Mr. Rosa, about six months ago I was able to buy a The Loar TM-375 that is very similar to the one in this video. It had a typical factory setup. The truss rod was very loose and it took a full turn to snug it up and flatten the fretboard. After marking the Bass end of the bridge, I took it off and shortened the sharp screw heads and contoured the edges of the bridge. Finally, I adjusted the nut with some files. When complete the action was excellent. Still left to do, add felt pads for the tail stop. Thank you for your very helpful and entertaining videos.
I would recommend the Hot Needle test for the nut. Press the hot needle into it and smell the result. Bone should not smell much , Plastic will smell like plastic and also notice the melt-ability of the nut.
you have enough subscribers now I'm sure like me you get flack from a handful no matter how you do things lol it's the nature of the tube lol but we know what works for us no matter what others think. great work as always Jerry!
Jerry, I keep re-watching this as I get ready to do my first string change, I really appreciate what you've shown here as I own the same model mandolin. You may very well see an order coming in for an antler saddle, and maybe an email with a few questions. You've inspired me so much I'm thinking of doing a kit build and if that goes well maybe full builds in the future.
Harbor Freight carry's those allen wrenches with the ball end and they are very good for the cheap price. I use them all the time on my car and other projects and have never had one slip yet.
I like the woods.... & it's not a home made tool, it's a CUSTOM tool! Oooh, the sound! I'm just a sucker for a mandolin! My cousin played from before he was three.
I recently purchased the same Loar you are working on. I had to get the ball-end allen wrench for my first set up. I still had to take my dremel tool to remove some wood around the truss rod nut. You would think that the factory would take just a little more time to make those things right.
Very good! Lot of good tips. Do have a comment on your bone saddles that Ron makes for you. He has been making them long enough now, that he should be doing all this fine tuning. filling all the sharp edges and smooth all the saw marks. your time is to valuable.
I really liked this episode. I've played that model of, "The Loar", well, actually plucked and noodled one, at Sam Ash. It was really nice. The only reason why I knew about it was because of you Jerry. I learn so much from you and Randy Shartinger.
Sounds better. It’s louder, has better sustain and it is a little clearer. You said you weren’t going to mess with the nut, but with all the filing you did to get it set up correctly you wound up “messing” with it quite a bit.
Hey Jerry. I know this is an old video, but still enjoyed it. Fyi: I set up two identica celll phones with same audio settings. Compared before and after. Big difference. It almost seemed like two totally different instruments. Another awesome job.
Very good, as always Jerry. Coincidentally, I purchased the same mandolin. I had it set up with new D'adario ej74. It sounds pretty good, even in my hands.
I did the trig to figure out how deep the crown is if you see a .020" flat and it is in the sixth decimal place of an inch. A little sanding makes a perfect radius.
That was a nice intro. Enjoyed listening to you play, even though the instrument needed some work. Great job explaining the procedures as you went along. Great improvement in sound, after tuneup!
Jerry please don't let trolls get to you. I could hear some discontent in your voice. I hate that for you. I myself love your work I love your playing and have enjoyed you since you started on RUclips. Thank you sir. It would not matter how good you are Jerry. You could be Jesus himself and some idiot would complain. Thank again.
Another excellent video. I'm not well versed in the mandolin servicing but you seem to make it look easy. I do acoustic and electric guitars and can relate to what your doing!
Hey, Jerry...Good to see (and learn) a few new tricks that I can apply to my "practice guitars." Hope that you've been able to whittle down your work list a tiny bit. :>
I just purchased a Loar F-Style mandolin. Loar does specify a bone nut as you suspected. For the amount of money I paid for the mando ... I would expect that much instead of plastic.
Jerry, we know what you mean by "not '45-ing' the edge of the fret", but the term is "chamfer". That's both a noun and a verb. So you are avoiding "chamfering" the edge of the frets. And "rounding" the edge is fine, but it has a name also, if one wants to be particular. It's called "fillet". So you are "filleting" the edges of the frets. Just a little metalworking terminology.
560 is rubbery. It is great for joining plastic. It seems to work like denture cream. I have had it skin over, and never cure inside. Here the wood would probably suck out liquid, and that would not happen. Not my choice for a nut.
