@@selcukcebeciii the price is the same all over the world. It's actually one of the most affordable programs on the market. Remember we employ over 50 people that work on this every Day. But its made for professional workshops, it's alot of money for a DIY.
A simpel “hand check” job, technical and electronical confirmed. Cause of internal coolant leakage the solenoid got stuck. It can melt the windings, or it can blow the windings(just a single winding-wire) so it has a closed loop or open loop. Again a great job and clear explained!
nice video Dan! this is a common problem on these valves.. they tend to leak coolant inside and burn without any error codes... it is common on all BMWs E46;E53;E83 and other models ranging from early 2000 s till 2006. it happens to be also common on Range Rovers from 2003 till 2006 with BMW engine and parts...
Easily one of the best channels on youtube, very informative for anyone in the automotive trade. Put some rubber hose or two sockets on the needle nose pliers. Less chance of damaging the coolant pipe.
As usual common sense diagnosis . I am helped by a knowledge of vehicles that had no modules . I for the last 22 years have needed dealer level software to be able to own BMW. Well done you.
This Car is an import from Japan, ( i know the steering wheel is on the left, but apperently it's fashionable to drive European cars with the steering wheel on the left in Japan) i had never seen it before, so i looked it up. It's a voltage sabilizer.
You are truly doing things the right way. You are not the typical parts changer. But at what point do you just feel the heater hose and say "just order the solenoid valve"
DAN!!! Another great video. World class at your craft and world class at helping others become world class as well. Nice touch showing you aren’t perfect either. Wishing you millions of views and much success. DIAGNOSE DAN FIX IT AGAIN!!!
am very happy to see someone pointing the mistakes and not cut them on edit or hide that they never do mistakes!!! keep going strong with your educational videos
Thought you'd given up on us Dan! Nice to see you back, great vid, great beard. I reckon thats what is was, can't come on the screen with a teenagers bumfluff eh!
general german quality. I never had such a problem with japanese cars. Still, it is cool he diagnosed it than replacing the whole control unit. Nice job!
I normally pause every now and than. And i delete the screwups🤣 It's actually easier for editing if you got multiple smaller scènes. You than don't have to go thru the entire video again when editing and cut out all the boring bits.
I see. Using the iPad editing software I’ve found it faster to not waste time pausing, moving back and forth etc and just keep going then cut the bad sections on a once thru of the video later.
Love the blooper reel. Your videos are very informative. Enjoy watching them and learning different techniques on how to diagnose problems and fixing them.
as a result of these being a common problem in many bmw's, there are also "kits" being sold to replace all the seals, plungers o rings etc, they're range from $15/20, just remove the 2 top solenoid parts, open and replace all the rubbers, and plungers, clamp hoses before you start
Love your work Dan. It's great how you prove your theories, both mechanically and electrically. Most people never think it could also be a control problem. In this case it wasn't but it can happen. It's a shame that BMW don't use quality rubber in their manufacture. Rubber rot should be a thing of the past not with all the modern tech we have. Nice job !
Always waiting for a new episode. This is perfect timing as my e61 has virtually the same issue with the heat/AC . I thought it might be the heater valves failing. My vehicle is a 2008 535 XI and was dreading how much I would have to take apart to repair mine. Will have to watch this a few times to get all the help I can get. Thanks.
There are rebuild kits available on the internet. They are not expensive. Maybe you should consider changing the seals before you need to replace the entire assembly.
Dan,you should tell first if this car has blend doors actuators.That valve would be a problem only in winter time in case is stuck closed providing no heat inside the car.Unless the evaporator and the heater core stay together inside the heater box/dash ,it should not be a problem.That heater valve ,i think ,only is there in some vehicles to provide max a/c function isolating any heat source from the dash to the evaporator to provide the max cooling effect.I dont know this particular car but i never saw one without a blend door to select between hot and cold temp inside .Other than that it's a great video as always.
