In all seriousness, good job. A couple little comments. You poured a 28 cubic foot, just a bump over 1 cubic yard pad. You used a little less than 6 bags. At a minimum for durability you should be at least 6 bags for one yard. However, I like to be closer to 7 bags per yard. What I like to do is 3 stone, 2 and a half sand and 1 and a half cement. Makes a nice finishable mix. Another pointer that takes some time but will save a lot of time is to meter your water in a bucket and adjust until you get the slump you want. Then you dont have to guess the water and you can put all the water in upfront and not have to worry about it anymore.
Really appreciate it. I’ve gotten it to 6 bags now. I’ve gotten the mix I want now. I just go a little heavy on the sand and Portland as you said. And for the water, I don’t guess. There’s a line in the mixer. I fill the mixer first with water until it hits that line. Then every mix has the same amount of water. Thank you for the tips and the well thought out comment 💪🏻👍🏻
Ignore all of the idiots that give out negative comments. It's YOUR job. You do it how you want. I appreciate your taking the time to make these videos. The youtube "experts" are sitting on there ass at home and proably have never touched wet concrete or even published a youtube video. Please keep up the good work !!!
I 1000000 percent agree with you too bro… if it wasn’t for people like you taking precious time out yo day to film stuff like this it would’ve been plenty projects I would’ve failed at cuz I use RUclips creators for a lil direction In my own endeavors! Fuck what a hater gotta say!!🤷🏾♂️
I've been using my HF crment mixer for around 5 years now, just small things 2x2x3 pads, 10x12 shed slabs, when I need to do over 25 fence post holes. It's been holding up just fine, even built it a ramp that hangs on that solid bar below the drum so I don't have to empty the contents into a wheel barrow. Solid $189 purchase
Good job man... I can speak with a little authority on this subject. I'm retired from the swimming pool construction business 500 pools. About 20% of those pools worth vinyl liner inground pools that required 25 yds. Of concrete to construct. We built those pools with one gas powered Stone brand mixer. The only thing I would suggest that would help you would be to get anything to hold water next to the mixer such as a garbage can and keep it containing water just to bucket into the mixer. Count the scoops of water out of the water container and put the same amount every mix. As an added bonus the water container is a great place to dunk the spent bags to make them waterlogged and you can stack them neatly to be disposed of... Like I say great job it can be done that's the way they did it in the old days and it works.
Great video. I can't believe people would criticize a man out there working hard. Whether it's how you would do, or not do it, isn't the point. My 17 year old son and I are building a home with walk out basement from the ground up. Home design, excavation, block laying, framing, plumbing, etc is all brand new to us, and I'm sure we're making mistakes. But, we're building our family a home. Good job brother. Keep it up!
@jeffdeshong Thanks Jeff, it's definitely more than I bargained for. 🙏 I just noticed your University of Pittsburgh shirt. My wife actually worked at UPMC back in the day. 👍
Good job on the first pad square. I found that using a reciprocating saw without a blade on the forms help remove the voids. Not such a big deal on the inside edges that will have another pad poured up against it, but on the outside it would be a good idea. It costs a lot for a contractor do do the job because its a lot of manual labour. If you are willing to do it, you can save a lot of money.
Even Mike Day gets haters and he has over 30 years experience. Don't worry about those folks. If you want to save yourself a few trips with the wheelbarrow, try two dumps from the mixer into it. Also I will always do a test pull with my broom if I'm not happy with it I just hand float over it or bull float and I just want a little longer. Great video looking forward for the next one.
Man I’ve been doing concrete for over 25 years, and with that experience there would be many point to nit pick you, but why? You don’t deserve to be nit picked, instead you deserve to be applauded for your efforts! Over all, you did great! Keep it up young man!
I have that mixer.its great. I go to you tube university to get a real education. The pros post tips all the time. O'Dell concrete is a great help. And that's smart advertising for them.
Nothing negative to say, but a suggestion. Eliminate the wheelbarrow. Move the mixer to the edge of the form and dump it. You could drag the concrete while the next batch is mixing.
When I was young we never had a mixer. We mixed in a wheel barrel with a hoe. The sand/gravel came from shoveling at the creek into our pickup. Now we’ve gotten to the point where we watch tv and have somebody else come and do it for us. You did a good job.
I'm able to get a larger mixer, but damn, it's still a lot of work. I'mpouring a cement pad that will eventually be a garage floor. Steady by jerks gets the job done!
Same here. I'm older now. Yesterday, I ordered a new 12 cubic feet concrete mixer with a Honda 13 hp motor. I should have it by mid month. It's too hot here for me to be outside. However, I will be stockpiling concrete supplies until then.
We just did the same thing this weekend. A 4m (13') x 3m (10') x 10 cm (4") slab broken into 4 equal parts of 1m (3.3') x 3m (10'), with inter-connecting 1/2" rebar (by way of notches in the form that will "slide" into the next quarter as we get to pour it). The rebar was sitting on 3" dobies, some of which toppled over. The entire form is on builders plastic. For the first quarter (which was in most areas closer to 6" deep) we went through 10 mixers-full, each consisting of * 1 bag of 25kg 42.N portland cement * 22 shovels of 0-32 mm ballast (rock/sand mix) I think we got approximately the same result in similar weather conditions. Key difference maybe is that we used a vibrator (which aids in moving the mud around inside the form and reducing honeycombing, but I think also brings bleed water to the top maybe a bit too early). Used an aluminium screed bar. Used magnesium floats. I didn't get to the broom since we needed to get a move on as it was getting late, and also the available brooms in the EU are a bit crappy. For the 2nd quarter this weekend, I will try to run a wooden bullfloat that I made in between the screeding and floating. Hopefully I can get to the broom. Dunno how to post a pic anywhere on utube to show my results, but would like to. Good to see some other poor bastard giving this a go. Shout out to @AJDIYNetwork who also posted a nice vid on the same method.
Great job Jeff and congrats on finishing the pad. I just completed a 50 sq ft pad for a garage extension using a "tripod" mixer. I think the HF mixer design is more stable. I had a hard time getting the tripod mixer to completely empty on each batch, maybe it was too dry. I also did the forms to include a 4" curb/sill around the pad, which was challenging to figure out for a novice. looking forward to seeing the garage structure go up.
I have the same mixer. It was cheap but works good for the past 2 years. I find it easier to to pour directly into form and I also leave running when I pour it out.
Thank you for taking the time to film this . I want you to know that people like me and I'm sure many others really appreciate the help you have provided in spreading knowledge on how to do projects like this : )
Good concrete work, Jeff! However, if you plan to put any type of weight bearing structure on these slabs, you would really need some footers in place. Otherwise, it's gonna be a troublesome experience. Generally, weight bearing load structures require a footing to be placed 12" below the frost line in your area. As @wisdomtrek1 mentioned, a monolithic slab would be the way to go with proper footers incorporated. A few cement trucks and a properly prepared base could be done in a day. Then, you could build whatever you want on top of it. Still, love your grit and tenacity as well as your videos! :)
Thanks Mike! Yup already have everything planned out. For the metal garage I’m buying, this is actually extreme overkill. One of the main reasons I’m not using a cement truck is because they would have to drive over a septic tank so I can’t get one close.
