Can someone explain to me how the polishing step after the white oil stone works? It seems to be just a piece of hardened steel. does it have any special properties like a certain grit it was ground to? Never seen someone else do that.
Hello mate - that's a pivot file/burnisher. www.hswalsh.com/product/pivot-file-and-burnisher-left-hand-hp1001 Burnishing a bearing surface is understood to work harden the metal somewhat, and so make it a little more resistant to wear. The burnisher is dragged along a coarse grit carborundum to score the (very hard) surface of the tool, assisting it to do its thing when used with plenty of oil (firm even pressure, back and forth action, not too much, just until the surface transforms). If the process goes well, a nicely Arkansas stoned surface transforms into a mirror finish that is a thin shell of slightly harder material enclosing the underlying parent metal. The modern ones from Vallorbe tend to be lozenge shaped to reach into a shoulder either from underneath or above a pivot, hence the names "left" and "right" handed - Cheers :)
Hey Chris, thanks for these really informative videos. I hope to join your Patreon in a month (or so), hackers have made hash of my finances but that is getting resolved!! See you soon. KJK
I was wondering the other day if I should switch to a vernier caliper to avoid running out of juice, but hey, if a digital piece is good enough for Chris, it is certainly good enough for me.
Love your videos you are extremely talented. Surprised you needed to file so much for a good finish. I have a 1943 Rivett bench lathe that can turn a remarkably smooth finish using an India stone on the HHS cutter.
Chris, how do you monitor your table travel? Does your lathe have a dial? We always see you mark shoulder to shoulder depth with blue dye and a caliper but that has to just be for reference. For the tolerances you are working with that's not accurate enough. Just curious if you use something on the handwheel, a trav-a-dail, or some other method.
It depends a bit on the part, but I've noticed for the sort of parts that I make, while OD's are mostly critical, lengths & depths rarely are ("if it rattles, it runs!"). So most of the time it ends up being fine to just cut the profile to scribed markings. If it really counts I will depth mic from a shoulder etc, or I might choose to do the work on the Sherline. It has an excellent fine feed, 0.01mm grads, works great when required - Cheers :)
@@ClickspringClips Thanks for the reply! I use an Edge Technology carriage indicator on my Monarch 10ee lathe and it works really well for that. I don't know if it would fit on your lathe though.
Turning between centers allows one to flip the part and have both ends be perfectly (ideally) concentric and parallel to each other. To do this by just chucking on the bar would require laborious indicating, if the machine is even capable of holding those tolerances in the first place.
It guarantees concentricity if the part is removed and replaced (as it is). 3 jaw chucks (or more to the point self centring chucks which most 3 jaws are) will rarely be exactly centred again when a part is replaced. Independent jaw chucks (most 4 jaws) can get the part dead centre again - with effort. But turning between centres means the part goes back exactly centre every time (or close enough for most mere mortals, and even Chris!)
i think it is called turning between centers, and im not sure if it is more or less accurate but i did notice he was able to spin the part around 180degrees pretty easily. you'd have to googlefu more info
It's some type of "smoothing or polishing stone" - looks like what I normally consider an "Arkansas stone" (which McMaster-Carr apparently calls Novaculite), but it's a smooth stone on video so could be some other type as well.
That's most likely an Arkansas Hard or Translucent stone, or a similar variant of fine oil stone. In some cases they're called 'Abrasive Files' or Honing stones. Specifically that appears to be a *Norton brand 1/2 x 3 inch Hard Translucent Arkansas Triangular File* or a similar product. It should be noted that the same effect could be achieved by other means, such as wet-dry sandpaper with oil or by using a suspended abrasive on a backing material. Arkansas stones are generally easier to store, require less maintenance and set up, and higher material quality at a higher price point.
2:30 - Okay, that's a bit extra, no? You can just use the other side of the calipers, right? (I'm sure using tools you made yourself even when not needed has its own reward of course.)
Развлечения
Can someone explain to me how the polishing step after the white oil stone works? It seems to be just a piece of hardened steel. does it have any special properties like a certain grit it was ground to? Never seen someone else do that.
Hello mate - that's a pivot file/burnisher. www.hswalsh.com/product/pivot-file-and-burnisher-left-hand-hp1001 Burnishing a bearing surface is understood to work harden the metal somewhat, and so make it a little more resistant to wear. The burnisher is dragged along a coarse grit carborundum to score the (very hard) surface of the tool, assisting it to do its thing when used with plenty of oil (firm even pressure, back and forth action, not too much, just until the surface transforms). If the process goes well, a nicely Arkansas stoned surface transforms into a mirror finish that is a thin shell of slightly harder material enclosing the underlying parent metal. The modern ones from Vallorbe tend to be lozenge shaped to reach into a shoulder either from underneath or above a pivot, hence the names "left" and "right" handed - Cheers :)
@@ClickspringClips Well thank you for this detailed clarification. I was on the right track thinking of work hardening :)
I'd never seen that before either. Pretty cool.
