One other option you may want to mention. Run a set of hoses from the front end loader ports that provide tilt to the bucket. You can still raise and lower the bucket to keep it out of the way, and you have remotes when you need them. I do this on my NH TC40 when I want to use a transport disc or no-till drill that I rent from the Soil and Water District. Great for food plotters who don't want to spend $1,000 to add a set of rear remotes. Works like a champ.
Putting rear remotes on my tractor was expensive but the best thing I've done to it. Not having to get off the tractor to readjust an implement (i.e.box blade) angle as I move along trying to get the correct angles on varied terrain, has been an amazing time (and back) saver. A "Top and Tilt" kit was in my opinion money very well spent.
This is the reason I'm looking to adding a set of rear remotes for my very out of production 1955 TO35 Deluxe. Not expecting to run a high flow tiller off of it, but would like to be ableto use the rear three point with things like pallet forks or other impliments that you often need to adjust "on the fly" to keep level or angle a blade etc...
I continue to appreciate Mike’s videos. I learned the hard way, if you are buying a new tractor, go ahead and buy remotes if you can, whether you think you will need them or not. I bought rear remotes on mine, but not fronts. Then I bought a grapple, so now I have hoses fished from the back to the front of my tractor. Just like nobody ever wished they’d purchased less hp with their tractor, nobody ever wished they’d bought fewer remotes!
Fortunately, before I got into farming, I had some long talks with long-time farmers, bugging them with a lot of questions. A farmer from Warrensburg told me to make sure I had at least one SCV pair on the back of any tractor I bought. Turns out the JD CUT I was purchasing would allow 2 pairs, but for the price and everything, I had the dealer just put one on. Which they did for a pretty low price to push the sail. I'm glad we have your channel to get so much useful information from. But it was also good (for me) that I had a lot of farmer friends who didn't mind a newbie bugging them with gobs of questions. (I still do a lot of that anyway...)
Another great vid Mike. I tell people about your channel all the time. I purchased a backhoe with my tractor, so I not only had the extra cost of the backhoe, but the cost of the dealer installing remotes. And of courser their smallest kit was for two remotes. Almost $500 for the remotes installed above the cost of the backhoe. It cost me up front, but now I know I'm fully equipped for about any attachment. A word of advice. When attaching, or removing, an implement that hooks to the remotes, keep a close eye on your fluid level. I have found that mine changes in this process.
You do a great job of presenting the appropriate amount of information. Here's what it is, here's why, and here's why not. This is a great channel, I truly appreciate what you do.
If you have a loader one cheaper way, if you otherwise would have gone for individual parts, would be to use a few extension hoses from there you connect the loader. But it is a "dirty" trick, perferable you shouldn't have hoses going very close to you in the operator station (wear and tear and they brake and injures you) so pipe would be a cleaner install. And then you maybe can go for those electric diverter valves (6/2) permanently installed after the loader spool valve. But ultimately it fills better with a purpose built single lever for each function that you are not expected to operate in conjunction (as loaders are) so a manufacturer's kit would be the right way to do it anyway.
You are exactly right. I have a 2004 Massey Ferguson 4x4 1455V. The dealer said they could do it but they would have to order the kit piece by piece. They wanted like 4,000.00 including parts and labor. Stupid expensive! I believe they purposely market this way to make tractors disposable and to promote upgrading to new tractors. I guess this is why most tractor models change so often. I will prob sell this Massey eventually and switch to another brand / model with a dealer I trust that is more available in my area.
If you have a backhoe that came factory on your tractor then there is constant flow and when you remove the backhoe you need to make sure that the hoses are connected. Valves that hold position are detent valves.
One thing to be aware of with tractor hydraulic systems is open loop vs. closed loop. If your tractor came with the standard number of remotes such as 1 or 2 but can have 2 or 3 at the max, and you want to add that extra remote later on, be aware that some tractors I think had both systems to choose from but you can only have one or the other.
