(00)7 Ways James Bond Breaks the Rules of Style | The Suits of James Bond
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2024
- Full Post at The Suits of James Bond Written by Matt Spaiser:
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This is the first in a series of videos I will be producing with the help of Suits of James Bond founder Matt Spaiser. In this video Matt reviews 7 times Bond breaks the rules of style:
1. No Waist-covering with black tie
2. Nontraditional shirts with black tie
3. Fastening the bottom button
4. Casual shoes with city suits
5. Short-sleeve shirts with suits
6. Knitted ties with city suits
7. Belts with three-piece suits
Each of the Bond actors from Sean Connery, George Lazenby, Roger Moore, Timothy Dalton, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig are all guilty of these style mistakes, use this series to learn from each of them!
Other videos in the Suits of James Bond x The Kavalier series: • Suits of James Bond x ...
(00)7 Ways James Bond Breaks the Rules of Style: • (00)7 Ways James Bond ...
How to Pair Socks like James Bond: • How to Pair Socks Like...
(00)7 Coolest James Bond Suit Moments: bit.ly/2IkboBb
Written and co-produced by Matt Spaiser
Produced and Edited by Jon Shanahan
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You've got this all backwards. Bond isn't breaking the rules of fashion. Fashion is breaking the rules of Bond.
He's James Bond for Christ sake.
💯
The thing to remember about Bond's character, is that he is supposed to have come from an Upper Class family, but was raised by more common people after his parents died in an accident. He's stuck between world's, doesn't fit into either, and this, I believe, is why he is often breaks the formality rules, because he just doesn't know them. It's an important part of his psychology, and the whole trying to fit into world's not his own is a major reason why he took to spying, in the novels.
That...actually makes some degree of sense.
u have to remember he has lots of little gadgets built into his clothes. like the belt has things hidden inside it as do the ties and shoes. so he has no choice on what he wears. His clothes r designed to hide the gadgets he is equiped with.
Little kid wouldn't know the rules but they are learned at a later point in life, not inherited via mother's milk.
That makes zero sense , Bond has proven to be very knowledgeable about most things , especially luxury… what are you talking about ? Lol
He does most everything in a suit smh …
Or he could just want to break the rules becuase why not
You have to remember that Bond is, in reality, an office worker and he dresses as a senior London office worker dresses.
As for semi formal wear (White tie and tails is formal, not a DJ) I once attended a briefing given to British diplomats going abroad for their first posting and one young man asked the very senior ambassador when one should wear a white or cream dinner jacket.
The withering answer came back "Only when leading a jazz orchestra..."
I'm watching this in my pants and dirty t-shirt eating cereal......Thinking of course....a kinitted tie with a formal suit...you savage
Surprised the clown suit and gorrilla costume didn't make it on the list... :-)
What you mean?
@@rucaskeeper666 the clown suit and gorilla costume Roger Moore wears in Octopussy. Probably the most obvious (and infamous) way Bond has ever broken style rules...
Given that most men that frequent casinos are usually track suit wearing drunks or Chinese takeaway owners in Jesus sandals
Bond is usually a pretty smart dresser. ✌👿
George Donaldson so you frequent casinos then do you?
THIS IS THE TRUEST THING IVE EVER READ
VXDAN CRS I was going to write exactly that. It is so, so true.
Let me point out that Bond does have a shoulder holster. Those move. By fastening the lower button, you make it move less. You also draw attention away from where the shoulder holster keeps the gun, making it harder to spot. Because of that, it's not a bad idea. The extra second it takes you to spot the gun could be all he needs.
And remember to have some gold coins in the front jacket pockets, when the PPK flashes out.
He’s not actually wearing it in any scenes unless it’s being shown though. So that’s moot.
Waist covering with black tie may be absolutely essential in US style guides, but in the UK's Debrett's style guide it is distinctly optional.
I agree and as we all know, the UK´s style is the more classic one.
Bond never breaks the rules. The rules breaks Bond.
Only my dad and uncles knew as much about men's fashion as you. I haven't been in enough formal situations or high status business meetings for any of this to matter. I like that you know this because society has become so much less classy than it used to be and there is comfort in knowing standards still exist. I like classy stylish women and having good knowledge about men's fashion will make you a more attractive man.