Great diagnostic as always , one of your followers and in love with the way you proceed with those diagnostics , thanks for sharing those fixes , am a technician too but im more experienced with Toyota car's , cuz im from a country called mauritania in west africa and we have more Toyota car's on the road than any others , sometimes i have people bringing some audi and Mercedes and vw cars , but we just can't do that much , especially when it comes to a problem without a DTC to help us , sorry for the long comment , but once i had this mercedes benz c220 BLUETEC brinned by one of my customers , he said he just stopped the car and when he came back to start it , the engine continue to crank without starting , after trying to start the car few times and cheked all fuses and relays , the car had this p0340 standing for a cam error , i disconnected the cam sensor connector and checked the voltage to the pins , everything seemed fine for me , a good ground , a 5v signal wire on the middle ,and a 5v power feed on the last one , crancked the car with the sensor disconnected , the car started right away , i changed the cam sensor and everytime that i connect the connector the car come back to a crank no start condition , i just stopped there cuz i had no experience with those car's , any idea Dan ?
Good to see you back Dan ..we have a system.like that on Dutch trucks and it's valve has had some problems .but when it fails it doesn't generate a fault code .the trainers highlighted that part to us..possibly the bmw is the same
Hi Dan - new subscriber from the UK here - I joined after seeing your vid on the Z4 roof problems. Brilliant videos thanks - you explain everything really well. Cheers!
Had a similar problem with a Ford F250 Truck, blows hot air even with temp control set to cold setting! Replaced a defective heater box air blend door actuator and problem solvved, ditto no error codes! On this system hot water flows continuuously through the heater core, temp is controlled with directing air away from it for cold and AC operation through evaporator core!
@@Diagnosedan Don't even wanna think about that. Still that you are a lucky man..., getting to do what you love and managing to pay those bills in the process. That's mostly the part i am a litlle envious about. Like said before..., waiting for another of them clips.
Interesting a heater matrix coolant control valve is installed. When I worked on cars it was common to have an air control flap you decided how much if any flowed over the heater core which was constantly hot. When you went back further there was a mechanical valve for controlling the coolant flow through the heater matrix. Austin 1100 Mini etc. these where mechanical controlled by a cable but the commonly jammed. I suppose with dual circuit climate control and air con and electronic control it’s cheaper and easier to use what looks like stepper motor technology. By the look of those valves I bet it’s a common fault. The Dealers shelves will be stacked with them!
Yes is the answer to your question, the coolant went past the seal and causes corrosion at the coil winding, I have changed many ford valves but not many BMW one's.
I don't know the spec for BMW but Mercedes uses basically the same valves and the spec is 10-15 Ohm per winding. Pretty sure its the same here. The winding is made from insulated wire. Maybe the point you probed at was the insulated part and didn't get a reading because of that. Good work as usual Dan!
My first thaughts when you said both sides were stuck oppen was someone had put rad seal in the system but when you took thos valves appart they changed to water pump lubricant because of a squeaky water pump or perhaps some oil getting into the coolant system as the rubber seals looked swollen as well as brocken.
I had a similar problem with a different cause on a Mercedes W220 that I bought in 2015, I test drove it on a warm day and had all the windows open to let the heat out thinking it was just because I hadn't worked out how to use the aircon controls. It turned out that the cabin heat sensor in the overhead control panel had a broken wire and was pumping in heat thinking the interior was cold, Mercedes wanted £400 plus for an new unit as they don't sell components. so back home and few strands of fine wire and some solder fixed it and it's still working today.
Great video Dan! DDTSB is now invaluable to me I use it every day in the workshop helps a lot thank you, Dan. The education side says coming soon, cant wait to start using that too. Hope you enjoy the rest of your day. :)
Good work as usual Dan. 👍🏻 I also noticed on several occasions you say the valve could be stuck "half open" ... I'm just wondering, could it of actually been possible that the valve was stuck 'half closed'? 😁
Be it electronic or vacuum, those heater core bypass valves are a constant source of leaks and other issues for me when working on cars equipped with them. Thankfully, when only controlled with vacuum, on cars with a proper hot/cold blend door, it doesn't hurt anything to take them out and pitch them in the garbage.
My cars different uses a blend door to cover the heater core side when I don’t want hot air but the coolants always circulating through the heater core
If you want to have acces to Diagnosedan TSB go to DDTSB.COM
Hı. Ddtsb.com is good. But the price for Turkiye is very expensive. i'm not proffessional mechanic. 3600 TRY very much for us.
@@selcukcebeciii the price is the same all over the world. It's actually one of the most affordable programs on the market. Remember we employ over 50 people that work on this every Day. But its made for professional workshops, it's alot of money for a DIY.