I don't have it on my tractors, but there may come a time where I would need it on there. I do have connections near the driver's seat where I can hook up hoses for the rear. One of my tractor's have a bucket on the front, but does have the placement block for the rear so I could hook up hydraulics on the rear if needed.
I had rear remotes added to my tractor when I bought it and have never used them.....but I’m glad I have them because of the added capability they offer. I know I’ll use them some day.
The most common reason a homeowner wants hydraulic power for something other than the front end loader is for a wood splitter. You can get a PTO driven hydraulic pump that attaches to the rear of the tractor or a belt driven one that attaches to the engine.
Just had a hydraulic kit installed by my dealer. I could have done it but didn’t want any issues with warranty. $1000 out the door no brainer in my book. Kubota mx4800hst Love your channel
Hi Mike... thanks for the info. I have a JD 990 tractor (2001) and I have a detachable backhoe on it. I have a set of hydraulics back there but no separate controls. The hydraulics just supply power to the hoe when I have it on. When it's not on, I have a small bypass hose that connects to keep the fluid flowing through the tractor. Can I add one of those add on kits you mentioned at the end of your video to offer another set of "controlled" hydraulics which would be connected to the original backhoe connectors when I'm not using the backhoe? Only reason I might want a set back there is to control a thumb on my backhoe arm. Thanks.
And I was hoping to run a small 3pt. hitch logsplitter on my BX25d also equipped with a hoe. I also have the 2 hydraulic outlets but am wondering if it's workable.
Great video, I’ve been researching tractors and am going to buy my first tractor this fall. I’ve been watching your videos and find you have some really great information. Keep the great video coming.
Good video, however you needed to point out the difference between the requirements for a back hoe and the mower you showed. With the back hoe, the tractor will send oil constantly and the back hoe controls will control the hydraulic rams. With the mower, you will use the controls on the tractor and oil will only flow when needed. Quite a difference so you need to know what you are powering when you purchase the kit(s)
I am 61 years old, grew up on a farm, and live in the Texas Panhandle. I have never seen a tractor, large or small, that did not have remote hydraulics on them.
I wish I had gone ahead and had a set put on my BX2380. I would like to add a hyd. top link in the future. I did go ahead and get a 3rd function valve so I can add a grapple. I hope by next spring. The hyd. top link is fantastic when using a box scraper and landscape rake!
If your tractor has a backhoe powered by 'power beyond', is that really a rear remote (I don't think it is)? If you do have a power beyond, it shouldn't be that hard to add remotes. You can buy an aftermarket spool valve(s), place it in line with the power beyond, add a return to tank line, and Bob's your uncle.
Hello Mike, I have a Ford 1720 tractor it has hydraulic lines going to the back with connector on both lines that go to the backhoe attachment control valve levers. Here's the question wouldn't I have to get a single valve controller to hook up a hydraulic top link .if so which controller would you recommend
Russ, sorry for my slow reply. I don't think that'll work, but you may prove me wrong. Most backhoes have continual flow that has to dump back in the sump when not in use. I'm not smart enough to figure a way to plumb into that and control a hydraulic top link. Good luck!
I like my 3pt hitch log splitter that uses my tractor remote hyd . Use the tractor FEL forks to move the logs , then turn around and use the splitter powered by 3 cylinders of diesel Ooomph power (not another gas engine to maintain on the farm)
Hi thank you so much for your information I have Massey Ferguson 590 old model and hydraulic pump is not working.i want to use small farm and I want to buy front loader is front loader is need hose and what else it's need .any ideas
Great videos! Question: Compact tractor owner. I currently have 4 rear remotes and a hydraulic top link. I want to buy a blade with hydraulic angle and tilt. I think I need 6 remotes?? Can I add another set of remotes or do I need to add a whole new rear remote assembly? What are my options?
