I still remember my father and mother plus a good friend building a small Märklin layout in 1960 for Santa Claus ( on the 6th of Dec ). We still have all the equipment and my brother is still running the loco's of that time period. So watching this video brings back all the happy memories of my childhood and the love from my parents. The 'microbe' my father planted is still alive and running on my present layout under construction "The AnneliesVille RR". Père Albert is a station on the layout named after my beloved father. Thanks very much for sharing Martin !!
For the LED, you can use the ultra tiny SMD 0402 LED. You just need to buy the precabled ones, a bit more expansive, but a lot more easy to use. These will fit any place.
There are MS4 type LEDs that DO work in the switches. There is also another alternative to power them (regardless of bulb type). When using DCC, a separate DC power supply can be used to power the lamp, whereby the lamp (+), which is also the switch coil common, is directly connected to the DC (+), and the power supply DC (-) is tied to the track bed. I am using this arrangement with ESU SwitchPilot decoders and it works fine. For those familiar with these turnout decoders, I am providing the auxiliary DC power to the decoders and using the common coil output (+) for lamp power. The auxiliary DC (-) is simply tied to the DCC track bed side. I don't have personal experience with the M83 decoder, but looking at it online, it does not seem to have separate power inputs, and that seems limiting. The ESU SwitchPilot CAN be powered from the track, but in the above described configuration (auxiliary power), it only uses the track power to obtain the DCC signal. The DCC power is isolated from the auxiliary power. Hope this helps.
When I was working on an old Hammond organ, it was recommended to me that I use a product called "DEOXIT" on all of the contacts to maintain continuity and reliability. It's not cheap! A 5 oz. can costs about $20 (US). On top of my computer hutch cabinet I have some N gauge track with an HOe locomotive and some cars. I just touch a 9 volt battery to the rails to test it. I kept having to clean the track often. So, I decided to try the Deoxit. I took a dried out alcohol prep pad and moistened it with the Deoxit then wiped the rails with it. I've had NO problems since! On the can it reads: "F-series Deoxit Fader F5"
Great Video ! I have a small Märklin "M" layout, say about 3 X 3m (I am sitting in the center of the layout). My trains are running digital on the old M-rails, without any problems. All switches and signals are driven by "analogue" transformers. I have also installed the M-Catenery on my layout. An "analogue" transformer provides "analogue" electricity to the M-Catenery. So, my Old Electrical (Catenery) Analogue Märklin trains are running TOGETHER with my new digital trains on the M-tracks. Thanks again for the intresting Video ! Greetz, Roger.
Thank you very much for these comments on M-track etc. I was considering the use of M-track in the shadow station and will start experimenting with this. I will keep you noted. Thanks a lot. Peter
I have heaps of this track as I used to have a large Marklin Layout, and have always thought it a great track. Used to get it here in NZ from a company called the lamp house (if memory serves me correctly) as an uncle of mine was associated with it. Still, think it is a great model for people to start with and enjoy. Regards Kevin.
Although not relevant to my layout, still however informative and entertaining. Thanks. I am sure you made a lot of European hobbyists happy. See ya next time.
Another great video! I like converting older locomotives over to dcc myself as well. I was surprised at how many options of track there is for Marklin equipment. Pretty cool! Take care, Ben
You can bypass the lights in the switches to connect them to an analog power circuit. In that way it doesn't use power from your digital system anymore. I have no experience with M-track but the older generation K-track has a similar system.
Hi from Germany! Thank you for the interesting video! By the way: there were bigger radi and nicer switches in the M-System available. It was called "Modellgleis" but was only available some years in the 1950s. Today, these tracks are quite expensive on ebay, mostly the switches and the curved tracks.
Good to hear! I have an excess of 50pcs M-switches type 5202 in my layout. Some of them has now been operated more than 100k times and still works perfect!
@@marklinofsweden I have the same switch ;) The power consumption of the lights can be addressed by powering it with an additional accessory transformer, and using a common ground between accessory trafo and the digital control station (only connected once) - this works reliability with the ECOS and the SwitchPilot v2.
