Hi Andy, I enjoyed your video. I noticed that the "presser bar lifter hinge stud" (#15486) on my machine was a little bit different from yours. On mine, there was a small machined flat on the stud and on yours there was a machined recess around the circumference of the stud. I marked the small end of the stud with a Sharpie so that I could tell when the machined flat was aligned with the set screw to lock it in place.
Considering how many versions of the 15 Singer made I guess I'm not surprised. I appreciate you sharing this info and I'll pin the comment in case others find what you did and wonder what's going on. Thanks for watching.
What I love about Andy’s videos on these classics is that these videos will be available for years to come for future lovers of these fantastic mechanical marvels. Thank you for passing your knowledge on, Andy!
I just purchased a 15-91 with the gorgeous scroll face on it. I'm brand spanking new to sewing and although my new baby is gorgeous, it is extremely dirty inside and the parts also. I was looking for tips and now that I see what you have done here, very nice description by the way, I think I will attempt the complete conditioning myself. I am 70 and now feel confidently up to the challenge thanks to your oh, so lovely, in detail instruction. Once again, thanks so much, Andy!
It was Such a blessing finding your channel. I recently acquired a 401a and have also rescued my Grandmother’s 15-90. After it was neglected. Your videos have been a tremendous help in learning the care, maintenance, and troubleshooting of both machines. Much gratitude
Very much enjoying this video series, Andy. So glad to see you back. You are an amazing teacher and you do so well filming all the details on the machines. You are a gift and a treasure to us in the vintage sewing machine world. I have learned so much from you. Your wife will surely enjoy the beautiful 15-91 when you are finished restoring it. 👏
Hey, thanks very much. I'm blushing here 😊There are many people posting VSM repair now, so I'm honored you watch my channel and feel this way. Well, my wife never watches my videos, haha. When I mention them she just asks if I'm finished with the machine. She told me yesterday she already has her first project cut out and waiting. Take care.
Hi Andy, first thanks so much for all your informative videos. My family think I am mad because I love these old machines so much! Just a quick question about the washer, mine appears to be missing. I was very careful when taking out the spring so I am sure it did not fly away. Do you happen to know what size washer I could use as a replacement. Thanks again Andy X
Thanks for the comment. I have the 50-page parts manual showing that washer as part No. 2070 "Presser Bar Spring Washer". Sorry, they do not list the size of the washers in their manuals. To buy a vintage one you usually have to buy the bar/spring parts, like this: oldsingershop.com/collections/singer-class-15-sewing-machine-parts-1 Too expensive for sure. I've had luck going to a local hardware store (not big box type) and bringing the other parts with me. One local Ace store even drilled the hole in a washer a little larger to fit the bolt I needed it for.
I'm so glad you are back. Missed you. A couple of days ago I watched your videos on Lola and finally finished fixing up one of my 221s. I was nervous about touching the motor. I used the eraser on the commutator and it is running beautifully now. I have a couple of 15s so I will be excited to follow your new series and fix them up too. Thank you for your expertise.
Oh, good job! If you've never worked on a motor like that it can be intimidating so I've glad you push on and did it. It's rewarding to have the machine working nicely when you've finished maintenance on it. I do hope you'll enjoy the "Ike" series.
Hi Andy - thanks for these videos, I'm refurbing a 1937 15-91 and they are VERY helpful! Regarding the reddish scoring on the lifter arm, it's probably copper. IIRC, when plating steel, you generally copper plate first, then plate with chrome, nickel, etc. Looks to me like it's worn through the chrome down to the copper.
Hi Andy Upon your suggestion I bought a 15-91 in excellent shape for $45. It sews 1.2mm upholstery leather like a champ. I used a regular 14 needle and common sewing thread and it's easy. Guess heavier thread like #69 would be ok too. This is proof positive that older and heavier is better. Thanks so much!!