@@Diagnosedan I'm very upset.
i ave one question to you. ds150 jytech osiloscope is enough for diy?
aaaaaaah new video
Thank yoy very much
Im from lraq how to buy or longin to your TSB
1:03 my whole body clenched up watching how close the wheels got to the ramp arm
Same hahah
hopefully just CGI!
Same here, almost totalled customers wheel!
DD can fix it....
He will have to pay for it ,but he can fix it(:
I specifically looked to see if someone else noticed! 😂
Finally... new video from dan the man
Thanks for watching 👍
If the circuit was open, I wonder why it didn’t have a code
Great video by the way, thank you👍🏼👍🏼
A simpel “hand check” job, technical and electronical confirmed. Cause of internal coolant leakage the solenoid got stuck. It can melt the windings, or it can blow the windings(just a single winding-wire) so it has a closed loop or open loop. Again a great job and clear explained!
Thanks for watching Bertus!
This should be number 1 automotive Channel on RUclips
😍😍
Nice diag and repair Dan! Nice to see solenoid tear down also. I always like to know how it really works by seeing whats inside.
Thanks!
Dan, so good to see you after almost a month. As always, a pleasure seeing you solve the puzzle and not forgetting the bloopers 😂. Thank you.
My pleasure!
nice video Dan!
this is a common problem on these valves.. they tend to leak coolant inside and burn without any error codes... it is common on all BMWs E46;E53;E83 and other models ranging from early 2000 s till 2006. it happens to be also common on Range Rovers from 2003 till 2006 with BMW engine and parts...
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Welcome back to the RUclips thingy, Dan! It' been too long since your last video. Glad to see you're still here.
I've been a bit busy😁
@@Diagnosedan happy to hear that.
Always look forward to your new videos, lots of fun and information.
Thanks!
Easily one of the best channels on youtube, very informative for anyone in the automotive trade. Put some rubber hose or two sockets on the needle nose pliers. Less chance of damaging the coolant pipe.
Thanks for watching!
Just watched Scanner Danner.... then notification from Diagnose Dan.....getting my fix!
Me too!
An evening of great YouTubing
Scanner danner is awsome 👍👍
That's what's happened to me just now
I wish Dan can upload more, but his knowledge and how he works I bet he is one of the most successful people I his area
I wish i could upload more often, but i'm so busy!
Always looks so simple, you make a great teacher/tutor
Thank you
As usual common sense diagnosis .
I am helped by a knowledge of vehicles that had no modules . I for the last 22 years have needed dealer level software to be able to own BMW. Well done you.
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment it's appriciated 👍
Hi Dan, INQUIRY: What is that blue thing/cadget connected to the positive terminal? What is its purpose?
Probably a switch for a secondary battery for camping (Because NL), or part of a sound install.
This Car is an import from Japan, ( i know the steering wheel is on the left, but apperently it's fashionable to drive European cars with the steering wheel on the left in Japan) i had never seen it before, so i looked it up. It's a voltage sabilizer.
Diagnostic Dan's the boss professionally trained and plenty of experience great vids and tuition ideal for young apprentices.
Thanks for the comment!
Your welcome Dan hope your all well. I added you on my Facebook page. 😉👍👍
Bro! The beard! Looking GOOD!
Norse mode!
Absolutely!
Thanks! I was afraid you guys wouldn't recognize me anymore😁
@@Diagnosedan who are you? 🧐
You are truly doing things the right way. You are not the typical parts changer. But at what point do you just feel the heater hose and say "just order the solenoid valve"
Best automotive channel on the internet!
😍😍😍
DAN!!! Another great video. World class at your craft and world class at helping others become world class as well. Nice touch showing you aren’t perfect either. Wishing you millions of views and much success. DIAGNOSE DAN FIX IT AGAIN!!!
Thanks for the great comment it's appriciated 👍
I ve been waiting for ages man , thank you so mush for the content you put on here , you’re a legend
Thanks!!!
i am a technician and i learned a lot from your video
That's great Carmen!
Love that engine sound ! Pro as always !
V8💪
It's so nice to see a car with a valve not some crap blend door or whatever new car's use and to add to that it's so nice to see a new video from Dan.
Thanks Neil
“Diagnose Dan puts it in upside down again” Lol
And i cant get it out, ouchie lol
🙈🙈🙈
@@Diagnosedan dodgy english humour with a hint of .... lol
Well ,you know if you don't do anything, you can't make mistakes either. Errare humanum est ignoscere divinum ;)
it looked right from here in Australia!
