HOW TO EXPOSE THE DAT0 POINT USING THE KAMIKAZE METHOD ON THE OLED
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2024
- You need to have guts to do this guide or you will end up damaging the console.
TIME STAMP
00:00 START
00:05 INTRO
00:17 DISCLAIMER
00:26 WHAT IT IS ?
01:08 PREREQUISITE
01:18 HOW TO DO IT ?
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Music
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CONTACT & DONATION
linktr.ee/sthetixofficial
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Игры
Top class execution as always from Sthetix. Reminds me the old days of the 360 with Mediatek DVD controller for key extraction 😊
Thanks again!
Lots of confidence to do this! :)
Definitely!
love the bg music, matching the description
Glad you like it!
brother you have made it look simple amazing work , now we wait for the newbies to try it. i could anticipate dead switches in the coming months.
sure.. this guide is not for newbies 😁
In my opinion, it is not better than fighting with dat0, I already have a video about it
@@Reparatuswitch really depends on what the customer wants if it's presented as an option. anchors without reflow for basic installation will be sufficient.
@@prmzngphI had a corner dat0 adapter that came with a hwfly chip I bought ages ago and used that with my instinct v6, been flawless for about 6 months and I’ve dropped it several times 😂
@@Reparatuswitchte amo we
This is insane method thx for sharing
Any time
Awesome
Que buen video amigo
That's awesome
Good work! Its better than dat0 adapter
You are the best
Me parece interesante este metodo, lo intentare pronto... Tengo una oled con instinct v6 pero en algunas ocasiones se me ha apagado y el dat0 se mueve y tengo que abrirla para colocarlo biej y volver a entrar a la magia. Asi que intentare este metodo ya que usar calor si me da miedo.
this is an amazing mod !, it reminds me the kamikaze mod for some dvd drives back in the x360 days , and tbh doesnt seem that hard, probably some sticker guides and could be easily located like the guide jigs for drilling the x360 drives XD
it is exactly 1mm from the A point : x.com/sthetixofficial/status/1730725655665631239?s=20
It is the best kamikaze I have seen, in the forums people exaggerated saying that it was very deep to reach the third layer that you could go through the other side of the card 🤣 I already see the Chinese making a square-shaped adapter and based on the green line, sthetix will soon be contracted by NASA
hahaha :)
Today i do 2 with this method and works at first attempt, best way to no disassemble more the console ✌🏻
Vídeo ?
@@cabeopaulo soon at my channel, first try not too clean but works
Hi! It would be nice if you could show a proper install using this method so we can see how it works with the ribbon adapter for point A.
do not use ribbon cable - i found it generates interference so you cannot boot to the OFW. Use individual wires instead.
Sounds like a Sthetix only Mod !!! XD
Kaboom😮
Gotta give this a try. Doesn't seem all that bad.
This is honestly genius. To me this doesn't seem THAT dangerous, as long as you don't scratch out the trace below it. I'm guessing the perimeter is so large to give a clear distinction between the layers? Also, are there any traces next to it below the first layer?
Yes you are correct. There are other tracks beside it. you can get the scans from x.com/PhenomMod/status/1511571104783077379?s=20
Awesome, thanks! Just curious, is this your new go-to method or are you sticking to the dat0 adapters? How much longer does this take you than installing a dat0 adapter?@@sthetixofficial
I prefer the less hassle less risk method which is using the dat0 adapter. because the failure rate is low.. I believe different person has different result.
@@sthetixofficial
@@sthetixofficial Doing the second test I cut the two lines, but it is not difficult to reconstruct them, the console was perfect
Wow
The adapter works fine, but nice work though. Gives me flashbacks to the Wii drive mobo.. no desire to go back lol
Would it be possible to grind down through the layers with some other manual tool? I'm thinking it may be easier/safer to attempt to go a more "slow and steady" type of approach, but unsure if that would actually be feasible and what tools could be considered for that
i think drilling/grinding is the best.
I only use this method
I stopped by this video because I just had to see it done. Bro I could never do this lol
True, the only reliable solution. Those DAT0 adapter never works for long run no matter how much soldering point it have designed to stable it, it always slipped off after long run. But with this method. Have done it on >10 devices and none of them got any problems after a year.
