I liked this video, like I do 99% of your others. The reason for this one is that yet again you show your mistakes. In an online world that deems editted perfection to drive user engagement, I apreciate the humanity you bring.
Hi im Jamie from Adelaide South Australia . Very nice work . love watching your vids . Thats why we like to buy American products . "GOOD QUALITY" . Thanks bye .
Good video content- but I also wanted to acknowledge the excellent camera work. As someone who has created project videos in the past, I can really appreciate the extra effort for setting up a camera simply to show us brushing anchor lube onto the tap! Lol! Good stuff
A good example how castings are a pain in the butt! People are suggesting a ball-end mill, which would work, but a few licks with a round file would probably look good and save a set up. Good video.
I watch a lot of people on here build all kinds of stuff, but you seem to be the only one with sharpened drills, what a joy it is to watch a real machinist work.
I’m really glad that your doing this build it’s nice to see ya doing what you’re passionate about. And back to the old days of some really good content. I appreciate you sharing with us. And I love all your videos. Just feel like you’re doing something that reminded me of your older videos. Thank you bud
You should be able to blend that anvil with a ball mill. Should be rather simple. Should look really good with a radius. Great video thanks for sharing
The knowledge you have is found in not many others. What you have is so great to see and used in a way that is very specific, that's why what ever you do always looks great.
CNC's aside, it seems to me that, once the prototype setup is done, ten more could be completed in the same amount of time. Perhaps that is what you and Jason have in mind. Once things are worked out, the FlexCNC would seem to be the obvious choice to crank out a production order. In fact, I would really like to see that.
Pro tip: when you loosen a bunch of bolts get some cheap colored fridge magnets (preferably in a high vis color) and drop them on every bolt you loosen. Then when you tighten them you can pull them off so you know you did it. You can also count how many you put on and then match the count when you think you're done.
9:55 I think that's a good plan Adam! ... think that little strip there, will become invisible, once the vise is in use for a few months, some hammer strikes some file marks and weld splatter :) will make it bled right in! ... no worries! This vice is MEANT to be used daily!! :) .. the 45° cutter will work great! :)
Supposed to be machined near perfect; the task being to show that the machining done by team USA in some way trumps that of those machined in Taiwan, thus at least in part, justifying the hugely inflated price tag. Or what you might be required to do in industry; say to machine a few samples ( along with CMM measured data sheets) to prove to the customer that you can consistently machine the part to spec, in order to win the contract to make a batch of them. No need to be within a thou from nominal for a dimension with a 10 thou tolerance, but do need your finishes to be absent of ringing, the interface of machining to cast surface, whether stepped or radiused, to be correct and all the drilled and tapped holes to be in the right places.
Some critical machinning there. I see there are two sets of parallel lines to machine by, the bottom and inside rails and the side flange and jaw face. The two sets have to be a perfect 90 deg angle to eachother for the vice to be spot on.💫
Great job , think a wee burl with a ball nose end mill as other commenters have said would be good I was more concerned with who took the casting lines out with a grinder and a blindfold , it’s a shame as Jason has a decent video out on angle grinding neatly to a high standard he needs to show this to whoever he had grind up that casting not being negative I love your work and have been a subscriber for years 👍🏻
Adam, let me start by saying I am not a machinist, with that out of the way I think a ball end mill would do the trick on that little step on the anvil face. As for the rear face me thinks a face mill with a rounded edge would have done a good job with the radius.
Adam, I think there's an issue with the 4 holes (or at least two of them) that you just drilled and tapped for fixing the tail to the rear of the vice. My ex-draughtsman's senses twitched when, having seen you spot the centres of the 'top' two holes (those adjacent to the Anvil), that you then just trammed straight 'down' to the do the same for the two near the base flange. My concern, was that I was sure that the two bottom ones, look to be on a wider pitch than those up by the Anvil. Quickly looking back in the video at the rear of the finished vice fixed to your bench, seems to confirm this. Going the extra mile, I've also referred back to the first episode, where you let us see the drawing Jason supplied. On it, there is indeed only one dimension (2.500") for the 4 x 5/16-18 UNC threads, but if you hold a ruler along the inner vertical face of the casting there, you can clearly see that the upper hole is inside of that line, whilst the lower one is outside of the line. In other words, the lower pair of holes are on a wider pitch than the 2.500" of the upper ones. Makes sense - presumably, without the cut-outs in the upper flange (either side of the Anvil), all four flange bolts would be at the wider pitch of the lower two. The lower two definitely need to be out that far, in order to be able to access them with an Allen key for assembly/dis-assembly. They'll be hidden awkwardly under the vice tail, if pitched the same as those up by the Anvil.
