Thankyou. Panic stations here until I watched this, diverted my wife's journey home via B&Q to buy a new diaphragm. 10 minutes after she got home - job done!
Excellent! Thank you! I had a slow filling tank with this fitting. I noticed when the tank was slowly filling (5 minutes) water was squirting out where the arm meets the valve. I stripped it down, as per your guidance. It all looked pretty clean, but I cleaned it anyway. I put it back together, making sure the notches were aligned. It all worked great, but then I decided to adjust the float. In doing so I must have moved it out of the notches, although it was hand tight. So I unscrewed it and refitted it to the notches and, touch wood, it is fine again.
Thanks, very useful. Followed closely and even realised I had one with the metal pin. Would have not realised that without your kind video.What I didn't spot is the little rubber plug had dropped out of the new arm. Assembled everything but water did not stop. When I saw the plug lying on the table I realised where it went - needed to block hole in the valve. Reassembled it and everything worked well. Here's looking to another 21 years of reliable operation!
Water inlet wouldn't fully stop even when float was fully raised. Changed the diaphragm but no change. Read your post and checked the tiny black rubber plug/seal and found it to be worn, so took it out, reversed it and put it back in the hole. Put it all back together, turned the water back on and it's working just fine! 😊
Many thanks. Helped greatly with a fault on ours. Thought it was the diaphragm, but ended up being a clogged filter in the inlet tube, it reduced the pressure so the valve never shut off.
Thank you so much for this extremely detailed and helpful video. This is exactly what I was looking for has having issues with the diaphragm in a new toilet excellent instruction.
Well explained, thanks. It takes a few seconds when the float has got to the top to build up pressure to turn the flow off, that stumped me for a while as I was doing it by hand and being too impatient
Thank you great help. Having forgetting which way it went in , and not realising it had to click into place eventually found your video and 5 min job. I could kiss ya !!
Thanks for posting this. Big, Big help when I had to take off the float arm from new valve (just fitted) to check what was causing a constant drip from the blue nut at the top. Probably hadn't put it together correctly at the start. All seems OK now. Cheers MrCrass :-).... Hope Lisa managed OK!
Thank You. I fitted the top half of a new valve onto the stem of an old one. Without your explanation about removing the little plastic pin I would have been stuck. p.s, I ended up using the old float and filling tube as the new ones were bigger and fouled the syphon and tank side.
I'm not a plumber but I managed to fit a Torbeck valve in a small cistern. What I can say is buy a new diaphragm as the one supplied was useless. It started dripping after a few days and it's because the diaphragm is not for purpose. They're a couple of quid and will save you a serious headache.
Hi, the nozzle on top which directs the water down into cistern has most likely become brittle with age. This causes cracks around the moulded edges of nozzle. you will have to get a new float valve. If the valve itself is operating correctly then just change the top nozzle over and save the rest of the valve for a later date. To get the nozzle off undo the blue nut slightly and pull off the nozzle. The nozzle has a small lip on it which holds it in place when you re-tighten the nut
Great video, I have an older one with pin so have taken the plug out of the new washer. However, when reassembled I just cant get teh water to run. Driving me mad, must be a simple answer.
My problem was that the white square plug divided into 4, just behind the top blue screw nut had come out. I'm going to try and dry everything and glue it in with superglue.
Actually a complete unit will cost you about the same as a diaphragm+pp and it is a good idea to replace the whole thing, apart from the basic connection. As Mr Crass says, the stuff gets brittle.
I have one of these valves in my toilet and the water has started spraying from the top (square holes next to the arm thing @ 0:06) of the valve when I flush the toilet which then leaks out of the cistern soaking my bathroom floor. Can you give me an idea what's wrong?
Can I ask whether a worn diaphragm would cause the toilet to fill constantly until the flow eventually stops? Sometimes it can take 5 minutes! This is my current problem.
If your unit has a steel pin but the diaphragm is the type that does not have a grommet, remove the pin and place the new diaphragm with the little plastic peg at 6 o'clock. Opella stopped fitting the steel pins about 5 years ago. Check your unit before you go shopping because if you get the older type it won't work on the newer design,
My valve was a simple one but had an odd characteric. It doesn't work like a normal ball cock. You can't waggle it and turn the water feed on and off. It will only shut off when the cistern fills to the very top. Don't ask me why. I spent a couple of hours taking the damn thing apart and reassembling it, thinking it was defective.
