That's a good idea but I bet he's gonna leave it locked a lot more than he thinks... I modified swaybars front and rear on a jeep that just used a hitch pins to disconnect the links and I never unlocked the rear cuz it really does feel a lot more stable even on rocks when the chassis and rear end kind of agree with each other.. I found that the front was where I wanted the crazy flex and I still had more than enough in the rear even with the sway bar engaged...
The bit that impressed me most here Chris is you've got your machining tolerances so tight that you inadvertently create an air bearing... when you're sliding the sleeve over the inner shaft and it free spins like that, it's doing so because there's a layer of air trapped between the two and when you spin the turbulence and pressure difference caused by the two close matched but not touching surfaces is enough to cause the outer one to float relative to the inner part and experience very low friction. Impressive work.
@@janeblogs324 Oh is that so JANE? Here's Google's definition : the branch of science and technology concerned with the design, building, and use of engines, machines, and structures. Would you like to pull your foot out of your mouth? Or want me to do it for you?
Glad you said that bigger material than you need always wondered WHY figured it was what you had laying around. Builds still amaze me what you can build out of a shed keep it up
auto parts store universal red poly sway bar bushings... They usually come with brackets too and I think they look a lot cooler than block bearings... They also allow some flex. I think that rear bar will stay locked more often than not. the front is where u want the unlockable sway bar and it's always more confidence inspiring to have your chassis at least somewhat agree with the rear axle even on rocks...
Great mod. The only thing i'd change is i'd ditch the ball bearings and go for rubber bushings from something like a truck. An aftermarket split piece kit. You don't need the bearings for something like this. So when you're back from the event, maybe you can swap them out. One other, small thing, you should make a boot over the locking thingie. If water gets in there, with the tight tolerance, it will rust that thing shut. -Either that, or maybe a grease fitting-. edit: saw the grease fitting. :)) A great boot for this would be a CV joint boot set, again from a truck (big sized boots). Aftermarket stuff will be cheap and you only need it to cover the joint, not actually do work, so it's ok to get the cheapo one.
Have a chat with Fox about tuning those shocks. Tuning air shocks is not very intuitive but it can make a huge difference. Adding oil will make the shocks harder at full compression, making them more able to keep the vehicle upright.
very nice thing to be able to have. On my rzr there is times that having my sway bars on is better and others where its worse. It is something that is well worth.
i know you were in a rush but a "bistable mechanism" with a spring in the handle may solve the issue to lock it in place without having to line the pins manually, cool build tho
a proper set of springs will keep the machine level without needing the swaybar. then your shocks can be a little softer which is what you want on a rock crawler. you want the tire to be able to go up on the rock with out the machine just tipping. Those shocks are not springs.
When you heading to Durham town? We ride there a good bit, would like to see your builds in person and meet you. It’s always cool to meet other fabricators and someone you’ve been watching build things.
Chris you are an amazing fabricator, I've been a welder fabricator for 30 years and I'm blown away every time I watch one of your videos!! Keep the videos coming and your video format is top notch! 💪😎👊
Impressive fabrication, as always. I have one concern. The new anti-sway system puts a lot of load onto the lower suspension links. This might cause them the bend. It also puts a lateral load onto the lower link rod-ends putting the threaded parts into shear, which is best avoided. These issues would be less critical if there was some "spring" built into the anti-sway linkage, somewhere.
Hey i just wanna say one tiny thing for future "Locking" Put a Curve "Valley" so the "locked" position doesnt fall out of its groove. it saves some headache when it might dissengage @24:44 it's just a nice thing
Come on Chris, the lathes chuck key is in your hand or on the bench. NEVER leave it hanging out of the chuck. There's been a lot of bad accidents from people forgetting that. That heavy lump of metal can have a lot of kinetic energy if you absent mindedly hit the power button and it flies out in a random direction. It's also something that could catch clothing and pull you in. I know you're a self taught machinest, but this is first day basic safety stuff.
And we need to get him to look into some better bars/inserts. The bar and insert he is using is meant for finish work. I hate seeing the long ribbons of steel it makes as he is turning it down to size. Someone get this man a chip breaker setup! Like his bar at 6:25 ruclips.net/video/vkh7ITmUhFA/видео.html
Self taught means no first day. Right? He has a great skill set that comes with time as do all of the safety lessons.. hopefully he reads your comments.