Thank you for helping the people with this vehicle Dan. As you said, it's not worth much, but to them it's worth a great deal. Well done sir!
am very happy to see someone pointing the mistakes and not cut them on edit or hide that they never do mistakes!!! keep going strong with your educational videos
Thought you'd given up on us Dan! Nice to see you back, great vid, great beard. I reckon thats what is was, can't come on the screen with a teenagers bumfluff eh!
No, i've just been busy😁
Dan is back! Those valves last about 10 years. When they start to go bad you can hear groaning noises coming from the dashboard.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Great vid😁👍 By the way, that is quite a collection of snap-on tools😁
A collected alot over the years😁
Those damn tabs Dan! Those G Damn Tabs!!! Way to go buddy. You are my friend.
general german quality. I never had such a problem with japanese cars. Still, it is cool he diagnosed it than replacing the whole control unit. Nice job!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Dan i like the way you always make short video and makes it more informative
Thanks Hans
Dan, don’t you just leave it on record and tie the good parts together when editing afterward?
I normally pause every now and than. And i delete the screwups🤣 It's actually easier for editing if you got multiple smaller scènes. You than don't have to go thru the entire video again when editing and cut out all the boring bits.
I see. Using the iPad editing software I’ve found it faster to not waste time pausing, moving back and forth etc and just keep going then cut the bad sections on a once thru of the video later.
Love the blooper reel. Your videos are very informative. Enjoy watching them and learning different techniques on how to diagnose problems and fixing them.
That's great to hear Steven
I wish I could grow a beard like yours. GREAT VIDEO AS USUAL!!! And yes, I am YELLING.
🤣🤣🤣 I CAN'T HEAR YOU🤣😉
Well done on showing your mistake and not editing it out! You are human after all Dan! Good video.
Simon🤣🤣
An e53 still on the road, owned by somebody with enough money to bring it to a mechanic? That's pretty incredible by itself
🤣🤣
Diagnose Dan is great knowledge that I increase my technical know how.
I think Dan needs to diagnose why his shaver isn't working 🤔
No fault found, works as it should!
Stops him looking like Al Murry
🤣🤣👍
as a result of these being a common problem in many bmw's, there are also "kits" being sold to replace all the seals, plungers o rings etc, they're range from $15/20, just remove the 2 top solenoid parts, open and replace all the rubbers, and plungers, clamp hoses before you start
Yes you were lucky you didn’t ruin the tire backing out
😁👍
Lucky or skilled?😁
Good to see you posting again Dan. Another great video. Thanks
Thanks Dale
Love your work Dan. It's great how you prove your theories, both mechanically and electrically. Most people never think it could also be a control problem. In this case it wasn't but it can happen.
It's a shame that BMW don't use quality rubber in their manufacture. Rubber rot should be a thing of the past not with all the modern tech we have.
Nice job !
Do remember it's an old Car😁 Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment it's appriciated 👍
DAN YOU ARE THE MAN!! THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEOS, THEY HELP US BEGINNERS!!!
ARE YOU SCREAMING?🤣🤣
@@Diagnosedan LOL
Love the bloopers after a good days work
Another great video hope you and all the family are keeping safe in these strange times!!👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Lee, i wish the same for you and yours
Always waiting for a new episode. This is perfect timing as my e61 has virtually the same issue with the heat/AC . I thought it might be the heater valves failing. My vehicle is a 2008 535 XI and was dreading how much I would have to take apart to repair mine. Will have to watch this a few times to get all the help I can get.
Thanks.
There are rebuild kits available on internet!
I've got the same heater valves in my cars... thanks for the heads-up!
There are rebuild kits available on the internet. They are not expensive. Maybe you should consider changing the seals before you need to replace the entire assembly.
@@Diagnosedan Good advice, thanks!
Dan you are amazing my friend I love and I seriously enjoy your videos a lot. Thank you for your time and for your experience.
Dan,you should tell first if this car has blend doors actuators.That valve would be a problem only in winter time in case is stuck closed providing no heat inside the car.Unless the evaporator and the heater core stay together inside the heater box/dash ,it should not be a problem.That heater valve ,i think ,only is there in some vehicles to provide max a/c function isolating any heat source from the dash to the evaporator to provide the max cooling effect.I dont know this particular car but i never saw one without a blend door to select between hot and cold temp inside .Other than that it's a great video as always.