You took out the little pin, But didn't put it back. Does the little pin go in the little hole. Will it work without it. Maybe you could do another video with the pin. Garry
Yes, a valid point which foxed me too. You do need the plastic pin in as he says (but does not do) or it doesn't work. Also, don't make the mistake I did and try to poke the small pin into the small hole; it needs to be the other way around.
I bought one of these valve assemblies recently and being curious, I decided to take a peek inside. To reiterate, yes the diagram does have the hole insert with the little retained pin, so for this type, it should be in there! I’m here because I hadn’t noted the position of the pin when I took it apart - doh!! (Twelve o’clock position) 👍Thank you MrCrass36 for posting this video.
2:25. but then you proceed to fit the diaphragm without the plastic pin, into a housing that requires one!? You explained that the small plastic pin is using in housing without a metal pin, and the diaphragm with a plastic pin is for housing without a blue plastic insert and metal pin? Confused.
*.*.*.* 2024 .*.*.* Torbeck Inlets Rabbit hole today. Water wouldn't completely shut off after filling. Original float was sealed unit, and had water inside. New kit from Screwfix had open ended float/cup. (Couldn't wait for postage of parts £12) Also changed rubber diaphragm while open. Sharp pin-type mount. Seating the white cup before sliding blue slip flange over ensures lug is in.
Lots and lots of videos but this one explains the best.Thank you
Thank you boss, i was having existential crisis before fixing it using this video
Your instructions here enabled a 14 year old carer to do this job for her disabled mum. Many thanks from two families.
I have seen many videos about the ball valve. But you are the only one who explained about the notch in the valve. Congrats.
Lifesaver! After a frustrating half hour trying to reassemble the valve, I found your video! Job done in minutes! Thank you!
Thankyou. Panic stations here until I watched this, diverted my wife's journey home via B&Q to buy a new diaphragm. 10 minutes after she got home - job done!
I cant thankyou enough my husband and myself have been struggling to fix this valve after watching your video presto its done in no time ( top Man)
Excellent! Thank you!
I had a slow filling tank with this fitting.
I noticed when the tank was slowly filling (5 minutes) water was squirting out where the arm meets the valve.
I stripped it down, as per your guidance.
It all looked pretty clean, but I cleaned it anyway.
I put it back together, making sure the notches were aligned.
It all worked great, but then I decided to adjust the float.
In doing so I must have moved it out of the notches, although it was hand tight.
So I unscrewed it and refitted it to the notches and, touch wood, it is fine again.
Many thanks! Been shouting at the cistern for a couple of hours before finding your video. Fixed in five mins.
Thanks, very useful. Followed closely and even realised I had one with the metal pin. Would have not realised that without your kind video.What I didn't spot is the little rubber plug had dropped out of the new arm. Assembled everything but water did not stop. When I saw the plug lying on the table I realised where it went - needed to block hole in the valve. Reassembled it and everything worked well. Here's looking to another 21 years of reliable operation!
Water inlet wouldn't fully stop even when float was fully raised. Changed the diaphragm but no change. Read your post and checked the tiny black rubber plug/seal and found it to be worn, so took it out, reversed it and put it back in the hole. Put it all back together, turned the water back on and it's working just fine! 😊
Thank you! This helped me replace the washer and fix the problem in 5 minutes!
Many thanks. Helped greatly with a fault on ours.
Thought it was the diaphragm, but ended up being a clogged filter in the inlet tube, it reduced the pressure so the valve never shut off.
Thank you so much for this extremely detailed and helpful video. This is exactly what I was looking for has having issues with the diaphragm in a new toilet excellent instruction.
I've been struggling to get a plumber to replace my fill valve but after seeing this I realise I may be able to fix it myself ... thanks!!
Well explained, thanks. It takes a few seconds when the float has got to the top to build up pressure to turn the flow off, that stumped me for a while as I was doing it by hand and being too impatient
great guide, going to have a tinker tomorrow before work.
Thank you very much this really helped me, even the detail of the pin
Thank you very much mate, you are a life saver. Excellent video excellent explanation 👍🏼
Thank you great help. Having forgetting which way it went in , and not realising it had to click into place eventually found your video and 5 min job. I could kiss ya !!
brilliant clear calm and kool instructions thanks
Thanks for posting this. Big, Big help when I had to take off the float arm from new valve (just fitted) to check what was causing a constant drip from the blue nut at the top. Probably hadn't put it together correctly at the start. All seems OK now. Cheers MrCrass :-).... Hope Lisa managed OK!