I don't make my fretboards perfectly flat. I don't work on mandolins, but it works for banjos and guitars. You need more space int the middle because that is where the strings move the most. That way you can put the strings a little lower for a little easier fingering. Please keep those snips away from the strings and don't snip them off. Twist them off so you don't have those sharp ends to cut our fingers. I have been stabbed too many times and then I don't have to worry about any kids getting wounded.
Mandolins are a little different than guitars you don't need much relief in a mandolin. I cut the strings off flush with the post so they don't stick up at all.
Hi Jerry, another great instructional video. Interesting on how you wrap the strings. Do you do guitars that way as well? Or just Mandos? For your final fret buff/Sanding.. have you ever tried 000 steel wool?? It’s a little messier.. but it makes the frets glass smooth. I like your little brush you use to clean up the fretboard. where did you get that if you don’t mind me asking.
Well if you don't like the tool you've made,for filing your frets. Don't use it. Swearing does not make you bigger Mr Rosa. great clip tippy toppy top topper.
Mr. Rosa. Superb videos. In your opinion does the Washburn 31mm wide nut play easier than the Loar? I am looking at purchasing the Washburn 118skw or The Loar LM 600. They are both China made and claim to be solid wood. I would appreciate your thoughts if any.
I really don't know that I could give an opinion on that. I really think it would depend on the specific instrument and how it feels. Good luck to you I hope you pick a winner.
I totally agree with your thoughts on the nut. It's like saying that the launch pad has a lot of influence to the flight of the rocket. Have you read my email yet? Please do . Thank you. :)
Lovely Workmanship Jerry as usual Sir. I was wondering if this Loar you are working on here has the same size Hexagon Allen Key as a the Loar 520E-VS ?? I recently purchased a new 520E-VS, (8 months ago) It needs the thrust rod tighten just a tad.what size is the Allan key did you use on this one? Also. was it a "Ball type"Head that you have?? ty Sir, 100-100
You’re absolutely right about the nut, but if a customer wants you to replace it notwithstanding the logic behind (which you explained)... What do you care?
I imagine it depends on the original communication with the customer. He is making his hourly rate whether off this job or the next one in line. If he can save this customer some money, it is not costing him anything and goes a long way in maintaining his customer relations. He has more work than he can handle as it is.
As far as a finish, flax oil will go rancid on the wood. You need either boiled or polymerized linseed oil to prevent that. The boiled has dryers in it while the polymerized doesn't but has been boiled in an oxygen depleted environment to alter the properties. So, if you're squirrelly about the dryers in boiled linseed, Tried and True is the way to go.
@@mandolinman2006 I realize the flax oil will go rancid and have an odor for a while but will it harm the wood? I've use it on cutting boards and rolling pins, etc. without any problems. Should I be worried?
@@papaw5405 That I don't know. Every woodworker told me not to do it, so I didn't. I figured they knew something I didn't. I know in some situations it can cause mold/mildew and rotting when it comes to fabrics. That's one reason they use boiled for oil cloth.
Linseeds are the source for flax and linseed oil. The linseed oil is used in wood finishing, beacuse the chemical structure of the oil is changed. It has been polyimerized. This allows the linseed oil dry into a wood finish. The flax seed will not dry, and then may become gummy. A small amount of Japan Drier will allow it to polyimerized, but the you just have linseed oil. It would be raw though.
Why not do away the conventional nut and go for a zero fret? It then sounds the same as if it's fretted. Any reason why not....much easier than cutting a nut.
Those ball end wrenches are a life saver when the odd scenario hits..
Good morning all from Warrenton Mo
Jerry the playing at the end has more definition and clarity. Great job as always. Peace and love from Bonny Scotland.
I can tell the action is better by how much better you played it the finale time. And it sounds more bassy to me. Sounds nice has a good tone.
Mr. Rosa, about six months ago I was able to buy a The Loar TM-375 that is very similar to the one in this video. It had a typical factory setup. The truss rod was very loose and it took a full turn to snug it up and flatten the fretboard. After marking the Bass end of the bridge, I took it off and shortened the sharp screw heads and contoured the edges of the bridge. Finally, I adjusted the nut with some files. When complete the action was excellent. Still left to do, add felt pads for the tail stop. Thank you for your very helpful and entertaining videos.