@@jeffdeshong I should have know you had already thought a lot of this through. Carry on - looking forward to more! Thanks, Jeff! Always love the content! :)
@@MikeBMW you’re the man Mike! I did originally plan on going the footer route. But I decided that it was going to be crazy expensive and a crazy amount of work. I really need a garage and I’m pleased with how my shed turned out so I decided to give a metal garage a go.
@@jeffdeshong I would expect nothing less than you already figuring the options. As a bonus, we now get to see a way to get this done which could be beneficial to many others. As for me, putting a small slab for a cover over my generator with the upcoming Florida Hurricane season. One never knows where the experiences you present could lead. :)
I'm an amateur so please excuse me if this is a dumb question: Why did you choose to mix the gravel/sand/cement yourself instead of buying bagged concrete mix? I just looked and it looks like it would be 42x80lb bags of high strength which is about $282 at HD. I guess plus the wire you said was $44 or something so you are saving ~$75 per section here. Is that the only reason you mix it yourself or are you going for some specific ratio or something else? Just trying to weigh the savings versus the trouble. Thanks for making such an informative video.
Thanks for the question. Yeah mostly the cost savings. If you buy bags you still have to mix it. I would never do a dry pour personally. Getting the materials for me really isn’t that bad and I find it easier than moving 80lb bags around. Thanks for watching!
I came to this video from the final recap that covers final cost. I am in disbelief over your massive savings! I have done small concrete jobs old school like this but never on such scale. Question for the experienced here: For this project.. would it be useful to add the white strands and fibers? What about more meral mesh or some foam ro prevent sweating? Congrats man... it's amazing how nice that came out
Just stumbled over this video and had an idea while watching. Could you use a section of rain gutter and bypass the wheelbarrow all together like a cement truck. I don't know, would the rain gutter be wide enough for the idea to work, or something similar shape.
Just out of curiosity, why not pour directly from the mixer into the forms? Wouldn't it be easier to push some of the mixed concrete around then wheelbarrel it?
Moving the mixer is a lot harder than a wheelbarrow. You move your mixer away from your materials. It’s more messy and more work that way. Some mixers are meant for that, not this one. I did my shed slab the way you’re describing and it was a lot harder on my back. Thanks for watching
Not gonna come here and pretend I'm a concrete pourer hall of famer but the only thing is that everything should be measured from the buckets of sand, stone, liters or gallons of water and bags of cement. You can shut all the haters by doing a 1 year and 2 year post pour video... Good job.
To raise the PSI with the concrete you can add more cement, as for the slump start out with adding a little water at a time to the consistency you think you’ll need so that it’s not too watery and it won’t take long to dry and harden.
I've poured several of these through the years, I did an 8X10 x 4" using sakrete concrete bags and by myself, hell of days workout and it was much warmer, can't remember the amount of bags but it was like over 40 I think, one thing to note if you didn't is oil those forms so they come off super easy. I did another 10 x 12 one time and hired a cement truck to come pour it all. My sides had lots spots like yours where the concrete didn't settle properly, if you can find a concrete vibrator that would eliminate that just by running it around the sides. Over all nice job on mixing it yourself and it turned out great, good luck with the rest of them.
This is actually a GREAT idea. It's also a necessary way to do it while you are labor deficit 😅 Advantages 1 you can add and subtract your footprint size 2 not likely to crack if you use good rebar 3 your not bighting off more than you can chew by yourself. 4 easy to level 😂 5 it takes about the right amount of time to make one as to drinkma 6 pack of beer 🍺 😊 6 it gives the haters something to complain about. Downsides 1 you will need a much larger pad for putting machining tools on. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the inspiration. im buying land, and this is my approach as well. Thanks for the upload . Greetings from McMurdo Station Antarctica.
Wow! I think I could do that. For now, I'm starting out doing a Flag Pole with Quickset Cement, but I might be looking at putting down a slab sometime next year and your video really was very helpful. You did a great job. I imagine that a guy can save some money DIY. Thanks for the great video!
Amazing! Thank you for posting this project. Shows you what you can do if you set your mind to it. I have some concrete experience, but not tons. I’m gonna definitely use what I learned here on my own project! Thank again Bro! Cheers!
Good for you, man! I'm proud of you for figuring this out on your own and getting it done! Vibrating the wet concrete might be a good idea to get rid of those air pockets, but other than that it looks really good! It looks like SOOO much work, considering how big of a pad you want! You're a brave man! Way more brave than me!
Awesome job. I'm gonna be doin a 16X16 mini garage/ manshed/ bar& toolshed next year. I was thinking about doin a dry pour, until I seen it after 90 days, it wasn't fully cured. So with watching your video, I'll do a wet pour. I have a bunch of bad bags of concrete, it sat outside for 3 winters in the garage. My goal is to pay them down first, then l shouldn't need any gravel before I pour. So I'll probably need 5& 5 tons of gravel and sand maybe 28 gags of Portland to do my pour. Thanks for going into details with how much materials it took for you to do that 7X8 slab. Most other RUclipsrs don't give out their material lists.
You do you, I’ve done the same thing with my inexpensive Princess Auto mixer here in Canada and it has worked out fine. Did a 12x20 workshop floor for my shed and everything is fine, small expected cracks after putting my cj5 in and jacking but over all, great.
Harbor Freight orange model mixer motor dies to a dead slow -manuel spin .Any time it happens is a bad day. Any clue,what to do to restore proper spin strength?
Am I missing something here: a 7x8 foot pad x 6 inches = Volume = 7 * 8 * 0.5 = 28 cubic feet.There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. In Denver, a cubic yard of ready mix is $150.00 (Im assuming that the sand and stone had a delivery fee... as would readymix. A 10 yard load is about $120 / yard. 10 pads at @ 3 hrs - $30 hrs. I think cost wise its a wash or close.
Dude straight up I’ve done all kinds of jobs but concrete work & for what you did here just convinced me that I can make it work for my thing. I was wondering one thing though why such small amounts in the mix-up, it seems like the wheels barrel & mixer could’ve taken a lil more maybe.. is it the weight that’s the factor? And I do know the air pockets is a major concern of some, look into figuring how to vibrate it!!
The mixer can only hold so much at once before it starts overflowing. I tilt the mixer down a little, it mixes a lot better that way. For the wheel barrel, I tried more on a couple pads. It seemed to irritate my back a little more compared to more trips with a lighter amount. Thanks for watching!
Nice work! As a matter of personal preference, I would not broom finish a garage floor, it will make it very hard to sweep. Also, I would leave the edges square. Easier to roll around a creeper and or tool boxes.
Did you price out what a cement truck cost? If you do the work yourself and buy the cement from them it might be close to the same price but take less time. What you’ve done looks good, just thinking there might be a more efficient way.
Not sure what your using the platforms for but if your not driving on it I would just do 3”-4” thick and use premix bags. Would save a lot of time and effort? I like the sharp edge look! Any reason though why you didn’t round them?
Definitely going to be driving on it. Premix bags is a lot more work in my opinion. Didn’t round them just to save some work and time. I don’t really need them rounded. Just going to be a garage floor. Thanks for watching!
I’d think 6” floor is plenty good for pickup trucks and cars in a garage. Most driveways are 4” in my area. Naturally, if you’re installing a car lift the post areas will require much thicker support, but that can be done at a later time if necessary. Also, a single level garage structure won’t have a lot of load support needed for the post on that small of a span.
