Self launching bow roller for the anchor, and neater wiring!
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2020
- In this video Ben come down to help again and neated up all the wiring for the solar array on the awning and upgrade to Windows 10. Thanks Ben! I also add an external 4G antenna to improve the boat's Internet acces. Finally I install a Savwinch self launching bow roller for the Rocna anchor onto the bowsprit. An RCD also gets added to the AC system for extra safety and I conduct a silver half cell test to check if I have the right amount of zinc anode on the boat and that they are working properly.
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I watch these flicks for the fixes, findings, fidos, fun and yes fishing.
@18:21 Fish and chips, killing it !
Adding another roller is better than trimming the bracket!
Things are really coming together, looking good!
Thanks mate.
If I had been taking apart my dipstick while holding it over the engine bay, I would have dropped my allen wrench, the set screw and who knows what else and they would disappear never to be seen again. Glad you don't have as many thumbs as I do Stu.
Admire your confidence with the wiring. My experience is 10% fixing and 90% figuring out what I did wrong.
For the anchor chain issue, try drilling in a third roller at the beginning of the bow roller to prevent the rubbing.
That was my thought too. Or, put a 1/2” stainless bolt through it and cut a piece of UV resistant PVC pipe to slide ice the bolt to act as a bushing for the rope and chain.
Yes, and you still have the old roller to use...
Or you could cut the sides and bend it down at an angle so it guides but doesn't chafe
This comment section is gold. Everyone bouncing ideas off one another trying to help get best result.
For sure, the hive mind can come up with some great ideas.
For your anchor bow sprit you could cut it from the bottom and bend it so its angled toward the deck and just weld it back up!
Hi Stu, Thank you for getting back. Spent two days putting the fix all WD40 a quick spray every two hours. Then a large wide flat blade screw driver, the screw driver that belonged to my Grand Father it must be close to 100 years old but as it’s a proper cabinet screw driver, the good old fashioned sort with a large wooden handle plus a flat section just under the handle. Slip an adjustable spanner on the flat and with the extra leverage the screw gave way and started to move again. And people ask me why do you keep all this old junk.( junk being old workshop tools)
Great to hear you got it moving! :)
Renko is looking really cool. Just love it.
Thanks!
@@DangarMarine Love what you do bro.
If you look closely at the side of those MC4 connectors you should see a plus mark on the male showing it's positive from the panel. Looking good now you're able to twiddle thumbs!
I love the sound every time you hit the start button, the engine sounds amazing. Good to see you gave yourself plenty of thinking time to cut the dipstick the right length. Loving the content.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Stu. A trick I have seen, for getting individual wires out of a conduit is to chuck the ends into a cordless drill and twist them together. This make the bundle essentially one wire (will be stronger) and helps to shrink and break the bundle from the sides of the conduit. You can also do this to wires you want to run through a conduit too. A car stereo guy, showed me this one. I've used it to run wire (works great) but never tried removing wire this way but I've heard it works.
Nice tip!
It's always nice, that after you get the circuits worked out, to neaten up the wiring.
Everyday at Dangar looks like my dream day. Boats, craftsmen and good mates!
If you haven't cut the anchor mounting flush, perhaps think about putting an extra roller as a chafe guard.
Perhaps spool the chain and anchor line off the top of the drum to change the angle?
@@paulsperbeck617 yes , i was thinking the same but it will be higher on deck and maybe hard to pass over it'
Definitely. Thin rope is like braid, less abrasion tolerance than thicker line.
Best video in ages, also good to see Eddie!
Thanks David.
Those wondering 20:21 he says RCD which is a residual current device. Basically the same thing as a GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) used to immediately disconnect power for kitchen and bathroom plugs. For example if you dropped a hairdryer in your bathtub you wouldn't die. They react very quickly and often have a test switch on it.
Yep, should have done a quick explanation on how they work. Will do soon!
Nice Job Ben , give him a beer.
Hello from Rotonda West Florida on the Gulf.
Will do!