I would recommend the Hot Needle test for the nut. Press the hot needle into it and smell the result. Bone should not smell much , Plastic will smell like plastic and also notice the melt-ability of the nut.
you have enough subscribers now I'm sure like me you get flack from a handful no matter how you do things lol it's the nature of the tube lol but we know what works for us no matter what others think. great work as always Jerry!
Jerry, I keep re-watching this as I get ready to do my first string change, I really appreciate what you've shown here as I own the same model mandolin. You may very well see an order coming in for an antler saddle, and maybe an email with a few questions. You've inspired me so much I'm thinking of doing a kit build and if that goes well maybe full builds in the future.
Harbor Freight carry's those allen wrenches with the ball end and they are very good for the cheap price. I use them all the time on my car and other projects and have never had one slip yet.
Great solution to string breakage at post holes...Nice work..
I like the woods.... & it's not a home made tool, it's a CUSTOM tool! Oooh, the sound! I'm just a sucker for a mandolin!
My cousin played from before he was three.
It must be a pleasure to invest time in improving the sound of a fine instrument that is already in good repair.
LOL I had the same problem with the truss rod, and the same kind of allen wrench so I........used the other end of the wrench. It worked just fine.
I recently purchased the same Loar you are working on. I had to get the ball-end allen wrench for my first set up. I still had to take my dremel tool to remove some wood around the truss rod nut. You would think that the factory would take just a little more time to make those things right.
Thanks for the commentary on the NUT. Players often spend tons on those things.
Very good! Lot of good tips. Do have a comment on your bone saddles that Ron makes for you. He has been making them long enough now, that he should be doing all this fine tuning. filling all the sharp edges and smooth all the saw marks. your time is to valuable.
definitive difference listening with headphones, punchier and brighter with more sustain.
Sounds really good
I really liked this episode. I've played that model of, "The Loar", well, actually plucked and noodled one, at Sam Ash. It was really nice. The only reason why I knew about it was because of you Jerry. I learn so much from you and Randy Shartinger.
Sounds better. It’s louder, has better sustain and it is a little clearer. You said you weren’t going to mess with the nut, but with all the filing you did to get it set up correctly you wound up “messing” with it quite a bit.
But a whole lot less than you would if you built it from scratch.
Hey Jerry. I know this is an old video, but still enjoyed it. Fyi: I set up two identica celll phones with same audio settings. Compared before and after. Big difference. It almost seemed like two totally different instruments. Another awesome job.
Very good, as always Jerry. Coincidentally, I purchased the same mandolin. I had it set up with new D'adario ej74. It sounds pretty good, even in my hands.
That mandolin sounds pretty darn good, great job as always!
It definitely sounds better after the setup. Your mandolins are better sounding and better looking too.
Love the Red Wing cover!
I did the trig to figure out how deep the crown is if you see a .020" flat and it is in the sixth decimal place of an inch. A little sanding makes a perfect radius.
Yep that's what I think.
Great Video Jerry 👍🙂🇬🇧
That was a nice intro. Enjoyed listening to you play, even though the instrument needed some work. Great job explaining the procedures as you went along. Great improvement in sound, after tuneup!
Over here in Ireland "a fraction of a hair" is no good to us. We have to be 'spot on!'
I really enjoy watching your videos. Great job again!
Jerry please don't let trolls get to you. I could hear some discontent in your voice. I hate that for you. I myself love your work I love your playing and have enjoyed you since you started on RUclips. Thank you sir. It would not matter how good you are Jerry. You could be Jesus himself and some idiot would complain. Thank again.
You are a true craftsman!
Hey Jerry a true Craftsman very nice video and once again a great job take care my friend
Thanks many and many, and more, Master !!! i learn many things in yours vidéos !!! GOOD !!!
I was taught a Frogs hair is as fine as a man can measure by eye LOL Great Video This one is extremely helpful Thanks for sharing it...
