Operation: This is a 220V, 30W unit. It is a very versatile & effective tool, & works extremely well. Has good suction power. I have reverse engineered the circuit. Here is how it works. a) When Unit is powered, the mains AC power is applied to the heater-element (230V, 0.137A, 30W, 1.67Kohm). b) When the PushButton switch ("PBS") is pressed, mains rectified DC (thru a bridge) is applied to the solenoid coil (162ohms, 1.4A, 325W). This is a huge (325W) heating power which will burn out the solenoid coil if left long. c) Fortunately, it is applied only for a fraction of second (~0.1 secs), even if the "PBS" is pressed & held. This is because, due to the huge magnetic power, the vaccum plunger is pulled in quickly with a thud-sound, and the spring-loaded-switch (SLS) at the top-end of the unit, is mechanically pushed open from bottom. d) Once this "SLS" opens, the High current (1.4A, 325W) thru the solenoid is removed, and instead a small holding current of 0.125A only is passed thru it. This is achieved by an ingenious circuit wherein the heater-coil (1.67Kohm) is now inserted in series with the solenoid coil. e) Due to this the solenoid-coil gets a lower holding current, which keeps and holds the plunger in position at top, against the spring power, without heating it up. f) When u release the "PBS", the above holding current is also removed, and the plunger returns back down due to spring power & spits out the sucked solder. g) Because of this ingenious (& yet simple) circuit, the PBS can be pressed & held longer without fear of burning out the solenoid coil. h) But due to any problem, if the top "SLS" switch does not open, then the 1.4A/325W current thru solenoid is not interrupted, and it heats up tremendously, and eventually burning out the solenoid, if you keep the PBS pressed & held. by Bhishmar, Tvm, India.
Can you please explain me how to connect wires on the board with rectifier diodes, that goes from the switch? My tool is broken (one of the diodes burnt), and when I disassemble it, I broke all four colored wires from that small PCB, and I don't know how to reconnect them... :-( I understand that I need to have permanent power for heater, but what confuses me is how to put in series the heater and the solenoid when I press the button. Thanks in advance!
The is a very good design, now I would order one and hack it out. Many thanks to your idea. To complete the hacking, i) connect the ground to the metal part of the solder iron.
Mine is not working well, but by reading your circuit description, the holding current is not enough because i am using 120V, and maybe that is why it doesn't heat well to melt the solder. So in order to make it work fine, maybe i just have to change the heating element to something with half the resistance?
The diameter of the wire for mains does not matter, it's the current draw that dictates the necessary wire thickness. In the case of this soldering iron the current draw is 1/8 of an amp (30w @ 240V) even jumper wire can take that amount of current.
If the elements burn out unlike a soldering iron, they cant be replaced. Mine has burnt out. You also have to be careful when cleaning the solder from out of main body. If you are not careful, twisting the cap at the heating element end can result on the heating element wires being twisted and broken.
If you plug it into a watt meter you'll know it has reached operating temperature when the reading stops dropping. I have all my bench tools run through a watt meter so I know when something might have been left on. When I set it up my soldering iron did not have an LED but it did have a switch so it wasn't easy to know if it was on or when it was ready to use. I just used what I had lying around at the time.
Take a dremel tool with a cutting wheel and slice a notch into 1 spot on the tip. It will give an air vent hole so it wont hammer the solenoid and make it easier to use.
Don't want to teach my gran how to suck eggs but you may find the solder move better by applying flux and for older joints reflow with some new solder before desoldering
I got this exact device, and unfortunately, the heating element broke after just a couple minutes of use. There was a popping noise, and then the iron eventually went cold. The sucking functionality still works though, which is a little strange. It's a shame because I was able to remove the solder on one pin fairly easily. I don't think I'll invest in another.
Well, they work a lot longer if you run them on an inverter.... on 220 V instead. Otherwise they overheat very, very fast indeed. You can actually see the glow during one of the last parts of the video.
Hi! I bought one myself and it worked..kinda! Had it powered on for a good thirty minutes. Since no stand really fits I had it hanging by a toolhook on a wall. While fiddling around with something I accidently lifted my eyes and the blue casing had melted becouse of heat and gravity! Really dangerous tool!! I ended up buying a desoldering pump with double action diaphrame instead.
That "earthing wire" may be fine for ESD purposes. It is likely a very slightly conductive polymer plastic - probably equivalent to some mega ohms for the whole length of it. Should dissipate static electricity quite well. Arguably, that could be better/safer than a hard ground - say, if the iron tip touches a live mains wire for instance.
To the best of my belief it is illegal to supply this product in the UK, not only because it has neither a protective earth connection nor apparently double or reinforced insulation between the mains and the accessible metal, but also because the US type of mains plug.
It works even better if you add some flux to the soldering points, and/or some new tin When the component are gone use a braid to clean the last up with if you going to use the board. But Yes.. a Branded pump cost 5-6 times as much or even more so for the moderate user it's a good choise.
Nice review, good that you used is as well. Not too much an improvement over a manual sucker I think. I think electrical equipment like that should be better insulated or earthed. I have been hooked up to a cheap soldering iron as a kid (mussle cramps in my hand kept me on it) and it was not fun. It could have ended a lot worse as well. I also take a part everything cheap that is connected to mains.