Adam doesn't often do stuff to a supplied drawing ( post his time at Motion). And sometimes he makes his own drawing. He had a similar problem on the Fairbanks Power hammer project a couple of years back. In industry, I believe that a customer's drawing goes into the QC to get checked for missing dimensions, incompatible dimensions, or any other discrepancies. That way , when a part is made on the machine, it does not tie down the machine in down time waiting for a drawing problem reply from the client.
I'm wondering if there is a reason for not using a bull nose cutter(the wrong term?) to remove the double step on the anvil part? I'd think a curved corner would look neat and dissipate shock from a square edge.
Thanks for a really well made and informative video. Having watched your channel almost from the beginning I'm sure that both your dad and grandfather would be most proud of the shop you built and the way you maintain it.
Every time I watch one of your videos, I am impressed by your craftsmanship in setting-up, aligning and machining the metal. BTW, isn't it so that a threaded fastener in a threaded hole is called a screw, and it is called a bolt only when a nut is involved? Absolutely no offense intended, but in my native language (Dutch) things may be different than in American English. I keep following your channel when time permits!
I think you could probably ease that step off with a file in a few minutes. Or leave it as a reminder to double check things. In my youth, I went out drinking with the wrong sorts of folks and one of them ended up sucker punching me and chipped one of my teeth. I can still feel the chip, it's a daily reminder to double check who I'm hanging out with.
Cool video,I like the order of operations you've outlined for this. Be cool on the tail extension to mill your logo into,being you have the CNC. maybe do the West Weld mod to it? Cant wait to see what comes next!
Looking at the "standard", purchased vice, there is a "lip" t the same place Abom is concerned about. I assume (dangerous as that is!) that milling surfaces into a casting often will show slight differences between each original item. That "lip" or edge will likely be in all finished pieces.
all he has to do is get a ballnose endmill and mill the step out, which will leave a nice radius too (he can reach way further out because its a smaller diameter). But i guess thats too much work or some XD
Hey Adam, is there a reason you used standard taps on that cast iron and not a roll-over tap? I was always told to use roll-over taps on cast iron because it's a stronger thread and doesn't rip out. Or is it not really necessary?
Well I can’t critique the machining because it’s spot on, but, you could always run a ball nose end mill along that step or just say that I left it there for a square reference point 😂. And aren’t the jaws going to be a little wonky if you only rotate it a 100 degrees for the next op 😎😎😎😂😂😂😂. I just wanted to pick on you and be “your usual commentator “. Carry on mate 👍👍😜
@@Birdhouseboi810 I wouldn’t even know how to do that and the type of work that he does. He’s probably really expensive but you pay for what you get definitely.
@@93jdmmike I think people usually email him with all the specs on what they want, then ship it to him. But I'd assume he's pretty expensive but you're 100% correct you get what you pay for. I'd say he's one of the top machinists on youtube if not the US. I enjoy his videos a lot, because although I'm a welder by trade. I do understand and want to buy my own mill and lathe to do my own machining.
see the problems in manufacturing a product that was initially designed as a welding project and got changed to use cast parts without much thought given to ease of assembly
Could have taken a scrap piece of plate steel drilled 2 holes to fit the angle plate and 2 holes to fir the vice then counter bored them and used counter sunk bolts and not modified a nice tool
When we made our vice in trade school, we used a shaper to machine the internal surfaces of the fixed Jaw. I still have my vices. Will you use your shaper too?