That that's a very good price for that model I'm happy it worked out for you with regular maintenance that machine can go your lifetime they do make needles for leather that have a blade tip instead of a pointed tip leather workers I know say they prefer that they also say they use the smallest needle that will make a pretty stitch on whichever leather they're working with happy sewing my friend
Thank you for this video; it’s so helpful, nicely paced and clear. A totally solid presser bar (not hollow)- interesting! The needle bar looks solid, too. Question: Why did you use F3 felt cord (85% wool) versus F1 (95% wool) from McMaster-Carr for the thumb screw plug? Your cord looks gray, so I’m assuming you did use the 85%; the 95% is white.
Hi, Carole 😉Yes, correct. Gray = 85%, white = 95%. I have a friend who recommended it on this machine, other than for the grease wicks. He worked maintenance for 34 years on printing press equipment. He told me the 85% is denser and lasts longer but still lets oil flow well. His parts suppliers advised him to try it years ago because the equipment used so much of it and it costs a little less also. He said he probably used a mile of wicking during his career on the moving parts of a press, including "rollers & lifters. That's why I tried it. It does feel denser than the white, but I think you can use the white if you have it or prefer it. A sewing machine is a lot different than a huge printing (newspaper) setup. He did say a snug fit is better than a looser fit. P.S. I use my electric flashlight a lot with this machine! Thanks again for that.
Thanks, Andy for this useful and valuable information. I’m going to use the F1(95%) wick material. We have some 3/16” and 1/8” of the white stuff. I’ve messed about with it, and if I make the plug out of two diameters of the 3/16” and one diameter of the 1/8”, it fits nice and snug into the thumb screw. I haven’t pre-soaked the wicks in oil yet; I hope they still fit after soaking. I’m so pleased to see you use the electric flashlight; it really does help us viewers see what you see.
@@carolemagnusson5044 It's a great solution! The F1 is softer and more compressible. I just used it to replace a missing wick on the Oscillating Rock Shaft because all other wicks were too difficult to get inside and then poke a loop out the drip hole. (More on that in a future video.) Your wicks will be fine after adding oil. I mean they do not swell up and it's been my experience they still hold oil and let it migrate even when compressed. They don't hold as much oil, but we only use a drop or two on a normal basis anyway.
Thank you Andy for another great video! Aaaaand - the Mystery of the Hollows is solved, only to learn that there are more wicky mysteries afoot! My 201 model has a felt plug in its pressure adjusting screw too and it was the very devil itself to get out - they really did have it wedged in almost impossibly tight. I can't help but think that in the factories they had some special tool to help do the job. (Oh - don't you wish you could meet someone who worked in one of those old factories - especially someone who, perhaps, worked on various different jobs in the assembly process?) I'm really looking forward to the next instalment, these are quite fascinating machines.
Mystery of the Hollows 😂 I love your humor, Megan! Oh, Yes, I'd love to make a video speaking to someone who actually worked at the factory building these machines. So much knowledge and experience fading away. I guess it was the same for horse buggies. Thanks for watching and keep an eye open for more felt plugs and wicks!
Andy Tube, I can’t thank you enough for your excellent videos! You are so thorough and you explain so well that even I can understand everything. (That in itself is no minor feat!) I’m especially excited to see these videos on my favorite machine: the Singer 15-91. I own a 1934 model and a 1951 one. I’ve already removed and cleaned every part on the newer model but now I have to screw up my courage to rewire the motor. The rubber coating had completely “melted” away and the bare wires were exposed. Any chance you would show us how to service the potted motor of the 15-91?
Thanks very much for your kind words. It's nice you have two different decade versions of the 15-91. Yes, I hope to service the motor eventually. I've never worked on a potted motor, so I'm researching it and have emailed friends to get their input for methods. Just working my way thru the different parts assemblies when I'm having a good day. Thanks for watching. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 - I sure wish I could bring my machine to your house and sit next to you as you work on yours so I could do the same thing and ask you questions and learn as I service each part. What an incredible wealth of knowledge you impart with each and every session. Thank you for being so generous with your time, knowledge, and skill. Just think of the thousands of folks who will benefit from what you are doing - decades after we are all gone. Wow! What a legacy!
Hey Andy, I have question… I really want to start using industrial presser foot with this machine (compensating foot to be specific), would you recommend me adjusting the height of the bar in order to fit the taller feet or should I avoid the procedure completely???
