Never done anything remotely close to this before and followed this video and everything seems to be perfect now! Really great beginner friendly explanations
Fantastic! Making neck, intonation and bridge adjustments can challenging - so this is great that you were able to get to it with this video - if you have any trouble, please comment here and I would be happy to help! Cheers, Alan
Hi Steve - thanks for the kind words... I have had quite a bit of constructive critique with past attempts so I was hoping to get this one RIGHT... hoping I didn't miss anything... cheers and thx for the visit / watch and feedback!
Right on - I tried to make sure I covered all of "what needs to be done" but clearly having others like yourself view and give feedback helps! thank you. Alan
Really wanting an Ibanez in the future but a locking trem makes me nervous since I haven't had one since high school lol. This is helpful 🙏🏽 gonna have to do it
Seriously, once you start to learn and implement how to setup the bridge, it's actually easy - you can always comment here and I would be happy to help.
@@josephmariano1102 yes. The small screw should be loosened (counter clockwise) until you feel it stop. then adjust the big screw or post screw... once you are done, then tighten the small screw until you feel it bottom out or until its "snug".
Hope you can offer some help. I've just removed an old set of strings on an edge pro 2 JS 140M however I didn't block the tremolo prior to changing the strings and the bridge has lowered. Can I lift up the bridge using the tremolo and block this off and add the new strings. Would this put the bridge back to it's previous resting position which was originally level with the guitar body. 👍👍😎😎
If you are putting on the same gauge strings and going to tune to the same pitch, then in theory, the bridge will "level" to the same position you had prior to a string change. One trick I like to do if I'm just changing strings... do them one string at a time and this way, the bridge only moves back a little until you bring the new string back up to pitch... But if the bridge sits all the way down because you removed all of the strings, take the trem bar and use that to help move the bridge until you get enough string tension...
I had one of these in the 80s and my "method" for getting the bridge level was to sight the bridge string-lock bolts so that they were in line with the body.
How do you ensure the tension in the zleings is even? And is it important (or even necessary) for the tensions to be even? Will it have an impact / torsion effect on the angle of the bridge?
The tension of each spring can be set by looking at the "claw" and keeping it the same distance.... My preference is to keep the bridge FLAT (looking at the saddles) and at standard tuning, if the bridge is pulling UP (away from the body), then tighten the spring claw...if the bridge is getting sucked down into the body, then "loosen" the spring claw. Each time you do this you will have to "retune" the guitar and then look to make further adjustments. I hope this helps!
@ makes sense - I'm just thinking of the scenario where you have two springs controlling tension. How do you account for "torsion" i.e. twisting? Will an imbalance of spring tension across both springs cause one side of the bridge to be higher than the other? Or will it remain level, but place undie stress on one side more than the other?
@@decky1990 I think you would have to REALLY have to have the springs misaligned quite a bit. I have never had problems with what I think you are talking about. what has more of an impact to bridge height is your adjusting posts. Once you have adequate spring tension pulling against the opposing string tension, it's going to be difficult to have one side pulling UP or DOWN more than the other...
@ Thanks, man! Hopefully my post didn't cone across as too pedantic! Just more curiosity than anything else. Have an 8570 that's set up well, but would like to try this on my 1570, as an exercise of understanding. Thanks for making this video 👍🏻
@@decky1990 Right on - I think you asked a great question and I'm certain many who read our exchange will be able to understand also. Good luck with the 1570 and any issues, feel free to hit me up again. Cheers! Alan
Hi Eric, the small set screw in the height post is a 1.5 mm size - if you navigate to this video at the 0.38 second mark, you'll see more details. I hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/tCdCZuqjCEk/видео.html
Just a question. Don't these edge bridges have a little rectangular line on the side of the bridge to help you determine if the bridge is level or not?