I had 2 of these blue Chinese desoldering pump... The 1st one broke after month , I desolder not more than 50 eproms 27c322. The 2nd broke after 1 hour !!!!!!! Never again ! Don't waste your money....I got now the Hakko FR300
i have the same like yours,but now the selonoid got problem sometimes stuck, the cooper contact point at rear was touching the supply wire when it moving and scrub the insulation.. i dig a new hole then wiring a new path and not touch the contact. i like this pump make my job done but the safety need to be fix by manufcturer..
For the price I'd buy one. I find the manual solder suckers very cumbersome and slow. It also takes me two hands to push down the plunger. Unfortunately this one from China is only available in 220 volts. So I'll be looking at probably a much more costly Hakko. Nice demo thou :)
If your unsure of cheap ebay stuff read there feedback or buy a well known make that you trust, most stuff from China is cheap but you get what you pay for
(3:12) - You say that you are *_"not an electrical electrician",_* and that's absolutely fine. But I would just like to say that if anyone is considering hiring an electrician, that the best type of electricians are the electrical ones. You can't beat electrical electricians for general level of their safety practices, and your own peace of mind. Remember folks, if you need any electrical work doing, an electrical electrician is way, way superior in all aspects than your common or garden, ordinary, bog-standard, electrician. I mean, I shudder to think of the possible implications, but an ordinary electrician is just not electrical and is a danger to us all. >
Wowee! Thanks so much for the great in depth review on this unit. I need one myself, but haven't gotten around to that yet and came looking for just this review and teardown. Thanks for the comments as well on safety concerns. If I get this unit now, I know to watch the cabling and such.
Good Job, thanks for the video. This seems to be one step up from the soldering irons that have the spring cocked solder sucker built in with more volume.
I have had a couple of these. They work reasonably well to start off with, but then the contacts at the back of the solenoid fail. They are a pretty dangerous design from an electrical perspective and would fail UK electrical regulations. I would not buy one.
I notice it had a u.s. plug on it which it wouldnt work in the u.s. because the desoldering pump is rated at 220 volts in there adds , you are right about bad electrical connection on the insides .thanks for shareing
Hi, I would like to ask you for a small favor if possible. When disassembling my desoldering iron, which is the same as yours, the four cables that go from the tip and the switch to the motherboard came loose and I don't know how they were soldered. Could you tell me or send me an image? and thank you very much for your videos keep it up (sorry for my English I'm from Spain)
i used a 30w lead extractor almost like that. 30w is not enough to melt the lead completely. very difficult to use. and if you are in a country with lower temperature then the wattage ratio must be increased.
i used a 30w lead extractor almost like that. 30w is not enough to melt the lead completely. very difficult to use. and if you are in a country with lower temperature then the wattage ratio has to be increased. i just threw one in the trash 2 days ago
Hello how the rear part can be dismantled, one of the two power cables seems to be welded, there is play and the pump does not heat up. I unscrewed the black cache and I don't know how to go further. Thank you in advance for your return
Hi, excellent Video, I use it too. But recently made small modification adding a ground conection wiring. My problem I took pictures to mounting circuit back and loose them so I don't know were to solder each green, red, blue & white wires. Would you mind to take a picture of other side of the circuit board? Appreciated
ALL soldering irons weither cheap or expensive will smoke for the first few runs. Sometimes its enough to think its on fire but its normal. Even used to specify in the manuals of ones you got from radio shack or the like.
Is there some special technique to using this tool??? I bought it and tried to remove a dual pot. It seems there is always some solder left that keeps the component from coming off. Any help appreciated.
I purchased one of these a short while ago and on first use the element caught fire. I got a refund and purchased a station version and never looked back.
Thank you for the teardown video of this device, Yes, It's CHEAP but does the job quite well once you get the knack of correct position & timing to press the button. Being in the 240v~ 50Hz UK environment, I was a little shocked at the close proximity of the heat coil & the outer metal sheath, that, action was required to make it a class 1 appliance by adding a small earth wire routed through from end to end, one end soldered into a loop connects to a provided threaded hole on the metal sheathed support bracket (I had to find a screw to match the threaded hole, It's the same size as the sheath support screw) & the other soldered to the earth wire of the new 0.75mm earth cable & sleeved, neutral & live soldered as existing & fitted with a 3Amp fused UK plug. Note: 1/ The mains cable I fitted was lying around the workshop, I THINK it's 0.75mm, It's the same size flex used in 3 core table lamps (class 1) 2/ I used the green wire of a 6 core flexible alarm cable to run end to end but any small will do as long as it will go through the rubber tube. 3/ Leave a little spare earth cable in the handle area. 4/ The FIDDLY BITS position the sleeved earth under the circuit board & position the 3 cores outa the way of the shut-off contact. (good Idea to put a thinish piece of plastic/rubber over the sharp part in the centre to protect the cables from shorting) There will be many UK residents using appliances with a NON UK plug attached, this means NO PROTECTION FUSE what these devices rely on is a fused converter adapter BUT, many sold/supplied DON’T have a fuse in them either (mine didn’t) so easy too ignore & lethal too, BE SAFE check your adapters. There are many selling replacement tips on fleebay at ridicules prices for one of each available tips (Pores & Rough Hole) However, there's 1 selling 10 x pores or rough for £2.39 Inc. pp, paste this into fleebay uk search & look for it in the list 10pcs Metal Electric Vacuum Suction Iron Head Rough Hole Solder Sucker Nozzle Regards
I have a silly question, I bought this exact unit, but should have bought a 110V, The seller will not let me return it. Do you have any tips on how I could convert this unit to operate on 110V? Is it just the Heater core I would need to replace, or other components to?
