This is so useful Matt. I was planning to reverse engineer Ikea fronts instead I found your DXF files and instruction to go with it. What more can you ask!!! Keep it up.
Hi Matt, in another video you had measured the hinges differently (50mm down and 33mm in to the center of the hinge cup). Is this updated measurement correct?
Wow, I think you may have just saved me about £1600. Thank you so much you are my new favourite person. I’m just trying to source a local CNC machinist and get my head around the CAD software!! Watch this space!!
@@MattHutton i have found a local company to cut the doors for me. Is it please possible for you to give me the dimensions and hinge placements for the small double corner doors that you have please?? Thanks in advance Nicola
Hi Matt, really enjoying your videos. I am trying to achieve a fairly similar look however I also have a lot of drawers rather than doors. Do you know how these fit on in comparison? I realise they won’t have any hinges but do they have dowel locations?
Hi UKTopGun - did you manage to incorporate some holes for drawer fronts? I'm tackling that challenge next and wondered if you might have a DXF file that you might be willing to share? Many thanks! Keith
Dude, because of you video we're in the middle of requesting an offer from a cnc place nearby so thank you. Question, the freecadweb didn't allow me to measure distance (in mm) from your dxf file, only in meters. any ideas why that's so? I'm trying to figure out the depth of the drill holes for the hinges. Btw, I made a dxf file for the drawers (Metod), I can share that with you so you can share that with others.
Maybe... I'll subcribe to your channel and ponder my options for the time being. I was searching rewiring DIY today and saw your vids. Inspiring stuff 👍
Thank you for this great video! I have nothing but 'can do' mindset, and I will try to do something similar to my new kitchen. One quick question, the free CAD program you suggested isn't working on my MacBook I see some other free programs (e.g. 3D builder). Would your files work on those other programs? Thank you again!
Awesome, I’m glad you liked it :) Yes any program that reads DXF files. Alternatively, if you intend on using a company to CNC cut the doors they can do some edits to the files for a small fee I’m sure :)
Matt, you're a legend for this. - What's the thickness of ply did you use and does it matter much? - did you have to finish the edges at all beyond oiling them? I'm quite surprised the CNC machine leaves them so tidy I'm considering doing this with some spenny 19mm Walnut-faced plywood so want to get it right. Plykea samples are 18mm. Assuming this wouldn't make any difference to the CAD cutouts but seeking reassurance
Hello mate, I used 18mm and you will need to sand the edges lightly with say 120 grit. The depth of the wood won’t require different CAD you just need to tell the company you give it to, what depths you want. :)
Thanks for this wonderful video. Kitchen looks fantastic. A suggestion for anyone who would like different doors ( e.g. uppers in a colour or because there isn't enough material in the sheets), is to use MDF and paint with Wilko cabinet paint. It is solvent based, and repels water from the cut edges. Limited colour range but mixable ( we did 1 tin cream, 1 tin grey and 1/2 tin white to give a perfect warm but light grey). Has a great low-gloss / almost matt finish. Scrubbable and waterproof. Anyway, keep the videos coming - we're hooked!!
Matt, when the doors come back from being CNC cut, are they just ready to hang? How do the exposed edges look? Will they just need a hand sand or something more? I will be oiling them as you suggested but wondered about sanding. Questions, questions.........
Thanks for this Matt, great video I wanted to order CNC cut wood for my next build so this is super helpful, I’ll try and get to grips with the free CAD
Brilliant video. I hadn't even thought about outsourcing the work to a CNC shop. I made my own doors for my cabinets and it was a ton of work. Did you apply edge handing or leave the edges exposed to reveal the pretty lamination?
Hi Matt, thanks for this! I am starting a new kitchen reno and wanted to do the whole thing in ply but I don't have the skills to build cabinets so I'm hoping to take the Plykea approach. I have a local supplier who will laser cut ply to my specs. Do I need to draw anything up in CAD do you think, or can I just get the base cabinets & benchtop in and then provide the dimensions of the door panels to the ply supplier? They'll deliver them to me all cut and ready to go, so would all I need to do be to get the hinges sorted and put handles on?
