Keep up the good work. The DW788 scroll saw community has a hot topic of discussion about which is better - A Type 1 saw or a Type 2. The hardware you address in your video is one of the very few mechanical differences between the 2 types. The type 2 tried to solve this problem by making the threads of the bolt a bit longer and then use 2 nuts jammed together. Without blue locktite, I have still had this hardware come loose. Blue locktite is the answer. The only other significant difference I have noticed in the several dozen DW788's I have serviced is that the Type 1 (made in Canada) had wheel bearing grease applied to all the open needle bearings at the factory. The Type 2's (made in Taiwan) eliminated this step. I have found that the lubrication provided by the bearing manufacturer was just enough to keep the parts from rusting. Dewalt decided it was enough to last through the 1 year warranty period under average use. I am now encouraging owners of Type 2 DW788s to get some grease (not oil, not WD40) into those needle bearings before the saw starts making noise. The longer a Type 2 makes noise, the more parts are going to need replacing when you decide that you should have serviced it several months (or years) ago. Happy scrolling.
+Gwinnett Woodworkers Thank you. This little issue has been the only problem with my saw other than that, it's been well worth the money. I don't use it as much as I use to but it's had a fair amount of cutting time. Regards, Bob
Hey brother! I just gotta say thank you so much for this video! I owe you one! My motor had become very loose, and I didn't want to have to ship my baby back to Dewalt for a simple bolt tightening which would have cost someone a fortune to return for basic repair. I used this video to get to the motor bolts to tighten them down and she purrs like a kitten now even on full speed. It doesn't look like they went with Locktite on these bolts, not sure why, but hopefully never have to do that again. I was nervous as heck and shaking through the whole process cause i didnt want my baby hurt in any way bahahahaha... You ROCK! Thank you SO MUCH!
I've had mine for a couple years and it started making a rattling noise only at the high speeds. Your video was just what the doctor ordered. Gonna check mine and see if that screw is loose on mine. Thanks for this. I've been feeling all over the outside and listneing in various places to try to fins out where the noise was. Looks like this might be it.
Well, that wasn't it. Seems they changed the design. That area now has a double locking nut and its on top. It wasn't loose at all. The connections on both ends of that arm are loose, however. I'm going to look at it again in the morning to see if there is anything else that may be the problem. Looking at the innards of this thing, it is very poorly designed from a longevity standpoint. So what else is new nowadays. Might try to contact Dewalt to see what they have to say tomorrow. We shall see. Thanks anyway for the video. It at least got me to take it apart . Something might show it's ugly face in the morning. (besides me)
Well Bob, I looked at it again this morning. LOL. Had it completely torn apart on my workbench. Although that particular screw wasn't loose, pretty much everything else was. After having it all apart so I could see what was happening it was apparent that things needed to be tightened up. So, I torqued all the joints I could find and lobbed in some extra grease on the fittings. End result - it is back together and nice and quiet just like new. YAY! So, even though the screw you mentioned wasn't the exact cause, your video showed me what I needed to do to take it apart and ultimately get it fixed. Hopefully it stays that way for the next few years. Now if I can figure out what to do with the extra parts still sitting on my bench..........just kidding. :-)
Thanks for the video - some good info. A couple of things: one those are star screws (or torx), not allen. Number two, to get the table off simply remove the knob on front then pull the table forward.
Thank you Peter, I love that saw. I do a little Intarsia and I use it all the time for making blanks. I'll see what I can do about a video. Regards, Bob
Thank you! Sure enjoyed your video and it was a huge help. I was dreading, procrastinating really, following printed 'destructions' for this dirty little job. With your help I was able to do this easily.
I'm sure that many owners of that scroll saw will find that useful. Others have mentioned loctite. A third option (beyond nylon nut) is to compress the nut SLIGHTLY in a metal vise. It will make the threads slightly oval vs. round and the threads will compress against the bolt and not turn without considerable force. It will be hard to put back on, but it should resist coming loose in conditions where the other options don't work well. FWIW, the only time I've had nylon nuts fail was where they overheated and the nylon melted, or they were exposed to a solvent. Same thing for loctite. Might be a good idea to look at the condition of the nut.
