We have a 2001 limited rav 4 named wiggles . We had her since new and its 2014. She has 198777k rusty colorado miles shes a 5 speed with the locking diff, we love her so much she literally saved our lives so many times , we drove off the highway in to a ditch, ran over signs, and hit a couple cars all with no major repairs! We love wiggles, and are great full she isnt a money bucket so its always nice to see people who love there rav 4 as much as we do!
They are wonderful cars indeed :D, Betty is a bit sick at the moment, but her companion Bluey (2000 4dr) is my loyal and always reliable runabout at the moment. hard to beat a RAV!.
Aussie50 poor betty well I hope she gets running right soon. Ya nothing beats a rav4 I wish they would have made the new ones as reliAble as the ones we drive! Nothing will ever compare to our rav ever!
My Triumph Herald had half shafts on the diff, but the diff was bolted directly to the chassis along with the transverse suspension spring with 6 long bolts. Didn't get a lot of noise from being solid mounted.
Did you have to clean out dust before injecting the urethane? How long do you reckon this will last? Is it just for a few months until you can put in a new part or will it last years?
boat roller material. its really hard and resilient, but can be machined into shape on the lathe and then pressed , and usually has a hole in the middle already!
Exactly same diff and mounts in 00-05 RAV. Cleaned it well with white spirits, dried, filled with black urethane. Never went away, and became worst making it RWD by welding front box gears together. Not best design really.
Totally possible. I believe on the manual 4x4 models it's shared with the gear oil. www.rav4world.com/threads/2008-v6-4wd-front-and-rear-diff-oil-change-notes.299017/#post-2701875
Wow that was quite soft Ed, i know what you mean about absorbing the initial shock to save something breaking, washing machine suspension/dampers come to mind, make them solid and the bearings die very quickly. When you get the bits, a small tin of brush on hammerite is a thought for the rust breakout, perhaps? :-)
1l of spray on rubberising would probably be a better bet, protects from rust and stone chips as well if you drive on a dirt road. 2l will do the underside of the whole car with a thin coat.
SeanBZA Its quite hard to know sometimes, different countrys have favorite products, i tend to think of hammerite as its made to apply to rust. I said "swarfega hand cleaner" to some people and they say "Pardon?", so not all products are world wide. Hmm rubberising, its another thought for the pot :-))
zx8401ztv I find Hammerite a bit heavy. and in little cars, you can feel that weight. Having said that, on a honda forum I once frequented a chap did use a technique of sanding down and then using white non-speckly finish Hammerite paint behind his bumpers, and never had a rust problem. Just like arseholes, everyone has their own "way" of undersealing, mine has worked on all of my *ahem* classics. What I do is:- First liberaly paint on a "rust remedy". Then sanding off the black supposed "good metal" it leaves behind. 2 liberal coats of waxoyl on the chassis (and a thinner waxoyl penetrating liquid, through the box sections), and 3 under the wings. As always it comes down to preperation, if any trace of rust is left, all you are doing is sealing it in.
Dylan Greene Boiled linseed oil also works, though it tends to drip for a while. Did this on my van, and it kept the rust from advancing for the 10 years I had it, even though it regularly went swimming to launch my boat. 2l with a spray gun in all the holes in the chassis, along with a light coat on the underside and generous application in all the inside panels. Had to leave cardboard boxes under the car in the garage for a month until it all dripped out. Smoked the first 2 days where I got it on the exhaust. This in the rust capital of the world.
Dylan Greene Ha ha "ahem classics" :-)) hey if you get the desired result then that is the correct way :-)) I suppose the "ideal way" lol would be to remove the rust and heat the metal utill bone dry, then get it covered really quickly to keep the evil damp+air away from the surface, its not allways possible :-((
I can use another sika product? or you use the video sikaflex 11FC is the most appropriate for stuffing?In advance thank you very much for your videos saw almost all referred to the RAV4. the problem is the lenguage you have to use a translator to undertand and I also imagine some things jajajaj greetings from Bolivia
Well at some point the differential(s) will need a good grease added to the core components, other wise they wear out faster if they never been greased. It's hard to get into tight places under any car, but the main thing is you got it fixed aussie50 good video.
your video's are very helpful, actually gives me ideas and things to look out for on these older rav4's. i have this very annoying rear tailgate rattle tho (its missing the dampner thing on the tailgate)
I loved your video man. it is so so helpful. Well it seems all the people I know who own this car have the exact same problem. will try it out... cheers..
it made a difference, the shudder never really went away, but with some better clutch discipline I can make it almost never shudder. its just the issue with the SWB driveline, pretty stout, and they tried to make it as smooth as possible by using soft mounts. solid mounts would be ideal, but you would get a lot more noise and vibration in the cab.