First off, two plug ins = one set of remotes, so you'll need the equivalent of three sets of remotes to run the hydraulic top link/dual function blade at the same time. You'll either have to 1) unplug the hydraulic top link to use the blade 2) add an extra set of remotes, which may or may not be available, or (and this is what I would do) 3) get a hydraulic multiplier like the one in this video: ruclips.net/video/sKWr2ADJjqI/видео.html, Good luck!
Mike, i have a allis chamlers I6o tractor, that has 2 hyd outlets , never used them, is one outlet move cyl in one direction & other outlet the opposite direction ? only one control lever.
Thanks Mike for this information. Inherited my Dad's Deautz-Allis 1986. Great tractor for many thjngs but like a lot of your viewer wished I had a loader and grappler. Guess I will have to wait .....
Andrew, First off, do you have a set of remote hydraulics to power them? Those would have to come through Kubota, or you can use a diverter valve like this one to get the hydraulic flow to the cylinders: asktractormike.com/product/hydraulic-diverter-valve-for-tractor/. I'd have the dealer put the remotes on, a diverter valve is a DYI, and there are videos on my website showing me installing mine. I sold a few of the hydraulic top links and tilt cylinders back in my dealership days, but it's been so long I can't remember where we got them. They may well have come from New Holland (we were a NH dealer) and been designed for a particular model of tractor. I'd try your local Kubota dealer first and see if they have a source for them. Good luck.
@@TractorMike thanks for the reply. I have a 3rd function value for my older but don’t have read remotes. Got a quote from local Kubota dealer for $3,400 to install rear remotes with a top and tilt hydraulic links. Seems steep.
Great Video Mike, but I do have a question in case you have a video on this. Can you explain the differences between the type of hydraulic rear remotes and what application for each? Float Detent and Double Acting
What about the capacity of your hydraulic pump to handle the extra load(s) put on by adding more hydraulic fittings? This is expecially true in sub-compact and compact tractors.
It would add more stress on the hydraulic pump. I don't think I'd worry about that unless I was using something that needed a great amount of flow over an extended period of time. If you're just using it to raise and lower a brush hog or run a log splitter I think the wear would be negligible.
Mike, I’ve got dual remotes on my 99 model Ford 6610 and the unused pair constantly drip even with the shutoff levers closed. What are my option for repair? Will dust plugs work or can I rebuild them. I’m quite e handy and have rebuilt control blocks for industrial applications.
Here's what my team of experts said about fixing your problem...good luck! There are a couple of questions customer has to answer about the couplers in question 1. Does the coupler leak when a hose is plugged into the remote. If so, than there is an o ring inside the coupler the customer can replace. He can take a light and look inside the coupler where the hose plugs in and see the o ring. 2. If the coupler is leaking out the drip tube, the coupler will need to be replaced (there's no rebuilding available). The coupler just unscrews from the holder and there is an o ring and a sealing ring that will need to be replaced when the coupler is changed out. 3. If coupler is leaking from both places, replace the coupler
Hi Mike. Is there a "rule of thumb" as to what constitutes a "late model " or current model of tractor? Is it 5 years, 10 years, or more? I imagine it will probably vary for each manufacturer.
It varies, and it's pretty hard for a customer to know unless they're still offering your exact model number. Once the manufacturer changes the hydraulic system it won't be long before the availability is no longer there. I'd give a call to my local dealer and see if they're available right now, that's the only way to know for sure. Best advice is, if you think you might want the remotes, get them!
Hate to say it but I have no personal experience with hydraulic top links so I really can't say. I've sold a few of them, but never actually used them.
Very nice analysis, I own an international harvester 644 (old tractor) and there is only 1 plug, so my question is simple... witch is the use of this lonely port? :p I also apologise for my english :)
you have a hydraulic remote for a single acting cylinder. usually for raising drawbar pulled implements. it applies pressure one direction,say to raise a disk, and relieves pressure and oil returns by gravity pushing oil back from cylinder when implement is lowered.
You mean divert the joystick flow to give you rear remotes? Yes, probably not to get two sets, but if you fold the bucket all the way back (or take it off and fold back) and tap into that circuit you could disable the tilt and curl and get flow from there. That's a poor man's way to get hydraulics and exactly how I would do it if I were desperate to get remote flow on my tractor.
