Hi Seven! If it were me I would take advantage of the strength and put your holding tanks on the inside of the trailer, build boxes around them or make raised floors to house them. We have our fresh water tank under the bed. You can insulate the tanks that way too!
Also since you have gaps between sheets on the walls make chase ways at the top of the wall and run all your wiring and such in the raceway. Drop the top sheet of plywood down to eliminate the gap in the middle of the wall. By building your tanks into your design you still keep your weight on the floor and only have to make drain holes for them. Try not to change the integrity of the framing. Good luck.
I would be extremely worried about theft too. That trailer is a sitting duck sitting on the street like that. I would suggest jacking up one side and taking the tires off And storing them inside the trailer. Kind of hard to steal a trailer that doesn't have wheels.
My concern is whether the wire passing through metal holes have grommets. Glad you showed the interior without the ply if I get a trailer from them or another company I won't have them install the plywood there's not enough material for a screw to get a good bite into.
It seems like cutting and welding is by far the easiest. I'd also think it would be just fine to cut one steel tube, and use wood to frame it out. Use corner brackets to attach the wood to the metal. For the greywater tank underneath, use a 10-12" PVC pipe and build your own tank. A 7-foot long, 12" diameter pipe would hold about 28 gallons of water. You could connect multiple to make a larger tank. Keep your freshwater tank inside. Love your build.
I also made my doors and windows for my trailer, I didn't want to cut the studs. My living room windows are 60 in tall and 14 and a half inches wide. You could do a similar thing it would just be about 10 inches wide. I got it down so they go pretty quick, happy to share.
I'm still trying to figure out why you just didn't buy a nice used toyhauler already built out! My 1st RV was a 2005 FR Sierra toyhauler & she was built like a tank. % years traveled all over the southwest with zero issues. Same floorplan as your plan - Queen Bedroom up front, bathroom, kitchen/living room. I loved taking it to the beach & putting the rear ramp down level with the rest of the trailer for a patio. It was a great rig & all ready to go! :)
Seven, it might be too late, but I would really encourage you to paint all of that steel framing. It's got surface rust on it already and there are welds that are not cleaned or painted. The trailer will rust from the inside out. Look up history and problems with any of the steel framed RVs (I had a Pace Arrow that was steel framed) and the structure was not painted before it was built out, rusted to the point that it became unusable.
🤔 Is Standard Framing: 18” or 16” COC? The 12” increase the framing weight by about a third. A strategy of 16” framing using heavier gauge tubing might have solved the structural at some weight savings. The 12” COC will also effect future under mounted tankage options. I hadn’t seen the diagonal cross bracing before, but it makes sense to reduce the racking of walls of this long trailer. 👍 The standard 14” square for standard vent fans are normally in Vee section (useless for solar PV panels) and at the back. This allows for one reversible supply and exhaust for cross ventilation. Smaller vent openings can be located for kitchen and bathrooms, even houses don’t require 14” ducting. Consideration for mounting and entry of a mini split HVAC refrigerant and shared PV panel conductors in the Front Vee section during construction could have saved time and complexity down the road. and reduced roof penetrations. The mini split HVAC are superior to roof top HVAC for both internal and exterior noise, electrical efficiency, and a heat pump function which can heat down to -4 DEGF outside ambient temperature (EG4 makes 9, 12, & 24K BTU units, powered by AC, DC, and some Solar Hybrids). I wonder if the liner thickness of the panels could have been preordered and left predrilled with Tee Nuts but left uninstalled to speed up the insulation and prewiring. I would have asked that the plywood be cut to stagger the seams to avoid four seems meeting “corner to corner” to again increase structural rigidity. I was sorry to hear about your truck’s theft. Congratulations for increasing your trailer’s security. Unobtrusively placed air tags for easily lost or pilfered items (vehicle, eBikes or motorcycles, drones, generators, etc) will allow geolocation of these objects. Simply Safe makes an excellent affordable, wireless security system which connects directly to one’s cell phone 📲, tablet, or computer (monitorin service, though an option, is not required). A complete mini surveillance camera system with lights and an alarm siren provides deterrence without displaying one’s presence in a window. Window openings are the normal avenue of entry for thieves. Doors provide higher security and greater ventilation and light when open. Good luck on an excellent buildout adventure. 👍😎😂
Tell me if I am wrong but is the trailer to low to the ground to install tanks under neath ? To fill in the gaps try that spray foam that expands to fill in the gaps .
