For setting rubbing brakes, cut a piece of paper approx 1” by 2”, fold it in half lengthways, and put it over the rotor where the calliper will sit, then put the calliper on with the paper still there (so the pads will touch the paper instead of the rotor when pressed), set the brakes the same as you did (loosening the calliper and squeezing the brake lever) then remove the paper, it adds a gap the same width as the thickness of a piece of paper and eliminates any rubbing without impacting performance.
Great video! This Will help with my future disk installation. One tip, and maybe I’m too used to the professional bike Chanels out there but it was really hard to see in your garage without additional lighting or something to give a brighter picture. Hope this helps with future content 👍🏻
I today put a 203mm on my e-bike in replacement of a 180mm,I initially got the wrong adapter,but now got the correct one on and even within 3 short gentle down hill rides I can feel a benefit in addition power, so it will get even better in the coming few rides,well worth doing, nice video,, all the way from the UK.
Nice video. Part of my personal "trial and error" journey is eventually learning to snap a quick picture on my phone of things like caliper/bolt/spacer arrangement etc. BEFORE removing, making changes, etc. that I can then use that as a reference photo later if needed.
I also had trouble with the 'squeeze the brake' technique for alignment. Then I got a new rotor and it came with a metal sleeve to put on the disc between the rotor and the pad. With this, the alignment was dead on.
I put a 180mm on the front of my Chisel. Just had to add an adapter. It was pretty easy. Really makes stoppies easier. Thinking about switching out the rear too. The Chisel is a fast bike so I think the 180’s are better for slowing it down.
Looking fwd to the follow up about how you find it out on the trail. Was definitely something I will be considering. My Ripley is coming with Code RSC 4 pots but dunno what rotors.
good vid, seems like there should have been shorter bolts included with the adapter? rotors even new ones oftern need truing just like a wheel. park tool makes rotor truing tool, or a crecent wrench works as well. if you find your rotors hitting just in one spot like that, you can easily true it so there is no rub. cheers.
Did you purchase the adapter to match the manufacturer of the rotor or the caliper? I ask because I'm going to be putting a 200 mm rotor from SRAM onto an Ohlins fork that is native 180 mm. However, my brake calipers are from Shimano. I'm assuming the adapter has to fit the shape of the caliper but I'm not sure. Also, there are so many different adapter sizes from Shimano, it can be a bit tricky to get the right one. The only thing I know for sure is that I need an adapter that adds 20 mm (so plus 20 mm). However, Shimano's model designations are very confusing. Do I need the F180P or do I need an F203P. I can't tell which ones add 40 mm and which add the 20 mm I need.
Really good tutorial! I have XT 2 pot brakes and they seem to work really well for my slow style of riding. Both rotors of mine are 180. Saweet bike BTW!
@@50mtb44 I agree. Been riding consistently since 2004, and last rode the Sram brakes from 2011- 2014 (Juicy Carbons). They didn't have a very good feel, (spongy) and needed to be bled 2 times a year riding 2-3 times a week from April til' November here in Utah. I had Avid BB7's from 2004-2006 and those always functioned but didn't have the stopping power of hydraulic. (BB7's are still in use on my wife's bike and rock!) My Shimanos just seem to always work. My XT's have been on my current steed since 2015, and I only just "burp bled" them 2 months ago for the first time. I do go through a set of resin pads every 4-5 months on both front and rear. This is riding about 25-35 miles a week with 2,500-4,000 vert over that mileage. Maybe the new Sram G2's have gotten better? I would like to try them on my next bike (hopefully in 2021) but not sure I have confidence to abandon Shimano which have worked so well for me.
@@lazylearner967 Why switch when XT's are working so well for you? Sounds like you are riding a lot. Cool. Utah is a beautiful state. Keep putting in the miles.
@@50mtb44 a lot of bikes now come with sram brakes. it would be $500 to buy the XT four pot brakes and rotors. I have never sold mountain bike parts on craig's list or the sort, but I guess that is an option? I guess I'm just a shimano guy.
@@lazylearner967 Good to know what works. Rode Shimano for twenty years. Last few years, bikes came with SRAM (Level T and TL). Works. My 17 year old Shimano Disc Brakes on my 2003 EPIC still work great. Built to last.
It's your bike. You can do it by hand, but its your risk. Best to do with a torque wrench - so that you get even tension on all six bolts - and the disc spins evenly. Maybe you can borrow one from a friend or a shop.
