A cool thing with the S-993A stand too is that when it's on, it activates the vacuum for an instant when placed into the stand which clears out any solder left in the tip. I've been looking for videos on people that modded theirs but have had no luck. I think it might have good potential for modding. I've got a ton of vacuum pumps that I've acquired over the years - from small DC ones that could fit in the S-993A easily that cost like less than $5, up to a Gast powered by a 1hp Baldor motor from a medical device that cost like $1K. So I've got an assortment of vacuum pumps that I can try out with it. Might need to give it a shot...
Very nice review. I have had the Chinese strange looking S-998P with double suction pistons for ~5 years now, and it works like a charm. I see some cracks in the plastic chamber. But I have only used it a couple of times every year.
Have you ever had the tiny tube come out of the heating element on the kakko unit? I just found a returned desoldering gun at my local store for 5$ shockingly and it heats up super fast and I hear the vacuum pump running no problem. But the tip now has the thin tube stuck in it. And the outter tube won’t fit back on. Not sure if I wanna try to drill the heating element slightly to try and tap the tube back into the element. Or just file it down slightly in hopes the seal is on still. Or just buy a new heating element for it.
@@jeffescortlx yeah I’m hoping I can tweak fix it as is. I only paid 5$ for it which is a steal obviously lol even with the broken end. I’m hoping it can be fixed free wise. Gotta try some things. See if solder is holding the tip and the tube end together and see if it will release the tip and if not maybe I’ll try to drill the heating element so the tube slides into it. But I guess if I have to replace the heating element and the tip that’s not so bad for a 300$ish unit. Lol I’ve always wanted one seeing your videos from the cluster rebuilds! Just could never justify the expense for something I’d super rarely ever use lol
I bought the S-993A and am now replacing the heating element (a common problem) after maybe two years of light use. I have extra nozzles (different sizes). Replacement boards, filters, and diaphragms are also available now. Schematics are on-line. I'll probably end up getting the Hakko though I think it is overpriced. I try to get what I want the first time because experience has taught me that cheaping out is usually a waste of money.
They fit into different categories. I'd reccomended to spend the price if it's something that your going to use more than once. The hakko is designed for commercial use, while the S-993A is designed to make it past the 90 day PayPal dispute period.
Are the tips interchangeable? I have a S-993A and I need a new tip for, and I'd rather get a Hakko tip for it instead of having to wait two weeks for the Chinese replacements to come in.
How does the Hakko hold up during heavy use? Do you have to empty the canister, clear blockages or replace filters often? In a year of use have you ever had any problems with debris getting past the filter into the diaphragm area? Sorry for all the questions, yours is the only review I've found from someone that actually seems to have considerable experience with the tool.
The only time it requires consistent cleaning with the poker tool is if it's being use on boards that are conformal coated. When being used on boards that are not coated, I only have to use the wire poker tool maybe once ever month. And empty the canister couple times a week. This is with about 1 hour of use every day. What I do to help keep it clean and clear of blockages is just before I turn it off I point the tip up and hit the button. Gravity helps pull every thing down the tip and pipe and into the canister. I've changed out the filter a couple times since it was new. IIRC it came with a few extras. You can peel the dirty layers off the filter.
Whatcha got there?? The GM X27 stepper motor repair process..? What else do you know about the GM clusters? Thanks for showing the comparisons. Chances are I'll shoot for the cheap one first, then upgrade to the Hakko at a later time. I would be using my desoldering gun for the same GM repairs, plus a lot more.. Subbed!
I've been specializing in GM cluster repair since 2012. I tend to repair the one's that other tech's refuse to fix or say are unrepairable or the user tried to fix them self's and screwed it up.
You get what you pay for. I bought the $100 Chinese S-993A first, it lasted about 2 weeks of regular use before the heating element burned out. It also takes a while to heat up. The Hakko was only $234 on eBay. Came when a hard plastic carry case, heats up quickly. Works flawlessly. love it. It didn't come with a fancy stand though so I'm using the s-993 stand for my hakko. Good combo.
The official hakko stand for the FR300 sucks. So keep using the Chinese knock off one. The Chinese may have made a crappy heating element, but they nailed it on the stand!
@@JuggaloCujo unless things have changed, the official hakko stand was originally designed for soldering irons, not the FR300, so it doesn't really seat well in the base. But besides that, the FR300 is a trooper!
I have an s993a that is working well so far but not used much. After watching the video I thought if the stand works with my inevitable hakko in the future at least it wasn't a total waste, glad to hear it fits well
I have a question for you. I bought one of these guys and clean it regularly. I noticed that it stopped being very efficient and the vacuum was not working as well. Then I noticed that it was blowing more then it was sucking? Is it suppose to blow hot air? Any thoughts?
I've been using a S-993 in the UK for a few weeks. I'm really impressed with it, for such a cheap tool it really gets the job done. Maybe the higher mains voltage helps, it heats up quickly and the pump sounds a lot meatier than the one in this video. I do agree that the mains flex is too thin, I will likely replace that shortly. Also a mains switch would be a real help. But for the price, it's a bargain.
