@@Reparatuswitch really depends on what the customer wants if it's presented as an option. anchors without reflow for basic installation will be sufficient.
@@prmzngphI had a corner dat0 adapter that came with a hwfly chip I bought ages ago and used that with my instinct v6, been flawless for about 6 months and I’ve dropped it several times 😂
This is honestly genius. To me this doesn't seem THAT dangerous, as long as you don't scratch out the trace below it. I'm guessing the perimeter is so large to give a clear distinction between the layers? Also, are there any traces next to it below the first layer?
Awesome, thanks! Just curious, is this your new go-to method or are you sticking to the dat0 adapters? How much longer does this take you than installing a dat0 adapter?@@sthetixofficial
I prefer the less hassle less risk method which is using the dat0 adapter. because the failure rate is low.. I believe different person has different result.
It is the best kamikaze I have seen, in the forums people exaggerated saying that it was very deep to reach the third layer that you could go through the other side of the card 🤣 I already see the Chinese making a square-shaped adapter and based on the green line, sthetix will soon be contracted by NASA
which solder paste is recommended cause i saw one of your video's where you put solder paste onto the kamikaze point mind sharing a link of the one you use maybe from amazon? gonna attempt this soon already ordered everything i need i just need the solder paste still
@@sthetixofficial so somehow my messages keep getting flagged which is annoying or may just be on my end but eh will this brand work > Chip Quik SMD291AX Solder Paste no clean 63Sn/37Pb in 5cc syringe 15g
@@sthetixofficial oh btw i had a question are you able to make a video more detailed with installing the instinct v6 modchip with the kamikaze method? would be amazing to see a detailed guide
I've enjoyed your tutorial videos since my Xbox 360. I have questions about the OLED mainboard. Does it have the same thickness as a PC motherboard? and second, during drilling, is gentle contact sufficient or does it require pressure during grinding?
@ Thanks, i successfuly exposed dat 0 with kamikaze method...but very hard to stick solder tin into it. 😆😆. using tin paste relife and straight c210 solder tip. I no longger continue to try soldering dat0, maybe i will continue with dat0 adapter because i still love my console..wkwkwk
this is an amazing mod !, it reminds me the kamikaze mod for some dvd drives back in the x360 days , and tbh doesnt seem that hard, probably some sticker guides and could be easily located like the guide jigs for drilling the x360 drives XD
Would it be possible to grind down through the layers with some other manual tool? I'm thinking it may be easier/safer to attempt to go a more "slow and steady" type of approach, but unsure if that would actually be feasible and what tools could be considered for that
True, the only reliable solution. Those DAT0 adapter never works for long run no matter how much soldering point it have designed to stable it, it always slipped off after long run. But with this method. Have done it on >10 devices and none of them got any problems after a year.
Me parece interesante este metodo, lo intentare pronto... Tengo una oled con instinct v6 pero en algunas ocasiones se me ha apagado y el dat0 se mueve y tengo que abrirla para colocarlo biej y volver a entrar a la magia. Asi que intentare este metodo ya que usar calor si me da miedo.
I reball the entire nand onto a non-flex breakout pcb. The benefit is that it also gives you easy access to the D A C points without having to grind anything on OLED keeping the board in perfect condition for long term. But if you kill the nand with all that heat, it's over. (I haven't seen you film this method. Video idea?) but this is the first time i've seen something else that looks just as reliable, maybe even faster! In my opinion the flimsy dat0 flex under the chip is not good enough and will always eventually disconnect. How does the kapton tape help you find the zone to grind? What are you aligning it to? It seems judging the position in relation to the cap might be easier. Thanks for the video!
I have a launch model with a Dat0 adapter working for 2+ years now. There is no doubt it stays working if the adapter is properly installed. It all comes to experience and the right technique. Just as reliable as the corona postfix adapter.