Hi, the connector for C-Track you showed is only for use with the elder MS1. The MS2 (Mobile Station 2) needs another connextionbox called Gleisbox 60113 of 60116. When using a Central Station type 2 or 3 you kan still use the MS1 with an adaptercable as an extra trottle. Further more the CS2 an CS3 and MS2 are also capable with DCC digital format next to the Marklin type MM and MFX. Furthermore: Nice video once again. John
For converting to LED's for switch lighting you might try the Marklin "C" track switch light kit(74470). You would only need the light panel which is fairly small, and if you are using digital transformers I would think it should work nicely.
I have to give experience, because I dumped all my M-Tracks. Mostly for two reason: 1. It's extremely cumbersome to make feedback tracks for feedback sensors, or it becomes really expensive. 2. All lot of non Märklin rolling stock will have problem when running on these tracks. And never put ancient tracks in the underground. You want to use the most reliable tracks in the underground, to avoid unnecessary derailment. I heard of guy which had done that, and after a couple of year, he complete rebuild his shadow station with C-Track. Only use M-Track if you want to build a vintage layout.
Hi! Feedback is made by isolating the center rail and using s88 DC modules, or Digikeijs DR4088CS. I know some people I spoke to had probz with M-rail and therefore not use it in hidden areas. I have had trouble free operation for an excess of 10 years without even cleaning the tracks. This in a garage where the humidity and dust levels are.. not optimal.. Derailment is non-exsistent. Yes! DC-wheel set will not run through M-rail switches. This is very easy to fix by applying a strip of a beer can. It’s known as ”the tape-fix”.
Hello marklinofsweden, this is a super interesting and very sympathetic channel. 👍👍👍 I can learn a lot from you. .... please continue. 👍 I have just subscribed to the channel. Greetings from Austria
Very simple to replace the old bulb incandescent lamps, that run on A.C. with L.E.D. lamp!. You will need a current limiting resistor (330 ohms and size is 1/8 of a watt)and a diode. Diode (1N4007 Diode are a hundred of them for $5.00.) The diode is to change the AC to DC. Hook the diode & resistor in series with the LED (any color LED you want) to any one of the wires from the old lamp bulb. The components (resistor & diode) should be connected in series, to the anode of the LED lamp. The anode is the longer of the two leads of the L.E.D. lamp. That is the positive feed. That is it! Connect them in that way and you can use lots of LED lamps as they only conssume a fraction of the current of incandecent old bulbs. The other lead of the LED connects to remaing wire, that was provided from the old lamp bulb.
In Colorado, USA there is a company called Evan Designs, they have all kinds of LED's for model railroad use.........it is the place I got my LED's for my SD40-2 that I posted a video of in another video comment section.
I have a large Marklin layout mostly M track in New Zealand however I also use the cantanery system can I convert this to digital by taking the red wire to feed only it and still run anologe on the track
Great video. How do you minimize dust on your layout? Do you have some kind of air filter system in your layout room? How do you go about it removing dust without disturbing scenery? It might be a good topic for a video.
Nope. Märklin HO uses a 3-rail system. Märklin 1-scale and Z-scale use usual 2-rail system. AFAICS, the Bachmann E-Z Tracks use 3-rails only in O scale; Bachmann HO seem to use 2-rail system. One couldn't use Märklin HO locos or wagons on 2-rail tracks powered by the 2-rail system (ie. with the 2 rails supplying DC). On the other hand, I don't think there would be any problem using Märklin HO locos that can take the current from the catenary, on 2-rail tracks, where the two rails would be connected to the mass. However, if you are working with digital systems, this would have the inconvenient that the rails couldn't be used to transmit the digital signal to the turnouts and signals, you would have to use separate cables for them. And this would work only for electric loco models, not for diesel or steam loco. Also, if you have wagons using energy (for lighting or sound or other), they couldn't take it from the inexistant third rail, so it would have to be transmitted from the catenary take on the loco to the wagons thru the hooks. But this would make for a bit more of realism ;-) Note that Märklin also owns Trix which uses the 2-rail system, and Trix material can run on normal 2-rail tracks (they also have 2-rail tracks similar to the Märklin C-tracks). The wheels of the Märklin wagons can usually be replaced by isolated wheels to run them on Trix or other 2-rail systems.
Be aware: Märklin M Track is killing traction tires. When you start building a new layout, you probably be more satisfied with C Track or K Track from Märklin. Btw: I like your videos. Thanks a lot for this great content on RUclips!
Hi! I have run M-track layouts since 1976 and I have only once replaced traction tires on my locos. There must be something else which ruins yours.. Cleaning liquid on the track, or something?