So I had to look up "Compensating presser foot" to see what it is. To your question, the machines are made for certain tolerances, and model 15-91 is a "low" or "straight" shank model vs a "slant shank" like the 401A. You'd have to experiment to see if you could do it. Like if the foot would center over the hole in the needle plate properly. Could you still adjust the pressure properly? Would the needle clamp housing hit the presser foot in any way? Could you still get the normal "lift" of the foot using the existing lifting lever? If the purpose of the foot is to guide the fabric to be able to sew a seam very close to the right edge of the fabric couldn't you just use an adjustable seam guide? Almost every vintage Singer had two threaded holes to the right of the needle for attaching a seam guide and other accessories, including the model 15 series. The "kit" that came with the machines included a seam guide in most cases and you can buy them, new and vintage in several styles, all over the internet stores. Here is a "T-Style guide newly made similar to what Mom used for many years.: www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Gauge-Guide-Screws/dp/B018ZLBVVW/ref=sr_1_2?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mtBBNcwDcexbf_NVSPfFI7yEZej5AjkgwcX8x0313u4.bToRUkd2_SzFXIff0uoCowqtlITPMEF3biYMdGwxR2c&dib_tag=se&keywords=seam+guide&m=A1KNA07MS3D09K&qid=1705201406&s=merchant-items&sr=1-2
Can you offer a link to your Canadian friend with the 3D gauge? Your videos are so helpful. I'm encouraged to take apart my very loved and worn off nickel plated treadle 15. Thank you for these thorough videos.🙂
Thanks for watching my channel, Robin. Terry emailed me last week that he is sending me a few of the gauges and asked me to be the one to mail them to those who asked. It's easier for him that way. If you'd like one you can contact me at andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for one. I'll flag your email so when the gauges arrive we can work out the details. Take care.
Be very sure you thread the bobbin and needle correctly and insert the bobbin in the correct direction. Remove clean and inspect the hook for scratches and burrs: ruclips.net/video/uk2IL7iclHk/видео.html Be sure your thread goes between the tension discs on the tension unit and the tension unit is clean and free of lint or oil: ruclips.net/video/5B4KAwmKdEU/видео.html
So that means you can't raise the spring up then? The thumb screw threads are identified as an oiling place in the instruction manual. Over the years/decades, the oil may have built up and dried up around the top opening and the washer and spring. Dried oil is like glue or varnish and can make parts stick and be hard/unable to remove. I'm just guessing that's what you have there. You can try softening the oil a few ways. The least invasive is heat, like a hairdryer blowing down into the opening for a few minutes. You can try alcohol or a degreaser like Krud Kutter and drip it inside but you must - be careful to protect the black finish of the machine.*-* Remove the presser bar if you can and put a cup or similar under the bushing hole. Sometimes using a q-tip with the liquid is enough. Sometimes I plugged the hole with an old rag and used an eyedropper to fill up the bushing with KK and let it soak. You may have a hair dryer on hand and I'd try that before any liquids. Medium heat (care of the finish on the machine) and low airflow to start. Be patient as it can take a while to soften after how many years of being stuck. Does this help you? Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 okay. I will try all of that. then see what I can do. someone else recommended I remove the bracket first which is kinda stuk, by using impact putting a brick or block of wood under the pressure foot to then impact hammer like the presser down to get off the bracket then I will be able to remove the pole and the spring and screw will fall downward not upward. yes you are very helpful. thanks a lot. you help lots of people. :)
@@andytubesewing1953 I got it out. yay!! :) I did the impact with a hammer very lightly and put a thick rag under the pressre foot and it came off thank you
The copper is a layer deposited as part of the electroplating process. You could have that part replaced professionally or there are home plating kits available if you can’t find a used part in better condition. A little plating loss on a 70 year old machine is a testament to how well they were built. Your 201 will still be going after millions of plastic machines have expired.