Better late than never mate....Thanks for the update....! Kentucky way
Affixing something dubiously and then proceeding to grab it and shake while saying "that's not going anywhere"
is a sign of modern manhood, don't take that masculine sign of independence away from yourself
I read a lot of replies regarding the anchor receiver/sprit. A different possibility might be to simply raise the forward end of the sprit to adjust the angle until the rode no longer contacts the aft edge when paying out. It might take too much of an angle to be effective, but it might be worth a look. Thanks for the continued top notch content.
Nice idea, but the trouble there is that the angle it is on is what allows the anchor to self launch without being given a push.
@@DangarMarine of course, I'm just going to go stick my head in the toilet. Wasn't thinking it through. Definitely need to avoid abrasion situations if you can with the high modulus polymers like Dyneema.
Wow Stu a test for an over Zinced boat ! Never seen that before! Must try that when I get back I the water! Thanks a lot. Warren
Great to see you making progress on Renko, but must say do miss the work you used to do on other boats and outbords.
So good to see the old boat coming to life again 👌
You need the marine power socket as it locks the plug into the fitting. If it comes out and goes overboard, 240 v in the water. If you stay with the caravan type, work out a way to tie off the power cable to keep the plug on board.
Good thought, that is an important situation to avoid. Maybe I will go with the marine type and just have a lead onboard that lets be connect to a regular socket on a wharf.
@@DangarMarine We replaced the marine plug with a standard 15 amp plug and that saved having any other leads.
I'd put the shore power inlet in the wheel house, then run the wires in the same type of flex tubing you used for the solar power wires. This will allow you top keep the hatch closed, where the open hatch may chafe the cord, as well as protect the wires from the power inlet running through out the boat. If it was me, I'd also rip out all the lose wires and run then through flex tubing, or use the hard PVC type tubing. I do a lot of electrical work one Vehicles, and this is how I normally do it, and I've never had any issues.
I'd also run the ground wire from the Inverter to the same ground bolt you have all the other power running to - if you have multiple ground points then your can get a "ground loop" and your electronics can start having random issues.
Yes, will definitely get move conduit soon to protect the existing wiring. Ground loops can be a big issue for sure.
Interesting, never knew you could have too many anodes, thanks!
I would not be worried about about mounting the Power Inlet on the wheelhouse, Stu. The supply that the lead will be connected to will also have some sort of protection on the shore end.
FINALLY! The bow anchor roller got replaced! I have been chewing off my fingernails waiting for this day.
Me too. It's nice to have the full functionality finally.
awesome as always,, Stu. One thing I always did at sea was always put it a spare "pull Thru" in place when I ran new wiring that way you always had one in place for the future.take care.
Thanks David, and good tip. Always makes sense to do things like that at the time to get yourself future proof.
Seen the video was up this morning before I went to work, been saving it for tonight when the kids all in bed. Always a great start to Sunday evenings viewing thanks Stu👍👍
Enjoy!
Thanks for showing the repair or Lorenzo’s transom. I have been putting off doing the same job on my boat, but now knowing that it can be a successful operation,I am confident of doing the same to my boat.
Awesome project you’ve got going on. That dyneema is ridiculously strong, and will def do the trick, something to look out for would be when you are anchoring, try pay out excess line and make this fast onto the bollard just forward of the storage drum. If you and anchor and the weather gets up the line may bury itself into the storage drum when the tension comes on. This will be an absolute nightmare to get out. It may well be that you were just testing the system, just something to look out for.
For sure, cleating it off would also take the strain off the winch itself while at anchor, definitely something I would do for an overnight stay.
All looks well.
Cut your mast off near the base, rip out the wires & whatever is blocking the mast, repaint the mast inside, weld the mast back on.
An opportunity to repaint the inside of the mast would be good.
@@DangarMarine It would prevent future rusting
Don't know if you have any bridge clearance issues, but if you are cutting off the mast, it would be simple to reinstall it on a hinge base to allow it to be lowered for low clearance bridges.
