People don't realize how much knowledge it takes to properly setup any type of race car. I hope this becomes a series. I would love to see a break down video of each component and what it does and what adjustments will affect this and that. Keep up the great content 👏
I have learned more from your videos than anyone has been able to tell me sir. I also have a 2014 shaw with xl updates. Love the car now that I have gotten it set up. Now just some lap time and fine tuning. 60 year old rookie lol
I had a 2015 shaw and it was a nice handling ride this was in 2017 though so was fairly new and up to date. Great cars and great customer support for setup issues. I wish RUclips was around like this back when I first started racing in 03 it would have helped alot but I learned by figuring out stuff and ppl helping me over the years. I quit racing but still love setting Emm up once in a while asphalt or dirt cars I setup now for ppl to help Emm. I'm 30 and had to stop racing 3 years ago started at age of 10 in ministock mustang lol. But this is some good knowledge I learned a new truck just now
Good deal bud! I think it’s good to have videos like this to a point but young drivers now a days have no idea what’s it’s like to figure it out on your own. They just buy and buy and then bring there car to someone every time they get it off. Lol
Keep these videos going and you’ll be the biggest race channel for mods on RUclips. Always a secret society when it comes to this for whatever reason. Funny thing is that their secret setup is just customized to the driver mostly so it’s irrelevant. Showing simple setup by the book just ain’t been on here. But ALL the channels with show you body work lol. Good stuff! 🏁🏁🏁🤙🤙🤙🤙
On the rf I always adjust the jacket bolt counter clockwise first then put the shock on and measure the travel with the driver and then measure the ride height and then I’m just messing Iv never set up a modified 😂
One other question and if it was said im sorry. What year is this shaw. And by the way thanks for explaining stuff barney style and making it sound understandable. Much respect sir.
It was a good video. What would be close ride height numbers? I know you said suspension pickups will not always be the same, but load sticks are expensive for a budget driver.
You checked the ride heights and then went to cranking on the jack bolts. Shouldn’t you go back and recheck the heights or was it close enough initially to skip this process. Still old school and trying to wrap my head around this load stick data.
If everything is correct and ride heights are dead on when you start the load stick process you will only slightly adjust the jacking bolts. Which has very minimal changes to ride heights. If you have to put 4 rounds in or out the jacking bolt to get the load number then something is wrong somewhere and you need to start back at square one.
All the basics are the same. caster camber numbers would work with no issue. The 4 bar angles may differ a little. And all load numbers should be very close. It’ll definitely be in the ball park.
how about the left front and toe out. my mod handled better with positive camber in the LF and 3/8 to 1/2 toe out with a Chevelle stub. just wondering where they are with the newer chassis.
When you talked about the pullbar @9:00 mark, you had it setup to the bottom hole on the front end saying it was more of a short track deal.....I race at a 3/8 mile track with about 5 degrees in the straits and 15-20 in the corners. Would I move it up a hole for that size track?
I would it will keep liquor hooked up longer down the streets with less angle in it but it’s all driver preference and What feels good to you in the seat.
So when you’re doing your load numbers, does it not make a difference with the wheel being on the car compared to no wheel being on the car specially because different wheels way different weights
There pretty nice bulky but nice. If I built another new car I would probably put them on the birdcage side only and regular small jam nuts on the frame side.
Awesome video man!! How much rear steer do you typically put in the car? Are you leading the RR at static height or running it equal wheel base? Have a buddy with home built car and trying to help get it headed the right direction.
I always start with the rearend square at ride heights. Getting up on the bars puts plenty of rear steer in it unless your on a crate motor then I would start with the RR 1/2” back to help the car rotate with less motor.
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 I just don’t know what the norm is for rear steer measurement. Like I know the norm for the bar angles and such. I just don’t want to set up with 3in of rear steer in attitude and be way out in left field chasing a loose car when it’s just take a few round out the right side wheel base. Thanks again for the help!!
No problem bud! Just pull the measurements off the motor plate to ensure the rearend is square at ride height and then go from there. Just do what the driver feels what’s right in the seat. Don’t get hung up to much on exact measurements every driver is different and might want something a little different then the next!