I wouldn’t have them laser cut because it will most likely give you burned edges. 18mm is quite thick to cut with a laser. A CNC router would be better. You can either use the drawings I have linked in the description or draw your own. Remember to specify how you want to hinges to be cut because most of the cuts will be all the way through, but you don’t want it all through for the hinges. Or you could just have the rectangular doors cut and then buy an IKEA hinge jig and just cut them yourself. Up to you.
Hey mate, brilliant work. Question for you - are your hinge measurements universal for all the IKEA hinges? I want to get the Utrusta hinges that soft close and wondered if they'll work with your drawings. Cheers mate!
What a great idea and job! Could you just tell me, what size are the different cupboards (the down ones) in your kitchen, so I can adapt my project to my planned kitchen? Thank you :)
hello! Thanks for this. I'm also trying to cut out the middle man with these nice but expensive plywood door companies. Your dimensions have been really useful though I'm struggling to find the template for the tall 2080mm cabinet doors.They have 2 middle holes too. Any chance you could tell me where you found the original dims? I'm hoping the same source might have them for other sizes too. THANK YOU !! :)
great job on the doors mate!!! just wondering how much money u saved by using plywood rather than buying the doors from ikea??? im also thinking of using plywood doors when i make my built-in wardrobes using the ikea pax frames. thanks.
You can get cheaper doors at IKEA but I wanted a birch plywood look. And there is a website called custom fronts and they quoted £1500 for the doors. I made them for £360, including the CNC cutting and the osmo oil finish.
Hi Matt - thanks for the great video and insight. You provide a lot of detail on the cupboard doors and hinges but I notice in your DXF's you have no set holes for the draw fronts or appliances. How did you go about getting all those pilot holes drilled and aligned properly??
The draws I measured and did by hand because as I only had 3 draws. It was pretty simple to do. The easiest thing to do would be to order the cheapest draw fronts possible from ikea and copy them. For the integrated fridge and freezer I measured off other close by fixed objects like the worktop or another nearby door to find the hole positions. Then I put the doors in the final positions that I wanted them and subtracted the gaps around the edge to get the hole positions to put on the doors themselves. Integrated appliances usually have a lot of adjustment for the doors so it’s not the end of the world if it’s slightly off. :)
Hi @Luke - did you manage to incorporate some holes for drawer fronts? I'm tackling that challenge next and wondered if you might have a DXF file that you might be willing to share? Many thanks! Keith
@@kmander Hi Keith, as suggested by Matt I opted to buy one of the cheapest fronts IKEA do. I then drilled those holes all the way though and used it as a template. It worked really well and so long as you set up from the bottom edge, the hole locations are the same irrespective of drawer front height or overall width. My integrated dishwasher then also came with its own paper drilling template. All the best!
@@LukeSmith123 awesome - thanks, Luke! I didn't realise that it'd be the same for all the drawer types - so I can just buy a single piece to use as the template vs. a piece for each type. That's great!
No worries. It was B/BB but you can even go for S/BB for a superior finish. BB would be for the inside of the door because the are sometimes still biscuits pieces glued in to cover knots
Matt, can I buy you a beer mate? Seriously good work. I've been sitting here cadding it all up - I actually bought a set of fronts from IKEA I was planning to open and measure - I can return them now. One thing I noticed is that you don't have any drilled holes for drawers to fit on to the railes etc. - Did you just do that with a drill yourself?
Hi PT - did you manage to incorporate some holes for drawer fronts? I'm tackling that challenge next and wondered if you might have a DXF file that you might be willing to share? Many thanks! Keith
@@kmander I didn't in the end - I just hand drilled holes from a jig I made. If I could go back in time I would buy and return all the relevant doors and drawers in order to get it CNCd. It was a real pain in the butt.
@@pt8314 Thanks for the response and tip, PT. Getting myself to Ikea and later making the returns is also a bit of a pain, but I think you're right that it's the lesser evil. I'm still scouring the web to see if someone else has already tackled this before and would be willing to share.