@@tonyray91 Thanks for sharing this info, Tony. FOr sure the part is in better condition than I was at that age, haha. I've worked the machine and the presser bar system a number of times and it works flawlessly. The wear on the lifter lever does not show on the outside so I am happy to keep the part on the machine. I restore my machines to be put back in service, but a number of collectors what my channel and will be interested in that info. I've had three send me emails asking what I have learned and what I'll be doing with the lever so they will be pleased when I send them a copy of your link. I know one for sure who will be interested in a home plating kit as he loves that kind of endeavor. Thanks for watching my channel, and take care.
Le modèle 15K30 a les mêmes pièces de barre de pression que mon 15-91 et vous l'ajustez de la même manière et à la même hauteur. Le modèle 191B a été fabriqué dans l'usine de Singer à Bonnières, en France. Considérez-le comme un modèle 15 avec de nouveaux vêtements. Bien qu'il ait un support de guidage de style plus récent, il a toujours la vis de serrage dans le support qui maintient la barre, donc vous desserrez cette vis et changez la hauteur de la barre et serrez la vis. Je n'ai aucun dossier à vérifier ici aux États-Unis pour le modèle 191B, mais le réglage de la hauteur doit être le même ou très similaire au réglage de 7,54 mm.
it looked as though you put the needle in with the flat side to the right.? . Min. mark "40:53".. doesn't the flat side go to the left?? and then the needle is threaded from right to left.? I actually bought a 15-91 from a guy , and he had the needle in the wrong way, I put the needle in the correct way when I got the machine home.. but the foot was just a touch out of wack, I bet that is why the foot was out of wack by just a tiny bit, he was trying to clear the needle on the little toe, but the needle was in wrong.. thanks now I know why my foot is a touch out of wack.. edited for a typo/misspelled word. 😆
Good eye, Connie. You are correct. Funny that with 65 comments on this video, you are the only one to mention it. I'll bet you are correct about the foot position too. Thanks for letting me know, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 haha,, I don't miss much..I was looking for other comments about that. did not see any.. I recently found your channel. I really like the content on your channel.. it really helps, since I am quite new at tinkering with vintage singers. I've always liked mechanical things..I just subscribed.. Thank you Andy..
@@connieworcester55 I appreciate the subscription and if you catch any more mistakes don't hesitate to let me go because I appreciate that too. I tried to be careful but sometimes there's a lot of content moving fast
Another great video! I've got a vintage Husquavarna Nordic sewing machine and the presser foot is way too high and as a result not feeding properly. I believe it's a 1950's make. The last of the all metal machines that they made. I am at a loss as to how high to set the presser foot. Do you have a suggestion as to an approximate height? I realize that every machine has different specs but a close measurement would be nice.
Hi Andy, I enjoyed your video. I noticed that the "presser bar lifter hinge stud" (#15486) on my machine was a little bit different from yours. On mine, there was a small machined flat on the stud and on yours there was a machined recess around the circumference of the stud. I marked the small end of the stud with a Sharpie so that I could tell when the machined flat was aligned with the set screw to lock it in place.
Considering how many versions of the 15 Singer made I guess I'm not surprised. I appreciate you sharing this info and I'll pin the comment in case others find what you did and wonder what's going on. Thanks for watching.
What I love about Andy’s videos on these classics is that these videos will be available for years to come for future lovers of these fantastic mechanical marvels. Thank you for passing your knowledge on, Andy!
What a nice comment. Thank you. 🙏If my videos last half as long as these machines have I'll be a very happy guy.
What a blessing you are Andy!! Thank you!!!
I appreciate your comment.
I just purchased a 15-91 with the gorgeous scroll face on it. I'm brand spanking new to sewing and although my new baby is gorgeous, it is extremely dirty inside and the parts also. I was looking for tips and now that I see what you have done here, very nice description by the way, I think I will attempt the complete conditioning myself. I am 70 and now feel confidently up to the challenge thanks to your oh, so lovely, in detail instruction. Once again, thanks so much, Andy!
I know you can do it. It's a rewarding adventure and the machine is worthy of it. Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Using 4 quarters to set the presser bar height makes perfect cents. Awesome Andy.
😆 Yes, a buck to set the bar. Thanks for watching.