@@marklinofsweden On my current layout I used K Track. But I had some issues with M track when I was running new Roco locos on a M track layout (not mine). But I think it might depend on the loco manufacturers or how old the model is.
Thanks for the vid! No info about extra importance of ground on M-rail? Regarding the lamps; I have found MS4 led warm wit 7331302 with leds-and-more, ca 15mA. Looking forward to the next video already! Cheers :)
what kind of power supply do you use for the m83 decoder. I am running ESU Switchpilots, I use an old märklin analogue trafo clamped to "direktion switching" as the power source, some switches dont switch without it turned to "direktion switching" . Well now after about 3 years of not playing with it. It overheats quiet fast and I need an alternative.
Hi Martin, Could you do a video on the Marklin K flex track? I'm looking for a tutorial on how to make a smooth s-curve with the Marklin K track. Also, any solder tips for the Marklin K track would be helpful.
kan du klargöra hyr det fungerar på en större digital anläggning med cs1 och boostrar. kablar däremellan. kan man använda 6021 som strömförsörjning ihop med cs1?
I have 20 M track turnouts on my layout. They are screwed down to a plywood base. My problem is: if I want to remove a piece of track or a turnout because of it being faulty, how much of the surrounding track do I have to remove before I can remove one target piece of track or turnout?
Love, Love, LOVE your videos - have learnt a lot and am slowly incorporating ideas as I develop a multi level M-track layout. Random unrelated question for you - why in the many many videos that I've watched (from many posters) have I never seen the catenary system actually used? Either the pantograph is up with no wires strung, or there is painstaking levels of detail included in the catenary - but the pantographs are not extended. Thank-you in advance
I even try out the LED´s for the switching-signs but... throw this idea away. I search on ebay for several LED´s, most of them dosn´t fit and if they fits, it is to shiny. So, dos it like you, put away any of them (65 M-switches) and save a lot of energy. The filtering condenser? Today, at times of modern techniques in our t.v.´s and modern internet, i think we dosn´t need them any more, except your neighbour is preparing to contact aliens with an old cb-station....
So the Marklin track is actually a 3 rail system, with the out side rail negative and the center rail is positive? Is the voltage direct current? Great video explaining your track system. Do you run programmed train routes with your DigiTrax system? Skol! Ron//
The Märkin track system is 16 V alternate current. The remote reverse system in the locos done by switching a relay activated by an overvoltage of about 20V, sent when pressing a button on the transformer. Other European 3 rail systems (like the French Jep one or the British Dublo until 1959) worked with "normal" direct current (20V for Jep), while the rest of European railwa modelling manufacturers used the H0 12V two tracks direct current system (Hornby, Tri-Ang, Jouef, Roco, Lima, etc. Fleischmann being in 14V.
Jean thank you for the clarification. But on the marklin track there are little raised points in the middle of the rails is that the positive and the outside rails are both negative?
@@baldypalmsrailroad Nope, because it's ac they switch poles. Inside the loco is a switching relais wich sends power to the forward coil or the reverse coil of the motor. It's tech from 1930's and super reliable. :))
@@baldypalmsrailroad This is AC, Alternating Current. So the 2 rails are the ground, 0V, and the center rail (raised points) vary alternatively between -16V and +16V. Well, in analog mode, the exact tension depends on the speed you want and vary periodically in a sinusoid with peaks at 20 V to send a reverse signal, an in digital mode, it's either -16V or +16V. ftp://ftp.informatimago.com/users/pjb/images/marklin-mfx.bmp
Hi!, I know that my cuestion isn´t about of this video, but I have an urgent cuestion. I want to do a diorama about night, but it´s a desert, so there´s not light (no traffic lights, no lantern), I want to know if I have to do the diorama as if it were day and then, when it is night, light up the estage somehow (and how?), or paint the diorama if it were night from the beginning ( I'm thinking of painting the sky and the sand of blues, purples and black). Please help me. Thank you very much.
I would probably use same colors as if I modeled a day scene and illuminate the diorama with hardlight (spotlight) blue/white LEDs. However.. If the diorama should look like night scene, even in bright daylight illumination. Coloring and shadows would have to be painted accordingly.