They sell a product call ProFlex that I use on RV exteriors to seal up seams and windows and doors you can get it in clear black or white which most RV parts and service places sell.
Maybe I missed you mentioning this. Has the Dodge truck been sold? And I'm sure you will give an update on your stolen truck and the progress on buying another one.
Im Australian and don't know what the rules are for you, but with the massive amount of strength built into the trailer, how is the weight going to play out when your project is finished. We have very strict weight and balance rules here. Good luck. 👍
It might be too late now, but you really should put some rust proofing paint on those metal studs, I see surface rust and anywhere there is a hole will rust in the future...cheers
I have seen some good reviews of the spray and canned Flex Seal products. You may check them out to help seal up the trailer from the inside out as well. Flexible to keep a good seal while traveling down the highways and even off-road. Good Luck. It'll all come together fine. You'll figure it out. Try to enjoy your new adventures. That's what this all is. I wish you the best of help too. :) lol
Your gonna want to seal those gaps. A mouse can get in a hole the size of the eraser on a #2 pencil. My personal opinion is thats a QC issue with the manufacturer that you just happen to find because you pulled back the curtain. That should of been sealed when they skinned the trailer. Take your time and dont over look thoroughly sealing up those gaps. A mouse can do a lot of damage if it gets in through one of those gaps. Man you really need to find a Horseshoe or something!
16" not 18" my friend. Most RVs are 24" OC for floor support (joists). I am going to have a similar problem in that, my Spartan (from Renown) will be 16" OC and my gray tank is 20" wide(30 gallon). That thin plywood is actually better than many cargo trailers at just under 3/8" or 9 mm. Did you figure out the "star" screw is actually 1/8" square drive.
They do make a 11" vent or they make a 6" round pop-up vent. Don't remember who it was where the guy built his bed in a cubby then a living room over it.
Contact a local Snap On tool man. More than likely they will have a bit for every need. As for the cieling fan you might weld up a square frame of the same size tubing and then carefully weld it in the inside surface only. Avoid welding close to the aluminum since you can burn off the paint on the outside. You should also use a bunch of wet rags above the steel you would be welding to help keep the heat down. Before assembling the skins on the outside they should have run a bead of sealant along the overlap to eliminate the gaps on the vertical panels. Who knows you might be able to carefully loosen the screws at each joint and run a bead of RV sealant under the overlap.
Seven check out "I ride tiny house adventures" on you tube. They are currently building out there second cargo trailer and how they are doing they tanks may give you some ideas. I also had some gaps in my cargo trailer and used some sealant made for larger gaps around the wall bases and used silicone sealant on the inside of the walls on the seams. Good luck with your build.
Are you following other RUclips builders? How about I Ride Tiny House Adventures? They are in the process of building their second cargo trailer. Maybe they would have some tips to help you out. You are having some terrible luck with vehicles! On the bright side, if it won’t start it’s harder to steal. You’re probably not in a joking mood but laughter is the best medicine.
I disagree on the gaps. When you buy an "enclosed" trailer, you expect it to be completely "enclosed". Regardless of what you're hauling, an enclosed trailer is meant to keep the elements out. There's really no excuse for 70+ large gaps in a brand new enclosed trailer, of any kind. That's really unfortunate that you have to deal with that on your new trailer. I hope they gave you a screaming deal on that trailer otherwise I'd be contacting them and asking for some money back.... so you can finish the trailer correctly. (Like they should've done in the first place)
I disagree those gaps are not ok even if you are just moving cargo water is going to get in and rot the plywood and cause rust on the steel. Sponsoring this video or not that is poor craftmanship.
