for me in the workshop... Take care. Paul,,
Wow, that's one noise but cool unit Jon. Aha yes Red off road diesel. Most farmers round me stopped using do to all the headaches of filing and approving it was for off road use. Goverment, go figure. Nice to see you back warm again and have a smile. Keep smiling , Spring will be here soon! Bear
Hi Bear, same this end, you have to fill in a form etc to buy it, and the traffic police sometimes do random tank dips to see if you are using it on the road. Cheers, Jon
Nice repair, and information on these heaters, yes, see why you started with multiple level disclaimers. Lol.🥺😯😲. Thanks for sharing Jon, you can wear your safety slippers in the workshop now 👍. Best regards from the Black Country. John.
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment. Yes, worth buying yourself one because you can guarantee that when it breaks it will be in the middle of winter. Cheers, Jon
Hi,Jon. I have had the same heater as you for about 4 years and mine has done seriously long hours of use. A full strip down once a year or 2 years is a good policy to keep everything running sweet. That heater of yours looks to be running nice and clean with good fuel air ratio settings. for checking glow plugs just connect the 2 leads onto a 12 volt supply and if it doesn't glow it is knackered. Also you should have a length of black corrugated 25mm pipe on the inlet stub under the heater with a filter/muffler unit fitted to the open end. This prevents debris being drawn in by the intake fan and also quietens the combustion roar.
Hi Howard, thanks for the comment and sorry for the delay responding. I have the inlet pipe and a sort of gauze/plastic air filter, I will fit it when I get a few mins, quieter would be better. Cheers, Jon
Jon, Glad you have heat again... The older I get the less I like the cold. I've been following these little diesel heaters with great interest, they seem super efficient and our energy costs are out of control as our yours. Might be a future project.. Enjoyed ATB....Dean
Hi Dean, thanks for the comment. I would definitely recommend one, cheap as chips to buy and run, just very noisy when filming etc. I am the same, since turning 50, I am no longer a fan of trying to be a hero and just ignoring what your body is telling you lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon. Glow plugs are just a coil of wire, and to get hot they need to dissipate power. P=V x A, and A = V/R, so assuming 12V: 12/.5=24A (although the resistance will increase as it heats up) 12V x 24A = 288W. With the 340 ohms, you would get about 0.4W! Hence no start. Electronics lesson over 😁 How much current does your little PSU deliver? I don't have one of those heaters but I enjoyed the video anyway. Thanks Jon.
Hi Olly, thanks for the comment. Not sure on the power supply, it's rated 0 to 15 amps so 180 bananas I reckon! It was a special modellers power supply for charging LiPo batteries. Seems to work on the heater although the numbers don't really add up...... I hate electrickery with a passion, I just kind of know when it smells wrong lol. Cheers, Jon
Job well done, Jon. Likely, next time (if ever needed) you might turn the heater round the other way and manage to turn the fuel tank by 90 degrees (with support), bend out the flimsy end panels to remove the tank support sheet to make the job a bit easier and quicker? Resistance usually increases with increased temperature and these glow plugs seem to draw about 8A during start up. At 12V, using Ohm’s Law (Volts = Current x Resistance), the resistance, when hot, will be around 1.5 Ohms. That 300+ ohms reading clearly indicates a virtual open circuit.
Hi Richard, thanks for the comment. Worth a try next time round, thanks. As for the numbers, I understand the words, follow the maths, get the logic, but I would not get there under my own steam lol. Pretty sure if I studied it all I could grasp it but it never excited me enough so I just get by with a minimum of knowledge and a lot of RUclips help lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, I’m totally with you on your balanced approach to safety based on intelligent assessment of risks. I have one of these heaters for my workshop and invested in a £20 CO meter and tuned my heater. On factory settings the CO was 150 ppm on high setting and I managed to tune it to around 12 to 15 ppm by reducing the max pump frequency. I’m running mine on 80/20 Kerosene Diesel mix to provide lubricity for the pump. So far it’s probably run about 40 Hrs and the exhaust port shows absolutely zero carbon traces at all.