@@50mtb44 Most decent local bikeshops find it no problem to check if a few bolts are tight enough for free though... Just fit it yourself, walk in and ask if they can check.
@@50mtb44 I learned it as a kid: If a LBS doesn't do small freebies, double check their work if you let them do something bigger. 9 out of 10 times, it was mediocre. Because they where often just in it for the money to begin with.
Whats up with a new bracket being needed? I mean, all the original bracket needs is to by pushed out 40mm so the pads are lined up just right with the new disc? And if you need two longer bolts, then get longer bolts, am I wrong here anyone? Thats what I am going to try, keep it simple if possible. Happy biking.
Just used the LEVEL brakes (2 pot) with 200 mm discs to ride MOAB (slickrock, porcupine rim, captain ahab). Worked great. Larger rotors helped. That said, I prefer a stronger brake for my weight.
@@50mtb44 i did 203mm front and back. Using mechanical (dual caliper) and it was so nice to be able to slow the bike on a descent with me being 250lb and tagalong with my 40lb+ kid
@@the_blair_bike_project bigger rotors does make a difference. From what I read, bigger rotors make a bigger difference than between 2 and 4 pot calipers.
Thinking about upgrading your mountain bike front fork brake rotor disc to a bigger size? Done it? Tell me about it.
For setting rubbing brakes, cut a piece of paper approx 1” by 2”, fold it in half lengthways, and put it over the rotor where the calliper will sit, then put the calliper on with the paper still there (so the pads will touch the paper instead of the rotor when pressed), set the brakes the same as you did (loosening the calliper and squeezing the brake lever) then remove the paper, it adds a gap the same width as the thickness of a piece of paper and eliminates any rubbing without impacting performance.
Great idea.
Great video! This Will help with my future disk installation. One tip, and maybe I’m too used to the professional bike Chanels out there but it was really hard to see in your garage without additional lighting or something to give a brighter picture. Hope this helps with future content 👍🏻
Glad it helped. When I go pro, I'll let you know. : )
I today put a 203mm on my e-bike in replacement of a 180mm,I initially got the wrong adapter,but now got the correct one on and even within 3 short gentle down hill rides I can feel a benefit in addition power, so it will get even better in the coming few rides,well worth doing, nice video,, all the way from the UK.
Cool. Still liking the larger rotor? I like the better stopping power - but I am using up brake pads faster.
Nice video. Part of my personal "trial and error" journey is eventually learning to snap a quick picture on my phone of things like caliper/bolt/spacer arrangement etc. BEFORE removing, making changes, etc. that I can then use that as a reference photo later if needed.
Such a good idea ... even if you don't need it later (often the case for me - but I feel better having it). Good advice.
Thanks for all the info. Im about to go from Sram to bigger Hope rotors and this is very helpful.
Sweet. I am a big fan of bigger rotors. Good luck.
I wish I would have found your channel earlier .
Thanks for content !
: )
I have the exact same SRAM Bracket and this was perfect! I received 4 bolts in my bracket package…
Cool.
Thanks for the video man. Brakes seem to be the one bike part that keep giving me troubles
Brakes are ignored by most riders, until they don't work. : )
I also had trouble with the 'squeeze the brake' technique for alignment. Then I got a new rotor and it came with a metal sleeve to put on the disc between the rotor and the pad. With this, the alignment was dead on.
Cool. Glad it worked.
I put a 180mm on the front of my Chisel. Just had to add an adapter. It was pretty easy. Really makes stoppies easier.
Thinking about switching out the rear too. The Chisel is a fast bike so I think the 180’s are better for slowing it down.
Totally makes sense. I forgot how good the 160 rotor was on the Chisel. It worked. But 180 front does make more sense.
Looking fwd to the follow up about how you find it out on the trail. Was definitely something I will be considering. My Ripley is coming with Code RSC 4 pots but dunno what rotors.
Sweet. My son's Trail Pistol has Code R brakes. He loves them. You'll love your new Ripley. Trail ride video (with bigger rotor) coming soon.
good vid, seems like there should have been shorter bolts included with the adapter? rotors even new ones oftern need truing just like a wheel. park tool makes rotor truing tool, or a crecent wrench works as well. if you find your rotors hitting just in one spot like that, you can easily true it so there is no rub. cheers.
good input.