Another excellent video. I'm not well versed in the mandolin servicing but you seem to make it look easy. I do acoustic and electric guitars and can relate to what your doing!
sounds way better
Hey, Jerry...Good to see (and learn) a few new tricks that I can apply to my "practice guitars." Hope that you've been able to whittle down your work list a tiny bit. :>
I could actually hear the burrs get filed off when you were filing off the string holes. Great filming Jerry !!! Kudoes to you !!
Always much nicer to play a well set up instrument. Nice one Jerry.
Great Lesson, Once Again!
I've got a Loar that needs that setup.
Love the videos, Jerry
Wonderful Jerry 👍😃
I just purchased a Loar F-Style mandolin. Loar does specify a bone nut as you suspected. For the amount of money I paid for the mando ... I would expect that much instead of plastic.
EXCELLENT VIDEO AND GREAT DETAIL ON YOUR FIXIN!! 100---100 GREAT SETUP TY
great tips Mr Rosa, turned out great.
I made my own after seeing your, works great.
I agree...it was good before. A lot more volume and greater sound.
Thanks for the lessons.
As always, I’ve enjoyed your video!
Ha! If you fret a note the nut doesn't even come into play. So obvious yet such a revelation!
WOW, I was the first viewer. That doesn’t happen often. Another great video, Jerry. Thanks!
The Loar's all come with a bone nut.
Not a fan of satin (dull) finishes
But they didn’t ask me
Anyway, great job!
Outstanding as always Jerry! It really does sound better.
Jerry, we know what you mean by "not '45-ing' the edge of the fret", but the term is "chamfer". That's both a noun and a verb. So you are avoiding "chamfering" the edge of the frets. And "rounding" the edge is fine, but it has a name also, if one wants to be particular. It's called "fillet". So you are "filleting" the edges of the frets.
Just a little metalworking terminology.
LOOOOOOOL The “hair” measurement 😂😂😂😂😂
560 is rubbery. It is great for joining plastic. It seems to work like denture cream.
I have had it skin over, and never cure inside.
Here the wood would probably suck out liquid, and that would not happen.
Not my choice for a nut.
Another troll bites the dust. :-) Good stuff. Thanks, Jerry.
Jerry my measurement for thickness is "the size of a gnats todger" Imperial measurement obviously:-)
I don't make my fretboards perfectly flat. I don't work on mandolins, but it works for banjos and guitars. You need more space int the middle because that is where the strings move the most. That way you can put the strings a little lower for a little easier fingering. Please keep those snips away from the strings and don't snip them off. Twist them off so you don't have those sharp ends to cut our fingers. I have been stabbed too many times and then I don't have to worry about any kids getting wounded.
Mandolins are a little different than guitars you don't need much relief in a mandolin. I cut the strings off flush with the post so they don't stick up at all.
Yes ouch. I'm gonna do the snipping flush with the post next time. I never knew about twisting off, but wouldn't mind trying that also.
Next up from a "Fraction of a hair" is a "hair", then a "hair hair and a half". I thought that was adopted just after WWII. Hmmm...Regards, Solomon
Love your work Jerry - your skills are very impressive. So, do you write all your own jokes? 🙃
Thanks for showing your fret file. I have wondered where you got it and what it was. Did you use epoxy to adhere it to the wood?
Or in the ball park of an eight of a thou.!
I fear loosening strings and then retightning. I've ran into a guitar that used to do that . Gave me ptsd .
Drop it on a hard table. If it rings it's bone. If it just clicks then it's plastic.
Hi Jerry, another great instructional video. Interesting on how you wrap the strings. Do you do guitars that way as well? Or just Mandos?
For your final fret buff/Sanding.. have you ever tried 000 steel wool?? It’s a little messier.. but it makes the frets glass smooth. I like your little brush you use to clean up the fretboard. where did you get that if you don’t mind me asking.
Well if you don't like the tool you've made,for filing your frets. Don't use it. Swearing does not make you bigger Mr Rosa. great clip tippy toppy top topper.
Great video! The finish on the mandolin is a little flat, would you suggest adding some wax and a buffing?
Wax never hurts them that's for sure
In Germany we say to a fraction of a hair: "Muckeseckele"..........;-)
Back in the swing, eh?