How come u didn’t go with pre mixed bags. Sand and stone is cheap but how did u got it home. I’ve poured a small sidewalk and it took like 60 bags.I had to load it from inside of the store to loading to the cub then unload it at home then had pick it up to load in the cement mixer. I didn’t know it’s took that much
looks great. I couldn't help but to notice the absence of any steel in your form (rebar). Also, the early shots of the finished pour appear to be blurred out, but only on the slab, nothing else. ? In any event, good for you for doing it for yourself!
Hey, how's it holding up? Just kinda worried there may not be enough cement to the mix especially since there's going to be vehicle load. Not sure if the gravel makes up for it or not.
You saved yourself a ton of money. A contractor would have been 2 - 2 1/2 times or more in cost. I know, I've done this. You get a nice product done in a short time frame, but it is not cheap. Keep up the good work.
Is there a danger of the concrete setting up at different times? Or is that not a factor doing it one load at a time? And how do you figure out the mixture needed?
Not for a house. And they will all be tied together with rebar. You drill holes and put rebar in when you’re pouring the next pad. No movement should occur
Thank you! A really good video. I think I counted 43-45 Ace Hardware wheelbarrow loads to fill the 7'x8' x 6" pad. Good knowledge to have. I must redo my concrete in my ancient shop/garage and I must bust up my old concrete. I don't have the money to pay for the whole project at once, and this poor guy will do it as I can. I learned a lot from your adventure.
Nice looks good , I always hand pour my slabs as well in my area premix concrete is $2800 for 10 yards delivered which is horrible. But a few tips if you doing a garage you really should consider rebar #4 or #5 to tie all together so if it settles it will do so together and also have you priced out using 80lbs bags of sacrete? My last one I did was 12 x 16 it took 50 bags just dump straight into mixer and add water most home depots if you get over 40 bags give a nice discount I think my last delivery was $212 for the concrete and $75 for delivery. I think the tensile strength is like 3000 psi ?
Consideration for formwork next time.. FORM OIL (release agent). Will make the break loose easier. :est chance of damaging your pad during stripping. Also, I know you'er about DIY. What kind of price differential do you wind up with as opposed to going big and pumping the stuff in all at once? Finally, have you thought about fiber or Helix rebar in there to make the pad more durable?
Haven’t even considered the price of pumping all at once since I can’t get a truck close. Concrete would be a little cheaper but I would need more equipment and labor to get it done, which would increase the price substantially. Thanks for watching!
I'm building a 30x50 shed. I was told I had to have a minimum of a 1 foot footing around the sides minimum 4 inch pad. What is the reason for a footing?
Great job. By the time you’re all done you will have worked out all the kinks. You could keep the mixer going while pouring your mix in the wheelbarrow, comes out easier.
Just curious. Do you need any permits or inspections where you live? I'm only asking because it appears you don't have to have a footer. I wonder if I can get away with not having a footer. Just bought a new house and was delighted to learn that I don't require a permit to pour my own slab for a detached garage. I assumed I'd still have a footer and a vapor barrier just for my own peace of mind. But if 6 inches and rebar can hold up and last a lifetime, I'm in. Far cheaper.
Both types of comments are really good for your channel. Crybabies will want to feed their egos and get attention and more mature audience members will love and appreciate your excellent work. It doesn't matter which type they are because the RUclips algorithm interprets both as being interest in your content and will give you better exposure either way. Well done, amigo! I'll be watching more of your videos.
This video gives me a little bit of hope. I'm wanting to do all the cement work myself for our house. About how much time does it take from when you first turn in the mixer to when you pour it?
Actually. It's probably irrelevant. The main thing I would need to figure out is how much time per bag of cement, so I can gauge the time of the entire job that I would want to do
@@WindwalkerHomestead in the latest video I knocked a pad out in about 2 1/2 hours. It was a little over a yard. I think maybe 1.2. You could calculate how many bags for 1.2 yards and figure it out that way.
Looks nice. If you are planning to interlock the pads to make 1 giant slab you can drill holes in your form boards and run rebar through the holes. Then your next pad has rebar locking the first and second pad together. If you want them locked together so they absolutely cant heave seperately then take a 2X4 and run it through a table saw to bevel the edges 5-15o. The 2X4 is then screwed onto the inside of your form board around the centerline of your form board. You MUST bevel the 2X4 edges or else when you pour the concrete you will be cussing like a sailor trying to remove the 2X4 from the set concrete. The 2X4 will create a groove in the side of your pad so when you do the next pour the new pad will have concrete form into the groove and those two seperate pads are now interlocking. If you want to go hard core then once you add the bevelled 2X4 inside your form drill holes through the center on the form and 2X4 to run rebar through. Your next pad you tie onto those protruding rebars and continue the process. Critical thing... Bevel the 2X4. Trust me if you dont youll only do it once. As an apprentice carpenter i forgot only once. When you are chipping out a regular unbeveled 2X4 from concrete it is an unforgettable pain in the backside lol.
@@curtwarkentin2887 thanks for the detailed comment and suggestions. Check out the latest videos on this pad, I’ve done most of what you said. And you are correct on the bevel, although I did one pad that way with no bevel. I oiled the forms well before pouring and didn’t have any problems removing forms. Thanks for watching!
@@derpherpp3 the rebar grid is called a "mat". It's like a skeleton to hold concrete together. In a monolithic pour. "All done at the same time" all the rebar runs throughout. In a segmented pour your rebar stops inside the forum boards. There is nothing holding the slabs together. So you have to drill into the existing slab and epoxy rebar that connects the next slab. My suggestion was to run the rebar through the forum boards, preventing the need for the extra steps.
Ive had mine for probably 10 years now. Done a 12x12 shed pad, curb, sidewalks, stairs, porch top. All kinds of stuff. 2 60lb bags at a time. Great piece of equipment. Only gripe is that it isnt tall enough to dump right into a wheelbarrow.
Very nice. I'm looking to do a pad and we found a mixer for like 100 bucks that is oddly enough the same mixer you are using. I think we have a plan now!
I was curious to compare your cost, effort & time mixing ingredients to pre-mixed quickrete/sakrete bags at HD using bulk pricing on 8/15/24 at $4.03/60lbs. Your 8x7x6" pad would need 63 of these totaling $253 + tax, same price. This would get you high strength 5000psi. I was considering something similar to how you did separate individual pours; 4 sections, 4 days for my 16x12 shed. Instead I got a concrete truck to deliver ready mix for $75 additional cost to 140 bags to really speed things up. One difference is the ready-mix will only be 3000psi. Thanks.
@@DJT_351 253 + tax is not the same price as the 200 I spend to make my concrete. I think you’re thinking of my total price per pad with rebar/wire mesh.
@jeffdeshong seems like it could only be beneficial, especially if you plan to put a heavy load on it. I'm watching cause I plan on pouring me some pads for my shed soon. Thanks for the content man!
Great video... interestingly enough I was considering pouring my own slab and this has helped tremendously. Nay sayers everywhere. Just ignore them and keep your head up.
Im about to do similar. This was good and informative. I think I'll set the piles of materials closer and put the mixer inside the form until almost full. Save my back from the barrow
I had one of those works good for wall building just about the right size when you get though entire barrel full time to take a break anyway and check the lines. Those 8x8x16 cinder blocks get heavy after go for awhile.