@@racer193wr The trouble with lathes and milling machines (Especially anything mid to large sized) is that, when it comes to safety, you don't always get chance to learn from your mistakes, because the first mistake you make that results in injury has a more than insignificant chance of killing you. In lower gears. Even the average large hobby lathe has more than enough torque to wrap you around the workpiece without breaking a sweat. As AvE says "Not only will this kill you, it'll hurt the whole time you're dying !".
@@DktheWelder Yeah. That's why most lathes ship with that stupid little guard that JUST covers the chuck (Yet still always seems to manage to be in the way ?!?!). These guards usually have an interlock on them so the lathe won't start without the guard down, and the guard won't go down without the key removed........ And the first thing we usually do when we get a new lathe is remove the guard, and disable to interlock. :) After that it's the usual loose clothing/hair/jewellery getting caught on the spinning work. Surprisingly, another big danger is an untidy work area. Apparently it's quite a common accident in messy workshops for the operator to trip or slip on discarded pieces of metal on the floor in front of the lathe and try to grab the big solid (almost "Grab rail" styled) piece of round bar stock right in front of them. Unfortunately, chances are that as they were in front of the lathe when the trip happened, that bar stocks probably spinning. It seems that it's some kind of reflex action that happens before your conscious mind even has chance to assess what you're grabbing for, and a reflex that's damn hard to train out of someone. It's a lot easier to drum it into them that they need to keep their work area clean and tidy.
As always great video Chris and your machining skills and thought process are incredible ! keep up the great work this thing is really coming along and looking good can’t wait to see it in action👍🏼🤩💪🏼
Think I would have spaced the locking lugs in a way that it can only be locked into the correct position. Be interesting locking it for left or right only cornering.
Sway bars are supposed to spring steel. You've made a suspension lock. It's going to break/bend stuff as soon as you hit a big side load with it engaged. Also your shock spring package is not working. There's no way it should stay to one side and just sit there.
Use an obs chevy truck door lock solenoid to actuate that. It's small, water proof, super light weight and easy to fab the mounts. Another thing, it has the right throw.
I'm wondering if you can somehow have pointed pins on the swaybar locker so it can engage at a steep angle.... Also thought about it locking when it's at full lean too so you can hold the weight to one side when crawling to keep you from flipping.
I was thinking the same thing but imagine if he after the rock climbing wants to lock again the swaybar he needs to be in even ground so the suspension be even on both sides I don't how that's gonna work
You should have made the locking spring loaded instead, then you would not need to know when to activate the swaybar lock since when the pins align the spring would push/drag it to locked position, unlocking would not need the spring and it could get overriden. You could still use a gate like you do to keep it in locked/unlocked, exept it would only keep it in unlocked since the spring would keep it in the locked position instead of the gate.
It would auto lock if it had pressure behind sliding bolt. He definitely don't want the rear to auto lock while crawling. Personally I would have automated it with a servo or linear actuator.
in hind sight the connectors between the torsion bar and the suspension might be more stable if it was pulling on the suspension (arms of the torsion bars hanging under the suspension arm) instead of pushing that way the suspension arm doesnt twist putting a load on the joint as for the dog pins , might help engagement if the tips of the dogs are pointed like a pensil
Sway bars are suppose to be spring loaded allowing the bar to make a twisting motion to allow the tire to make contact on uneven surfaces. I'm afraid you will lack traction uneven terrain at higher speeds.
Dude I love how your mind works!!! I hope your next project is an ultralight airplane, because I would really like to see what you "imagineer" to get into the air. :-) Keep up the awesome content big guy and remember "think airplane".
Jeep springs are stronger in the rear driver side suspension because of “squat”. Anti-squat springs are just stronger in driver rear, so you definitely need more nitrogen back there!!
Howzit man, dig your channel, inspires me to complete few projects of my own. I may be wrong, but something i noticed with your clutch on last run,, I couldnt see free play on the clutch lever on the motor. i was shown years ago how/why you adjust the clutch shaft length through the motor to have a fraction free play for it to be fully engaged. if you havent got that mechanical wiggle gap on the motors lever engaging the "through shaft", when your foot is off the clutch pedal and cable is in natural position,, youre riding BOI !!! either cable is to tight or not returning smoothly, or your shaft is set too long. Dont loose the bearing if you take center shaft out!👍👍✊ bit of wiggle allows for "foot ready" position and the thrashing about too, done some track time.✌✌
Those shocks are designed to be used with a swaybar. You cannot disconnect the swaybar and rock crawl. If you think it leans bad in your yard wait until you're offroad and it unloads to one side and flips you on your lid.