Tractor Mike No to that. I was speaking about allowing me to use my stick to, for example, both lower and dump at the same time. Currently, you can only lower and then dump. All actions are independent instead of integrated.
I don't know the answer to that. Is it referring to an option for remotes? The D could mean it has a detent to keep a valve open and pumping oil constantly and the S means standard or no detent. That's just a guess.
Is my L3901 HST enough tractor to handle a 7ft. mower conditioner with the remote added and also enough weight and horsepower to operate a small square baler?
Jean, personally I don't think so. You don't mention the brand of mower conditioner, but it will have a minimum recommended horsepower and you need to find it in order to know if your tractor will pull it. I'm going to guess it's probably 50-60 PTO hp because mower conditioners take a lot of horsepower. Technically you could square bale with the L3901 (depending on the baler, check the recommended hp on it as well) because 8N's did it and they were 23 PTO hp, but they had gear drive transmissions. You can do it with a hydro but the heat it builds, in my opinion, is going to shorten the life of the transmission. If you have hills, the other thing to consider is if the L3901 has enough weight/braking to stop the baler/cutter when it starts pushing you downhill. That could be scary. If you're only talking about cutting and baling 5 acres on level ground, one time a year you could probably get by using the L3901 and just not pushing it, but it scares me.
I have had a MF 1250 compact tractor with a FEL since it was new. I recently needed an implement that required rear hydraulics to power a fail mower. as shown in your presentation. It requires two spools. Also as you said the MF dealer said they could get the "kit for $2,000 and install it for almost $2,000. The tractor is not worth that sort of expense but I can't afford to buy a new tractor for just one implement. There must be a way to plumb the spool valves after the FEL valves. The FEL valve already has a grapple control valve ( single spool) after the FEL in series. I am trying to add the 2 spool valve after the grapple then back to the hydraulic manifold then to the reservoir tank.If I have to, I could plumb the 2 spool valve in parallel with the grapple valve and yet be in series with the FEL valve from a functional viewpoint but how do I plum that? Tractors are way over designed in terms of strength and longevity , especially in the early compact tractor sizes. Just look at the number of Ford 8 N tractors that are still used and very functional. Adding improvements to tractors is just like automobiles, "don't you want the new gadgets?" Dealers only make money when they sell equipment. There are fewer and fewer tractor manufacturers. Soon there may only be one.
There are add on kits for a few hundred dollars that use the existing front end loader and divert fluid to the back. Not sure why this video says you have to go to your dealer to do rear hydraulics. Just do a search for add on hydraulics kits. It's easy and takes only about 30 min. to add
Hey Mike, looking to purchase Tractor can you switch for my Mahindra 22 Emacs 22 the price of local dealer quoted was astronomical looking for a cheaper way of fixing that key switch any help will be thankful hey Mike looking for a key switch for my Mahendra model 22 2015 version the local dealer has an astronomical price of $170 something like that can you help me with this I appreciate anything you can do for me
One other option you may want to mention. Run a set of hoses from the front end loader ports that provide tilt to the bucket. You can still raise and lower the bucket to keep it out of the way, and you have remotes when you need them. I do this on my NH TC40 when I want to use a transport disc or no-till drill that I rent from the Soil and Water District. Great for food plotters who don't want to spend $1,000 to add a set of rear remotes. Works like a champ.
I was wondering if that was doable. That’s the only reason I need remotes in the back is for my plots.
Putting rear remotes on my tractor was expensive but the best thing I've done to it. Not having to get off the tractor to readjust an implement (i.e.box blade) angle as I move along trying to get the correct angles on varied terrain, has been an amazing time (and back) saver. A "Top and Tilt" kit was in my opinion money very well spent.
