Excellent job love ya waffling Keep it up Mate if I was in the UK I would drop my 1999/R1 off for a refresh Love ya work you are teaching me a lot Especially the R1/ videos Still learning & listening at my age 64
Excellent work Jim! You deserve the thumbs up! I wish RUclips would force those that thumbs down to comment as to why it was a thumbs down. You don't deserve even one on your channel
I agree mate, but I guess it's a reflection on the general state of the world. Wherever you go there's always a grumpy person trying to drag you down. Thanks for taking the time to comment and for the positivity it really does mean a lot 👍
Great work and very educative videos. Only one question, why did you choose to leave used main crank and conrod bearing shells, it was close to 100000 miles on the clock which is unbelievable. I did not saw that you performed measurement of crankshaft main and conrod journals (diameter and runout) and what about cleaning of lubrication holes inside crankshaft (main bearing-conrod bearing). This is a good example of durability of Suzuki GSXR engines, many of those engines get ruined by high rpm revving when cold combined with too long oil change intervals and long wheelies.
That's the most amount of miles I have seen on GSXR Inline 4. I have seen the TLR V-twin go over 150,000 without issue though. With just parts, what was the final cost of rebuilding the engine? The series was very well done.
I need your advice Jim. I installed crash bars to my bike, which use engine mounting, and it started to vibrate. Mostly to the saddle and footpegs. I tried to align crash bars more perfectly, it didn't help, so I removed them. Without crashbars, the bike still vibrates at 3500-5000 rpm mostly. I torqued every mounting bolt according to manual, but still can't remove vibrations. Maybe toy can give some top tips how to properly install the engine, which has no rubber dampers on mounting points, so the bike become smooth again. Thanks.
Many thanks for this series of videos and love your straight talking, no nonsense approach to the videos & commentary. I definitely learnt a few things especially the tip on torque wrenches.
Re torque wrenches and the use of; it made me want to go straight out to my bikes in the garage (and the car and van) and re-do every bol't I've ever torqued-up! How did I get this far in life without know the 'exact' way to use a torque wrench? 😖
If I didnt see you remove the motor from the bike and disassemble it, I would have assumed you were taking the piss that the motor had nearly 100,000 miles. Even after watching its hard to believe. Great job on the rebuilt and could you possibly let us know what type of oil the owner was using? Was it made of from the blood of Aztec virgins??? The internals didnt have any slug whatsoever!!! :D
Many thanks for the series. Very interesting. I've learnt a lot. I don't recall whether you've told us, but I assume from your knowledge you are an engineer?
Impressive, I always encounter mishaps when I take my bike apart...a missing bolt here. I remember once I forgot to tighten those small nuts holding the valve hammer in place, when I started the bike...it was reving itself and smoking like nonsense.
Enjoyed it heaps thanx Jim ( aka Kev😂😂) have measured my brg bores in my fz750 cases and they r not round ie up to .0015” out on one of em any suggestions can these be line honed thank u
@@karlvanboxel561 just reread your original message, though it said .0015" but it's. 015" 🥺. The biggest issue you have is if you could find someone to ream or line bore it you wouldn't be able to find over size shells. .015" is a massive amount to be out. What happened to it? Did that particular bearing fail? Think I'd check the crank for run-out and then Plastigauge all the clearances. I've got hundreds of questions but RUclips comments isn't the place for a long conversation like this....
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Hey Jim appreciate your advise but point 0015” ( ie one and a half thou out of round) seems a lot when the main brg clearance spec is only around point eight thou to one point seven thou regards Karl
@@karlvanboxel561 Think you may be over thinking it a bit! I'd put the crank in with the correct shells and check clearances with Plastigauge. It'll likely be within spec.
I think it would be helpful even if only the cost of the parts bought. Many hours labour has gone into this superb build, so the total cost is going to be a bob or two, understandably.
Salute mate from California - me mum was from England and as the Brits ‘have no generosity’ I have chosen to shelve you Pay-me-Ron request - hence fourth rejected !
Excellent job love ya waffling
Keep it up
Mate if I was in the UK
I would drop my 1999/R1 off for a refresh
Love ya work you are teaching me a lot
Especially the R1/ videos
Still learning & listening at my age 64
Excellent work man, hoping to see that bike hit 200k.
Excellent series Jim. Love your no nonsense approach, you are a true craftsman. Thanks so much for taking the time to sharing. Cheers
Best Gsxr 750 series on youtube, thanks for posting it.
You are very welcome, thanks for the positivity 👍
Fantastic work. Can't imagine how happy that owner would be with the work that's gone into it.
totally loved all episodes..thank you... more please......bmw gs .boxer engine some time would be nice just saying
Well done
Excellent work Jim! You deserve the thumbs up! I wish RUclips would force those that thumbs down to comment as to why it was a thumbs down. You don't deserve even one on your channel
I agree mate, but I guess it's a reflection on the general state of the world. Wherever you go there's always a grumpy person trying to drag you down. Thanks for taking the time to comment and for the positivity it really does mean a lot 👍
Great work and very educative videos. Only one question, why did you choose to leave used main crank and conrod bearing shells, it was close to 100000 miles on the clock which is unbelievable. I did not saw that you performed measurement of crankshaft main and conrod journals (diameter and runout) and what about cleaning of lubrication holes inside crankshaft (main bearing-conrod bearing). This is a good example of durability of Suzuki GSXR engines, many of those engines get ruined by high rpm revving when cold combined with too long oil change intervals and long wheelies.