Two things this video shows. 1, what you set out to see, if your diff was having a dance party. 2. Your RAV is unable to do burnouts by stamping on the breaks and pounding the pedal XD
Yeah Im just going to fill in the rear and front diff mounts with this. With certain things unless you have the money and the time it is wiser to do these kinds of fixes. Have a 97 Rav 4dr 5spd btw thanks for the vid Aussie
I did the same thing to my cheap race (hillclimb, super sprint) car (Suzuki swift GTI) engine mounts.. Made a big difference. Also not as harsh as full nolthane type bushes,
me sirvio mucho el video donde limpias la valvula IAC, puesto que no tengo casi nada de conocimientos de mecanica pero gracias a tus videos logre mejorar mi coche y cada ves aprendo mas de estos buenos carros RAV4 que al mio le falta un poco de cariño nada mas, espero que puedas ayudarme con algunas dudas que tengo, y si en tus proximos videos referentes al RAV4 haces las explicaciones por escrito me ayudaria muchogracias
2010V6RAV4 Its been fine ever since, lasts thousands of KM's if you do it right wash the mount out with carburettor cleaner to make it stick to the rubber tho., if its full of mud and dust the Sikaflex will come out in chunks later on.
it's worth removing them, cutting out the rubber then using a hacksaw cut through the steel ring. Knock it out with a hammer and screwdriver and pop in a Nolathane bushing, problem solved.
That car is rusty? HA! Come to the North East of USA. Then take a look at what rust is. The road salt absolutely eats and destroys cars. Its not good stuff. That thing rusted MUCH less than our 2007 Suburban. Especially the rear end, if you have to get under the you get rained on by dirt falling and rust flakes falling off. Its not cool...
hehehe Different concepts of rust. I used to complain about rust while living in South Europe, warm and dry... Then I saw the North, with ice, snow and SALT. Well I never moan about the "rust" down there anymore. LOL :-) Learned all the techniques to remove rusted bolts and NEVER skip using anti seize anymore. :-) Next door neighbor lost a Honda CRV. The strut support simply rusted out and the entire wheel fell off... Well kind of typical in here. Cheers from Norway. :-)
ha rust, try servicing cars that are used in mining, they are to be washed everytime to prevent cross contamination between mine job sites, they are only allowed to use Bore water to wash down the vehicle!!, That stuff is 5 times saltier than sea water!!!!!, a 2 year old car would look like this underneath!!!!!
I really don't get why they made this type of bushing if they knew it fails so fast. I've yet to see a hole type bushing that works properly/time. And in know they tested these a lot, you don't make a part unless you test the living shingles out of it. So must of had known it's prone to destructive failure (i'm referring to the damage the whole assembly receives over time and once the bushing fails completely). The guy i know that own a RAV had his bushing cast holders crack because the bushing failed. It's so annoying when manufacturers cut $ from a place and focus a lot in others because of company pride like tire testing (leave that to the tire manufacturers, but nooo, company X has to test your bushing design's worth on confirming already known facts) Meh, angry rant no. XXXXX
***** -My point is that system always fails. There's other concepts that could work better. -On my bike i have 2 bi-material shocks rubber installed. One is soft, one is hard. It's way better than the spring or oil equivalent. -That's because they don't understand that you change other parts for a softer ride. -But you can compromise. Urethane with softer suspension bits. At least i think that way. Also depends on the pocket, forking for a fully adjustable suspension isn't everyone's cup.