I have trouble understanding how the edge finder works, it seems very subjective to me, once it stops wiggling and becomes perfectly strait, one would think is your edge, but I see almost everyone who uses one, go past the perfectly strait, and seem to make it spin smoothly but slightly offset? Unless there is marks on the top that become visible once it’s slightly offset? And no one has shown this assuming everyone knows??
Since you won't be able to tell by eye when both parts of the edge finder are perfectly concentric, you go past that point until it kicks out to the side, which is by probably around 1mm in metric (Yes, it kicks out by 1mm even if you only go past the edge of the part by 0,01). This makes it easy to spot when you found the edge, it is without problem repeatable within 0,01mm in error as well, which is more than accurate enough for almost any purpose bar extremely high precision parts.
adam shouldn't all your refrences derive from the vice screw or possibly the nut? thanks for the vids... i wondered about the centring last video and thought it should be relative to the slide jaw but have thought that through and come up with the screw/nut ..still cant decide which is the key factor, or am i missing it totally lol.
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If you want to pretty that step up, get the appropriate sized ball mill and run it across that step. It will look great.
He could do it on the CNC Mill with a ball nose end mill.
My thoughts exactly, I think that would look great!
Was my first thoughts too👍
@@bobbyvance6622 I would have thought he would get the cad file and do a full cnc surfacing job on the main body to make it look unique
Glad i didnt have to make this comment!
Precisely what I need after work, an Abom79 video keep these coming!!
I liked this video, like I do 99% of your others. The reason for this one is that yet again you show your mistakes. In an online world that deems editted perfection to drive user engagement, I apreciate the humanity you bring.
Always great!! I love this channel. This and CEE are my favorites
Hi im Jamie from Adelaide South Australia . Very nice work . love watching your vids . Thats why we like to buy American products . "GOOD QUALITY" . Thanks bye .
Use a round end mill to finish off the step at the back of the anvil.
I like this suggestion; the little step isn't bad - I like where it sits. A nice radius in there will dress it up perfectly.
Good video content- but I also wanted to acknowledge the excellent camera work. As someone who has created project videos in the past, I can really appreciate the extra effort for setting up a camera simply to show us brushing anchor lube onto the tap! Lol! Good stuff
A good example how castings are a pain in the butt! People are suggesting a ball-end mill, which would work, but a few licks with a round file would probably look good and save a set up. Good video.
I watch a lot of people on here build all kinds of stuff, but you seem to be the only one with sharpened drills, what a joy it is to watch a real machinist work.
Love watching this as I am from Spokane where this vice was made!
You can use a needle scaler to blend the grind marks to look more like the original cast.
People usually don't appreciate how much work goes into making something like a vice
I'm not saying that it is difficult, just saying that there's many operations to turn cast part into a working vice. @@SteveColluns-hm2xx
This is a great project! Really enjoying the machining of some chunky stuff. Thanks for all the hard work. Your channel is really well produced!
i see that giant flex in the background and wonder how quick it would blast this casting to dimension...
Adam, I love the way that something being functionally acceptable isn't good enough - you have to be happy with the way it looks too.
I’m really glad that your doing this build it’s nice to see ya doing what you’re passionate about. And back to the old days of some really good content. I appreciate you sharing with us. And I love all your videos. Just feel like you’re doing something that reminded me of your older videos. Thank you bud
Might run a Ball nose down that and clean it up. Do a curve fix on the back of the Anvil.
15:38 - Spot on! You gotta love it!
Yup! Nine inches, dead nuts.... it's a great feeling when you get a dimensionally perfect finish cut.
You should be able to blend that anvil with a ball mill. Should be rather simple. Should look really good with a radius. Great video thanks for sharing
Lots of naysayers, Adam. It's your life, so do what makes you happy. I still enjoy watching your content. Keep it up, sir.
I would blend that step on the anvil face with a radius cutter eg. a "ball nose" endmill.
H i Adam, I have been watching your videos since you started and look forward to each new one. Keep up the good work!
The knowledge you have is found in not many others. What you have is so great to see and used in a way that is very specific, that's why what ever you do always looks great.
I think a 1" ball end mill would probably quickly clean up the little whoopsie on the anvil and look good.