Ultimately, I'm in the camp that believes Bond's transgressions of etiquette are not mistakes. They are Bond's (and Ian Fleming's) subtle F-you's to Britain's classist aristocracy.
Ian Fleming came from a wealthy British family (merchant banking), but he was also served as a naval intelligence officer. His prep school life is described as one of "physical hardship and bullying."
When it comes to Martini's, "shaken, not stirred," it says a lot about Bond as a man. Like his choice of clothes, it's inconceivable "that Bond would make such elementary mistakes in his preferences. It seems incongruous with his otherwise impeccable mastery of etiquette." Ultimately, Bond is a public servant. He's not an aristocrat. He's also an independent thinker with a "00" designation - authorization to use lethal force at his discretion.
He's sending messages about how he sees himself and he's daring anyone to tell him that he's "wrong."
fuck you's*
No need to censor.
Thank you ! Bravo , all these people saying bond doesn’t know things as basic as that when he’s demonstrated an impeccable mastery of most things concerning etiquette en luxury … I just wonder what people are reading or seeing smh
I completely agree with this comment. In Casino Royale, Vesper pinpointed Bond's attitude towards classic dress and etiquette, as he "wears it (the suit) with such disdain". He clearly isn't the type who would dress up, but it's part of his job and therefore, he embraces it and makes unconventional style choices. That's why Bond tends to dress down his outfits, by using knit/grenadine ties with worsted suits, skipping the cummerbund for black tie, or using cocktail cuffs instead of French cuffs
Here is a fun fact: going along with that cream looks better on film. When I worked on films we would use a special dye on evey article of clothing to turn evey white into an off white or even cream color. It really does make a massive improvement to how the clothing and overall picture turns out.
So basically, Bond was epitomizing _sprezzatura_ before the term fell into common use.
Lol no. Seems like you don't actually know what sprezzatura actually means. I'll give you that there knitted ties, you could count as being that, but for the most part it was just bad styling.
My man Si
Here’s #8: In Goldfinger, Bond wears a suit and short socks. When he sits down, his bare shins & calves show - a sartorial no-no when wearing a suit.
I always wear Pantherella long socks to avoid showing any bare leg. M.
That reminds me: In Tomorrow Never Dies, when Bond escapes Carver's Hamburg printing plant on a rollerboard, he's also wearing short socks. I think it's only the stuntman, though. But it irritates me every time.
Very helpful. I watch this every so often. Thank you. M.
This is awesome. You explain the complexities of suit etiquette in a short and concise manner. Bravo.
Yes Matt is very detailed and incredibly knowledgeable! I am learning a lot working with him from his blog.
As he was considered for the part of Bond , Cary Grant could show them all how to dress , dark tan shoes with a grey suit , wonderful .
In all honesty, Roger Moore and Sean Connery could break 7 more rules twice and they would still look way better and more dressy and stylish than many fashion addicted guys those days in way too tight jackets and shirts, flood (dress) trousers and no show socks combined with dress shoes and trousers/suits. And wearing overpriced Chinese watches. The video is good, not criticizing, but that had to be said. BTW, wondering how many style rules Lagerfeld is breaking all day long ;-)
Styles are made to be broken and those who look good breaking them is how you separate the real men from the boys.
This was a pretty subtle “born in the wrong generation“
Sounds more like you just don't like modern fashion than anything else.
Styles change. Get over it
It's not a matter of ancient or modern or wrong generation. It's a matter of look and style. Fashion trends come and go and get resurrected and remixed over and over again. Some times it looks good, other times it looks weird, depending also on your body shape, personality and in some cases age. You can go timeless (modern-) classic and never be wrong (even breaking a few "rules"), and you can follow all fancy fashion trends and get some laughs a few years later.
The thing is, their clothes are tailor made and done perfectly to match their body size. Anyone can look like that as long as they have standard/average body proportions and are willing to spend a bit more with a tailor.
Please make more, this was very informative and you did great editing to highlight your talking points.
Love this series idea! Keep 'em coming!
Excellent stuff. Mixing my two favourite subjects together ;D
Amazingly put together video. Thank you!!