Well I would like to know how much of this Shaw setup is the creation of Wayne Brooks, and how much of it is Kevin Shaw's?...😂 Because the way the rearend and front end is setup. The measuring points, etc, Is definitely coming across to me like a Wayne Brooks creation... Since the original Shaw car was actually a car. That Wayne Brooks created and I would not be surprised if Mr. Brooks had a fair amount of input into this current style of Shaw car. However, the way you were measuring ia how I recall. Wayne Brooks doing his measurements, back when I was working with him. As far as something better or easier, I have had to learn different ways of setting up cars. That I am of the mind that the simplest way. Is still the way a person should go about setting up their car. Provided you get the numbers you are looking for in the process of setting up your car. (Essentially find a way that will give you the setup numbers you are looking for. Then stick with doing it that way.) Because one example would be, back when I was working with Kelly Shryock. He liked the right ball joint to be about a inch higher than the left on the front end. Yet if the lower control arms are different. Than what he is used to using and a person cannot get above measurement. Due to the offset of the tire, making it nearly impossible to take those measurements. At that point you have to locate a different location to take that measurement. Besides I orginally learned to measure from the frame down to the flat ground. Which is how it is done when taking measurements from a computerized alignment machine. In order to determine if the frame is bent. Or something was broken on the front end. Although I still like to know what the scale numbers look like. Yet I do understand the way you are doing it does make it much easier.
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 Well I am sure of one thing. A person isn't going to get a straight answer out of any of them about who came up with what. At least from the perspective of Wayne Brooks on the subject.
I would be curious if you ever scaled the car after you setup using the smasher and load stick. Would it scale out normal pecentages? To numbers like you used to do before you got the smasher and load stick.
If you have no base numbers then that’s how you would do it. But if a chassis manufacturer supplied numbers then scaling isn’t necessary unless your getting total weight and percentages right.
there's one thing i'm not understanding. if you had already set ride height, caster, and camber, then changed the load on the springs, wouldn;t that now change those initial settings? i always set the caster and camber after loading. am I doing this backwards?
Caster and camber can alter the contact patch of the tire to the ground which can alter load numbers. So I always do it before but that’s just me I don’t claim to be a setup genius
Hey bud i had a ? I am completly new to racing and have a ? thats probably a stupid ? but i just bought a 06 shaw and was wondering about what parts i need to buy for it as in 06 chevy parts or can they be just any parts ?? if ya get what im saying? its just the frame and cockpit only no control arms or nothing just frame so sense im new to it and just getting into it can ya give me an answer on what parts to buy please? as in can it be any rear end ? as in ford , chevy , etc on a rear end for it or does it have to be a chevy rear end? and control arms? Ty
Honestly it depends on your rules bud. The only stock parts like from a parts store you would use is a steering box, pitman arm, drag link, and idler arm. Those are all 67 68 chevelle parts. Everything else you could order from speedway motors or the absolute best place to order everything you need for that car would be Shaw race cars. They will sell you every part, nut, bolt, and spacer you’ll ever need the car and it’ll fit 100%
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 Thank you alot bud i really appreciate it ALOT. Like i said i know it was a stupid ? and all but i have tried asking guys after the races in the pits and 99% of them just laughed at me. Lol so i really do appreciate it alot means alot to me to know that there are still some respectful guys out there and thats not stuck up or stuck on themself. so once again Ty for not coming back and being a smart ass about it. And keep the videos coming i always enjoy watching your videos you actually explain things well and in detail. Ty and best of luck in racing to ya!!!
No problem bud! The guys at shaw are great people as well they take the time to explain any questions you may have there not the type to take your card info then just hang up.
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People don't realize how much knowledge it takes to properly setup any type of race car. I hope this becomes a series. I would love to see a break down video of each component and what it does and what adjustments will affect this and that. Keep up the great content 👏
It may! Kinda depends what kind of reaction I get and if a lot of people want more videos like this.
I have learned more from your videos than anyone has been able to tell me sir. I also have a 2014 shaw with xl updates. Love the car now that I have gotten it set up. Now just some lap time and fine tuning. 60 year old rookie lol
I’m glad it’s helping bud! That’s the whole point! Tell everyone about the channel and tell them to subscribe
Thank you for taking the time to share some knowledge! I’m fairly new to racing an a-mod and this video helped explain a lot
Yes sir! Stay tuned and share the page. I’m gonna have more tech videos out within a few weeks
Well said on the explanation of zero indexing and that its just a meaning not a zero.
Thanks man I appreciate it!
I had a 2015 shaw and it was a nice handling ride this was in 2017 though so was fairly new and up to date. Great cars and great customer support for setup issues. I wish RUclips was around like this back when I first started racing in 03 it would have helped alot but I learned by figuring out stuff and ppl helping me over the years. I quit racing but still love setting Emm up once in a while asphalt or dirt cars I setup now for ppl to help Emm. I'm 30 and had to stop racing 3 years ago started at age of 10 in ministock mustang lol. But this is some good knowledge I learned a new truck just now
Good deal bud! I think it’s good to have videos like this to a point but young drivers now a days have no idea what’s it’s like to figure it out on your own. They just buy and buy and then bring there car to someone every time they get it off. Lol
Bsb makes a really good tool for checking ride height off the lower a-arm bolts. Definitely worth owning. Great video.
Thanks I’ll definitely look into it!
Heck man I learned a bunch just now from this video the days of 2 inches of stagger and letting air out till you see sidewall flex are long gone
I’m glad it helped bud! Subscribe and share if you don’t mind.