Adam Could You Bolt It Back On The Table And Run A Ball Mill Over That Step And Have A nice Radius There
I would blend the anvil and base radii with a ball mill.
CNC's aside, it seems to me that, once the prototype setup is done, ten more could be completed in the same amount of time. Perhaps that is what you and Jason have in mind. Once things are worked out, the FlexCNC would seem to be the obvious choice to crank out a production order. In fact, I would really like to see that.
I milled a step in my real anvil. Very useful. Like 15 years ago.
Use a ball end mill to ease the radius. I would look good.
Love the process !
Coming right along!
This is headed to be the G O A T of vices! Ray
Pro tip: when you loosen a bunch of bolts get some cheap colored fridge magnets (preferably in a high vis color) and drop them on every bolt you loosen. Then when you tighten them you can pull them off so you know you did it. You can also count how many you put on and then match the count when you think you're done.
9:55 I think that's a good plan Adam! ... think that little strip there, will become invisible, once the vise is in use for a few months, some hammer strikes some file marks and weld splatter :) will make it bled right in! ... no worries! This vice is MEANT to be used daily!! :) .. the 45° cutter will work great! :)
Supposed to be machined near perfect; the task being to show that the machining done by team USA in some way trumps that of those machined in Taiwan, thus at least in part, justifying the hugely inflated price tag. Or what you might be required to do in industry; say to machine a few samples ( along with CMM measured data sheets) to prove to the customer that you can consistently machine the part to spec, in order to win the contract to make a batch of them. No need to be within a thou from nominal for a dimension with a 10 thou tolerance, but do need your finishes to be absent of ringing, the interface of machining to cast surface, whether stepped or radiused, to be correct and all the drilled and tapped holes to be in the right places.
awesome milling
Some critical machinning there. I see there are two sets of parallel lines to machine by, the bottom and inside rails and the side flange and jaw face. The two sets have to be a perfect 90 deg angle to eachother for the vice to be spot on.💫
Lol. I would like to be the 4000 person to mention a ball style end mill 😂 kidding. Awesome video Aaron.
That step you put in? 1/4" or 1/8" Ball end mill and make it a fillet. Just don't go all the way end to end, and I think it will work.
Nice to see such a neat and tidy workplace, congratulations 😉
Everybody makes mistakes and you make very few, so just call it custom! 😀
A round end mill would work well on those two steps or a chamfer bit.🤔🤔
Yeah touch off on a paper receipt then do it purty ❤
Really enjoyed!!Nicely done ,,Tight,Tidy! Cheers!;-)!!
Your videos are very cool! I like seeing a professional like you go through the steps.
So far so good,Adam.Thank you for your hard work.
Great job , think a wee burl with a ball nose end mill as other commenters have said would be good I was more concerned with who took the casting lines out with a grinder and a blindfold , it’s a shame as Jason has a decent video out on angle grinding neatly to a high standard he needs to show this to whoever he had grind up that casting not being negative I love your work and have been a subscriber for years 👍🏻
I never cease to be amazed by your skills at machining metal. Can't wait for the next episode.
I liked that 9. 0000 , that third and fourth zero are skill, the first two are equipment and tooling..
Adam, let me start by saying I am not a machinist, with that out of the way I think a ball end mill would do the trick on that little step on the anvil face. As for the rear face me thinks a face mill with a rounded edge would have done a good job with the radius.
I sure enjoy this project. Thank you for sharing.
Do you have a 1.5 in ball mill? I think that radius would look better where the steps are.
Maybe a ball end mill to round out the step on the pad ?