Wow, I love this different, new style of video. Both fun and informative. I can tell this took a lot of time and research. Thanks for sharing.
Jon, this great! Very cool idea for a video!
This was awesome Jon! I very much enjoyed this man. 👍🏻👍🏻. Love the finishing touch at the ending of your name. I saw that 😁
Matt I read your blogs all the time. I didnt buy a suit until i studied your posts and BAMFstyle's post. Keep up with this series!
I admit I hadn't been paying too much attention to those details in the 007 movies. This was quite enlightening.
I really enjoyed this. Entertaining and I learned some things about suits too.
What a well crafted video. Bravo!
I never knew, there are so many _Rules_ to wearing a Suit. I guess that's because i not have allot chance to wear one ;p
Great video. Thanks!
Interesting video. Thank you for sharing.
what's the damn point of putting in a button if you're not supposed to use it?
It's a cunning ploy
Henry Mullens in cold or extreme weather
As he said, to create symmetry.
I see it like this I feel like to look like a man
so they can charge more for the extra button and button hole lol. Probably pay £100 more to have the extra button lol.
Very well documented!
One must take bonds gadgets into account.
A shoulder holster disqualifies vests.
That bottom suit button is actually a motorbike.
This guy saves the world 24 times and you do this.
The detail!
Well said. I agree with 99.9% of what you say, but I will differ with short sleeve dress shirts with suits, when in Bermuda, where it is the custom, and I find that wearing a belt with my J Pass three piece suit does not damage its lines, but I will take care to double check next time I wear it. I might add, Sean Connery had to be taught to wear a suit for his role as James Bond, so it makes sense he would not know how to wear it properly.
I often wonder how we've ever reached the point where one would assume they wouldn't be taken seriously unless they were wearing two layers of fabric on the length of both arms in 100 degree weather. No, mate. Dress like that and we'll think you're insane.
thats what I thought. I think a short sleeve shirt with a linen suit is very nice
I agree regarding the belt issue. Whether it distorts the lines depends on a huge variety of factors, including of course the size of the belt, your overall built and how the specific cut of the waistcoat interacts with it.
I might add, Turnbull and Asser includes a self belt with their suits.
A belt is purely decorative. When the suit is properly tailored a belt is not needed.
When Sean Connery rocks a suit or a black tie, this is the way to do it. This is how rules are set.
Great Information!!!
what an interesting, creative idea
Just curious, could you do a bonus round of Bond villains who wore suits. I'd like your take on how the suits look on the big guys: Jaws, Hinx, Oddjob, Tee Hee, Sandor (Guy who fell from roof in Spy Who Loved Me), etc. Maybe stuff on how Dr. No, Kamal Khan, Blofelds (You Only Live Twice and Spectre) wore Mandarin Suits. Just a thought.
Upcoming video covers that but it’s a great topic!
Brilliant! Did Bond triumph because the villain dressed worse or because Bond dressed more practically?
tryarunm Bond dressed more trimumphantly like when he wore the dart watch against Drax, bomb watch against Blofeld, or laser watch against Largo.
His belt more often then not contains a hidden gadget so I guess you can give him a pass in this case as its about function much more than fashion
Absolutely loved the limited edition Barbour sport coat Craig wore while defending his boyhood home at the end of Spectre-have you ever done an analysis?
Other than the choice to button up the second button all his choices are practical. He is first foremost an traveling Assassin therefore he makes due with what he has
Thank you. This was very informative. I wonder about belts and braces sometimes. I have some suit trousers that fit perfectly at the waist with no belt, no braces/suspenders, or side adjusters. I have always thought that if I could fit into the trousers without any of the aforementioned, there was no need to add them if I wore a waistcoat/vest.
Excellent Presentation.
Great video, really enjoyed it. now I am cringing though on all my formal dinners where everybody must have been scorning me for my faux pars! Other than the suit jacket buttons (Sometimes, Always, Never - as I was taught) I have broken them all.....
Thanks looking for a classic look for new years,& yes this is EXTREMELY important😋 in 2023
Great video! Will though agree to disagree on the short sleeved shirts with suits 😉
Great video.
Slips on are in my opinion an excellent choice, very practical and no hassle of laces.
I agree with you, although the WORST insult was the Rolex Submariner with the ladies size NATO strap! I can never get over that!
