I got my 150L horizontal tank shop compressor new over 25 years ago, but one day about 8 or 9 years back I realised that the drain valve wasn't selling properly. A bit of digging later I realised that it had some flakes of rust on the valve seat. I immediately depressurised it and started popping off bungs and adapters to see how bad it was, and from as many angles as possible. In all honesty, it looked no worse than yours, so I put it back into service, but it still had me a bit nervous. I'd heard all the horror stories of compressor tanks taking brick walls out when they let go, and my home workshop isn't that big (when I'm in my workshop, I'm never really more than 3 metres away from the compressor), so it felt a bit like I was sharing a room with an unexploded bomb ! I decided I needed to sort the internal rust out, so I stripped everything off the tank, 1/4 filled it with a rust desolving chemical called "Deox-C", then every couple days I moved that ridiculously heavy lump into a new position to make sure every surface had spent at least a couple days submerged. After that rinsed it out, took out the bungs, and ran an electric heat gun through it until the whole tank was nice and warm (and dry). Not wanting a reoccurrence, I dumped about a litre of a rust converter called "Hydrate-80" in there, and rolled that damn tank around for about 20 minutes to make sure all the flash rust had been treated. I emptied the last of that out and left the tank open for a couple of weeks (I had my smaller compressor plumbed in by then, and too be honest, I was getting sick of messing about with this bleading great tank. 😣). During that time I decided that for peace of mind, I really needed to pressure test the tank while I had it bare, so I bought a few fittings to connect it to my pressure washer, took the tank down the garden, and strapped it to a tree with every ratchet strap I owned (Logically, I knew it SHOULDN'T explode with any real force, but phycological, the whole process scared me senseless, so I wasn't taking any chances. 🙄). I took it up to 250psi and left it for an hour. The pressure dropped to nothing during that time, but I found it was just a bung not making a perfect seal, so I resealed that, topped up the water again, re-pressurised it, and left it for a couple hours that time. When I went back to it, everything was still fine ! After emptying it and dragging it back into my home workshop, I did the hot air gun drying routine again, and reassembled it. Job done. As I said, I did all this sometime in mid 2014 or 2015, and it's only recently that I've started seeing an ever so slightly rusty hue to the water when I drain it, so I'll probably need to do the rust converter part again at some point....... I'm just not looking forwards to the job. 🙄
@@robertdeptula2003 As I said, It didn't have any heavy rust inside it when I did the tank clean up and pressure test 8 or 9 years ago, and after the rust removal I couldn't even see any patches of pitting. it's also only recently started showing a slightly murky colour to the drain water. Just to be sure, I really do need to pop out the end bungs at some point to get a good look in there, but as far as I see it, there's nothing to indicate there's anything particularly bad going on yet. Once the weather warms up a bit I'll get on it (So later this year). At the minute it's just above freezing outside, so I'm not likely to start anything that needs me to use my compressor for a couple of months anyway.
@@Reman1975 The problem is, you don’t know how thin the tank wall is, at its thinnest point. With the cycling of pressure, minute cracks can develop, and once they propagate, it can happen rapidly. You won’t necessarily know until the thing explodes.
Excellent video. Well-done! This is something that a lot of people could do themselves. The only thing I would suggest, would be to provide a link to the pressure washer fitting, to help people find the correct fitting to test their compressor.
Thank you for your kind words. As for the fitting, different compressors will require different fittings. I went to a big box home improvement store, to pressure washers section and picked the right one for my compressor.
Wonderful video. I recently bought two used compressors and have gone down a compressor-safety rabbit hole. I always assumed a breached tank would just bleed out slowly, but apparently not the case! Glad I learned this and thank you for helping to spread some useful knowledge about the risks and how to safely test and maintain a tank. One item of partial disagreement: the conventional wisdom that things used to be built better really isn't true in my experience. You just have to go to a thrift store and look at all the junky old furniture, gadgets, and yes, tools, from decades ago to know this. I think the reality is complicated in that every manufacturer has two competing motivations: to produce cheaply, but also to maintain a reputation for quality. So you have a lot of complicated dynamics where certain parts or items are cheapened, while others are improved, and quality really has to be assessed on a much more nuanced basis.