This is the reason I'm looking to adding a set of rear remotes for my very out of production 1955 TO35 Deluxe. Not expecting to run a high flow tiller off of it, but would like to be ableto use the rear three point with things like pallet forks or other impliments that you often need to adjust "on the fly" to keep level or angle a blade etc...
I continue to appreciate Mike’s videos. I learned the hard way, if you are buying a new tractor, go ahead and buy remotes if you can, whether you think you will need them or not. I bought rear remotes on mine, but not fronts. Then I bought a grapple, so now I have hoses fished from the back to the front of my tractor. Just like nobody ever wished they’d purchased less hp with their tractor, nobody ever wished they’d bought fewer remotes!
Fortunately, before I got into farming, I had some long talks with long-time farmers, bugging them with a lot of questions. A farmer from Warrensburg told me to make sure I had at least one SCV pair on the back of any tractor I bought. Turns out the JD CUT I was purchasing would allow 2 pairs, but for the price and everything, I had the dealer just put one on. Which they did for a pretty low price to push the sail.
I'm glad we have your channel to get so much useful information from. But it was also good (for me) that I had a lot of farmer friends who didn't mind a newbie bugging them with gobs of questions. (I still do a lot of that anyway...)
Another great vid Mike. I tell people about your channel all the time. I purchased a backhoe with my tractor, so I not only had the extra cost of the backhoe, but the cost of the dealer installing remotes. And of courser their smallest kit was for two remotes. Almost $500 for the remotes installed above the cost of the backhoe. It cost me up front, but now I know I'm fully equipped for about any attachment. A word of advice. When attaching, or removing, an implement that hooks to the remotes, keep a close eye on your fluid level. I have found that mine changes in this process.
You do a great job of presenting the appropriate amount of information. Here's what it is, here's why, and here's why not. This is a great channel, I truly appreciate what you do.
If you have a loader one cheaper way, if you otherwise would have gone for individual parts, would be to use a few extension hoses from there you connect the loader. But it is a "dirty" trick, perferable you shouldn't have hoses going very close to you in the operator station (wear and tear and they brake and injures you) so pipe would be a cleaner install. And then you maybe can go for those electric diverter valves (6/2) permanently installed after the loader spool valve. But ultimately it fills better with a purpose built single lever for each function that you are not expected to operate in conjunction (as loaders are) so a manufacturer's kit would be the right way to do it anyway.
You are exactly right. I have a 2004 Massey Ferguson 4x4 1455V. The dealer said they could do it but they would have to order the kit piece by piece. They wanted like 4,000.00 including parts and labor. Stupid expensive! I believe they purposely market this way to make tractors disposable and to promote upgrading to new tractors. I guess this is why most tractor models change so often. I will prob sell this Massey eventually and switch to another brand / model with a dealer I trust that is more available in my area.
If you have a backhoe that came factory on your tractor then there is constant flow and when you remove the backhoe you need to make sure that the hoses are connected. Valves that hold position are detent valves.
One thing to be aware of with tractor hydraulic systems is open loop vs. closed loop. If your tractor came with the standard number of remotes such as 1 or 2 but can have 2 or 3 at the max, and you want to add that extra remote later on, be aware that some tractors I think had both systems to choose from but you can only have one or the other.
I don't have it on my tractors, but there may come a time where I would need it on there. I do have connections near the driver's seat where I can hook up hoses for the rear. One of my tractor's have a bucket on the front, but does have the placement block for the rear so I could hook up hydraulics on the rear if needed.
I had rear remotes added to my tractor when I bought it and have never used them.....but I’m glad I have them because of the added capability they offer. I know I’ll use them some day.
The most common reason a homeowner wants hydraulic power for something other than the front end loader is for a wood splitter. You can get a PTO driven hydraulic pump that attaches to the rear of the tractor or a belt driven one that attaches to the engine.
Great video good info.👍
Just had a hydraulic kit installed by my dealer. I could have done it but didn’t want any issues with warranty. $1000 out the door no brainer in my book. Kubota mx4800hst Love your channel
Nice explanation and a good heads up if you're looking to buy and want remote hydraulics.