It does get the job done. But I find my self reaching for the hakko. Combination of small things, like it's already plugged in while the S-993a doesn't have a power switch. And the Hakko has more thermo power and sucking power.
Hi. you said you used the Hakko almost everyday. Just asking, in what electronics business are you in?, repair?, design? Is it full time or parttime? I'm still deciding on repair or design
Winston Smith I haven't tried to track any down yet myself. But if you can't find anything on ebay you might be out of luck without ordering directory from a china vendor.
Anyway, replacement filters could probably be made from those used by other similar desoldering tools using a pair of scissors if too large and the clear plastic cylinder which cracks even on the much more expensive Hakko could be be plugged with glue if it gets bad enough to leak. I just can never figure out why the Chinese so often seem to ignore providing spares with such items. I mean, how hard is that to do?
on mine i put kapton sheet roiled in to the canister to prevent any more cracking . o and i told the seller and thay sent me a new canister for free tor replace the cracking one i did send a photo to them for proof
Was that a vehicle instrument cluster you desoldered? It looks like you removed a stepper motor for a dial. Disclaimer: I may or may not work in the auto industry designing instrument cluster PCB's.
Andrew Towler Yes good catch. I specialize in cluster repair. If you check out my videos you'll get an idea with how I use the tool. What manufacturer do you may or may not design for out of curiosity?
Andrew Towler With some of the latest GM clusters (not full size) I'm noticing stepper motors that are spring contact instead of soldered, or cheaper LCD diplays instead of VFD and I think I've even seen single sided boards. Pinching evey penny.
With all my newer videos made within the last year or so I use a mic. This video is about 3 years old. I've also tried to improve editing and have added microscope camera.
Well yes, but I've already replaced the heating element to keep it going. It only has a handful of hours on it. Meanwhile the hakko fr300 has thousands of hours on it and it's still chugging away just fine.
@@jeffescortlx Good to know.. I was going to ask the same thing.. just stumbled upon your video. I've bought TWO different chinese clones and both of them have been basically useless. I didn't want to spend the real money on the good tool, and now I'm going to end up spending it anyway, and a total of twice as much, for being cheap in the first place.
Also something that people don’t get is that Hakko provides lots of tips and parts - the tips are incredibly useful for different size components like slider pins/ potentiometer, plus extended nozzle so you can get to hard to reach pins/solder. 100$ is what you spend on 2-3 meals at Olive Garden nowadays so if you use it every day it’s so much better, paying 100$ more than the cheaper model extra for reliability will be worth it in the long run.
@@jeffescortlx got it cheap. Someone dropped it and the flange broke got it total for like $88 that includes the tool and the replacement part. The casing itself feels like its falling a bit apart I can just buy a new blue gun case halve but kinda reluctant to say no for that lol. It's still in tact so it's all good
Well, I have been using the S-993 for about a year now, its without any problem. The S-993 is designed to use with 220V power, and Hakko is a Japanese model so its designed to use 100V, mine heats up way faster then the on in the video. I also see comments saying it works find in European countries, maybe they did not make a good transformation from 220V to 110V. As for the pump, mine sounds a lot more like Hakko, a little weaker, but you can't really feel anything. Also I don't know why yours have the thin cords, mine have the same size cord with Hakko, maybe its a 110V and 220V thing?
My S-993 is the 110v option used on 110v. I did recently break my hakko FR-300, while waiting for replacement parts to arrive I used the S-993, the heater element burned out after a hour work session. So now I'm waiting for a replacement element from China.
@@jeffescortlx Yes, they do have 110V models, but all review says that model is flawed, even on Taobao (Chinese Amazon). I believe what they are saying that even they changed the transformer in it to use 110V, its not powerful enough for devices designed to use 220V. This is a rough translation, and they say its better to get a 220V with an external transformer if you want to use 110V, it will performer much better this way. But with all these said, Hakko is definitely a better brand and better model, so fixing that is probably the best option.
@@gglsniper maybe they ment motor or heating element. The 993 doesn't have a internal transformer. I didn't really seam to have a problem with getting enough heat out of the tip, but maybe they are using the same motor pump from the 220 v on the 110 model.
@@jeffescortlx Yes, the comments I read says it will heat up fine, but take longer to heat up. And maybe they are saying the pump is not as powerful because of 110 instead of 220, the comments did't really say what this will cause, just it is causing some problems.
I've just been watching a bunch of videos about the Chinese solder sucker, and I think the problem you are having with it is that although it works, but it's sucking capabilities are not on par with the Hakko...judging from the sound yours is making, and comparing it to other videos, I would guess the unit is really designed for 220+v, not 110v! Take a listen to this video, from Australia... ruclips.net/video/H97BP_g6Tnw/видео.html
Spot on... this unit definitely requires the full beans 240V AC and not the half strength 110V AC America has. The pump motor is litterally spinning at half speed... I'm about to review this tool on my channel.
mine says 110 volts at 50 hz. Note: 50 hz motor should run at a little higher speed on 60 hz and we do have 120 volts at 60 hz also. Anyone know where I can get an English manual
Very true. I must say though, my old 808 was a workhorse. I used it for many years and not once did it break down on me. How would you compare the newer FR-300 to the old discontinued 808? Is it just as good?