I'm getting hooked on these videos , im learning so much about my machine through your teachings. So nice to get a more intimate knowledge
The engineering and build are impressive. One of the best models I've worked on. Finding all the wool felt oil wicks was like a treasure hunt.
It was Such a blessing finding your channel. I recently acquired a 401a and have also rescued my Grandmother’s 15-90. After it was neglected. Your videos have been a tremendous help in learning the care, maintenance, and troubleshooting of both machines. Much gratitude
Thanks for keeping those machines in service, esp. Grandmother's 15-90. Family machines are wonderful. I appreciate your kind comment. Thank you.
Very much enjoying this video series, Andy. So glad to see you back. You are an amazing teacher and you do so well filming all the details on the machines. You are a gift and a treasure to us in the vintage sewing machine world. I have learned so much from you. Your wife will surely enjoy the beautiful 15-91 when you are finished restoring it. 👏
Hey, thanks very much. I'm blushing here 😊There are many people posting VSM repair now, so I'm honored you watch my channel and feel this way. Well, my wife never watches my videos, haha. When I mention them she just asks if I'm finished with the machine. She told me yesterday she already has her first project cut out and waiting. Take care.
This video helped me adjust the presser bar and foot on my Eurika 15-90 clone. Many thanks from western Colorado!
Happy you found the video. Thanks for sharing the info.
Hi Andy, first thanks so much for all your informative videos. My family think I am mad because I love these old machines so much! Just a quick question about the washer, mine appears to be missing. I was very careful when taking out the spring so I am sure it did not fly away. Do you happen to know what size washer I could use as a replacement. Thanks again Andy X
Thanks for the comment. I have the 50-page parts manual showing that washer as part No. 2070 "Presser Bar Spring Washer". Sorry, they do not list the size of the washers in their manuals. To buy a vintage one you usually have to buy the bar/spring parts, like this: oldsingershop.com/collections/singer-class-15-sewing-machine-parts-1
Too expensive for sure. I've had luck going to a local hardware store (not big box type) and bringing the other parts with me. One local Ace store even drilled the hole in a washer a little larger to fit the bolt I needed it for.
I'm so glad you are back. Missed you. A couple of days ago I watched your videos on Lola and finally finished fixing up one of my 221s. I was nervous about touching the motor. I used the eraser on the commutator and it is running beautifully now. I have a couple of 15s so I will be excited to follow your new series and fix them up too. Thank you for your expertise.
Oh, good job! If you've never worked on a motor like that it can be intimidating so I've glad you push on and did it. It's rewarding to have the machine working nicely when you've finished maintenance on it. I do hope you'll enjoy the "Ike" series.
Hi Andy - thanks for these videos, I'm refurbing a 1937 15-91 and they are VERY helpful! Regarding the reddish scoring on the lifter arm, it's probably copper. IIRC, when plating steel, you generally copper plate first, then plate with chrome, nickel, etc. Looks to me like it's worn through the chrome down to the copper.
I appreciate your verification and education about these metals. Thanks for taking time to share about it on my comment section. 🙏 Take care.
I used this video to clean and reinstall the presser bar in my 15-91!
Great video. I did it all on the 15-91 that I just got. I can't wait for the rest of your series when you take apart and clean other components.
Thank you. The next video will be on the Feed Regulator System. Thank you for watching, Sue. 🙏
Hi Andy
Upon your suggestion I bought a 15-91 in excellent shape for $45.
It sews 1.2mm upholstery leather like a champ. I used a regular 14 needle and common sewing thread and it's easy. Guess heavier thread like #69 would be ok too.
This is proof positive that older and heavier is better.
Thanks so much!!
That that's a very good price for that model I'm happy it worked out for you with regular maintenance that machine can go your lifetime they do make needles for leather that have a blade tip instead of a pointed tip leather workers I know say they prefer that they also say they use the smallest needle that will make a pretty stitch on whichever leather they're working with happy sewing my friend
Andy you are the best!
This was so helpful, thank you!
😃
I would buy a sewing machine from you anytime. Because you take great care in fixing and cleaning them.
That's kind of you to say so. Did you have a particular module in mind?