Have a Kubota b2601 w/third function to run my grapple, wonder if I could also install a hydraulic top link on the rear. Any tips much appreciated.
Hi Mike... thanks for the info. I have a JD 990 tractor (2001) and I have a detachable backhoe on it. I have a set of hydraulics back there but no separate controls. The hydraulics just supply power to the hoe when I have it on. When it's not on, I have a small bypass hose that connects to keep the fluid flowing through the tractor. Can I add one of those add on kits you mentioned at the end of your video to offer another set of "controlled" hydraulics which would be connected to the original backhoe connectors when I'm not using the backhoe? Only reason I might want a set back there is to control a thumb on my backhoe arm. Thanks.
And I was hoping to run a small 3pt. hitch logsplitter on my BX25d also equipped with a hoe. I also have the 2 hydraulic outlets but am wondering if it's workable.
Great video, I’ve been researching tractors and am going to buy my first tractor this fall. I’ve been watching your videos and find you have some really great information. Keep the great video coming.
Good video, however you needed to point out the difference between the requirements for a back hoe and the mower you showed.
With the back hoe, the tractor will send oil constantly and the back hoe controls will control the hydraulic rams. With the mower, you will use the controls on the tractor and oil will only flow when needed.
Quite a difference so you need to know what you are powering when you purchase the kit(s)
I am 61 years old, grew up on a farm, and live in the Texas Panhandle. I have never seen a tractor, large or small, that did not have remote hydraulics on them.
I wish I had gone ahead and had a set put on my BX2380. I would like to add a hyd. top link in the future. I did go ahead and get a 3rd function valve so I can add a grapple. I hope by next spring. The hyd. top link is fantastic when using a box scraper and landscape rake!
That was an excellent and clear explanation! Thanks.
If your tractor has a backhoe powered by 'power beyond', is that really a rear remote (I don't think it is)? If you do have a power beyond, it shouldn't be that hard to add remotes. You can buy an aftermarket spool valve(s), place it in line with the power beyond, add a return to tank line, and Bob's your uncle.
Hello Mike, I have a Ford 1720 tractor it has hydraulic lines going to the back with connector on both lines that go to the backhoe attachment control valve levers.
Here's the question wouldn't I have to get a single valve controller to hook up a hydraulic top link .if so which controller would you recommend
Russ, sorry for my slow reply. I don't think that'll work, but you may prove me wrong. Most backhoes have continual flow that has to dump back in the sump when not in use. I'm not smart enough to figure a way to plumb into that and control a hydraulic top link. Good luck!
I like my 3pt hitch log splitter that uses my tractor remote hyd . Use the tractor FEL forks to move the logs , then turn around and use the splitter powered by 3 cylinders of diesel Ooomph power (not another gas engine to maintain on the farm)
Hi thank you so much for your information I have Massey Ferguson 590 old model and hydraulic pump is not working.i want to use small farm and I want to buy front loader is front loader is need hose and what else it's need .any ideas
Great videos! Question: Compact tractor owner. I currently have 4 rear remotes and a hydraulic top link. I want to buy a blade with hydraulic angle and tilt. I think I need 6 remotes?? Can I add another set of remotes or do I need to add a whole new rear remote assembly? What are my options?
First off, two plug ins = one set of remotes, so you'll need the equivalent of three sets of remotes to run the hydraulic top link/dual function blade at the same time. You'll either have to 1) unplug the hydraulic top link to use the blade 2) add an extra set of remotes, which may or may not be available, or (and this is what I would do) 3) get a hydraulic multiplier like the one in this video: ruclips.net/video/sKWr2ADJjqI/видео.html, Good luck!
Mike, i have a allis chamlers I6o tractor, that has 2 hyd outlets , never used them, is one outlet move cyl in one direction & other outlet the opposite direction ? only one control lever.
Yes.
Great video. Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike for this information. Inherited my Dad's Deautz-Allis 1986. Great tractor for many thjngs but like a lot of your viewer wished I had a loader and grappler. Guess I will have to wait .....