I just looked and mine does not. Perhaps some do - maybe more people who read your post can comment. Excellent point and thanks for leaving the comment. Alan
Excellent question, thanks for asking! For years, I did this for all of my terms on both the Ibanez and Floyd rose. I always thought that it would dull the knife edge by having the Full string / spring tension. Since then, I have seen many luthiers make adjustments in their videos without reducing the string tension... So, I then purchased this RG-550 and decided why not try making the adjustments to see for myself. I have yet to have any problems and so far, this particular Ibanez has been the best "staying in tune" out of all my trems. Maybe on other bridges it's necessary, but for this particular model bridge, I'm not worried about making height adjustments with full string / spring tension. Cheers! Alan
@@ajlsoundwave, @alexjakian, Be Aware! Never ever adjust the bridge height screws without loosening all the string and spring tension. You can seriously damage the bridge posts and/or the sharp edges if not. It's like cutting very forcefully with a knife into another metal. If that happens it will most likely ruin the minimal contact surfaces and make the guitar not get back in tune after using the whammy bar due to friction at these contact points. To ignore this fact is a serious mistake, trust me. If a real "luthier" would go ahead and do this he is either very lazy and arrogant, or exceptionally ignorant. Have serviced more ruined posts and bridges than I care to remember for the last 35 y, and spare's doesn't come cheap either I'm afraid.
@@lemmy546 Thanks for the feedback, I'm not saying you are correct, but I do appreciate what you have to say and leaving your comment for others to decide what works best for them. Cheers!
@@ajlsoundwave Each and everyone to their own salvation :) I appreciate your video on tuning Floyd style trems and your gentle attitude. If it wasn't that I liked what you do I wouldn't comment. I've been doing guitar repairing professionally since 1988 and have worked in several guitar shops as well as being the owner of one. I just wanted to share my experience about something I find problematic. Anyone's choice to play it safe or play the Russian roulette game with their gear. Cheers mate!
@@lemmy546 It's very important to voice your opinion with your experiences. I appreciate having people like you comment especially if it helps someone out - thanks again for taking the time to watch and especially having your comment / opinion that others can read! Happy trails, Alan
Hi Alan.. I have RG570 (1991) using Edge trem. I accidentally mixed the saddles. Any different between each other, in terms of the thickness? Also it has number under it. Is it for specific position to locate those saddles? Hope you can help. Thank you.
@@pakuandpakis yes, the thickness will be different as follows: string 1&6 will be the thinist "thickness" vs strings 3&4 which will be the thickest. Strings 2&5 will be thicker than 1&2, but not as thick as 3&4. So there are 6 saddles, only 3 different heights as pairs. Does this make sense?
Hey mate , thanks for the setup , just one question. İ have Lo Pro Edge, While intonating i saw ,you just loosed one string to intonate it. Arent we risking other strings go sharp and break. İ am always getting scared and loose all of them all the time, even if it is only 1 string to intonate. Thanks a bunch , it helps alot!
In all of my years of playing FR's or Ibanez's... I have never had a problem with having string breakage due to loosening one for intonating. The strings are quite ductile and can withstand quite a bit of abuse... give it a try for yourself! Cheers, Alan
@ajlsoundwave yeah... there is also an Ibanez edge zero tool that works for most of these systems... I also own the generic FR tool that is a complete POS
@@BillVerdon I looked up both the ibanez and RB tools... either of these look much better in design than the allparts POS I had used... thanks for posting this; I can def. see getting one of these in my toolbox! Best regards, Alan
These guitars are now a waste of time and money. Line 6 shuriken is by far superior amongst all guitars out there now. Not just opinion, facts. (yes it's opinion haha) Prove me wrong if you want, but you set, forget, and do anything you want model, tuning, string, digitally with software. I am so happy to be DONE with taking 30 minutes just to setup my guitar.
Dude, I just checked out the Shuriken - looks / sounds killer. Have you also looked at the Neural dsp "soldano-x" plugin? it too has the ability to control pitch... pretty slick.
Never done anything remotely close to this before and followed this video and everything seems to be perfect now! Really great beginner friendly explanations
Fantastic! Making neck, intonation and bridge adjustments can challenging - so this is great that you were able to get to it with this video - if you have any trouble, please comment here and I would be happy to help! Cheers, Alan
Great job. A few real jems in this video. Nice work.
Hi Steve - thanks for the kind words... I have had quite a bit of constructive critique with past attempts so I was hoping to get this one RIGHT... hoping I didn't miss anything... cheers and thx for the visit / watch and feedback!
Not Jem, RG550...😆
best video for edge tremolo set up, thank you good sir.
Right on - I tried to make sure I covered all of "what needs to be done" but clearly having others like yourself view and give feedback helps! thank you. Alan
Really wanting an Ibanez in the future but a locking trem makes me nervous since I haven't had one since high school lol. This is helpful 🙏🏽 gonna have to do it
Seriously, once you start to learn and implement how to setup the bridge, it's actually easy - you can always comment here and I would be happy to help.