You made it look it easy and very well done wow! I'm convinced you might actually move at that speed lol. Questions...i'm doing a similar sized job soon but considered going with bags of concrete. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! In my area seems like bags is slightly more expensive. But less trips getting materials. I spend about $200 a pad for the concrete alone. If I were to use bags, it would be closer to $300. All up to personal opinion. Thanks for watching!
Is it cheaper to buy bags of concrete or use a Portland mix. I ask because I am about to poor a slab in my barn. Videos like this are a huge help! Thank you
In some areas, the local rock is not cool. ie: NYS shale. As such even in small pieces, it works as a base, but in the concrete it weakens the result, and is usually a disaster. So, the two are not comparable. Concrete companies might sell rock for concrete, but they might be further away (distance = cost). And in East Texas, there is not much rock. So, rock gets expensive, whereas local contractors might be getting huge trucks in, and it might behoove you to use them. So, it's a regional comparison. And not an easy answer, as you also have to consider the value of your time. ie, the neighbor was a contractor, and had more work then he could do, so, even he outsourced the concrete work for a giant garage he built. So, it's basically a local research project.
The issue often is getting a pre-mix that has strength close to what you can achieve by mixing your own ballast and cement. Buy the rock/sand/cement and roll your own. It's fun anyway.
I did a 10x26 pad using the harbor freight mixer. It was a lot of work but it turned out well. Did it in 10x10 foot sections. It turned out great. I found that if I put the mixer in the middle of the square it was easier. The mixer mess was in the middle of the slab. Minimal cleanup. You did a great job keep up the good work
How do your separate pads line up? I’ve always had issues getting the tops perfectly level when I try to do individual pads that make up a single bigger pad
@@missinmachmakinmemories9429 I formed it like it was a 10x26 slab and put a form at 10 feet with notches for the steel. The notches were “V” shaped so I could lift the form straight up and move it 10 feet down the form Leaving a 6x10 section at the end. Because the two 26’ forms never moved until the end of the pour- I had no problems with level, straight or flow lines.
@@missinmachmakinmemories9429 note if you are rodding off the previous slab you need to add 1/8” to the bottom of the rod on the slab side to allow for shrinkage in the previous pour
@@LostandFoundFarms33952 you don’t put anything in between. Pouring concrete against concrete creates a hard joint. Basically the same as pouring a big pad all at once and then cutting joints into it.
Good job. I would not have hand mixed at all, because when I do the math, here I can buy a yard of Readymix 3000 PS with Fibermesh ( no need for rebar! ) in it, plus extra for small load 154 + 70 = 224 plus tax. Now if I choose 400 PSI Readymix the price would be more, yet still removes the labor of mixing. If I mixed my own it would be real close to your costs, 240 for a yard and a bit. Otherwise your work is very impressive. Too for a Garage your design is state of the art! Great grading of the base/gravel, that needs be stomped real well for a longer lasting floor!
I was also wondering the cost(delivered) of ready mix, but to have a truckload delivered, one would need full forming and a placement/finishing crew. Of course the concrete would be consistent and no equipment needed. This method however, saves buying a gym membership. LOL. 😊
Well done! I'm doing a mini version of your project(shed) and have never worked with concrete before, so I'm surfing youtube looking for tips and also real world experience with the HF mixer. 2 or 3 of these mixers going at the same time and you could really crank projects out.
I’m not a know it all and not in any way criticizing I drove a mixer for twenty eight years and can’t tell you how many times home owners put mesh in and leave it on the bottom of the concrete. That won’t do one bit of good. You have to pull it up as you go so it’s in the middle of the concrete. It looks really good also I hope all of those small slabs don’t heave differently and leave you with an un even floor. Looks like your gonna have a ton of water flow off that hill and under the slab. Again good job and good luck!
Oh, and yes, I hit the subscribe button. Thanks again!
Air-Assault ! Brother
In all seriousness, good job. A couple little comments. You poured a 28 cubic foot, just a bump over 1 cubic yard pad. You used a little less than 6 bags. At a minimum for durability you should be at least 6 bags for one yard. However, I like to be closer to 7 bags per yard. What I like to do is 3 stone, 2 and a half sand and 1 and a half cement. Makes a nice finishable mix. Another pointer that takes some time but will save a lot of time is to meter your water in a bucket and adjust until you get the slump you want. Then you dont have to guess the water and you can put all the water in upfront and not have to worry about it anymore.
Really appreciate it. I’ve gotten it to 6 bags now. I’ve gotten the mix I want now. I just go a little heavy on the sand and Portland as you said. And for the water, I don’t guess. There’s a line in the mixer. I fill the mixer first with water until it hits that line. Then every mix has the same amount of water. Thank you for the tips and the well thought out comment 💪🏻👍🏻
7 bags in a yard of concrete is some very, very weak concrete..
Is dry pour safe to do
Hope your kidding. That crap will die in a few years and start crumbling almosy immediately @@Gokywildcats11
@brandon4677 is this being sarcastic? A 7 bag mix is usually over 4,000 psi. Most pads and wall footers are around 3,000
Pls keep us updated on this project would love to keep seeing the progress!
Ignore all of the idiots that give out negative comments. It's YOUR job. You do it how you want. I appreciate your taking the time to make these videos. The youtube "experts" are sitting on there ass at home and proably have never touched wet concrete or even published a youtube video. Please keep up the good work !!!
Thank you 👍🏻
I 1000000 percent agree with you too bro… if it wasn’t for people like you taking precious time out yo day to film stuff like this it would’ve been plenty projects I would’ve failed at cuz I use RUclips creators for a lil direction In my own endeavors! Fuck what a hater gotta say!!🤷🏾♂️
Couldn't agree more.
@@smackmurph7414 appreciate you 💪🏻
Good try boosting him up.
There will always be armchair critics. I just bought that same mixer. Instructions sucked but I’m ready to start several projects. Good job.
Me to after I spent 18k on a driveway. I said never again... I'm doing it myself
Yeah lazy people who live their life through a screen always insulting people on YT videos!!!!
I've been using my HF crment mixer for around 5 years now, just small things 2x2x3 pads, 10x12 shed slabs, when I need to do over 25 fence post holes. It's been holding up just fine, even built it a ramp that hangs on that solid bar below the drum so I don't have to empty the contents into a wheel barrow. Solid $189 purchase
Same. There are some things I won't buy from HF, but things like a mixer are pretty basic and hard to screw up, and they're great!
Good job man... I can speak with a little authority on this subject. I'm retired from the swimming pool construction business 500 pools. About 20% of those pools worth vinyl liner inground pools that required 25 yds. Of concrete to construct. We built those pools with one gas powered Stone brand mixer. The only thing I would suggest that would help you would be to get anything to hold water next to the mixer such as a garbage can and keep it containing water just to bucket into the mixer. Count the scoops of water out of the water container and put the same amount every mix. As an added bonus the water container is a great place to dunk the spent bags to make them waterlogged and you can stack them neatly to be disposed of... Like I say great job it can be done that's the way they did it in the old days and it works.
Great video. I can't believe people would criticize a man out there working hard. Whether it's how you would do, or not do it, isn't the point. My 17 year old son and I are building a home with walk out basement from the ground up. Home design, excavation, block laying, framing, plumbing, etc is all brand new to us, and I'm sure we're making mistakes. But, we're building our family a home. Good job brother. Keep it up!