I want to add a hydraulic top and tilt link to my Kubota L5460. Do you have any idea of price and if the kit can be ordered for a DYI project?
Andrew, First off, do you have a set of remote hydraulics to power them? Those would have to come through Kubota, or you can use a diverter valve like this one to get the hydraulic flow to the cylinders: asktractormike.com/product/hydraulic-diverter-valve-for-tractor/. I'd have the dealer put the remotes on, a diverter valve is a DYI, and there are videos on my website showing me installing mine.
I sold a few of the hydraulic top links and tilt cylinders back in my dealership days, but it's been so long I can't remember where we got them. They may well have come from New Holland (we were a NH dealer) and been designed for a particular model of tractor. I'd try your local Kubota dealer first and see if they have a source for them.
Good luck.
@@TractorMike thanks for the reply. I have a 3rd function value for my older but don’t have read remotes. Got a quote from local Kubota dealer for $3,400 to install rear remotes with a top and tilt hydraulic links. Seems steep.
Great Video Mike, but I do have a question in case you have a video on this. Can you explain the differences between the type of hydraulic rear remotes and what application for each? Float Detent and Double Acting
What about the capacity of your hydraulic pump to handle the extra load(s) put on by adding more hydraulic fittings? This is expecially true in sub-compact and compact tractors.
It would add more stress on the hydraulic pump. I don't think I'd worry about that unless I was using something that needed a great amount of flow over an extended period of time. If you're just using it to raise and lower a brush hog or run a log splitter I think the wear would be negligible.
Mike, I’ve got dual remotes on my 99 model Ford 6610 and the unused pair constantly drip even with the shutoff levers closed. What are my option for repair? Will dust plugs work or can I rebuild them. I’m quite e handy and have rebuilt control blocks for industrial applications.
Here's what my team of experts said about fixing your problem...good luck!
There are a couple of questions customer has to answer about the couplers in question
1. Does the coupler leak when a hose is plugged into the remote. If so, than there is an o ring inside the coupler the customer can replace. He can take a light and look inside the coupler where the hose plugs in and see the o ring.
2. If the coupler is leaking out the drip tube, the coupler will need to be replaced (there's no rebuilding available). The coupler just unscrews from the holder and there is an o ring and a sealing ring that will need to be replaced when the coupler is changed out.
3. If coupler is leaking from both places, replace the coupler
Hi Mike. Is there a "rule of thumb" as to what constitutes a "late model " or current model of tractor? Is it 5 years, 10 years, or more? I imagine it will probably vary for each manufacturer.
It varies, and it's pretty hard for a customer to know unless they're still offering your exact model number. Once the manufacturer changes the hydraulic system it won't be long before the availability is no longer there. I'd give a call to my local dealer and see if they're available right now, that's the only way to know for sure. Best advice is, if you think you might want the remotes, get them!
Good information as always. Thanks. Stay safe.
Do you think its worth getting rear remotes just for a hydraulic top link for box blade use?
Hate to say it but I have no personal experience with hydraulic top links so I really can't say. I've sold a few of them, but never actually used them.
Great vid👍we have small 574 International tractor with set of remotes for hay feeder and when harvest time we run grain auger.
Very nice analysis, I own an international harvester 644 (old tractor) and there is only 1 plug, so my question is simple... witch is the use of this lonely port? :p
I also apologise for my english :)
you have a hydraulic remote for a single acting cylinder. usually for raising drawbar pulled implements. it applies pressure one direction,say to raise a disk, and relieves pressure and oil returns by gravity pushing oil back from cylinder when implement is lowered.
Hey Mike is that a new canopy on your tractor, how about a side view?
Interesting discussion, Mike.
Mike, can I get some type of kit to allow the joy stick for my front end loader to work in all positions?
