How I Made My 1840's Dress Using McCalls 7988
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2024
- This is the second installment in my new series on how I made some of my older, pre-youtube costumes, and this time, I'm talking about my 1840s dress from 2019. I made this dress using McCalls 7988, by @Angela Clayton as my base, and I will be going over what changes I made to the pattern, as well as some additional pieces and accessories that I created in order to change up the look of this gown.
Let me know what costume you'd like to see me cover next! To see some of my other older costumes, you can check out my video on Every Costume I've Ever Made here: • Everyone Has to Start ...
"How I Made" playlist: • How I Made...
I also recommend checking out Angela Clayton's blog on her dress here: angelacostumer...
McCalls 7988: somethingdelig...
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I have been eying this pattern on Amazon for years since before I ever even really got into sewing and I just finally ordered it today. This dress is just so lovely. Yours came out beautiful! Mine is going to be shortened to below-the-knee length and without the ruffle sleeves so that I can actually wear it as a modern dress. And a zipper 😅
Oh wow, it sounds like this one was a wild adventure in adjustments XD
I love that you explain all the alterations and boo-boos. I'm 70, have been sewing since I was 8 yrs old and still make the occasional train wreck.
I have a bodice mock-up of this pattern sitting in my “Naughty Pile” right now!
This is the era I always thought of as "princess dresses" as a kid. Between the big belled skirts, and the ringlets it's just a dream.
I remember watching Angela's video about this dress way back when, although I don't remember details. I'm sure that McCalls made quite a few changes to the patternonce she was done with it, like adding ease, changing to bag lining, etc in attempt to appeal to a "modern" dress maker. It would be fascinating to get a response from Angela about some of those changes.
Angela doesn't even read comments anymore much less respond to them. She didn't do much beyond look at/study the dress (the original is in the Met and available for private viewing) and draft a pattern from that. Simple enough if you have the training. I do it with a lot of dresses but I know most people can't. The pattern is an easy one. Just make sure you have the right period underclothing, you'll be happier with the finished garment.
I like the dress you are wearing today. Hi from Tasmania.
I'm caught between loving the look of piping but hating actually having to sew it...
I just purchased the pattern ( thank you for the "what we may want to change" segment!) to make a long sleeved day dress for costume college that I hope will be comfy for lectures etc....
I love this ensemble! The color and texture of the fabric is heavenly and suits the style exactly. It looks so lovely on you, too. All three ways you styled it are attractive and look so period. Great project!
I love 1840's fashion so much, it's easily my favorite period of Victorian fashion! This was delightful, and a great insight to the pattern.
I love that you are doing this! It’s so great to have guidance on using standard patterns, and sizing up, which as you say, happens pretty much all the time for us larger bodied folks. Your channel makes me wish I had time to do historical costuming now, with all this help! (As opposed to when I was doing this stuff back in the days before RUclips! Yes, I’m old 😉). Love you and your work!
New word! Pelerine! I need to make myself one for two of my very wide-necked housedresses if I'm not going to wear my robe with capelet with them!
I love this! I love how versatile you made it. I would like to see how you did your first actual bustle dress, please.
Love these overviews of earlier costumes! The footage from your play was also great.
I like that dress style it's remember me of 1840s fashion 🤔♥️
The pic of you taking the dress off reminded me so much of my husband taking his chain mail off!😂
LOL some of us are less than graceful when getting into or out of armour. Or clothing, for that matter...
I think it is ridiculous that the company most likely changed how Angela drafted the pattern. I don't know why they do this. Angela's pattern drafting is very easy to follow and how she puts them together is also very easy. My experience with the big 4 pattern companies, is they add way to much ease and if I make a piece using just their measurements, it comes out way to big and I'm not a small person. 46" bust to start...They still come out way to big. I've learned to pretty much redraw the patterns using various sizes on their pattern pieces and then it comes out fairly well. I love how yours came out and completely agree with your changes. Loved the added longer sleeve part and the caplet you made. You looked great in it too. You are so lucky to have these dresses for the plays you are in. You can just go to your closet and pick out what to wear instead of worrying about what you will wear. Thanks so much for doing this video.
OMG I just bought this pattern. Hi From Australia...... Thank you so much for the tips / info etc. Very handy. Loved the footage of you on stage.
THANK YOU! I have this pattern, but laid it aside precisely because I could not figure out how to manage that boning, the lack of side seams and the skirt. You solved all those problems, so I can actually use this pattern!
This dress is lovely!
My brown silk jaquard 1840's, is piped EVERYWHERE. The effect cant be got by other means. And many areas - i also trimmed some seams with a bias stip as well..which was also very common method of decorating...the result is a gown that actually looks like a genuine orig garment. Just sad it doesnt fit anymore :-(
I really like this one, this is a great silhouette.
love this video, would love to see more breakdowns of previous projects
I too, have this pattern chilling in my cart on etsy!