@@kmander I didn't actually measure in the end, as I say, I made a jig. The hole requirements are different on different fronts so it's a bit of a mess. Honestly, depending on the size of the kitchen, I still think it would be worth buying one of each of the fronts you need and get them delivered - even if they become scrap. It's mainly drawer fronts and there's only a few sizes of those. This way there's no chance of the drill stop slipping and going all the way through the front! Sorry I can't help more. The end result is worth it... soooo much cheaper in Plykea even if you had to buy example fronts.
@@pt8314 Got it! Thanks :) Yeah, it's going to end up waaay cheaper than Plykea. Our fitter quoted a price somewhere in the middle, but he'd he making the cuts by hand. CNC is the way to go! Did you also apply a laminate to the ply, or did you go with pure ply?
Oh man. Going back to your first videos, and seeing the finished article now......you have done an amazing job mate.
Thank you mate :]
This is so useful Matt. I was planning to reverse engineer Ikea fronts instead I found your DXF files and instruction to go with it. What more can you ask!!! Keep it up.
Glad you found it helpful mate :)
Hi Matt, in another video you had measured the hinges differently (50mm down and 33mm in to the center of the hinge cup). Is this updated measurement correct?
Honestly you might have saved me so much money and time. RUclips really does provide! Consider me subscribed. Congrats on the kitchen, it looks great!
No problem :) glad you found it helpful :)
Matt Hutton One quick question, what thickness were your sheets of ply?
joshuajarmstrong 18mm
Wow, I think you may have just saved me about £1600. Thank you so much you are my new favourite person. I’m just trying to source a local CNC machinist and get my head around the CAD software!! Watch this space!!
:) I’m glad you found it useful Nicola! All the best with your project.
@@MattHutton i have found a local company to cut the doors for me. Is it please possible for you to give me the dimensions and hinge placements for the small double corner doors that you have please?? Thanks in advance Nicola
Hi, thanks so much for this video! Do you know the measurements for the draw fixings too at all?
Hi Matt, do you have the drawer hole positioning?
Hi Matt, really enjoying your videos. I am trying to achieve a fairly similar look however I also have a lot of drawers rather than doors. Do you know how these fit on in comparison? I realise they won’t have any hinges but do they have dowel locations?
Hi UKTopGun - did you manage to incorporate some holes for drawer fronts? I'm tackling that challenge next and wondered if you might have a DXF file that you might be willing to share? Many thanks! Keith
Dude, because of you video we're in the middle of requesting an offer from a cnc place nearby so thank you. Question, the freecadweb didn't allow me to measure distance (in mm) from your dxf file, only in meters. any ideas why that's so? I'm trying to figure out the depth of the drill holes for the hinges. Btw, I made a dxf file for the drawers (Metod), I can share that with you so you can share that with others.
Hey mate, if you have that dxf file for the metod drawers I would love to have it :)
Nice vid - very informative and resourceful! Thanks for the tips and free advice
Thanks mate are you going to give it a go?
Maybe... I'll subcribe to your channel and ponder my options for the time being. I was searching rewiring DIY today and saw your vids. Inspiring stuff 👍
Dolbro Dan awesome Yeah give it a go and BSafe let me know if you’ve got any questions
This is awesome! Great work!
Glad you found it useful mate are you doing the same thing?
Looks so rad!
Cheers bro ;)
What size birch ply sheets did you use and thickness
2440 x 1220 x 18mm
Thank you for this great video! I have nothing but 'can do' mindset, and I will try to do something similar to my new kitchen. One quick question, the free CAD program you suggested isn't working on my MacBook I see some other free programs (e.g. 3D builder). Would your files work on those other programs? Thank you again!
Awesome, I’m glad you liked it :)
Yes any program that reads DXF files.
Alternatively, if you intend on using a company to CNC cut the doors they can do some edits to the files for a small fee I’m sure :)
@@MattHutton Thank you. I will give it a go and let you know!
Hello! love your accent!
Ohhhhh thank you, come visit some time :)
Matt, you're a legend for this.
- What's the thickness of ply did you use and does it matter much?
