Seriously the company you bought your kit from should be paying you for this video and linking it in every kit sold. Wow, very informative. Great video!
I apologize for the late reply. The payment I receive is helping others make informed decisions or aiding them in their installation process. Thank you for the kind words.
Hands down, the best install video of any DIY or even professional install. How the heck do u only have the amount of subscribers that u have? U should have hundreds of thousands or even millions.
Thanks for the compliment on the video. I do what I can in order to keep the video on topic and the content relevant. As for subscribers, luckily for us we create videos such as this in an effort to pay back all the advice and help we received. Thanks again and I hope this helped you make a decision with confidence.
There is no comparison between a drop in turbo of any kind to the T4 turbos. If you decide to go this route, you will not be let down at all. You will be "boosted" up to what you have wanted out of your truck for so long.
Best informative video I've ever seen....VERY nice job all around!!! Thank you. I do like that design and the sound of the exhaust better, doesn't have the distinctive 7.3 choppy exhaust sound anymore.
Thank you Lance. I learn from others videos and experiences and do my best to pass along the service. The engine responds very well to the SXE turbo pushing air into the plenums, it is a really smooth and free flowing system. Borg Warner did a really good job and frankly the technology from the original GTP38 (OEM turbo) has advanced so much in the past 2 decades that it is no surprise. Drop in turbos or modified OEM turbos just cannot compare. They are not even in the same category.
Wow that engine bay is so clean. I thought mine looked good but you got me second guessing my under hood detail process. Lots of great info and too the point, please continue to make 7.3 videos please.
Sous, thank you for pointing me to your video from the forum. You just saved me a LOT of time, money and frustration. I have been pondering modifying the existing setup and now I know that is a waste of time. Just do the T4/SXE setup and be done with the whole deal! I've saved this video for future watching when I get my setup in and ready to install.
Your are welcome. I would also strongly recommend a tuner like a Hydra with the included PHP tunes. The SXE is the best turbo for the 7.3, but it is even better with a tuner. There is no need for an EGT gauge though like there is with the other turbo options. Even with 255,000 mile stock AD injectors on the PHP 65 HP Performance tune I tow a 12,000 lbs 5th wheel at 1000-1100 degrees up a grade holding 65 MPH at 2000 RPM steadily climbing on cruise control.
Perhaps, but I have not experienced that in my case. Although, I have only taken the T4 turbo out once to install the smaller brother 363/68/.91. I don't anticipate taking the T4 kit, tubes, exhaust or turbo out ever again at this point. If I do for some reason, the T4 kit will go back in just as it is now. Thanks for the heads up.
Awesome video! I would love to add this to my e99 rebuild / ZF6 install project, especially after reading your comments below about building boost after shifting and the EGT's.
I apologize for the late reply. Hey fella! Good to see you over here. I am not as good at replying in my videos as I need to be. I'm working on it though! See you at the next NGA GTG!
Thank you Shane! I sincerely hope it helps people understand that the install is not anymore difficult than another bolt on turbo setup. The cost is a bit more up front, but as you saw from the breakdown, after it is all said and done the cost is not a lot more. We are really looking forward to the performance gains this summer when towing the 5th wheel. Thanks again!
As you know, unlike the 4R100/automatic trucks, the ZF6/manual causes the turbo system to lose most of the boost it built up, just prior to shifting. There is an art involved in identifying the right gear to be in when climbing a grade, or predicting what gear to be in and get it right. Although, the SXE is very forgiving in the way of building boost back up very, very quickly. Unlike the modified stock turbo I was running before, the SXE builds up to 20+ lbs of boost nearly instantly when reapplying throttle after shifting up gears. Then you as the driver can control the throttle, speed, RPM and boost with your right foot. EGT's are no longer a concern, so I don't look at that gauge any longer. So, there is not really a lag when shifting. I would call it more of a delay in boost because the boost pressure does drop when shifting gears, but it builds back up so quickly that as soon as you are back on the throttle the SXE is back into the boost. From a stop and up shifting through the gears, the experience is the same. The SXE builds boost sooner and faster than the modified stock turbo ever could. This is with stock 255,000 mile AD injectors as well. I have a couple of friends that are running 160/30 and 205/80 injectors with the 364.5 and it is amazing. Another friend runs 180/80 injectors on a 366 SXE with a .91 turbine housing and loves the performance level. That is another great thing about the SXE. If you don't like the way it runs, change some parts out because it is very simple and nothing like a stock turbo, GTP38R or a KC38R or any other stock configuration turbo. I am glad you enjoyed the video and I hope it helped you come to a decision.
Seemed pretty good video. They forgot to send instructions so I downloaded them but wanted to get a visual. You spent that much on t4 setup, might as well get a regulated return. Screw that metal fuel line. Runs better anyway
Well, the 7.3L OEM fuel system is somewhat of a regulated fuel system as it was designed by Ford. It has a return fuel flow back to the tank, it has a regulator on the drivers side of the bowl which is higher than the supply and allows for air intrusion to be pushed back to the fuel tank. In addition, I have removed the in tank screens on the fuel sending unit and installed a Racor PS120 external screen filter on the frame. I have removed the quick connects from the fuel lines and installed fuel injector clamps along with new 30R9 diesel fuel line. In addition, the Bosch fuel pump supplies more than enough fuel at the recommended 62 PSI based on the 2000 MY Ford service manual and beyond. The T4 system was expensive, but after all of the take off parts were sold off I ended up paying ~$1750 for the turbo, T4 system and the accessories I purchased to go along with the kit. I could have gotten away with several hundred dollars less, but I wanted to do things a certain way and that added to the cost. The Borg Warner SXE on a T4 system is far superior to a drop in turbo and I use my truck to tow heavy cross country. The investment is worth it to me based on reliability, longevity, ease of driving and performance. Thanks for watching and commenting though, I hope it helped you with a decision or task.
@@LivingOurDream yeah it was good to give me a visual on how my t4 was going to fit in. Small differences here and there. But I got to see what I was working with
Awesome video. Direct and very informative. Too many how-to vids are 30% BS from someone that is a compulsive facebooker. I love your battery cable setup. How are terminals setup on the Alternator.?
Thank Josh, I was just commenting to my wife last night about how you start watch a video on a topic you like, then the person pans to the BBQ or a chair and talks about that for 15 minutes... We recently took a 1500 mile round trip with the 5th wheel trailer in tow. The SXE performed better than I could have hoped paired with the PHP 65 HP Performance tune on a Hydra tuner. Check out this link to the FTE forum where I described the first long distance trip to test the SXE: www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1538684-t4-sxe-vs-kc38r-decision-has-been-made-22.html#post18641067 As for the terminals on the alternator... I installed another ground cable (4 gauge I believe) from the alternator case where it mounts to the bracket that goes to the driver side negative battery terminal. I installed two positive cables off the B+ lug on the alternator using a vertical extension to get the positive lug up and away from the alternator case. From there, I used a 2 way fuse block and then 2 gauge SGX wire which runs to the positive terminals of each battery independently of each other. This method essentially doubles up the positive and negative wiring system from the factory. I also took a lot of time and cleaned all major positive and negative connections throughout the truck. Like the 2 ground connections on either side of the engine block for example. Here is a link to more information about the wiring install on the truck on the FTE forum. www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1527793-my-truck-needed-to-be-more-positive-and-energized.html Thanks for watching the video, I really hope it helped you answer some questions.