@@michaelw7249 thank you 💪🏻 good luck on your home
@jeffdeshong Thanks Jeff, it's definitely more than I bargained for. 🙏 I just noticed your University of Pittsburgh shirt. My wife actually worked at UPMC back in the day. 👍
Good job on the first pad square. I found that using a reciprocating saw without a blade on the forms help remove the voids. Not such a big deal on the inside edges that will have another pad poured up against it, but on the outside it would be a good idea. It costs a lot for a contractor do do the job because its a lot of manual labour. If you are willing to do it, you can save a lot of money.
Even Mike Day gets haters and he has over 30 years experience. Don't worry about those folks. If you want to save yourself a few trips with the wheelbarrow, try two dumps from the mixer into it. Also I will always do a test pull with my broom if I'm not happy with it I just hand float over it or bull float and I just want a little longer. Great video looking forward for the next one.
Thank you very much! And some good tips 👍🏻
@@jeffdeshong Mike Day is the Man.
Man I’ve been doing concrete for over 25 years, and with that experience there would be many point to nit pick you, but why? You don’t deserve to be nit picked, instead you deserve to be applauded for your efforts! Over all, you did great! Keep it up young man!
I have that mixer.its great. I go to you tube university to get a real education. The pros post tips all the time. O'Dell concrete is a great help. And that's smart advertising for them.
Nothing negative to say, but a suggestion. Eliminate the wheelbarrow. Move the mixer to the edge of the form and dump it. You could drag the concrete while the next batch is mixing.
When I was young we never had a mixer. We mixed in a wheel barrel with a hoe. The sand/gravel came from shoveling at the creek into our pickup.
Now we’ve gotten to the point where we watch tv and have somebody else come and do it for us.
You did a good job.
Thank you!
I'm able to get a larger mixer, but damn, it's still a lot of work. I'mpouring a cement pad that will eventually be a garage floor. Steady by jerks gets the job done!
Same here. I'm older now. Yesterday, I ordered a new 12 cubic feet concrete mixer with a Honda 13 hp motor. I should have it by mid month. It's too hot here for me to be outside. However, I will be stockpiling concrete supplies until then.
Watch how they do it in the Philippines!
You forgot about being barefooted in the snow when you were doing it. 😅😅😅
Dude, this is sick! Such an amazing thing to see that genuine, hard and true work still exists. Nice job, man !!
@@JD_Customs really appreciate it 👍🏻 thanks for watching!
You did a damn fine job for 1 man, and the video was well done. Your grandpa is proud I'm sure, and rightly so.
We just did the same thing this weekend.
A 4m (13') x 3m (10') x 10 cm (4") slab broken into 4 equal parts of 1m (3.3') x 3m (10'), with inter-connecting 1/2" rebar (by way of notches in the form that will "slide" into the next quarter as we get to pour it). The rebar was sitting on 3" dobies, some of which toppled over. The entire form is on builders plastic.
For the first quarter (which was in most areas closer to 6" deep) we went through 10 mixers-full, each consisting of
* 1 bag of 25kg 42.N portland cement
* 22 shovels of 0-32 mm ballast (rock/sand mix)
I think we got approximately the same result in similar weather conditions.
Key difference maybe is that we used a vibrator (which aids in moving the mud around inside the form and reducing honeycombing, but I think also brings bleed water to the top maybe a bit too early).
Used an aluminium screed bar.
Used magnesium floats.
I didn't get to the broom since we needed to get a move on as it was getting late, and also the available brooms in the EU are a bit crappy.
For the 2nd quarter this weekend, I will try to run a wooden bullfloat that I made in between the screeding and floating.
Hopefully I can get to the broom.
Dunno how to post a pic anywhere on utube to show my results, but would like to.
Good to see some other poor bastard giving this a go.
Shout out to @AJDIYNetwork who also posted a nice vid on the same method.
Thanks for watching and the comment! Definitely a lot of work but worth it if willing.
Do a Short on RUclips
You upload a video to your RUclips channel
Great job Jeff and congrats on finishing the pad. I just completed a 50 sq ft pad for a garage extension using a "tripod" mixer. I think the HF mixer design is more stable. I had a hard time getting the tripod mixer to completely empty on each batch, maybe it was too dry. I also did the forms to include a 4" curb/sill around the pad, which was challenging to figure out for a novice. looking forward to seeing the garage structure go up.
Thank you!
I would conciser repositioning the mixer and dump directly in the form to save some hauling
It's already done...nothing to "reconsider" 🙄🙄🙄
@@bullpuppy7455 already done...
@@strjourneys7919it’s far from done genius
@@bullpuppy7455 stay focused more like pay attention lol
@@bullpuppy7455 🤣
I appreciate your time and effort to explain the process, its a great Slab. Screw the haters.
I have the same mixer. It was cheap but works good for the past 2 years. I find it easier to to pour directly into form and I also leave running when I pour it out.
Thank you for taking the time to film this . I want you to know that people like me and I'm sure many others really appreciate the help you have provided in spreading knowledge on how to do projects like this : )
Don't let the youtube schmucks change how you operate Your channel. The algorithm is working. I subbed
Really appreciate it 👍🏻
Good concrete work, Jeff!
However, if you plan to put any type of weight bearing structure on these slabs, you would really need some footers in place.
Otherwise, it's gonna be a troublesome experience.
Generally, weight bearing load structures require a footing to be placed 12" below the frost line in your area.
As @wisdomtrek1 mentioned, a monolithic slab would be the way to go with proper footers incorporated.
A few cement trucks and a properly prepared base could be done in a day. Then, you could build whatever you want on top of it.
Still, love your grit and tenacity as well as your videos! :)
Thanks Mike! Yup already have everything planned out. For the metal garage I’m buying, this is actually extreme overkill. One of the main reasons I’m not using a cement truck is because they would have to drive over a septic tank so I can’t get one close.
@@jeffdeshong I should have know you had already thought a lot of this through.
Carry on - looking forward to more!
Thanks, Jeff! Always love the content! :)
@@MikeBMW you’re the man Mike! I did originally plan on going the footer route. But I decided that it was going to be crazy expensive and a crazy amount of work. I really need a garage and I’m pleased with how my shed turned out so I decided to give a metal garage a go.
@@jeffdeshong I would expect nothing less than you already figuring the options.
As a bonus, we now get to see a way to get this done which could be beneficial to many others.
As for me, putting a small slab for a cover over my generator with the upcoming Florida Hurricane season. One never knows where the experiences you present could lead. :)
I'm an amateur so please excuse me if this is a dumb question: Why did you choose to mix the gravel/sand/cement yourself instead of buying bagged concrete mix? I just looked and it looks like it would be 42x80lb bags of high strength which is about $282 at HD. I guess plus the wire you said was $44 or something so you are saving ~$75 per section here. Is that the only reason you mix it yourself or are you going for some specific ratio or something else? Just trying to weigh the savings versus the trouble. Thanks for making such an informative video.
Thanks for the question. Yeah mostly the cost savings. If you buy bags you still have to mix it. I would never do a dry pour personally. Getting the materials for me really isn’t that bad and I find it easier than moving 80lb bags around. Thanks for watching!