My FR300 gets used for about an hour every single day since new. My only problem is the cracking waste canisters. They still hold vacuum fine when cracked, but break when removed/installed if not handled gently. Hakko has been good about sending replacements even though I'm sure its out of warranty by now. I've been using a larger tip than what it shipped with to stop clogging. Still has original heating element and pump. I like it. Wouldn't want to work without it.
Well that sucks. My 808 still has the original canister without a single crack. And I also used it nearly daily for years. One thing I didn't like about the 808 was when I had to change a tip, it was a pain. One of the reasons I went to the FM-2024. Hot swappable cartridge style tips similar to the t-15's used in the 2027. Changing a tip on the fly is super easy, even easier than the FR300, not to mention much lighter and more compact.
Great comparison video. Here's my experience with the Chinese S-993A. Right out of the box... I plugged it in and set the temperature dial to the lowest setting. The S-993A heated up out of control to 600°C/1100°F (check out this pic, goo.gl/HNHHFg); there was no temperature control at all -- turning the dial had no effect. It then started to smoke badly and the metal nozzle and shaft started to melt away from the mount where it connects to the body of the gun. I unplugged the S-993A immediately and let it cool down. Once it cold down I plugged it in again, but now it will not heat up at all -- IT IS DEAD -- go figure.
That glowing red is impressive! I bet it's hotter than 600c. Must of been a combination of manufacturing defect and poor quality control. I suppose it has a solder blob some where on the controller board that is forcing the heating element on or a shorted triac. Hope you were able to get a refund or send it back?
That picture was taken at about the 4-minute mark, then I pulled the plug, literally. Agreed, poor quality control -- I guess the "OK" QC sticker on the handle is just for show. This all happened yesterday and I am communicating with the seller -- however, slowly, as they are in China -- they seem willing to help, so hopefully I can get a replacement sooner than later.
That's strange. I thought it might be, that the hot fumes from the melted flux did it. When i ordered the spare part, the distributor was really wondering why do i need it. After the explanation, they said, that they never had it before. Since then i had no problems with the cracking, but i am careful not to suck any flux. Maybe it would be worth to report it to hakkousa, maybe they know more or why it happens. Besides this and the terrible stand, it's the most valued investment that i did into soldering. It helps so much.
I don't think it's from flux fumes, I think it's just from thermal shock. I've talked to Hakko about it a few times and they pretend it's the first time they have heard of it, but I know it's a common issue.
I picked up the S-993A yesterday and wished I hadn't ordered this thing. It worked great the first day I used it. But on the second day, it was clogged so badly there is no way I can use it again. It's a dead brick now. Even trying in vain to jam that ram-rod pin into it is to no avail. It's just like the tip and nozzle has been filled with concrete! Complete and total garbage.
I have one Hakko 808 and one S-993a and both clogged, I need to use the cleaning pin many times each desoldering session. I think this a commun problem for all this type of tools. The weller system is better because the pipe between the nozzle and solder container is very short. Cheers.
Patrick Briggs since I've changed the tip size on my hakko one size larger it's stopped clogging all together. Now looking at the S-993A it does have a small opening. Is the tip larger on the Aoyua?
Last week I bought the chinese S-998p, still waiting. The new gun nozzle comes with the pipe, every time you change the nozzle change the small pipe inside the heater. Plus the price of the spare parts, nozzles, heaters and filters. A friend bough the hakko FR300 and has't stop clogging, any way this the price for try to do more easy and betters jobs. Sorry for my english. Cheers.
I bough this exact model from China. It stop up so I took the wire that come with it to clean it. Got nowhere. Removed soldier tip took small drill bit come right out. Here is the Big thing that took me forever to figure. The tip was clogged up also. Come to find out the wire that they send you (there or 2 of them) .they are to big to go threw the tip. I manged to clean the tip out. Why in hell did they send me 2 cleaning rods that are bigger than the tip. She is oiled and back to new again after about 4 hrs. of trying to get the over sized wire threw the tip. So maybe this well help someone out. You can't use the wire to clean the tip. At least the tip they sent me.Even a standerd sewing needle is to big.
jeffescortlx I guess I got an odd ball tip. Maybe when I order some new tips it will work then. As of know I take a very small needle and sit it in the end of the tip then heat the needle and tip up with a propane torch and work it back and forth. If I remember to use the needle while it's still hot then I don't have these problems. This tip something else. Hold it up and look threw the big end at a light bulb you can barely see threw it. At first I thought it was still partially stopped up. If you get a bright light and examine it closer you can tell its made that way. Maybe they where thinking the smaller the hole in the inside of the tip the more suction you would have. Good to know there not all like that. 73s
The hakko would be the better investment as it just does it better. The only downsize to then are they're way too bulky and huge. As for that chinese version. It just seem like a cheap product that just didn't quite get the job done goo enough.
