Facing A Nearly Impossible Climb: Blood On The Crack | w/ Kevin Jorgeson
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Kevin Jorgeson and Jacob Cook head to the Bugaboos to attempt the second ascent of the Tom Egan Memorial Route.
Directed by Heather Mosher
This climbing route, named "Blood on the crack", contains one of the hardest, most excruciating crack climbs in the world, renowned for reducing fingertips to shreds.
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Directed by Heather Mosher
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Jacob Cook is my university professor. Rad climber, rad math nerd too
what does he teach?
Woah seriously? That's awesome!
thats crazy can you tell more?
@@newbyoes I would geuss ... Math
@@AMM1998 yeah he teaches this class called "puzzles paradoxes, and the infinite" its a math course. He teaches in BC, Canada :)
Props to Will and Matt for freeing this beast of a route and to Jacob and KJ for having the audacity to try it
Gotta give credit where credit is due. 🙌
That looks so painful, Kevin is such a motivated climber though.
The Bugaboos: almost as much fun as slamming your fingers in a car door.
That 90's Casio digital watch is SASSY
I have been wanting to see footage of this climb since the photos of it came out a few years ago. Just amazing climbing! It would be cool to see some shots from further out to see how small they are on this giant wall.
Good idea for next time! For sense of scale in this one, it's quite subtle but check out the shot at 9:00 - you can see the haul bag and fixed line in the middle of the headwall.
Been there, done that... in my young years. The bugaboos are something else. 4 hours away or so from my farm. Well worth the trip. Bring supplies though, its a bit remote.
I have been waiting to see an attempt at a tag of the second ascent of this beast. Really goes to show just how much of a beast Stanhope is at gnarly crack climbs. Can't wait until next season to see the progress these two make, hopefully they'll fire the thing!
Jacob went back for a second try last summer and made a really solid effort... still no second ascent though. Will have to see what happens in 2019!
I understand the appeal of mastering a hard climb, I understand the appeal of reaching the summit, and I absolutely understand the appeal of doing something no one has done before, and I understand the appeal of doing something for its dadaistic qualities.
But I don't understand why anyone would do this to themselves.
It’s always crazy watching videos about the bugaboos as it is only about 45 minutes from my house
@wideboyz @latticetraining @TomRandall @petewhittaker
Lets see it boys!!
That climb is beautiful, but looks miiiserable! Great job getting at it, guys!
"I love slamming my fingers in car doors" - Jacob Cook, basically
"Blood on the Crack 2: The Return of the Iron Fingers"
would be a better title for the sequal attempt.
😂
Wow! Amazing place and an awesome adventure!
😎
I could watch them mime all day
How do they set this all up? I have no knowledge of climbing / mountaineering but it's fascinating to me. Can anyone recommend a video or article that shows how they can even climb something like this? Who puts the lines together etc. Sorry if I sound like a dumbass lol.
Im new to climbing and have a question, so when u find a route you want to climb such as this is the objective of free climbing to do it from bottom to top in ONE go or when they fall do they start back from where they fell. Im having trouble understanding this, and when they are done for the day do they scale the wall back up to their previous stopping point the next morning? I just dont understand.
The route is broken up into pitches, related to rope length. Say this is 8 pitches (I'm not sure how many it is). They'll work on each pitch until they've free climbed it, then move on to the next one. If they've completed the first 3 pitches, then the next day they'll start by jumaring up the ropes (ascending devices you see them using for example at 5:31) to start at the bottom of pitch 4. If they fall they start at the bottom of the pitch again. They aren't trying to do all 8 pitches in one attempt on one day, but to have free climbed each of the pitches without falling.
The fact that Kevin really brought that hat up there 😅
Before you watch this video go to 4:01
I liked the piece charades!
Are those old Vapor V‘s?!
Bad dudes!
Amazing!
I'd like to see "The Making of", because I want to know how they got those camera angles.
The camera men are also elite climbers, and they are just hanging on a rope on the wall above them with a piece of gear. The pro climbers likely put the gear in first for them and then they just climb up the rope, but they aren’t clueless camera men, they are skilled climbers too.
That's an idea!
There is more than one way to climb Snow Patch Spire. One way to get cameras above the action is to climb a different route and rappel down to the desired spot.
@@professorsogol5824 That is true, there are many ways to climb Snowpatch Spire... but in this case, we jugged up fixed lines to the crux pitches. The Blood on the Crack pitch is about 1000 ft up a 2000 ft wall... to climb a different route and then rap down would take a lot of time and energy!
Send it
Does anyone know the name of the song at 8:09? I've heard it before and I can't remember the name!!!
It's called "Inselurlaub" by Hanjo Gäbler
The impossible climb for sure now. Rip
The route has been so deeply integrated into their muscle memory they can pantomime about a certain point of the route and guess it right??? Get out of here!
Άγγελος Καλαθάς I’m certainly not comparing myself to these guys skill level, but I’ve worked on a few routes for long enough that i could still mime every move on them. Surprisingly easier to memorize than you’d think.
They've also made a point to memorize the route, taking notes on every single move and gear placement, and have a detailed map of the route in their "nerdy notebook" (7:17)... that definitely helps!
Nope not climbing that in this lifetime maybe next time!!!...
Never say never! 😂
“Impossible Climb”- isn’t that what folks said about free soloing el cap...and free climbing the dawn wall
Kevin free climbed the dawn wall 😂
Is that Harry Kanes long lost brother?
Nice
That's Jacob Cook in the thumbnail ya knobs
#technicallykaran
Not bad.
has a climber ever had a finger ripped out?
Quick google search comes up positive.
yeeewwww
...
Y NOE EYE PROTECTION FROM GRIT AND POWDER GETTING INTO EYES: GOGGLES, SHIELDS, GLASSES!??! GRANITE GRIT IN THE EYES WITH NO FREE HAND!?!
#epic 🤙
Oh yeah I’ll start streaming once I get to 100 subs
Sounds like you need a Honnold on the rack
Noice
3rd
8th
Saludame
gear charades v nerdy
Alex Honnold would climb it without a rope 👀
No he wouldn't.
Nice