@@jeffdeshong Thanks for answering I was wondering the same thing :)
I came to this video from the final recap that covers final cost. I am
in disbelief over your massive savings! I have done small concrete jobs old school like this but never on such scale. Question for the experienced here: For this project.. would it be useful to add the white strands and fibers? What about more meral mesh or some foam ro prevent sweating? Congrats man... it's amazing how nice that came out
Looks good Jeff I’m going to keep watching Thanks one man can do it if he wants to 👍
you didn't mention how you plan on joining them together, I would assume you plan on drilling the slab horizontially and inserting rebar
23:12
Just stumbled over this video and had an idea while watching. Could you use a section of rain gutter and bypass the wheelbarrow all together like a cement truck. I don't know, would the rain gutter be wide enough for the idea to work, or something similar shape.
I think what you’re talking about is possible
Just out of curiosity, why not pour directly from the mixer into the forms? Wouldn't it be easier to push some of the mixed concrete around then wheelbarrel it?
Moving the mixer is a lot harder than a wheelbarrow. You move your mixer away from your materials. It’s more messy and more work that way. Some mixers are meant for that, not this one. I did my shed slab the way you’re describing and it was a lot harder on my back. Thanks for watching
Not gonna come here and pretend I'm a concrete pourer hall of famer but the only thing is that everything should be measured from the buckets of sand, stone, liters or gallons of water and bags of cement. You can shut all the haters by doing a 1 year and 2 year post pour video... Good job.
To raise the PSI with the concrete you can add more cement, as for the slump start out with adding a little water at a time to the consistency you think you’ll need so that it’s not too watery and it won’t take long to dry and harden.
I've poured several of these through the years, I did an 8X10 x 4" using sakrete concrete bags and by myself, hell of days workout and it was much warmer, can't remember the amount of bags but it was like over 40 I think, one thing to note if you didn't is oil those forms so they come off super easy. I did another 10 x 12 one time and hired a cement truck to come pour it all. My sides had lots spots like yours where the concrete didn't settle properly, if you can find a concrete vibrator that would eliminate that just by running it around the sides. Over all nice job on mixing it yourself and it turned out great, good luck with the rest of them.
Awesome job dude. A full crew could not have done better. Concrete work is an art form that takes patience and fortitude. Great video brother.
Appreciate it!
That’s a day’s work man. Appreciate you posting. Great job!
@@stretch130MFE thank you!
This is actually a GREAT idea. It's also a necessary way to do it while you are labor deficit 😅
Advantages
1 you can add and subtract your footprint size
2 not likely to crack if you use good rebar
3 your not bighting off more than you can chew by yourself.
4 easy to level 😂
5 it takes about the right amount of time to make one as to drinkma 6 pack of beer 🍺 😊
6 it gives the haters something to complain about.
Downsides
1 you will need a much larger pad for putting machining tools on.
Keep up the good work. Thanks for the inspiration. im buying land, and this is my approach as well. Thanks for the upload . Greetings from McMurdo Station Antarctica.
Good job Jeff. Are you going to drill holes and put rebar in between each pad to tie them all together? Going to be a nice floor for your building!
Thank you and yes sir! They’ll all be tied together. Can’t wait for it to be done 👍🏻
Wow! I think I could do that. For now, I'm starting out doing a Flag Pole with Quickset Cement, but I might be looking at putting down a slab sometime next year and your video really was very helpful. You did a great job. I imagine that a guy can save some money DIY. Thanks for the great video!
Amazing! Thank you for posting this project. Shows you what you can do if you set your mind to it. I have some concrete experience, but not tons. I’m gonna definitely use what I learned here on my own project!
Thank again Bro! Cheers!
Good for you, man! I'm proud of you for figuring this out on your own and getting it done! Vibrating the wet concrete might be a good idea to get rid of those air pockets, but other than that it looks really good!
It looks like SOOO much work, considering how big of a pad you want! You're a brave man! Way more brave than me!
Awesome job. I'm gonna be doin a 16X16 mini garage/ manshed/ bar& toolshed next year. I was thinking about doin a dry pour, until I seen it after 90 days, it wasn't fully cured. So with watching your video, I'll do a wet pour. I have a bunch of bad bags of concrete, it sat outside for 3 winters in the garage. My goal is to pay them down first, then l shouldn't need any gravel before I pour. So I'll probably need 5& 5 tons of gravel and sand maybe 28 gags of Portland to do my pour. Thanks for going into details with how much materials it took for you to do that 7X8 slab. Most other RUclipsrs don't give out their material lists.
@@MikePorter-df5vl thanks for watching! Good luck on your project 👍🏻
@@jeffdeshong thanks .
Thanks for sharing the details like 3-2-1 and ordered vs consumed materials. Project turned out great sir.
"He who Dares, Wins." Keep going!
have you calculated your savings by this method vs. buying premix bagged concrete?
You do you, I’ve done the same thing with my inexpensive Princess Auto mixer here in Canada and it has worked out fine. Did a 12x20 workshop floor for my shed and everything is fine, small expected cracks after putting my cj5 in and jacking but over all, great.
Good job brother! We one man crews do exist and we work hard and figure it out if we don’t know. You got my subscription! Keep up the good work!
Harbor Freight orange model mixer motor dies to a dead slow -manuel spin .Any time it happens is a bad day. Any clue,what to do to restore proper spin strength?
Am I missing something here: a 7x8 foot pad x 6 inches = Volume = 7 * 8 * 0.5 = 28 cubic feet.There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. In Denver, a cubic yard of ready mix is $150.00 (Im assuming that the sand and stone had a delivery fee... as would readymix. A 10 yard load is about $120 / yard. 10 pads at @ 3 hrs - $30 hrs. I think cost wise its a wash or close.
Yup you’re missing a lot
Dude straight up I’ve done all kinds of jobs but concrete work & for what you did here just convinced me that I can make it work for my thing. I was wondering one thing though why such small amounts in the mix-up, it seems like the wheels barrel & mixer could’ve taken a lil more maybe.. is it the weight that’s the factor? And I do know the air pockets is a major concern of some, look into figuring how to vibrate it!!
The mixer can only hold so much at once before it starts overflowing. I tilt the mixer down a little, it mixes a lot better that way. For the wheel barrel, I tried more on a couple pads. It seemed to irritate my back a little more compared to more trips with a lighter amount. Thanks for watching!
Nice work! As a matter of personal preference, I would not broom finish a garage floor, it will make it very hard to sweep. Also, I would leave the edges square. Easier to roll around a creeper and or tool boxes.
@@Shedhunter2 thank you, and agreed
Did you price out what a cement truck cost? If you do the work yourself and buy the cement from them it might be close to the same price but take less time.
What you’ve done looks good, just thinking there might be a more efficient way.
Not sure what your using the platforms for but if your not driving on it I would just do 3”-4” thick and use premix bags. Would save a lot of time and effort? I like the sharp edge look! Any reason though why you didn’t round them?
Definitely going to be driving on it. Premix bags is a lot more work in my opinion. Didn’t round them just to save some work and time. I don’t really need them rounded. Just going to be a garage floor. Thanks for watching!
I’d think 6” floor is plenty good for pickup trucks and cars in a garage. Most driveways are 4” in my area. Naturally, if you’re installing a car lift the post areas will require much thicker support, but that can be done at a later time if necessary. Also, a single level garage structure won’t have a lot of load support needed for the post on that small of a span.