+Barry's Woodturning Thank you Barry, This is a great suggestion. I'm going to try the Loctite and if that fails I'll try compressing the nut. I will be sure to look closely at the nut next time I take the saw apart. Regards,Bob
I have a type 1 scroll saw. I found your video and decided to clean up and insure mine was clean and in good working order. While doing so, the unit slipped out of my hand and fell. The wires came off the control module. I have a couple replaced but have that I don't know where they go. Can I ask someone to take a picture of their control panel or a sketch and send to me so I can go back to wotrk? Thanks so much for your help. Jim
Depending on the overall length of the allen screw would it be possible to install a nyloc nut on it. These nuts have a nylon insert in them that acts as a lock washer and if one of those would work you wouldn't have to worry about it coming loose again. If the screw is long enough maybe you could install a slightly longer screw if there is enough side clearence to warrent a longer screw and maybe then you could get the nylock nut, also sometimes called an aircraft nut, on. Just a thought. Love and Peace. Blessed Be. Doug.
Wish Dewalt would make a screw on access door over the problem area, loctite will hold but screws have oil on it needs a good cleaning first I fix the problem with double nut or some call it pal nut. Thanks for great video!
Thank you John, It can be a pain but it's worth it, I use that saw all the time. Plus once you do it the first time and figure it out, it's really not that bad. Regards, Bob
OK, there is a rule in my shop that when you drop a screw, particularly if it is a critical unique screw, it must roll under something out of site and out of reach. ;)
Pick up a magnetizer square (you can get them from Harbor Freight) as it will allow you to magnetize anything (screwdriver, Allen wrench, etc...) and then if you also need too you can de-magnetize the same tool.
I dread this job, but mine is knocking. I don't know if I have one of those thin wrenches. Have you ever used Loctite on that bolt/nut? I guess while in there I should look for other loose bolts. Thanks for the concise video. Will let you know how it goes.
@@RJBWoodTurner Opened it up, mine is different. That bolt you indicate as coming loose, on mine is a torx head bolt, with the torx head on the inside where you use the small wrench. On the open side is two nuts, one I'm sure is a jam nut to keep it tight. It seems tight on mine. Any thoughts where I should be looking for excessive play? It's getting scarier and scarier as I remover more bolts? Most of which are torx. Tom N. Carol Stream, Il.
Hello Tom, Without seeing the saw it is tough to guess. All I can recommend is to check the tightness of every bolt that connects two moving pieces. Also, be on the lookout for worn bushings in those moving joints. Apologies but my knowledge is limited to the issue I trouble shot on my saw. I haven’t had any more issues so I haven’t been back in there looking for causes. Regards, Bob
If locktite doesn't work you can always dimple the top of the nit and end of the screw after they are tightened in two places with a punch and it should keep it together
Nice idea C.J., Next time I have to take it apart will hopefully be the last. That's what I love about sharing on RUclips, all the idea exchange. Regards, Bob
I believe they are the same, I think they just took some weight out with lighter weight covers. Taking the saw apart is easy, it’s putting it back together that’s the tricky part.😀 Regards, Bob
Very good information. Speaking of information; I am about to purchase a small wood lathe, (12"X16") to be specific. I read about everything I can find concerning the mini and midi wood lathes. I narrowed my selection down to a 70-100 Rikon. Any thoughts on this particular lathe. Remember I ask!