Hi, I am having crates full of M tracks here in Mumbai India. My problem is humidity and how to remove rust and dust from my tracks. I keep on applying M44 but that gives me temporary relief.
Hi,Viraf. I went over a heavy cleaning of dust and rust from a bunch of old M tracks that I'd stored for over 20 years. I went on a deep investigation all over forums, web pages, etc. and I tried more than 6 different ways of cleaning rust (even using Coca Cola!!!). What finally worked for me (mainly for heavy rusted Marklin M tracks) was: 1. soak in white vinegar the rusty parts. This can be done using an old small brush. It'll take out most of the rust 2. clean the track (except turnovers or uncoupling tracks that have electrical parts), sinking the whole track in lightly soapy warm water using a light tooth brush (under the water) to clean the track, don't be afraid, nothing will happen to the track! 3. dry the tracks with a hairdryer, putting the track vertically in order to let drain any moisture that could be inside the rails 4. last but not least, when dried, clean the rails and the center track with isopropyl alcohol. The track will be working almost perfectly The downside of the vinegar is that, for really heavy rusted tracks, will leave the rails with an orange looking where the rust was, but, it didn't harm the electrical operation, it's just visually odd. For turnouts, I did basically the same, just soaking in vinegar more carefully and cleaning with lightly soapy water using a small non fluff cloth If the rust already attacked the metal rails making small fissures or cracks, you'll need to sand those parts with the finest sandpaper you can find, (even though it is not recommendable at all) in order to remove the rust. The problem of doing this is that the sand paper leaves small near invisible cracks where dust will settle in the future, making electrical contact poor and also making cleaning track work more frequently. Irecover around 120 tracks using this method and worked fine for me. Hope it helps.
I forgot to say: for just heavy dust (not rusted), use lightly soapy warm water (as before) and then clean with isopropyl alcohol. It'll take out all the dust!
Dear Gustavo, thank you so much for your wonderful tips, I will start working upon it. My next task will be cleaning the wheels and contact shoes of about almost 150 vintage locomotives.
Hello Martin, you showed a lot of Märklin stuff... even if I think the Märklin models are good, I don't think that the digital equipment is good. And the cs2/3 is much too expensive and misses many features. I just want to say, that it's possible to use digital equipment from other manufacturers with the M-track too! Greetings, A
I run my Marklin trains on DCC. New Marklin trains have multiprotocol decoders (MFX, old M and DCC). I converterd my old analoge trains to digital DCC and use the Lenz DCC system.
@@AartJanStrijker I'm using a z21 mostly with DCC, new Märklin- locos support it as you said, and I've many models from roco and piko, witch also supports DCC. Old analog Modells are equipped with various decoders, my favourite ist döhler&Haas. And the poor rest has to run with mm. Oh... and unlike mfx railcom+ works fine...
I still remember my father and mother plus a good friend building a small Märklin layout in 1960 for Santa Claus ( on the 6th of Dec ). We still have all the equipment and my brother is still running the loco's of that time period. So watching this video brings back all the happy memories of my childhood and the love from my parents. The 'microbe' my father planted is still alive and running on my present layout under construction "The AnneliesVille RR". Père Albert is a station on the layout named after my beloved father. Thanks very much for sharing Martin !!
I'm not in Europe and that type of track is exactly what I grew up with.
For the LED, you can use the ultra tiny SMD 0402 LED. You just need to buy the precabled ones, a bit more expansive, but a lot more easy to use. These will fit any place.
There are MS4 type LEDs that DO work in the switches. There is also another alternative to power them (regardless of bulb type). When using DCC, a separate DC power supply can be used to power the lamp, whereby the lamp (+), which is also the switch coil common, is directly connected to the DC (+), and the power supply DC (-) is tied to the track bed. I am using this arrangement with ESU SwitchPilot decoders and it works fine. For those familiar with these turnout decoders, I am providing the auxiliary DC power to the decoders and using the common coil output (+) for lamp power. The auxiliary DC (-) is simply tied to the DCC track bed side. I don't have personal experience with the M83 decoder, but looking at it online, it does not seem to have separate power inputs, and that seems limiting. The ESU SwitchPilot CAN be powered from the track, but in the above described configuration (auxiliary power), it only uses the track power to obtain the DCC signal. The DCC power is isolated from the auxiliary power. Hope this helps.