This looks amazing, you're extremely talented brother. What made you use this design over a more traditional style sway bar with sway bar links that disconnect. I'm not criticizing just curious because it definitely would have been easier.
wouldnt a set of springs help out to level the frame?, dont know anything about rock crawling but it seems its just missing springs to complement the shocks.
I'm curious why do you take the part you have you are machining out of the lathe, cut it off with the band saw, only to put it back in the lathe? Why not use a parting tool to cut off. Btw your videos are awesome.
Please tell me u turned the lathe on with the bearing on there off Camara just cause u could! I know it's not a good.isea but I don't know if I could have helped myself
Hi, are you using "Spring Steel"? As it is Quite important, or it won't work, as an anti-roll bar (sway bar), & it should be tuned spring rate with adjustments built in to your final design. I hope this helps you. Keep up the good work. See ya. Ian (an Engineer) from England (UK). PS, The whole thing would be better with fully-independent suspension, yours is independent but mounted to a frame that also articulate therefore limiting the effectiveness of each wheel's movement, it's a shame it was made like that!!! However, even rigid axel vehicles (even up to 44T articulated lorries) use anti-roll bars very effectively. It would make a huge difference (fully-independent suspension!!) when driving off-road (especially when driving fast). I hope this also helps. Byyeee. Ian
Cool design, but it seems that the problem is that the suspension does not return to level after being compressed. That is a problem with the shocks, not too much sway.
Chuck key never rests in the chuck. I know it's nagging to hear these things, but we say them for a reason, some really horrific accidents have happened because the key was left in the chuck, untended. You only make this mistake once (knock on wood).
Off topic question: What blade’s do you use in your (green) band saw ? I have the same saw and I’m having trouble finding a quality blade ! PS awesome build
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
You should put a spring on it so when you drive and engage it. It will pull it in place so you won't have to fumble around to lock it in place
Just what I was thinking about
My thoughts exactly, could release the lever while flat and with the spring it'll engage itself once it gets perfectly lined up.
That's a good idea but I bet he's gonna leave it locked a lot more than he thinks... I modified swaybars front and rear on a jeep that just used a hitch pins to disconnect the links and I never unlocked the rear cuz it really does feel a lot more stable even on rocks when the chassis and rear end kind of agree with each other.. I found that the front was where I wanted the crazy flex and I still had more than enough in the rear even with the sway bar engaged...
Darn. Since you were offering him advice, I really expected to see a bunch of amazing fabrication videos on your channel. :(
@@eriklarson9137 more than u have
The bit that impressed me most here Chris is you've got your machining tolerances so tight that you inadvertently create an air bearing... when you're sliding the sleeve over the inner shaft and it free spins like that, it's doing so because there's a layer of air trapped between the two and when you spin the turbulence and pressure difference caused by the two close matched but not touching surfaces is enough to cause the outer one to float relative to the inner part and experience very low friction.
Impressive work.
Chris, your engineering, fabrication and machinists skills are absolutely incredible.
Save a shock run a limiting strap. It will also let you run more preload at whatever the travel is limited to. Great work as always have a great day.
This guys engineering skills are incredible. I sure hope you work somewhere that pays you BIG BUCKS!!!
You are watching his full time job. 👍
@@seantorstenson5502 oh wow
Another person who doesn't understand the work engineer
@@janeblogs324 Oh is that so JANE? Here's Google's definition : the branch of science and technology concerned with the design, building, and use of engines, machines, and structures.
Would you like to pull your foot out of your mouth? Or want me to do it for you?
Glad you said that bigger material than you need always wondered WHY figured it was what you had laying around.
Builds still amaze me what you can build out of a shed keep it up
WOW!! you amaze me with your engineering concepts and skills of implementing your ideas,, you think it up then build it on the fly.
I really enjoy watching all of your engineering/machining, as someone who cant afford the equipment this is as close as I get. thank you
You could use bushing instead of bearings to save a lot of weight since it only rotates slightly, not round and round
is more fast to do with bearings, simple and less friction, just nicer
auto parts store universal red poly sway bar bushings... They usually come with brackets too and I think they look a lot cooler than block bearings... They also allow some flex. I think that rear bar will stay locked more often than not. the front is where u want the unlockable sway bar and it's always more confidence inspiring to have your chassis at least somewhat agree with the rear axle even on rocks...
Brilliant fabrication. Awesome to watch. Excellent video.
Como sempre projeto fantástico!!!
Abraço a todos!!!
Well done Chris!