The first engine start after the install (and several oil priming no start sessions) is at 28:30, but the installation of the turbo and T4 kit start at the beginning of the video. Thanks for watching and I hope you enjoyed it!
I apologize for the late reply. I have stock injectors at 266,000 miles. I swapped the 364.5 turbo out for a smaller 363/68/.91 turbo and the results can be seen in the links below. ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
Wow all that work but still sucking hot air from the engine bay thru the inner cooler when a cold air intake would be better. Sucking colder air from outside is always better
My apologies for the late reply. Thank you for your comment. If you would like to see what the actual temperatures are for the IAT and MAT, they are in the links below. ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html ruclips.net/video/NLHp3j8Zf7E/видео.html
What was the reasoning of not going with a kc drop in turbo? I can see going t4 if you're going for big power but you're on stock injectors and that exhaust housing is going to be on the small side if and when you go bigger injectors, I have a relatively stock tp38 on my 94 f350, only mods on that turbo is a billet wheel and a 1.0 housing due to towing with 3.55 gears, but I can push 35 psi with it. And I've never seen someone put thread sealant on an o-ring fitting. One last thing, I dont recomend the flex pipe especially right under the cab, those things leak 90% of the time.
I apologize for the late reply. At the time, the KC38R was the only KC turbo available. It was generally sized to the Garrett GTP38R, which was absolutely the wrong turbo for my application. Now, there are several drop in KC turbos available. Since installing the 364.5 SX-E, I went to a smaller 363 SX-E and the results have been fantastic. I towed our 5th wheel cross country last summer through MT, ID, etc and back to GA. We went up 7% or more grades and up to 9,000' where the EGT's were in check, the boost was good and the sustaining of speed up grades was steady. Below is a link to the 363 SX-E results that I made prior to heading out on the trip last summer. Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html Bottom line is this... The SX-E is a solid performer, but so are the new line of KC drop in turbos. If I were to do it over again, I would be inclined to try the KC 63/68/.84 turbo, but I am overwhelmingly happy with the SX-E and have no plans to go with bigger injectors or another turbo swap. Regarding your comment about the sealant on the threads, I make mistakes just like everyone else. Perhaps this was one, but the union has been good since installing it, so it looks like this mistake was OK in the end.
I was reading a thing earlier on a Facebook 7.3 page about the necessity of having the EBPV hooked up in making the truck run correctly. My question to you is when you installed this kit was the EBPV deleted from the new turbine side housing? Or were you able to hook it up?
I apologize for the late reply. As Tonka wrote, you do not need the EBPV. Perhaps the thing you read was regarding the EBPS or the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor. Some people get the two confused as the EBPS is a sensor that is required for the PCM to provide proper fueling adjustments. Prior to installing the T4 kit, I had an EPBV delete pedestal. So, I have gone for nearly a decade with no EBPV, but I live in north GA where the EBPV is not needed. Some use the EBPV as a makeshift exhaust brake. I have a ZF6 manual and over years and 10's of thousands of miles towing heavy I have never needed an exhaust brake. This is to include the big mountain states like MT, CO, AZ, ID, WA, etc... I hope this helps you, even though it is way overdue.
Sorry for the late reply. The OEM cables are there, but I made the auxiliary/additional cables out of high grade automotive cable and lugs. Crimping is preferred over soldering for connections that could see a lot of resistance/heat. Again, sorry for the late reply.
I apologize for the late reply. Thank you for the compliment, but I simply learn from the experiences of others and my own experiences. I would recommend a 363/68/.91 or maybe a custom .83 A/R housing. Although, if you are running OEM injectors on the 97 OBS, you may want to look at the 362 line of SX-E turbos. Below is a follow up video of my test results after swapping out the 364.5 for the 363 turbo. Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html You may see some benefit to viewing it if you have a few moments.
Nicely done! I'm curious to hear how it tows as well. Does boost come in significantly sooner than with the modified stock piece? I'd love to get into the boost sooner to clean up some smoke while towing with my ZF5 and 3.55's.
Sorry for the late reply, we have been traveling out of town. I have not had a chance to tow with it yet since we have had our 5th wheel torn apart installing solar and all of the applicable equipment. A good friend of mine has the same T4/SXE setup and is running OEM AD injectors and has proven to me that it does fantastic. Steady boost at moderate levels, EGT's are 1100 or below even on 6% grades. I am looking forward to it, that is for sure.
@@diymechanictv1233 Absolutely! We use it to haul our 5th wheel camper around and about. We have chosen to make memories instead of money and collect experiences instead of things. We are very grateful for the lifestyle that we have been provided to live due to our hard work and dedication to family.
What size exhaust did you have in the video? And what size flex pipe did you use? Also where did you get the clamp from that you used on the down pipe side?
I had an MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust before installing the SXE and T4 kit. The Carson Stauffer Diesel T4 kit comes with a 3.5" down pipe, so the MBRP 4" down pipe was eliminated. I fit a 3.5" flex pipe Walker #42066 - smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AGMVVY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The flex pipe fit over the CSD down pipe and was secured with a 3.5" lap clamp - smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBF9L5/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The flex pipe fit into the MBRP 4" exhaust and I used a standard 4" exhaust clamp that came with the MBRP system to secure that connection. You could use another lap clamp for the flex pipe to exhaust section, but the joint is very secure with the standard exhaust clamp and does not leak. If you are fitting this kit to the OEM exhaust, you would need different sized clamps and I think the OEM exhaust is 3.5", but not sure.
Good Video, until you go to the Flex Pipe part, I cringe at the thought of that stuff. One big question, How do you keep your engine so Clean? do you ever drive this truck? I live in Montana and even NEW truck engines have dust on them.
I apologize for the late reply. I did not prefer to use flex pipe, but it was the same gauge and material the big trucks (18 wheelers) use to go to the stacks. After all this time and 10's of thousands of miles, I am happy to report the flex pipe is holding well. As for your question, I use Simple Green to degrease, then a garden hose flow of water to rinse. Then I take a short drive to burn the excess water off and use a petroleum based spray called "Aerospace Protectant 303" on the plastic pieces. I do not spray the 303 on though as I don't want the belt to absorb it. Regular cleaning and maintenance has helped a lot.
@@LivingOurDream all that is fine but for such a work up on your truck , if it were mine I would have a pipe Built for that piece you installed Flex Pipe, I have 4 Semi's and all of them have Flex pipe on the Exhaust right now 3 of them are rusted out Ugly and leaking, # 4 coming soon, yea it's quick and simple to use and needed for a Semi because of the constant twisting action.
@@marksmith7054 Thank you for the second response and ideas. As I mentioned earlier, the flex pipe is holding well and is showing no signs of rust (we live in the country of of north GA), leaking or being "ugly". Aesthetics is not what I was going for with the exhaust anyway as function was the primary concern and goal. Each time I change the oil or set out on an adventure with the 5th wheel (about once a month) I do a pre-trip inspection and the flex pipe is always an inspection point. If the flex pipe every begins to fail or show signs of "ugly", I will take appropriate action to resolve the issue. Again, thank you for your comment and I hope you get your Semi exhaust systems sorted out in an efficient and cost effective way.