I think you don't understand how outdated the technology is. What i'm saying is that a bushing that combines both methods is superior and is in use today. Why the hell is that so freaking hard to understand? I don't know. People like to talk about things i suppose. As an architect i've learned one thing that stands above all else. And that is, that an element no matter how outstanding in it's abilities, qualities etc will be no match to the properties of a combination. It's the "take all strengths and leave all weaknesses" motto that they use in air craft industry. All the components that deal with stress and constant movement inside a plane are made by that philosophy. Oh yeah and just so i can have the last word (mad cackle) in the more advanced areas of car design there's this thing called dual rubber bushing. It's exactly what i'm saying. Using two types of material to achieve greater performance overall. As a side note personally i believe 99% of the time the "rattle" issues come from owners not changing the bushings when they should. I mean with the glaring exception of cars that are really hard on the spine all new cars you drive seem ok and because you drive them all the time you don't notice how bad the suspension gets until you hit that one pot hole that before when the system was new it wouldn't of had mattered much but now gets you a date with your chiropractor. That and manufacturers ignoring how many cycles can the product take. I know a few cases of cars that were recalled because the manufacturer "discovered" that pressure lines were exploding after 1 year of use causing fires in the engine bay. I wonder how you discover something like that after years of testing provided by the hose manufacturer on a nice piece of paper called a data sheet. Trust me, car manufacturers screw people around as much as they can and can get away with. They wouldn't make profit if they didn't. So to me the idea that this bushing is a complete bullshit is not so illogical. It's probably just how i was trained to think, after all in my line of work if i screw someone over my signature gets me in deep shit because of it.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
We have a 2001 limited rav 4 named wiggles . We had her since new and its 2014. She has 198777k rusty colorado miles shes a 5 speed with the locking diff, we love her so much she literally saved our lives so many times , we drove off the highway in to a ditch, ran over signs, and hit a couple cars all with no major repairs! We love wiggles, and are great full she isnt a money bucket so its always nice to see people who love there rav 4 as much as we do!
They are wonderful cars indeed :D, Betty is a bit sick at the moment, but her companion Bluey (2000 4dr) is my loyal and always reliable runabout at the moment. hard to beat a RAV!.
Aussie50 poor betty well I hope she gets running right soon. Ya nothing beats a rav4 I wish they would have made the new ones as reliAble as the ones we drive! Nothing will ever compare to our rav ever!
My Triumph Herald had half shafts on the diff, but the diff was bolted directly to the chassis along with the transverse suspension spring with 6 long bolts.
Didn't get a lot of noise from being solid mounted.
Would polyurethane construction adhesive work?
Did you have to clean out dust before injecting the urethane? How long do you reckon this will last? Is it just for a few months until you can put in a new part or will it last years?
I had a rav4 in New Zealand. Moved to South Africa and bought one here she needed some TCL but we love the old girl .
I just got a 95 two door one ! instant love !
@@dracy7024 me too!
boat roller material. its really hard and resilient, but can be machined into shape on the lathe and then pressed , and usually has a hole in the middle already!
yep, thats the other option, I can get it locally and machine up some bushes as a more permanent fix. not yet tho
can u show me the complete picture of a rav 4 diff
they do this to engine mounts to stiffen it so you dont have turbo piping ripping and popping off etc
on a different topic have you been able to use an obd to scanner on the diagnotic port in the engine bay ?
Would also like to know. My OBD port is super rusty. Don't want to buy scanner if it's a lost cause.
Where would we be with out cheap fixes!!
My only regret for living in such a snowy region is that I will never have a car that old with an undercarriage that clean...
Exactly same diff and mounts in 00-05 RAV. Cleaned it well with white spirits, dried, filled with black urethane. Never went away, and became worst making it RWD by welding front box gears together. Not best design really.
have you thought of installing a poly bush kit in
Betty?
nah, a full bush kit would be too harsh, she's bad enough as it is :p. but the driveline backlash is somthing I want to minimize
Hi, I hope you can help me out with this: have you ever change the front diff oil? Is that accessible? Cheers mate!
Totally possible. I believe on the manual 4x4 models it's shared with the gear oil.
www.rav4world.com/threads/2008-v6-4wd-front-and-rear-diff-oil-change-notes.299017/#post-2701875
@@chrysincognitio3751 what about the automatic one, which is my case. (1998)
@@4WLEX No idea sorry. Try searching or asking on rav4world.com
@@chrysincognitio3751 thanks for your help. I’ll try ask in the link👍👍👍👍👍
3M™ Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive works better and more stable in heat
Wow that was quite soft Ed, i know what you mean about absorbing the initial shock to save something breaking, washing machine suspension/dampers come to mind, make them solid and the bearings die very quickly.
When you get the bits, a small tin of brush on hammerite is a thought for the rust breakout, perhaps? :-)
1l of spray on rubberising would probably be a better bet, protects from rust and stone chips as well if you drive on a dirt road. 2l will do the underside of the whole car with a thin coat.
SeanBZA
Its quite hard to know sometimes, different countrys have favorite products, i tend to think of hammerite as its made to apply to rust.
I said "swarfega hand cleaner" to some people and they say "Pardon?", so not all products are world wide.