Hello, which speed should I choose from 1-5, would I choose between 1-2? Does it take a long time to drill through layer 2? I would like to try this giant because the dat0 adapters are simply disgusting
1 is enough. it took me about 5 - 10 minutes to get to the C point.
😮😮😮
The other method that involves adapter seems to be easier but unreliable (fail to boot). The reason IMO, because it doesn't grip solder balls on EMMC BGA.
Alternative method involves interposer board for EMMC. The drawback for that? Reball failures.
do not alter the emummc solder pads or even remove it, as it is not stable too,.. at some point, the solder will crack.
OMG 😱
I reball the entire nand onto a non-flex breakout pcb. The benefit is that it also gives you easy access to the D A C points without having to grind anything on OLED keeping the board in perfect condition for long term. But if you kill the nand with all that heat, it's over. (I haven't seen you film this method. Video idea?) but this is the first time i've seen something else that looks just as reliable, maybe even faster! In my opinion the flimsy dat0 flex under the chip is not good enough and will always eventually disconnect. How does the kapton tape help you find the zone to grind? What are you aligning it to? It seems judging the position in relation to the cap might be easier. Thanks for the video!
I have a launch model with a Dat0 adapter working for 2+ years now. There is no doubt it stays working if the adapter is properly installed. It all comes to experience and the right technique. Just as reliable as the corona postfix adapter.
Glad to hear
I agree!
This guide will help you x.com/sthetixofficial/status/1730729354454581424?s=20
I'd like to see a video of the grinding in normal speed
i have the video of it - will upload it later.
Is there a similar technique to expose clk? My very first attempt, I destroyed the via at the D point. I still have that switch, but no hot air rework station. If I could fly a jumper from the clk trace to the emmc, perhaps that switch could live...
it is harder than exposing the CLK point.
I see the resistor miss at your video,..does the resistor that was pulled out need to be replaced... or is there no problem if not replaced
i did not replace or alter the resistor.
I always had problem with flux seeping under dat0 and disturbing the signal and boot failure after a while. And now choosing not to use flux anymore for dat0. Can u recommend me a good no clean non conductive flux
If you are using flux, please flush it with IPA before closing the eMMC cover. even the best flux (no clean flux) is corrosive. FYI, i use the original v3 flux from amtechdirect.
kamikaze indeed
Hi. This method solves the DATA0 problem of the DATA0 adapter?
My switch have to return to assistence every 3 to 4 months to resolder the points.
I think so, since it has stronger bond, unlike the dat0 adapter that doesn't solder the EMMC BGA
I dont know why picofly not get working only blue lite and 4 time yellow light blinking the dat0 adapter reading 0.744 V
And other oled 0.688 V the adapter is not shity 😂 ✌️... But this 😢very risky ... Cant try 😅
Can I do it on my own with a tweezer without using a grinder?
I usually scratch D points with just tweezers a few times This is not difficult. I wonder if kamikaze is possible by hand
no you cannot
may I ask how many Dat 0 points are their on the oled mother board..?
only one, basically from the eMMC to the CPU. You can find the traces by downloading this board scans x.com/PhenomMod/status/1511571104783077379?s=20
What’s the difference with this method is it more reliable more likely to not have problems later on or what??
it is permanent and wont have future issue
Hi! I’m having a problem and I would love your help. I have an OLED switch with an HW FLY mod chip that I “kinda” installed. I purchased a modded motherboard from AliExpress and I’m having trouble with it
I can get into hekate but if I try to boot into sys or emu or bone stock I get no where. Stock will stop at the switch logo (not Nintendo logo) and the CFW will stop after the black and white atmosphere logo.
It won’t be responsive until I hold the power button for 10-15 seconds, then start over.
I tried your level 1 unbrick so far but that didn’t change anything.
Where should I start?
Thank you so much!!!
i dont know what the problem is BUT, maybe you need to remove the chip wires and see if the console can boot to the OFW.
@@sthetixofficial Hello, where can I find the schematic of your video 1:30 min
you can get it on twitter.com/PhenomMod/status/1511571104783077379?t=I0UvRUtI3sCWNQIG-YSCTA&s=19
Gracias 😊
what grinder/drill bit is this? I know you mentioned 0.2mm, but what shape is it? a drill? a round diamond ball? if you could share a link of the picture that would be great!
a sharp 0.2mm , it is inside the ma-ant D1 package. www.diyfixtool.com/products/maant-d1-intelligent-usb-grinding-pen-charging-engraving-pen?variant=44366834729189
@@sthetixofficial got it! Thanks for the quick reply!