For the first part of your comment: thank you and you are welcome. For the second part: I have four old Volvos (presented on my chanel), excellent cars still running. Many times it is better to replace some parts from "U-PULL" than to buy new, even at dealership.
@@robertdeptula2003 Yes, I understand. I've had similar old cars, and sometimes components are incrementally cheapened even during continuous production, no doubt that is true.
@@robertdeptula2003 Comrade, old Volvos are unicorns in a class of vintage quality by themselves. They are like tanks that given the right mods and a decent road could climb Mt. Everest. I used to own an '82 242 GT coupe. Regardless, I fully agree that any time you can rebuild an OEM part, it's best to do that.
Interesting point about survivor bias-we mostly get exposed to the old things which lasted not the old junk that was abused and trashed and didn’t make it. A thrift store used to demonstrate a wider sampling of old goods is an interesting idea.
Prior to starting the hydrostatic test you should take a few measurements on the tanks diameter; when they test scuba tanks they de rate the scuba tank after testing if it expanded more than "___:" tolerance. That is called "deformation. I doubt you would have any at these preasures, but if you did that would be a area off concern. I used to do numerous hydrostatic tests for the US Navy and the 150% of operating preasure is correct. Along with no leaking is No Deformation.
The purpose of a HYDRO TEST is to safely measure how much the tank volume increases due to internal pressure. Water is used instead of air because water is virtually incompressible and therefore doesn't become a half million pounds of additive inches of pressure squarely looking for a way out of its curvy prison. This Hydro Test can be done by measuring the circumference of the tank both before and after pressurizing. Another method is to submerge the depressurized tank in a Big Ass... Beaker that's big enough to completely submerge the tank and have an unbroken water surface that can be marked for height of water both before and after the pressure. A few calculations to determine expansion volume percentage or whatever is popular. The tank itself is filled completely with water and set in Beaker. The water level of Big Ass Beaker is recorded at atmospheric pressure. The tank is pressurized by pumping in additional water to the pressure established for the particular tank. The Big As Beaker water volume wil be checked and a calculation will be done to adjust for variables like tank shape etc. No proofreading time but, I'll be back. Hope this makes sense, I was under a lot of covers hoping for a little sleep. This is the 8th day with only 3 hours on day 6 of actual sleep on the books. How this helps.
I have seen individuals modify the drain valve. It is always at the lowest position in the tank and very awkward to get to. Purchase a short nipple and a 90° sold brass elbow and a section of brass pipe that will allow the valve to be reachable from an easier location on the tank. You will need a brass coupling to re attach the drain valve to the drain pipe. One might also replace the cheap valve that always tends to seize up with a more appropriate lever style valve with that "big red handle". Makes draining a breeze.
I still use a compressor tank thats dated 1984…. Still thick and passed a 300 psi hydro test.. old booger.. has at least 5 layers of different color paint on it.. started out army green as it was at some military base.. guess is why its so thick..
Me and my friend stumbled on a tank made in the 50s. 3/8 thick steel, with the end cap on top . At the welds, a solid 3/4 of steel. We found out because we cut it and modified it into a sandblast pot
Very well explained video, best one on the subject I’ve seen. I am also looking for the straight thread port plug with gasket for my tank. I am in Canada too, where did you find yours? The best I have so far is a pipe thread one, which seems to still work with lots of tape and sealant.
@@robertdeptula2003 wow, amazing you found that with no description. Unfortunately my opening is 1-1/2, and princess auto doesn’t stock the 512-0038. I’ll give the one I have a try. If it passes the hydro test I’ll consider it good enough.
Have you ever owned compressor ? Do you know anything about welding ? Or are you just repeating what you have read ? You can welding/ repair a tank if you know what your doing, myself I'd go with a new tank or new compressor, but a skilled welder can safely repair one
@@ericschulze5641 I have owned a few, and have six currently. It’s not about how good of a job you can do, welding. It alters the heat treatment of the tank, and creates weak spots near the weld. They tend to crack near those welds.
@patrickflohe7427 maybe I'm spoiled because we have a boiler works and other major fabrication shops in my town and I'm referring to welders of that caliber
@@ericschulze5641 I understand there are excellent quality welders out there, but it’s more about what it does to the metal. When it changes the heat treat in certain areas, and that’s bound to happen, it creates stress concentrations, and cracks. Those can lead to explosive failures of the tank.