Don’t put anything under the floor. You want all of that metal to instantly drip dry while driving in weather. (That why it has that weird ‘s’ shape). Build up the floor on the inside. Customizing the features as needed and doing all your insulation too.
Dude - houses are built 16 or 24 on center and that's with wood! That trailer is overbuilt, which I guess is a good thing if it's your house. I see why you learned welding.
Houses are sitting on a stationary concrete foundation they are not going down the road flexing and bending so this trailer is pretty much built the way they should all be built but most of them are cheap junk
Get out the rivet gun to tack down the sheet metal...but yes, chalk. When you ordered the cargo trailer, did you tell them your plans to convert to a tiny house? Just curious.
SEVEN IS STARTING TO DRIVE ME CRAZY. RIGHT ON THE HEELS OF SCAMMING MONEY OUT OF HIS VIEWERS FOR HIS STOLEN TRUCK (WAY TO GO SUCKERS) WHILE HE OWNS TWO HOUSES, NOT ONE BUT TWO HOUSES BUT HE COULDN'T MORTGAGE OR SELL TO COVER THE TRUCK!?! NOW HE IS CRYING ABOUT THE OVERPRICED TRAILER HE BOUGHT. I WILL KEEP WATCHING THOUGH TILL HE HAS HIS FULL BLOWN MENTAL BREAKDOWN, WHICH IS OBVIOUSLY ON THE WAY.
No plywood in front wall behind wall skin.Wood should be on both sides of framed walls in front.OSB is trash for such backer board.The screws will loosen up because they make the holes bigger.And those hole letting you ability to see daylight let’s water in in the front pulling in rain.Leaves you with rotten osb.This doesn’t really pertain to this build though lol
I know it's already 2yrs ago now, but it pained me to watch you quit after finding the 8 point bits instead of the philips bits you had been getting. All you had to do was use a flat head to remove those...
Regarding 6:33 in your video check out this 3-part video series on ordering and installing a gray tank (ruclips.net/video/rfO9WkHiS5c/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/qYYZawy1xAg/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/G6CqtF6yiXM/видео.html). For ruclips.net/video/G6CqtF6yiXM/видео.html view these specific timestamps (22:28, 25:19, 30:43, 32:31) for how the tank is connected. In the video plumbing is inserted in the space between the horizontal members (12" spacing on your trailer). The downside of this approach is you have less ground clearance. If you place the plumbing above the floor the tub/shower would need to be elevated - consider a Hepvo Waterless Waste Valve in lieu of a p-trap. The first video shows how to mock up a cardboard tank to help get your custom tank measurements right. You could probably store the fresh tank inside the trailer at the cost of storage space but gain the benefit of reduced freezing assuming the trailer is heated internally. Likewise, the gray tank could be stored inside and below the shower/sink but the shower would be quite elevated and a gray leak would be quite an odorous mess.
Sounds like you put your foot in your mouth when you ordered the trailer. Everything you’re saying should’ve been taken in to account when you ordered it!
Just to add Seven, if you haven't already checked them out have a look at ( www.provenlocks.com/collections/2-5-16-tailer-coupler-locks.) for a coupler lock. They are widely viewed as one of the best. I plan on getting one for my trailer when ever the border opens again. I see that Badge has already commented on the double Robertson, my whole trailer was put together with them.
I would use some of that Flex Seal paste on the inside seal the gaps on the walls period and then you spray foam on the bottom. However before putting the spray foam around the bottom of the trailer stuck in some steel wool covered with the spray foam steel wool keep mice and other Critters from coming in and eating the installation out
I have an Iphone on Visible plan that I am using as a tracking device; $25 a month. Unconventional but works; and by far the cheapest. Visible plan come with unlimited data and tethering on Verizon network.