When I was working on an old Hammond organ, it was recommended to me that I use a product called "DEOXIT" on all of the contacts to maintain continuity and reliability. It's not cheap! A 5 oz. can costs about $20 (US). On top of my computer hutch cabinet I have some N gauge track with an HOe locomotive and some cars. I just touch a 9 volt battery to the rails to test it. I kept having to clean the track often. So, I decided to try the Deoxit. I took a dried out alcohol prep pad and moistened it with the Deoxit then wiped the rails with it. I've had NO problems since! On the can it reads: "F-series Deoxit Fader F5"
kul att du visar dom gamla spåren. Kommer i håg att grannen hade dom. älskar dina snuttar av program väldigt bra!!! . Kul att det är på SWENSA.
Great Video ! I have a small Märklin "M" layout, say about 3 X 3m (I am sitting in the center of the layout). My trains are running digital on the old M-rails, without any problems. All switches and signals are driven by "analogue" transformers. I have also installed the M-Catenery on my layout. An "analogue" transformer provides "analogue" electricity to the M-Catenery. So, my Old Electrical (Catenery) Analogue Märklin trains are running TOGETHER with my new digital trains on the M-tracks.
Thanks again for the intresting Video ! Greetz, Roger.
Pls. explain what a M-Catenery is. Picture? - manufacturer?
Overhead contact line for E-Lovomotives. So the power comes the normal way via the Pantograph to the motor.
Thank you very much for these comments on M-track etc. I was considering the use of M-track in the shadow station and will start experimenting with this. I will keep you noted. Thanks a lot. Peter
Thats track are an Icom!!! My father and I, have one of those!!! Best regards from Argentina!!! I love your videos!!! 😀👏
real good
As always great tips
I have heaps of this track as I used to have a large Marklin Layout, and have always thought it a great track. Used to get it here in NZ from a company called the lamp house (if memory serves me correctly) as an uncle of mine was associated with it. Still, think it is a great model for people to start with and enjoy. Regards Kevin.
I have no problems with short locos on the crossswitches.
Older locos can also be converted, you'll need a 5 pole permanent magnet motor. ;))
Although not relevant to my layout, still however informative and entertaining. Thanks. I am sure you made a lot of European hobbyists happy. See ya next time.
A direct transition from M to K track. I've never thought about it! Thanks for the food for thought! :-D
I think Faller or Brawa made the kind of lamps that fit in the M-track switches.
Another great video! I like converting older locomotives over to dcc myself as well. I was surprised at how many options of track there is for Marklin equipment. Pretty cool! Take care, Ben
You can bypass the lights in the switches to connect them to an analog power circuit. In that way it doesn't use power from your digital system anymore. I have no experience with M-track but the older generation K-track has a similar system.
This is great! Thanks for another awesome tutorial!
Very interesting, fabulous layout 👍
Hi from Germany!
Thank you for the interesting video!
By the way: there were bigger radi and nicer switches in the M-System available. It was called "Modellgleis" but was only available some years in the 1950s. Today, these tracks are quite expensive on ebay, mostly the switches and the curved tracks.
I have some m-track 3600 series (solid middle rail - retired 1958!) in my digital layout and combined with k-track. No issues at all ;-)
Good to hear! I have an excess of 50pcs M-switches type 5202 in my layout. Some of them has now been operated more than 100k times and still works perfect!
@@marklinofsweden I have the same switch ;) The power consumption of the lights can be addressed by powering it with an additional accessory transformer, and using a common ground between accessory trafo and the digital control station (only connected once) - this works reliability with the ECOS and the SwitchPilot v2.
Hi, the connector for C-Track you showed is only for use with the elder MS1. The MS2 (Mobile Station 2) needs another connextionbox called Gleisbox 60113 of 60116. When using a Central Station type 2 or 3 you kan still use the MS1 with an adaptercable as an extra trottle. Further more the CS2 an CS3 and MS2 are also capable with DCC digital format next to the Marklin type MM and MFX.
Furthermore: Nice video once again.
John
Great explanation.
For converting to LED's for switch lighting you might try the Marklin "C" track switch light kit(74470). You would only need the light panel which is fairly small, and if you are using digital transformers I would think it should work nicely.
I have to give experience, because I dumped all my M-Tracks. Mostly for two reason: 1. It's extremely cumbersome to make feedback tracks for feedback sensors, or it becomes really expensive. 2. All lot of non Märklin rolling stock will have problem when running on these tracks.