Hello Terry, To be honest, I've never used that lathe so I don't have an opinion but I do have some thoughts. Does it have reverse or the ability to add reverse as an option? That might not seem like much but it makes a world of difference when sanding. Does it have variable speed? Changing belts seems like no big deal until you realize just how many time you have to do it in a turning session. Those are two things I wish my lathe had but doesn't. Also, how powerful Is the motor? Mine is small and Boggs on larger pieces, man is that a pain. Other than that, Rikon is a respected brand and uses industry standards so attachments will be plentiful. I have a Rikon grinder and love it so I wouldn't be opposed to having one of their lathes. You can turn with anything, you just want a tool that makes it enjoyable. Regards, Bob
The 70-100 does not reverse; it is not electronic v.s.; the motor is 1/2 hp. There seems to be a sizeable price jump when variable speed control is added and even more if the motor will reverse. I observed these price jumps in the same line of manufactures.
Thanks for posting this video Rob. There is some good footage here for when it happens to my same model machine. Let's face it, we know it will sometime ;o( Good to know what steps to take for the fix. Thanks, Ed
+Edmund Wootton Thank you Edmond, I hope it never happens to you but if it does, try a little lock tite on it. I never even thought about that until someone left it as a comment. Great idea and will probably stop the issue. Regards, Bob
Wouldn't it be nice if manufacturers would only use one size bolt (within reason) they seem determined to make it as difficult as possible to get into the machine. the bolt that comes loose is another example of being awkward just for the sake of it.
Thank you Daniel, Your comment was a forehead slapping moment. I've use Locktight on my car and for other applications but it never occurred to me to use it in my saw. Sometimes the simplest solutions are to simple to see. Regards, Bob
+RJBWoodTurner Loctite was developed to prevent fasteners from vibrating loose. You want the blue type. This bond can be broken with a wrench. The red type bond is very strong, can only be broken with heat, a lot of heat, something like 500+ deg F.
Keep up the good work. The DW788 scroll saw community has a hot topic of discussion about which is better - A Type 1 saw or a Type 2. The hardware you address in your video is one of the very few mechanical differences between the 2 types. The type 2 tried to solve this problem by making the threads of the bolt a bit longer and then use 2 nuts jammed together. Without blue locktite, I have still had this hardware come loose. Blue locktite is the answer.
The only other significant difference I have noticed in the several dozen DW788's I have serviced is that the Type 1 (made in Canada) had wheel bearing grease applied to all the open needle bearings at the factory. The Type 2's (made in Taiwan) eliminated this step. I have found that the lubrication provided by the bearing manufacturer was just enough to keep the parts from rusting. Dewalt decided it was enough to last through the 1 year warranty period under average use.
I am now encouraging owners of Type 2 DW788s to get some grease (not oil, not WD40) into those needle bearings before the saw starts making noise. The longer a Type 2 makes noise, the more parts are going to need replacing when you decide that you should have serviced it several months (or years) ago.
Happy scrolling.
+Gwinnett Woodworkers Thank you. This little issue has been the only problem with my saw other than that, it's been well worth the money. I don't use it as much as I use to but it's had a fair amount of cutting time.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for taking the time to share this. My loose screws were the motor attachments, but your clear instructions motivated me to go find them.
+Ted Sanders Thank you Ted.
Regards,
Bob
Hey brother! I just gotta say thank you so much for this video! I owe you one! My motor had become very loose, and I didn't want to have to ship my baby back to Dewalt for a simple bolt tightening which would have cost someone a fortune to return for basic repair. I used this video to get to the motor bolts to tighten them down and she purrs like a kitten now even on full speed. It doesn't look like they went with Locktite on these bolts, not sure why, but hopefully never have to do that again. I was nervous as heck and shaking through the whole process cause i didnt want my baby hurt in any way bahahahaha... You ROCK! Thank you SO MUCH!
Thank you,
I’m glad my video was helpful and congratulations on a successful repair.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you so much for posting this. I've had my saw for only two months and it started knocking. Was so happy to find this!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
I've had mine for a couple years and it started making a rattling noise only at the high speeds. Your video was just what the doctor ordered. Gonna check mine and see if that screw is loose on mine. Thanks for this. I've been feeling all over the outside and listneing in various places to try to fins out where the noise was. Looks like this might be it.
Thank you Don and good luck. I hope this is the issue and you get it fixed.
