Hi Len ...high pass is a great technique, but ...here's the advanced technique that very few people know. It works great in all circumstances and can even sharpen texture without adding noise. Here we go, buckle in because it's very complex and requires a bit of knowledge. It's not for beginners. 1 - duplicate layer and call it 'original.' 2 - duplicate layer and call it 'base.' 3 - duplicate layer and call it 'vivid light.' 4 - invert the 'vivid light' layer, set it to vivid light then make it a smart object. 5 - Create a new folder at the top of the stack and call it 'sharpen' then set blend mode to overlay. 6 - drag the 'base' layer and 'vivid light' layer into the folder. (The image will now look normal but all is set to work the magic.) 7 - apply gaussian blur to the inverted 'vivid light' layer between 2 - 3 to sharpen the image. Yes blur to sharpen. It's a smart layer so you can try different blur settings. 8 - When happy, drop everything to a single layer apart from the background layer and call it 'sharp.' 9 - Halos are minimal, but get rid of them totally by using blend if on the 'sharp' layer by dragging the highlights to the left on the bottom slider and splitting it to fade gradually. 10 - Drop the image, you're done. Sharp ...no noise and no fizzing halos. Very high quality sharpening.
Wow! I've never heard of this! Do you recommend this method over high pass? I'm very confused trying to achieve the best prints I can from my images and sharpening is a complete maze!
@@anima6035 Most of my prints are done in house. You are correct, most print houses do restrict uploads to jpg.. but there are some that support TIFF such as Whitewall.
Incredible image by the way. World class.
Thank you for the kind words. 😎
Thank you for the kind words. 😎
Hi Len ...high pass is a great technique, but ...here's the advanced technique that very few people know. It works great in all circumstances and can even sharpen texture without adding noise. Here we go, buckle in because it's very complex and requires a bit of knowledge. It's not for beginners.
1 - duplicate layer and call it 'original.'
2 - duplicate layer and call it 'base.'
3 - duplicate layer and call it 'vivid light.'
4 - invert the 'vivid light' layer, set it to vivid light then make it a smart object.
5 - Create a new folder at the top of the stack and call it 'sharpen' then set blend mode to overlay.
6 - drag the 'base' layer and 'vivid light' layer into the folder.
(The image will now look normal but all is set to work the magic.)
7 - apply gaussian blur to the inverted 'vivid light' layer between 2 - 3 to sharpen the image. Yes blur to sharpen. It's a smart layer so you can try different blur settings.
8 - When happy, drop everything to a single layer apart from the background layer and call it 'sharp.'
9 - Halos are minimal, but get rid of them totally by using blend if on the 'sharp' layer by dragging the highlights to the left on the bottom slider and splitting it to fade gradually.
10 - Drop the image, you're done. Sharp ...no noise and no fizzing halos. Very high quality sharpening.
Great tip! Thanks for the feedback!
Wow! I've never heard of this! Do you recommend this method over high pass?
I'm very confused trying to achieve the best prints I can from my images and sharpening is a complete maze!
@@anima6035 It is just targeting the midtones by using a lumousity mask. It's esstential a high pass sharpening, restricted to the midtones.
Why was 1. duplicate layer and call it original needed ... you never mentioned it again
@@dagacola8246 Just a old habit of mine.. I always make a duplicate of the background image, so I'm working non-destructively. It's not mandatory.
very interesting sharpening method an action for this would be great
yes it would be! great idea!
WOW.
Hi Len how do you save the image after the sharpening. Thanks Len
Hi Barry, it mainly depends on what I’m going to do with the image, if I’m going print directly, I’ll save as a 16 bit PSD or TIFF.
@@LeonardErickson hi Len, do you print in house? It seems most printers accept jpegs only 😥
@@anima6035 Most of my prints are done in house. You are correct, most print houses do restrict uploads to jpg.. but there are some that support TIFF such as Whitewall.
Clearly I'm new to the Photoshop game, but like what's a TK7? lol This tutorial was dope by the way.
tonykuyper.wordpress.com/2020/10/20/new-and-free-tk-lum-mask-plugin-for-adobe-photoshop-2021/