And never put ancient tracks in the underground. You want to use the most reliable tracks in the underground, to avoid unnecessary derailment. I heard of guy which had done that, and after a couple of year, he complete rebuild his shadow station with C-Track.
Only use M-Track if you want to build a vintage layout.
Hi! Feedback is made by isolating the center rail and using s88 DC modules, or Digikeijs DR4088CS.
I know some people I spoke to had probz with M-rail and therefore not use it in hidden areas. I have had trouble free operation for an excess of 10 years without even cleaning the tracks. This in a garage where the humidity and dust levels are.. not optimal.. Derailment is non-exsistent.
Yes! DC-wheel set will not run through M-rail switches. This is very easy to fix by applying a strip of a beer can. It’s known as ”the tape-fix”.
I‘m from Germany and my grandfather has Märklin rails.
I have Trix because i hate the pins between the rails
A great video. The locomotives look great. greetings Tino
Hello marklinofsweden,
this is a super interesting and very sympathetic channel. 👍👍👍
I can learn a lot from you. .... please continue. 👍
I have just subscribed to the channel.
Greetings from Austria
Thank you Michl!
Interesting information, Martin!
Great Channel👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍
Very simple to replace the old bulb incandescent lamps, that run on A.C. with L.E.D. lamp!. You will need a current limiting resistor (330 ohms and size is 1/8 of a watt)and a diode. Diode (1N4007 Diode are a hundred of them for $5.00.) The diode is to change the AC to DC. Hook the diode & resistor in series with the LED (any color LED you want) to any one of the wires from the old lamp bulb. The components (resistor & diode) should be connected in series, to the anode of the LED lamp. The anode is the longer of the two leads of the L.E.D. lamp. That is the positive feed. That is it! Connect them in that way and you can use lots of LED lamps as they only conssume a fraction of the current of incandecent old bulbs. The other lead of the LED connects to remaing wire, that was provided from the old lamp bulb.
In Colorado, USA there is a company called Evan Designs, they have all kinds of LED's for model railroad use.........it is the place I got my LED's for my SD40-2 that I posted a video of in another video comment section.
I have a large Marklin layout mostly M track in New Zealand however I also use the cantanery system can I convert this to digital by taking the red wire to feed only it and still run anologe on the track
one of my favo video!!!!!
Great video.
How do you minimize dust on your layout? Do you have some kind of air filter system in your layout room?
How do you go about it removing dust without disturbing scenery?
It might be a good topic for a video.
Can you run marklin trains on Bachmann or hornby tracks?
Nope. Märklin HO uses a 3-rail system. Märklin 1-scale and Z-scale use usual 2-rail system. AFAICS, the Bachmann E-Z Tracks use 3-rails only in O scale; Bachmann HO seem to use 2-rail system.
One couldn't use Märklin HO locos or wagons on 2-rail tracks powered by the 2-rail system (ie. with the 2 rails supplying DC).
On the other hand, I don't think there would be any problem using Märklin HO locos that can take the current from the catenary, on 2-rail tracks, where the two rails would be connected to the mass. However, if you are working with digital systems, this would have the inconvenient that the rails couldn't be used to transmit the digital signal to the turnouts and signals, you would have to use separate cables for them. And this would work only for electric loco models, not for diesel or steam loco. Also, if you have wagons using energy (for lighting or sound or other), they couldn't take it from the inexistant third rail, so it would have to be transmitted from the catenary take on the loco to the wagons thru the hooks. But this would make for a bit more of realism ;-)
Note that Märklin also owns Trix which uses the 2-rail system, and Trix material can run on normal 2-rail tracks (they also have 2-rail tracks similar to the Märklin C-tracks). The wheels of the Märklin wagons can usually be replaced by isolated wheels to run them on Trix or other 2-rail systems.
Be aware: Märklin M Track is killing traction tires. When you start building a new layout, you probably be more satisfied with C Track or K Track from Märklin.
Btw: I like your videos. Thanks a lot for this great content on RUclips!
Hi! I have run M-track layouts since 1976 and I have only once replaced traction tires on my locos. There must be something else which ruins yours.. Cleaning liquid on the track, or something?