@@jonsworkshop Hi Jon, you can do it by accessing the setup menu with the 1688 PIN code and gradually reducing the pump frequency until the you loose the last bar on the display. Then just increase by one or two steps and it’ll be about right. Doesn’t affect the heat output and should use less fuel. After around 50 hrs use I can wipe around the exhaust port and there’s no sign of soot, oily deposit or even smell.
Great job Jon Youve saved me some thinking time for when the inevitable is bound to happen. Trouble is when the inevitable does happen my grey cells will have forgot this🤣🤣🤣🤣🤔🤔👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Keep warm atb Kev
Gday Jon, for the price of the diesel heater and for what bit of realestate they take up they great value, my unit is the same as yours and it heats my workshop quite well, in the end that was a good easy fix, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
Good morning Jon. First off, I'm glad for you that your workshop is now nice and toasty. It's handy to know what the resistance is in a brand new glow plug. I have one of these heater's sitting in my Transit waiting to be installed unlike yours though, it is in modular form. I think thats' why it's still in the Transit. Thank's for sharing
Interesting video Jon. I don't know anything about these heaters, so it was quite informative. I have used glow plugs on diesel engines and they usually go for a long time. Maybe it was just a dud or maybe the wires are making a bad connection at the end of it. Anyway, good to hear it clunking away. Can't the Chinese make a quiet pump for these things ;) Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment. It's excellent value heat (comparatively), it's just a noisy bugger, if I wasn't filming it wouldn't bother me much at all, it's just not good on camera. Worth looking at getting yourself one. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, just a thought I have one of these, have it installed with the unit inside the workshop, my intention is to have the unit outside the workshop in a bespoke cabinet and pass the hot air tube into the workshop, by the way a mod you could of made is to release the pump bracket from the chassis and hang it from a cable tie, this stops noise transfer from the pump to the chassis
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment. Outside would definitely be quieter, but comes with the drawback of getting piss wet through every time you need to fuel it up lol. Plus you predominantly use in winter so I would also need to install some outside lighting to be able to see what I was doing etc, too lazy lol. Cheers, Jon
Agree,Terry. Isolating the pump does indeed reduce the tick,tick,tick noise level. If it is inside the housing it does reverberate though the plastic tank and chassis
I have the Likaci brand heater. Last night, I had an E8 error, which in their manual, is the glow plug failure. When I pulled the original plug, it was cleaner than yours(only been running for 3 weeks)......I just replaced the plug and screen and it powered up, no problems. One thing I found is that if the clicking is too loud, try moving the hose around at the bottom near the air intake. Mine was very loud after putting back together.....I could only take a few minutes of the sound. I then stuck my finger underneath(being careful to NOT get BURNED) found the fuel hose and pushed it back.......the sound went from very loud to almost non-existent. The noise is not always the internal clicking of the pump, but rather the fuel line slapping metal inside the case. The fuel line moves quite a bit while the pump pushes fuel through it.
E-10 error is driving me nuts. There no air in the fuel line, clean diesel, full and battery power is at 14v. It tries to start, but e-10 result. Any suggestions? Thanks ❤️
I bought one and was really happy with the way it worked. Used it three times and got through about 4 liters of diesel then E03 error. Spent a couple of weeks with messages to the supplier in China. They said we could send a new glow plug. It came fast by DHL today and of course is broken in two pieces as they put in a flat cardboard DHL envelope and a flimsy plastic bag around it. Now it is back to writing again to them. I anticipated something like this happening and luckily I bought a glow plug kit from another Chinese company so in a week that should come. Hopefully, that one will be in one piece. The Chinese say "The bitter sea has no shore". :(
That was great Jon well done. I thought you were going to mill a slot in the 12mm socket for the wires to fit in! Nice work on the fix. Like others here I wonder if it's worth a bit of investigation into mounting the unit outside. Maybe a fabricated bracket bolted to the outside wall. Then the warm air pipe going through the hole where the exhaust now is. And the wires through another hole. It would cut down on the noise.