- did you have to finish the edges at all beyond oiling them? I'm quite surprised the CNC machine leaves them so tidy
I'm considering doing this with some spenny 19mm Walnut-faced plywood so want to get it right. Plykea samples are 18mm. Assuming this wouldn't make any difference to the CAD cutouts but seeking reassurance
Hello mate, I used 18mm and you will need to sand the edges lightly with say 120 grit. The depth of the wood won’t require different CAD you just need to tell the company you give it to, what depths you want. :)
Thanks for this wonderful video. Kitchen looks fantastic.
A suggestion for anyone who would like different doors ( e.g. uppers in a colour or because there isn't enough material in the sheets), is to use MDF and paint with Wilko cabinet paint. It is solvent based, and repels water from the cut edges. Limited colour range but mixable ( we did 1 tin cream, 1 tin grey and 1/2 tin white to give a perfect warm but light grey). Has a great low-gloss / almost matt finish. Scrubbable and waterproof.
Anyway, keep the videos coming - we're hooked!!
Awesome Lynn thanks for the advice :)
Matt, when the doors come back from being CNC cut, are they just ready to hang? How do the exposed edges look? Will they just need a hand sand or something more? I will be oiling them as you suggested but wondered about sanding. Questions, questions.........
Hey Nicola,
They come back fairly smooth but if you sand them down with 120 grit you should be able to get them nice and cleaned up and smoother :)
@@MattHutton thank you 😀
Thanks for this Matt, great video I wanted to order CNC cut wood for my next build so this is super helpful, I’ll try and get to grips with the free CAD
Great stuff :) if you can’t you can always ask the CNC guys to do it for you. Because it’s only rectangles and circles. Shouldn’t take long to do.
Brilliant video. I hadn't even thought about outsourcing the work to a CNC shop. I made my own doors for my cabinets and it was a ton of work.
Did you apply edge handing or leave the edges exposed to reveal the pretty lamination?
He left them exposed.
Hi Matt, thanks for this! I am starting a new kitchen reno and wanted to do the whole thing in ply but I don't have the skills to build cabinets so I'm hoping to take the Plykea approach. I have a local supplier who will laser cut ply to my specs. Do I need to draw anything up in CAD do you think, or can I just get the base cabinets & benchtop in and then provide the dimensions of the door panels to the ply supplier? They'll deliver them to me all cut and ready to go, so would all I need to do be to get the hinges sorted and put handles on?
I wouldn’t have them laser cut because it will most likely give you burned edges. 18mm is quite thick to cut with a laser. A CNC router would be better. You can either use the drawings I have linked in the description or draw your own. Remember to specify how you want to hinges to be cut because most of the cuts will be all the way through, but you don’t want it all through for the hinges.
Or you could just have the rectangular doors cut and then buy an IKEA hinge jig and just cut them yourself. Up to you.
Hey mate, brilliant work. Question for you - are your hinge measurements universal for all the IKEA hinges? I want to get the Utrusta hinges that soft close and wondered if they'll work with your drawings. Cheers mate!
What a great idea and job! Could you just tell me, what size are the different cupboards (the down ones) in your kitchen, so I can adapt my project to my planned kitchen? Thank you :)
hello! Thanks for this. I'm also trying to cut out the middle man with these nice but expensive plywood door companies. Your dimensions have been really useful though I'm struggling to find the template for the tall 2080mm cabinet doors.They have 2 middle holes too. Any chance you could tell me where you found the original dims? I'm hoping the same source might have them for other sizes too. THANK YOU !! :)
Hi Matt, thanks for the great video. How thick does the plywood need to be? I remember you mentioned it but I can't seem to find it anymore. Thanks!
Any size you want but I used 18mm
great job on the doors mate!!!
just wondering how much money u saved by using plywood rather than buying the doors from ikea???
im also thinking of using plywood doors when i make my built-in wardrobes using the ikea pax frames.
thanks.
You can get cheaper doors at IKEA but I wanted a birch plywood look. And there is a website called custom fronts and they quoted £1500 for the doors. I made them for £360, including the CNC cutting and the osmo oil finish.