I just got a 2005 60gal qts5 Quincy from my Uncle. I had suspicions that be never drained it when he stored it 5 years ago. Turns out he didn’t. Inside bottom is very badly rusted. I haven’t filled it yet and honestly think it’s compromised now. Sadly.
I have a 21 gallon air compressor. I did not know about doing this kind of test for leaks. I do always let all the air out after I an done using the compressor though and let the pressure out with each use.
It is good that you drain it. Is your compressor standing upright or is it horizontal? Those standing upright drain water well, those horizontal, if slightly tilted, may not drain well.
At Wikipedia: "The test pressure is always considerably higher than the operating pressure to give a factor of safety. This factor of safety is typically 166.66%, 143% or 150% of the designed working pressure, depending on the regulations that apply. (...) Water is commonly used because it is cheap and easily available, and is usually harmless to the system to be tested. (...) fluids are nearly incompressible, therefore requiring relatively little work to develop a high pressure, and is therefore also only able to release a small amount of energy in case of a failure - only a small volume will escape under high pressure if the container fails. If high pressure gas were used, then the gas would expand to V=(nRT)/p with its compressed volume resulting in an explosion, with the attendant risk of damage or injury."
@@robertdeptula2003 ok thanks I have a 1998 ProAir 80 gallon tank that I'm just about ready to run after sitting 4 years. The tank was rated at 200 PSI with an operating pressure of 175 PSI.
Nice video thanks I have a Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon compressor 15 years old use it like 20 times and I always drain it when I finished. I always leave the drain open until my next use. Any idea what you think inside looks like?
My official response to your question is: follow the industry standards in your place of residence/business. It is always better to be safe than sorry, but I would not expect significant tank rusting in such a occasional use.
You can use the same gauge from the compressor as long as it reads at least 150% of tested compressor working pressure. I used another gauge since I have one.
Hi, My 60 gallon tank seems to be leaking at the bottom piece where the drain valve screws into. I thought it was the drain valve at first, but have tried quite a few different ones. Can that piece at the bottom be replaced? It's made like that piece that you took off the side of yours?
I don't know what tank you have, but as you can see on my video the bottom plug can be replaced the same way I changed mine on the side. But it can be rusty and very difficult to unscrew. Look for "bushing" as the replacement part. In my case the bottom bushing is 2 inch straight thread and 3/8 inch pipe thread. Good luck!
thanks grate video, how to stop rust inside your tank dry inside of tank pour chemicals inside the tank to convert the rust into ferric oxide then pour into tank linseed oil let dry then your tank will be rust free for good. and no need to test the tank anymore.
My pressure washer gun sticks on once you pull the trigger. It will not release until you stop the engine and the pressure slowly drains down. It would immediately try to put over 2000 PSI into the tank. CAUTION if anyone has a similar defective pressure washer. STAND CLEAR of the TANK when testing. If it does fail, It should not be a big explosion with water in the tank but it might spew little pieces of shrapnel from weak areas. PROTECT YOUR EYES is the main thing.
@@robertdeptula2003 I don't know the design. But I have tried two different ones and both of them do that. It's like the pressue builds up when you pull the trigger and becomes too powerful to be able to close the valve when you release the trigger.
Compressed water doesn't hold as much energy as compressed air does. When it fails the water will spray and the pressure will drop fast. When it fails with compressed air in the tank it goes kaboom like a bomb. Links to exploded compressor tanks in the description of the video.
Maybe someone with a known decrepit tank that they're planning to retire can run this test to completion. I'd suggest it to Project Farm. 😉 Surely a 3100 psi pressure washer could make it happen. If it doesn't, then make it a job for Hydraulic Press Channel, who would definitely make it happen 🙃
Why not after every use drain the tank and leave the drain cock opened until next use, that way it'll air dry inside and all water will evaporate leaving no rust. Another thing, why not paint the inside of these tanks?
Yeh, one should drain the tank everyday (if used), but it is still exposed to the moisture. Nobody keeps his car in a swimming pool, but it still rusting.