I know on amazon somebody had a review comment they took apart these vacuum desolder the one your display on your video they made into 110v they took 220v cord plug out i don't know you can do it with 120v too since i lived in the USA.Somebody needs do a modify video on it on youtube.
sounds no better than the ECG rubber bulb iron. At least replacement tips are widely available for the ECG. I keep a selection though of tools for the purpose, and pick based on need. I have desoldering wick (various), a couple of spring loaded hand pumps, the ECG rubber bulb desoldering iron, and a Hakko FR-301. Which I use depends on what needs done, as sometimes a hand pump is the best tool for the job instead of the Hakko for instance (at the cost of the Hakko, and the cost for new tips for it, I kind of only use it when I really need to).
@@andrewmcneil Thank you for your reply. Also good to hear that spareparts are available... I guess it took some research to find it. I mean: finding a sparepart for a non-branded device can be a challenge
I think the failing part of the unit will be the electromagnet coil, the inrush each time you press the button will take its toll on the coil, especially any weak point within the winding or connections.
Thanks for the teardown and review, very helpful! Mine didn't come with a plug adapter, fortunately I have one at home. I'm thinking of replacing the power cable with a computer one, which is much sturdier and doesn't need an adapter. Is there a place where the ground wire can be soldered, or should I only use 2 wires as the original?
I have one of the non-electric pumps with the plunger that you push down and a button to release it, but it doesn't do all that well. Is this electric pump an upgrade to that, or is it just a convenience thing?
Just got mine in the mail and the magnet doesnt seem to be holding - I hold the button and it repeatedly sucks and releases like a machine gun - just wondering if I can repair it as I won't be buying another.. Any ideas? Thx!
Hello there Brian, the reason why is doing that is because the tip is getting obstructed, you need to lean it a bit to the side so it can get a bit of air and suck the solder, by the way is it getting hot enough to melt the solder? mine is not melting the solder, it does get worm but no luck. have left it for 30min and sill not hot enough......
Hi, thanks for replying - actually the problem is worse - I live in asia and the voltage is 110v, - it needs over 200v! so it isnt getting enough current for the magnet or the heater - the aliexpress page didnt note this but another seller did- are you in a 110v country? if so, that's why it's not getting hot enough - gotta buy a step up transformer for it now....
I had the same problem with the machine gun effect. It sucks off the solder then immediately sprays it all over your PCB. I used it for one project to remove a few resistors. Te next time I plugged it in and just get a weak hum. The button does not fire at all now. I contacted the vendor on eBay and they promised me a replacement unit. We will see!!!
mine broke down, im assuming its the magnet that is broken because its still heats up, but when i press the red button, it sucked but it does not go back until i unplug the cable. does anyone have advice to give for me?
you can change the wires out it to 110v or 120 v just take whole 220v plug out put one 120v cord with the plug in it or you can do it with 110v cord plug one.
220/ 230 / 240 volt 60 hertz single phase is the standard voltage supplied to homes in the United States! Our 110/120 is either one of the two hot lines to neutral. Our electric stoves, large window air conditioners , central air conditioners ,electric furnaces all operate on 220/ 240 50 to 60 hertz AC . That plug pictured on the unit is a U.S 110 /120 volt .
It's not a good idea to twist a component off the board, not in a violent fashion anyway. The method of removing of SMD capacitors using a gentle back and forward motion until the metal in the pins fatigues and the component drops off the board can be useful when you don't want to apply heat because the board is too fragile or because the corrosive electrolyte from the capacitor( yes if you are heating a leaked SMD capacitor the electrolyte will start to spew all over the board) will get in an inconvenient place (under a component that is impossible to remove - a fragile screen ...). A tool like this Chinese crap in the video is dangerous because you can't control the amount of heat you apply to the board If you do want to repair boards there are much better cheap Chinese solutions
(3:30) - You say that *_"these wires do look a little bit thin to be carrying mains electricity."_* Actually, the fact that it's 240 volt mains has got nothing to do with the size of the conductors (wires). Have you seen the size of the wire that is connected to the starter motor of your car ? That's just 12 volts. No. What matters is the current. Now the heating element of this desoldering tool is rated (or at least advertised) as being 30 watts. How many amps is 30 watts at 240 volts ? Easy. Power, (in Watts) is defined as the voltage multiplied by the current or amperage. Basically, P (power in Watts) = I (current) x V (voltage). Therefore, the current I = power (P) over voltage (V) The reason we need to know the current is because it is the current , not the voltage, that determines the minimum size of allowable wire. So, we have the current, I in amps (A) = power, P in watts (W) over the voltage, U in volts (V). (Yes, I know it's confusing. Voltage or potential difference is represented as U, volts are represented as V. Please, don't ask me why.) ( I = P / U == A = W / V ) - this is correct SI terminology. But most British electricians would write the formula as: I = P / V (I know, it's all kinda screwed up). Anyway... I = 30 / 240 I = 0.125A (amperes) So the current is 125 milliamps. The minimum size of cable to carry 125 milliamps is actually so small that even a single strand of that very small wire you see there would be quite sufficient. Remember, it's the current, not the voltage which is the deciding factor when it comes to wire sizes. All the best. >
(1:15) - Whispery bits ? You said *_"whispery bits"_* Now, *_wispy bits_* would make sense. *_"Wispy"_* is a proper word. It's in the dictionary . And *_"Wispy bits"_* would be a perfect description of what you are showing. As would *_whiskery bits_* But *_whispery bits ?_* Er, no. Do those bits whisper to you ? What do they whisper ? Pray tell... I find this really interesting because I have noticed that Yorkshire folk tend to say *_"slippy"_* when they really mean *_"slippery"._* In fact, *_slippy_* really isn't a proper word inasmuch as used in the sense of a slippery surface. The proper usage of the word *_slippy_* refers to a potters slip. That viscous diluted, watery clay stuff. So, it seems that not only do the Yorkshire folk get the words *_slippy_* and *_slippery_* back to front. They also conflate the words *_wispy_* and *_whispery_* also mixed up but in the opposite way. Well, they do say: *_there's nowt so queer as folk._* Lovely video, anyway. Got a thumb's up from me. >
I do not understand why there isn't a small continuous pump. That cylinder is so large, and the solenoid spring is so fast - that volume of air must be needed at that speed in order to be effective. I do not think that thing can stay steady in your hand if the mass of the piston is swinging back and fourth, can't hold it steady. In any case. I'm just going to hook external vacuum up to my cheap-o soldering iron with a metal filter....
