Greetings fron Greece my friend. I had the same temperature issue and changed the thermostat like you did and it kept doing the same thing again. So I did a search and found this on a 207 forum. "The thermostat on these cars is electronic which is why you see the temperature gauge going up and down. They are controlled by the engine control unit. Since they require many connections and some insulators, they are larger and more cumbersome than the old ones. However, the mechanism by which they open and close remains largely the same in many cases. They are usually powered by one electromagnetic valve controlled by the engine control unit. The opening and closing of this type of thermostat can be controlled based on more factors than just the temperature of the antifreeze"
Can't believe you haven't upgraded the brakes, after the modifications, they are not that Brilliant from the factory, poor bite, fade after several stops from high speed, that was the first thing i upgraded on my GT CC turbo when i got it, and added anti roll bars, stops fast, no break fade, and handles like it's on rails, didn't lower it, as GT already has 25mm upgraded springs from factory
I have a 207 cc and instead of a BOV I bought a GFB DV+ and that gave it heaps more power after that I installed a Forge induction kit and a oil catch can after that I had to upgrade the brakes to forge also added a turbo timer then I had the stage 1 dyno done and now it's too fast
I had the same problem on my 207 rallye.. I was getting high turbo pressure and as a result the car was getting in safe mode.. But the problem was so simple and very common in these THP engines. It was the n75 turbo boost valve...ever since then I have no problem at all
I have Citroen DS3 1.6 thp 115 kw and it does the same thing with coolant temperature. Even before upgrading to air intake it did that. So I think its just speciality of those engines xD
Love the results and I can see u enjoy it too. Lookin forward to tune mine too after this. Just to mention ur doin awesome job on this car. Keep it goin man.
Hi Vucko, great video mate I have a question if you can help or advise. I have a Peugeot 207 1.6 HDi and it has 17" Hockenhiem GTi alloy wheels. I am looking to lower it was thinking 35mm but the back has quite a gap. I just can't decide I know 35mm is more sensible but after spending out money I want to notice a bit of a difference.
Hi, from my experience I installed Eibach springs 30mm and front it lowered 30-35mm, and rear only 15mm. If you think about buying coilovers then I dont know, I never bought them
Thanks, Yes right now my Peugeot is way quicker. I made a video of Lexus IS250 vs Peugeot 207 GTI before Stage 1 tune, check it out here: ruclips.net/video/wLsAAA6VWyA/видео.html
Could be numerous things, coil packs, plugs, camshaft sensor, egr valve, all simple, and cheap diy fix, check oil level, incorrect oil can bring the light on as can incorrect oils, but the biggie, watch out for stretch timing chain, that brings on Depopulation System Faulty to, any timing chain noises and it's time for replacement before the engine goes bang, generally last 50-80k before stretching, mine started to rattle on cold start at 55k
K03 but its not OEM, I bought it from www.neobrothers.co.uk/ on Ebay. For more details I made a video about it here: ruclips.net/video/vlE_299Vbp4/видео.html
I've had two GTIs in the past, and currently own a CC GT turbo, i change the oil every 5k, not when light says service due, they tend to burn oil, i find that i need a half liter top up every 1000 miles, use correct oils, the reason why many have problems is incorrect oil, which leads to chain problems, never had ECU problem, change plugs regularly, again using correct ones, only issues I've had are coil packs and camshaft sensors, but that applies to most modern cars, every 2000 miles i add a tin of Clean Drive, best fuel treatment i know, cleans everything, including carbon deposits, which can cause problems, and only ever use high octane fuel from Shell or BP. The other thing I've done on all of them is upgrade the brakes, the factory ones aren't good enough in my opinion. Never had any reliability problems yet on all three, but was very careful buying, checking the service records, and servicing as soon as purchased, using everything i described
@@tecker842 simple, insist on seeing it stone cold, any rattles on start up, avoid, or cost in timing chain and tensioner replacement, check water level, again cold, head gaskets and thermostats can be problematic, check oil level, if it's low, walk, probably damaged internally already, i check my oil weekly, and use correct oil. Obvious things like make sure clutch pedal at correct height, and not slipping, check front springs, can crack and break, I've replaced both mine last year, one was cracked in mount, uneven tyre wear can indicate suspension problems. Service history helps, but doesn't always mean much, there's good and bad garages. Then take for a good run, make sure not smoking, check inside tail pipe, if its black beware, probably burning oil, check electrics, although I've not had problems i know many who have. Good ones are fantastic cars, bad ones are a money pit. Hope that helps
Greetings fron Greece my friend. I had the same temperature issue and changed the thermostat like you did and it kept doing the same thing again. So I did a search and found this on a 207 forum.
"The thermostat on these cars is electronic which is why you see the temperature gauge going up and down. They are controlled by the engine control unit. Since they require many connections and some insulators, they are larger and more cumbersome than the old ones. However, the mechanism by which they open and close remains largely the same in many cases. They are usually powered by one electromagnetic valve controlled by the engine control unit. The opening and closing of this type of thermostat can be controlled based on more factors than just the temperature of the antifreeze"
Thats a lot of power gain for this car, the difference is definitely noticable.