@@marklinofsweden On my current layout I used K Track. But I had some issues with M track when I was running new Roco locos on a M track layout (not mine). But I think it might depend on the loco manufacturers or how old the model is.
Never had issues with that, btw these tracks are really plieable with pliers to create smooth connections. ;)
@@yannox4494 Probably due to the wheel rims , they are lower than Märklin. Sometime also the wheel distance, I had this with a Rivarossi loco.
Thanks for the vid! No info about extra importance of ground on M-rail?
Regarding the lamps; I have found MS4 led warm wit 7331302 with leds-and-more, ca 15mA.
Looking forward to the next video already!
Cheers :)
what kind of power supply do you use for the m83 decoder.
I am running ESU Switchpilots, I use an old märklin analogue trafo clamped to "direktion switching" as the power source, some switches dont switch without it turned to "direktion switching" .
Well now after about 3 years of not playing with it. It overheats quiet fast and I need an alternative.
Hi Martin, Could you do a video on the Marklin K flex track? I'm looking for a tutorial on how to make a smooth s-curve with the Marklin K track. Also, any solder tips for the Marklin K track would be helpful.
kan du klargöra hyr det fungerar på en större digital anläggning med cs1 och boostrar. kablar däremellan.
kan man använda 6021 som strömförsörjning ihop med cs1?
I have 20 M track turnouts on my layout. They are screwed down to a plywood base. My problem is: if I want to remove a piece of track or a turnout because of it being faulty, how much of the surrounding track do I have to remove before I can remove one target piece of track or turnout?
Nice video, thnx for that.
How do you make blocks with M-track?
Do a running session. Please run the triple unit and the crocodile!!
😄 Hi! Triple? Ok! Crocs? Ok! Noted to the wishlist! 👍
@@marklinofsweden Thanks
Someone could say what is the name on the 08:26 min.? Is a box wood loco.
Love, Love, LOVE your videos - have learnt a lot and am slowly incorporating ideas as I develop a multi level M-track layout. Random unrelated question for you - why in the many many videos that I've watched (from many posters) have I never seen the catenary system actually used? Either the pantograph is up with no wires strung, or there is painstaking levels of detail included in the catenary - but the pantographs are not extended.
Thank-you in advance
Can you please make a video on how to connect a old marklin track to the new track.
@5:07 dust, lubricate... There is one more thing. Don't smoke beside the model train!
What do you use for digital central hardware to your layout? I am useing Digikeij dr 5000. And dr4018 to switches. Cheap and good stuffs 🙂.
The Marklin M Rail track is fantastic reliable!
Great tutorial!
I have a question: arch bridge which is just behind you have a tutorial? Can you please link to this video?
Hi Eugene! I currently do not have a tutorial how-to build the bridge. Sry for that!
@@marklinofsweden It's OK! I'll wait, when will ...
I even try out the LED´s for the switching-signs but... throw this idea away. I search on ebay for several LED´s, most of them dosn´t fit and if they fits, it is to shiny. So, dos it like you, put away any of them (65 M-switches) and save a lot of energy. The filtering condenser? Today, at times of modern techniques in our t.v.´s and modern internet, i think we dosn´t need them any more, except your neighbour is preparing to contact aliens with an old cb-station....
So the Marklin track is actually a 3 rail system, with the out side rail negative and the center rail is positive? Is the voltage direct current? Great video explaining your track system. Do you run programmed train routes with your DigiTrax system? Skol! Ron//
The Märkin track system is 16 V alternate current. The remote reverse system in the locos done by switching a relay activated by an overvoltage of about 20V, sent when pressing a button on the transformer. Other European 3 rail systems (like the French Jep one or the British Dublo until 1959) worked with "normal" direct current (20V for Jep), while the rest of European railwa modelling manufacturers used the H0 12V two tracks direct current system (Hornby, Tri-Ang, Jouef, Roco, Lima, etc. Fleischmann being in 14V.
Jean thank you for the clarification. But on the marklin track there are little raised points in the middle of the rails is that the positive and the outside rails are both negative?
@@baldypalmsrailroad Nope, because it's ac they switch poles.
Inside the loco is a switching relais wich sends power to the forward coil or the reverse coil of the motor.