That was a fun and interesting breakdown
Thank you JB!
very good!
You forget about the BIGGEST one. Diver watch with the suit xD
Very interesting, thank you!
For some of us, non-English speakers, some of the phrases are unfamiliar, and well, I guess some of us aren't as versed when it comes to fashion terminology, so it would help if you explained the more formal, less known, stuff.
Wow, I didn’t realize people know/care about suit etiquette this in depth anymore. It seems like most people have embraced the sprezzatura style without even knowing what it is.
Matt's site is an amazing resource for that level of detail and information!
I think most people are working too hard and don't have the time or money to care about that which is decidedly superfluous next to their anxieties about affording food and electricity. Times have changed; unfortunately, wages haven't.
racewiththefalcons1 I get where you are coming from, the average person definitely can’t afford to have a wardrobe full of tailored suits anymore, at least not without making some sacrifices in their life. I have to say though even in the late 90s and pre ‘08 people still didn’t care about suit etiquette, most people just wore whatever Macy’s or Nordstroms had.
Even before the 80s, I doubt the average person cared about having a full closet of professionally tailored suits
suit etiquette is for the super rich, where customs are important for social respectability and other things. but there are also some practical things here that the video is talking about, like how a short sleeve dress shirt wears your expensive suit coat faster than if you're wearing long sleeve, and the work put into the design of the suits means they should be used with certain ties/shirts/shoes, and these factors can be implemented even with cheap suits to make them look better, a few facts here are just going against the mainstream, highly formal rules and aren't necessarily about aesthetics though.
what kind a pistol should I wear to match my tie?
I think a good one to mention too is how Bond made it popular to wear a dive watch with a suit, instead of opting for a traditional dress watch. Great video, cheers!
Totally. I also love the story of how that particular Rolex even got on screen! What a rich history in this franchise. Thank you for watching!
I wish people had enough class to worry about this.
Marge: Homer, I don't think you should wear a short-sleeved shirt with a tie.
Homer: But Sipowicz does it.
Marge: If Detective Sipowicz jumped off a cliff, would you do that too?
Homer: Ohh, I wish I was Sipowicz.
It's not visible in this video, but 5:34 Bond wears a black belt paired with brown shoes.
5:36 the short is good because for a spy it make him look like someone works in this hotel so easier to be blend into the background.
My job is formal government/semi security but more visual security. I have a three button and I always button all of my buttons because while it is an off the rack suit, I consider it a uniform. So Am I crazy or not?
Proper attire protocol can be break during the shoot of motion picture.
Haha! AWESOME video Jon, i should probably watch the old Bond movies now lol- but where are the Connery Cuffs?! ;D
I made sure there were plenty of shots in there! I had 3:17 in there and thought of it when we were chatting.
Thank you
You see, you have to know the rules to break them. Even in his later years, Frank Sinatra wore notched lapels with Black Tie!
I wear track pants most days but I still found this very interesting for some reason.
The section about dress shirts shows a difference between UK and US. In UK, traditional black tie calls for plain-fronted, hidden buttons, and Windsor collar. This is because the men are supposed to look plain and uniform next to the women who get to wear bright colours. This is different to the US tradition where you get to wear buttons and frills etc etc. If you’re having dinner with the queen you should have a plain, flat-fronted shirt with no embellishments.
I strongly prefer the UK look myself.
The Kavalier If you want to do bond properly, it’s the only way really 😉
Bond is typical british gentleman (in sense of clothing). It's same thing with Kingsmen. They are very british in fasion choices.
4:00 my understanding is that prior to 1940s it was correct to wear a two button jacket with both buttoned. I don't know if they design has changed to accommodate the custom. But Brits would not button the bottom button in honor of Winston Churchill, who couldn't.
Ive always thought that buttoning all the buttons on a jacket looks cool
The thing is, in Fleming's books, he describes Bond as a brute rather than the suave gentleman we see in the films. The fashion faux pas he makes are the only parts of his character that are true to the source material.
Another part of Bond's character is that her likes expensive things. As you mention, in relation to the short sleeved shirts with a suit, the cuffs will bee worn out earlier than they should and since 007 wear expensive clothing, you'd think that he'd want to make it last. The thing is, because of his job, he has a very short life expectancy, as he mentions in Casino Royale.