@@MattHutton thats a pretty good saving!!!!!! 👍🏻
MR V are you going to give it a go?
@@MattHutton most likely yes - but i may use MDF instead - and spray paint the doors grey.
Hi Matt - thanks for the great video and insight. You provide a lot of detail on the cupboard doors and hinges but I notice in your DXF's you have no set holes for the draw fronts or appliances. How did you go about getting all those pilot holes drilled and aligned properly??
The draws I measured and did by hand because as I only had 3 draws. It was pretty simple to do. The easiest thing to do would be to order the cheapest draw fronts possible from ikea and copy them.
For the integrated fridge and freezer I measured off other close by fixed objects like the worktop or another nearby door to find the hole positions. Then I put the doors in the final positions that I wanted them and subtracted the gaps around the edge to get the hole positions to put on the doors themselves. Integrated appliances usually have a lot of adjustment for the doors so it’s not the end of the world if it’s slightly off. :)
Hi @Luke - did you manage to incorporate some holes for drawer fronts? I'm tackling that challenge next and wondered if you might have a DXF file that you might be willing to share? Many thanks! Keith
@@kmander Hi Keith, as suggested by Matt I opted to buy one of the cheapest fronts IKEA do. I then drilled those holes all the way though and used it as a template. It worked really well and so long as you set up from the bottom edge, the hole locations are the same irrespective of drawer front height or overall width. My integrated dishwasher then also came with its own paper drilling template. All the best!
@@LukeSmith123 awesome - thanks, Luke! I didn't realise that it'd be the same for all the drawer types - so I can just buy a single piece to use as the template vs. a piece for each type. That's great!
Hi Matt, can I please ask, what grade Birch Ply did you use? I was thinking of using BB/BB?
No worries. It was B/BB but you can even go for S/BB for a superior finish. BB would be for the inside of the door because the are sometimes still biscuits pieces glued in to cover knots
I found that lathams timber in the UK seem to have the best choice and quality of birchply
Hi Matt. Just wondering what brand your integrated fridge was? Just had some birch ply doors cut for my project. :-)
AEG :)
Can you please paint the kitchen doors into white? and change the handles!
Just in the middle of doing the same
Why didnt you do the covers on them ...epic video
Looks like a great job Matt! Thinking of doing a similar project myself, where did you order your birch ply from?
Cheers mate, Lathams have a good choice of birch ply :)
Matt, can I buy you a beer mate? Seriously good work. I've been sitting here cadding it all up - I actually bought a set of fronts from IKEA I was planning to open and measure - I can return them now.
One thing I noticed is that you don't have any drilled holes for drawers to fit on to the railes etc. - Did you just do that with a drill yourself?
Hi PT - did you manage to incorporate some holes for drawer fronts? I'm tackling that challenge next and wondered if you might have a DXF file that you might be willing to share? Many thanks! Keith
@@kmander I didn't in the end - I just hand drilled holes from a jig I made. If I could go back in time I would buy and return all the relevant doors and drawers in order to get it CNCd. It was a real pain in the butt.
@@pt8314 Thanks for the response and tip, PT. Getting myself to Ikea and later making the returns is also a bit of a pain, but I think you're right that it's the lesser evil. I'm still scouring the web to see if someone else has already tackled this before and would be willing to share.
@@kmander I didn't actually measure in the end, as I say, I made a jig. The hole requirements are different on different fronts so it's a bit of a mess. Honestly, depending on the size of the kitchen, I still think it would be worth buying one of each of the fronts you need and get them delivered - even if they become scrap. It's mainly drawer fronts and there's only a few sizes of those. This way there's no chance of the drill stop slipping and going all the way through the front! Sorry I can't help more. The end result is worth it... soooo much cheaper in Plykea even if you had to buy example fronts.
@@pt8314 Got it! Thanks :)
Yeah, it's going to end up waaay cheaper than Plykea. Our fitter quoted a price somewhere in the middle, but he'd he making the cuts by hand. CNC is the way to go! Did you also apply a laminate to the ply, or did you go with pure ply?
Thanks for building a house for us :)
:)