Hello, which speed should I choose from 1-5, would I choose between 1-2? Does it take a long time to drill through layer 2? I would like to try this giant because the dat0 adapters are simply disgusting
Hi! I’m having a problem and I would love your help. I have an OLED switch with an HW FLY mod chip that I “kinda” installed. I purchased a modded motherboard from AliExpress and I’m having trouble with it I can get into hekate but if I try to boot into sys or emu or bone stock I get no where. Stock will stop at the switch logo (not Nintendo logo) and the CFW will stop after the black and white atmosphere logo. It won’t be responsive until I hold the power button for 10-15 seconds, then start over. I tried your level 1 unbrick so far but that didn’t change anything. Where should I start? Thank you so much!!!
what grinder/drill bit is this? I know you mentioned 0.2mm, but what shape is it? a drill? a round diamond ball? if you could share a link of the picture that would be great!
a sharp 0.2mm , it is inside the ma-ant D1 package. www.diyfixtool.com/products/maant-d1-intelligent-usb-grinding-pen-charging-engraving-pen?variant=44366834729189
Is there a similar technique to expose clk? My very first attempt, I destroyed the via at the D point. I still have that switch, but no hot air rework station. If I could fly a jumper from the clk trace to the emmc, perhaps that switch could live...
I have also tried this Method unfortunately I did not quite well. I grinded to deep and removed the DAT0 connector and the one next to it without noticing it. Since I still can se a small portion of the DAT0 can I still use it to make my connection? Have I maybe break something while grinding... I´m currently at layer 4.... I see the layer/coper below DAT0...
@sthetixofficial 😅 yes your right, can you tell me is the trace enough that I have left to continue? Is there anything else connected to the actual dat0 pont in this method? If nothing else connected than I think I'm good right?
I always had problem with flux seeping under dat0 and disturbing the signal and boot failure after a while. And now choosing not to use flux anymore for dat0. Can u recommend me a good no clean non conductive flux
If you are using flux, please flush it with IPA before closing the eMMC cover. even the best flux (no clean flux) is corrosive. FYI, i use the original v3 flux from amtechdirect.
Can I do it on my own with a tweezer without using a grinder? I usually scratch D points with just tweezers a few times This is not difficult. I wonder if kamikaze is possible by hand
The other method that involves adapter seems to be easier but unreliable (fail to boot). The reason IMO, because it doesn't grip solder balls on EMMC BGA. Alternative method involves interposer board for EMMC. The drawback for that? Reball failures.
I dont know why picofly not get working only blue lite and 4 time yellow light blinking the dat0 adapter reading 0.744 V And other oled 0.688 V the adapter is not shity 😂 ✌️... But this 😢very risky ... Cant try 😅
I installed rp2040 hwfly chip and it worked once, after reassembly black screen even with chip totally removed... Measurements all okay, what happened?
I had something similar happen, turned out my hwfly board was slightly bent causing one of the buttons to be pressed. I replaced the hwfly board and all is well
Some of the hwfly chips come with no firmware on them you have to put the file on the chip using the provided USB c port I think the file your looking for is uf2
Mas tanya, dat0 pake adapter tu emang gabisa 100% beres kah? Atau teknisi di kotaku yg skill nya blom top? 😂 Aku 2x kali benerin kayak gini, ga tahan lama mesti balik lagi biru, kuning kedip 2 kali 3 kali, bablas ofw Tiap abis maen di outdoor, atau abis panas kayak gitu Kronologi 1 tiba tiba gagal masuk hekate, di ganti dat0, bisa Next udah seminggu abis maen outdoor gitu lagi, ternyata kable flex nya. Kata teknisinya sih chip picofly v4 ku yg nge bug, jd klo next masih trouble saran nya ganti chip. Mohon pencerahan nya suhu, terimakasih
@sthetix I love your videos. One question, if I cut connection with dat0 tò GPU on 3 layer it's possible to solve It? Or Is the Nintendo not repairable?
@@sthetixofficial right I broken the track on the third layer I tryed to turn on the switch but It's not turned on,after I checked the track and I saw the track broken I repaired It but now the switch don't turned on. Is It possible that with track broken if we turn on the switch the CPU or emmc burned?
It's called Kamikaze method for a reason, super risky like the xbox 360 kamikaze method. Sell your switch for parts at this point and try to make up for the cost sadly
Its not the same like 360 there is a sound which you can stop the drilling here are the layers thiner as a hair it is too thin, never try again it is the risky method ever i see 99% which ghuy these to start i guarantee the first switch going to recycle 99% at the 2-5 Switch training its bether after 10-15 Switch are pro , nope it is not worth the method is not good.
My second kamikaze failed, I have the data point with a diode drop but I took the copper of that line a little higher and it ran out of continuity, I made a jumper to communicate the line and now my OLED is dead. and hwfly flashes yellow 6 times. I'll let you know if I solve it in the next few days. If anyone has the same experience, please share, thank you.