@@redenvillena6311 I don't think it's 4x the quality but it is better and there are generally diminishing returns like it may cost 10 times as much to make something twice as good or like double to make something 10% or 20% better
S-993A Chinese very bad. The heater will burn after few use only. I test more than 3 sets. Very bad. Butter to spend more money and go for hakko or any good brand
i just bought a Hakko after having the Chinese one should have spent the hakko money earlier but by the time i got the Hakko now it was 200 rather than 300 and i spent like 60 on the Chinese one i still have and also am going to steal the sa 993a stand for my Hakko the one in the case for the Hakko is a lame excuse of a stand
We have the hakko FR 300 at work, never used such a piece of rubbish in my life...tips last about 2 weeks, units continuing to block up all the time, absolute rubbish..
don't buy the S-993A , the tips are fragile it breaks or cracks quickly and the heating elements goes bad fast and once you replace the heating element it wont work as it should that's my honest experience
I have one Hakko 808, one S-993-A and one S-998-p. Hakko 808 is an excellent tool. S-998-p is and excellente tool, spare parts are cheap inclusive. S-993-A is a piece of shit. Cheers.
@@jeffescortlx Hi, Hakko is the best choice always, but the S-998-p is an excelent option if you are in budget. S-993-a is a piece of shit. I am in electronics more than 40 years, I bought tons of tools, like scopes and multimeters. Any question feel free yo contact to me. Cheers.
It would be real useful to see some of the employees that made each. That would say a lot about the potential quality. I bet the Chinese were poor folk. Not getting much pay out of this.
Your calibrated eyesight would be worth a fortune to the test and measuring industry... Next time try using a digital tip thermometer to insure both guns are at the same temp. and how about a Digital Vacuum Gauge. I suggest stop show to the world your IQ.
skip to 6:14 to see desoldering
A cool thing with the S-993A stand too is that when it's on, it activates the vacuum for an instant when placed into the stand which clears out any solder left in the tip. I've been looking for videos on people that modded theirs but have had no luck. I think it might have good potential for modding. I've got a ton of vacuum pumps that I've acquired over the years - from small DC ones that could fit in the S-993A easily that cost like less than $5, up to a Gast powered by a 1hp Baldor motor from a medical device that cost like $1K. So I've got an assortment of vacuum pumps that I can try out with it. Might need to give it a shot...
I do not recommend the S-993A, the heating element broke after a few days of normal use.
Very nice review. I have had the Chinese strange looking S-998P with double suction pistons for ~5 years now, and it works like a charm. I see some cracks in the plastic chamber. But I have only used it a couple of times every year.
I have hakko 808 until now still have a great quality and I have brand new FR300 both of them very excellent for desoldering
I would love an update on this, 6 years later.
The hakko is still going strong with daily use, the S-993A is hardly functional.
What's the brand name of that one handed blue solder sucker hand pump?
Have you ever had the tiny tube come out of the heating element on the kakko unit? I just found a returned desoldering gun at my local store for 5$ shockingly and it heats up super fast and I hear the vacuum pump running no problem. But the tip now has the thin tube stuck in it. And the outter tube won’t fit back on. Not sure if I wanna try to drill the heating element slightly to try and tap the tube back into the element. Or just file it down slightly in hopes the seal is on still. Or just buy a new heating element for it.
Hakko is good about providing replacement parts. Should be available directly from their website.
@@jeffescortlx yeah I’m hoping I can tweak fix it as is. I only paid 5$ for it which is a steal obviously lol even with the broken end. I’m hoping it can be fixed free wise. Gotta try some things. See if solder is holding the tip and the tube end together and see if it will release the tip and if not maybe I’ll try to drill the heating element so the tube slides into it.
But I guess if I have to replace the heating element and the tip that’s not so bad for a 300$ish unit. Lol I’ve always wanted one seeing your videos from the cluster rebuilds! Just could never justify the expense for something I’d super rarely ever use lol
@@addiction2bass either way it's a great tool and worth the cost of replacing the element tube if it comes down to that.
Does the Hakko fit in the stand of the Chinese knock off ???
I bought the S-993A and am now replacing the heating element (a common problem) after maybe two years of light use. I have extra nozzles (different sizes). Replacement boards, filters, and diaphragms are also available now. Schematics are on-line. I'll probably end up getting the Hakko though I think it is overpriced. I try to get what I want the first time because experience has taught me that cheaping out is usually a waste of money.
They fit into different categories. I'd reccomended to spend the price if it's something that your going to use more than once. The hakko is designed for commercial use, while the S-993A is designed to make it past the 90 day PayPal dispute period.
A search on eBay shows no replacement tubes for the 993
Are the tips interchangeable? I have a S-993A and I need a new tip for, and I'd rather get a Hakko tip for it instead of having to wait two weeks for the Chinese replacements to come in.
No, the two are not compatible with each other. I would think someone on eBay or Amazon would have US stock of 993A tips?