@@robertdeptula2003 Not only that but stainless has its issues too, as in they may be harder to weld without weakening the structure meaning they are not better. I mean they can probably galvanize it but you can't weld galvanized steel at all, and even then the rust protection from galvanizing doesn't last forever. I mean probably sticking sacrificial anode onto the tank might be a good idea to stop rusting... Maybe if you are buying used compressor it's not a bad idea to replace the tank.
@@victorjay9586 Aluminum has issues too, like poor fatigue life... also Aluminum is harder to weld (well not really, with the right equipment it can be done). Like some airplanes explode because of fatigue life and all that (not to mention airframes have to be checked after x hours of flight, and surely this is not done with air compressors).
I dont believe everything used to be built good, i think its purely survivorship bias, everything that was built good is still around, but everything what was built good enough has long since failed
I think it would be a good idea. If you knew what you were talking about before you posted a video like this tanks do not explode due to corrosion only due to overpressurization only
I think your correct, 125 - 150 psi rupturing a tank should only pop out the area where the rust is, not make the tank explode, I suspect every one of the videos where they have exploded, are because they have modified the pressure switch, and modified or bypassed to blowoff valve, yes ?
@@ericschulze5641 it’s not that they have modified the pressure switch in any manner in most cases, the cheap pressure switch and relief valve fail simultaneously. The contacts on the pressure switch weld themselves closed. At this point the compressor will not shut off if the relief does not open, the tank will explode quite simply.
Наука
"Today, everything is built to be good enough". That is facts!!
Absolutely crucial to know this stuff. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome
I got my 150L horizontal tank shop compressor new over 25 years ago, but one day about 8 or 9 years back I realised that the drain valve wasn't selling properly. A bit of digging later I realised that it had some flakes of rust on the valve seat. I immediately depressurised it and started popping off bungs and adapters to see how bad it was, and from as many angles as possible.
In all honesty, it looked no worse than yours, so I put it back into service, but it still had me a bit nervous. I'd heard all the horror stories of compressor tanks taking brick walls out when they let go, and my home workshop isn't that big (when I'm in my workshop, I'm never really more than 3 metres away from the compressor), so it felt a bit like I was sharing a room with an unexploded bomb !
I decided I needed to sort the internal rust out, so I stripped everything off the tank, 1/4 filled it with a rust desolving chemical called "Deox-C", then every couple days I moved that ridiculously heavy lump into a new position to make sure every surface had spent at least a couple days submerged. After that rinsed it out, took out the bungs, and ran an electric heat gun through it until the whole tank was nice and warm (and dry). Not wanting a reoccurrence, I dumped about a litre of a rust converter called "Hydrate-80" in there, and rolled that damn tank around for about 20 minutes to make sure all the flash rust had been treated. I emptied the last of that out and left the tank open for a couple of weeks (I had my smaller compressor plumbed in by then, and too be honest, I was getting sick of messing about with this bleading great tank. 😣).
During that time I decided that for peace of mind, I really needed to pressure test the tank while I had it bare, so I bought a few fittings to connect it to my pressure washer, took the tank down the garden, and strapped it to a tree with every ratchet strap I owned (Logically, I knew it SHOULDN'T explode with any real force, but phycological, the whole process scared me senseless, so I wasn't taking any chances. 🙄). I took it up to 250psi and left it for an hour. The pressure dropped to nothing during that time, but I found it was just a bung not making a perfect seal, so I resealed that, topped up the water again, re-pressurised it, and left it for a couple hours that time. When I went back to it, everything was still fine !
After emptying it and dragging it back into my home workshop, I did the hot air gun drying routine again, and reassembled it. Job done.
As I said, I did all this sometime in mid 2014 or 2015, and it's only recently that I've started seeing an ever so slightly rusty hue to the water when I drain it, so I'll probably need to do the rust converter part again at some point....... I'm just not looking forwards to the job. 🙄
Over 25 years old? Horizontal compressor? Scary. Test it or replace it. Better safe than sorry.
@@robertdeptula2003 As I said, It didn't have any heavy rust inside it when I did the tank clean up and pressure test 8 or 9 years ago, and after the rust removal I couldn't even see any patches of pitting. it's also only recently started showing a slightly murky colour to the drain water.