@sthetixofficial the dat0 point is under two layers of copper and I what I am asking are if both of those layers are connected to ground or is top layer is ground and 2nd is power plain and 3rd is where se have the dat0 via
Top class execution as always from Sthetix. Reminds me the old days of the 360 with Mediatek DVD controller for key extraction 😊
Thanks again!
Lots of confidence to do this! :)
Definitely!
love the bg music, matching the description
Glad you like it!
brother you have made it look simple amazing work , now we wait for the newbies to try it. i could anticipate dead switches in the coming months.
sure.. this guide is not for newbies 😁
In my opinion, it is not better than fighting with dat0, I already have a video about it
@@Reparatuswitch really depends on what the customer wants if it's presented as an option. anchors without reflow for basic installation will be sufficient.
@@prmzngphI had a corner dat0 adapter that came with a hwfly chip I bought ages ago and used that with my instinct v6, been flawless for about 6 months and I’ve dropped it several times 😂
@@Reparatuswitchte amo we
Today i do 2 with this method and works at first attempt, best way to no disassemble more the console ✌🏻
Vídeo ?
@@cabeopaulo soon at my channel, first try not too clean but works
This is honestly genius. To me this doesn't seem THAT dangerous, as long as you don't scratch out the trace below it. I'm guessing the perimeter is so large to give a clear distinction between the layers? Also, are there any traces next to it below the first layer?
Yes you are correct. There are other tracks beside it. you can get the scans from x.com/PhenomMod/status/1511571104783077379?s=20
Awesome, thanks! Just curious, is this your new go-to method or are you sticking to the dat0 adapters? How much longer does this take you than installing a dat0 adapter?@@sthetixofficial
I prefer the less hassle less risk method which is using the dat0 adapter. because the failure rate is low.. I believe different person has different result.
@@sthetixofficial
@@sthetixofficial Doing the second test I cut the two lines, but it is not difficult to reconstruct them, the console was perfect
It is the best kamikaze I have seen, in the forums people exaggerated saying that it was very deep to reach the third layer that you could go through the other side of the card 🤣 I already see the Chinese making a square-shaped adapter and based on the green line, sthetix will soon be contracted by NASA
hahaha :)
Hi. This method solves the DATA0 problem of the DATA0 adapter?
My switch have to return to assistence every 3 to 4 months to resolder the points.
I think so, since it has stronger bond, unlike the dat0 adapter that doesn't solder the EMMC BGA
Hi! It would be nice if you could show a proper install using this method so we can see how it works with the ribbon adapter for point A.
do not use ribbon cable - i found it generates interference so you cannot boot to the OFW. Use individual wires instead.
This is insane method thx for sharing
Any time
which solder paste is recommended cause i saw one of your video's where you put solder paste onto the kamikaze point mind sharing a link of the one you use maybe from amazon? gonna attempt this soon already ordered everything i need i just need the solder paste still
any solder paste is fine, but choose the one that is not lead free so the melting temperature is 180c or less.
@@sthetixofficial so somehow my messages keep getting flagged which is annoying or may just be on my end but eh will this brand work > Chip Quik SMD291AX Solder Paste no clean 63Sn/37Pb in 5cc syringe 15g
@@sthetixofficial oh btw i had a question are you able to make a video more detailed with installing the instinct v6 modchip with the kamikaze method? would be amazing to see a detailed guide
@Meowtional method is still the same as the v6
@@sthetixofficial alright! is this one good? > Chip Quik SMD291AX
I've enjoyed your tutorial videos since my Xbox 360. I have questions about the OLED mainboard. Does it have the same thickness as a PC motherboard?
and second, during drilling, is gentle contact sufficient or does it require pressure during grinding?
hmm, i think PC is thicker. you need to experience it so you will have the feel
@@sthetixofficial Thanks for the response. At least I now have an idea about the thickness of the OLED board before executing it on my console
@ Thanks, i successfuly exposed dat 0 with kamikaze method...but very hard to stick solder tin into it. 😆😆. using tin paste relife and straight c210 solder tip. I no longger continue to try soldering dat0, maybe i will continue with dat0 adapter because i still love my console..wkwkwk
this is an amazing mod !, it reminds me the kamikaze mod for some dvd drives back in the x360 days , and tbh doesnt seem that hard, probably some sticker guides and could be easily located like the guide jigs for drilling the x360 drives XD
it is exactly 1mm from the A point : x.com/sthetixofficial/status/1730725655665631239?s=20
Would it be possible to grind down through the layers with some other manual tool? I'm thinking it may be easier/safer to attempt to go a more "slow and steady" type of approach, but unsure if that would actually be feasible and what tools could be considered for that
i think drilling/grinding is the best.