I wouldn't trust a soldering iron with a mains powered heating element. If the insulation fails, the tip could become energized. A good iron has a low voltage element powered from a transformer. If you are going to use that thing, at least ground the tip and use it on an RCD protected circuit.
The principle is sound, and keep in mind, that with a hand pump, you still have to clear the pump after every use, and the workspace can get quite covered in tiny solder bits when using a hand pump. The problem I see here is that it spits it every time you release the button, but with a hand pump you chose when and where to clear the pump.
![DIY | How to Make (Improve) a DeSoldering Iron With an Electric Vacuum Pump [3D printed] #electronic](/img/1.gif)
Operation:
This is a 220V, 30W unit. It is a very versatile & effective tool, & works extremely well. Has good suction power.
I have reverse engineered the circuit. Here is how it works.
a) When Unit is powered, the mains AC power is applied to the heater-element (230V, 0.137A, 30W, 1.67Kohm).
b) When the PushButton switch ("PBS") is pressed, mains rectified DC (thru a bridge) is applied to the solenoid coil (162ohms, 1.4A, 325W).
This is a huge (325W) heating power which will burn out the solenoid coil if left long.
c) Fortunately, it is applied only for a fraction of second (~0.1 secs), even if the "PBS" is pressed & held. This is because, due to the huge magnetic power, the vaccum plunger is pulled in quickly with a thud-sound, and the spring-loaded-switch (SLS) at the top-end of the unit, is mechanically pushed open from bottom.
d) Once this "SLS" opens, the High current (1.4A, 325W) thru the solenoid is removed, and instead a small holding current of 0.125A only is passed thru it.
This is achieved by an ingenious circuit wherein the heater-coil (1.67Kohm) is now inserted in series with the solenoid coil.
e) Due to this the solenoid-coil gets a lower holding current, which keeps and holds the plunger in position at top, against the spring power, without heating it up.
f) When u release the "PBS", the above holding current is also removed, and the plunger returns back down due to spring power & spits out the sucked solder.
g) Because of this ingenious (& yet simple) circuit, the PBS can be pressed & held longer without fear of burning out the solenoid coil.
h) But due to any problem, if the top "SLS" switch does not open, then the 1.4A/325W current thru solenoid is not interrupted, and it heats up tremendously, and eventually burning out the solenoid, if you keep the PBS pressed & held.
by Bhishmar, Tvm, India.
Can you please explain me how to connect wires on the board with rectifier diodes, that goes from the switch? My tool is broken (one of the diodes burnt), and when I disassemble it, I broke all four colored wires from that small PCB, and I don't know how to reconnect them... :-( I understand that I need to have permanent power for heater, but what confuses me is how to put in series the heater and the solenoid when I press the button. Thanks in advance!
solved ;-)
Did I see a FBR🤔
The is a very good design, now I would order one and hack it out.
Many thanks to your idea.
To complete the hacking,
i) connect the ground to the metal part of the solder iron.
Mine is not working well, but by reading your circuit description, the holding current is not enough because i am using 120V, and maybe that is why it doesn't heat well to melt the solder.
So in order to make it work fine, maybe i just have to change the heating element to something with half the resistance?
The diameter of the wire for mains does not matter, it's the current draw that dictates the necessary wire thickness. In the case of this soldering iron the current draw is 1/8 of an amp (30w @ 240V) even jumper wire can take that amount of current.
If the elements burn out unlike a soldering iron, they cant be replaced. Mine has burnt out. You also have to be careful when cleaning the solder from out of main body. If you are not careful, twisting the cap at the heating element end can result on the heating element wires being twisted and broken.
If you plug it into a watt meter you'll know it has reached operating temperature when the reading stops dropping. I have all my bench tools run through a watt meter so I know when something might have been left on. When I set it up my soldering iron did not have an LED but it did have a switch so it wasn't easy to know if it was on or when it was ready to use. I just used what I had lying around at the time.