Good progress mate. Cable ties are the classy answer in lieu of a bit of rusty wire! Ingat kuya
Very true! ;)
2:35, D-Squad in the background keeping things safe for the film crew, patrolling the grounds!!!! Nice work girls.
Ok, on the shore power outlet, addressing the safety aspect of running from the wheel house or mounting under the hatch. All shore power in marinas up here in the US have GFCI protection on them, which would ensure that even a small short (to ground or phase to phase) would trip the circuit feeding the boat. I don't see that as a safety issue to be honest. I see bigger problems with that heavy lid crushing a wire. But that's just one mans opinion. Good luck.
WhatI have used previously to clean out transoms was a very long extension with the boring bit on it .You can actually chew the wood out and then use a vacuum with an extension on to suck it all out.
Yes, we did buy exactly that for this jobs. Great minds think alike! ;)
I did mine with a chain saw and the vacuum out the junk
@busgreasemonkey said in one of his videos - "It's a Detroit, if there's no oil under it, there's no oil in it. If you hang a picture of one on the wall, in the morning there'll be a little puddle of oil on the floor under it."
Hey mate, I run a marine electrical business down in tassie, I would suggest getting a copy of the AS/NZS 3004: 2014 part 2 which is the electrical standard for recreational boats, that earthing stud in the inverter is an equipotential bond terminal, under the Australian rules in a metal boat this should be bonded via the most direct path as possible to the hull, definitely not via the dc negative bar, legally it would have to be a green yellow earth cable as well, I have worked on a lot of boats that have fizzed harder than a berocca tablet after people have had a crack wiring there own ac systems, as for the rcd, unless the inverter has a neutral earth link (men) it won’t serve much of purpose, people get very confused when it comes to ‘earthing’ because you have equipotential earthing/bonding, ac protective earthing and dc negative which a lot of people also call earth
Inverter has a MEN link, As neg bar is earthed to hull it is ground.
Also you would probably find the house or wharf your plugging into would be RCD or RCBO protected as per AS3000 so worring about where the plug goes isnt an issue
Linking dc neg to the hull does not create an men link, the ac neutral output would have to be linked to create an men, also you can’t trust what you are plugging into to be correct Hence having standards for things like caravans and boats
Also another thing I’ve noticed is the lack of people mentioning that a licensed electrician should probably be doing the ac work, not saying it’s hard but if anything ever did go wrong, the boat caught on fire, some one gets a shock, the insurance company and the relevant electrical regulator would be asking questions
I think a lot of people get confused due to negative terminal being ground in a car. Not the case in other applications, and results of not understanding this could potentially be fatal especially when you are dealing with high voltages in electric vehicles.
Hey Stu, great amount of work and projects done! Looking forward to see what is going to happen with the mast. Cheers!
I would try adding another roller to the anchor holder BEFORE cutting anything. Ron W4BIN
Ron funny who would be looking at these videos 73s from sydney vk2mzz
You tried pulling all 4 cables at once! You're an animal!
that's why I keep coming back...
Thanks! ;)
Anchor issues...
Adding a roller would give the best protection to the bracket, chain, and rope. The swivel attaching the chain to the anchor should have a short length of chain between it and the anchor to prevent side loading snapping the yoke in tough anchoring situations Stu.
Yes, thinking I might just add a shackly between the swivel and the anchor and see how that goes.
I really think a 3rd roller is the easy way to go. Just drill a hole in either side no cutting, no grinding, no metal splinters, and it saves the back 2 holes for adjustment should you acquire/require another anchor.
Great video. I’d go with another roller for the anchor line.
You live dangerously Stu. Little tools and parts to a dip stick all over top of the motor box. I would have been looking under the motor for a dropped Allen wrench or parts for the dip stick before that adventure was over.
Rather than cut the anchor tray shorter, how about put a 3rd roller right on the end. Even cut the bottom of the tray a bit, so you have 2 wings and the 3rd roller could be lower. So right at the boat end you had a roller to guide the chain/rope seeward.