Hello friend of how many mm does the tip of the dremel have to be? 0.5? 0.3? Thank you
it is 0.2
Okay there is little difference with the 0.3, thank you 😁
What size grinder (drill) bit did you use?
0.2mm
Thanks! Do you remember where you bought it?
I just bought the MaAnt D1 but it doesn’t have a 0.2mm.
@sofakng163 i bought it on aliexpress.
Is there any chance of components getting short on the grinded copper dust?
as long as you clean it throughly, it should be fine.
Now all we need is easy RST point on front and we have a no mobo removal method
not needed to be honest, better to remove the board anyways
there is, x.com/sthetixofficial/status/1730725655665631239?s=20
@@sthetixofficial will you ever do a video showing how to mod using all the points in the front?
maybe someday
@@sthetixofficial hype
@sthetix I love your videos. One question, if I cut connection with dat0 tò GPU on 3 layer it's possible to solve It? Or Is the Nintendo not repairable?
you need to manually repair the connection by removing the emmc chip and cpu
@@sthetixofficial I turn on the switch and After I repaired the connection but now the switch do not turn on. Do you think I burned something?
@GiuseppeFregiato maybe you have broken the track. that is why you cannot boot it up
@@sthetixofficial right I broken the track on the third layer I tryed to turn on the switch but It's not turned on,after I checked the track and I saw the track broken I repaired It but now the switch don't turned on. Is It possible that with track broken if we turn on the switch the CPU or emmc burned?
@GiuseppeFregiato not possible. I am sure the broken track is one of many.
What Dremel do you use?
the Ma-Ant D1
@@sthetixofficial Thank you so much!
My second kamikaze failed, I have the data point with a diode drop but I took the copper of that line a little higher and it ran out of continuity, I made a jumper to communicate the line and now my OLED is dead. and hwfly flashes yellow 6 times. I'll let you know if I solve it in the next few days. If anyone has the same experience, please share, thank you.
I installed rp2040 hwfly chip and it worked once, after reassembly black screen even with chip totally removed... Measurements all okay, what happened?
I had something similar happen, turned out my hwfly board was slightly bent causing one of the buttons to be pressed. I replaced the hwfly board and all is well
Some of the hwfly chips come with no firmware on them you have to put the file on the chip using the provided USB c port I think the file your looking for is uf2
@@jontait1095As I said, I installed firmware and it did work once, but now it's black screen even with chip removed, console seems dead...
Had the same problem. Had to reball the Emmc chip
@@2losersinbasement Mine doesn't work even with the chip removed now, seems dead
omg
Can i do it using hand tools?
what hand tools?
@@sthetixofficialtweezers, or an exacto knife
Very risky, 😢 I prefer DAT0 adapter old method (no heat)
I understand :)
oh hell no!!!!! lol
What is this ?
What is this for exactly? 😅
for connecting the dat0 signal on the switch oled console
@@sthetixofficial what does that achieve? Sorry, I'ma n00b 😅
for modding the switch oled.
Now if we can get an alternate d point lol
The current one is easy to expose.
@@sthetixofficial yeah I’ve done a ton of them and I have never messed one up but I still get nervous each time haha
В России так делают давно.
I have now a recycled OLED dont use these method it is to 99% recycle mode : /
Have i now chance to use a alternate Point to connect it back ?
What happened?
Its doesnt any more boot in Orginal please doesnt doo these method it is crappies of all Method ! I dont know how i can now fix it
It's called Kamikaze method for a reason, super risky like the xbox 360 kamikaze method. Sell your switch for parts at this point and try to make up for the cost sadly
Its not the same like 360 there is a sound which you can stop the drilling here are the layers thiner as a hair it is too thin, never try again it is the risky method ever i see 99% which ghuy these to start i guarantee the first switch going to recycle 99% at the 2-5 Switch training its bether after 10-15 Switch are pro , nope it is not worth the method is not good.
1st
I don't get it
The dat0 trace is 3 layers deep on the circuit board