Just to be sure, I really do need to pop out the end bungs at some point to get a good look in there, but as far as I see it, there's nothing to indicate there's anything particularly bad going on yet. Once the weather warms up a bit I'll get on it (So later this year). At the minute it's just above freezing outside, so I'm not likely to start anything that needs me to use my compressor for a couple of months anyway.
@@Reman1975
The problem is, you don’t know how thin the tank wall is, at its thinnest point.
With the cycling of pressure, minute cracks can develop, and once they propagate, it can happen rapidly.
You won’t necessarily know until the thing explodes.
Great video mate I see all the time in videos of rusty disgusting air compressor tanks being repainted and restored but the inside of them comprised
Thanks!
always read the tag on the tank, it will tell you its age.
Excellent video.
Well-done!
This is something that a lot of people could do themselves.
The only thing I would suggest, would be to provide a link to the pressure washer fitting, to help people find the correct fitting to test their compressor.
Thank you for your kind words.
As for the fitting, different compressors will require different fittings. I went to a big box home improvement store, to pressure washers section and picked the right one for my compressor.
I think it would be good if the compressor tanks were coated on the inside with an epoxy paint to protect against rust.
The tank expands slightly under pressure. The question is: Is epoxy paint flexible enough? If not, it will crack and the tank will rust anyway.
Just buy a galvanized one, not a cheap ass carbon steel model...
@@robertdeptula2003 paint it with a flexible paint
Wonderful video. I recently bought two used compressors and have gone down a compressor-safety rabbit hole. I always assumed a breached tank would just bleed out slowly, but apparently not the case! Glad I learned this and thank you for helping to spread some useful knowledge about the risks and how to safely test and maintain a tank.
One item of partial disagreement: the conventional wisdom that things used to be built better really isn't true in my experience. You just have to go to a thrift store and look at all the junky old furniture, gadgets, and yes, tools, from decades ago to know this. I think the reality is complicated in that every manufacturer has two competing motivations: to produce cheaply, but also to maintain a reputation for quality. So you have a lot of complicated dynamics where certain parts or items are cheapened, while others are improved, and quality really has to be assessed on a much more nuanced basis.
For the first part of your comment: thank you and you are welcome.
For the second part: I have four old Volvos (presented on my chanel), excellent cars still running. Many times it is better to replace some parts from "U-PULL" than to buy new, even at dealership.
@@robertdeptula2003 Yes, I understand. I've had similar old cars, and sometimes components are incrementally cheapened even during continuous production, no doubt that is true.
@@robertdeptula2003 Comrade, old Volvos are unicorns in a class of vintage quality by themselves. They are like tanks that given the right mods and a decent road could climb Mt. Everest. I used to own an '82 242 GT coupe. Regardless, I fully agree that any time you can rebuild an OEM part, it's best to do that.
yes i thought the same, now i have 2 old tanks that i need to do this on.
Interesting point about survivor bias-we mostly get exposed to the old things which lasted not the old junk that was abused and trashed and didn’t make it. A thrift store used to demonstrate a wider sampling of old goods is an interesting idea.
Thanks sir, you teach us how to test the air compressor tank, Wonderful video!
Great video!! Very informative!! Thank you for sharing!!
You are so welcome!
Thankyou very much!! Just built my self a water powered air compressor and this is just the information I needed!
You are welcome.
Thank you for demonstrating the method.
You are welcome!
Great video!
Prior to starting the hydrostatic test you should take a few measurements on the tanks diameter; when they test scuba tanks they de rate the scuba tank after testing if it expanded more than "___:" tolerance. That is called "deformation. I doubt you would have any at these preasures, but if you did that would be a area off concern. I used to do numerous hydrostatic tests for the US Navy and the 150% of operating preasure is correct. Along with no leaking is No Deformation.
Excellent thank you for sharing
You are welcome
What a great video. I will be checking mine tomorrow.
Thank you.
How old is your compressor?
@@robertdeptula2003
Not sure. Maybe 8-9 yrs 👍👍
Great video thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Excellent video, Thank You!
You are welcome!
GREAT VIDEO!!!! Thank you for making it
You are welcome
Good info, thanks Comrade!
You are welcome.