Great video, thank you for sharing. What turbine housing sizes are options for this turbo on a 7.3L? What size housing did you choose and why? Thank you
I apologize for the late reply. I am sure you received your answer by now, but I will expand on my choices a bit... I started with a 64.5/74/.91 and ended up with a 63/68/.91. The 64.5 was a great performing turbo when matched to the OEM 140cc injectors, but the 63 is better. Below is a video of my results, I hope you find it useful even if it is a couple of years too late. Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
I performed the installation in 2018. The SX-E line of Borg Warner turbos was not out in 1999. If you meant to say "Was this done on an Early 99?", the answer is no. I have a 2000 model year truck. Although, the T4 kit would still work, you would need L99 - 2003 plenums as the E99 had a slightly smaller plenum cover inlet. If your stage comment was regarding injectors, I would say get the forced induction dialed in before adding more fuel or tuning changes. That is just my opinion though. On my 266,000 mile truck with original injectors and HPOP, I can tow our 5th wheel (18,000 - 20,000 lbs GCVW) cross country with no issues on PHP 65 HP tune. Just last summer we towed over the Rocky Mountains from GA to ID and back and were at 9,000' at one point in WY. The truck just kept going, holding speed at 55 or 65 (based on the speed limit). We had completed this trip before with a modified stock turbo and there is/was zero comparison. It is amazing what a more advanced turbo can do for a dinosaur truck and engine.
I am glad you enjoyed it. We have a few other videos about our ZF6 (6 speed) truck at the following link. I plan to do more, but nothing in the works at the moment. Thanks for watching and I hope they will help you with an issue or an decision you are faced with. ruclips.net/p/PL5blclzP3mjORWsk6dLJZEE-Kv1XAzSir
No wastegate or wastegate controller is required with the Borg Warner SX-E turbo. I can reach peak boost near 40 PSI on stock/OEM AD injectors with 255,000 miles on them on PHP 65 HP tune. Normally my boost is 15-25 PSI when towing heavy. It is saud that up to about 40-45 PSI of boost is safe for a mostly stock 7.3L. Above that, upgraded valve springs should be considered.
So many adult decisions were made here lol. Not once was no fucks given in this install. If you ever open a diesel shop in Florida i would be glad to bring you all my trucks. Great video. To the 10 people who thumbs downed the video... you should probably get off youtube and go wash your huffy lol
I apologize for the late reply. Thank you for the compliment and I know that I (or anyone else) cannot make everyone happy all the time. Some people complain or thumbs down things as a hobby just to try and get a rise out of people. Life is too busy and there are too many opportunities to be happy to worry about the haters. Take care down there in FL!
The simple answer is yes and no, which is confusing. Most of the RiffRaff IC boots were re-used, but the one that was not re-usable came in the CSD T4 kit. It is the boot in the middle of the valley that goes from the driver side IC tube to the turbo inlet on top of the engine facing the front of the vehicle. I actually bought a slightly longer boot for that spot because I didn't feel the short boot from CSD would hold up well enough. I felt it did not give me enough "wiggle room" or pressure on the joint to maintain a good seal during a higher boost situation. I bought a boot that was 5" where the CSD boot is 2.5" or so. I ended up cutting about 1.5" off the boot I bought, but it fit perfectly onto the tube and turbo and has been holding well since installing the kit. At 31:31 in the video, you can see the boot CSD included in the kit which is blue and in the top left of the screen. It is between the Y-pipe and the up-pipes. Also at 1:22 you can see where I listed the new 5" boot that I bought for the kit. Again, this is completely unnecessary, but I felt it would be a nice piece to add to the kit. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@j3ttwenty3 I bought it from www.getfast1.com but if you find any 3" - 2.5" x 5" boot you will be set. I have seen them cheaper on Amazon or other retailers since then. Here is a direct link to the one I bought - www.getfast1.com/HOS-76063-3--25-x-5-Straight-4-Ply-Silicone-Intake-Intercooler-Reducer-Coupler-Black_p_5987.html Just get one that has thick walls like the aftermarket boots and not like the OEM boots that are thin walled. The T4/SXE is second to none on these trucks, even with 250,000 mile stock injectors!
Yes, it is a bit louder under load, but I installed an open air Donaldson 6637 filter on the truck too. This filter makes the turbo much louder. In fact, with a Garrett GTP38R, the Donaldson 6637 filter makes the turbo whine unbearable. The SXE does let you know it is there, but it is not bad at all as it doesn't get "loud" until ~20 PSI and even then it is not too bad in my opinion. If I find it annoying over time, I will get an AIS intake for it, like I had with the modified turbo. It really is a strong performing setup and we look forward to working it hard this spring and summer during camping season.
This must be a old video i just got my t4 kit and its nothing like this i knocked out a freeze plug in the middle of the block on top for the turbo drain and in the rear was turbo oil supply
The date near the title of the video indicates it was published 5 years ago. I installed the T4 kit in the fall of 2018, so that is about right. Sounds like you may have an Irate Diesel T4 kit. This video documents my install of a CSD T4 kit. There are several T4 kits available from several shops. Each of them has different ways and designs of accomplishing the same thing. I hope you are pleased with your purchase.
@LivingOurDream yea i am i hope lol the supply is different from the drain on i guess the newer style the instructions they give you are crap you might as well wing it or see what fits you know what im talking about there crap instructions i will figure it out
@@marklott8235 As I noted last night, each shop has their own way of doing things. The oil supply and drain are two primary differences between shops. As you can see in the link below, the CSD T4 kit has the oil supply and drain pictured as I have shown in the video. In the picture, you can see the hoses resting on the pedestal base. Link: www.carsonstaufferdiesel.com/collections/1999-2003-ford-7-3l/products/t4-turbo-kit?variant=3302836481 Not that there is anything wrong with the valley freeze plug method Irate uses, but that is a reason why I went with CSD for the T4 kit. The instructions in the CSD kit were inadequate as well. I seem to recall mentioning that in the video. I eventually swapped the 364.5/74/.91 out for a 363/68/.91 and am very happy paired to the 266,000 mile AD injectors. Even at 9,000 ft elevation climbing a grade in WY towing the 5th wheel. The SXE was a huge upgrade and I no longer desire to install bigger than OEM injectors. 363 SXE results: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html Good luck to you, it is worth the effort.
@LivingOurDream yea i just got my motor back in did .20 over ceramic coated pistons carrilo rods arp studded heads and crank with girdle stage 2 colt cam Adrenaline hpop pump t4 kit with sxe 369 turbo with .91 housing 250cc injectors with 200% tips 7/16 pushrods air dog fuel system fluid damper and dp tuner
Pretty silly going from the AIS filter to a 6637..no better filter than the AIS.. in my opinion worth a couple of hp for better filtration... Otherwise excellent video!
I agree that removing the AIS was a hard choice, but it had to be done because the SXE required more air than the AIS could provide. In addition, the SXE does not make any more noise with the 6637 filter than the modified stock turbo did with the AIS intake. Most people switch to an S&B or AFE intake when going to a larger turbo, but the 6637 has proven itself over the years to be a solid performer. With the pre-filter installed, I have complete confidence in the 6637 regarding filtration and air supply being demanded by the SXE. Thanks for your compliment, I am glad you enjoyed the video!