Take a dremel tool with a cutting wheel and slice a notch into 1 spot on the tip. It will give an air vent hole so it wont hammer the solenoid and make it easier to use.
A little bit of FLUX on the connectors will make it so you don't need to heat the parts up as much, you won't run the risk of ruining them!
And a bit of fresh solder, to make it even easier.
Don't want to teach my gran how to suck eggs but you may find the solder move better by applying flux and for older joints reflow with some new solder before desoldering
I got this exact device, and unfortunately, the heating element broke after just a couple minutes of use. There was a popping noise, and then the iron eventually went cold. The sucking functionality still works though, which is a little strange. It's a shame because I was able to remove the solder on one pin fairly easily. I don't think I'll invest in another.
Well, they work a lot longer if you run them on an inverter.... on 220 V instead. Otherwise they overheat very, very fast indeed. You can actually see the glow during one of the last parts of the video.
Hi!
I bought one myself and it worked..kinda!
Had it powered on for a good thirty minutes.
Since no stand really fits I had it hanging by a toolhook on a wall.
While fiddling around with something I accidently lifted my eyes and the blue casing had melted becouse of heat and gravity!
Really dangerous tool!!
I ended up buying a desoldering pump with double action diaphrame instead.
That "earthing wire" may be fine for ESD purposes. It is likely a very slightly conductive polymer plastic - probably equivalent to some mega ohms for the whole length of it. Should dissipate static electricity quite well. Arguably, that could be better/safer than a hard ground - say, if the iron tip touches a live mains wire for instance.
You want to use flux and reflow the solder , then its brilliant !
To the best of my belief it is illegal to supply this product in the UK, not only because it has neither a protective earth connection nor apparently double or reinforced insulation between the mains and the accessible metal, but also because the US type of mains plug.
It works even better if you add some flux to the soldering points, and/or some new tin When the component are gone use a braid to clean the last up with if you going to use the board. But Yes.. a Branded pump cost 5-6 times as much or even more so for the moderate user it's a good choise.
Nice review, good that you used is as well. Not too much an improvement over a manual sucker I think.
I think electrical equipment like that should be better insulated or earthed. I have been hooked up to a cheap soldering iron as a kid (mussle cramps in my hand kept me on it) and it was not fun. It could have ended a lot worse as well.
I also take a part everything cheap that is connected to mains.
I had 2 of these blue Chinese desoldering pump...
The 1st one broke after month , I desolder not more than 50 eproms 27c322.
The 2nd broke after 1 hour !!!!!!!
Never again !
Don't waste your money....I got now the Hakko FR300
Homemade car vacuum desolder with broke down desolder
ruclips.net/video/ukB8hU2PSy8/видео.html
don't throw yours out you should see my video you can use car vacuum cleaner on it.
Hello Andrew, Is this still working 2+ years later?
Hello Andrew, is this still working 5 years+ later?
Hello Andrew, is this working 7 years+ later?
Hello Andrew, is this still working 8 years+ later? 🫣
i have the same like yours,but now the selonoid got problem sometimes stuck, the cooper contact point at rear was touching the supply wire when it moving and scrub the insulation.. i dig a new hole then wiring a new path and not touch the contact. i like this pump make my job done but the safety need to be fix by manufcturer..
For the price I'd buy one. I find the manual solder suckers very cumbersome and slow. It also takes me two hands to push down the plunger. Unfortunately this one from China is only available in 220 volts. So I'll be looking at probably a much more costly Hakko. Nice demo thou :)
If your unsure of cheap ebay stuff read there feedback or buy a well known make that you trust, most stuff from China is cheap but you get what you pay for
(3:12) - You say that you are *_"not an electrical electrician",_* and that's absolutely fine.
But I would just like to say that if anyone is considering hiring an electrician, that the best type of electricians are the electrical ones.
You can't beat electrical electricians for general level of their safety practices, and your own peace of mind.
Remember folks, if you need any electrical work doing, an electrical electrician is way, way superior in all aspects than your common or garden, ordinary, bog-standard, electrician.
I mean, I shudder to think of the possible implications, but an ordinary electrician is just not electrical and is a danger to us all.
>
@bodragon I spat my drink out laughing at your comment. Hahaha
This is some copypasta right here
The weak point is the weak spot welded bracket the shaft/tip screws onto, once that lets go the internal metal tube breaks in half with it
Wowee! Thanks so much for the great in depth review on this unit. I need one myself, but haven't gotten around to that yet and came looking for just this review and teardown. Thanks for the comments as well on safety concerns. If I get this unit now, I know to watch the cabling and such.
You can use an infrared temperature sensor to tell the temperature
Good Job, thanks for the video. This seems to be one step up from the soldering irons that have the spring cocked solder sucker built in with more volume.
I have had a couple of these. They work reasonably well to start off with, but then the contacts at the back of the solenoid fail. They are a pretty dangerous design from an electrical perspective and would fail UK electrical regulations. I would not buy one.
Same here! Solenoid fires de magnet rapidly...