Regards,
Bob
Well, that wasn't it. Seems they changed the design. That area now has a double locking nut and its on top. It wasn't loose at all. The connections on both ends of that arm are loose, however. I'm going to look at it again in the morning to see if there is anything else that may be the problem. Looking at the innards of this thing, it is very poorly designed from a longevity standpoint. So what else is new nowadays. Might try to contact Dewalt to see what they have to say tomorrow. We shall see. Thanks anyway for the video. It at least got me to take it apart . Something might show it's ugly face in the morning. (besides me)
Best of luck my friend, I hope you’re able to run the problem down.
Regards,
Bob
Well Bob, I looked at it again this morning. LOL. Had it completely torn apart on my workbench. Although that particular screw wasn't loose, pretty much everything else was. After having it all apart so I could see what was happening it was apparent that things needed to be tightened up. So, I torqued all the joints I could find and lobbed in some extra grease on the fittings. End result - it is back together and nice and quiet just like new. YAY!
So, even though the screw you mentioned wasn't the exact cause, your video showed me what I needed to do to take it apart and ultimately get it fixed. Hopefully it stays that way for the next few years. Now if I can figure out what to do with the extra parts still sitting on my bench..........just kidding. :-)
LOL, Jeep those extra parts, you may need them one day.
Regards,
Bob
Nice fix Bob . It looks like a well made saw , I didn't see any plastic parts anywhere. Have a good one Bob.
+glen mckelvey Thank you Glen, It is a first gen do it is pretty well made. Now that Dewalt was bought out that may change.Regards,Bob
Thanks for the video - some good info. A couple of things: one those are star screws (or torx), not allen. Number two, to get the table off simply remove the knob on front then pull the table forward.
+Karl Becker Thank you for the info Karl,
I'm hoping by using the LocTite that I won't have to do this job again.
Bob
Yea I've wanted one of those dewalt scroll saws for a looooooong time now. Great fix Bob! I'd love to see some scroll sawing videos from you
Thank you Peter,
I love that saw. I do a little Intarsia and I use it all the time for making blanks. I'll see what I can do about a video.
Regards,
Bob
Great information and fix for the problem I just had! Thank you very much for the education and in-home remedy
+Chuck White Thank you Chuck,
I'm glad the video helped you.
Regards,
Bob
That is good to know Bob, thanks for the visual.
Thank you Lynn.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you!
Sure enjoyed your video and it was a huge help. I was dreading, procrastinating really, following printed 'destructions' for this dirty little job.
With your help I was able to do this easily.
+7SlotFever Thank you,
I'm glad my video helped.
Regards,
Bob
I'm sure that many owners of that scroll saw will find that useful.
Others have mentioned loctite. A third option (beyond nylon nut) is to compress the nut SLIGHTLY in a metal vise. It will make the threads slightly oval vs. round and the threads will compress against the bolt and not turn without considerable force. It will be hard to put back on, but it should resist coming loose in conditions where the other options don't work well. FWIW, the only time I've had nylon nuts fail was where they overheated and the nylon melted, or they were exposed to a solvent. Same thing for loctite. Might be a good idea to look at the condition of the nut.
+Barry's Woodturning Thank you Barry, This is a great suggestion. I'm going to try the Loctite and if that fails I'll try compressing the nut. I will be sure to look closely at the nut next time I take the saw apart. Regards,Bob
Thanks for that. I haven't had that knock with my Dewalt yet, but now I'll know what it is and what to do if I do hear that.
+David Krump Hopefully you have a newer model because I believe this is not a problem on the newer models.
Bob
I have a type 1 scroll saw. I found your video and decided to clean up and insure mine was clean and in good working order. While doing so, the unit slipped out of my hand and fell. The wires came off the control module. I have a couple replaced but have that I don't know where they go. Can I ask someone to take a picture of their control panel or a sketch and send to me so I can go back to wotrk?
Thanks so much for your help.
Jim
That was an interesting fix. Thanks for showing us how it's done.
Thank Ron.