It's tech from 1930's and super reliable. :))
@@baldypalmsrailroad This is AC, Alternating Current. So the 2 rails are the ground, 0V, and the center rail (raised points) vary alternatively between -16V and +16V. Well, in analog mode, the exact tension depends on the speed you want and vary periodically in a sinusoid with peaks at 20 V to send a reverse signal, an in digital mode, it's either -16V or +16V. ftp://ftp.informatimago.com/users/pjb/images/marklin-mfx.bmp
@@informatimago Thank you for the explanation.
Hi!, I know that my cuestion isn´t about of this video, but I have an urgent cuestion. I want to do a diorama about night, but it´s a desert, so there´s not light (no traffic lights, no lantern), I want to know if I have to do the diorama as if it were day and then, when it is night, light up the estage somehow (and how?), or paint the diorama if it were night from the beginning (
I'm thinking of painting the sky and the sand of blues, purples and black). Please help me. Thank you very much.
I would probably use same colors as if I modeled a day scene and illuminate the diorama with hardlight (spotlight) blue/white LEDs. However.. If the diorama should look like night scene, even in bright daylight illumination. Coloring and shadows would have to be painted accordingly.
I use Ahthern code 100 on my Mains
Does it have a third rai for ac?
Hi, I am having crates full of M tracks here in Mumbai India. My problem is humidity and how to remove rust and dust from my tracks. I keep on applying M44 but that gives me temporary relief.
Hi,Viraf. I went over a heavy cleaning of dust and rust from a bunch of old M tracks that I'd stored for over 20 years. I went on a deep investigation all over forums, web pages, etc. and I tried more than 6 different ways of cleaning rust (even using Coca Cola!!!). What finally worked for me (mainly for heavy rusted Marklin M tracks) was:
1. soak in white vinegar the rusty parts. This can be done using an old small brush. It'll take out most of the rust
2. clean the track (except turnovers or uncoupling tracks that have electrical parts), sinking the whole track in lightly soapy warm water using a light tooth brush (under the water) to clean the track, don't be afraid, nothing will happen to the track!
3. dry the tracks with a hairdryer, putting the track vertically in order to let drain any moisture that could be inside the rails
4. last but not least, when dried, clean the rails and the center track with isopropyl alcohol. The track will be working almost perfectly
The downside of the vinegar is that, for really heavy rusted tracks, will leave the rails with an orange looking where the rust was, but, it didn't harm the electrical operation, it's just visually odd.
For turnouts, I did basically the same, just soaking in vinegar more carefully and cleaning with lightly soapy water using a small non fluff cloth
If the rust already attacked the metal rails making small fissures or cracks, you'll need to sand those parts with the finest sandpaper you can find, (even though it is not recommendable at all) in order to remove the rust. The problem of doing this is that the sand paper leaves small near invisible cracks where dust will settle in the future, making electrical contact poor and also making cleaning track work more frequently. Irecover around 120 tracks using this method and worked fine for me. Hope it helps.
I forgot to say: for just heavy dust (not rusted), use lightly soapy warm water (as before) and then clean with isopropyl alcohol. It'll take out all the dust!
Dear Gustavo, thank you so much for your wonderful tips, I will start working upon it. My next task will be cleaning the wheels and contact shoes of about almost 150 vintage locomotives.
@@virafmulla Very good, isopropyl alcohol will do the job nicely for wheels and contact shoes....good luck!
Jag vill börja med Märklin igen och undrar om vad jag ska köpa för att det ska kosta så lite så möjligt.
The only way you can x-
I have M and K rail, In krail I separate the rail and with Swiches 2P2T can conneted DC transformer and can run Fleisccchmann Locos, Hi
Hello Martin,
you showed a lot of Märklin stuff... even if I think the Märklin models are good, I don't think that the digital equipment is good. And the cs2/3 is much too expensive and misses many features.
I just want to say, that it's possible to use digital equipment from other manufacturers with the M-track too!
Greetings, A
I run my Marklin trains on DCC. New Marklin trains have multiprotocol decoders (MFX, old M and DCC). I converterd my old analoge trains to digital DCC and use the Lenz DCC system.
@@AartJanStrijker I'm using a z21 mostly with DCC, new Märklin- locos support it as you said, and I've many models from roco and piko, witch also supports DCC. Old analog Modells are equipped with various decoders, my favourite ist döhler&Haas. And the poor rest has to run with mm.
Oh... and unlike mfx railcom+ works fine...
Why is this surprising?
the aM Track
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