Hey Stu , great videos mate, lived in Manly 25 years ago and loving all stories and theamazing scenery!!!!!!, especially now as its bloody freezing here in the UK.Ha Ha
It’s snowing here this morning in eastern North Dakota, USA.
As fellow North Dakotan in the west we got 2in of snow over here
Stu, re the inboard end of the bow-roller, I'd advise not to just cut it off! If you put a vertical cut in the webs at the side, you could then bend the end downwards creating a 'lead in' for the chain/rope. Take it home weld the gap with some stainless mig/arc wire, to remove the chafing point on the side. You could even weld a small stainless loop over the top of the inboard end, to ensure the chain/rope never jumps out of the bow-roller channel.
Yes, opening it up does seem a good way to go.
To my ear that Detroit diesel just purrrs... Renko is nearing perfection, now for some charter work. Looking good Stu, nice to see eddie!
For sure, it runs really sweetly other than the oil ring problem.
...good one, fine tuning is always a tedious job. nice work, stay safe and enjoy...
Finally some sanity! Thank you Stu!!
Enjoy!
@@DangarMarine USA social media has gone completely insane these last few days...
The dyneema anchor rode is great stuff because of its strength/diameter ratio. The weakness is it is not very abrasion resistant. I noticed your concern regarding the anchor chain rubbing the bow anchor bracket. It looks like the dyneema will also rub. Be careful there Mr. Dangar.
Hi Stu: Use two outdoor sockets wired in parallel. One on the cabin exterior and the other on your panel. You will have the best of both worlds without having to leave the lazerette open.
Sounds like it's running really well though
It is running well, the problem purely causes and oil leak that doesn't affect performance at all.
Really enjoyed your vlog stay safe
In many places, the mains "neutral" and "ground" are normally tied together, at (or near) the distribution board. As you'd pointed out in the video, this helps the positive voltages find a safer route to ground than, say, through a human. It also facilitates detection of a ground fault -- the ground wire usually sidesteps the current sensing of your RCD, giving a positive bias (at the current sense) and breaking the circuit. Big Clive has a number of good videos on how that works if you're interested, including teardowns of RCD/GFI-type sockets and breakers.
Thanks for another interesting video. On the anchor rode: I take your point about the dyneema- cored double-braid being stronger and allowing more rode to be wound on to the winch, BUT nylon stretches a lot more so acts as a shockabsorber, protecting your winch. If you are going to anchor in a big sea and use the double-braid , you could protect your winch by cleating the double braid to a horn cleat or find another way to snub the line so the strain doesn't damage that lovely winch.
Yes, a snub line with more stretch would be a great thing to have rigged up for bad weather.
One recommendation I'd make towards your power wall / inverter is to mount a single Co2 fire extinguisher next to it, such a shame the mast wiring was a fight, Another great video Stu
Instead of making the awning detachable it might an option to mount the awning to the roof with some heavy duty hinges and attach the steel wires to a vinch on the roof that way you can lift the awning up and out of the way at the press of a button or adjust the height whenever is needed
Yes, I was talking with Adrian about that a few days ago, would be a very neat feature for the awning to have.
Miles and miles of wires .😜👍🏻🇺🇸
For the remaining hole under the power outlets maybe a bottle opener could go there? On the bow roller maybe slightly bend the extra bit down and put a roller on it to help more 'gently' guide the chain?
Bottle opener is a good idea. ;)
Well done we found the braid let us down the inner let go , and it stretched , the three strand no stretch and easy to splice and good on the hands and lasted longer , years in fact , we marked the last two mtrs and the ,ast meter with paint to indicate it nearly there when hauling up good luck
I am with Peter, the addition of a roll on the inboard side of your anchor bow spirt will give a reliable feed that the chain won't fowl with the bracket even if it slops around a bit as they tend to do. I don't think that shortening it will resolve the possibility of the chain catching on the leading bracket edge, in particular if it goes a bit slack.
Yes, it is true that no matter how short it is any slack will still catch.