@@LivingOurDream you can modify the outside of the AIS for more flow... I've seen a few dyno results testing the popular ones, and I think the modded AIS only choked 8 or 10 hp... worth it to me, mainly because where I live and work, it gets extremely dusty during the summer, so since I already have it, I'm gonna go that route... I plan on doing a s366 or 369sxe this summer... I'll definitely reference back to this video
@@stanleykendziorski7964 I had done the more air flow modification to the AIS prior to installing the SXE and when I still had the modified stock turbo on. I also installed the foam cone to bring more fresh air into the AIS from the fender cavity. Despite these mods the AIS was just barely providing enough air for the modified stock turbo. I didn't want any choking of any sort going on for the SXE or what air it was attempting to push into the plenums of the engine. I tow heavy with the truck and need as much air as possible when climbing a steep grade. It is a personal decision 100%, but for my uses a 6637 with a pre-filter wrap on it will provide adequate air to the engine while providing adequate filtration of said air. The noise was a factor as well as I don't care for turbo whine drowning out the life happening around me. Although, the SXE is quiet enough that even with an open air filter like the 6637, the noise is still very comparable to the what the modified stock turbo was pushing out with the noise cancelling properties of the AIS. Each truck is different, even if they were built identical to each other nearly 20 years ago. You have to do what is right for you, your goals and use of the truck. Do you have large/upgraded injectors since you plan to install a 366/369?
Does the SX-E clean up the smoke down lower in the RPM band? I have a modded stock turbo that works really well with my 160's but it is very smoky until the turbo lights at 2,000 RPM.
It does do a good job of cleaning up smoke. I have a couple of friends running this turbo with bigger injectors. They have 160/30, 180/80 and 200/30 and all of them have great results out of the SXE turbo. Even my stock 250,000 mile AD injectors on a hot tune do not smoke. I hope this helps and answers your question.
I apologize for the late reply. It seems that there are two gaskets for the T4 flange to turbo union. One is for the open flange and the other is for the split flange. This is on the turbo itself, not the flange from the T4 kit builder. Borg Warner calls these flanges "open flow" or "twin flow". The T4 turbo I have is of the open flow design. I hope this helps.
I apologize for the late reply. Hopefully you sorted out your question by now, but in case you haven't... I preferred the turbo oil drain method of the CSD kit over the Irate kit. That and a couple of other 7.3L owners I chat with every once in a while had the CSD kit, so I was a bit more familiar with it.
407ForRent, please send me a private message here on RUclips or on the www.ford-trucks.com forums. My username on the forums is Sous. Maybe we can work something out to get you set back up, but I don't think posting personal information here is a good idea. I look forward to hearing from you soon.
I apologize for the late reply. It is great! No need to waste boost if the system is designed to utilize it properly. Below is a video link where I provide a visual of the results of a 363 SX-E I installed. Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
Fizzi, no problem! Starting at 1:10 in the video I have a parts breakdown listing. I broke this listing down even further and listed the "required" parts in the list on the left and the parts that were required and "optional" in the list on the right. Depending on if you sold the take off parts like the up-pipes and GTP38 stock turbo, the kit should cost you anywhere from $1400 to $2200. If you look closely at the lists I have noted the parts I purchased, then the parts I sold and what they were bought and sold for. I have heard that the CSD T4 kit went up by $100, but cannot confirm that. I also know that the Borg Warner SXE fluctuates a lot on price. I bought the SXE turbo for ~$730, but have seen it below $600 since then. It really depends on the retailer and deals or sales they are offering at the time. I will tell you this... I have 254,000 miles on my stock injectors and this turbo made the truck run better than new. We pulled our 12,000 lbs 5th wheel from GA to PA and back through the mountains and it held 65 MPH at 2000 RPM even up the grades. No downshifting or cruise control canceling itself due to loss of speed. I wish I had done this years ago, but live and learn!
I installed a 4" turbo back MBRP (S6200P) exhaust with muffler in 2015. The down pipe included with the CSD T4 kit is 3.5". I mated the 3.5" down pipe to the 4" MBRP exhaust with muffler intact. I hope this helps.
@@LivingOurDream awesome I am in the middle of installing an s366 in my 7.3 using the same kit but mine is a 5 inch straight pipe I’m really excited to hear this monster
@@gregshue645 I hope you are pleased with the sound and performance once you are done! Keep me updated if you like and post a link to a video if you create one.
Yes and no from my viewpoint. Most of those parts I had either replaced with updated parts or newer parts due to the age of the truck or looking for more efficiency out of the truck. For example, the up-pipes I had replaced with bellowed up-pipes. The turbo I have had off to install a billet compressor wheel and high flow outlet. So, yes it was a lot of work, but it was all "bolt on parts" that I had removed and installed in the past. Thanks for watching!
I sold the AIS intake before I even had the SXE installed! The AIS was/is a good intake though, so if you are thinking about it, let me assure you that it is a good addition.
Seriously the company you bought your kit from should be paying you for this video and linking it in every kit sold. Wow, very informative. Great video!
I apologize for the late reply.
The payment I receive is helping others make informed decisions or aiding them in their installation process.
Thank you for the kind words.
Hands down, the best install video of any DIY or even professional install. How the heck do u only have the amount of subscribers that u have? U should have hundreds of thousands or even millions.
Thanks for the compliment on the video. I do what I can in order to keep the video on topic and the content relevant.
As for subscribers, luckily for us we create videos such as this in an effort to pay back all the advice and help we received.
Thanks again and I hope this helped you make a decision with confidence.
Very thorough video!! Nicely done! I want to do a t4 on my 7.3 rather than a drop-in to pair with my 180/30 single shots.
There is no comparison between a drop in turbo of any kind to the T4 turbos. If you decide to go this route, you will not be let down at all. You will be "boosted" up to what you have wanted out of your truck for so long.
Your engine bay is so clean you don't even get your hands dirty doing all this work!
I do what I can! I recently had a HPOP hose leak and I had to break out the brake cleaner, Simple Green and the hose to get it back into shape.
Well explained and clean work, keep up the good work.
I apologize for the late reply.
Thanks for the compliment. Creating the video was more work than the T4 kit install.
Best video ive seen of a t4 install on a 7.3.Thank you sir!!
You are very welcome!
You can never go wrong with Borg Warner.
Based on my experiences I would agree with you.
Best informative video I've ever seen....VERY nice job all around!!! Thank you.
I do like that design and the sound of the exhaust better, doesn't have the distinctive 7.3 choppy exhaust sound anymore.
Thank you Lance. I learn from others videos and experiences and do my best to pass along the service.
The engine responds very well to the SXE turbo pushing air into the plenums, it is a really smooth and free flowing system. Borg Warner did a really good job and frankly the technology from the original GTP38 (OEM turbo) has advanced so much in the past 2 decades that it is no surprise.
Drop in turbos or modified OEM turbos just cannot compare. They are not even in the same category.
Wow that engine bay is so clean. I thought mine looked good but you got me second guessing my under hood detail process. Lots of great info and too the point, please continue to make 7.3 videos please.
I apologize for the late reply.
Thanks for the compliment on the engine bay!