The purpose of a HYDRO TEST is to safely measure how much the tank volume increases due to internal pressure. Water is used instead of air because water is virtually incompressible and therefore doesn't become a half million pounds of additive inches of pressure squarely looking for a way out of its curvy prison. This Hydro Test can be done by measuring the circumference of the tank both before and after pressurizing. Another method is to submerge the depressurized tank in a Big Ass... Beaker that's big enough to completely submerge the tank and have an unbroken water surface that can be marked for height of water both before and after the pressure. A few calculations to determine expansion volume percentage or whatever is popular. The tank itself is filled completely with water and set in Beaker. The water level of Big Ass Beaker is recorded at atmospheric pressure. The tank is pressurized by pumping in additional water to the pressure established for the particular tank. The Big As Beaker water volume wil be checked and a calculation will be done to adjust for variables like tank shape etc.
No proofreading time but, I'll be back.
Hope this makes sense, I was under a lot of covers hoping for a little sleep. This is the 8th day with only 3 hours on day 6 of actual sleep on the books.
How this helps.
Thank you, got a used tank, cobbled together, looks like a 1980s unit, going to do this.❤
You are welcome.
Very helpful video thank you very much, just what I needed.
You are welcome!
I have seen individuals modify the drain valve. It is always at the lowest position in the tank and very awkward to get to. Purchase a short nipple and a 90° sold brass elbow and a section of brass pipe that will allow the valve to be reachable from an easier location on the tank. You will need a brass coupling to re attach the drain valve to the drain pipe. One might also replace the cheap valve that always tends to seize up with a more appropriate lever style valve with that "big red handle". Makes draining a breeze.
You are a live saver. God bless
Thanks!
That one looks like it could be a candidate for a leftover SCUD missile.
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
I still use a compressor tank thats dated 1984…. Still thick and passed a 300 psi hydro test.. old booger.. has at least 5 layers of different color paint on it.. started out army green as it was at some military base.. guess is why its so thick..
Me and my friend stumbled on a tank made in the 50s. 3/8 thick steel, with the end cap on top . At the welds, a solid 3/4 of steel. We found out because we cut it and modified it into a sandblast pot
Thank you for doing this 😎😎😎👍
You are welcome
Thank's i want to test my old compressor but the pressure washer i think it's weak 135psi the tank is rated 120psi
Very well explained video, best one on the subject I’ve seen.
I am also looking for the straight thread port plug with gasket for my tank. I am in Canada too, where did you find yours?
The best I have so far is a pipe thread one, which seems to still work with lots of tape and sealant.
Bought mine at PrincessAuto. Bushing 512-0043
@@robertdeptula2003 wow, amazing you found that with no description.
Unfortunately my opening is 1-1/2, and princess auto doesn’t stock the 512-0038.
I’ll give the one I have a try. If it passes the hydro test I’ll consider it good enough.
Good luck!
Bore out your Straight Thread plug to size and thread you want.
thanks great vid!
Thanks and you are welcome.
great video man tanks
You are welcome
I forgot to mention before….if you have a damaged or rusty compressor, NEVER weld on or do other repairs on a compressor tank.
Have you ever owned compressor ? Do you know anything about welding ? Or are you just repeating what you have read ? You can welding/ repair a tank if you know what your doing, myself I'd go with a new tank or new compressor, but a skilled welder can safely repair one
@@ericschulze5641
I have owned a few, and have six currently.
It’s not about how good of a job you can do, welding.
It alters the heat treatment of the tank, and creates weak spots near the weld.
They tend to crack near those welds.
@patrickflohe7427 maybe I'm spoiled because we have a boiler works and other major fabrication shops in my town and I'm referring to welders of that caliber
@@ericschulze5641
I understand there are excellent quality welders out there, but it’s more about what it does to the metal.
When it changes the heat treat in certain areas, and that’s bound to happen, it creates stress concentrations, and cracks.
Those can lead to explosive failures of the tank.
@@patrickflohe7427 so there must be weak spots around the entire circumference of the end caps and main seam
*. YOU SOUND 100% LIKE THE "EXPLOSIVE" DOCTORs IN .. (U.S.MILL) MANY YEARS **#AGO** .*
*GOOD GOOD VIDEO*
Thanks!
Is there a company in Russia that makes a pressure Lubricated compressor pump?