Another great video. Thanks
Hey, great video as per your norm. Looking forward to the next one! Be well.
Thanks! You too!
I like those self launch anchors but I am holding out for the self retrieving version to be made
The old tangerine Haines full of rotten timber. That brings back memories I would rather forget... LOL
Yes, it certainly is a common problem with these old glass boats.
This is what I'm looking for. I'm not gonna be around in 20 years I don't need a 20 yr fix either ;)
Mounting the 4G antenna further from the mast would improve propagation characteristics. Also, if you go with VHF antenna for the radio, top of mast will be most efficient. But you can still get by with an automotive magnetic mount on the cabin roof. Before you cut the bow roller feed, how about slotting the coners and bending it out or down a bit for feeding.
Yes, was also concerned about the proximity to the steel mast, might look at other options before I run the wires.
Hi Stu just put another roller on end of braket the chain will run on it Easy fix. 🔔⚓😊😎 Love the chooks🐔🐔
Looking good Mate, enjoyed the video!
Glad you enjoyed. :)
Handsome Unshaved Aussies Drinking Beer and Fixing Boats. Now there’s a TV series.
We'll have to audition. I can drink beer! ;)
Shorepower socket on the pilothouse, no problem if you run wires from there to the galvanic isolator on the engineroom panel.
Renko is really starting to come along nicely Stu. Hopefully those rings start behaving themselves, its a shame to have to tear into a fresh rebuild like that.
Ah morning coffee sorted! G‘day Stu! Better news on the engine!!
Morning!
@@DangarMarine Looks like a stunning Spring day!! With his pride of place shot in the opening credits, I’ve only just realised Eddie isn’t your dog!!
Bowman heat exchangers?
G'day Stu good work mate.......John
Thanks John.
Just a thought to add a marker to anchor chain, so when it's just below or above surface of water you kind of know where it is if retrieve from pilot house.
Yes, that's what Pete and I were talking about at the end of the vid.
Alternative to cutting the bow sprint add another roller.
Instead of cutting the anchor holder, I would maybe look at getting a bit of HDPE or similar to put around the end so that it protects the steel and also protects the anchor line. From experience, dyneema starts fraying pretty easily when rubbing on anything really.
That would be the least expensive. You could always drill and add another small roller.
Cutting the end off would also eliminate moving it to the utmost forward setting. Place an HDPE guide.
i wouldn't cut that feed ramp off the stainless bowsprit. Better to cut each side wall where it meets the mounting base & angle it down so it acts as a ramp.
Good call as the chain will allways fall and hit as it pays out, but might leave a few sharp edges.
@@nou238 Should be able to chamfer the cut edges with the grinder Or Stu could move the anchor winch higher up the cabin wall or add a pipe for the chain & rope to feed through.
Yes agreed really need to make a feeder particularly with longer lengths of chain >600mm in horizontal- cut and miter the overhang inside of the stem mount. Definitely need some for of chain feeder -don't always have the perfect anchor launch and retrial particularly caught in a storm and heavy seas.
Went back and checked the video again possibly look at building the sides up on the aft end of the feeder- stainless steel pin across the top so the chain cannot jump off the aft end of the ramp.
@@tonyboats A length of stainless steel 3" or 4" exhaust pipe & have them slightly flare the entry & exit holes would work as a feeder to the bowsprit.
Eddie coming to check on progress and whether his deck kennel is in yet
Nice progress Stu, you could add a roller on the end of the anchor guide so the anchor chain and line doesn't rub the guide. Looking good with the wiring enhancements, tell Eddie Hey, Jeff in LA USA
Hi Jeff. Yes, have been thinking about adding a third roller but I'll see how the trimming goes first.
Great job 👍🏾
Thank you! Cheers!
Stu, what about drilling an access port close to the bottom of the mast to help you guide cables through,then just cap it with a bolt on cap sealed with some Sicaflex. Instant access if you need to get to it in the future. Great work, by the way. Looking forward to the diving vids. 👌👌
i was thinking the same thing-- just like a lamp post.