That was a very good explanation of how to setup a modified!
Thanks man! I was hoping it would be.
Great video man. I just now found your channel.
Thanks man! Share and tell everyone to subscribe lol
Keep these videos going and you’ll be the biggest race channel for mods on RUclips. Always a secret society when it comes to this for whatever reason. Funny thing is that their secret setup is just customized to the driver mostly so it’s irrelevant. Showing simple setup by the book just ain’t been on here. But ALL the channels with show you body work lol. Good stuff! 🏁🏁🏁🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thanks man! I sure hope your right lol
On the rf I always adjust the jacket bolt counter clockwise first then put the shock on and measure the travel with the driver and then measure the ride height and then I’m just messing Iv never set up a modified 😂
Man, sweet video! Just what I was looking for! Sent you a message on your fb race page...
Awesome job that's how we do it
Awesome video. Tons of information. Like that hat!
Found it at the goodwill store! Lol
One other question and if it was said im sorry. What year is this shaw. And by the way thanks for explaining stuff barney style and making it sound understandable. Much respect sir.
Thanks man! Subscribe and share if you can. This car was a 2020 model
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Yes sir!!
Nice job enjoyed that a lot
Thanks bud! Subscribe and share!
It was a good video. What would be close ride height numbers? I know you said suspension pickups will not always be the same, but load sticks are expensive for a budget driver.
I’m a budget racer myself I picked up that load stick used for $300. But good front ride heights would be 8” LF 7 3/4-8” RF
Hey watched this a few times, didn’t see what the J bar needs to be set to? I don’t have a book to go off of lol. Thanks
Lol 7” up on the frame to center of bolt and center of pinion on the quickchange
You checked the ride heights and then went to cranking on the jack bolts. Shouldn’t you go back and recheck the heights or was it close enough initially to skip this process. Still old school and trying to wrap my head around this load stick data.
If everything is correct and ride heights are dead on when you start the load stick process you will only slightly adjust the jacking bolts. Which has very minimal changes to ride heights. If you have to put 4 rounds in or out the jacking bolt to get the load number then something is wrong somewhere and you need to start back at square one.
Watched your video and thank you for sharing; curious would this set up work with other manufacturers (ie GRT)
All the basics are the same. caster camber numbers would work with no issue. The 4 bar angles may differ a little. And all load numbers should be very close. It’ll definitely be in the ball park.
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 will give it a shot and keep you posted
Thanks for sharing. Great content.
Thank you!
how about the left front and toe out. my mod handled better with positive camber in the LF and 3/8 to 1/2 toe out with a Chevelle stub. just wondering where they are with the newer chassis.
What brand of trailing arms are on the right side? Those look nice
Wehrs machine.
Very good video
Thanks! Share with your buddies!
When you talked about the pullbar @9:00 mark, you had it setup to the bottom hole on the front end saying it was more of a short track deal.....I race at a 3/8 mile track with about 5 degrees in the straits and 15-20 in the corners. Would I move it up a hole for that size track?
I would it will keep liquor hooked up longer down the streets with less angle in it but it’s all driver preference and What feels good to you in the seat.
So when you’re doing your load numbers, does it not make a difference with the wheel being on the car compared to no wheel being on the car specially because different wheels way different weights
It does make a difference. You should have the correct wheels/tires you will be racing on when setting loads.
Are those the Wehrs Jam nuts on the trailing arms? If so, how do you like them? They look pretty slick.
There pretty nice bulky but nice. If I built another new car I would probably put them on the birdcage side only and regular small jam nuts on the frame side.
Awesome video man!! How much rear steer do you typically put in the car? Are you leading the RR at static height or running it equal wheel base? Have a buddy with home built car and trying to help get it headed the right direction.
I always start with the rearend square at ride heights. Getting up on the bars puts plenty of rear steer in it unless your on a crate motor then I would start with the RR 1/2” back to help the car rotate with less motor.
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 thanks for the response. I think the problem is too much rear steer rn.
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 I just don’t know what the norm is for rear steer measurement. Like I know the norm for the bar angles and such. I just don’t want to set up with 3in of rear steer in attitude and be way out in left field chasing a loose car when it’s just take a few round out the right side wheel base. Thanks again for the help!!
No problem bud! Just pull the measurements off the motor plate to ensure the rearend is square at ride height and then go from there. Just do what the driver feels what’s right in the seat. Don’t get hung up to much on exact measurements every driver is different and might want something a little different then the next!
Well I would like to know how much of this Shaw setup is the creation of Wayne Brooks, and how much of it is Kevin Shaw's?...😂
Because the way the rearend and front end is setup. The measuring points, etc, Is definitely coming across to me like a Wayne Brooks creation...