Great diagnostic as always , one of your followers and in love with the way you proceed with those diagnostics , thanks for sharing those fixes , am a technician too but im more experienced with Toyota car's , cuz im from a country called mauritania in west africa and we have more Toyota car's on the road than any others , sometimes i have people bringing some audi and Mercedes and vw cars , but we just can't do that much , especially when it comes to a problem without a DTC to help us , sorry for the long comment , but once i had this mercedes benz c220 BLUETEC brinned by one of my customers , he said he just stopped the car and when he came back to start it , the engine continue to crank without starting , after trying to start the car few times and cheked all fuses and relays , the car had this p0340 standing for a cam error , i disconnected the cam sensor connector and checked the voltage to the pins , everything seemed fine for me , a good ground , a 5v signal wire on the middle ,and a 5v power feed on the last one , crancked the car with the sensor disconnected , the car started right away , i changed the cam sensor and everytime that i connect the connector the car come back to a crank no start condition , i just stopped there cuz i had no experience with those car's , any idea Dan ?
If you disconnect the cam sensor the PCM looks at the crank sensor for timing by default. Maybe there was something wrong with the tone ring
@@Diagnosedan thanks for the reply teacher
thanks
i watched all your channel videos
That's great!
Good to see you back Dan ..we have a system.like that on Dutch trucks and it's valve has had some problems .but when it fails it doesn't generate a fault code .the trainers highlighted that part to us..possibly the bmw is the same
Maybe😁
Thank you for coming back Dan, always enjoy your content and humor!!!
That's great to hear Roxanne
Been a while, good to have you back!😃😀😉👍
Thanks James
Man, you've made my day. I'd like to see more of your vids but I think they're worth waiting for so long.
Thank you 😁
Dan,hello again!
Never give up,and fix a problem!
Great advise!
It’s amazing the way you diagnose the problem good job 👍
Thank you
Great video Dan! I've gotta get one of those thermal imagers, but I don't need to add on to my already oversized snapon bill!
I told my Snapon Guy, i'm planning of living very long🤣 That's to ensure him the bills are payed before i die🤣🤣
Hi Dan - new subscriber from the UK here - I joined after seeing your vid on the Z4 roof problems. Brilliant videos thanks - you explain everything really well. Cheers!
Always Nice to welcome a new Subscriber! Thanks for watching it's appriciated 👍
Had a similar problem with a Ford F250 Truck, blows hot air even with temp control set to cold setting! Replaced a defective heater box air blend door actuator and problem solvved, ditto no error codes!
On this system hot water flows continuuously through the heater core, temp is controlled with directing air away from it for cold and AC operation through evaporator core!
where you been Dan!. so happy watch your videos. Thank's for share your knowledge with us. 👏👏👏
My pleasure, glad you like my video's
You're making this job easy for us thank's Dan.
You are welcome 👍
On top of diagnosing.., great teaching skills
Thanks Dan, although i'm starting to feel a bit envious about the set of tools.
Keep it up man!
I guess your not envious of my tool bills🤣🤣
@@Diagnosedan Don't even wanna think about that.
Still that you are a lucky man..., getting to do what you love and managing to pay those bills in the process.
That's mostly the part i am a litlle envious about.
Like said before..., waiting for another of them clips.
Another great video Dan! Strange that the brains didn't pick up on this problem, and even more stand that those seals failed as they did.
Thanks for watching 😀
Another great diagnosis and fix.. love the bloopers.. you're too cool 😎
Thank you very much it's appriciated 👍
Interesting a heater matrix coolant control valve is installed. When I worked on cars it was common to have an air control flap you decided how much if any flowed over the heater core which was constantly hot. When you went back further there was a mechanical valve for controlling the coolant flow through the heater matrix. Austin 1100 Mini etc. these where mechanical controlled by a cable but the commonly jammed. I suppose with dual circuit climate control and air con and electronic control it’s cheaper and easier to use what looks like stepper motor technology. By the look of those valves I bet it’s a common fault. The Dealers shelves will be stacked with them!
14:30 😂 love it, it happens to all of us. great that you put it in the video and not like probably many others cut it out.