@@jeffescortlx Found out that Aliexpress has US stock of them. Ended up buying one from them.
will the tips and canaster interchange with the hakko ?
I'm wondering the same thing
what solder wire do u use and recommend? brand and thickness
How does the Hakko hold up during heavy use? Do you have to empty the canister, clear blockages or replace filters often? In a year of use have you ever had any problems with debris getting past the filter into the diaphragm area? Sorry for all the questions, yours is the only review I've found from someone that actually seems to have considerable experience with the tool.
The only time it requires consistent cleaning with the poker tool is if it's being use on boards that are conformal coated. When being used on boards that are not coated, I only have to use the wire poker tool maybe once ever month. And empty the canister couple times a week. This is with about 1 hour of use every day.
What I do to help keep it clean and clear of blockages is just before I turn it off I point the tip up and hit the button. Gravity helps pull every thing down the tip and pipe and into the canister.
I've changed out the filter a couple times since it was new. IIRC it came with a few extras. You can peel the dirty layers off the filter.
The Chinese one sounds clogged... From other videos it should sound a lot louder / stronger...
It wasn't clogged.
Does the Hakko fit in the S-993A stand? Not sure why Hakko doesn't just make one that is designed for their own product...
I don't think it fits, but it's been a few years since I've had both and don't remember why. Yes they need a real stand that fits right!
Just tried the FR-300 in the S-993 stand, and yes it does fit good. The S-993 stand works better for the FR-300 stand then the original Hakko stand.
Whatcha got there?? The GM X27 stepper motor repair process..? What else do you know about the GM clusters?
Thanks for showing the comparisons. Chances are I'll shoot for the cheap one first, then upgrade to the Hakko at a later time. I would be using my desoldering gun for the same GM repairs, plus a lot more..
Subbed!
I've been specializing in GM cluster repair since 2012. I tend to repair the one's that other tech's refuse to fix or say are unrepairable or the user tried to fix them self's and screwed it up.
You get what you pay for. I bought the $100 Chinese S-993A first, it lasted about 2 weeks of regular use before the heating element burned out. It also takes a while to heat up.
The Hakko was only $234 on eBay. Came when a hard plastic carry case, heats up quickly. Works flawlessly. love it. It didn't come with a fancy stand though so I'm using the s-993 stand for my hakko. Good combo.
The official hakko stand for the FR300 sucks. So keep using the Chinese knock off one. The Chinese may have made a crappy heating element, but they nailed it on the stand!
@@jeffescortlx Hell yes they did! Thanks for the advice. I was actually going to but a Hakko stand for it.
@@JuggaloCujo unless things have changed, the official hakko stand was originally designed for soldering irons, not the FR300, so it doesn't really seat well in the base. But besides that, the FR300 is a trooper!
@@jeffescortlx hell yes
I have an s993a that is working well so far but not used much. After watching the video I thought if the stand works with my inevitable hakko in the future at least it wasn't a total waste, glad to hear it fits well
I have a question for you. I bought one of these guys and clean it regularly. I noticed that it stopped being very efficient and the vacuum was not working as well. Then I noticed that it was blowing more then it was sucking? Is it suppose to blow hot air? Any thoughts?
I would check out the one way valve and see if working properly.
Thank you, I am not too familiar with the guts, what would the one way valve look like on the S-993A?
It's probably a reed style valve on the pump.
I've been using a S-993 in the UK for a few weeks. I'm really impressed with it, for such a cheap tool it really gets the job done. Maybe the higher mains voltage helps, it heats up quickly and the pump sounds a lot meatier than the one in this video. I do agree that the mains flex is too thin, I will likely replace that shortly. Also a mains switch would be a real help. But for the price, it's a bargain.
It does get the job done. But I find my self reaching for the hakko. Combination of small things, like it's already plugged in while the S-993a doesn't have a power switch. And the Hakko has more thermo power and sucking power.
Hi. you said you used the Hakko almost everyday. Just asking, in what electronics business are you in?, repair?, design? Is it full time or parttime? I'm still deciding on repair or design
Instrument cluster repair. Still use it daily 5 years later.
Where are the spare parts (clear reservoir, tips of different hole diameters) and consumables (like filters) for the S-993A?
Winston Smith
I haven't tried to track any down yet myself. But if you can't find anything on ebay you might be out of luck without ordering directory from a china vendor.
Don't see anything on eBay or at Banggood.
Winston Smith
unfortunately that's the risk we take by purchasing inexpensive tools from a china based manufacturer.
Anyway, replacement filters could probably be made from those used by other similar desoldering tools using a pair of scissors if too large and the clear plastic cylinder which cracks even on the much more expensive Hakko could be be plugged with glue if it gets bad enough to leak. I just can never figure out why the Chinese so often seem to ignore providing spares with such items. I mean, how hard is that to do?
They don't provide spares because they don't expect the tools to last long enough to make spares useful.
how well does it do with silver solder?