Hi Seven! If it were me I would take advantage of the strength and put your holding tanks on the inside of the trailer, build boxes around them or make raised floors to house them. We have our fresh water tank under the bed. You can insulate the tanks that way too!
Also since you have gaps between sheets on the walls make chase ways at the top of the wall and run all your wiring and such in the raceway. Drop the top sheet of plywood down to eliminate the gap in the middle of the wall. By building your tanks into your design you still keep your weight on the floor and only have to make drain holes for them. Try not to change the integrity of the framing. Good luck.
For removing those star topped screws you can use a square bit they work great.
16” not 18” on center is normal but yeah you will have to have it professionally welded so they don’t break. Glad to see your doing better !
I would be extremely worried about theft too. That trailer is a sitting duck sitting on the street like that. I would suggest jacking up one side and taking the tires off And storing them inside the trailer. Kind of hard to steal a trailer that doesn't have wheels.
My concern is whether the wire passing through metal holes have grommets. Glad you showed the interior without the ply if I get a trailer from them or another company I won't have them install the plywood there's not enough material for a screw to get a good bite into.
I've never seen a 8 point star like that. You might just use a square (Robertson) drive on it.
It seems like cutting and welding is by far the easiest. I'd also think it would be just fine to cut one steel tube, and use wood to frame it out. Use corner brackets to attach the wood to the metal.
For the greywater tank underneath, use a 10-12" PVC pipe and build your own tank. A 7-foot long, 12" diameter pipe would hold about 28 gallons of water. You could connect multiple to make a larger tank. Keep your freshwater tank inside.
Love your build.
Rethink put the tanks inside. Skylights there the key. Those screws are double Robertson's yeah thanks to Canadian's again lol awesome video 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦
Can’t believe how rusted the steel is already, I’d be painting what you can get to!!!!
Those are for the 4 sided bits, the 8 sides just make it easier for the installer to get a bite on the screw.
No 2 I believe, square bit will work for those!
Take the same tube steel and some L brackets to make a frame saves you having to weld. You can just drill and use rivets.
The double Robertson's are common in trailer industry lol damn Canadians 🛠️🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦
Hi Seven, draw up a plan and find a welding company or two and get estimates to modify for the fan and tanks. Best done by an expert welder.
Welding the roof beams might be too much heat next to the aluminum cladding.
I also made my doors and windows for my trailer, I didn't want to cut the studs. My living room windows are 60 in tall and 14 and a half inches wide. You could do a similar thing it would just be about 10 inches wide. I got it down so they go pretty quick, happy to share.
I'm still trying to figure out why you just didn't buy a nice used toyhauler already built out! My 1st RV was a 2005 FR Sierra toyhauler & she was built like a tank. % years traveled all over the southwest with zero issues. Same floorplan as your plan - Queen Bedroom up front, bathroom, kitchen/living room. I loved taking it to the beach & putting the rear ramp down level with the rest of the trailer for a patio. It was a great rig & all ready to go! :)
14:31 These are Robertson screws. Use the square bits in the left corner of the bottom section of the box!
Seven, it might be too late, but I would really encourage you to paint all of that steel framing. It's got surface rust on it already and there are welds that are not cleaned or painted. The trailer will rust from the inside out. Look up history and problems with any of the steel framed RVs (I had a Pace Arrow that was steel framed) and the structure was not painted before it was built out, rusted to the point that it became unusable.
Before I put the plywood, can I spray close cell insulation the skin panel is gonna be all right outside
Top left of the adapter kit were the square drive
Those are double square head screws. You can use a Robertson (square) bit
Subframe interior and setup for shallow tanks under subfloor
🤔 Is Standard Framing: 18” or 16” COC? The 12” increase the framing weight by about a third. A strategy of 16” framing using heavier gauge tubing might have solved the structural at some weight savings. The 12” COC will also effect future under mounted tankage options.