Very well done and thoughtful video! Well organized. Thank you!
Thank you Michael! I try to cut out the BS and get to the point, that is why people clicked on the video in the first place.
Sous, thank you for pointing me to your video from the forum. You just saved me a LOT of time, money and frustration. I have been pondering modifying the existing setup and now I know that is a waste of time. Just do the T4/SXE setup and be done with the whole deal! I've saved this video for future watching when I get my setup in and ready to install.
Your are welcome.
I would also strongly recommend a tuner like a Hydra with the included PHP tunes.
The SXE is the best turbo for the 7.3, but it is even better with a tuner. There is no need for an EGT gauge though like there is with the other turbo options.
Even with 255,000 mile stock AD injectors on the PHP 65 HP Performance tune I tow a 12,000 lbs 5th wheel at 1000-1100 degrees up a grade holding 65 MPH at 2000 RPM steadily climbing on cruise control.
Some say those guiliteen style clamps cause the exhaust joints to be permanent because of the way they distort the pipes.
Perhaps, but I have not experienced that in my case. Although, I have only taken the T4 turbo out once to install the smaller brother 363/68/.91. I don't anticipate taking the T4 kit, tubes, exhaust or turbo out ever again at this point. If I do for some reason, the T4 kit will go back in just as it is now.
Thanks for the heads up.
Awesome video! I would love to add this to my e99 rebuild / ZF6 install project, especially after reading your comments below about building boost after shifting and the EGT's.
I apologize for the late reply.
Hey fella! Good to see you over here. I am not as good at replying in my videos as I need to be. I'm working on it though!
See you at the next NGA GTG!
Great video!
Thank you sir, I appreciate the compliment.
great install..... very well made video brudda
Thank you Shane! I sincerely hope it helps people understand that the install is not anymore difficult than another bolt on turbo setup. The cost is a bit more up front, but as you saw from the breakdown, after it is all said and done the cost is not a lot more.
We are really looking forward to the performance gains this summer when towing the 5th wheel.
Thanks again!
As a zf6 guy I have to ask what the lag is like from a stop and shifting. Thanks for the video
As you know, unlike the 4R100/automatic trucks, the ZF6/manual causes the turbo system to lose most of the boost it built up, just prior to shifting. There is an art involved in identifying the right gear to be in when climbing a grade, or predicting what gear to be in and get it right.
Although, the SXE is very forgiving in the way of building boost back up very, very quickly. Unlike the modified stock turbo I was running before, the SXE builds up to 20+ lbs of boost nearly instantly when reapplying throttle after shifting up gears. Then you as the driver can control the throttle, speed, RPM and boost with your right foot. EGT's are no longer a concern, so I don't look at that gauge any longer.
So, there is not really a lag when shifting. I would call it more of a delay in boost because the boost pressure does drop when shifting gears, but it builds back up so quickly that as soon as you are back on the throttle the SXE is back into the boost.
From a stop and up shifting through the gears, the experience is the same. The SXE builds boost sooner and faster than the modified stock turbo ever could. This is with stock 255,000 mile AD injectors as well. I have a couple of friends that are running 160/30 and 205/80 injectors with the 364.5 and it is amazing. Another friend runs 180/80 injectors on a 366 SXE with a .91 turbine housing and loves the performance level.
That is another great thing about the SXE. If you don't like the way it runs, change some parts out because it is very simple and nothing like a stock turbo, GTP38R or a KC38R or any other stock configuration turbo.
I am glad you enjoyed the video and I hope it helped you come to a decision.
Seemed pretty good video. They forgot to send instructions so I downloaded them but wanted to get a visual. You spent that much on t4 setup, might as well get a regulated return. Screw that metal fuel line. Runs better anyway
Well, the 7.3L OEM fuel system is somewhat of a regulated fuel system as it was designed by Ford. It has a return fuel flow back to the tank, it has a regulator on the drivers side of the bowl which is higher than the supply and allows for air intrusion to be pushed back to the fuel tank.
In addition, I have removed the in tank screens on the fuel sending unit and installed a Racor PS120 external screen filter on the frame. I have removed the quick connects from the fuel lines and installed fuel injector clamps along with new 30R9 diesel fuel line.
In addition, the Bosch fuel pump supplies more than enough fuel at the recommended 62 PSI based on the 2000 MY Ford service manual and beyond.
The T4 system was expensive, but after all of the take off parts were sold off I ended up paying ~$1750 for the turbo, T4 system and the accessories I purchased to go along with the kit. I could have gotten away with several hundred dollars less, but I wanted to do things a certain way and that added to the cost.
The Borg Warner SXE on a T4 system is far superior to a drop in turbo and I use my truck to tow heavy cross country. The investment is worth it to me based on reliability, longevity, ease of driving and performance.
Thanks for watching and commenting though, I hope it helped you with a decision or task.
@@LivingOurDream yeah it was good to give me a visual on how my t4 was going to fit in. Small differences here and there. But I got to see what I was working with
Awesome video and very well detailed.
Thank you Fox Trot! I hope this helped you make a decision or at least provided a bit of entertainment.
Awesome video , looking at swapping this turbo into my obs 7.3 manual aswell
You will love it... drop back in after it is installed and let us know your thoughts on the performance gains and the EGT losses.
Ma that is one clean engine bay!
Thanks! I believe that if/when there is a leak or an issue a clean engine bay will not only help me identify it but repair it and stay somewhat clean.
Awesome video. Direct and very informative. Too many how-to vids are 30% BS from someone that is a compulsive facebooker.
I love your battery cable setup. How are terminals setup on the Alternator.?
Thank Josh, I was just commenting to my wife last night about how you start watch a video on a topic you like, then the person pans to the BBQ or a chair and talks about that for 15 minutes...
We recently took a 1500 mile round trip with the 5th wheel trailer in tow. The SXE performed better than I could have hoped paired with the PHP 65 HP Performance tune on a Hydra tuner.
Check out this link to the FTE forum where I described the first long distance trip to test the SXE: www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1538684-t4-sxe-vs-kc38r-decision-has-been-made-22.html#post18641067
As for the terminals on the alternator... I installed another ground cable (4 gauge I believe) from the alternator case where it mounts to the bracket that goes to the driver side negative battery terminal.
I installed two positive cables off the B+ lug on the alternator using a vertical extension to get the positive lug up and away from the alternator case. From there, I used a 2 way fuse block and then 2 gauge SGX wire which runs to the positive terminals of each battery independently of each other.
This method essentially doubles up the positive and negative wiring system from the factory. I also took a lot of time and cleaned all major positive and negative connections throughout the truck. Like the 2 ground connections on either side of the engine block for example.
Here is a link to more information about the wiring install on the truck on the FTE forum.
www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1527793-my-truck-needed-to-be-more-positive-and-energized.html
Thanks for watching the video, I really hope it helped you answer some questions.
starts around 28:01
The first engine start after the install (and several oil priming no start sessions) is at 28:30, but the installation of the turbo and T4 kit start at the beginning of the video. Thanks for watching and I hope you enjoyed it!
Do you have stock injectors? A bigger turbo wont do a whole lot on stock injectors
I apologize for the late reply.