Heater outside would be better, but with a pipe/duct, from inside to the warmed air inlet, would be.even better (or the heater in a sealed box on the outside taking air (to be heated from inside). Safer, too as no chance of CO being leaked from the exhaust into the room. Exhaust gases getting into the combustion air inlet is a pain and a waste - as that would be reducing the combustion air - and possibly leading to sooting in the heater (either on the heat-exchange surfaces, or in the combustion tube if the amount of exhaust gases being ingested was high).
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. Definitely would be better outside from a noise perspective, however from a use and monitoring of condition etc, I prefer it inside (I don't get piss wet through every time I have to fuel it, and I can listen, see, and smell the running condition to be predictive should faults start to develop....... I never forget where these things are made). Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Ha ha, good point with that tiny tank. I have two options - one is the standard tank (twice the size of yours) that came with the heater and the other is a sensible 25l drum which can be replenished (or just changed for another full drum of oil) at any time when it ain’t raining.🙂
Back in the 80's I repurposed a VW auxiliary gas heater to preheat a light aircraft engine. From experience those heaters were a fire waiting to happen. The fuel was injected into the combustion chamber and igenited with a glow plug. It often started with a loud pop and several times caught fire with excess fuel. I carried a fire extinguisher that i had to use a couple times. It was cheap insurance.
Most ‘fuelled’ heaters for (diesel) engines drip fuel on an incandescent wire coil which ignites the fuel in the induction manifold. They work quite well but glow plugs in the combustion chamber have become the universal(?) means of igniting the injected fuel to get the engine started in cold conditions.
Similar preheat/pre combustion systems were made under the Ki-Gas brand name. They basically ignited a diesel that was sprayed into the intake manifold for a few seconds to urge a cold diesel engine into life.
Hi Jon, well no one can say you don't get variety on your channel ! Now why don't these things go wrong when you don't actually need them ??? Called Sod's law I believe 🤣
Just to rub it in Jon, I am currently enjoying 32 C days and 26 C nights. 😉 On the down side the humidity means my tools and machinery are all gathering oxides post haste 😶
They are realy good these heaters as they have a built in diagnostic and will let you know what is wrong with them, lets be honest what other heater does that!..
sucking in the air intoo the combustion chamber from outside the shop might cause it to be less effective as the air from the outside is colder and needs more heating to reach the same temperature as the inside air in theory sucking up the air in the room and blowing it out toward the outside of the shop creates a slight vacuum in the shop so it automaticly would suck in fresh air from outside through the gaps in youre workshop , i am a little worried about the machine being so close to the floor as it can suck in metal filings and dust intoo the combustion chanber and possibly clog it up some if you could raise the machine so its a bit higher of the ground (and leave the hose on the floor) might help a lot with that , maibe weld a small platform from angle iron on the steel post you parked it behind and set it on that another thing you could do is make the exhausthole bigger so you can put the heater hose through it , place the whole machine outside the shop in a birdfeeder type construction or inside an oildrum with an open end and feed the controll unit indoors through the same hole the pipe goes though and mount it inside the shop on the wall , would dampen the sound by a lot but there would be a chance of the fuel gelling up if it gets colder
On the other hand, the cold external air is more dense and therefore more efficient in combustion. In theory perhaps, but Jon's "draughty workshop" is not likely to enable a pressure differential.
Mostly roundabouts and swings. If the combustion air is taken from inside, it must be replaced by draughts into the room. Only time an outside combustion-air intake is likely a pain is if the inlet becomes blocked. Little problem, most of the time, in the UK, but could be a nuisance in some cold regions of the world.