How come u didn’t go with pre mixed bags. Sand and stone is cheap but how did u got it home. I’ve poured a small sidewalk and it took like 60 bags.I had to load it from inside of the store to loading to the cub then unload it at home then had pick it up to load in the cement mixer. I didn’t know it’s took that much
looks great. I couldn't help but to notice the absence of any steel in your form (rebar). Also, the early shots of the finished pour appear to be blurred out, but only on the slab, nothing else. ?
In any event, good for you for doing it for yourself!
Hey, how's it holding up? Just kinda worried there may not be enough cement to the mix especially since there's going to be vehicle load. Not sure if the gravel makes up for it or not.
Thats smart with the rebar connection
This is amazing thank you for doing this video. How big were the bags of Portland cement? 80lbs?
Thanks for watching! 94lbs
You saved yourself a ton of money. A contractor would have been 2 - 2 1/2 times or more in cost. I know, I've done this. You get a nice product done in a short time frame, but it is not cheap. Keep up the good work.
Is there a danger of the concrete setting up at different times? Or is that not a factor doing it one load at a time? And how do you figure out the mixture needed?
genuine question: if this is for a house, wouldn't the separate slabs move independently over time?
Not for a house. And they will all be tied together with rebar. You drill holes and put rebar in when you’re pouring the next pad. No movement should occur
Thank you! A really good video. I think I counted 43-45 Ace Hardware wheelbarrow loads to fill the 7'x8' x 6" pad. Good knowledge to have. I must redo my concrete in my ancient shop/garage and I must bust up my old concrete. I don't have the money to pay for the whole project at once, and this poor guy will do it as I can.
I learned a lot from your adventure.
Nice looks good , I always hand pour my slabs as well in my area premix concrete is $2800 for 10 yards delivered which is horrible. But a few tips if you doing a garage you really should consider rebar #4 or #5 to tie all together so if it settles it will do so together and also have you priced out using 80lbs bags of sacrete? My last one I did was 12 x 16 it took 50 bags just dump straight into mixer and add water most home depots if you get over 40 bags give a nice discount I think my last delivery was $212 for the concrete and $75 for delivery. I think the tensile strength is like 3000 psi ?
@@alcapon-o3f hate working with bags and a lot more money.
Consideration for formwork next time.. FORM OIL (release agent).
Will make the break loose easier. :est chance of damaging your pad during stripping.
Also, I know you'er about DIY. What kind of price differential do you wind up with as opposed to going big and pumping the stuff in all at once?
Finally, have you thought about fiber or Helix rebar in there to make the pad more durable?
Haven’t even considered the price of pumping all at once since I can’t get a truck close. Concrete would be a little cheaper but I would need more equipment and labor to get it done, which would increase the price substantially. Thanks for watching!
I'm building a 30x50 shed. I was told I had to have a minimum of a 1 foot footing around the sides minimum 4 inch pad. What is the reason for a footing?
Great job. By the time you’re all done you will have worked out all the kinks. You could keep the mixer going while pouring your mix in the wheelbarrow, comes out easier.
Just curious. Do you need any permits or inspections where you live? I'm only asking because it appears you don't have to have a footer. I wonder if I can get away with not having a footer. Just bought a new house and was delighted to learn that I don't require a permit to pour my own slab for a detached garage. I assumed I'd still have a footer and a vapor barrier just for my own peace of mind. But if 6 inches and rebar can hold up and last a lifetime, I'm in. Far cheaper.
Both types of comments are really good for your channel. Crybabies will want to feed their egos and get attention and more mature audience members will love and appreciate your excellent work. It doesn't matter which type they are because the RUclips algorithm interprets both as being interest in your content and will give you better exposure either way. Well done, amigo! I'll be watching more of your videos.
Really appreciate it 👍🏻
This video gives me a little bit of hope. I'm wanting to do all the cement work myself for our house. About how much time does it take from when you first turn in the mixer to when you pour it?
To make one mix? Like each wheelbarrow?
@@jeffdeshong yes, or rather do you remember how many times you did a load and I can figure the math myself with that 3.5 hours
Actually. It's probably irrelevant. The main thing I would need to figure out is how much time per bag of cement, so I can gauge the time of the entire job that I would want to do
@@jeffdeshong So yeah, you don't have to answer that. Thank you for replying, though. That means alot
@@WindwalkerHomestead in the latest video I knocked a pad out in about 2 1/2 hours. It was a little over a yard. I think maybe 1.2. You could calculate how many bags for 1.2 yards and figure it out that way.
Good job. How do you determine if the hole ground is level , the 21x32 or is it just by eye
10ft at a time with a level
Looks nice. If you are planning to interlock the pads to make 1 giant slab you can drill holes in your form boards and run rebar through the holes. Then your next pad has rebar locking the first and second pad together. If you want them locked together so they absolutely cant heave seperately then take a 2X4 and run it through a table saw to bevel the edges 5-15o. The 2X4 is then screwed onto the inside of your form board around the centerline of your form board. You MUST bevel the 2X4 edges or else when you pour the concrete you will be cussing like a sailor trying to remove the 2X4 from the set concrete. The 2X4 will create a groove in the side of your pad so when you do the next pour the new pad will have concrete form into the groove and those two seperate pads are now interlocking.
If you want to go hard core then once you add the bevelled 2X4 inside your form drill holes through the center on the form and 2X4 to run rebar through. Your next pad you tie onto those protruding rebars and continue the process.
Critical thing... Bevel the 2X4. Trust me if you dont youll only do it once. As an apprentice carpenter i forgot only once. When you are chipping out a regular unbeveled 2X4 from concrete it is an unforgettable pain in the backside lol.
@@curtwarkentin2887 thanks for the detailed comment and suggestions. Check out the latest videos on this pad, I’ve done most of what you said. And you are correct on the bevel, although I did one pad that way with no bevel. I oiled the forms well before pouring and didn’t have any problems removing forms. Thanks for watching!
I need a picture of this beveling and interlocking 2x4 setup. I'm not exactly sure how you are doing this from the description.
Try using 5 gallon buckets for your materials.. very fast and accurate
If someone gives negative comments invite them over to help! Great job my friend.
@@vart7767 thank you very much and thanks for watching!
Running your mat wild by 16" would prevent the need to drill for tie in. Put holes in the form bards so the mat can run past. Just a thought.
It’s a good thought
@@jeffdeshongwe always drill slightly oversized hole and stick rebar halfway through, harder strip the form but it's a good connection
Can u explains what you talking about.
@@derpherpp3 the rebar grid is called a "mat". It's like a skeleton to hold concrete together. In a monolithic pour. "All done at the same time" all the rebar runs throughout. In a segmented pour your rebar stops inside the forum boards. There is nothing holding the slabs together. So you have to drill into the existing slab and epoxy rebar that connects the next slab. My suggestion was to run the rebar through the forum boards, preventing the need for the extra steps.
Ive had mine for probably 10 years now. Done a 12x12 shed pad, curb, sidewalks, stairs, porch top. All kinds of stuff.
2 60lb bags at a time.
Great piece of equipment. Only gripe is that it isnt tall enough to dump right into a wheelbarrow.
Very nice. I'm looking to do a pad and we found a mixer for like 100 bucks that is oddly enough the same mixer you are using. I think we have a plan now!