Congratulations! Mine GSXR 600 2008 will need also a bigger inspection for next season. Got 81.000 km -.-
Great series you are top shelf. just bought a Tee shirt.looking foward to more great stuff.
Thanks i really enjoyed this series helped me alot
Suzuki always deliver a good mechanical package 👍
great series Jim, looking forward to the next one.
It’s been a joy to see this go back together. I think a gixer might be my next bike.
Subscribed! Been going through your videos now, excellent content
Thanks 👍
I just saw you out gt85 on the carb inlet rubbers, glad I’m not the only one I got laughed at by a mechanic for doing it
makes sense to help slide the throttle bodies on , this 'mechanic' sounds like a tosser
That's the most amount of miles I have seen on GSXR Inline 4. I have seen the TLR V-twin go over 150,000 without issue though. With just parts, what was the final cost of rebuilding the engine? The series was very well done.
Great vids of you working on the old girl and good to hear it running great job
Amazing series, loved it
Gixxer start up almost at two full crank revolutions seems like , great series man .
Sounded so good that first start up 👌🏻👌🏻
Fantastic series jim . 👏
I need your advice Jim. I installed crash bars to my bike, which use engine mounting, and it started to vibrate. Mostly to the saddle and footpegs. I tried to align crash bars more perfectly, it didn't help, so I removed them.
Without crashbars, the bike still vibrates at 3500-5000 rpm mostly. I torqued every mounting bolt according to manual, but still can't remove vibrations.
Maybe toy can give some top tips how to properly install the engine, which has no rubber dampers on mounting points, so the bike become smooth again.
Thanks.
awesome job
Really enjoyed this build series it was very informative..... The 03 Gixer was my first sport bike n seeing this brings back some memories
Really great video!! Shout out from delft the netherlands
What coolant did you put in? Cheers
Amazing work pal
Many thanks for this series of videos and love your straight talking, no nonsense approach to the videos & commentary. I definitely learnt a few things especially the tip on torque wrenches.
Re torque wrenches and the use of; it made me want to go straight out to my bikes in the garage (and the car and van) and re-do every bol't I've ever torqued-up! How did I get this far in life without know the 'exact' way to use a torque wrench? 😖
Brilliant little series and awesome job!
First! Very nice job with this rebuild, you are the Master General (not the troll master general, that's another dude) 👍
Love your videos keep up the good work
How long you need to crank the engine before you will give a try?
Beautifoul job 👍
If I didnt see you remove the motor from the bike and disassemble it, I would have assumed you were taking the piss that the motor had nearly 100,000 miles. Even after watching its hard to believe. Great job on the rebuilt and could you possibly let us know what type of oil the owner was using? Was it made of from the blood of Aztec virgins??? The internals didnt have any slug whatsoever!!! :D
Many thanks for the series. Very interesting. I've learnt a lot.
I don't recall whether you've told us, but I assume from your knowledge you are an engineer?
Wonderful
Professional
Great video, fantastic. How much cranking did it take in the end for the oil pressure light to go out?
respect
Nice👍
Where can I find a Suzuki workshop manual?
Impressive, I always encounter mishaps when I take my bike apart...a missing bolt here. I remember once I forgot to tighten those small nuts holding the valve hammer in place, when I started the bike...it was reving itself and smoking like nonsense.
Enjoyed it heaps thanx Jim ( aka Kev😂😂) have measured my brg bores in my fz750 cases and they r not round ie up to .0015” out on one of em any suggestions can these be line honed thank u
Are you talking main bearing journals? Are you measuring with or without bearing shells? Have you got the crank case halves torqued up correctly?
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV hey Jim crank case halves torqued up in correct sequence and value no shells in thanks
@@karlvanboxel561 just reread your original message, though it said .0015" but it's. 015" 🥺. The biggest issue you have is if you could find someone to ream or line bore it you wouldn't be able to find over size shells.
.015" is a massive amount to be out. What happened to it? Did that particular bearing fail? Think I'd check the crank for run-out and then Plastigauge all the clearances. I've got hundreds of questions but RUclips comments isn't the place for a long conversation like this....
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV Hey Jim appreciate your advise but point 0015” ( ie one and a half thou out of round) seems a lot when the main brg clearance spec is only around point eight thou to one point seven thou regards Karl
@@karlvanboxel561 Think you may be over thinking it a bit! I'd put the crank in with the correct shells and check clearances with Plastigauge. It'll likely be within spec.
what year is
Hi what was the total rebuild cost if you don’t mind me asking
think the no reply means "yes i do mind you asking" lol 😁😁😁
I haven’t seen a reply yet are you answer for the guy ?
I think it would be helpful even if only the cost of the parts bought. Many hours labour has gone into this superb build, so the total cost is going to be a bob or two, understandably.
I have a problem with a hayabusa that I can't fix for the life of me
Salute mate from California - me mum was from England and as the Brits ‘have no generosity’ I have chosen to shelve you Pay-me-Ron request - hence fourth rejected !