Hey thanks. Your video for Lisa helped me clean and reassemble my Torbeck valve and stop a slow continuous overfill :)
Thank You. I fitted the top half of a new valve onto the stem of an old one. Without your explanation about removing the little plastic pin I would have been stuck. p.s, I ended up using the old float and filling tube as the new ones were bigger and fouled the syphon and tank side.
This helped me , thank you.
you are the mostest kindest
Thanks for this video mate
Thank you so much 👍👍👍👍
I'm not a plumber but I managed to fit a Torbeck valve in a small cistern. What I can say is buy a new diaphragm as the one supplied was useless. It started dripping after a few days and it's because the diaphragm is not for purpose. They're a couple of quid and will save you a serious headache.
Many thanks for this video. I thought I was going to have to call a plumber - even I can do this job :-)
Hi, the nozzle on top which directs the water down into cistern has most likely become brittle with age. This causes cracks around the moulded edges of nozzle. you will have to get a new float valve. If the valve itself is operating correctly then just change the top nozzle over and save the rest of the valve for a later date. To get the nozzle off undo the blue nut slightly and pull off the nozzle. The nozzle has a small lip on it which holds it in place when you re-tighten the nut
+1 You helped me save £70.
thx very much.
GREAT
Great video, I have an older one with pin so have taken the plug out of the new washer. However, when reassembled I just cant get teh water to run. Driving me mad, must be a simple answer.
Did you sort this, I have the same problem.
I'm not Lisa but thank you for this
iv got with the plastic filter and new washer but the water doesn't wanna run
My problem was that the white square plug divided into 4, just behind the top blue screw nut had come out. I'm going to try and dry everything and glue it in with superglue.
Actually a complete unit will cost you about the same as a diaphragm+pp and it is a good idea to replace the whole thing, apart from the basic connection. As Mr Crass says, the stuff gets brittle.
Just got a new diaphragm from Toolstation for £2.93
I have one of these valves in my toilet and the water has started spraying from the top (square holes next to the arm thing @ 0:06) of the valve when I flush the toilet which then leaks out of the cistern soaking my bathroom floor. Can you give me an idea what's wrong?
Can you replace this washer without having to take it out of the cistern?
Can I ask whether a worn diaphragm would cause the toilet to fill constantly until the flow eventually stops? Sometimes it can take 5 minutes! This is my current problem.
If your unit has a steel pin but the diaphragm is the type that does not have a grommet, remove the pin and place the new diaphragm with the little plastic peg at 6 o'clock. Opella stopped fitting the steel pins about 5 years ago. Check your unit before you go shopping because if you get the older type it won't work on the newer design,
My valve was a simple one but had an odd characteric. It doesn't work like a normal ball cock. You can't waggle it and turn the water feed on and off.
It will only shut off when the cistern fills to the very top. Don't ask me why. I spent a couple of hours taking the damn thing apart and reassembling it, thinking it was defective.
👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️
mine dsnt stop water. i checked all from video any ideas?
for all who is having this problem... pls do clean blue part from inside (scale) has to be very clean -thread
You took out the little pin, But didn't put it back. Does the little pin go in the little hole.
Will it work without it. Maybe you could do another video with the pin.
Garry
Great
Yes, a valid point which foxed me too. You do need the plastic pin in as he says (but does not do) or it doesn't work. Also, don't make the mistake I did and try to poke the small pin into the small hole; it needs to be the other way around.
I bought one of these valve assemblies recently and being curious, I decided to take a peek inside.
To reiterate, yes the diagram does have the hole insert with the little retained pin, so for this type, it should be in there!
I’m here because I hadn’t noted the position of the pin when I took it apart - doh!!
(Twelve o’clock position) 👍Thank you MrCrass36 for posting this video.
2:25. but then you proceed to fit the diaphragm without the plastic pin, into a housing that requires one!? You explained that the small plastic pin is using in housing without a metal pin, and the diaphragm with a plastic pin is for housing without a blue plastic insert and metal pin? Confused.
Confused me too
*.*.*.* 2024 .*.*.*
Torbeck Inlets Rabbit hole today. Water wouldn't completely shut off after filling.
Original float was sealed unit, and had water inside. New kit from Screwfix had open ended float/cup. (Couldn't wait for postage of parts £12)
Also changed rubber diaphragm while open. Sharp pin-type mount.
Seating the white cup before sliding blue slip flange over ensures lug is in.