Regards,
Bob
Depending on the overall length of the allen screw would it be possible to install a nyloc nut on it. These nuts have a nylon insert in them that acts as a lock washer and if one of those would work you wouldn't have to worry about it coming loose again. If the screw is long enough maybe you could install a slightly longer screw if there is enough side clearence to warrent a longer screw and maybe then you could get the nylock nut, also sometimes called an aircraft nut, on. Just a thought.
Love and Peace. Blessed Be. Doug.
Hello Douglas,
Great idea, thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Great fix I would change title to include "rattle or knocking fix" that way if someone has the same issues this video would be of help.
That is a great suggestion Brian,
I took your advise and changed the video name. Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Wish Dewalt would make a screw on access door over the problem area, loctite will hold but screws have oil on it needs a good cleaning first I fix the problem with double nut or some call it pal nut. Thanks for great video!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Wow, a lot of disassembly to get at one nut. Nice fix though Bob. -John
Thank you John,
It can be a pain but it's worth it, I use that saw all the time. Plus once you do it the first time and figure it out, it's really not that bad.
Regards,
Bob
Good video. I liked it. Good Job on the maintaining your Scroll Saw.
Thank you Spencer.
It's a great tool, I've had it quite a while and I'd like to keep it for a long time to come.
Regards,
Bob
That was a great video, sure helped me diagnose my saw problem. Thanks
+Bill Garland Thank you Bill.
Regards,
Bob
OK, there is a rule in my shop that when you drop a screw, particularly if it is a critical unique screw, it must roll under something out of site and out of reach. ;)
Ditto,
Notice I did turn off the camera for recovery. It went under the cabinets.
Regards,
Bob
hahaha that is a law of physics in my shop hahahaha
Pick up a magnetizer square (you can get them from Harbor Freight) as it will allow you to magnetize anything (screwdriver, Allen wrench, etc...) and then if you also need too you can de-magnetize the same tool.
I dread this job, but mine is knocking. I don't know if I have one of those thin wrenches. Have you ever used Loctite on that bolt/nut? I guess while in there I should look for other loose bolts. Thanks for the concise video. Will let you know how it goes.
Yes, I used Loc-Tite the second time I took it apart and replaced that screw. Learn from my mistake. 😃
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Opened it up, mine is different. That bolt you indicate as coming loose, on mine is a torx head bolt, with the torx head on the inside where you use the small wrench. On the open side is two nuts, one I'm sure is a jam nut to keep it tight. It seems tight on mine. Any thoughts where I should be looking for excessive play? It's getting scarier and scarier as I remover more bolts? Most of which are torx. Tom N. Carol Stream, Il.
Hello Tom,
Without seeing the saw it is tough to guess. All I can recommend is to check the tightness of every bolt that connects two moving pieces. Also, be on the lookout for worn bushings in those moving joints.
Apologies but my knowledge is limited to the issue I trouble shot on my saw. I haven’t had any more issues so I haven’t been back in there looking for causes.
Regards,
Bob
If locktite doesn't work you can always dimple the top of the nit and end of the screw after they are tightened in two places with a punch and it should keep it together
Nice idea C.J.,
Next time I have to take it apart will hopefully be the last. That's what I love about sharing on RUclips, all the idea exchange.
Regards,
Bob
Big Thanks from Hungary !
+khalily2 You are welcome.
Bob
Hi bob. Mine is basically brand new. Would the mechanics be the same? I’m terrified to take it apart, and not be able to get it back together.
I believe they are the same, I think they just took some weight out with lighter weight covers.
Taking the saw apart is easy, it’s putting it back together that’s the tricky part.😀
Regards,
Bob
Very good information. Speaking of information; I am about to purchase a small wood lathe, (12"X16") to be specific. I read about everything I can find concerning the mini and midi wood lathes. I narrowed my selection down to a 70-100 Rikon. Any thoughts on this particular lathe. Remember I ask!
Hello Terry,
To be honest, I've never used that lathe so I don't have an opinion but I do have some thoughts.