Can't believe you haven't upgraded the brakes, after the modifications, they are not that Brilliant from the factory, poor bite, fade after several stops from high speed, that was the first thing i upgraded on my GT CC turbo when i got it, and added anti roll bars, stops fast, no break fade, and handles like it's on rails, didn't lower it, as GT already has 25mm upgraded springs from factory
Excellent mate . Thanks for sharing your performance . from Australia
I have a 207 cc and instead of a BOV I bought a GFB DV+ and that gave it heaps more power after that I installed a Forge induction kit and a oil catch can after that I had to upgrade the brakes to forge also added a turbo timer then I had the stage 1 dyno done and now it's too fast
Finally! I had mine tuned but because of some upgrades I'm getting a high turbo pressure alarm, so I need to retune next week!
I forgot to mention mine with Stage 1 didn't go above 1bar of boost. Good luck hope you will fix it!
I had the same problem on my 207 rallye.. I was getting high turbo pressure and as a result the car was getting in safe mode.. But the problem was so simple and very common in these THP engines. It was the n75 turbo boost valve...ever since then I have no problem at all
Lets do the RR Racing remap for the Lexus next
I have Citroen DS3 1.6 thp 115 kw and it does the same thing with coolant temperature. Even before upgrading to air intake it did that. So I think its just speciality of those engines xD
This is the best comparison I've seen
I love your video quality! I'm looking forward to buy a 207 SW RC 👀
I'm sooo excited!
Love the results and I can see u enjoy it too. Lookin forward to tune mine too after this. Just to mention ur doin awesome job on this car. Keep it goin man.
Thanks, I have plenty of interesting videos coming, and yeah I do enjoy it!
💪🏾
good job : )
Love your car, you should stop accelerate her before 4000 rpm ! you gonna kill that turbo
Dude! I gave mine angel eye headlights! You should do the same!
Nice power increase
Hi Vucko, great video mate I have a question if you can help or advise. I have a Peugeot 207 1.6 HDi and it has 17" Hockenhiem GTi alloy wheels. I am looking to lower it was thinking 35mm but the back has quite a gap. I just can't decide I know 35mm is more sensible but after spending out money I want to notice a bit of a difference.
Hi, from my experience I installed Eibach springs 30mm and front it lowered 30-35mm, and rear only 15mm. If you think about buying coilovers then I dont know, I never bought them
Great video.
Would you say the Peugeot is quicker than the 250?
Thanks,
Yes right now my Peugeot is way quicker. I made a video of Lexus IS250 vs Peugeot 207 GTI before Stage 1 tune, check it out here:
ruclips.net/video/wLsAAA6VWyA/видео.html
Awsome, has the depolution light stayed off since? Mine has just come on :'(
Nope, still no depolution system faulty. Sad to hear about your case :/
Could be numerous things, coil packs, plugs, camshaft sensor, egr valve, all simple, and cheap diy fix, check oil level, incorrect oil can bring the light on as can incorrect oils, but the biggie, watch out for stretch timing chain, that brings on Depopulation System Faulty to, any timing chain noises and it's time for replacement before the engine goes bang, generally last 50-80k before stretching, mine started to rattle on cold start at 55k
What turbo is that?
K03 but its not OEM, I bought it from www.neobrothers.co.uk/ on Ebay.
For more details I made a video about it here:
ruclips.net/video/vlE_299Vbp4/видео.html
And what’s Corolla ?
You dont have a lion on rims :(
any changes for handling improvement? suspension/ antiroll bars/ diff?
Only Eibach 30mm lowering springs
@@VuckoHD with stock suspension? isnt it lower but softer than stock?
How many seconds to 100kmp with stage1?
I will make a 0-100kmh video this summer so stay tuned. I think it can do around 6.5-7.0 seconds
400e? Tacno nasi tuneri se bodu
hi, do you still own a Peugeot 207?
Yes
Put some nitrous on it 😅
These are very cheap in the UK, I've heard they are very very bad reliability and have ECU problems
I've had two GTIs in the past, and currently own a CC GT turbo, i change the oil every 5k, not when light says service due, they tend to burn oil, i find that i need a half liter top up every 1000 miles, use correct oils, the reason why many have problems is incorrect oil, which leads to chain problems, never had ECU problem, change plugs regularly, again using correct ones, only issues I've had are coil packs and camshaft sensors, but that applies to most modern cars, every 2000 miles i add a tin of Clean Drive, best fuel treatment i know, cleans everything, including carbon deposits, which can cause problems, and only ever use high octane fuel from Shell or BP. The other thing I've done on all of them is upgrade the brakes, the factory ones aren't good enough in my opinion. Never had any reliability problems yet on all three, but was very careful buying, checking the service records, and servicing as soon as purchased, using everything i described
@@richyclubsport5155 im about to purchase a gti on 86000 miles, whats the first things i should do ?
@@tecker842 simple, insist on seeing it stone cold, any rattles on start up, avoid, or cost in timing chain and tensioner replacement, check water level, again cold, head gaskets and thermostats can be problematic, check oil level, if it's low, walk, probably damaged internally already, i check my oil weekly, and use correct oil. Obvious things like make sure clutch pedal at correct height, and not slipping, check front springs, can crack and break, I've replaced both mine last year, one was cracked in mount, uneven tyre wear can indicate suspension problems. Service history helps, but doesn't always mean much, there's good and bad garages. Then take for a good run, make sure not smoking, check inside tail pipe, if its black beware, probably burning oil, check electrics, although I've not had problems i know many who have. Good ones are fantastic cars, bad ones are a money pit. Hope that helps
Why do you drive in the middle lane?