Very cool ! Your design of the dog clutch inspired my forward reverse gearbox
You are an incredibly talented machinist !!!!!!
Great mod. The only thing i'd change is i'd ditch the ball bearings and go for rubber bushings from something like a truck. An aftermarket split piece kit. You don't need the bearings for something like this. So when you're back from the event, maybe you can swap them out.
One other, small thing, you should make a boot over the locking thingie. If water gets in there, with the tight tolerance, it will rust that thing shut. -Either that, or maybe a grease fitting-. edit: saw the grease fitting. :)) A great boot for this would be a CV joint boot set, again from a truck (big sized boots). Aftermarket stuff will be cheap and you only need it to cover the joint, not actually do work, so it's ok to get the cheapo one.
You deserve this rig to run and function like a top.
Have a chat with Fox about tuning those shocks. Tuning air shocks is not very intuitive but it can make a huge difference. Adding oil will make the shocks harder at full compression, making them more able to keep the vehicle upright.
perfect upload timing🥹 craving for something to watch
You should look into building a ‘mechanical mule.’ I think it would be an awesome project especially from someone as talented as you.
very nice thing to be able to have. On my rzr there is times that having my sway bars on is better and others where its worse. It is something that is well worth.
I like how you make sway bar lock 👌🏼
i know you were in a rush but a "bistable mechanism" with a spring in the handle may solve the issue to lock it in place without having to line the pins manually, cool build tho
Thank you for the awesome content!
I really enjoyed this.
That's awesome. A simple solenoid would make this an electronic swaybar disconnect.
so smart ! love it !
This is an awesome concept. Really great fabrication. Keep up the awesome work!
You just so creative my brother just keep it up, love your channel.
I am continuously amazed at how the scale of your creations can be reduced to the diameter of a hand grinder’s cutting disk….
I say young chap with them skills there's no doubt you can build anything metal or anything else that has machining capabilities 👌☮️
a proper set of springs will keep the machine level without needing the swaybar. then your shocks can be a little softer which is what you want on a rock crawler. you want the tire to be able to go up on the rock with out the machine just tipping. Those shocks are not springs.
that look's so cool man nice job.
Can't wait to see it in action.
When you heading to Durham town? We ride there a good bit, would like to see your builds in person and meet you. It’s always cool to meet other fabricators and someone you’ve been watching build things.
Awesome to watch... as always. Very cool
Chris you are an amazing fabricator, I've been a welder fabricator for 30 years and I'm blown away every time I watch one of your videos!! Keep the videos coming and your video format is top notch! 💪😎👊
I fully appreciate the massive amount of engineering and fab work you've done here, but with all that steel is the thing crazy heavy?
Nice uhh....."eyeballs" you drew on that steel there. 😉
Your my favorite RUclipsr almost the only one I still watch
Impressive fabrication, as always. I have one concern. The new anti-sway system puts a lot of load onto the lower suspension links. This might cause them the bend. It also puts a lateral load onto the lower link rod-ends putting the threaded parts into shear, which is best avoided. These issues would be less critical if there was some "spring" built into the anti-sway linkage, somewhere.
Hey i just wanna say one tiny thing for future "Locking" Put a Curve "Valley" so the "locked" position doesnt fall out of its groove. it saves some headache when it might dissengage @24:44
it's just a nice thing
Come on Chris, the lathes chuck key is in your hand or on the bench. NEVER leave it hanging out of the chuck. There's been a lot of bad accidents from people forgetting that. That heavy lump of metal can have a lot of kinetic energy if you absent mindedly hit the power button and it flies out in a random direction. It's also something that could catch clothing and pull you in.
I know you're a self taught machinest, but this is first day basic safety stuff.
And we need to get him to look into some better bars/inserts. The bar and insert he is using is meant for finish work. I hate seeing the long ribbons of steel it makes as he is turning it down to size. Someone get this man a chip breaker setup! Like his bar at 6:25 ruclips.net/video/vkh7ITmUhFA/видео.html
Self taught means no first day. Right? He has a great skill set that comes with time as do all of the safety lessons.. hopefully he reads your comments.
Yeah the chuck key thing was pretty much the main danger for the lathe safety
@@racer193wr The trouble with lathes and milling machines (Especially anything mid to large sized) is that, when it comes to safety, you don't always get chance to learn from your mistakes, because the first mistake you make that results in injury has a more than insignificant chance of killing you. In lower gears. Even the average large hobby lathe has more than enough torque to wrap you around the workpiece without breaking a sweat.