Essentially, the character of Bond doesn't expect to live very long (as we can see from his drinking habits) and as such, doesn't care about something as petty as fashion. He burns through his money, spending it on material possessions, expensive food and drinks (he loves his caviar) and smokes the rest away. Better to enjoy it now while he can than squirrel it away for the government to take when he's dead!
Video was pretty good though, just think that the clothing is more of a creative decision about the character that everyone seems to overlook.
I think it was the director of Dr. No who grafted his own style sense to Connery's Bond.
great great great video. Not an avid bond fan, but you sure as hell have studied him well.
i'm slightly annoyed by the belts section of this video , bond is an agent , who often runs and is carrying extra items, or both. the belt is necessary in context . a holster for his gun , or ammunition , a place to put an extra gadget or knife, to be used as make shift handcuffs or other things, the belt has its place . the shoes , i think you and bond are wrong. again in the context of agent , he needs to run , climb , ride a horse or a motorbike, most of the time , the shoes connery or moore are using would simply be useless in a fight or emergency action.
For that reason it makes more sense to stick to two-piece suits. If he needs to use his belts as a gadget, it's going to be more difficult to get to it under a three-piece suit. That may be a reason why Pierce Brosnan didn't use the waistcoat that was made for his blue suit in GoldenEye.
That makes sense, breaking the rules but having a good reason for it is acceptable, things like the buttoning of the last button aren't acceptable as they ruin the fit of the suit with no gain, but belts being used for holsters or carrying gadgets makes sense, even though from a fashion standpoint it's a faux pas.
Jonathan dalton I mean shoulder holsters exist for guns
One, the belt is never utilised for beltkit. He hasn't even pulled an SAS yet and cut into his belt to stash some money and a map. Further stashing kit on the waist is a thing soldiers do, not people dressing to fit in. It's bulky and very overt, but also comfortable as the weight is spread well.
Secondly, if Bond is expecting trouble, he adjusts around it. Simple subtle stepups to more action orientated shoes happen frequently, you just can't tell. From Desert Boots to the double monkstrap boots worn recently, you can look smart and still be ready to adjust.
Fascinating.
It seems to me if James Bond wore a cummerbund or formal vest under his suit, he'd have a difficult time getting to his gun holster. It's my observation.
His gun holsters are almost never belt mounted. They're either underarm or built in to the suit.
Three more -
1. He wears a 16mm NATO strap on a Rolex Submariner in "Goldfinger" and "Thunderball", hich is two sizes too small
2. The pink tie in "Diamonds are forever which, aside from being hideous, is tied way too
short and accentuates how overweight Connery as at the time
3. Craig's Tom Ford suits in "Skyfall" and particularly "Spectre" seems to be a little too small for him. no doubt to emphasise his physique but they just make him look like a little like Magilla Gorilla, especially in Spectre.
It's not a NATO strap but a regimental strap. NATO's were not in existence until the 70's
Ok, it's a G10, but it is still too small.
Agreed, and the NATO in SPECTRE is totally inappropriate for any suit.
Shane Wright yes, it’s not a nato strap but let’s call it one to keep it simple. I actually like that it’s two sizes too thin. I know I’m alone in this but I find natos a bit bulky and think the thin strap in dr no looks better. Just my opinion.
I agree Daniel Craig s suits in JB are too small all around - although one in the video is slightly better than general. Leaving aside the common errors identified to all I think pierce brosnan made the least faux Pas/ was best dressed JB in the suit stakes although any critism of Roger Moore is because he was in the style of his time
Would you do one on a videogame character? Agent 47 from the Hitman (2016-18) specifically?
The bottom button of the jacket is never buttoned because King Edward VII got too fat and stopped buttoning the last button to make the jacket more comfortable. This was then adopted as a fashion, then the tradition became the standard.
This only applies to a vest, not a jacket
Depends +Sir Lyonel Cole, if the jacket is cut with the intention of the last button not being buttoned, then buttoning it ruins the tailoring of the jacket.
I'm thinking more about Edward's beer belly.
As far as I'm aware, with waistcoats (vests) you do up all but the last button (and all but the last two buttons if you're wearing a pocket watching in your vest).