I only use this method
I stopped by this video because I just had to see it done. Bro I could never do this lol
True, the only reliable solution. Those DAT0 adapter never works for long run no matter how much soldering point it have designed to stable it, it always slipped off after long run. But with this method. Have done it on >10 devices and none of them got any problems after a year.
Me parece interesante este metodo, lo intentare pronto... Tengo una oled con instinct v6 pero en algunas ocasiones se me ha apagado y el dat0 se mueve y tengo que abrirla para colocarlo biej y volver a entrar a la magia. Asi que intentare este metodo ya que usar calor si me da miedo.
I reball the entire nand onto a non-flex breakout pcb. The benefit is that it also gives you easy access to the D A C points without having to grind anything on OLED keeping the board in perfect condition for long term. But if you kill the nand with all that heat, it's over. (I haven't seen you film this method. Video idea?) but this is the first time i've seen something else that looks just as reliable, maybe even faster! In my opinion the flimsy dat0 flex under the chip is not good enough and will always eventually disconnect. How does the kapton tape help you find the zone to grind? What are you aligning it to? It seems judging the position in relation to the cap might be easier. Thanks for the video!
I have a launch model with a Dat0 adapter working for 2+ years now. There is no doubt it stays working if the adapter is properly installed. It all comes to experience and the right technique. Just as reliable as the corona postfix adapter.
Glad to hear
I agree!
This guide will help you x.com/sthetixofficial/status/1730729354454581424?s=20
Hello, which speed should I choose from 1-5, would I choose between 1-2? Does it take a long time to drill through layer 2? I would like to try this giant because the dat0 adapters are simply disgusting
1 is enough. it took me about 5 - 10 minutes to get to the C point.
I see the resistor miss at your video,..does the resistor that was pulled out need to be replaced... or is there no problem if not replaced
i did not replace or alter the resistor.
Hi! I’m having a problem and I would love your help. I have an OLED switch with an HW FLY mod chip that I “kinda” installed. I purchased a modded motherboard from AliExpress and I’m having trouble with it
I can get into hekate but if I try to boot into sys or emu or bone stock I get no where. Stock will stop at the switch logo (not Nintendo logo) and the CFW will stop after the black and white atmosphere logo.
It won’t be responsive until I hold the power button for 10-15 seconds, then start over.
I tried your level 1 unbrick so far but that didn’t change anything.
Where should I start?
Thank you so much!!!
i dont know what the problem is BUT, maybe you need to remove the chip wires and see if the console can boot to the OFW.
@@sthetixofficial Hello, where can I find the schematic of your video 1:30 min
you can get it on twitter.com/PhenomMod/status/1511571104783077379?t=I0UvRUtI3sCWNQIG-YSCTA&s=19
Gracias 😊
Hello friend of how many mm does the tip of the dremel have to be? 0.5? 0.3? Thank you
it is 0.2
Okay there is little difference with the 0.3, thank you 😁
what grinder/drill bit is this? I know you mentioned 0.2mm, but what shape is it? a drill? a round diamond ball? if you could share a link of the picture that would be great!
a sharp 0.2mm , it is inside the ma-ant D1 package. www.diyfixtool.com/products/maant-d1-intelligent-usb-grinding-pen-charging-engraving-pen?variant=44366834729189
@@sthetixofficial got it! Thanks for the quick reply!
I'd like to see a video of the grinding in normal speed
i have the video of it - will upload it later.
Is there a similar technique to expose clk? My very first attempt, I destroyed the via at the D point. I still have that switch, but no hot air rework station. If I could fly a jumper from the clk trace to the emmc, perhaps that switch could live...
it is harder than exposing the CLK point.
What’s the difference with this method is it more reliable more likely to not have problems later on or what??
it is permanent and wont have future issue
I have also tried this Method unfortunately I did not quite well. I grinded to deep and removed the DAT0 connector and the one next to it without noticing it. Since I still can se a small portion of the DAT0 can I still use it to make my connection? Have I maybe break something while grinding... I´m currently at layer 4.... I see the layer/coper below DAT0...
as long as you can fix it, then the console will start again.