Thank you for this video; it’s so helpful, nicely paced and clear. A totally solid presser bar (not hollow)- interesting! The needle bar looks solid, too. Question: Why did you use F3 felt cord (85% wool) versus F1 (95% wool) from McMaster-Carr for the thumb screw plug? Your cord looks gray, so I’m assuming you did use the 85%; the 95% is white.
Hi, Carole 😉Yes, correct. Gray = 85%, white = 95%. I have a friend who recommended it on this machine, other than for the grease wicks. He worked maintenance for 34 years on printing press equipment. He told me the 85% is denser and lasts longer but still lets oil flow well. His parts suppliers advised him to try it years ago because the equipment used so much of it and it costs a little less also. He said he probably used a mile of wicking during his career on the moving parts of a press, including "rollers & lifters. That's why I tried it. It does feel denser than the white, but I think you can use the white if you have it or prefer it. A sewing machine is a lot different than a huge printing (newspaper) setup. He did say a snug fit is better than a looser fit. P.S. I use my electric flashlight a lot with this machine! Thanks again for that.
Thanks, Andy for this useful and valuable information. I’m going to use the F1(95%) wick material. We have some 3/16” and 1/8” of the white stuff. I’ve messed about with it, and if I make the plug out of two diameters of the 3/16” and one diameter of the 1/8”, it fits nice and snug into the thumb screw. I haven’t pre-soaked the wicks in oil yet; I hope they still fit after soaking. I’m so pleased to see you use the electric flashlight; it really does help us viewers see what you see.
@@carolemagnusson5044 It's a great solution! The F1 is softer and more compressible. I just used it to replace a missing wick on the Oscillating Rock Shaft because all other wicks were too difficult to get inside and then poke a loop out the drip hole. (More on that in a future video.) Your wicks will be fine after adding oil. I mean they do not swell up and it's been my experience they still hold oil and let it migrate even when compressed. They don't hold as much oil, but we only use a drop or two on a normal basis anyway.
Thank you Andy for another great video!
Aaaaand - the Mystery of the Hollows is solved, only to learn that there are more wicky mysteries afoot! My 201 model has a felt plug in its pressure adjusting screw too and it was the very devil itself to get out - they really did have it wedged in almost impossibly tight. I can't help but think that in the factories they had some special tool to help do the job. (Oh - don't you wish you could meet someone who worked in one of those old factories - especially someone who, perhaps, worked on various different jobs in the assembly process?)
I'm really looking forward to the next instalment, these are quite fascinating machines.
Mystery of the Hollows 😂 I love your humor, Megan! Oh, Yes, I'd love to make a video speaking to someone who actually worked at the factory building these machines. So much knowledge and experience fading away. I guess it was the same for horse buggies. Thanks for watching and keep an eye open for more felt plugs and wicks!
Andy Tube, I can’t thank you enough for your excellent videos! You are so thorough and you explain so well that even I can understand everything. (That in itself is no minor feat!)
I’m especially excited to see these videos on my favorite machine: the Singer 15-91. I own a 1934 model and a 1951 one. I’ve already removed and cleaned every part on the newer model but now I have to screw up my courage to rewire the motor. The rubber coating had completely “melted” away and the bare wires were exposed.
Any chance you would show us how to service the potted motor of the 15-91?
Thanks very much for your kind words. It's nice you have two different decade versions of the 15-91. Yes, I hope to service the motor eventually. I've never worked on a potted motor, so I'm researching it and have emailed friends to get their input for methods. Just working my way thru the different parts assemblies when I'm having a good day. Thanks for watching. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 - I sure wish I could bring my machine to your house and sit next to you as you work on yours so I could do the same thing and ask you questions and learn as I service each part. What an incredible wealth of knowledge you impart with each and every session.
Thank you for being so generous with your time, knowledge, and skill. Just think of the thousands of folks who will benefit from what you are doing - decades after we are all gone. Wow! What a legacy!
@@kathy_funk That's very kind of you. Thank you. No doubt the machine will continue to work long after I do. A nice thought.
Hi Andy, thanks für this nice Video. Take care.
Thanks very much for commenting. You two, friend.