I have stock injectors at 266,000 miles. I swapped the 364.5 turbo out for a smaller 363/68/.91 turbo and the results can be seen in the links below.
ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
Wow all that work but still sucking hot air from the engine bay thru the inner cooler when a cold air intake would be better. Sucking colder air from outside is always better
My apologies for the late reply.
Thank you for your comment. If you would like to see what the actual temperatures are for the IAT and MAT, they are in the links below.
ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/NLHp3j8Zf7E/видео.html
What was the reasoning of not going with a kc drop in turbo? I can see going t4 if you're going for big power but you're on stock injectors and that exhaust housing is going to be on the small side if and when you go bigger injectors, I have a relatively stock tp38 on my 94 f350, only mods on that turbo is a billet wheel and a 1.0 housing due to towing with 3.55 gears, but I can push 35 psi with it.
And I've never seen someone put thread sealant on an o-ring fitting.
One last thing, I dont recomend the flex pipe especially right under the cab, those things leak 90% of the time.
Yeah I don't get why an o ringed fitting needed pipe dope. Didn't make sense to me
I apologize for the late reply.
At the time, the KC38R was the only KC turbo available. It was generally sized to the Garrett GTP38R, which was absolutely the wrong turbo for my application. Now, there are several drop in KC turbos available.
Since installing the 364.5 SX-E, I went to a smaller 363 SX-E and the results have been fantastic. I towed our 5th wheel cross country last summer through MT, ID, etc and back to GA. We went up 7% or more grades and up to 9,000' where the EGT's were in check, the boost was good and the sustaining of speed up grades was steady.
Below is a link to the 363 SX-E results that I made prior to heading out on the trip last summer.
Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
Bottom line is this... The SX-E is a solid performer, but so are the new line of KC drop in turbos. If I were to do it over again, I would be inclined to try the KC 63/68/.84 turbo, but I am overwhelmingly happy with the SX-E and have no plans to go with bigger injectors or another turbo swap.
Regarding your comment about the sealant on the threads, I make mistakes just like everyone else. Perhaps this was one, but the union has been good since installing it, so it looks like this mistake was OK in the end.
I was reading a thing earlier on a Facebook 7.3 page about the necessity of having the EBPV hooked up in making the truck run correctly. My question to you is when you installed this kit was the EBPV deleted from the new turbine side housing? Or were you able to hook it up?
No. You do not need the ebpv. I had to gutted on my stock turbo
I apologize for the late reply.
As Tonka wrote, you do not need the EBPV. Perhaps the thing you read was regarding the EBPS or the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor. Some people get the two confused as the EBPS is a sensor that is required for the PCM to provide proper fueling adjustments.
Prior to installing the T4 kit, I had an EPBV delete pedestal. So, I have gone for nearly a decade with no EBPV, but I live in north GA where the EBPV is not needed.
Some use the EBPV as a makeshift exhaust brake. I have a ZF6 manual and over years and 10's of thousands of miles towing heavy I have never needed an exhaust brake. This is to include the big mountain states like MT, CO, AZ, ID, WA, etc...
I hope this helps you, even though it is way overdue.
Guess I’m gonna have to get Borg S3 to go on my 97 7.3😎
I apologize for the late reply.
They truly are a great turbo that is matched well to the 7.3L platform.
Did you make the battery cables or buy them? Those don't appear to be the stock cables.
Sorry for the late reply.
The OEM cables are there, but I made the auxiliary/additional cables out of high grade automotive cable and lugs. Crimping is preferred over soldering for connections that could see a lot of resistance/heat.
Again, sorry for the late reply.
Wow! You’re an impressive dude. What would you recommend as a far as sxe turbos/t4 for a 97 obs 4.10 auto on 35” tires?
I apologize for the late reply.
Thank you for the compliment, but I simply learn from the experiences of others and my own experiences. I would recommend a 363/68/.91 or maybe a custom .83 A/R housing. Although, if you are running OEM injectors on the 97 OBS, you may want to look at the 362 line of SX-E turbos.
Below is a follow up video of my test results after swapping out the 364.5 for the 363 turbo.
Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
You may see some benefit to viewing it if you have a few moments.
Nicely done! I'm curious to hear how it tows as well. Does boost come in significantly sooner than with the modified stock piece? I'd love to get into the boost sooner to clean up some smoke while towing with my ZF5 and 3.55's.
Sorry for the late reply, we have been traveling out of town.
I have not had a chance to tow with it yet since we have had our 5th wheel torn apart installing solar and all of the applicable equipment. A good friend of mine has the same T4/SXE setup and is running OEM AD injectors and has proven to me that it does fantastic. Steady boost at moderate levels, EGT's are 1100 or below even on 6% grades.
I am looking forward to it, that is for sure.
@@LivingOurDream, that is quite alright! That's what the truck is for, right?
@@diymechanictv1233 Absolutely! We use it to haul our 5th wheel camper around and about. We have chosen to make memories instead of money and collect experiences instead of things.
We are very grateful for the lifestyle that we have been provided to live due to our hard work and dedication to family.
What size exhaust did you have in the video? And what size flex pipe did you use? Also where did you get the clamp from that you used on the down pipe side?
I had an MBRP 4" turbo back exhaust before installing the SXE and T4 kit. The Carson Stauffer Diesel T4 kit comes with a 3.5" down pipe, so the MBRP 4" down pipe was eliminated.
I fit a 3.5" flex pipe Walker #42066 - smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AGMVVY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The flex pipe fit over the CSD down pipe and was secured with a 3.5" lap clamp - smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBF9L5/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The flex pipe fit into the MBRP 4" exhaust and I used a standard 4" exhaust clamp that came with the MBRP system to secure that connection. You could use another lap clamp for the flex pipe to exhaust section, but the joint is very secure with the standard exhaust clamp and does not leak.
If you are fitting this kit to the OEM exhaust, you would need different sized clamps and I think the OEM exhaust is 3.5", but not sure.
Good Video, until you go to the Flex Pipe part, I cringe at the thought of that stuff. One big question, How do you keep your engine so Clean? do you ever drive this truck? I live in Montana and even NEW truck engines have dust on them.
I apologize for the late reply.
I did not prefer to use flex pipe, but it was the same gauge and material the big trucks (18 wheelers) use to go to the stacks. After all this time and 10's of thousands of miles, I am happy to report the flex pipe is holding well.
As for your question, I use Simple Green to degrease, then a garden hose flow of water to rinse. Then I take a short drive to burn the excess water off and use a petroleum based spray called "Aerospace Protectant 303" on the plastic pieces. I do not spray the 303 on though as I don't want the belt to absorb it.
Regular cleaning and maintenance has helped a lot.
@@LivingOurDream all that is fine but for such a work up on your truck , if it were mine I would have a pipe Built for that piece you installed Flex Pipe, I have 4 Semi's and all of them have Flex pipe on the Exhaust right now 3 of them are rusted out Ugly and leaking, # 4 coming soon, yea it's quick and simple to use and needed for a Semi because of the constant twisting action.
@@marksmith7054 Thank you for the second response and ideas.
As I mentioned earlier, the flex pipe is holding well and is showing no signs of rust (we live in the country of of north GA), leaking or being "ugly". Aesthetics is not what I was going for with the exhaust anyway as function was the primary concern and goal. Each time I change the oil or set out on an adventure with the 5th wheel (about once a month) I do a pre-trip inspection and the flex pipe is always an inspection point.