Does it have reverse or the ability to add reverse as an option? That might not seem like much but it makes a world of difference when sanding.
Does it have variable speed? Changing belts seems like no big deal until you realize just how many time you have to do it in a turning session.
Those are two things I wish my lathe had but doesn't.
Also, how powerful Is the motor? Mine is small and Boggs on larger pieces, man is that a pain.
Other than that, Rikon is a respected brand and uses industry standards so attachments will be plentiful. I have a Rikon grinder and love it so I wouldn't be opposed to having one of their lathes.
You can turn with anything, you just want a tool that makes it enjoyable.
Regards,
Bob
The 70-100 does not reverse; it is not electronic v.s.; the motor is 1/2 hp. There seems to be a sizeable price jump when variable speed control is added and even more if the motor will reverse. I observed these price jumps in the same line of manufactures.
This features aren't a necessity, there a real nice to have. I believe with the Rikon you can retrofit later.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks so much really helped me out
Thank you.
If it occurs again, you can remove the nut and bolt completely, drill a small hole and insert a cotter pin. That will lock it permanently.
Thank you,
Another great idea.
Regards,
Bob
rjb great info. thanks for the tip.bob
Thank you Robert.
Regards,
Bob
Hay I had the same problem but I put Lock tyt on it and didn't have that problem again so try that next time it works !
Thank you Fred,
Several people have mentioned that to me. As simple is it is, I never even thought of it.
Regards,
Bob
Good to know info. Thanks
Thank you Mike,
I hope you never have this issue.
Regards,
Bob
Is your saw a type 1 or type 2 ? Thanks.
It’s an original Type 1
Mine to and I need to try this. The other videos I have seen had nuts instead of Star bolt. Thanks
Thanks for sharing this information.
Thank you
this is exactly what I needed!
+coolbird4 Be sure to use some LocTite on the threads. I didn't and I just had to take it apart again.
Bob
Thanks for posting this video Rob. There is some good footage here for when it happens to my same model machine. Let's face it, we know it will sometime ;o( Good to know what steps to take for the fix. Thanks, Ed
+Edmund Wootton Thank you Edmond,
I hope it never happens to you but if it does, try a little lock tite on it. I never even thought about that until someone left it as a comment. Great idea and will probably stop the issue.
Regards,
Bob
Would thread lock be a solver for this problem?
+Bill Garland Yes it would, I plan to use it next time I have an issue.
Regards,
Bob
Apply Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single will solve your problem.
Thank you.
A lot of disassembly. Thank goodness it's only once every five years.
It's a pain but it's worth it. I love this tool.
Wouldn't it be nice if manufacturers would only use one size bolt (within reason) they seem determined to make it as difficult as possible to get into the machine. the bolt that comes loose is another example of being awkward just for the sake of it.
+John Fithian-Franks I couldn't agree more John.
Regards,
Bob
Use some locktight.
Thank you Daniel,
Your comment was a forehead slapping moment. I've use Locktight on my car and for other applications but it never occurred to me to use it in my saw. Sometimes the simplest solutions are to simple to see.
Regards,
Bob
No worries, sometimes all it takes is a different set of eyes.RJBWoodTurner
That's what I love about RUclips and Facebook. I learn so much form others perspectives, it makes me better at what I like to do.
Regards,
Bob
+RJBWoodTurner Agreed.
+RJBWoodTurner make sure it is the red locktite - you should clean the screw with acetone first too. just in case there is some grease on it.
.
.
If this has come loose before and a nylon lock nut did not hold, have your tried Loctite?
+LV_Woodturner I haven't tried it but if and when if comes loose again, Loctite will be my go to.
Regards,
Bob
+RJBWoodTurner
Loctite was developed to prevent fasteners from vibrating loose. You want the blue type. This bond can be broken with a wrench. The red type bond is very strong, can only be broken with heat, a lot of heat, something like 500+ deg F.
+LV_Woodturner Thank you,
I didn't know any of that. Blue it is.
Regards,
Bob