You mean divert the joystick flow to give you rear remotes? Yes, probably not to get two sets, but if you fold the bucket all the way back (or take it off and fold back) and tap into that circuit you could disable the tilt and curl and get flow from there. That's a poor man's way to get hydraulics and exactly how I would do it if I were desperate to get remote flow on my tractor.
Tractor Mike No to that. I was speaking about allowing me to use my stick to, for example, both lower and dump at the same time. Currently, you can only lower and then dump. All actions are independent instead of integrated.
Great information, thank you.
Hey mike we got the oggun tractor for the farm at the San Antonio food bank.
Honestly mixed feelings over it
Ok here is one for you Remotes with return line on a wd45
Hello Mike
What is difference between
2DA /2SA or 3DA /3SA,
Thanks
Kam
I don't know the answer to that. Is it referring to an option for remotes? The D could mean it has a detent to keep a valve open and pumping oil constantly and the S means standard or no detent. That's just a guess.
Is my L3901 HST enough tractor to handle a 7ft. mower conditioner with the remote added and also enough weight and horsepower to operate a small square baler?
Jean, personally I don't think so. You don't mention the brand of mower conditioner, but it will have a minimum recommended horsepower and you need to find it in order to know if your tractor will pull it. I'm going to guess it's probably 50-60 PTO hp because mower conditioners take a lot of horsepower. Technically you could square bale with the L3901 (depending on the baler, check the recommended hp on it as well) because 8N's did it and they were 23 PTO hp, but they had gear drive transmissions. You can do it with a hydro but the heat it builds, in my opinion, is going to shorten the life of the transmission. If you have hills, the other thing to consider is if the L3901 has enough weight/braking to stop the baler/cutter when it starts pushing you downhill. That could be scary. If you're only talking about cutting and baling 5 acres on level ground, one time a year you could probably get by using the L3901 and just not pushing it, but it scares me.
I have had a MF 1250 compact tractor with a FEL since it was new. I recently needed an implement that required rear hydraulics to power a fail mower. as shown in your presentation. It requires two spools. Also as you said the MF dealer said they could get the "kit for $2,000 and install it for almost $2,000. The tractor is not worth that sort of expense but I can't afford to buy a new tractor for just one implement. There must be a way to plumb the spool valves after the FEL valves. The FEL valve already has a grapple control valve ( single spool) after the FEL in series. I am trying to add the 2 spool valve after the grapple then back to the hydraulic manifold then to the reservoir tank.If I have to, I could plumb the 2 spool valve in parallel with the grapple valve and yet be in series with the FEL valve from a functional viewpoint but how do I plum that?
Tractors are way over designed in terms of strength and longevity , especially in the early compact tractor sizes. Just look at the number of Ford 8 N tractors that are still used and very functional. Adding improvements to tractors is just like automobiles, "don't you want the new gadgets?" Dealers only make money when they sell equipment. There are fewer and fewer tractor manufacturers. Soon there may only be one.
There are add on kits for a few hundred dollars that use the existing front end loader and divert fluid to the back. Not sure why this video says you have to go to your dealer to do rear hydraulics. Just do a search for add on hydraulics kits. It's easy and takes only about 30 min. to add
Hey Mike, looking to purchase Tractor can you switch for my Mahindra 22 Emacs 22 the price of local dealer quoted was astronomical looking for a cheaper way of fixing that key switch any help will be thankful hey Mike looking for a key switch for my Mahendra model 22 2015 version the local dealer has an astronomical price of $170 something like that can you help me with this I appreciate anything you can do for me
I've got a new Holland 3430. It doesn't have remote hydraulics. Yet... It's not a small tractor
I have one set of remotes on my tractor. How many do you need for a backhoe?
GOOD
Summit I have purchased 1 awesome
Piecing a remote hydraulic kit is still cheaper than a new tractor
Your wrong. My dad had 2 JD 520s. 1 had 2 single acting remotes and now the other is mine has 1 double acting remote.
Damn I just bought my first tractor a Oliver 700 looks like I’m screwed
RK tractors are standard and lower priced