Homemade car vacuum desolder with broke down desolder
ruclips.net/video/ukB8hU2PSy8/видео.html
I notice it had a u.s. plug on it which it wouldnt work in the u.s. because the desoldering pump is rated at 220 volts in there adds , you are right about bad electrical connection on the insides .thanks for shareing
about the heating elements smoking. Yeah, kinda usual. Nichrome elements would smoke a bit when new.
Just like a new toaster :)
Trying to decide between this and a $250 Hakko the choice was clear. I am now free of that spare $250 but I won't need to hit every pin 4 times.
looks good. I have a few things now and then I'd like to salvage. looks like this will do the trick for me
Hi, I would like to ask you for a small favor if possible. When disassembling my desoldering iron, which is the same as yours, the four cables that go from the tip and the switch to the motherboard came loose and I don't know how they were soldered. Could you tell me or send me an image? and thank you very much for your videos keep it up (sorry for my English I'm from Spain)
i used a 30w lead extractor almost like that. 30w is not enough to melt the lead completely. very difficult to use. and if you are in a country with lower temperature then the wattage ratio must be increased.
i used a 30w lead extractor almost like that. 30w is not enough to melt the lead completely. very difficult to use. and if you are in a country with lower temperature then the wattage ratio has to be increased. i just threw one in the trash 2 days ago
my big problem with these is they're only 30w, making them functionally useless for something with a big ground plane.
They're useless for more reasons than that. Try doing any microelectronics with this. No chance, doesn't even touch the solder.
Good Video that show me all what I wanted to know about this tool. Thank You!
should always solder over factory solder using softer solder before desoldering..old factory solder is usually harder and goesn't flow
Hello how the rear part can be dismantled, one of the two power cables seems to be welded, there is play and the pump does not heat up. I unscrewed the black cache and I don't know how to go further. Thank you in advance for your return
I managed to remove the base and re-weld it connect the wire in question. It was not easy, in particular to put the two springs back on
Hi, excellent Video, I use it too. But recently made small modification adding a ground conection wiring. My problem I took pictures to mounting circuit back and loose them so I don't know were to solder each green, red, blue & white wires. Would you mind to take a picture of other side of the circuit board? Appreciated
ALL soldering irons weither cheap or expensive will smoke for the first few runs. Sometimes its enough to think its on fire but its normal. Even used to specify in the manuals of ones you got from radio shack or the like.
i have one like this but my don't heat like before . how can this be fixed with a resistor or somenthing????
Is there some special technique to using this tool??? I bought it and tried to remove a dual pot. It seems there is always some solder left that keeps the component from coming off. Any help appreciated.
I purchased one of these a short while ago and on first use the element caught fire.
I got a refund and purchased a station version and never looked back.
Any of the soldering stations are better than this rubbish thing the tip isn't even earthed
Thanks for that. I'm confident that I made the right choice.
In buying it, or not buying it?
thannk you so much for the demostration very usefull
Thank you for the teardown video of this device, Yes, It's CHEAP but does the job quite well once you get the knack of correct position & timing to press the button.
Being in the 240v~ 50Hz UK environment, I was a little shocked at the close proximity of the heat coil & the outer metal sheath, that, action was required to make it a class 1 appliance by adding a small earth wire routed through from end to end, one end soldered into a loop connects to a provided threaded hole on the metal sheathed support bracket (I had to find a screw to match the threaded hole, It's the same size as the sheath support screw) & the other soldered to the earth wire of the new 0.75mm earth cable & sleeved, neutral & live soldered as existing & fitted with a 3Amp fused UK plug.
Note:
1/ The mains cable I fitted was lying around the workshop, I THINK it's 0.75mm, It's the same size flex used in 3 core table lamps (class 1)
2/ I used the green wire of a 6 core flexible alarm cable to run end to end but any small will do as long as it will go through the rubber tube.
3/ Leave a little spare earth cable in the handle area.
4/ The FIDDLY BITS position the sleeved earth under the circuit board & position the 3 cores outa the way of the shut-off contact. (good Idea to put a thinish piece of plastic/rubber over the sharp part in the centre to protect the cables from shorting)
There will be many UK residents using appliances with a NON UK plug attached, this means NO PROTECTION FUSE what these devices rely on is a fused converter adapter BUT, many sold/supplied DON’T have a fuse in them either (mine didn’t) so easy too ignore & lethal too, BE SAFE check your adapters.
There are many selling replacement tips on fleebay at ridicules prices for one of each available tips (Pores & Rough Hole) However, there's 1 selling 10 x pores or rough for £2.39 Inc. pp, paste this into fleebay uk search & look for it in the list 10pcs Metal Electric Vacuum Suction Iron Head Rough Hole Solder Sucker Nozzle
Regards
I'm thinking of getting one. Would you say it is working perfectly without breaking anything, the PCB track especially?
I have a silly question, I bought this exact unit, but should have bought a 110V, The seller will not let me return it. Do you have any tips on how I could convert this unit to operate on 110V? Is it just the Heater core I would need to replace, or other components to?
personally I'd have had heatshrink put over the thermal insulation just so everything is isolated, but that's just me
I know on amazon somebody had a review comment they took apart these vacuum desolder the one your display on your video they made into 110v they took 220v cord plug out i don't know you can do it with 120v too since i lived in the USA.Somebody needs do a modify video on it on youtube.
Last time I look they only made that that resolder tool in 220 volts
Are these continuous suction or or like manual ones split second.