First glance I thought the title was Glock Barrel!
Me too!
I wish
The highest precision Glock ever made.
Nice work as always Chris.
superb craftsmanship as always
Hey Chris, thanks for these really informative videos. I hope to join your Patreon in a month (or so), hackers have made hash of my finances but that is getting resolved!! See you soon. KJK
elegant beauty
Gday Chris, beautiful work as always mate, Cheers
Wow... you own something as crude as a hacksaw
That's the first time i've seen someone using a file to get to a near mirror finish on metal.
Impressive.
The deepest purple in the business...😉
I was wondering the other day if I should switch to a vernier caliper to avoid running out of juice, but hey, if a digital piece is good enough for Chris, it is certainly good enough for me.
I wanted to see you make the square end for winding and the spring hook! You only showed us the easy parts 😅
Stricly speaking this is machinist erotica...
These clips could be called "Beautiful Machining" :-)
Love your videos you are extremely talented.
Surprised you needed to file so much for a good finish. I have a 1943 Rivett bench lathe that can turn a remarkably smooth finish using an India stone on the HHS cutter.
I am waiting every video
Chris, how do you monitor your table travel? Does your lathe have a dial? We always see you mark shoulder to shoulder depth with blue dye and a caliper but that has to just be for reference. For the tolerances you are working with that's not accurate enough. Just curious if you use something on the handwheel, a trav-a-dail, or some other method.
I've always wondered the same.
It depends a bit on the part, but I've noticed for the sort of parts that I make, while OD's are mostly critical, lengths & depths rarely are ("if it rattles, it runs!"). So most of the time it ends up being fine to just cut the profile to scribed markings. If it really counts I will depth mic from a shoulder etc, or I might choose to do the work on the Sherline. It has an excellent fine feed, 0.01mm grads, works great when required - Cheers :)
@@ClickspringClips Thanks for the reply! I use an Edge Technology carriage indicator on my Monarch 10ee lathe and it works really well for that. I don't know if it would fit on your lathe though.
Hi Chris,
Love your videos... noticed that your 'engineers blue' is purple... what brand is it?, or is it a trick of the light?
👍👌👏
Why use the contraption to turn the piece on a point instead of putting it directly inside the chuck?
Turning between centers allows one to flip the part and have both ends be perfectly (ideally) concentric and parallel to each other. To do this by just chucking on the bar would require laborious indicating, if the machine is even capable of holding those tolerances in the first place.
It guarantees concentricity if the part is removed and replaced (as it is). 3 jaw chucks (or more to the point self centring chucks which most 3 jaws are) will rarely be exactly centred again when a part is replaced. Independent jaw chucks (most 4 jaws) can get the part dead centre again - with effort. But turning between centres means the part goes back exactly centre every time (or close enough for most mere mortals, and even Chris!)
i think it is called turning between centers, and im not sure if it is more or less accurate but i did notice he was able to spin the part around 180degrees pretty easily. you'd have to googlefu more info
2:30 why use that tool? isn't that what the smaller Bernier arms meant to do?
3:27 What is that?
Looks like a honing stone. Probably something like a "Arkansas" stone
What material is that white tool sfuff at 3:39 minute?
It's some type of "smoothing or polishing stone" - looks like what I normally consider an "Arkansas stone" (which McMaster-Carr apparently calls Novaculite), but it's a smooth stone on video so could be some other type as well.
looks like a honing stone.
That's most likely an Arkansas Hard or Translucent stone, or a similar variant of fine oil stone. In some cases they're called 'Abrasive Files' or Honing stones. Specifically that appears to be a *Norton brand 1/2 x 3 inch Hard Translucent Arkansas Triangular File* or a similar product.
It should be noted that the same effect could be achieved by other means, such as wet-dry sandpaper with oil or by using a suspended abrasive on a backing material. Arkansas stones are generally easier to store, require less maintenance and set up, and higher material quality at a higher price point.
u can't sleep too?
2:30 - Okay, that's a bit extra, no? You can just use the other side of the calipers, right?
(I'm sure using tools you made yourself even when not needed has its own reward of course.)
Please upload full video I am Indian your video very good awesome
The whole clock series is on his main channel, Clickspring
I don't know what any of that was, but now I feel like making sweet love
me too.