You take away quite a bit of structural integrity of the mast by cutting a hole into it. Now, it might not be as important as with a sail boat but it still has to withstand winds.
good job and good luck
Thanks, as always great content
Glad you enjoyed it
One for the algorithm Stu
Thanks Jared. ;)
I would mount the power inlet on the boat cab and add, buy a Clipsal ip 56 - 3 module weather proof box adding the RCD in two of the modules and inlet in the third. It will look neat.
Nice idea, I like that.
Dangar Marine - Clipsal part 56e3 rw and 56sb4
On the bow roller, why not cut the cheeks away forward and the tongue that remains just bend downwards to match the angle of the chain.
Just a thought instead of drilling/cutting a hole in your mast where it is worn thin from rust to try and pull the wires etc and patching it which honestly sound like a very temporary repair at best perhaps a better solution would be cut your mast off at the point below where it is rust damaged and weld a flange onto the stub of the mast and weld another flange onto the other section of the mast that was cut off and had the rust damaged section cut off and new pice of pipe/tubing sectioned onto it in its place.(mast extension if you will) then you will have a easy way to remove the mast should you ever pull Renko out of the water and transport it by truck and trailer as well as allowing for easy installation of wiring or serving of the mast (painting etc) in the future. additionally to ensure the where the flange is installed is waterproof and to provide additional reinforcement to the joint it would in my opinion be a good idea to install a section of tubing (preferably stainless steel or aluminum) as a sleeve that fits snugly inside the stub of the mast and into the vertical section of the mast (mast extension) . this could be done by welding it in place but an easier option that should work just as well and if not better is to 3M Panel Bond Adhesive applied to the section of the sleeve being installed in the mast stub. When you would be bolting the two sections of the mast together an O-ring could be installed on the sleeve which I would coat with a waterproof grease (Myself I would use silicone grease because it waterproof and should not damage the insulation of any wiring) additionally I would make a gasket using butyl rubber and install a heavy gauge ground strap between the upper and lower section of the mast and leave a large service loop of wiring (3/4 to 1 meter) in the ceiling area of the cabin.
Not to be a nit picking nag but if Renko were my boat I would spend some time nesting up the wiring you have installed because there are some areas that it is getting a little ratty looking and now is the time dress that all up otherwise before you know it you will have a first class mess on your hands. Sorry again for sounding like a whiny nag but having worked 20 plus years in the telecommunications industry neat orderly wiring is a pet peeve of mine and probably most anyone else who works in the telecom industry.
StaySafe, StayHealthy and keep the wind on your bow and the seas on your stern
Yes, was talking yesterday with a mate about adding a couple of flanges to the mast to make it easily removable. Seems like a worthwhile change for sure.
Remember when Stu used to release a new video evry week?
Peppermint Farms remembers.
Still do!
Hi Stu, Good video on the anchor and wiring. Bummer the old wires won't come out but like your plan cut and weld in upcoming video. I see the wiring laying on the batteries needs to be organized. Lots of opportunities still on cleanup. My workshop needs it too. Rain season now so will get the indoor stuff going👍
Hey Tim, yes, it was frustrating with the old wiring, but we'll get there in the end.
Hey Stu, for the shore inlet if you put it in the original pos you will need to protect the cable with a CB near it unless its under 3 M cable length to the RCBO, as you aren't on a dock with power permanently cant see an issue with it in the Laz, you brought up the disadvantages of it there in the Vid. Cheers
I could well be a smidge over the 3M mark to the lazarette, but you are right, I'm not on a dock so I'm really not sure how often I will need it. Even when we are staying on board we never get the batteries below 80% by morning and then they are full again before lunch.
Hi Stu, don't cut it, put another roller there. stops it and it looks great.
I'd like to add another vote for putting in a third roller on the anchor bracket.
See a lot of comments about adding a 3rd roller rather than cutting. I have to admit I agree with them. You can always cut the metal later, it's less easy to put the metal back.