One of the best things about modern model building, whether you happen to be brand new or returning after a long hiatus, is how prevalent information is to help you improve by leaps and bounds. I recall a lot more esoteric knowledge that people refused to share once upon time. I pass on modern techniques with my dad and uncle, both still straight up little bottles of Testors era builders, and they are constantly blown away by the technical advancements that are commonplace and freely shared from builder to builder.
If one is on a budget, especially if you are starting out or getting back in and your tools are lost, and or seized from age, you can also get a number of these tools at your local “dollar” store. You can a variety of brushes and other finishing type tools there (tweezers, foam blocks, small cups to sort parts and/or to mix paints or even store mixed paints, etc......). Micheal’s is a very good place to get a variety of brushes and glues for attaching clear parts. I found a glue there that rivals mod podge and Krystal clear in both price and strength of adhesion. Of course there are still many hobby stores (bricks and mortar and online, such as yours) where you can get all of the above and more!
A great starting set of tools. I'd add cocktail sticks, cotton buds, some fine, shaped, metal files, and half a dozen small plastic cups with lids for holding parts. Oh, and clothes pegs to hold parts together.
Great, and i gree with you about basic essential tools. I built models, with exactly what you shown for at least 20 years, except the sanding sticks, i used various sand paper. I didnt buy an airbrush till 2007/2008, a badger siphon with canned air, model 200 i think. I did quite well with it, nothing phancy mind you. Anyway back to the bench. Thxs for the video.
Do you have a set order for which to view your videos for a beginner ? I’m overwhelmed by the number of videos and I’d like to progress these videos in a logical sequence ….
In certain cases I'll use the super glue for hiding seams instead of putty. Apply, smooth it out quickly with a qtip, let it dry, file, sand, and smooth out the seam. Not it's intended use but it works for me.. in some cases!
Nice video and spot on! Returning to the hobby after raising kids, career, marriage, etc, Any recommendations for a good pair of scissors? I have big Polar bear hands but still need a good pair. Thanks from a returning FSM magazine subscriber!
Tamiya manufactures three to four different kinds of glues. Just like Tamiya models, Tamiya glues are better. I wouldn't want to use other glues. Side cutters are more essential than hobby knives cause side cutters cut small or/and tiny parts much easier, and cutting without making mistakes.
Not that we're aware of. You make a good point: Accelerator is toxic. Use in a well-ventilated area, and apply it sparingly with a microbrush--never use the spray nozzle! Open the bottle, dip the microbrush, close the bottle. Touch microbrush near the superglue. The other option is to hold the parts together and wait for the superglue to cure naturally. The time for this can vary depending on the surface prep of the parts being glue, ambient humidity, and temperature.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine ,yep it's basically Aniline (toxic rocket fuel) with an added methyl group... don't know why they put a spray nozzle on the bottles! But you can use the rubber based CA thick glues that have a lower durometer (softer) to fill ejection pin marks, accelerate it and sand back smooth all in one go... but I hate the smell!
Nice vid. Great Jump in from ground Zero.
Thanks, Shawn. We're glad you found it useful.
One of the best things about modern model building, whether you happen to be brand new or returning after a long hiatus, is how prevalent information is to help you improve by leaps and bounds. I recall a lot more esoteric knowledge that people refused to share once upon time. I pass on modern techniques with my dad and uncle, both still straight up little bottles of Testors era builders, and they are constantly blown away by the technical advancements that are commonplace and freely shared from builder to builder.
If one is on a budget, especially if you are starting out or getting back in and your tools are lost, and or seized from age, you can also get a number of these tools at your local “dollar” store. You can a variety of brushes and other finishing type tools there (tweezers, foam blocks, small cups to sort parts and/or to mix paints or even store mixed paints, etc......). Micheal’s is a very good place to get a variety of brushes and glues for attaching clear parts. I found a glue there that rivals mod podge and Krystal clear in both price and strength of adhesion.
Of course there are still many hobby stores (bricks and mortar and online, such as yours) where you can get all of the above and more!
Good old Testors cement. That has been a mainstay of my model building since the very beginning.
I'd say we were looking at #13 the whole time; I think a cutting mat fits right in on the list.
Nice call!
Very nice tutorial on what is needed to build. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching. We're glad you enjoyed it!
A great starting set of tools. I'd add cocktail sticks, cotton buds, some fine, shaped, metal files, and half a dozen small plastic cups with lids for holding parts. Oh, and clothes pegs to hold parts together.
Very nice recap. Thanks.
Well ...I would add decal setting and liquid mask products to be ready for everything you need to build a nice model
One thing to remember when you get tamiya cement, the brush can extend to get the cement when almost gone.
Great video, i started a RUclips mideling channel a few minths ago, after taking an over 40 year hiatus.
Great suggestions
Great, and i gree with you about basic essential tools. I built models, with exactly what you shown for at least 20 years, except the sanding sticks, i used various sand paper. I didnt buy an airbrush till 2007/2008, a badger siphon with canned air, model 200 i think. I did quite well with it, nothing phancy mind you. Anyway back to the bench. Thxs for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Hey Tim- cool video, thanks for sharing cheers Liam
Glad you enjoyed it
Do you have a set order for which to view your videos for a beginner ? I’m overwhelmed by the number of videos and I’d like to progress these videos in a logical sequence ….
In certain cases I'll use the super glue for hiding seams instead of putty. Apply, smooth it out quickly with a qtip, let it dry, file, sand, and smooth out the seam. Not it's intended use but it works for me.. in some cases!
Nice video and spot on! Returning to the hobby after raising kids, career, marriage, etc, Any recommendations for a good pair of scissors? I have big Polar bear hands but still need a good pair. Thanks from a returning FSM magazine subscriber!
Thanks and welcome back! Take a look at our Tooling Around we did about scissors. ruclips.net/video/Eqp0vu9dPoo/видео.html
Does Elmer's glue count as white glue?
Yes, Elmer's glue is a kind of white glue
What is the king of all tools?
The ruler.
Tamiya manufactures three to four different kinds of glues. Just like Tamiya models, Tamiya glues are better. I wouldn't want to use other glues. Side cutters are more essential than hobby knives cause side cutters cut small or/and tiny parts much easier, and cutting without making mistakes.
Do I need all the glues?... Or one of those glues?
All those glues are good to have at your disposal. And when you run into the situation when you need them, you'll be glad they're on your workbench.
I'd suggest a chrome pen, I use mine all the time.
It's a cool tool to have, to be sure!
The guy who invented the No 11 blade should be knighted and then get sainthood.
Actual inventor will probably never be known, but is was through Bard-Parker company that the numbering system became standardized.
Get an airbrush.
Is there a super glue accelerator that doesn't smell like a monkey's butt and isn't toxic to all life in the universe?
Not that we're aware of. You make a good point: Accelerator is toxic. Use in a well-ventilated area, and apply it sparingly with a microbrush--never use the spray nozzle! Open the bottle, dip the microbrush, close the bottle. Touch microbrush near the superglue. The other option is to hold the parts together and wait for the superglue to cure naturally. The time for this can vary depending on the surface prep of the parts being glue, ambient humidity, and temperature.
I've read that isopropyl alcohol (you can Google this) is a good super glue accelerator.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine ,yep it's basically Aniline (toxic rocket fuel) with an added methyl group... don't know why they put a spray nozzle on the bottles! But you can use the rubber based CA thick glues that have a lower durometer (softer) to fill ejection pin marks, accelerate it and sand back smooth all in one go... but I hate the smell!