Great job John! I was waiting for this video. Yesterday 6/28/23 I replaced one of those but I didn't have any problems because the compressor connections were not corroded.
hey guys got a stupid question if you could help me out. Im in california, had a tech come out they checked my freon levels all is good the outside condensor is clean, new filters, new thermostat, it blows cold but not like it use to it lost about 3-4 degree of cooling I use to set it at 76 and that would keep the house very comfortable if i went below that it got to cold. now I have to set it at 73 and it wont shut off cause cant keep up. the tech showed me a trick if i go wet the outside condensor it will blow super cold for about 15min and the system will get down to 72 shutoff and then kick back on when it hits 73 but stays running but not blowing super cold. like it lost its cold bite....any ideas why wetting the outside unit does the trick and what can be a possible issue? please and thank you in advance. thank you john I value your content, you wisdom...
Wetting the outside coil lowers the pressures in the system in turn lowering your suction pressure making your suction temperature lower. I'd ask for a tech to check freon levels again and show what your superheat and subcooling levels are to make sure the system is charged correctly. Be sure EVAP coil is clean, filters are not clogged and your blower wheel is clean.
make sure the condenser coil is clean, many of them are very hard to clean deep inside and will look mostly clean, when they're dirty. if your anywhere near ocean "salt" water, it will corrode the tubing/fin s and ruin heat transfer. also take into account ambient temperatures and "humidity", then factor in all your indoor activities/heat sources/number of people/appliances/windows/insulation/roofing/air leaks. it all adds up fast. as well as what the other commenter mentioned. 🧐
Hvac tech and installer here I hate those compressors Hardest ones to take out sometimes Would much rather work on a Goodman compressor lol Trane units are a pain period, how about the indoor blower motor 🙄 got that stupid plastic case around them 😂 Hate trane 😂 my house will be a carrier
rotolock a.k.a. rotoleak. but in all honesty many of the leaks are likely from being brazed(heated to the moon), with gaskets/stem in place and not pulled apart/cooled... although not being re-torqued after handling and heating, followed by years of rust jacking can do the same. rust kills 😎
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Catch Me [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KxwEXXFQMTY/mqdefault.jpg)
My hero
Great job John! I was waiting for this video. Yesterday 6/28/23 I replaced one of those but I didn't have any problems because the compressor connections were not corroded.
John
Nice professional repair
Sweet great job John she’s live again.
Nice job man
A little bit of Appliance Pros music at the end! Nice fix!!
Been Waitin on this one, we’ve been busy
Why would you replace that? What causes it?
What brand do you sell now?
hey guys got a stupid question if you could help me out. Im in california, had a tech come out they checked my freon levels all is good the outside condensor is clean, new filters, new thermostat, it blows cold but not like it use to it lost about 3-4 degree of cooling I use to set it at 76 and that would keep the house very comfortable if i went below that it got to cold. now I have to set it at 73 and it wont shut off cause cant keep up. the tech showed me a trick if i go wet the outside condensor it will blow super cold for about 15min and the system will get down to 72 shutoff and then kick back on when it hits 73 but stays running but not blowing super cold. like it lost its cold bite....any ideas why wetting the outside unit does the trick and what can be a possible issue? please and thank you in advance. thank you john I value your content, you wisdom...
Wetting the outside coil lowers the pressures in the system in turn lowering your suction pressure making your suction temperature lower. I'd ask for a tech to check freon levels again and show what your superheat and subcooling levels are to make sure the system is charged correctly. Be sure EVAP coil is clean, filters are not clogged and your blower wheel is clean.
make sure the condenser coil is clean, many of them are very hard to clean deep inside and will look mostly clean, when they're dirty. if your anywhere near ocean "salt" water, it will corrode the tubing/fin s and ruin heat transfer. also take into account ambient temperatures and "humidity", then factor in all your indoor activities/heat sources/number of people/appliances/windows/insulation/roofing/air leaks. it all adds up fast. as well as what the other commenter mentioned. 🧐
K guys thank you for your help will check all this great info and check back really appreciate it.
Awesome 😎 job excellent work you saved tbat unit.
That's what separates the men from the boys! Great job!
Get a clue
John, was this the job where the customer was told they needed a new unit? Your info was then given to the customer?
Yes
Awesome job !
Nice 👍🏼 😊
Hvac tech and installer here
I hate those compressors
Hardest ones to take out sometimes
Would much rather work on a Goodman compressor lol
Trane units are a pain period, how about the indoor blower motor 🙄 got that stupid plastic case around them 😂
Hate trane 😂 my house will be a carrier
💪😎👍
rotolock a.k.a. rotoleak. but in all honesty many of the leaks are likely from being brazed(heated to the moon), with gaskets/stem in place and not pulled apart/cooled...
although not being re-torqued after handling and heating, followed by years of rust jacking can do the same. rust kills 😎
you broke it because you thought you were working on plumbing and used a pipe wrench lol
Good reply