Well I can say it works fine with typical 60/40 and lead free.
on mine i put kapton sheet roiled in to the canister to prevent any more cracking .
o and i told the seller and thay sent me a new canister for free tor replace the cracking one i did send a photo to them for proof
A good comparrison. I just bought the cheaper Chinese one off of Ebay and Iwill put it tothe test right away
What did you think of it?
@@Jin-Ro it's the same one Adrian Black has. It doesn't have as much suction as an external pump does, but it works well
Was that a vehicle instrument cluster you desoldered? It looks like you removed a stepper motor for a dial. Disclaimer: I may or may not work in the auto industry designing instrument cluster PCB's.
Andrew Towler
Yes good catch. I specialize in cluster repair. If you check out my videos you'll get an idea with how I use the tool.
What manufacturer do you may or may not design for out of curiosity?
DENSO International America in Southfield, MI.
Andrew Towler
I find it interesting how cluster design has changed from the late 90's to current.
Agreed. Light bulb backlights, to VFD displays, to TFT displays, to the near future of full-screen LCD clusters.
Andrew Towler
With some of the latest GM clusters (not full size) I'm noticing stepper motors that are spring contact instead of soldered, or cheaper LCD diplays instead of VFD and I think I've even seen single sided boards. Pinching evey penny.
As observed, the Chinese white one i used for my own,is good very fast,
I stumbled onto your channel today, very interesting, I'm sub'd!
where can you order the mileage display circuit?
I'm not sure what your asking. This video is for a desoldering tool.
I suggest either a lapel mic or a boom mic. Thumbs up on the review.
With all my newer videos made within the last year or so I use a mic. This video is about 3 years old. I've also tried to improve editing and have added microscope camera.
@@jeffescortlx Great news - be watching more.
Is that S-993A still working 3 years later?
Well yes, but I've already replaced the heating element to keep it going. It only has a handful of hours on it. Meanwhile the hakko fr300 has thousands of hours on it and it's still chugging away just fine.
@@jeffescortlx Good to know.. I was going to ask the same thing.. just stumbled upon your video. I've bought TWO different chinese clones and both of them have been basically useless. I didn't want to spend the real money on the good tool, and now I'm going to end up spending it anyway, and a total of twice as much, for being cheap in the first place.
Also something that people don’t get is that Hakko provides lots of tips and parts - the tips are incredibly useful for different size components like slider pins/ potentiometer, plus extended nozzle so you can get to hard to reach pins/solder.
100$ is what you spend on 2-3 meals at Olive Garden nowadays so if you use it every day it’s so much better, paying 100$ more than the cheaper model extra for reliability will be worth it in the long run.
True. Hakko offers great support. The knock off has pretty much non, you just have to hope a over seas vendor lists parts up on eBay.
I'm using a Hakko FR-300 and i needed a replacement black flange plastic piece lol. Thinking about looking into the S-998P
Check with hakko, they typically have a good stock of parts. The 998 one won't fit, and the FR300 is noticeably a better tool.
@@jeffescortlx got it cheap. Someone dropped it and the flange broke got it total for like $88 that includes the tool and the replacement part. The casing itself feels like its falling a bit apart I can just buy a new blue gun case halve but kinda reluctant to say no for that lol. It's still in tact so it's all good
@@jeffescortlx Curious also did they give you a free canister or you paid?
@@Limeayy I had to pay. But the plastic canisters are reasonably priced on the hakko web site.
I did not know Hakko made one that reasonably priced. Sorry I bought a no-name Chinese one. Thanks
nice review, thanks for sharing
Well, I have been using the S-993 for about a year now, its without any problem. The S-993 is designed to use with 220V power, and Hakko is a Japanese model so its designed to use 100V, mine heats up way faster then the on in the video. I also see comments saying it works find in European countries, maybe they did not make a good transformation from 220V to 110V. As for the pump, mine sounds a lot more like Hakko, a little weaker, but you can't really feel anything. Also I don't know why yours have the thin cords, mine have the same size cord with Hakko, maybe its a 110V and 220V thing?
My S-993 is the 110v option used on 110v. I did recently break my hakko FR-300, while waiting for replacement parts to arrive I used the S-993, the heater element burned out after a hour work session. So now I'm waiting for a replacement element from China.
@@jeffescortlx Yes, they do have 110V models, but all review says that model is flawed, even on Taobao (Chinese Amazon). I believe what they are saying that even they changed the transformer in it to use 110V, its not powerful enough for devices designed to use 220V. This is a rough translation, and they say its better to get a 220V with an external transformer if you want to use 110V, it will performer much better this way. But with all these said, Hakko is definitely a better brand and better model, so fixing that is probably the best option.
@@gglsniper maybe they ment motor or heating element. The 993 doesn't have a internal transformer. I didn't really seam to have a problem with getting enough heat out of the tip, but maybe they are using the same motor pump from the 220 v on the 110 model.
@@jeffescortlx Yes, the comments I read says it will heat up fine, but take longer to heat up. And maybe they are saying the pump is not as powerful because of 110 instead of 220, the comments did't really say what this will cause, just it is causing some problems.