Thanks for doing this! I was thinking of adding exactly the same type of long sleeve extension to deal with that "older-woman-appropriate-day-wear" problem.
Thank you for sharing your lovely period outfit with modifications and accessories. You are so clever and talented with your sewing abilities.
Hi Rebecca! I enjoy your showing such fashionable history by your creations & pictures. I don't see anymore, but love to see what you are creating! 😁
Bahhh this makes me want to pull that pattern out and make a new 1840s dress!!! Great job!
Do it! 😉
i would love to see all the the Victorian fashion my favorite would be the 1860s if you have made any
I've only made a few 1860s, but one of them does already have its own video, from Sept of last year. It's where I tried to make a dress in a day. I'll also be doing a video very soon that is a brief overview of all my Victorian dresses.
Thanks for a really Interesting deep dive💜 it's really a versatile pice!
I have this pattern in my stash. Lovely to get a few tips & tricks about it, so hopefully it'll be a bit easier to make whenever I get around to it.
I wonder if some of their construction choices were an effort to make the pattern more "costume" friendly for folks not planning on wearing a corset or unfamiliar with more historical sewing techniques.
Yeah the sad part about Big 3 Patterns is that the designer makes an example dress and then the company creates their own method and instructions for making it, changing any historical techniques to "standard" modern pattern methods like bag lining. They also add the ease to the pattern line standard. Which is why you can generally get away with a size with smaller measurements than your own when you don't need the ease. I think they also tend to assume with historical costumes you won't wear a corset with it and therefore try to add bones to bodices when they aren't needed. Still it's worth it to me when I can get them for $1.99 or less on sale.
Your point about splitting the side bodice pieces into two allowing for a better fit is one I wish I had heard or thought of myself....a year ago! Not all things are for every person. Some people really love big ruffles on their sleeves-others not so much. Which is why we sew right? To make those choices. The video could have been more about the pattern rather than the designer of the pattern. I felt was a bit harsh. I like Angela. She does her research and creates beautiful things.
I don't think I ever talked down about Angela or her design. I was just talking about what I changed from her original pattern (which, let's be honest, McCall's probably made a lot of changes to as well).
It’s a cute pattern, but yeah I had a TON of modifications. Bust was a major change, the boning is a poor design for anyone with a bust of substance. The sleeves were completely changed. And yup, flat lining. I’m pretty sure I did something different to the skirts because the gathering was not looking right.
I love victorian dress but I really love civil war dress do you ever do civil war dressed
I've only ever done two dresses that would probably count as civil war era. If you go back in my videos to Sept, there's a video about a purple cotton calico one that I attempted to do in a day.
Did you make the dress you’re wearing in this video? Not the costume obviously you made that. It’s super cute and would love to know what pattern you used?
Thank you! I actually didn't make it - it was a nice find from eshakti a few months ago!
@@LadyRebeccaFashions rats, I love it too and came to ask the very same question!! If you ever come across a similar pattern, please let us know!!
Very pretty dress. I couldn't help but notice you said the capelet was closed with 5 silver buttons but there are only 4 showing. Am I missing something?
Thanks! There's 4 - I misspoke!
I have to wear short sleeves. I'm hot in 30 degree weather, most of the time when I was pregnant I was cold all the time. I'm actually making this as my first historical dress sewing project. I have another McCalls patter for a "Modern" dress because I want to see how much I really need to add to make the dress fit. I'll still do a mock up of the top part to make it work, but right now I'd have to go up 3 sizes to the pattern. I figure if I do the modern dress pattern first sizing up 3 I can see how much I need to size up for the historic dress.
For the sleeves, did you use a basic puff sleeve pattern then add the ruffle? Or did you do something else?
Did you add any panels for the skirt to make it fit the top or did you just do fewer cartridge pleats?
I was wondering about the boning in the front, if it's there to make it look like you're wearing a corset under the dress instead of a modern bra. I could be off base. But I'm also kind of glad not to do it because boning still scares me. I'm saving for a corset from early Victorian that I can use with a little padding here and there to work for multiple time periods.
I did a basic fitted sleeve, and added the ruffles. And I found that three widths of the fabric cartridge pleated up just fine to my waist size.
Just fyi, every pattern is different, even within the same company, and even if the size chart puts you as the same pattern size, so making a modern McCall's pattern won't really give you much to go off of for making this pattern.
What is the difference between flat lined and bag lined?
Flat lined is when each piece of lining is attached to each piece of outer fabric before the pieces are assembled to each other. Bag lining is when all the lining pieces are sewn to each other, and all the outer pieces are sewn to each other, and then the two layers are attached.
Did you know there's a retelling of LW set during WWII?
No, really? That's intriguing.
Hello question, at some point, could you talk about how to store costumes correctly?
I don't know that there's any correct/incorrect way to store your own costumes, but if you go back to early 2020 on my channel, I do have a video about how I store mine!
🇨🇦😃 beautiful