Since the original Shaw car was actually a car. That Wayne Brooks created and I would not be surprised if Mr. Brooks had a fair amount of input into this current style of Shaw car.
However, the way you were measuring ia how I recall. Wayne Brooks doing his measurements, back when I was working with him.
As far as something better or easier, I have had to learn different ways of setting up cars. That I am of the mind that the simplest way. Is still the way a person should go about setting up their car. Provided you get the numbers you are looking for in the process of setting up your car. (Essentially find a way that will give you the setup numbers you are looking for. Then stick with doing it that way.)
Because one example would be, back when I was working with Kelly Shryock. He liked the right ball joint to be about a inch higher than the left on the front end.
Yet if the lower control arms are different. Than what he is used to using and a person cannot get above measurement. Due to the offset of the tire, making it nearly impossible to take those measurements. At that point you have to locate a different location to take that measurement.
Besides I orginally learned to measure from the frame down to the flat ground. Which is how it is done when taking measurements from a computerized alignment machine. In order to determine if the frame is bent. Or something was broken on the front end.
Although I still like to know what the scale numbers look like. Yet I do understand the way you are doing it does make it much easier.
Well I’m sure they came up with most of it together lol
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 Well I am sure of one thing. A person isn't going to get a straight answer out of any of them about who came up with what. At least from the perspective of Wayne Brooks on the subject.
those are sweet
I would be curious if you ever scaled the car after you setup using the smasher and load stick. Would it scale out normal pecentages? To numbers like you used to do before you got the smasher and load stick.
It’s similar but not to crazy different. Like it differs 20-30lbs per corner some cars some cars it’s right back to the normal scale numbers
If you have no base numbers then that’s how you would do it. But if a chassis manufacturer supplied numbers then scaling isn’t necessary unless your getting total weight and percentages right.
Rear links are those center heim hole to hole?
Yes sir
I thought that BBB was owned by Zach the guy that owns outlaw speedway?
It is bud
So do you set front ride height after you get your left rear pre load and right rear smash number?
Yes. That’s how your racing it so that’s where it will be set
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 thank you sir
What do you mean by a rigid suspension? Does that mean to tight?
It means super stiff
there's one thing i'm not understanding. if you had already set ride height, caster, and camber, then changed the load on the springs, wouldn;t that now change those initial settings? i always set the caster and camber after loading. am I doing this backwards?
Caster and camber can alter the contact patch of the tire to the ground which can alter load numbers. So I always do it before but that’s just me I don’t claim to be a setup genius
Can you tell me at ride height if right side wheel base should be more or less than left side
Right side wheel base should be slightly longer then left side at ride height.
Any advice on grt setup
Stay tuned!! Working on a full GRT setup video as we speak!
GRT full setup is now live! Go check it out!
Did you pre-load the RR or just ride height? What spring
200lbs spring no preload. Set the load at ride height with a spring smasher.
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 I guess I miss understand when you said to set at 400Lbs at ride height @26:46
On a spring smasher you smash it to your ride height measurement and at that measurement it should have 400lbs of load. Not preload
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 ok thanks. Look forward to more videos
Do you have the setup sheets for 2020? The ones they keep sending me are for older cars.
Hey bud i had a ? I am completly new to racing and have a ? thats probably a stupid ? but i just bought a 06 shaw and was wondering about what parts i need to buy for it as in 06 chevy parts or can they be just any parts ?? if ya get what im saying? its just the frame and cockpit only no control arms or nothing just frame so sense im new to it and just getting into it can ya give me an answer on what parts to buy please? as in can it be any rear end ? as in ford , chevy , etc on a rear end for it or does it have to be a chevy rear end? and control arms? Ty
Honestly it depends on your rules bud. The only stock parts like from a parts store you would use is a steering box, pitman arm, drag link, and idler arm. Those are all 67 68 chevelle parts. Everything else you could order from speedway motors or the absolute best place to order everything you need for that car would be Shaw race cars. They will sell you every part, nut, bolt, and spacer you’ll ever need the car and it’ll fit 100%
@@robertsracecarsbybbb60 Thank you alot bud i really appreciate it ALOT. Like i said i know it was a stupid ? and all but i have tried asking guys after the races in the pits and 99% of them just laughed at me. Lol so i really do appreciate it alot means alot to me to know that there are still some respectful guys out there and thats not stuck up or stuck on themself. so once again Ty for not coming back and being a smart ass about it. And keep the videos coming i always enjoy watching your videos you actually explain things well and in detail. Ty and best of luck in racing to ya!!!
No problem bud! The guys at shaw are great people as well they take the time to explain any questions you may have there not the type to take your card info then just hang up.
Me gusta mucho tu música y tus videos cortos. 👍 uno de gisellee.monster Quiere compartir videos como el tuyox para conseguir el cariño que no tiene.