I cut out the big mistakes🤣🤣
If Dan can't fix it it no one can so he's our man.
😁😁👍
Great video! I like the way you explain the test methods. Most of the time things are replaced at a gamble :(
A gamble is faster and you got a 50/50 chance🤣🤣
I call that swopnostics.
Enjoying the progress of your channel!
Thanks!
Yes is the answer to your question, the coolant went past the seal and causes corrosion at the coil winding, I have changed many ford valves but not many BMW one's.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Love the bloopers Dan 😂😂👍👍👍
🙈🙈🤣
your the best in the business dan
Thank you 😁
Nothing beats knowledge, common sense and old good testlight.
Thanks for watching 😀
I don't know the spec for BMW but Mercedes uses basically the same valves and the spec is 10-15 Ohm per winding. Pretty sure its the same here. The winding is made from insulated wire. Maybe the point you probed at was the insulated part and didn't get a reading because of that. Good work as usual Dan!
Thanks for watching 👍
Good to see you back Dan..And cool beard my man!!
😁😁👍
My first thaughts when you said both sides were stuck oppen was someone had put rad seal in the system but when you took thos valves appart they changed to water pump lubricant because of a squeaky water pump or perhaps some oil getting into the coolant system as the rubber seals looked swollen as well as brocken.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Strange you had no fault codes with open circuit on both relays,great video as always 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Denis
I had a similar problem with a different cause on a Mercedes W220 that I bought in 2015, I test drove it on a warm day and had all the windows open to let the heat out thinking it was just because I hadn't worked out how to use the aircon controls. It turned out that the cabin heat sensor in the overhead control panel had a broken wire and was pumping in heat thinking the interior was cold, Mercedes wanted £400 plus for an new unit as they don't sell components. so back home and few strands of fine wire and some solder fixed it and it's still working today.
Great job!
Great video Dan! DDTSB is now invaluable to me I use it every day in the workshop helps a lot thank you, Dan. The education side says coming soon, cant wait to start using that too. Hope you enjoy the rest of your day. :)
The Education is already available, but right now you can find it under Measuring methods
@@Diagnosedan Are you sure Dan it says coming soon?
Welcome back Dan. Miss your video
I hope you liked the video Ramon👍
Excited and impressed 💯 Dan
Hi Danny,
Great video again and clearly explained! Stay healthy!
Thanks Geert!
Good work as usual Dan. 👍🏻
I also noticed on several occasions you say the valve could be stuck "half open" ... I'm just wondering, could it of actually been possible that the valve was stuck 'half closed'? 😁
Ha ha you're smart😁👍
@@Diagnosedan I'd be an happier man if I were half as smart as you 🤓
@@AbbottAutomotive my Wife says i'm a dumbass🤣
@@Diagnosedan I would say tell her she's wrong. However, I think this would be your last uploaded video if you did. 🤣
Many thanks Dan, one small negative--not keen on self locking grips on rubber without a protector of some sort.
If you ajust the vice grip the right way, it's all fine.
@@Diagnosedan Thanks Dan. I was thinking of Girling Brake Hose clamps, 2 smooth round bars, not always easy to use with cooling hoses though.
Always learn and enjoy from DD!
That's great!
Great work very thorough. I need more equipment
nice strategy...no bigg deal making such misrake. nice to see you are also human...
succes met je video''s en bedrijf
Bedankt Erik!
Another fantastic video welldone Dan👍
Thank you very much 👍
Nice work Dan I learn a lot from your video as a young tech keep the videos coming 👍
No problem 👍
Be it electronic or vacuum, those heater core bypass valves are a constant source of leaks and other issues for me when working on cars equipped with them. Thankfully, when only controlled with vacuum, on cars with a proper hot/cold blend door, it doesn't hurt anything to take them out and pitch them in the garbage.
Nice video sir. I learned a lot from ur channel. Ur subs from Philippines.
Very good work Dan. Love the beard. Keep them videos coming !
Thanks Willem 👍
Hello
What would you expect it’s winter time it’s a smart car it’ll cool down in the summer 😜
Anyway good to see you back and take care all the best
Aha that might be it!😜
Nice to see new video! Thanks Dan!👍
My pleasure
My cars different uses a blend door to cover the heater core side when I don’t want hot air but the coolants always circulating through the heater core
Diagnose Dan is my personal Lord and Savior!!! Love his videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!