Hmm rubberising, its another thought for the pot :-))
zx8401ztv
I find Hammerite a bit heavy. and in little cars, you can feel that weight. Having said that, on a honda forum I once frequented a chap did use a technique of sanding down and then using white non-speckly finish Hammerite paint behind his bumpers, and never had a rust problem.
Just like arseholes, everyone has their own "way" of undersealing, mine has worked on all of my *ahem* classics. What I do is:-
First liberaly paint on a "rust remedy". Then sanding off the black supposed "good metal" it leaves behind. 2 liberal coats of waxoyl on the chassis (and a thinner waxoyl penetrating liquid, through the box sections), and 3 under the wings. As always it comes down to preperation, if any trace of rust is left, all you are doing is sealing it in.
Dylan Greene
Boiled linseed oil also works, though it tends to drip for a while. Did this on my van, and it kept the rust from advancing for the 10 years I had it, even though it regularly went swimming to launch my boat. 2l with a spray gun in all the holes in the chassis, along with a light coat on the underside and generous application in all the inside panels. Had to leave cardboard boxes under the car in the garage for a month until it all dripped out. Smoked the first 2 days where I got it on the exhaust. This in the rust capital of the world.
Dylan Greene
Ha ha "ahem classics" :-))
hey if you get the desired result then that is the correct way :-))
I suppose the "ideal way" lol would be to remove the rust and heat the metal utill bone dry, then get it covered really quickly to keep the evil damp+air away from the surface, its not allways possible :-((
I can use another sika product? or you use the video sikaflex 11FC is the most appropriate for stuffing?In advance thank you very much for your videos saw almost all referred to the RAV4. the problem is the lenguage you have to use a translator to undertand and I also imagine some things jajajaj greetings from Bolivia
+Micky Roland You should be able to use any equivalent urethane sealant, as long as it bonds to the rubber pretty good it will stay in there.
Well at some point the differential(s) will need a good grease added to the core components, other wise they wear out faster if they never been greased. It's hard to get into tight places under any car, but the main thing is you got it fixed aussie50 good video.
hi does the 94 model has a air bin filter ?
No, it doesn't! Started on the 4.2 model...
your video's are very helpful, actually gives me ideas and things to look out for on these older rav4's. i have this very annoying rear tailgate rattle tho (its missing the dampner thing on the tailgate)
I loved your video man. it is so so helpful. Well it seems all the people I know who own this car have the exact same problem. will try it out... cheers..
it made a difference, the shudder never really went away, but with some better clutch discipline I can make it almost never shudder. its just the issue with the SWB driveline, pretty stout, and they tried to make it as smooth as possible by using soft mounts. solid mounts would be ideal, but you would get a lot more noise and vibration in the cab.
Two things this video shows. 1, what you set out to see, if your diff was having a dance party. 2. Your RAV is unable to do burnouts by stamping on the breaks and pounding the pedal XD
lol, she could spin them up in the dirt, i was only at idle speeds when I did the test ;)
SlickNicklol como traducir estoy interesado saber lo que escriben
Aussie50 Did you remove the bushes then put in the sealant? Or did you put it in while they were on the car?
Yeah Im just going to fill in the rear and front diff mounts with this. With certain things unless you have the money and the time it is wiser to do these kinds of fixes.
Have a 97 Rav 4dr 5spd btw thanks for the vid Aussie
I did the same thing to my cheap race (hillclimb, super sprint) car (Suzuki swift GTI) engine mounts.. Made a big difference. Also not as harsh as full nolthane type bushes,
me sirvio mucho el video donde limpias la valvula IAC, puesto que no tengo casi nada de conocimientos de mecanica pero gracias a tus videos logre mejorar mi coche y cada ves aprendo mas de estos buenos carros RAV4 que al mio le falta un poco de cariño nada mas, espero que puedas ayudarme con algunas dudas que tengo, y si en tus proximos videos referentes al RAV4 haces las explicaciones por escrito me ayudaria muchogracias
Sika-splooge, that shit is stronger than the nails that held Jesus to the cross
LOL, best description for Sikaflex ever :D
it really is great stuff!
Aussie50 ho long has this stuff worked for you? I have a lot of movement in my V6 model. Its quite noticeable actually. Thanks
2010V6RAV4 How, not ho. Sorry
2010V6RAV4 Its been fine ever since, lasts thousands of KM's if you do it right
wash the mount out with carburettor cleaner to make it stick to the rubber tho., if its full of mud and dust the Sikaflex will come out in chunks later on.