Hi Anthony, thanks for the comment. The camera microphone makes it sound much worse than it is in real life. I have kind of got used to it now. Cheers, Jon
Well you didn’t go at it hammer n tongs as I would have done, I test Glowplugs by sticking 12v to em. If they get hot there working. I think you let very lucky unscrewing the plug with pliers, mind you it’s not an old unit, ally and dissimilar metals can cause problems, I couldn’t tell If the thread was in the ally or in a tapped bush. Glad to see you warm again, nowt more permanent then temporary.
Hi Jon. I’ve done the same job on mine but there was a massive amount of carbon in the exhaust so I delved deeper. These machines are very simple. If I can do it, it’ll be a breeze for you. Take the unit out and take the end off to get to the combustion chamber. The kits with the glow plugs that I got came with a gasket kit. I pulled about a cereal bowls worth of carbon out of the combustion chamber. Well worth doing. Great video mate 👍👍
It would be informative if more detail was supplied, otherwise we have to assume a p poor heater. Mode of operation, fuel used and particularly the typical pumping rate would aid others, who read this, in how they operate their heater.
@@oliver90owner there are loads of videos on RUclips on this topic. One thing I don’t agree with is having the exhaust and intake filter going through the wall so close together. These things smoke a lot on startup! My inlet is inside the shed sitting off to one side and unobstructed. Possibly, do an inspection and de coke once a year when it’s warmer would be beneficial. I was sceptical when I first bought it but, my 5.5kw unit does a pretty good job in my 6x4m shed. All in all well worth the money.
@@oliver90owner Hi Richard, good point. Go and check out Steviegtr, he has just done a back to back comparison of the cost v/s heat output to heating the same space with electric. In big handfuls it is about 1/3 the cost of electricity. I will pin your comment as reference for others. ruclips.net/video/1fnpUfAAh9A/видео.html Cheers, Jon
@@rickymale8203 I was referencing your comment re a sooted up heater. Your comment re a ‘massive amount of carbon’ was not exactly informative/indicative of anything. Mine is certainly not smoky on start up (apart from, perhaps the first time, when it was commissioned). Details like whether your fuel is diesel, whether you are running it on low heat output for long periods, whether you occasionally run it at the highest settings for a period before shutting down. Yes, there are a load of videos out there - but unfortunately most are pretty well useless.
Your claim of a 5.5kW heater would mean a maximum pump rate of about 8Hz. Can you confirm this, or is it actually the usual approx 4kW output heater? Little wonder it smokes if the fan speed is the usual less than 5000rpm and the pump rate is 8Hz.🙂
@@oliver90owner I did say it was around a cereal bowl of carbon. I didn’t weigh it or measure it any other way. I don’t CLAIM it’s a 5.5kw. That’s the manufacturers description. It’s running on normal road legal diesel because red isn’t readily available near me. If I was running it on anything else I would have mentioned it. I run it on full power, at least a couple of hours then reduce it to keep the temperature to a constant. It’s normally running all day Saturday and Sunday. When I switch the unit off it automatically runs on full power. I think this is to purge the system. And, yes it smokes on every start up. The unit fan speed is how it left the factory. I hope this helps
When I heard the fuel pump, from older videos, I thought why not replace the bearings in the heater fan. I don't have one of those heaters, but I watched the whole thing, because I just enjoy listing to you. Keep them coming. Thanks
Hi Jerry, thanks for the comment and feedback, and sorry for the delay responding. Cheers, Jon
Great diagnostics and repair Jon. Your smile says it all.
Hi Jon, thanks for the comment. Lol, much better now! Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon,
I am pleased to know you're going to be warmer... being a soft southerner this latest cold snap has been a real challenge for me in the workshop...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul, no fun is it. Roll on spring. Cheers, Jon
Nice video mate, that smile when it all started working was priceless!
Beautiful sound of triumph. Well done Jon!