I was curious to compare your cost, effort & time mixing ingredients to pre-mixed quickrete/sakrete bags at HD using bulk pricing on 8/15/24 at $4.03/60lbs. Your 8x7x6" pad would need 63 of these totaling $253 + tax, same price. This would get you high strength 5000psi. I was considering something similar to how you did separate individual pours; 4 sections, 4 days for my 16x12 shed. Instead I got a concrete truck to deliver ready mix for $75 additional cost to 140 bags to really speed things up. One difference is the ready-mix will only be 3000psi. Thanks.
@@DJT_351 253 + tax is not the same price as the 200 I spend to make my concrete. I think you’re thinking of my total price per pad with rebar/wire mesh.
Have you considered putting some rebar into the sides that will connect, so you can attach each pad together so they dont lift or move in the future?
@@j0hnathan196 I have considered that. Thanks for watching
@jeffdeshong seems like it could only be beneficial, especially if you plan to put a heavy load on it. I'm watching cause I plan on pouring me some pads for my shed soon. Thanks for the content man!
Great video... interestingly enough I was considering pouring my own slab and this has helped tremendously.
Nay sayers everywhere. Just ignore them and keep your head up.
@@robertcanoy3991 much appreciated 👍🏻 glad I can help
Im about to do similar. This was good and informative. I think I'll set the piles of materials closer and put the mixer inside the form until almost full. Save my back from the barrow
@@luckyred1818 good luck with that
My orange freight mixer is 5 years old. And still works great. Slab haha I'm doing while driveway 13 x 20 1 slab at a time. Good job buddy. I hear you
I had one of those works good for wall building just about the right size when you get though entire barrel full time to take a break anyway and check the lines. Those 8x8x16 cinder blocks get heavy after go for awhile.
You made it look it easy and very well done wow! I'm convinced you might actually move at that speed lol. Questions...i'm doing a similar sized job soon but considered going with bags of concrete. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! In my area seems like bags is slightly more expensive. But less trips getting materials. I spend about $200 a pad for the concrete alone. If I were to use bags, it would be closer to $300. All up to personal opinion. Thanks for watching!
@@jeffdeshong Thank you for the reply. I will subscribe and about to watch part 2.
@@gregvanblaricum4204 thanks for watching!
Was that a 3/8 extension you pounded into the ground as a 2x4 stake?
@@maxdystopia674 sure was
@@jeffdeshong HELL YEAH Your my type of fella!!! Me and you would get along real nice, its that "get r done" mentality
Is it cheaper to buy bags of concrete or use a Portland mix. I ask because I am about to poor a slab in my barn. Videos like this are a huge help! Thank you
From what I’ve seen, making your own with Portland seems to be cheaper.
In some areas, the local rock is not cool. ie: NYS shale. As such even in small pieces, it works as a base, but in the concrete it weakens the result, and is usually a disaster. So, the two are not comparable. Concrete companies might sell rock for concrete, but they might be further away (distance = cost). And in East Texas, there is not much rock. So, rock gets expensive, whereas local contractors might be getting huge trucks in, and it might behoove you to use them. So, it's a regional comparison. And not an easy answer, as you also have to consider the value of your time. ie, the neighbor was a contractor, and had more work then he could do, so, even he outsourced the concrete work for a giant garage he built. So, it's basically a local research project.
The issue often is getting a pre-mix that has strength close to what you can achieve by mixing your own ballast and cement. Buy the rock/sand/cement and roll your own. It's fun anyway.
I did a 10x26 pad using the harbor freight mixer. It was a lot of work but it turned out well. Did it in 10x10 foot sections. It turned out great. I found that if I put the mixer in the middle of the square it was easier. The mixer mess was in the middle of the slab. Minimal cleanup. You did a great job keep up the good work
How do your separate pads line up? I’ve always had issues getting the tops perfectly level when I try to do individual pads that make up a single bigger pad
@@missinmachmakinmemories9429 I formed it like it was a 10x26 slab and put a form at 10 feet with notches for the steel. The notches were “V” shaped so I could lift the form straight up and move it 10 feet down the form Leaving a 6x10 section at the end. Because the two 26’ forms never moved until the end of the pour- I had no problems with level, straight or flow lines.
@@missinmachmakinmemories9429 note if you are rodding off the previous slab you need to add 1/8” to the bottom of the rod on the slab side to allow for shrinkage in the previous pour
Just wondering what you use in-between the pads, if anything? I know nothing about concrete but want to pour a slab for a shed.
@@LostandFoundFarms33952 you don’t put anything in between. Pouring concrete against concrete creates a hard joint. Basically the same as pouring a big pad all at once and then cutting joints into it.
@jeffdeshong ok.good to know. Thank you!
How long did it take you to pour all of it?
Shouldn’t you thicken the edges where the garage walls go? Also garage slabs are normally troweled vs a broom finish
Thanks for watching
How are you tying/locking the pads together???
@@hmdwn rebar
Nice job. You are a good concrete man. Is that the 3.5 cf mixer?
Thank you and yup
Good job. I would not have hand mixed at all, because when I do the math, here I can buy a yard of Readymix 3000 PS with Fibermesh ( no need for rebar! ) in it, plus extra for small load 154 + 70 = 224 plus tax. Now if I choose 400 PSI Readymix the price would be more, yet still removes the labor of mixing. If I mixed my own it would be real close to your costs, 240 for a yard and a bit. Otherwise your work is very impressive. Too for a Garage your design is state of the art! Great grading of the base/gravel, that needs be stomped real well for a longer lasting floor!
I was also wondering the cost(delivered) of ready mix, but to have a truckload delivered, one would need full forming and a placement/finishing crew. Of course the concrete would be consistent and no equipment needed. This method however, saves buying a gym membership. LOL. 😊
Well done! I'm doing a mini version of your project(shed) and have never worked with concrete before, so I'm surfing youtube looking for tips and also real world experience with the HF mixer. 2 or 3 of these mixers going at the same time and you could really crank projects out.
I actually thought about buying another one just for this project. Thanks for watching! Good luck on your shed!
I’m not a know it all and not in any way criticizing I drove a mixer for twenty eight years and can’t tell you how many times home owners put mesh in and leave it on the bottom of the concrete. That won’t do one bit of good. You have to pull it up as you go so it’s in the middle of the concrete. It looks really good also I hope all of those small slabs don’t heave differently and leave you with an un even floor. Looks like your gonna have a ton of water flow off that hill and under the slab. Again good job and good luck!
Should be in upper third not middle.
He was moving it as he poured
@@lunchlady2023lower third
Is it gravel..like bank run gravel or straight up stone? If so what size?
@@nate99z18 2b limestone
Thicker on the edges for frost line?
Curious for a dog kennel 20 x 15 you think 6 inches is to much or i can get away with 2
6 would be overkill, but if you ever wanted to use it for something else you could. I personally would probably go 4
Are dry pour safe to do. Or don't waste money
@@Gokywildcats11 I wouldn’t do a dry pour.
Did it turn out level over time? Sometimes it settles and it ends up unlevel.
@@HYTELES still level
Did the Harbor Freight mixer hold up? On all the other pads?
So far so good
Wondering why you don't need any footer around the edge ?
Whaddaya do if it rains on your sand? Is there any way to keep that dry
I cover it
It's it general practice to float the cream off?
@@clintlickner only the excess