As AvE says "Not only will this kill you, it'll hurt the whole time you're dying !".
@@DktheWelder Yeah. That's why most lathes ship with that stupid little guard that JUST covers the chuck (Yet still always seems to manage to be in the way ?!?!). These guards usually have an interlock on them so the lathe won't start without the guard down, and the guard won't go down without the key removed........ And the first thing we usually do when we get a new lathe is remove the guard, and disable to interlock. :)
After that it's the usual loose clothing/hair/jewellery getting caught on the spinning work.
Surprisingly, another big danger is an untidy work area. Apparently it's quite a common accident in messy workshops for the operator to trip or slip on discarded pieces of metal on the floor in front of the lathe and try to grab the big solid (almost "Grab rail" styled) piece of round bar stock right in front of them. Unfortunately, chances are that as they were in front of the lathe when the trip happened, that bar stocks probably spinning. It seems that it's some kind of reflex action that happens before your conscious mind even has chance to assess what you're grabbing for, and a reflex that's damn hard to train out of someone. It's a lot easier to drum it into them that they need to keep their work area clean and tidy.
Looking good Chris! Well done! 👍😁
As always great video Chris and your machining skills and thought process are incredible ! keep up the great work this thing is really coming along and looking good can’t wait to see it in action👍🏼🤩💪🏼
Think I would have spaced the locking lugs in a way that it can only be locked into the correct position. Be interesting locking it for left or right only cornering.
awesome idea cool
Moving the tops of the shocks closer to each other helps with roll and it will save some weight.
You built trophy truck mode. Then you also have , full rock sway mode. Dope video.
Allsome work 😃👍👌😊 from cruzermans inventions 👍
Anti-sway bars require springiness and I expect with any significant use something is either going to bend or break with this setup. 100%
The sway bar is great wrk tho. Came out sweet.
You deserve a lot more subscribers the stuff you build is genius
Sway bars are supposed to spring steel. You've made a suspension lock. It's going to break/bend stuff as soon as you hit a big side load with it engaged. Also your shock spring package is not working. There's no way it should stay to one side and just sit there.
I am surprised I had to scroll this far for this comment. Cool project but this dude clearly doesn’t know what a sway bar is.
But all those comments saying he's a great engineer
He's going to find out the hard way, unfortunately.
@@suzukiman650 The size of the lever arm he made is ridiculous. I don’t think that mild steel will last its first drive.
Use an obs chevy truck door lock solenoid to actuate that. It's small, water proof, super light weight and easy to fab the mounts. Another thing, it has the right throw.
That's sick bro 🔥 Awesome fabricating skills 🔥
Maybe you could add a spring loaded catch for safety. So you have to push something on the lever, for the lever to move.
Love it
I'm wondering if you can somehow have pointed pins on the swaybar locker so it can engage at a steep angle.... Also thought about it locking when it's at full lean too so you can hold the weight to one side when crawling to keep you from flipping.
I was thinking the same thing but imagine if he after the rock climbing wants to lock again the swaybar he needs to be in even ground so the suspension be even on both sides I don't how that's gonna work
Springs on that thing will also help some and help it re-center after tilting
8:02 those tolerances make me drool lmao
I’ve been wanting to do this for so long lmao
You should have made the locking spring loaded instead, then you would not need to know when to activate the swaybar lock since when the pins align the spring would push/drag it to locked position, unlocking would not need the spring and it could get overriden.
You could still use a gate like you do to keep it in locked/unlocked, exept it would only keep it in unlocked since the spring would keep it in the locked position instead of the gate.
It would auto lock if it had pressure behind sliding bolt. He definitely don't want the rear to auto lock while crawling.
Personally I would have automated it with a servo or linear actuator.
?No springs on or with your rear shocks?
Would help with returning the body to flat position after cornering.
And with rock bouncing.
The technology is there
in hind sight the connectors between the torsion bar and the suspension might be more stable if it was pulling on the suspension (arms of the torsion bars hanging under the suspension arm) instead of pushing that way the suspension arm doesnt twist putting a load on the joint
as for the dog pins , might help engagement if the tips of the dogs are pointed like a pensil
Sway bars are suppose to be spring loaded allowing the bar to make a twisting motion to allow the tire to make contact on uneven surfaces. I'm afraid you will lack traction uneven terrain at higher speeds.
Agreed 100%. Something is going to break or bend.