Seeing your temporary setup, I imediatly feld like home :)
Keep warm now, Jon.
Lol Rusti, glad I am not on my own. Cheers, Jon
Great video Jon, stay warm..
Nice one Jon! Glad you got it working again! 👍
Thanks Tony
Wow, that's one noise but cool unit Jon. Aha yes Red off road diesel. Most farmers round me stopped using do to all the headaches of filing and approving it was for off road use. Goverment, go figure. Nice to see you back warm again and have a smile. Keep smiling , Spring will be here soon! Bear
Hi Bear, same this end, you have to fill in a form etc to buy it, and the traffic police sometimes do random tank dips to see if you are using it on the road. Cheers, Jon
Nice repair, and information on these heaters, yes, see why you started with multiple level disclaimers. Lol.🥺😯😲.
Thanks for sharing Jon, you can wear your safety slippers in the workshop now 👍.
Best regards from the Black Country.
John.
Hi John, thanks for the comment and sorry for the delay responding. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Hi Jon, don't apologise.
Yep that is one loud puppy you got there Jon, had a few giggles watching this! TFS, GB :)
Glad you got it fixed Jon. Good result. Amazing how cheap & available the spares are.
Regards.
Steve.
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment. Yes, worth buying yourself one because you can guarantee that when it breaks it will be in the middle of winter. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop You took the words out of my mind. When i watched you doing it i thought that Sods law will prevail. I better order 1.
Regards.
Steve.
What's a heater ? 🤣🤣 Were back to stinking hot every day , roll on winter . 👍👍👍👍
Hi Max, thanks for the comment. Lol, not sure what is worse, I am not a fan of anything over 21C (especially when working). Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop 21 C is my kind of temp !
Morning Jon. Your happy face at the end said it all. 😀 Well done on a cracking good repair. 👏👏👍😀
Good fix Jon. Glad it worked out well.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean. Cheers, Jon
The eagle has landed. Good fix Jon, glad it was what the error sign indicated. It's no fun working in a cold workshop. Tony
Hi,Jon. I have had the same heater as you for about 4 years and mine has done seriously long hours of use. A full strip down once a year or 2 years is a good policy to keep everything running sweet. That heater of yours looks to be running nice and clean with good fuel air ratio settings. for checking glow plugs just connect the 2 leads onto a 12 volt supply and if it doesn't glow it is knackered. Also you should have a length of black corrugated 25mm pipe on the inlet stub under the heater with a filter/muffler unit fitted to the open end. This prevents debris being drawn in by the intake fan and also quietens the combustion roar.
Hi Howard, thanks for the comment and sorry for the delay responding. I have the inlet pipe and a sort of gauze/plastic air filter, I will fit it when I get a few mins, quieter would be better. Cheers, Jon
It's nice in Queensland this time of year, must remember to service my electric fan in the workshop.
Kit from Down Under
Thanks Kit, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Jon, Glad you have heat again... The older I get the less I like the cold. I've been following these little diesel heaters with great interest, they seem super efficient and our energy costs are out of control as our yours. Might be a future project.. Enjoyed
ATB....Dean
Hi Dean, thanks for the comment. I would definitely recommend one, cheap as chips to buy and run, just very noisy when filming etc. I am the same, since turning 50, I am no longer a fan of trying to be a hero and just ignoring what your body is telling you lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon. Glow plugs are just a coil of wire, and to get hot they need to dissipate power. P=V x A, and A = V/R, so assuming 12V: 12/.5=24A (although the resistance will increase as it heats up) 12V x 24A = 288W. With the 340 ohms, you would get about 0.4W! Hence no start. Electronics lesson over 😁
How much current does your little PSU deliver?
I don't have one of those heaters but I enjoyed the video anyway. Thanks Jon.