Thanks Andrew, this is the type of review that I love! Now I know I can buy one.
sounds no better than the ECG rubber bulb iron. At least replacement tips are widely available for the ECG. I keep a selection though of tools for the purpose, and pick based on need. I have desoldering wick (various), a couple of spring loaded hand pumps, the ECG rubber bulb desoldering iron, and a Hakko FR-301. Which I use depends on what needs done, as sometimes a hand pump is the best tool for the job instead of the Hakko for instance (at the cost of the Hakko, and the cost for new tips for it, I kind of only use it when I really need to).
Great video! Helped me make my mind up if it was worth the trouble. I wonder how long that element will last hehe.
Electric Vacuum melt solder without lead, temperature is 450 degrees ?
Thank you a lot for showing this!
Hi Andrew, I was wodering how this thing kept up over time. Thank you for this great video. It helps me to select a low cost Desoldering pump.
It still works but I had to replace the solenoid last year!
@@andrewmcneil Thank you for your reply. Also good to hear that spareparts are available... I guess it took some research to find it. I mean: finding a sparepart for a non-branded device can be a challenge
its better to suck solder from side of componet
more vaccume better heat disapation and doesnt destroy tip as fast..........
did 60 tv boards
I think the failing part of the unit will be the electromagnet coil, the inrush each time you press the button will take its toll on the coil, especially any weak point within the winding or connections.
Thanks for the teardown and review, very helpful! Mine didn't come with a plug adapter, fortunately I have one at home. I'm thinking of replacing the power cable with a computer one, which is much sturdier and doesn't need an adapter. Is there a place where the ground wire can be soldered, or should I only use 2 wires as the original?
Its plastic, route the earth to the iron stem but remember to protect it against the heat
You should have done the teardown before you compromised it..........
I have one of the non-electric pumps with the plunger that you push down and a button to release it, but it doesn't do all that well. Is this electric pump an upgrade to that, or is it just a convenience thing?
based on the video, it looks just as bad.
Does it still work?
Just got mine in the mail and the magnet doesnt seem to be holding - I hold the button and it repeatedly sucks and releases like a machine gun - just wondering if I can repair it as I won't be buying another.. Any ideas? Thx!
Hello there Brian, the reason why is doing that is because the tip is getting obstructed, you need to lean it a bit to the side so it can get a bit of air and suck the solder, by the way is it getting hot enough to melt the solder? mine is not melting the solder, it does get worm but no luck. have left it for 30min and sill not hot enough......
Hi, thanks for replying - actually the problem is worse - I live in asia and the voltage is 110v, - it needs over 200v! so it isnt getting enough current for the magnet or the heater - the aliexpress page didnt note this but another seller did- are you in a 110v country? if so, that's why it's not getting hot enough - gotta buy a step up transformer for it now....
That is correct, that is my problem too, thanks for the tip friend
I had the same problem with the machine gun effect. It sucks off the solder then immediately sprays it all over your PCB. I used it for one project to remove a few resistors. Te next time I plugged it in and just get a weak hum. The button does not fire at all now. I contacted the vendor on eBay and they promised me a replacement unit. We will see!!!
How that soldering iron from China is legal to send to the UK is disgraceful!
Nice video! I buy one after seeing this.
@Ajit C.S any chance to convert this in order to work at 110V? What modifications would be needed?
you have good video but in my place all stuff you have in ur video are not available in here...even i buy in rbay, it takes 1 month till arrive
mine broke down, im assuming its the magnet that is broken because its still heats up, but when i press the red button, it sucked but it does not go back until i unplug the cable. does anyone have advice to give for me?
It’s the solenoid coil you can pick up a replacement from ebay for around £3. Had to replace mine last year.
another awesome video, thank you Andrew
working well
Thought this had a vacuum pump thanks to your video I know better and might pay more or make my own either way I know better now!
can this be had at USA voltage? Is it on US Ebay? THANKS.
Why don't you go there and find out?
@@NatureAndTech 2yrs later but any response? I cant fins a single 110 volt version
2018 is it stil working just for hobby not for expert use of course
It is still going and I use it more than I thought I would. :-)
andrew mcneil hello there what brand it is thanks for the video
To bad its only 220 volt doesn't help in the u.s.
Ron Thompson buy a step up transformer, they are like 20 bucks.
you can change the wires out it to 110v or 120 v just take whole 220v plug out put one 120v cord with the plug in it or you can do it with 110v cord plug one.
USE DIMMER
220/ 230 / 240 volt 60 hertz single phase is the standard voltage supplied to homes in the United States! Our 110/120 is either one of the two hot lines to neutral. Our electric stoves, large window air conditioners , central air conditioners ,electric furnaces all operate on 220/ 240 50 to 60 hertz AC . That plug pictured on the unit is a U.S 110 /120 volt .
Where and how much
0:56 "Extra chaaniise".
Suitable only for occasional use!
Hi guy, what volt do u use this? I just buy this, it does not work with 110 volt .
take 220v out cord with the plug out get 110v cord with plug on it that how change the wires out of it.
foxman362 thank you
www.quail.com/Catalog/TechnicalInformation_Section.pdf you can see everything about wiring for all the countries around the world.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000233WJ6/ i'm going try it with this plug.
I buy one and he dont heat up well he do nothing was bad heat
very good review, thank you.