Adam, I think there's an issue with the 4 holes (or at least two of them) that you just drilled and tapped for fixing the tail to the rear of the vice. My ex-draughtsman's senses twitched when, having seen you spot the centres of the 'top' two holes (those adjacent to the Anvil), that you then just trammed straight 'down' to the do the same for the two near the base flange. My concern, was that I was sure that the two bottom ones, look to be on a wider pitch than those up by the Anvil. Quickly looking back in the video at the rear of the finished vice fixed to your bench, seems to confirm this. Going the extra mile, I've also referred back to the first episode, where you let us see the drawing Jason supplied. On it, there is indeed only one dimension (2.500") for the 4 x 5/16-18 UNC threads, but if you hold a ruler along the inner vertical face of the casting there, you can clearly see that the upper hole is inside of that line, whilst the lower one is outside of the line. In other words, the lower pair of holes are on a wider pitch than the 2.500" of the upper ones. Makes sense - presumably, without the cut-outs in the upper flange (either side of the Anvil), all four flange bolts would be at the wider pitch of the lower two. The lower two definitely need to be out that far, in order to be able to access them with an Allen key for assembly/dis-assembly. They'll be hidden awkwardly under the vice tail, if pitched the same as those up by the Anvil.
Snap Steven,
I thought the same myself mate
Adam doesn't often do stuff to a supplied drawing ( post his time at Motion). And sometimes he makes his own drawing. He had a similar problem on the Fairbanks Power hammer project a couple of years back. In industry, I believe that a customer's drawing goes into the QC to get checked for missing dimensions, incompatible dimensions, or any other discrepancies. That way , when a part is made on the machine, it does not tie down the machine in down time waiting for a drawing problem reply from the client.
@@chainspending6343 At 2.44 says it all. But crickets from other viewers on this ( mistake?). Hmm.
Most excellent.
Nice job thanks Adam
Leave it. It adds character. It looks fine
I'm wondering if there is a reason for not using a bull nose cutter(the wrong term?) to remove the double step on the anvil part? I'd think a curved corner would look neat and dissipate shock from a square edge.
It's so good to see abomb do the abomb thing again
I would clean up that step with a ball nose end mill or by hand.
Or use a button insert face mill for the whole face.
Just think about Adam ! thanks!
Interesting video Adam, thanks
you could take a ball endmill to blend in that step on the anvil
I was interrupted two times by ads. So I finished this abo.
How is RUclipss agressive advertising for their premium crap Aboms fault??
Thanks for a really well made and informative video. Having watched your channel almost from the beginning I'm sure that both your dad and grandfather would be most proud of the shop you built and the way you maintain it.
Adam, wouldn't the setup for that been much easier on the K&T horizontal mill in your home shop?
Thanks for sharing.
Every time I watch one of your videos, I am impressed by your craftsmanship in setting-up, aligning and machining the metal. BTW, isn't it so that a threaded fastener in a threaded hole is called a screw, and it is called a bolt only when a nut is involved? Absolutely no offense intended, but in my native language (Dutch) things may be different than in American English. I keep following your channel when time permits!
Good job 😊
I would probably blend that down with an angle grinder. so far so good.
I would have just blended it in with a round cutter to get rid of most of the step
I think you could probably ease that step off with a file in a few minutes. Or leave it as a reminder to double check things.
In my youth, I went out drinking with the wrong sorts of folks and one of them ended up sucker punching me and chipped one of my teeth. I can still feel the chip, it's a daily reminder to double check who I'm hanging out with.
Mad respect for you Adam, always have..... just wish you were back into the "more vid time" & "more machining"
As I watch Adam machining this vise I keep thinking, "Yep, now _that_ is MADE IN U.S.A."
I would blend that step on the anvil in with a band file.
Then you can get hit that area and the other ground areas with a needle scalar to blend in that cast finish
Good stuff
Love that hat... I think I need one
Cool video,I like the order of operations you've outlined for this. Be cool on the tail extension to mill your logo into,being you have the CNC. maybe do the West Weld mod to it? Cant wait to see what comes next!
Use face mill with round inserts
2nd that
Need updates on the property you bought and how you are going to setup the house and shop or is that still in future plans
Remember when Tom Lipton made the baby bullet? Maybe you could do some engine turning on that anvil face, dress it up a little.😊
Looking at the "standard", purchased vice, there is a "lip" t the same place Abom is concerned about. I assume (dangerous as that is!) that milling surfaces into a casting often will show slight differences between each original item. That "lip" or edge will likely be in all finished pieces.