I just got a 2005 60gal qts5 Quincy from my Uncle. I had suspicions that be never drained it when he stored it 5 years ago. Turns out he didn’t. Inside bottom is very badly rusted. I haven’t filled it yet and honestly think it’s compromised now. Sadly.
Do the test, use your judgement, stay safe!
I have a 21 gallon air compressor.
I did not know about doing this kind of test for leaks.
I do always let all the air out after I an done using the compressor though and let the pressure out with each use.
It is good that you drain it. Is your compressor standing upright or is it horizontal? Those standing upright drain water well, those horizontal, if slightly tilted, may not drain well.
@@robertdeptula2003 Yes the one I have is upright.
today i perform this at vizag steel plant India thankyou
You are welcome.
CORRECTION: "It can act as a big ass PIPE BOMB💥
Thanks for sharing! How do you arrive at your testing pressure?
Is 150% or 1.5 x the tanks rated operating pressure a set standard?
At Wikipedia: "The test pressure is always considerably higher than the operating pressure to give a factor of safety. This factor of safety is typically 166.66%, 143% or 150% of the designed working pressure, depending on the regulations that apply. (...) Water is commonly used because it is cheap and easily available, and is usually harmless to the system to be tested. (...) fluids are nearly incompressible, therefore requiring relatively little work to develop a high pressure, and is therefore also only able to release a small amount of energy in case of a failure - only a small volume will escape under high pressure if the container fails. If high pressure gas were used, then the gas would expand to V=(nRT)/p with its compressed volume resulting in an explosion, with the attendant risk of damage or injury."
@@robertdeptula2003 ok thanks I have a 1998 ProAir 80 gallon tank that I'm just about ready to run after sitting 4 years.
The tank was rated at 200 PSI with an operating pressure of 175 PSI.
@@RC-Heli835 Test at 300 psi.
Nice video thanks I have a Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon compressor 15 years old use it like 20 times and I always drain it when I finished. I always leave the drain open until my next use. Any idea what you think inside looks like?
My official response to your question is: follow the industry standards in your place of residence/business. It is always better to be safe than sorry, but I would not expect significant tank rusting in such a occasional use.
@@robertdeptula2003 Ok thank you so much.
Did you change the gauge for the test or is that the same one used normally by the compressor?
You can use the same gauge from the compressor as long as it reads at least 150% of tested compressor working pressure. I used another gauge since I have one.
I normally leave the air valves open after draining, on my 2 air compressors. That way the inside of the tank can dry out a bit more...
I’ve seen it recommend to close the valves once drained since humidity can get in there and rust it out..
@@Underwearscares Yes.
Except it's normally more humid on the INSIDE than on the OUTSIDE. 🤔
Maybe fogging it with a rust inhibitor on a periodic schedule would help extend the lifespan further.
@@dubmob151 great way to possibly ruin the inner coating and cause an explosion since the rust inhibitor can be flammable or combustible.
@@Underwearscares could be if it can be, no doubt, but is it and will it?
Hi,
My 60 gallon tank seems to be leaking at the bottom piece where the drain valve screws into. I thought it was the drain valve at first, but have tried quite a few different ones. Can that piece at the bottom be replaced? It's made like that piece that you took off the side of yours?
I don't know what tank you have, but as you can see on my video the bottom plug can be replaced the same way I changed mine on the side. But it can be rusty and very difficult to unscrew. Look for "bushing" as the replacement part. In my case the bottom bushing is 2 inch straight thread and 3/8 inch pipe thread. Good luck!
@@robertdeptula2003 Thanks. Mine is a Puma 60 gallon compressor. I'm going to get a bigger pipe wrench and see about getting it off
thanks grate video, how to stop rust inside your tank dry inside of tank pour chemicals inside the tank to convert the rust into ferric oxide then pour into tank linseed oil let dry then your tank will be rust free for good. and no need to test the tank anymore.
Thanks!
@@robertdeptula2003 advise is free
@@danvandertorre6349
Does it work, any problems with contamination of air from the oil for tools ?
@@gavin_hill yes
Which chemicals to convert rust to ferric oxide?
My pressure washer gun sticks on once you pull the trigger.
It will not release until you stop the engine and the pressure slowly drains down.