With a jacket you do up the first button; the second is optional if it's three-button, but not if it's only two-button; you never do up the third button if it's three-button. Four or more buttons is considered non-standard, so there's no strict rule for it, but wit a four button jacket consider never doing up the bottom button, and possibly leave the next button up also undone.
David Warren That was an over-complicated way to say "don't do the bottom jacket button, but I'm not sure if the rule applies with 4 or more buttoned shirts".
The bottom button thing is valid in the wind.
Fun style breakdown!
Thank you Clint!
@the Kavalier You are a proper gentleman.
Love the Channel! Can you please do Son of a Tailor? Custom fitted brand, perfect shirt 90% on first try!
I have three pairs of black moccasins (each different lift because I'm not that tall), all with a metal bar and all look very formal in my opinion. As long as they are well polished, will work with a formal suit. You must polish everything including the bar, and the sides of the soles. The great thing about them is you can get them on quick when you are awoken by assassins, slip them off quickly for sneaking up on assassins, and you'll never trip over your laces, when working as an assassin yourself.
i know its not about his suits but he wears a freaking dive watch with his formal wear. a dive watch!
He was arguably the one who made it acceptable, or at least started the trend. The submariner goes with the banker suit since the 80s.
pilotstyle123 I don't think he made it acceptable as more to say he did it and owned it unapologetically. But still when am in a suit I don't expected supervillains shoving me in the water so I'll stick to my dress watch 😉
I agree. Im a dresswatch guy myself.
When Sean Connery did it, he was actually diving in his dinner jacket!
Ha yea. Further- everyone saying he should be wearing a ‘dress watch’ also mightn’t know the old custom of NO watches for black-tie/ formal wear. I thought the whole thing was that any event worth formal attire, is more important than anything going on in the outside world (ie- your full attention should be on the hosts and the event, and not at the time. ). Similar to how we view glaring at a phone whilst in the company of others, looking at a watch was once an indicator that one had ‘somewhere better to be’/ rude.
Can you make a video on the pyramid of formality?
For example the levels of formality of each type of shoe, the formality pyramid of colors, of ties, shirts, etc.
Awesome.
Wow, some people over time have actually sat down and come up with these arbitrary little rules!
It could be argued that fashion does not disover what humans inately find aesthetically pleasing, but instead creates abitrary rules that we are then raised to find pleasing. This is supported by the fact that 1) those in modern times who have not been taught these rules find often them silly and abitrary, and 2) other cultures oftne find our clothes silly and we often find the feeling is mutal on our part.
Take a look at what was worn in Tudor times, especially during Elizabeth's reign: many today would think that those huge ruffs were silly, but they thought that they were fashionable. Also, during the 1980s many seemed to think that mullets were actually a good look.
The 60’s Bond is an especially casual guy, and foremost he’s always a hit man so it would make sense that he sticks out
Re: the plainer placket tuxedo shirts Bond sometimes wears (Craig) - I believe it’s a Marcella shirt, which is actually quite a traditional English tuxedo shirt option.
Awesome thx
This is brilliantly explained. You are obviously insane.
3:11 isnt this guy the owner of the bookstore in "before sunset"?
wow! Too many rules to remember
In a world where a clinical attire is predictable, a person like Bond picks these subtle details that stand out and makes people question his character. It's the tiniest details that break an otherwise stereotypical fashion scene, just enough for people to notice that something is different, and see that he is not just another guy in a suit sitting at the table. Owning up to consciously breaking a strict fashion scene, is what makes Bond who he is, and shows he stands that little bit above all the other suit wearers around him, because it's clear he isn't bothered by what anyone else thinks. Self confidence, THAT is what these subtle design choices give his image.
>watching in sweatpants and t-shirt
I agree with 83%, but where I'd disagree is the 2nd point concerning shirts. Flat fronts are just as acceptable in black tie as shirts with a pique bib or other fronts are. Also note that Craig's shirt has a hidden fly. Shirts should show studs or hide buttons otherwise.
Your video just got a shout out on NPR's Podcast Pop Culture Happy Hour's latest episode (July 5th)!
Wow very cool! Welcome NPR Listeners!!