Aussie50 thanks so much!
it's worth removing them, cutting out the rubber then using a hacksaw cut through the steel ring. Knock it out with a hammer and screwdriver and pop in a Nolathane bushing, problem solved.
That car is rusty? HA! Come to the North East of USA. Then take a look at what rust is. The road salt absolutely eats and destroys cars. Its not good stuff. That thing rusted MUCH less than our 2007 Suburban. Especially the rear end, if you have to get under the you get rained on by dirt falling and rust flakes falling off. Its not cool...
Bostik seal and flex half the price, same stuff
that fix was fast.
Rusty as hell? I don't see any rust there :) In New York our cars aren't rusty, they're rotted and replacing brake lines isn't fun...
You should come to England were all the cars are a pile of rust within 24 hours :)
NotSoProHydra
In canada, rust goes though 5 mm thick metal braces and brackets. Seats drops as floor roots and opens along the sills.
hehehe Different concepts of rust. I used to complain about rust while living in South Europe, warm and dry... Then I saw the North, with ice, snow and SALT.
Well I never moan about the "rust" down there anymore. LOL :-)
Learned all the techniques to remove rusted bolts and NEVER skip using anti seize anymore. :-) Next door neighbor lost a Honda CRV. The strut support simply rusted out and the entire wheel fell off... Well kind of typical in here. Cheers from Norway. :-)
ha rust, try servicing cars that are used in mining, they are to be washed everytime to prevent cross contamination between mine job sites, they are only allowed to use Bore water to wash down the vehicle!!, That stuff is 5 times saltier than sea water!!!!!, a 2 year old car would look like this underneath!!!!!
You are not wrong there, i had a mate pick up a cheap near new ex mine truck at auction, within five years it literally fell apart.
I really don't get why they made this type of bushing if they knew it fails so fast. I've yet to see a hole type bushing that works properly/time.
And in know they tested these a lot, you don't make a part unless you test the living shingles out of it. So must of had known it's prone to destructive failure (i'm referring to the damage the whole assembly receives over time and once the bushing fails completely).
The guy i know that own a RAV had his bushing cast holders crack because the bushing failed. It's so annoying when manufacturers cut $ from a place and focus a lot in others because of company pride like tire testing (leave that to the tire manufacturers, but nooo, company X has to test your bushing design's worth on confirming already known facts)
Meh, angry rant no. XXXXX
*****
-My point is that system always fails. There's other concepts that could work better.
-On my bike i have 2 bi-material shocks rubber installed. One is soft, one is hard. It's way better than the spring or oil equivalent.
-That's because they don't understand that you change other parts for a softer ride.
-But you can compromise. Urethane with softer suspension bits. At least i think that way. Also depends on the pocket, forking for a fully adjustable suspension isn't everyone's cup.
I think you don't understand how outdated the technology is. What i'm saying is that a bushing that combines both methods is superior and is in use today.
Why the hell is that so freaking hard to understand? I don't know. People like to talk about things i suppose.
As an architect i've learned one thing that stands above all else. And that is, that an element no matter how outstanding in it's abilities, qualities etc will be no match to the properties of a combination. It's the "take all strengths and leave all weaknesses" motto that they use in air craft industry. All the components that deal with stress and constant movement inside a plane are made by that philosophy.
Oh yeah and just so i can have the last word (mad cackle) in the more advanced areas of car design there's this thing called dual rubber bushing. It's exactly what i'm saying. Using two types of material to achieve greater performance overall.
As a side note personally i believe 99% of the time the "rattle" issues come from owners not changing the bushings when they should. I mean with the glaring exception of cars that are really hard on the spine all new cars you drive seem ok and because you drive them all the time you don't notice how bad the suspension gets until you hit that one pot hole that before when the system was new it wouldn't of had mattered much but now gets you a date with your chiropractor.
That and manufacturers ignoring how many cycles can the product take. I know a few cases of cars that were recalled because the manufacturer "discovered" that pressure lines were exploding after 1 year of use causing fires in the engine bay. I wonder how you discover something like that after years of testing provided by the hose manufacturer on a nice piece of paper called a data sheet. Trust me, car manufacturers screw people around as much as they can and can get away with. They wouldn't make profit if they didn't.
So to me the idea that this bushing is a complete bullshit is not so illogical. It's probably just how i was trained to think, after all in my line of work if i screw someone over my signature gets me in deep shit because of it.
very good
nice fix :) Consider this idea stolen!
Dye
Tyede