I've just been watching a bunch of videos about the Chinese solder sucker, and I think the problem you are having with it is that although it works, but it's sucking capabilities are not on par with the Hakko...judging from the sound yours is making, and comparing it to other videos, I would guess the unit is really designed for 220+v, not 110v! Take a listen to this video, from Australia...
ruclips.net/video/H97BP_g6Tnw/видео.html
i think you right..the 993 motor's sound from your link video is higher than in this video...220 v suit for 993 to get more power for vacuum
Spot on... this unit definitely requires the full beans 240V AC and not the half strength 110V AC America has. The pump motor is litterally spinning at half speed... I'm about to review this tool on my channel.
mine says 110 volts at 50 hz. Note: 50 hz motor should run at a little higher speed on 60 hz and we do have 120 volts at 60 hz also. Anyone know where I can get an English manual
You can get everything running on both voltages... The only problem I see is if you try the 220v one into a 110V outlet.
Global Garage big fan of your stuff. Thanks for the great Famicom av mod tutorial
I used to own an 808. I've since moved to an FM-2024. Its far superior to anything mentioned here.
With its higher price and air compressor requirements it might be out of reach for the hobbyist.
Very true. I must say though, my old 808 was a workhorse. I used it for many years and not once did it break down on me. How would you compare the newer FR-300 to the old discontinued 808? Is it just as good?
My FR300 gets used for about an hour every single day since new. My only problem is the cracking waste canisters. They still hold vacuum fine when cracked, but break when removed/installed if not handled gently. Hakko has been good about sending replacements even though I'm sure its out of warranty by now.
I've been using a larger tip than what it shipped with to stop clogging. Still has original heating element and pump. I like it. Wouldn't want to work without it.
Well that sucks. My 808 still has the original canister without a single crack. And I also used it nearly daily for years. One thing I didn't like about the 808 was when I had to change a tip, it was a pain. One of the reasons I went to the FM-2024. Hot swappable cartridge style tips similar to the t-15's used in the 2027. Changing a tip on the fly is super easy, even easier than the FR300, not to mention much lighter and more compact.
@@mike7958 I prefer the the flexor 9000 it sucks that you have to try and one up people...
Great comparison video. Here's my experience with the Chinese S-993A. Right out of the box...
I plugged it in and set the temperature dial to the lowest setting. The S-993A heated up out of control to 600°C/1100°F (check out this pic, goo.gl/HNHHFg); there was no temperature control at all -- turning the dial had no effect. It then started to smoke badly and the metal nozzle and shaft started to melt away from the mount where it connects to the body of the gun. I unplugged the S-993A immediately and let it cool down. Once it cold down I plugged it in again, but now it will not heat up at all -- IT IS DEAD -- go figure.
That glowing red is impressive! I bet it's hotter than 600c. Must of been a combination of manufacturing defect and poor quality control. I suppose it has a solder blob some where on the controller board that is forcing the heating element on or a shorted triac. Hope you were able to get a refund or send it back?
That picture was taken at about the 4-minute mark, then I pulled the plug, literally. Agreed, poor quality control -- I guess the "OK" QC sticker on the handle is just for show. This all happened yesterday and I am communicating with the seller -- however, slowly, as they are in China -- they seem willing to help, so hopefully I can get a replacement sooner than later.
My solder waste container cracked after i sucked some flux with my Hakko.
Mine cracks pretty much right away. I've just learned to live with it. It's not causing any vaccum leaks so I just roll with it.
That's strange. I thought it might be, that the hot fumes from the melted flux did it. When i ordered the spare part, the distributor was really wondering why do i need it. After the explanation, they said, that they never had it before. Since then i had no problems with the cracking, but i am careful not to suck any flux. Maybe it would be worth to report it to hakkousa, maybe they know more or why it happens. Besides this and the terrible stand, it's the most valued investment that i did into soldering. It helps so much.
I don't think it's from flux fumes, I think it's just from thermal shock. I've talked to Hakko about it a few times and they pretend it's the first time they have heard of it, but I know it's a common issue.
Are There No American Made Desolering Guns/Tools ?!
Hakko is made in Japan, but JBC is made in USA. The complete JBC rework station is $7196 on Amazon.
I picked up the S-993A yesterday and wished I hadn't ordered this thing. It worked great the first day I used it. But on the second day, it was clogged so badly there is no way I can use it again. It's a dead brick now. Even trying in vain to jam that ram-rod pin into it is to no avail. It's just like the tip and nozzle has been filled with concrete! Complete and total garbage.
Patrick Briggs
Any solder sucker is going clog. especially if your working on conformal coated board.
just heat it on high and work the poker in.
I have one Hakko 808 and one S-993a and both clogged, I need to use the cleaning pin many times each desoldering session.
I think this a commun problem for all this type of tools.
The weller system is better because the pipe between the nozzle and solder container is very short.
Cheers.
I ended up purchasing a Aoyue Int474a++ and it hasn't clogged once so far. Significantly better design.