It would immediately try to put over 2000 PSI into the tank.
CAUTION if anyone has a similar defective pressure washer.
STAND CLEAR of the TANK when testing. If it does fail, It should not be a big explosion with water in the tank but it might spew little pieces of shrapnel from weak areas. PROTECT YOUR EYES is the main thing.
It is dangerous that you cannot control the gun. Is it like that by design?
@@robertdeptula2003
I don't know the design.
But I have tried two different ones and both of them do that.
It's like the pressue builds up when you pull the trigger and becomes too powerful to be able to close the valve when you release the trigger.
What happens if it fails? Does it not hold pressure or something?
Compressed water doesn't hold as much energy as compressed air does. When it fails the water will spray and the pressure will drop fast. When it fails with compressed air in the tank it goes kaboom like a bomb. Links to exploded compressor tanks in the description of the video.
@@robertdeptula2003 thankyou makes sense
You are welcome
Maybe someone with a known decrepit tank that they're planning to retire can run this test to completion. I'd suggest it to Project Farm. 😉
Surely a 3100 psi pressure washer could make it happen. If it doesn't, then make it a job for Hydraulic Press Channel, who would definitely make it happen 🙃
Why not after every use drain the tank and leave the drain cock opened until next use, that way it'll air dry inside and all water will evaporate leaving no rust. Another thing, why not paint the inside of these tanks?
Yeh, one should drain the tank everyday (if used), but it is still exposed to the moisture. Nobody keeps his car in a swimming pool, but it still rusting.
I always leave my drain cock open until next use and I use my Ingersoll Rand once a year have it like 15 years now so I guess it still in good shape.
lolzz amazing start. its not sunrise on mars
Thanks
i dont get wy tanks are not made from stainless
Money talks. Thick stainless tank will be too expensive.
@@robertdeptula2003 Not only that but stainless has its issues too, as in they may be harder to weld without weakening the structure meaning they are not better. I mean they can probably galvanize it but you can't weld galvanized steel at all, and even then the rust protection from galvanizing doesn't last forever. I mean probably sticking sacrificial anode onto the tank might be a good idea to stop rusting... Maybe if you are buying used compressor it's not a bad idea to replace the tank.
There’s aluminum air tanks, but you’ll be spending twice as much
@@victorjay9586 Aluminum has issues too, like poor fatigue life... also Aluminum is harder to weld (well not really, with the right equipment it can be done). Like some airplanes explode because of fatigue life and all that (not to mention airframes have to be checked after x hours of flight, and surely this is not done with air compressors).
@@taiwanluthiers An Anode only works when submersed. Stainless pressure tanks are common.
It is sad that you cannot purchase just a new tank.
no need to empty air out of receiver every day . just excess water . better still fit an electric auto drain fitted to manual drain
where does one get an electric auto drain?
1:06 🤣
is galvanized tank a danger for a compressor tank? galvanized doesn’t rust like steel! rights?
I don't know. Maybe it would cost too much.
Water does not compress, that is why it's safe... ish...
7:45 - Чиво бл-я?!!! Какие часы?!
ВОСТОК КОМАНДИРСКИЕ КОМАДИР ТАНКА
@@robertdeptula2003 а, ну да, похоже!
I dont believe everything used to be built good, i think its purely survivorship bias, everything that was built good is still around, but everything what was built good enough has long since failed
Bikini bottom
You look inside the tank, but you don't even bother to look at the bottom, where water would collect. Fail.
The very first few seconds of the video is the bottom view. No visual inspection necessary, pressure did the test. Pressure test was successful. Win!
I think it would be a good idea. If you knew what you were talking about before you posted a video like this tanks do not explode due to corrosion only due to overpressurization only
I think your correct, 125 - 150 psi rupturing a tank should only pop out the area where the rust is, not make the tank explode, I suspect every one of the videos where they have exploded, are because they have modified the pressure switch, and modified or bypassed to blowoff valve, yes ?
@@ericschulze5641 it’s not that they have modified the pressure switch in any manner in most cases, the cheap pressure switch and relief valve fail simultaneously.
The contacts on the pressure switch weld themselves closed. At this point the compressor will not shut off if the relief does not open, the tank will explode quite simply.