Hey Andy, I have question… I really want to start using industrial presser foot with this machine (compensating foot to be specific), would you recommend me adjusting the height of the bar in order to fit the taller feet or should I avoid the procedure completely???
So I had to look up "Compensating presser foot" to see what it is.
To your question, the machines are made for certain tolerances, and model 15-91 is a "low" or "straight" shank model vs a "slant shank" like the 401A.
You'd have to experiment to see if you could do it. Like if the foot would center over the hole in the needle plate properly.
Could you still adjust the pressure properly? Would the needle clamp housing hit the presser foot in any way?
Could you still get the normal "lift" of the foot using the existing lifting lever?
If the purpose of the foot is to guide the fabric to be able to sew a seam very close to the right edge of the fabric couldn't you just use an adjustable seam guide? Almost every vintage Singer had two threaded holes to the right of the needle for attaching a seam guide and other accessories, including the model 15 series. The "kit" that came with the machines included a seam guide in most cases and you can buy them, new and vintage in several styles, all over the internet stores.
Here is a "T-Style guide newly made similar to what Mom used for many years.: www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Gauge-Guide-Screws/dp/B018ZLBVVW/ref=sr_1_2?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mtBBNcwDcexbf_NVSPfFI7yEZej5AjkgwcX8x0313u4.bToRUkd2_SzFXIff0uoCowqtlITPMEF3biYMdGwxR2c&dib_tag=se&keywords=seam+guide&m=A1KNA07MS3D09K&qid=1705201406&s=merchant-items&sr=1-2
Wonderful video. Thank you.
thanks for watching, Maria. Take care.
Can you offer a link to your Canadian friend with the 3D gauge?
Your videos are so helpful. I'm encouraged to take apart my very loved and worn off nickel plated treadle 15. Thank you for these thorough videos.🙂
Thanks for watching my channel, Robin. Terry emailed me last week that he is sending me a few of the gauges and asked me to be the one to mail them to those who asked. It's easier for him that way. If you'd like one you can contact me at andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for one. I'll flag your email so when the gauges arrive we can work out the details. Take care.
Robin, I received some of the gauges from my friend today, 11/9/21 so email me if you are still interested. They are free while they last. Thanks.
@@andytubesewing1953 please look for my email. THANK YOU!
@@robinr6399 It's here 🙂
Dear Andy please make a video on vintage singer 298 classic fashion maker
Sorry I can not help you with that. Model 298 was made in the late 1970s in Taiwan and I've never even seen one or have access to a service manual.
298 is literally the same machine with 224 and 238 with only cosmetic differences.
Good Stuff
Thanks, Joe. Not as good as your hot chicks playlist, 👀but my video is helpful. Thanks for watching.
My top thread are all caught , bundled, on the shuttle hook. Each cycle just wont go up with the bottom thread. Any suggestions?
Be very sure you thread the bobbin and needle correctly and insert the bobbin in the correct direction. Remove clean and inspect the hook for scratches and burrs: ruclips.net/video/uk2IL7iclHk/видео.html Be sure your thread goes between the tension discs on the tension unit and the tension unit is clean and free of lint or oil: ruclips.net/video/5B4KAwmKdEU/видео.html
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks andy
@@prankeinstein8637 Good luck.
Hi Andy, I cant seem to get my washer out through the hole. any sugestions?
So that means you can't raise the spring up then? The thumb screw threads are identified as an oiling place in the instruction manual. Over the years/decades, the oil may have built up and dried up around the top opening and the washer and spring. Dried oil is like glue or varnish and can make parts stick and be hard/unable to remove. I'm just guessing that's what you have there. You can try softening the oil a few ways. The least invasive is heat, like a hairdryer blowing down into the opening for a few minutes. You can try alcohol or a degreaser like Krud Kutter and drip it inside but you must - be careful to protect the black finish of the machine.*-* Remove the presser bar if you can and put a cup or similar under the bushing hole. Sometimes using a q-tip with the liquid is enough. Sometimes I plugged the hole with an old rag and used an eyedropper to fill up the bushing with KK and let it soak. You may have a hair dryer on hand and I'd try that before any liquids. Medium heat (care of the finish on the machine) and low airflow to start. Be patient as it can take a while to soften after how many years of being stuck. Does this help you? Good Luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 okay. I will try all of that. then see what I can do. someone else recommended I remove the bracket first which is kinda stuk, by using impact putting a brick or block of wood under the pressure foot to then impact hammer like the presser down to get off the bracket then I will be able to remove the pole and the spring and screw will fall downward not upward. yes you are very helpful. thanks a lot. you help lots of people. :)
@@loversoftruthlovecorrection855 oh boy. Good luck then.