I'm sure he'll blend those steps with a flapper wheel... The one's the was left on the anvil part of the vise... And going to look good.
Mill the step off and leave a pocket without cutting into the radius of the casting . That would look best imo . Sweet vice tho
all he has to do is get a ballnose endmill and mill the step out, which will leave a nice radius too (he can reach way further out because its a smaller diameter).
But i guess thats too much work or some XD
Blend with ball end mill
17:23 .. and .. 18:03 .. Is that just me? Or does Adam keep calling the Swivel or Turret, on the milling machine a "Turr-ant" ??
Hey Adam, is there a reason you used standard taps on that cast iron and not a roll-over tap? I was always told to use roll-over taps on cast iron because it's a stronger thread and doesn't rip out. Or is it not really necessary?
Rolled threads are generally stronger than cut threads (in any material), but that doesn't mean cut threads aren't strong.
I may be over thinking; I see you are square front to back with the faceplate but what about left to right? I would call it slop from the holes.
Blend that step with a flap disk and I’m sure you wont even notice anything.
how about blending in the anvil with a ball mill or just dress in the casting to blend into the machined surface
What would be the harm if that anvil surface were left higher and add to the reference for the bolt pattern below?
Or work from the datum base for the hole positions.
Well I can’t critique the machining because it’s spot on, but, you could always run a ball nose end mill along that step or just say that I left it there for a square reference point 😂. And aren’t the jaws going to be a little wonky if you only rotate it a 100 degrees for the next op 😎😎😎😂😂😂😂. I just wanted to pick on you and be “your usual commentator “. Carry on mate 👍👍😜
Nice work as always buddy I wish you lived closer to me. I would like to get a couple a couple things machined
You could always ship to him. He has machined a few items for viewers and made a video about it.
@@Birdhouseboi810 I wouldn’t even know how to do that and the type of work that he does. He’s probably really expensive but you pay for what you get definitely.
@@93jdmmike I think people usually email him with all the specs on what they want, then ship it to him.
But I'd assume he's pretty expensive but you're 100% correct you get what you pay for. I'd say he's one of the top machinists on youtube if not the US. I enjoy his videos a lot, because although I'm a welder by trade. I do understand and want to buy my own mill and lathe to do my own machining.
@@Birdhouseboi810 yes I believe so. I’ve been watching him for many many years. Love the content.
see the problems in manufacturing a product that was initially designed as a welding project and got changed to use cast parts without much thought given to ease of assembly
Could have taken a scrap piece of plate steel drilled 2 holes to fit the angle plate and 2 holes to fir the vice then counter bored them and used counter sunk bolts and not modified a nice tool
When we made our vice in trade school, we used a shaper to machine the internal surfaces of the fixed Jaw. I still have my vices. Will you use your shaper too?
In the last video he did say he will probably use his shaper at his home shop for the internal work
I have trouble understanding how the edge finder works, it seems very subjective to me, once it stops wiggling and becomes perfectly strait, one would think is your edge, but I see almost everyone who uses one, go past the perfectly strait, and seem to make it spin smoothly but slightly offset? Unless there is marks on the top that become visible once it’s slightly offset? And no one has shown this assuming everyone knows??
Since you won't be able to tell by eye when both parts of the edge finder are perfectly concentric, you go past that point until it kicks out to the side, which is by probably around 1mm in metric (Yes, it kicks out by 1mm even if you only go past the edge of the part by 0,01).
This makes it easy to spot when you found the edge, it is without problem repeatable within 0,01mm in error as well, which is more than accurate enough for almost any purpose bar extremely high precision parts.
I wish you wouldn't spread the videos out so much. Show more in each video!
adam shouldn't all your refrences derive from the vice screw or possibly the nut? thanks for the vids... i wondered about the centring last video and thought it should be relative to the slide jaw but have thought that through and come up with the screw/nut ..still cant decide which is the key factor, or am i missing it totally lol.
When it comes to the anvil. Why don't you machine it from the back so you've still got those nice radiuses?
should the height of the vise be centered for the bolt on casting? guess i will just watch the complete video..
Would still love to know what’s going on with the 250R ???