If the flex pipe every begins to fail or show signs of "ugly", I will take appropriate action to resolve the issue.
Again, thank you for your comment and I hope you get your Semi exhaust systems sorted out in an efficient and cost effective way.
Great video, thank you for sharing. What turbine housing sizes are options for this turbo on a 7.3L? What size housing did you choose and why? Thank you
I apologize for the late reply.
I am sure you received your answer by now, but I will expand on my choices a bit...
I started with a 64.5/74/.91 and ended up with a 63/68/.91. The 64.5 was a great performing turbo when matched to the OEM 140cc injectors, but the 63 is better.
Below is a video of my results, I hope you find it useful even if it is a couple of years too late.
Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
Was this done in an Early 99? I wanna do it to mine, I am torn between leaving my stage 1’s on ir going with stage 1.5’s
I performed the installation in 2018. The SX-E line of Borg Warner turbos was not out in 1999.
If you meant to say "Was this done on an Early 99?", the answer is no. I have a 2000 model year truck. Although, the T4 kit would still work, you would need L99 - 2003 plenums as the E99 had a slightly smaller plenum cover inlet.
If your stage comment was regarding injectors, I would say get the forced induction dialed in before adding more fuel or tuning changes. That is just my opinion though.
On my 266,000 mile truck with original injectors and HPOP, I can tow our 5th wheel (18,000 - 20,000 lbs GCVW) cross country with no issues on PHP 65 HP tune. Just last summer we towed over the Rocky Mountains from GA to ID and back and were at 9,000' at one point in WY. The truck just kept going, holding speed at 55 or 65 (based on the speed limit).
We had completed this trip before with a modified stock turbo and there is/was zero comparison. It is amazing what a more advanced turbo can do for a dinosaur truck and engine.
This was a great video u shiitake a Chanel I have the same truck and I can’t find anything on the six speed trucks
I am glad you enjoyed it. We have a few other videos about our ZF6 (6 speed) truck at the following link. I plan to do more, but nothing in the works at the moment. Thanks for watching and I hope they will help you with an issue or an decision you are faced with.
ruclips.net/p/PL5blclzP3mjORWsk6dLJZEE-Kv1XAzSir
Do you have a wastegate or some way to control how much boost you run? Just installed this kit and realized I have no wastegate
No wastegate or wastegate controller is required with the Borg Warner SX-E turbo. I can reach peak boost near 40 PSI on stock/OEM AD injectors with 255,000 miles on them on PHP 65 HP tune.
Normally my boost is 15-25 PSI when towing heavy.
It is saud that up to about 40-45 PSI of boost is safe for a mostly stock 7.3L. Above that, upgraded valve springs should be considered.
So many adult decisions were made here lol. Not once was no fucks given in this install. If you ever open a diesel shop in Florida i would be glad to bring you all my trucks. Great video. To the 10 people who thumbs downed the video... you should probably get off youtube and go wash your huffy lol
I apologize for the late reply.
Thank you for the compliment and I know that I (or anyone else) cannot make everyone happy all the time. Some people complain or thumbs down things as a hobby just to try and get a rise out of people.
Life is too busy and there are too many opportunities to be happy to worry about the haters.
Take care down there in FL!
Were you able to re use the riff raff intercooler boots with the t4 piping or did you have to order new boots?
The simple answer is yes and no, which is confusing.
Most of the RiffRaff IC boots were re-used, but the one that was not re-usable came in the CSD T4 kit. It is the boot in the middle of the valley that goes from the driver side IC tube to the turbo inlet on top of the engine facing the front of the vehicle.
I actually bought a slightly longer boot for that spot because I didn't feel the short boot from CSD would hold up well enough. I felt it did not give me enough "wiggle room" or pressure on the joint to maintain a good seal during a higher boost situation.
I bought a boot that was 5" where the CSD boot is 2.5" or so. I ended up cutting about 1.5" off the boot I bought, but it fit perfectly onto the tube and turbo and has been holding well since installing the kit.
At 31:31 in the video, you can see the boot CSD included in the kit which is blue and in the top left of the screen. It is between the Y-pipe and the up-pipes.
Also at 1:22 you can see where I listed the new 5" boot that I bought for the kit. Again, this is completely unnecessary, but I felt it would be a nice piece to add to the kit.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Living Our Dream okay awesome, where did you purchase that 5” boot? Getting close to purchasing my t4 mounting kit here soon
@@j3ttwenty3 I bought it from www.getfast1.com but if you find any 3" - 2.5" x 5" boot you will be set. I have seen them cheaper on Amazon or other retailers since then.
Here is a direct link to the one I bought - www.getfast1.com/HOS-76063-3--25-x-5-Straight-4-Ply-Silicone-Intake-Intercooler-Reducer-Coupler-Black_p_5987.html
Just get one that has thick walls like the aftermarket boots and not like the OEM boots that are thin walled.
The T4/SXE is second to none on these trucks, even with 250,000 mile stock injectors!
Sounds like it whistles louder under load but less at idle.
Yes, it is a bit louder under load, but I installed an open air Donaldson 6637 filter on the truck too. This filter makes the turbo much louder. In fact, with a Garrett GTP38R, the Donaldson 6637 filter makes the turbo whine unbearable.
The SXE does let you know it is there, but it is not bad at all as it doesn't get "loud" until ~20 PSI and even then it is not too bad in my opinion. If I find it annoying over time, I will get an AIS intake for it, like I had with the modified turbo.
It really is a strong performing setup and we look forward to working it hard this spring and summer during camping season.
This must be a old video i just got my t4 kit and its nothing like this i knocked out a freeze plug in the middle of the block on top for the turbo drain and in the rear was turbo oil supply
The date near the title of the video indicates it was published 5 years ago. I installed the T4 kit in the fall of 2018, so that is about right.
Sounds like you may have an Irate Diesel T4 kit. This video documents my install of a CSD T4 kit.
There are several T4 kits available from several shops. Each of them has different ways and designs of accomplishing the same thing.
I hope you are pleased with your purchase.
@LivingOurDream yea i am i hope lol the supply is different from the drain on i guess the newer style the instructions they give you are crap you might as well wing it or see what fits you know what im talking about there crap instructions i will figure it out
@@marklott8235 As I noted last night, each shop has their own way of doing things. The oil supply and drain are two primary differences between shops. As you can see in the link below, the CSD T4 kit has the oil supply and drain pictured as I have shown in the video. In the picture, you can see the hoses resting on the pedestal base.
Link: www.carsonstaufferdiesel.com/collections/1999-2003-ford-7-3l/products/t4-turbo-kit?variant=3302836481
Not that there is anything wrong with the valley freeze plug method Irate uses, but that is a reason why I went with CSD for the T4 kit.
The instructions in the CSD kit were inadequate as well. I seem to recall mentioning that in the video.
I eventually swapped the 364.5/74/.91 out for a 363/68/.91 and am very happy paired to the 266,000 mile AD injectors. Even at 9,000 ft elevation climbing a grade in WY towing the 5th wheel. The SXE was a huge upgrade and I no longer desire to install bigger than OEM injectors.