Mr. Rosa. Superb videos. In your opinion does the Washburn 31mm wide nut play easier than the Loar? I am looking at purchasing the Washburn 118skw or The Loar LM 600. They are both China made and claim to be solid wood. I would appreciate your thoughts if any.
I really don't know that I could give an opinion on that. I really think it would depend on the specific instrument and how it feels. Good luck to you I hope you pick a winner.
I totally agree with your thoughts on the nut. It's like saying that the launch pad has a lot of influence to the flight of the rocket. Have you read my email yet? Please do . Thank you. :)
Awesome video whats tge name od the sonf you pky? Keep it up rock on
Lovely Workmanship Jerry as usual Sir. I was wondering if this Loar you are working on here has the same size Hexagon Allen Key as a the Loar 520E-VS ?? I recently purchased a new 520E-VS, (8 months ago) It needs the thrust rod tighten just a tad.what size is the Allan key did you use on this one? Also. was it a "Ball type"Head that you have?? ty Sir, 100-100
Sorry all my Allen wrenches are just loose in a little box so I don't know what size it was. And I don't have a ball end..
Ok thank you Sir!,@@RosaStringWorks
Is the bridge post a wood or metal screw? Would the other end be able to be filed instead of removing the screw slot?
Would like to have your opinion of the new Epiphone MM-40L Masterbilt (their spelling) if you should come across one. - Thanks
You’re absolutely right about the nut, but if a customer wants you to replace it notwithstanding the logic behind (which you explained)... What do you care?
I don't I just watch out for my customers
Rosa String Works And you’re right!! But if they really want you to do it, it’s their money after all. That’s what I meant.
I think the customer will be thrilled. It raises Jerry in my opinion, but I already knew he was honorable.
Jenn Hill Indeed he is.
I imagine it depends on the original communication with the customer. He is making his hourly rate whether off this job or the next one in line. If he can save this customer some money, it is not costing him anything and goes a long way in maintaining his customer relations. He has more work than he can handle as it is.
I meant 275?
Looks like its' a "Loar unto it's self"?
Can I use food grade flaxseed oil in place of linseed oil? It's the same animal, as they say, but I don't know about the boiled part.
Sorry I don't know anything about that.
As far as a finish, flax oil will go rancid on the wood. You need either boiled or polymerized linseed oil to prevent that. The boiled has dryers in it while the polymerized doesn't but has been boiled in an oxygen depleted environment to alter the properties. So, if you're squirrelly about the dryers in boiled linseed, Tried and True is the way to go.
@@mandolinman2006 I realize the flax oil will go rancid and have an odor for a while but will it harm the wood? I've use it on cutting boards and rolling pins, etc. without any problems. Should I be worried?
@@papaw5405 That I don't know. Every woodworker told me not to do it, so I didn't. I figured they knew something I didn't. I know in some situations it can cause mold/mildew and rotting when it comes to fabrics. That's one reason they use boiled for oil cloth.
Linseeds are the source for flax and linseed oil. The linseed oil is used in wood finishing, beacuse the chemical structure of the oil is changed. It has been polyimerized. This allows the linseed oil dry into a wood finish. The flax seed will not dry, and then may become gummy. A small amount of Japan Drier will allow it to polyimerized, but the you just have linseed oil. It would be raw though.
Why not do away the conventional nut and go for a zero fret? It then sounds the same as if it's fretted. Any reason why not....much easier than cutting a nut.
What was the price for that?
Don't remember. At that time I think I was charging $60 an hour. Most things are done much faster than they appear on video.
Did you know that the hand with the thumb pointing up is the whack-a-troll button?
Why do they always use a crappy tailpiece on mandolin’s
a guitar will not stay in tune if the nut slots are cut too tight...
Rub it on your teeth, like real pearls and bone both have a sandy feel to them.... plastic is smooth.
AAA grade
You really must stop this self harm fetish... this time it's your left index finger - 175 it's the right?
this little thing make you very upset , isn't it ?
I don't think anything upset me on this.
great 😁
Bye the way you index finger looks like you smashed it with something and I pray you are not in discomfort!!!!!