I hadn’t seen the diagonal cross bracing before, but it makes sense to reduce the racking of walls of this long trailer. 👍
The standard 14” square for standard vent fans are normally in Vee section (useless for solar PV panels) and at the back. This allows for one reversible supply and exhaust for cross ventilation. Smaller vent openings can be located for kitchen and bathrooms, even houses don’t require 14” ducting.
Consideration for mounting and entry of a mini split HVAC refrigerant and shared PV panel conductors in the Front Vee section during construction could have saved time and complexity down the road. and reduced roof penetrations. The mini split HVAC are superior to roof top HVAC for both internal and exterior noise, electrical efficiency, and a heat pump function which can heat down to -4 DEGF outside ambient temperature (EG4 makes 9, 12, & 24K BTU units, powered by AC, DC, and some Solar Hybrids).
I wonder if the liner thickness of the panels could have been preordered and left predrilled with Tee Nuts but left uninstalled to speed up the insulation and prewiring. I would have asked that the plywood be cut to stagger the seams to avoid four seems meeting “corner to corner” to again increase structural rigidity.
I was sorry to hear about your truck’s theft. Congratulations for increasing your trailer’s security. Unobtrusively placed air tags for easily lost or pilfered items (vehicle, eBikes or motorcycles, drones, generators, etc) will allow geolocation of these objects. Simply Safe makes an excellent affordable, wireless security system which connects directly to one’s cell phone 📲, tablet, or computer (monitorin service, though an option, is not required).
A complete mini surveillance camera system with lights and an alarm siren provides deterrence without displaying one’s presence in a window. Window openings are the normal avenue of entry for thieves. Doors provide higher security and greater ventilation and light when open.
Good luck on an excellent buildout adventure. 👍😎😂
Tell me if I am wrong but is the trailer to low to the ground to install tanks under neath ? To fill in the gaps try that spray foam that expands to fill in the gaps .
Rodents will get into the walls where there are gaps and moisture will rot your wooden wall if it splashes into those cracks.
If you have a i-phone you can buy air tags to pair with your phone
Hi
I'm back in town now.
Lakewood.
I'd be happy to give u a ride to get parts if u still need that.
Peace, Dianna
I like that closer steel upgrade. The mod for your fan(s) should be fairly easy to source. Keep it up..
They sell a product call ProFlex that I use on RV exteriors to seal up seams and windows and doors you can get it in clear black or white which most RV parts and service places sell.
Maybe I missed you mentioning this.
Has the Dodge truck been sold?
And I'm sure you will give an update on your stolen truck and the progress on buying another one.
Im Australian and don't know what the rules are for you, but with the massive amount of strength built into the trailer, how is the weight going to play out when your project is finished. We have very strict weight and balance rules here. Good luck. 👍
Consider GPS for your computer too!
It might be too late now, but you really should put some rust proofing paint on those metal studs, I see surface rust and anywhere there is a hole will rust in the future...cheers
I have seen some good reviews of the spray and canned Flex Seal products. You may check them out to help seal up the trailer from the inside out as well. Flexible to keep a good seal while traveling down the highways and even off-road. Good Luck. It'll all come together fine. You'll figure it out. Try to enjoy your new adventures. That's what this all is. I wish you the best of help too. :) lol
Has anyone suggested installing a kill switch on your next vehicle?
Your gonna want to seal those gaps. A mouse can get in a hole the size of the eraser on a #2 pencil.
My personal opinion is thats a QC issue with the manufacturer that you just happen to find because you pulled back the curtain. That should of been sealed when they skinned the trailer.
Take your time and dont over look thoroughly sealing up those gaps. A mouse can do a lot of damage if it gets in through one of those gaps.
Man you really need to find a Horseshoe or something!