Patrick Briggs
since I've changed the tip size on my hakko one size larger it's stopped clogging all together. Now looking at the S-993A it does have a small opening. Is the tip larger on the Aoyua?
Last week I bought the chinese S-998p, still waiting.
The new gun nozzle comes with the pipe, every time you change the nozzle change the small pipe inside the heater.
Plus the price of the spare parts, nozzles, heaters and filters.
A friend bough the hakko FR300 and has't stop clogging, any way this the price for try to do more easy and betters jobs.
Sorry for my english.
Cheers.
I bough this exact model from China. It stop up so I took the wire that come with it to clean it. Got nowhere. Removed soldier tip took small drill bit come right out. Here is the Big thing that took me forever to figure. The tip was clogged up also. Come to find out the wire that they send you (there or 2 of them) .they are to big to go threw the tip. I manged to clean the tip out. Why in hell did they send me 2 cleaning rods that are bigger than the tip. She is oiled and back to new again after about 4 hrs. of trying to get the over sized wire threw the tip. So maybe this well help someone out. You can't use the wire to clean the tip. At least the tip they sent me.Even a standerd sewing needle is to big.
It's easyest to clean with the temp jacked up on high. My cleaning poker fits just fine for mine.
jeffescortlx Is yours the S-993A
Yes
jeffescortlx I guess I got an odd ball tip. Maybe when I order some new tips it will work then. As of know I take a very small needle and sit it in the end of the tip then heat the needle and tip up with a propane torch and work it back and forth. If I remember to use the needle while it's still hot then I don't have these problems. This tip something else. Hold it up and look threw the big end at a light bulb you can barely see threw it. At first I thought it was still partially stopped up. If you get a bright light and examine it closer you can tell its made that way. Maybe they where thinking the smaller the hole in the inside of the tip the more suction you would have. Good to know there not all like that. 73s
The hakko would be the better investment as it just does it better. The only downsize to then are they're way too bulky and huge. As for that chinese version. It just seem like a cheap product that just didn't quite get the job done goo enough.
Hakko is 4x more expensive !
Because hakko is more than 4x quality than chinese desoldering gun
@@redenvillena6311 I don't think it's 4x the quality but it is better and there are generally diminishing returns like it may cost 10 times as much to make something twice as good or like double to make something 10% or 20% better
S-993A Chinese very bad. The heater will burn after few use only. I test more than 3 sets. Very bad. Butter to spend more money and go for hakko or any good brand
i just bought a Hakko after having the Chinese one should have spent the hakko money earlier but by the time i got the Hakko now it was 200 rather than 300 and i spent like 60 on the Chinese one i still have and also am going to steal the sa 993a stand for my Hakko the one in the case for the Hakko is a lame excuse of a stand
The hakko does fit better in the S-993A stand then it does in its own hakko stand.
@@jeffescortlx you already know i already had the s993a stand screwed to my desk so now il just put the hakko there
We have the hakko FR 300 at work, never used such a piece of rubbish in my life...tips last about 2 weeks, units continuing to block up all the time, absolute rubbish..
The OEM tip they come with is too small. Use the next size up and clogging will happen 90% less often.
don't buy the S-993A , the tips are fragile it breaks or cracks quickly and the heating elements goes bad fast and once you replace the heating element it wont work as it should that's my honest experience
Yes I agree the hakko FR-300 is worth the extra cost. It's a better tool in every way.
I have one Hakko 808, one S-993-A and one S-998-p.
Hakko 808 is an excellent tool.
S-998-p is and excellente tool, spare parts are cheap inclusive.
S-993-A is a piece of shit.
Cheers.
I see the P must be the dual pump. And differences in the heating element or tip?
@@jeffescortlx S-998-P use diferent tips, but tips, heating element and rubber diafragm is inexpensive.
I recomend this tool for everyone.
@@treadmillrepair754 I'm intrigued, I might have to get my hands on one someday to check it out.
@@jeffescortlx Hi, Hakko is the best choice always, but the S-998-p is an excelent option if you are in budget.
S-993-a is a piece of shit.
I am in electronics more than 40 years, I bought tons of tools, like scopes and multimeters.
Any question feel free yo contact to me.
Cheers.
@@treadmillrepair754 I agree on you, I have both of hakko 808 and hakko FR300.. hakko soldering tools is the best! Chinese product is bull___t!
It would be real useful to see some of the employees that made each. That would say a lot about the potential quality. I bet the Chinese were poor folk. Not getting much pay out of this.
Hakko goes for over 800.00 on Ebay!!!!
The FR-300 series normally goes for a little under $300.
waste of time - "I can't speak for the Chinese machine - I've only had it a couple of weeks"
Useless comparison then, isn't it?
Instead of buying multiple desoldering guns , next time use your money to BUY A MICROPHONE!
@FireLion If you did not noticed I cant tell you
Your calibrated eyesight would be worth a fortune to the test and measuring industry... Next time try using a digital tip thermometer to insure both guns are at the same temp. and how about a Digital Vacuum Gauge.
I suggest stop show to the world your IQ.