Did you purchase the adapter to match the manufacturer of the rotor or the caliper? I ask because I'm going to be putting a 200 mm rotor from SRAM onto an Ohlins fork that is native 180 mm. However, my brake calipers are from Shimano. I'm assuming the adapter has to fit the shape of the caliper but I'm not sure. Also, there are so many different adapter sizes from Shimano, it can be a bit tricky to get the right one. The only thing I know for sure is that I need an adapter that adds 20 mm (so plus 20 mm). However, Shimano's model designations are very confusing. Do I need the F180P or do I need an F203P. I can't tell which ones add 40 mm and which add the 20 mm I need.
Sorry. This is above my pay grade. I'd ask the fork manufacturer Ohlins for help. They should have answer.
Really good tutorial! I have XT 2 pot brakes and they seem to work really well for my slow style of riding. Both rotors of mine are 180. Saweet bike BTW!
Thanks. Was a fun project. Always liked Shimano drive and brakes. XT is awesome.
@@50mtb44 I agree. Been riding consistently since 2004, and last rode the Sram brakes from 2011- 2014 (Juicy Carbons). They didn't have a very good feel, (spongy) and needed to be bled 2 times a year riding 2-3 times a week from April til' November here in Utah. I had Avid BB7's from 2004-2006 and those always functioned but didn't have the stopping power of hydraulic. (BB7's are still in use on my wife's bike and rock!) My Shimanos just seem to always work. My XT's have been on my current steed since 2015, and I only just "burp bled" them 2 months ago for the first time. I do go through a set of resin pads every 4-5 months on both front and rear. This is riding about 25-35 miles a week with 2,500-4,000 vert over that mileage. Maybe the new Sram G2's have gotten better? I would like to try them on my next bike (hopefully in 2021) but not sure I have confidence to abandon Shimano which have worked so well for me.
@@lazylearner967 Why switch when XT's are working so well for you? Sounds like you are riding a lot. Cool. Utah is a beautiful state. Keep putting in the miles.
@@50mtb44 a lot of bikes now come with sram brakes. it would be $500 to buy the XT four pot brakes and rotors. I have never sold mountain bike parts on craig's list or the sort, but I guess that is an option? I guess I'm just a shimano guy.
@@lazylearner967 Good to know what works. Rode Shimano for twenty years. Last few years, bikes came with SRAM (Level T and TL). Works. My 17 year old Shimano Disc Brakes on my 2003 EPIC still work great. Built to last.
Thanks for the video !
: )
Do I need a torch wrench to tighten it? I don’t have one. Or can I just tighten it with Allen key?
It's your bike. You can do it by hand, but its your risk. Best to do with a torque wrench - so that you get even tension on all six bolts - and the disc spins evenly. Maybe you can borrow one from a friend or a shop.
@@50mtb44 Most decent local bikeshops find it no problem to check if a few bolts are tight enough for free though...
Just fit it yourself, walk in and ask if they can check.
@@kjeldschouten-lebbing6260 good point. My local shop is awesome. Just backed up with volume,
@@50mtb44 I learned it as a kid: If a LBS doesn't do small freebies, double check their work if you let them do something bigger. 9 out of 10 times, it was mediocre. Because they where often just in it for the money to begin with.
@@kjeldschouten-lebbing6260 Love my LBS. Amazing people - everytime.
P stands for post 😊
Whats up with a new bracket being needed? I mean, all the original bracket needs is to by pushed out 40mm so the pads are lined up just right with the new disc?
And if you need two longer bolts, then get longer bolts, am I wrong here anyone?
Thats what I am going to try, keep it simple if possible. Happy biking.
You need to make sure your videos are in focus!
When I turn pro. : )
it's not torex it's torx
: )
Any Shimano brake,would be better than the "Level" brake
Just used the LEVEL brakes (2 pot) with 200 mm discs to ride MOAB (slickrock, porcupine rim, captain ahab). Worked great. Larger rotors helped. That said, I prefer a stronger brake for my weight.
... or die.. 😅
Been loving the bigger rotor on front. Added a bigger rotor to back too. 200 on both. Much better braking for me at 200+ pounds.
@@50mtb44 i did 203mm front and back. Using mechanical (dual caliper) and it was so nice to be able to slow the bike on a descent with me being 250lb and tagalong with my 40lb+ kid
@@the_blair_bike_project bigger rotors does make a difference. From what I read, bigger rotors make a bigger difference than between 2 and 4 pot calipers.