16" not 18" my friend. Most RVs are 24" OC for floor support (joists). I am going to have a similar problem in that, my Spartan (from Renown) will be 16" OC and my gray tank is 20" wide(30 gallon). That thin plywood is actually better than many cargo trailers at just under 3/8" or 9 mm. Did you figure out the "star" screw is actually 1/8" square drive.
They do make a 11" vent or they make a 6" round pop-up vent. Don't remember who it was where the guy built his bed in a cubby then a living room over it.
Want to say it was a 24 foot long buy 8.5 wide I'll try to find the tour video
On those 8 point stars use a square bit.
Have you tried using your square head bits?
That square head number 1 or 2 should take it out.
Contact a local Snap On tool man. More than likely they will have a bit for every need. As for the cieling fan you might weld up a square frame of the same size tubing and then carefully weld it in the inside surface only. Avoid welding close to the aluminum since you can burn off the paint on the outside. You should also use a bunch of wet rags above the steel you would be welding to help keep the heat down. Before assembling the skins on the outside they should have run a bead of sealant along the overlap to eliminate the gaps on the vertical panels. Who knows you might be able to carefully loosen the screws at each joint and run a bead of RV sealant under the overlap.
What was the weight of your trailer before you started the construction?
Square drive screws 1-2-3 are the sizes
Here you go:
www.mcmaster.com/screwdriver-bits/for-drive-style~double-square/
Seven check out "I ride tiny house adventures" on you tube. They are currently building out there second cargo trailer and how they are doing they tanks may give you some ideas. I also had some gaps in my cargo trailer and used some sealant made for larger gaps around the wall bases and used silicone sealant on the inside of the walls on the seams. Good luck with your build.
A little spray foam will seal that all up easily
Use a square bit 8/2=4
Are you following other RUclips builders? How about I Ride Tiny House Adventures? They are in the process of building their second cargo trailer. Maybe they would have some tips to help you out. You are having some terrible luck with vehicles! On the bright side, if it won’t start it’s harder to steal. You’re probably not in a joking mood but laughter is the best medicine.
So Seven no word from the police on your Truck?
I disagree on the gaps. When you buy an "enclosed" trailer, you expect it to be completely "enclosed". Regardless of what you're hauling, an enclosed trailer is meant to keep the elements out. There's really no excuse for 70+ large gaps in a brand new enclosed trailer, of any kind. That's really unfortunate that you have to deal with that on your new trailer. I hope they gave you a screaming deal on that trailer otherwise I'd be contacting them and asking for some money back.... so you can finish the trailer correctly. (Like they should've done in the first place)
I disagree those gaps are not ok even if you are just moving cargo water is going to get in and rot the plywood and cause rust on the steel. Sponsoring this video or not that is poor craftmanship.
@@michealfrench6488 How are you disagreeing with me? We both basically said those gaps are wrong. Lol
Sorry I was not disagreeing with you that was suppose to go in the comments not a reply to your comment sorry
@@michealfrench6488
No problem. 👍
Don’t put anything under the floor. You want all of that metal to instantly drip dry while driving in weather. (That why it has that weird ‘s’ shape). Build up the floor on the inside. Customizing the features as needed and doing all your insulation too.
Glad things are working out!
Dude - houses are built 16 or 24 on center and that's with wood! That trailer is overbuilt, which I guess is a good thing if it's your house. I see why you learned welding.
Houses are sitting on a stationary concrete foundation they are not going down the road flexing and bending so this trailer is pretty much built the way they should all be built but most of them are cheap junk
Seven try a square drive in those screws!
Why didn't you just purchase the cargo without the wood inside so you don't have to disassembly it?
I bet its a heavy trailer. Elephant hauler.
Surprised you didn't go with the expanding foam then you wouldn't have had to remove the ply.
Was hoping you'd pop up so we'd know how you are faring.
Get out the rivet gun to tack down the sheet metal...but yes, chalk.