Thanks for this video man. Just got a new RG550 and it has fret buzz everywhere. Gonna try to tackle the setup.
Right on. So if you have fret buzz in multiple areas, definitely look at the neck relief... cheers! Alan
@@ajlsoundwave Okay cool, thanks man! So I would need more relief and start with a quarter turn CCW?
@@jalapinya yes - easily 1/4 to 1/2 to start with...
Can you explain the small screw inside the big screw? Does the small screw always have to be loosened for adjustment or change of tunning?
@@josephmariano1102 yes. The small screw should be loosened (counter clockwise) until you feel it stop. then adjust the big screw or post screw... once you are done, then tighten the small screw until you feel it bottom out or until its "snug".
Thanks I am going to work on my older 350 dx before I start working on the 550.
@@RiotTimeSkip Great idea - if you still have any issues / questions, hit me up.
Hope you can offer some help. I've just removed an old set of strings on an edge pro 2 JS 140M however I didn't block the tremolo prior to changing the strings and the bridge has lowered. Can I lift up the bridge using the tremolo and block this off and add the new strings. Would this put the bridge back to it's previous resting position which was originally level with the guitar body. 👍👍😎😎
If you are putting on the same gauge strings and going to tune to the same pitch, then in theory, the bridge will "level" to the same position you had prior to a string change. One trick I like to do if I'm just changing strings... do them one string at a time and this way, the bridge only moves back a little until you bring the new string back up to pitch... But if the bridge sits all the way down because you removed all of the strings, take the trem bar and use that to help move the bridge until you get enough string tension...
@@ajlsoundwave Brilliant I'll try that. Thanks for the comment. 👍👍
Great reminder..tyvm 👍
@@dekzan right on. 🙏
The great explanation, thanks for the video!
right on, thx for the watch and feedback!
I had one of these in the 80s and my "method" for getting the bridge level was to sight the bridge string-lock bolts so that they were in line with the body.
well it if works and helps with the setup, then KUDOS to your method!!!
How do you ensure the tension in the zleings is even? And is it important (or even necessary) for the tensions to be even? Will it have an impact / torsion effect on the angle of the bridge?
The tension of each spring can be set by looking at the "claw" and keeping it the same distance.... My preference is to keep the bridge FLAT (looking at the saddles) and at standard tuning, if the bridge is pulling UP (away from the body), then tighten the spring claw...if the bridge is getting sucked down into the body, then "loosen" the spring claw. Each time you do this you will have to "retune" the guitar and then look to make further adjustments. I hope this helps!
@ makes sense - I'm just thinking of the scenario where you have two springs controlling tension.
How do you account for "torsion" i.e. twisting?
Will an imbalance of spring tension across both springs cause one side of the bridge to be higher than the other?
Or will it remain level, but place undie stress on one side more than the other?
@@decky1990 I think you would have to REALLY have to have the springs misaligned quite a bit. I have never had problems with what I think you are talking about. what has more of an impact to bridge height is your adjusting posts. Once you have adequate spring tension pulling against the opposing string tension, it's going to be difficult to have one side pulling UP or DOWN more than the other...
@ Thanks, man!
Hopefully my post didn't cone across as too pedantic! Just more curiosity than anything else.
Have an 8570 that's set up well, but would like to try this on my 1570, as an exercise of understanding.
Thanks for making this video 👍🏻
@@decky1990 Right on - I think you asked a great question and I'm certain many who read our exchange will be able to understand also. Good luck with the 1570 and any issues, feel free to hit me up again. Cheers! Alan
What size was that smallest allen wrench
Hi Eric, the small set screw in the height post is a 1.5 mm size - if you navigate to this video at the 0.38 second mark, you'll see more details. I hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/tCdCZuqjCEk/видео.html
Just a question. Don't these edge bridges have a little rectangular line on the side of the bridge to help you determine if the bridge is level or not?
I just looked and mine does not. Perhaps some do - maybe more people who read your post can comment. Excellent point and thanks for leaving the comment. Alan
Mine RG570 (1991) has that rectangle mark on both sides of bridge.
Great instructions!
But don’t you have to loosen the strings before adjusting the string heights to avoid damaging the knife edges?