Dude I love how your mind works!!! I hope your next project is an ultralight airplane, because I would really like to see what you "imagineer" to get into the air. :-) Keep up the awesome content big guy and remember "think airplane".
during your demonstration of body roll....were the shocks at operating pressure ( correctly charged ) ?
Jeep springs are stronger in the rear driver side suspension because of “squat”. Anti-squat springs are just stronger in driver rear, so you definitely need more nitrogen back there!!
As someone else mentioned below swaybar are supposed to be spring steel. You will need proper swaybar that flex with those shocks or run coilovers.
Howzit man, dig your channel, inspires me to complete few projects of my own. I may be wrong, but something i noticed with your clutch on last run,, I couldnt see free play on the clutch lever on the motor. i was shown years ago how/why you adjust the clutch shaft length through the motor to have a fraction free play for it to be fully engaged. if you havent got that mechanical wiggle gap on the motors lever engaging the "through shaft", when your foot is off the clutch pedal and cable is in natural position,, youre riding BOI !!! either cable is to tight or not returning smoothly, or your shaft is set too long. Dont loose the bearing if you take center shaft out!👍👍✊ bit of wiggle allows for "foot ready" position and the thrashing about too, done some track time.✌✌
Those shocks are designed to be used with a swaybar. You cannot disconnect the swaybar and rock crawl. If you think it leans bad in your yard wait until you're offroad and it unloads to one side and flips you on your lid.
He doesn’t really listen to criticism
This looks amazing, you're extremely talented brother. What made you use this design over a more traditional style sway bar with sway bar links that disconnect. I'm not criticizing just curious because it definitely would have been easier.
Chris should be working for Barnes Offroad. He builds everything beefy enough.
wouldnt a set of springs help out to level the frame?, dont know anything about rock crawling but it seems its just missing springs to complement the shocks.
This is off topic however why are there no springs in the suspension?
U need to put more air in those shocks it shouldn't stay sideways like that that means the shocks can't rebound needs more uplift rebound on shocks
Let him break his spine on the first bump
I'm curious why do you take the part you have you are machining out of the lathe, cut it off with the band saw, only to put it back in the lathe? Why not use a parting tool to cut off. Btw your videos are awesome.
I also wondered this. Cutting with a bandsaw isn’t known to be fast either..
Nothing faster at removing material than a saw. And it requires a lot less skill than parting.
Why is the rebound on those dampners so horrible?
Are they designed to be run with a return spring?
Crazy. But I’m making something similar. Good video
Please tell me u turned the lathe on with the bearing on there off Camara just cause u could! I know it's not a good.isea but I don't know if I could have helped myself
Excellent work, as usual. Where do you get your rod ends?
2:59 bro drawn himself a set of honkadonka wonkedy clonckas
That looks like it'll work great. Might be a little noisy.
Question: what kind of tubing or pipe do you use?
Doesn't it lean cause no springs?
what's the song at 11:00?
Whoo!
Come on man!!! Plasma cutters, torch cutter, anything else than band shaw cutters for round things cutting....
that's a clever design but i think you will have a lot of trouble to engage and disengage if you're not in flat terrain
Hi, are you using "Spring Steel"? As it is Quite important, or it won't work, as an anti-roll bar (sway bar), & it should be tuned spring rate with adjustments built in to your final design. I hope this helps you. Keep up the good work. See ya. Ian (an Engineer) from England (UK). PS, The whole thing would be better with fully-independent suspension, yours is independent but mounted to a frame that also articulate therefore limiting the effectiveness of each wheel's movement, it's a shame it was made like that!!! However, even rigid axel vehicles (even up to 44T articulated lorries) use anti-roll bars very effectively. It would make a huge difference (fully-independent suspension!!) when driving off-road (especially when driving fast). I hope this also helps. Byyeee. Ian
Yay it's RBW day....
Kinda like a swaybar disconnect on a Rubicon?
Cool design, but it seems that the problem is that the suspension does not return to level after being compressed. That is a problem with the shocks, not too much sway.
Stiction is kind of a classic issue with air shocks like this. Which he would have known had he done any research what-so-ever.
Now you can lock it at any angle as well
calculated length limit straps would help maybe?
These engines make all the power over 8 grand Rev those thi6
Chuck key never rests in the chuck. I know it's nagging to hear these things, but we say them for a reason, some really horrific accidents have happened because the key was left in the chuck, untended. You only make this mistake once (knock on wood).
Off topic question:
What blade’s do you use in your (green) band saw ?
I have the same saw and I’m having trouble finding a quality blade !
PS awesome build
What kind of gearbox is that on the rear end