Hi Olly, thanks for the comment. Not sure on the power supply, it's rated 0 to 15 amps so 180 bananas I reckon! It was a special modellers power supply for charging LiPo batteries. Seems to work on the heater although the numbers don't really add up...... I hate electrickery with a passion, I just kind of know when it smells wrong lol. Cheers, Jon
Worthy project, Jon! 👍
Job well done, Jon. Likely, next time (if ever needed) you might turn the heater round the other way and manage to turn the fuel tank by 90 degrees (with support), bend out the flimsy end panels to remove the tank support sheet to make the job a bit easier and quicker?
Resistance usually increases with increased temperature and these glow plugs seem to draw about 8A during start up. At 12V, using Ohm’s Law (Volts = Current x Resistance), the resistance, when hot, will be around 1.5 Ohms. That 300+ ohms reading clearly indicates a virtual open circuit.
Hi Richard, thanks for the comment. Worth a try next time round, thanks. As for the numbers, I understand the words, follow the maths, get the logic, but I would not get there under my own steam lol. Pretty sure if I studied it all I could grasp it but it never excited me enough so I just get by with a minimum of knowledge and a lot of RUclips help lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, I’m totally with you on your balanced approach to safety based on intelligent assessment of risks. I have one of these heaters for my workshop and invested in a £20 CO meter and tuned my heater. On factory settings the CO was 150 ppm on high setting and I managed to tune it to around 12 to 15 ppm by reducing the max pump frequency. I’m running mine on 80/20 Kerosene Diesel mix to provide lubricity for the pump. So far it’s probably run about 40 Hrs and the exhaust port shows absolutely zero carbon traces at all.
Hi ginettamike, thanks for the comment. Interesting idea, I will monitor carbon build up over time and try this if I have issues. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Hi Jon, you can do it by accessing the setup menu with the 1688 PIN code and gradually reducing the pump frequency until the you loose the last bar on the display. Then just increase by one or two steps and it’ll be about right. Doesn’t affect the heat output and should use less fuel. After around 50 hrs use I can wipe around the exhaust port and there’s no sign of soot, oily deposit or even smell.
Great job Jon
Youve saved me some thinking time for when the inevitable is bound to happen. Trouble is when the inevitable does happen my grey cells will have forgot this🤣🤣🤣🤣🤔🤔👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Keep warm
atb
Kev
Gday Jon, for the price of the diesel heater and for what bit of realestate they take up they great value, my unit is the same as yours and it heats my workshop quite well, in the end that was a good easy fix, thanks for sharing mate, cheers
Good morning Jon. First off, I'm glad for you that your workshop is now nice and toasty. It's handy to know what the resistance is in a brand new glow plug. I have one of these heater's sitting in my Transit waiting to be installed unlike yours though, it is in modular form. I think thats' why it's still in the Transit. Thank's for sharing
Hi Ian, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Interesting video Jon. I don't know anything about these heaters, so it was quite informative. I have used glow plugs on diesel engines and they usually go for a long time. Maybe it was just a dud or maybe the wires are making a bad connection at the end of it. Anyway, good to hear it clunking away. Can't the Chinese make a quiet pump for these things ;) Cheers Rob
Nah, just cheap chinese.🙂 Unless the settings have been altered and not matching the glow plug fitted.