When you ordered the cargo trailer, did you tell them your plans to convert to a tiny house? Just curious.
SEVEN IS STARTING TO DRIVE ME CRAZY. RIGHT ON THE HEELS OF SCAMMING MONEY OUT OF HIS VIEWERS FOR HIS STOLEN TRUCK (WAY TO GO SUCKERS) WHILE HE OWNS TWO HOUSES, NOT ONE BUT TWO HOUSES BUT HE COULDN'T MORTGAGE OR SELL TO COVER THE TRUCK!?! NOW HE IS CRYING ABOUT THE OVERPRICED TRAILER HE BOUGHT. I WILL KEEP WATCHING THOUGH TILL HE HAS HIS FULL BLOWN MENTAL BREAKDOWN, WHICH IS OBVIOUSLY ON THE WAY.
You'd think with all that framing that there would be less gaps... 🤔
No plywood in front wall behind wall skin.Wood should be on both sides of framed walls in front.OSB is trash for such backer board.The screws will loosen up because they make the holes bigger.And those hole letting you ability to see daylight let’s water in in the front pulling in rain.Leaves you with rotten osb.This doesn’t really pertain to this build though lol
I know it's already 2yrs ago now, but it pained me to watch you quit after finding the 8 point bits instead of the philips bits you had been getting. All you had to do was use a flat head to remove those...
Bathroom fans? Too bad they didn't use 4ply instead of 3 ply for the plywood. If you had ordered the bit from Amazon, you'd would of had it quickly.
I would use Flex Seal tape on the inside of those gaps and not caulk, it can expand and contract with temperature changes much better than caulk.
Check your email : ) use a no 2 square bit!
Regarding 6:33 in your video check out this 3-part video series on ordering and installing a gray tank (ruclips.net/video/rfO9WkHiS5c/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/qYYZawy1xAg/видео.html, ruclips.net/video/G6CqtF6yiXM/видео.html). For ruclips.net/video/G6CqtF6yiXM/видео.html view these specific timestamps (22:28, 25:19, 30:43, 32:31) for how the tank is connected. In the video plumbing is inserted in the space between the horizontal members (12" spacing on your trailer). The downside of this approach is you have less ground clearance. If you place the plumbing above the floor the tub/shower would need to be elevated - consider a Hepvo Waterless Waste Valve in lieu of a p-trap. The first video shows how to mock up a cardboard tank to help get your custom tank measurements right. You could probably store the fresh tank inside the trailer at the cost of storage space but gain the benefit of reduced freezing assuming the trailer is heated internally. Likewise, the gray tank could be stored inside and below the shower/sink but the shower would be quite elevated and a gray leak would be quite an odorous mess.
Sounds like you put your foot in your mouth when you ordered the trailer. Everything you’re saying should’ve been taken in to account when you ordered it!
Just to add Seven, if you haven't already checked them out have a look at ( www.provenlocks.com/collections/2-5-16-tailer-coupler-locks.) for a coupler lock. They are widely viewed as one of the best. I plan on getting one for my trailer when ever the border opens again. I see that Badge has already commented on the double Robertson, my whole trailer was put together with them.
I would use some of that Flex Seal paste on the inside seal the gaps on the walls period and then you spray foam on the bottom. However before putting the spray foam around the bottom of the trailer stuck in some steel wool covered with the spray foam steel wool keep mice and other Critters from coming in and eating the installation out
I'd be careful with EXPANDING spray foam in the wall gaps.
Check out Flexseal for water proofing large areas.
The 8 sided bits are known as hex bits,you can buy them as bits to fit your drill or as allen style keys
6 sided bits are hex bits. Hex= 6. Square drive bits fit the robertson screws.
I have an Iphone on Visible plan that I am using as a tracking device; $25 a month. Unconventional but works; and by far the cheapest. Visible plan come with unlimited data and tethering on Verizon network.
save yourself time and money just buy a travel trailer that is made for camping