Excellent question, thanks for asking! For years, I did this for all of my terms on both the Ibanez and Floyd rose. I always thought that it would dull the knife edge by having the Full string / spring tension. Since then, I have seen many luthiers make adjustments in their videos without reducing the string tension... So, I then purchased this RG-550 and decided why not try making the adjustments to see for myself. I have yet to have any problems and so far, this particular Ibanez has been the best "staying in tune" out of all my trems. Maybe on other bridges it's necessary, but for this particular model bridge, I'm not worried about making height adjustments with full string / spring tension. Cheers! Alan
@@ajlsoundwave, @alexjakian, Be Aware! Never ever adjust the bridge height screws without loosening all the string and spring tension. You can seriously damage the bridge posts and/or the sharp edges if not. It's like cutting very forcefully with a knife into another metal. If that happens it will most likely ruin the minimal contact surfaces and make the guitar not get back in tune after using the whammy bar due to friction at these contact points. To ignore this fact is a serious mistake, trust me. If a real "luthier" would go ahead and do this he is either very lazy and arrogant, or exceptionally ignorant. Have serviced more ruined posts and bridges than I care to remember for the last 35 y, and spare's doesn't come cheap either I'm afraid.
@@lemmy546 Thanks for the feedback, I'm not saying you are correct, but I do appreciate what you have to say and leaving your comment for others to decide what works best for them. Cheers!
@@ajlsoundwave Each and everyone to their own salvation :)
I appreciate your video on tuning Floyd style trems and your gentle attitude. If it wasn't that I liked what you do I wouldn't comment.
I've been doing guitar repairing professionally since 1988 and have worked in several guitar shops as well as being the owner of one. I just wanted to share my experience about something I find problematic. Anyone's choice to play it safe or play the Russian roulette game with their gear.
Cheers mate!
@@lemmy546 It's very important to voice your opinion with your experiences. I appreciate having people like you comment especially if it helps someone out - thanks again for taking the time to watch and especially having your comment / opinion that others can read! Happy trails, Alan
Hi Alan.. I have RG570 (1991) using Edge trem. I accidentally mixed the saddles. Any different between each other, in terms of the thickness? Also it has number under it. Is it for specific position to locate those saddles? Hope you can help. Thank you.
@@pakuandpakis yes, the thickness will be different as follows: string 1&6 will be the thinist "thickness" vs strings 3&4 which will be the thickest. Strings 2&5 will be thicker than 1&2, but not as thick as 3&4. So there are 6 saddles, only 3 different heights as pairs. Does this make sense?
@@ajlsoundwave Alan, thank you so much for the info. It helps a lot! I'm your new subscriber! Thanks again.
@@pakuandpakis Anytime - thx for subscribing and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask / comment!
Nice video. Thanks 👌
Hey mate , thanks for the setup , just one question. İ have Lo Pro Edge, While intonating i saw ,you just loosed one string to intonate it. Arent we risking other strings go sharp and break. İ am always getting scared and loose all of them all the time, even if it is only 1 string to intonate. Thanks a bunch , it helps alot!
In all of my years of playing FR's or Ibanez's... I have never had a problem with having string breakage due to loosening one for intonating. The strings are quite ductile and can withstand quite a bit of abuse... give it a try for yourself! Cheers, Alan
@@ajlsoundwave Cheers and thanks for your effort!
@@Amiga1200_Juicer Right on - if you run into any problems, feel free to reach out !! Alan
If you buy the red bishop tool....intonation is a little easier
@@BillVerdon i have used the allparts version on floyds, will have to check out the red bishop.
@ajlsoundwave yeah... there is also an Ibanez edge zero tool that works for most of these systems... I also own the generic FR tool that is a complete POS
@@BillVerdon I looked up both the ibanez and RB tools... either of these look much better in design than the allparts POS I had used... thanks for posting this; I can def. see getting one of these in my toolbox! Best regards, Alan
These guitars are now a waste of time and money.
Line 6 shuriken is by far superior amongst all guitars out there now.
Not just opinion, facts. (yes it's opinion haha)
Prove me wrong if you want, but you set, forget, and do anything you want model, tuning, string, digitally with software.
I am so happy to be DONE with taking 30 minutes just to setup my guitar.
I am very happy for you in that you found a guitar that you enjoy to play and be creative! Good luck and thanks for stopping by for the chat. Alan
@@ajlsoundwave Thanks brotha! Good advice and setup tricks too!
@@NonnyStrikes thx my friend for the kind words! I def. have to check out the line 6.
Dude, I just checked out the Shuriken - looks / sounds killer. Have you also looked at the Neural dsp "soldano-x" plugin? it too has the ability to control pitch... pretty slick.