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment. It's excellent value heat (comparatively), it's just a noisy bugger, if I wasn't filming it wouldn't bother me much at all, it's just not good on camera. Worth looking at getting yourself one. Cheers, Jon
Hi resistance would sujest gone open circuit wouldn't heat up on low voltage 12v
Hi Jon, just a thought I have one of these, have it installed with the unit inside the workshop, my intention is to have the unit outside the workshop in a bespoke cabinet and pass the hot air tube into the workshop, by the way a mod you could of made is to release the pump bracket from the chassis and hang it from a cable tie, this stops noise transfer from the pump to the chassis
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment. Outside would definitely be quieter, but comes with the drawback of getting piss wet through every time you need to fuel it up lol. Plus you predominantly use in winter so I would also need to install some outside lighting to be able to see what I was doing etc, too lazy lol. Cheers, Jon
Agree,Terry. Isolating the pump does indeed reduce the tick,tick,tick noise level. If it is inside the housing it does reverberate though the plastic tank and chassis
Jon, As my late father use to say “if your cold put a jumper on” 😱 👍🏴
Hi Alisdair, thanks for the comment. Lol, good advice! Cheers, Jon
Do you have a part number for the glow plug
I have the Likaci brand heater. Last night, I had an E8 error, which in their manual, is the glow plug failure. When I pulled the original plug, it was cleaner than yours(only been running for 3 weeks)......I just replaced the plug and screen and it powered up, no problems. One thing I found is that if the clicking is too loud, try moving the hose around at the bottom near the air intake. Mine was very loud after putting back together.....I could only take a few minutes of the sound. I then stuck my finger underneath(being careful to NOT get BURNED) found the fuel hose and pushed it back.......the sound went from very loud to almost non-existent. The noise is not always the internal clicking of the pump, but rather the fuel line slapping metal inside the case. The fuel line moves quite a bit while the pump pushes fuel through it.
As always a job well done Jon, cold? Meh its been -4⁰ in mine 😄
E-10 error is driving me nuts. There no air in the fuel line, clean diesel, full and battery power is at 14v. It tries to start, but e-10 result. Any suggestions? Thanks ❤️
good video jon
I bought one and was really happy with the way it worked. Used it three times and got through about 4 liters of diesel then E03 error. Spent a couple of weeks with messages to the supplier in China. They said we could send a new glow plug. It came fast by DHL today and of course is broken in two pieces as they put in a flat cardboard DHL envelope and a flimsy plastic bag around it. Now it is back to writing again to them. I anticipated something like this happening and luckily I bought a glow plug kit from another Chinese company so in a week that should come. Hopefully, that one will be in one piece. The Chinese say "The bitter sea has no shore". :(
Where can i order a glw plug
Great how to, thanks it sorted me right out. 👍
That was great Jon well done. I thought you were going to mill a slot in the 12mm socket for the wires to fit in! Nice work on the fix. Like others here I wonder if it's worth a bit of investigation into mounting the unit outside. Maybe a fabricated bracket bolted to the outside wall. Then the warm air pipe going through the hole where the exhaust now is. And the wires through another hole. It would cut down on the noise.
Heater outside would be better, but with a pipe/duct, from inside to the warmed air inlet, would be.even better (or the heater in a sealed box on the outside taking air (to be heated from inside). Safer, too as no chance of CO being leaked from the exhaust into the room. Exhaust gases getting into the combustion air inlet is a pain and a waste - as that would be reducing the combustion air - and possibly leading to sooting in the heater (either on the heat-exchange surfaces, or in the combustion tube if the amount of exhaust gases being ingested was high).
@@oliver90owner Very good point.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. Definitely would be better outside from a noise perspective, however from a use and monitoring of condition etc, I prefer it inside (I don't get piss wet through every time I have to fuel it, and I can listen, see, and smell the running condition to be predictive should faults start to develop....... I never forget where these things are made). Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop All good points!
@@jonsworkshop Ha ha, good point with that tiny tank. I have two options - one is the standard tank (twice the size of yours) that came with the heater and the other is a sensible 25l drum which can be replenished (or just changed for another full drum of oil) at any time when it ain’t raining.🙂
Back in the 80's I repurposed a VW auxiliary gas heater to preheat a light aircraft engine. From experience those heaters were a fire waiting to happen. The fuel was injected into the combustion chamber and igenited with a glow plug. It often started with a loud pop and several times caught fire with excess fuel. I carried a fire extinguisher that i had to use a couple times. It was cheap insurance.
Most ‘fuelled’ heaters for (diesel) engines drip fuel on an incandescent wire coil which ignites the fuel in the induction manifold. They work quite well but glow plugs in the combustion chamber have become the universal(?) means of igniting the injected fuel to get the engine started in cold conditions.