@@andytubesewing1953 I got it out. yay!! :) I did the impact with a hammer very lightly and put a thick rag under the pressre foot and it came off thank you
@@loversoftruthlovecorrection855 Thanks for sharing that the method worked! I'm happy you can move on now. Good luck.
The presser bar lifter lever on my early 50's Singer 201-2 has lost all its nickel plating and is now coppery color.
Man, I wonder how many millions of times that lever was lifted? How many miles of fabric were sewn on your machine. Thanks for watching.
The copper is a layer deposited as part of the electroplating process. You could have that part replaced professionally or there are home plating kits available if you can’t find a used part in better condition. A little plating loss on a 70 year old machine is a testament to how well they were built. Your 201 will still be going after millions of plastic machines have expired.
@@tonyray91 Thanks for sharing this info, Tony. FOr sure the part is in better condition than I was at that age, haha. I've worked the machine and the presser bar system a number of times and it works flawlessly. The wear on the lifter lever does not show on the outside so I am happy to keep the part on the machine. I restore my machines to be put back in service, but a number of collectors what my channel and will be interested in that info. I've had three send me emails asking what I have learned and what I'll be doing with the lever so they will be pleased when I send them a copy of your link. I know one for sure who will be interested in a home plating kit as he loves that kind of endeavor. Thanks for watching my channel, and take care.
J ai une 15k30 et 191b comment ajusté hauteur exacte
Le modèle 15K30 a les mêmes pièces de barre de pression que mon 15-91 et vous l'ajustez de la même manière et à la même hauteur. Le modèle 191B a été fabriqué dans l'usine de Singer à Bonnières, en France. Considérez-le comme un modèle 15 avec de nouveaux vêtements. Bien qu'il ait un support de guidage de style plus récent, il a toujours la vis de serrage dans le support qui maintient la barre, donc vous desserrez cette vis et changez la hauteur de la barre et serrez la vis. Je n'ai aucun dossier à vérifier ici aux États-Unis pour le modèle 191B, mais le réglage de la hauteur doit être le même ou très similaire au réglage de 7,54 mm.
it looked as though you put the needle in with the flat side to the right.? . Min. mark "40:53".. doesn't the flat side go to the left?? and then the needle is threaded from right to left.? I actually bought a 15-91 from a guy , and he had the needle in the wrong way, I put the needle in the correct way when I got the machine home.. but the foot was just a touch out of wack, I bet that is why the foot was out of wack by just a tiny bit, he was trying to clear the needle on the little toe, but the needle was in wrong.. thanks now I know why my foot is a touch out of wack.. edited for a typo/misspelled word. 😆
Good eye, Connie. You are correct. Funny that with 65 comments on this video, you are the only one to mention it. I'll bet you are correct about the foot position too. Thanks for letting me know, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 haha,, I don't miss much..I was looking for other comments about that. did not see any.. I recently found your channel. I really like the content on your channel.. it really helps, since I am quite new at tinkering with vintage singers. I've always liked mechanical things..I just subscribed.. Thank you Andy..
@@connieworcester55 I appreciate the subscription and if you catch any more mistakes don't hesitate to let me go because I appreciate that too. I tried to be careful but sometimes there's a lot of content moving fast
Another great video! I've got a vintage Husquavarna Nordic sewing machine and the presser foot is way too high and as a result not feeding properly. I believe it's a 1950's make. The last of the all metal machines that they made. I am at a loss as to how high to set the presser foot. Do you have a suggestion as to an approximate height? I realize that every machine has different specs but a close measurement would be nice.