363 SXE results: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
Good luck to you, it is worth the effort.
@LivingOurDream yea i just got my motor back in did .20 over ceramic coated pistons carrilo rods arp studded heads and crank with girdle stage 2 colt cam Adrenaline hpop pump t4 kit with sxe 369 turbo with .91 housing 250cc injectors with 200% tips 7/16 pushrods air dog fuel system fluid damper and dp tuner
@@marklott8235 Who is doing your tuning or are you going to live tune it yourself with Quarter horse/Minotaur software?
Pretty silly going from the AIS filter to a 6637..no better filter than the AIS.. in my opinion worth a couple of hp for better filtration...
Otherwise excellent video!
I agree that removing the AIS was a hard choice, but it had to be done because the SXE required more air than the AIS could provide. In addition, the SXE does not make any more noise with the 6637 filter than the modified stock turbo did with the AIS intake.
Most people switch to an S&B or AFE intake when going to a larger turbo, but the 6637 has proven itself over the years to be a solid performer. With the pre-filter installed, I have complete confidence in the 6637 regarding filtration and air supply being demanded by the SXE.
Thanks for your compliment, I am glad you enjoyed the video!
@@LivingOurDream you can modify the outside of the AIS for more flow... I've seen a few dyno results testing the popular ones, and I think the modded AIS only choked 8 or 10 hp... worth it to me, mainly because where I live and work, it gets extremely dusty during the summer, so since I already have it, I'm gonna go that route...
I plan on doing a s366 or 369sxe this summer... I'll definitely reference back to this video
@@stanleykendziorski7964 I had done the more air flow modification to the AIS prior to installing the SXE and when I still had the modified stock turbo on. I also installed the foam cone to bring more fresh air into the AIS from the fender cavity. Despite these mods the AIS was just barely providing enough air for the modified stock turbo.
I didn't want any choking of any sort going on for the SXE or what air it was attempting to push into the plenums of the engine. I tow heavy with the truck and need as much air as possible when climbing a steep grade.
It is a personal decision 100%, but for my uses a 6637 with a pre-filter wrap on it will provide adequate air to the engine while providing adequate filtration of said air.
The noise was a factor as well as I don't care for turbo whine drowning out the life happening around me. Although, the SXE is quiet enough that even with an open air filter like the 6637, the noise is still very comparable to the what the modified stock turbo was pushing out with the noise cancelling properties of the AIS.
Each truck is different, even if they were built identical to each other nearly 20 years ago. You have to do what is right for you, your goals and use of the truck.
Do you have large/upgraded injectors since you plan to install a 366/369?
Does the SX-E clean up the smoke down lower in the RPM band? I have a modded stock turbo that works really well with my 160's but it is very smoky until the turbo lights at 2,000 RPM.
It does do a good job of cleaning up smoke. I have a couple of friends running this turbo with bigger injectors. They have 160/30, 180/80 and 200/30 and all of them have great results out of the SXE turbo.
Even my stock 250,000 mile AD injectors on a hot tune do not smoke.
I hope this helps and answers your question.
@@LivingOurDream, it does answer my question, indeed. Thank you for the response!
@@diymechanictv1233 You are very welcome. If you have any further questions or concerns, feel free to ask and I will do my best to address them.
Why wouldn't the gasket be a divided T4 a gasket?
I apologize for the late reply.
It seems that there are two gaskets for the T4 flange to turbo union. One is for the open flange and the other is for the split flange. This is on the turbo itself, not the flange from the T4 kit builder. Borg Warner calls these flanges "open flow" or "twin flow". The T4 turbo I have is of the open flow design.
I hope this helps.
Can you answer why you chose the csd kit vs irate diesel kit.
I apologize for the late reply.
Hopefully you sorted out your question by now, but in case you haven't...
I preferred the turbo oil drain method of the CSD kit over the Irate kit. That and a couple of other 7.3L owners I chat with every once in a while had the CSD kit, so I was a bit more familiar with it.
I need the factory short black tube that bolts to the turbo.
How much$?
407ForRent, please send me a private message here on RUclips or on the www.ford-trucks.com forums. My username on the forums is Sous. Maybe we can work something out to get you set back up, but I don't think posting personal information here is a good idea.
I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Non-wastegated? How is that
I apologize for the late reply.
It is great! No need to waste boost if the system is designed to utilize it properly.
Below is a video link where I provide a visual of the results of a 363 SX-E I installed.
Link: ruclips.net/video/Q63q73mEEoA/видео.html
Do you have the wastegate kit installed as well?
I apologize for the late reply. We have been traveling and away from my PC.
I do not have a wastegate on the SXE turbo.
Sorry if you mentioned this in the video but how much would this setup run me $ wise?
Fizzi, no problem!
Starting at 1:10 in the video I have a parts breakdown listing. I broke this listing down even further and listed the "required" parts in the list on the left and the parts that were required and "optional" in the list on the right.
Depending on if you sold the take off parts like the up-pipes and GTP38 stock turbo, the kit should cost you anywhere from $1400 to $2200.
If you look closely at the lists I have noted the parts I purchased, then the parts I sold and what they were bought and sold for.
I have heard that the CSD T4 kit went up by $100, but cannot confirm that. I also know that the Borg Warner SXE fluctuates a lot on price. I bought the SXE turbo for ~$730, but have seen it below $600 since then. It really depends on the retailer and deals or sales they are offering at the time.
I will tell you this... I have 254,000 miles on my stock injectors and this turbo made the truck run better than new. We pulled our 12,000 lbs 5th wheel from GA to PA and back through the mountains and it held 65 MPH at 2000 RPM even up the grades. No downshifting or cruise control canceling itself due to loss of speed.
I wish I had done this years ago, but live and learn!
Living Our Dream thank you very much. Looking at a truck with similar mods was just wandering how much he payed for it.
@@fizzi5836 No problem at all. Let me know if you have any further questions or concerns.
2400. I just bought irates kit with a sxe 366
Is this a 4 inch exhaust? And does it have a muffler?
I installed a 4" turbo back MBRP (S6200P) exhaust with muffler in 2015. The down pipe included with the CSD T4 kit is 3.5". I mated the 3.5" down pipe to the 4" MBRP exhaust with muffler intact.
I hope this helps.
@@LivingOurDream awesome I am in the middle of installing an s366 in my 7.3 using the same kit but mine is a 5 inch straight pipe I’m really excited to hear this monster
@@gregshue645 I hope you are pleased with the sound and performance once you are done! Keep me updated if you like and post a link to a video if you create one.
@@LivingOurDream I will for sure, your video was my instructions for the whole job it made it a breeze
@@gregshue645 Sounds good and I am very grateful the video was helpful for you.
That was a lot of work.....
Yes and no from my viewpoint. Most of those parts I had either replaced with updated parts or newer parts due to the age of the truck or looking for more efficiency out of the truck.
For example, the up-pipes I had replaced with bellowed up-pipes. The turbo I have had off to install a billet compressor wheel and high flow outlet.
So, yes it was a lot of work, but it was all "bolt on parts" that I had removed and installed in the past.
Thanks for watching!
Wanna sell your old intake???
I sold the AIS intake before I even had the SXE installed! The AIS was/is a good intake though, so if you are thinking about it, let me assure you that it is a good addition.