Similar preheat/pre combustion systems were made under the Ki-Gas brand name. They basically ignited a diesel that was sprayed into the intake manifold for a few seconds to urge a cold diesel engine into life.
Next Lathe/mill project an 8mm Glow Plug Socket for Justin? Justin Case...
Did you needle nosed that down.😮
Did you hear of the socket?
You can order the kit with the socket wrench.
Thsnks Jon
Congratulations job well done. Thank you
Well done Jon. Perhaps order a spare for next time. Regards from Australia.
Hi Jon, well no one can say you don't get variety on your channel ! Now why don't these things go wrong when you don't actually need them ??? Called Sod's law I believe 🤣
So funny that was Jon thanks
Just to rub it in Jon, I am currently enjoying 32 C days and 26 C nights. 😉
On the down side the humidity means my tools and machinery are all gathering oxides post haste 😶
They are realy good these heaters as they have a built in diagnostic and will let you know what is wrong with them, lets be honest what other heater does that!..
per 'watch wes work' it's only temporary if it doesn't work.
09:00 👍
For making the brightness come back just free the cog on the top left of display
Soz not free* press the cog icon
sucking in the air intoo the combustion chamber from outside the shop might cause it to be less effective as the air from the outside is colder and needs more heating to reach the same temperature as the inside air
in theory sucking up the air in the room and blowing it out toward the outside of the shop creates a slight vacuum in the shop so it automaticly would suck in fresh air from outside through the gaps in youre workshop , i am a little worried about the machine being so close to the floor as it can suck in metal filings and dust intoo the combustion chanber and possibly clog it up some
if you could raise the machine so its a bit higher of the ground (and leave the hose on the floor) might help a lot with that , maibe weld a small platform from angle iron on the steel post you parked it behind and set it on that
another thing you could do is make the exhausthole bigger so you can put the heater hose through it , place the whole machine outside the shop in a birdfeeder type construction or inside an oildrum with an open end and feed the controll unit indoors through the same hole the pipe goes though and mount it inside the shop on the wall , would dampen the sound by a lot but there would be a chance of the fuel gelling up if it gets colder
On the other hand, the cold external air is more dense and therefore more efficient in combustion.
In theory perhaps, but Jon's "draughty workshop" is not likely to enable a pressure differential.
Mostly roundabouts and swings. If the combustion air is taken from inside, it must be replaced by draughts into the room. Only time an outside combustion-air intake is likely a pain is if the inlet becomes blocked. Little problem, most of the time, in the UK, but could be a nuisance in some cold regions of the world.
Good video Jon. Get a CO monitor in your shop. I don’t think I’d trust a cheap Chinese diesel heater with my life.
Hi Gary, thanks for the comment. Have a spare one in the house, I will bring it out into the workshop, good tip. Cheers, Jon
👍😎👍
A tapped bush? You must be joking! These are/were cheap chinese diesel air heaters, so cost is reduced as much as possibly possible.
But you didnt explain how it works which would have been a bit more mildly interesting
toasty!
Bloody noise pump webasto much quieter! Drive me nuts that noise.
Hi Anthony, thanks for the comment. The camera microphone makes it sound much worse than it is in real life. I have kind of got used to it now. Cheers, Jon
Get yourself a CO alarm.
They're not expensive.
Well you didn’t go at it hammer n tongs as I would have done, I test Glowplugs by sticking 12v to em. If they get hot there working. I think you let very lucky unscrewing the plug with pliers, mind you it’s not an old unit, ally and dissimilar metals can cause problems, I couldn’t tell If the thread was in the ally or in a tapped bush. Glad to see you warm again, nowt more permanent then temporary.
Me too,Ian. Just connect the 2 leads across 12 volts and if it doesn't make the plug glow the plug must go🤣