Can you recommend a budget priced on that's an always on pump? U know the ones you hold the button in
Think I will stay with Desoldering Pump / BRAID / put a big tip on the soldering iron
The perfect tool to remove some pads!
It's not a good idea to twist a component off the board, not in a violent fashion anyway. The method of removing of SMD capacitors using a gentle back and forward motion until the metal in the pins fatigues and the component drops off the board can be useful when you don't want to apply heat because the board is too fragile or because the corrosive electrolyte from the capacitor( yes if you are heating a leaked SMD capacitor the electrolyte will start to spew all over the board) will get in an inconvenient place (under a component that is impossible to remove - a fragile screen ...).
A tool like this Chinese crap in the video is dangerous because you can't control the amount of heat you apply to the board
If you do want to repair boards there are much better cheap Chinese solutions
Does this tool still work?
No
@@andrewmcneil So how long did it last?
lol, that red glowing heat element...
is there a brand to it?
+Nicholas Heidl China.
+tmkr yes, I know it's made in chine but who made it, which manufacturer, what model?
+Nicholas Heidl www.ebay.de/itm/30W-220V-50Hz-Electric-Vacuum-Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Pump-Iron-Gun-/401119514049?hash=item5d64960dc1:g:Ky4AAOSw~oFXM4lk
Thank you very much .
Very good video.
Do not buy this unless you like the solder to constantly jump and hit your hands, very weak, full of problems, the button also has problems, very bad
13:51 like your fingers?
(3:30) - You say that *_"these wires do look a little bit thin to be carrying mains electricity."_*
Actually, the fact that it's 240 volt mains has got nothing to do with the size of the conductors (wires).
Have you seen the size of the wire that is connected to the starter motor of your car ? That's just 12 volts.
No. What matters is the current.
Now the heating element of this desoldering tool is rated (or at least advertised) as being 30 watts.
How many amps is 30 watts at 240 volts ?
Easy. Power, (in Watts) is defined as the voltage multiplied by the current or amperage.
Basically, P (power in Watts) = I (current) x V (voltage).
Therefore, the current I = power (P) over voltage (V)
The reason we need to know the current is because it is the current , not the voltage, that determines the minimum size of allowable wire.
So, we have the current, I in amps (A) = power, P in watts (W) over the voltage, U in volts (V).
(Yes, I know it's confusing. Voltage or potential difference is represented as U, volts are represented as V. Please, don't ask me why.)
( I = P / U == A = W / V ) - this is correct SI terminology.
But most British electricians would write the formula as:
I = P / V
(I know, it's all kinda screwed up).
Anyway...
I = 30 / 240
I = 0.125A (amperes)
So the current is 125 milliamps.
The minimum size of cable to carry 125 milliamps is actually so small that even a single strand of that very small wire you see there would be quite sufficient.
Remember, it's the current, not the voltage which is the deciding factor when it comes to wire sizes.
All the best.
>
(1:15) - Whispery bits ?
You said *_"whispery bits"_*
Now, *_wispy bits_* would make sense.
*_"Wispy"_* is a proper word.
It's in the dictionary
.
And *_"Wispy bits"_* would be a perfect description of what you are showing.
As would *_whiskery bits_*
But *_whispery bits ?_*
Er, no.
Do those bits whisper to you ?
What do they whisper ?
Pray tell...
I find this really interesting because I have noticed that Yorkshire folk tend to say *_"slippy"_* when they really mean *_"slippery"._*
In fact, *_slippy_* really isn't a proper word inasmuch as used in the sense of a slippery surface.
The proper usage of the word *_slippy_* refers to a potters slip. That viscous diluted, watery clay stuff.
So, it seems that not only do the Yorkshire folk get the words *_slippy_* and *_slippery_* back to front.
They also conflate the words *_wispy_* and *_whispery_* also mixed up but in the opposite way.
Well, they do say: *_there's nowt so queer as folk._*
Lovely video, anyway.
Got a thumb's up from me.
>
that thing should be for 10$
My version of "pimple popping" so satisfying watching this.... yes I need help... ;)
no good,thanks,i have save my money
omg what a ripoff. i am glad i saw this video. i thought that was a constant pump.
Erich Stein I also thought that xd
I do not understand why there isn't a small continuous pump. That cylinder is so large, and the solenoid spring is so fast - that volume of air must be needed at that speed in order to be effective. I do not think that thing can stay steady in your hand if the mass of the piston is swinging back and fourth, can't hold it steady. In any case. I'm just going to hook external vacuum up to my cheap-o soldering iron with a metal filter....
You lot expect a pump version for £20.00............
Scarsa qualità. Lavora solo qualche mese.......
I wouldn't trust a soldering iron with a mains powered heating element. If the insulation fails, the tip could become energized. A good iron has a low voltage element powered from a transformer.
If you are going to use that thing, at least ground the tip and use it on an RCD protected circuit.
You sir have trust issues.
I learned a lot but laughed even more.
No.
This thing is a liquid solder spitting fire hazard....
Just amazing china xD
The principle is sound, and keep in mind, that with a hand pump, you still have to clear the pump after every use, and the workspace can get quite covered in tiny solder bits when using a hand pump. The problem I see here is that it spits it every time you release the button, but with a hand pump you chose when and where to clear the pump.
What a piece of crap, thanks for the heads up