@sthetixofficial 😅 yes your right, can you tell me is the trace enough that I have left to continue? Is there anything else connected to the actual dat0 pont in this method? If nothing else connected than I think I'm good right?
you need to learn from this schematic files.zzattack.org/index.php?dir=img%2Fconsole%2Fswitch
may I ask how many Dat 0 points are their on the oled mother board..?
only one, basically from the eMMC to the CPU. You can find the traces by downloading this board scans x.com/PhenomMod/status/1511571104783077379?s=20
Good work! Its better than dat0 adapter
Awesome
Sounds like a Sthetix only Mod !!! XD
I always had problem with flux seeping under dat0 and disturbing the signal and boot failure after a while. And now choosing not to use flux anymore for dat0. Can u recommend me a good no clean non conductive flux
If you are using flux, please flush it with IPA before closing the eMMC cover. even the best flux (no clean flux) is corrosive. FYI, i use the original v3 flux from amtechdirect.
Que buen video amigo
The adapter works fine, but nice work though. Gives me flashbacks to the Wii drive mobo.. no desire to go back lol
Gotta give this a try. Doesn't seem all that bad.
What size grinder (drill) bit did you use?
0.2mm
Thanks! Do you remember where you bought it?
I just bought the MaAnt D1 but it doesn’t have a 0.2mm.
@sofakng163 i bought it on aliexpress.
Can I do it on my own with a tweezer without using a grinder?
I usually scratch D points with just tweezers a few times This is not difficult. I wonder if kamikaze is possible by hand
no you cannot
You are the best
Now all we need is easy RST point on front and we have a no mobo removal method
not needed to be honest, better to remove the board anyways
there is, x.com/sthetixofficial/status/1730725655665631239?s=20
@@sthetixofficial will you ever do a video showing how to mod using all the points in the front?
maybe someday
@@sthetixofficial hype
Is there any chance of components getting short on the grinded copper dust?
as long as you clean it throughly, it should be fine.
The other method that involves adapter seems to be easier but unreliable (fail to boot). The reason IMO, because it doesn't grip solder balls on EMMC BGA.
Alternative method involves interposer board for EMMC. The drawback for that? Reball failures.
do not alter the emummc solder pads or even remove it, as it is not stable too,.. at some point, the solder will crack.
what kind of grinder pen is this
ma ant d1
I dont know why picofly not get working only blue lite and 4 time yellow light blinking the dat0 adapter reading 0.744 V
And other oled 0.688 V the adapter is not shity 😂 ✌️... But this 😢very risky ... Cant try 😅
I installed rp2040 hwfly chip and it worked once, after reassembly black screen even with chip totally removed... Measurements all okay, what happened?
I had something similar happen, turned out my hwfly board was slightly bent causing one of the buttons to be pressed. I replaced the hwfly board and all is well
Some of the hwfly chips come with no firmware on them you have to put the file on the chip using the provided USB c port I think the file your looking for is uf2
@@jontait1095As I said, I installed firmware and it did work once, but now it's black screen even with chip removed, console seems dead...
Had the same problem. Had to reball the Emmc chip
@@2losersinbasement Mine doesn't work even with the chip removed now, seems dead
Mas tanya, dat0 pake adapter tu emang gabisa 100% beres kah?
Atau teknisi di kotaku yg skill nya blom top? 😂
Aku 2x kali benerin kayak gini, ga tahan lama mesti balik lagi biru, kuning kedip 2 kali 3 kali, bablas ofw
Tiap abis maen di outdoor, atau abis panas kayak gitu
Kronologi 1 tiba tiba gagal masuk hekate, di ganti dat0, bisa
Next udah seminggu abis maen outdoor gitu lagi, ternyata kable flex nya.
Kata teknisinya sih chip picofly v4 ku yg nge bug, jd klo next masih trouble saran nya ganti chip.
Mohon pencerahan nya suhu, terimakasih
Which modchip best gor this method?
any modchip , but i use the instinct-nx
What Dremel do you use?
the Ma-Ant D1
@@sthetixofficial Thank you so much!
That's awesome
Kaboom😮
Can i do it using hand tools?
what hand tools?
@@sthetixofficialtweezers, or an exacto knife
@sthetix I love your videos. One question, if I cut connection with dat0 tò GPU on 3 layer it's possible to solve It? Or Is the Nintendo not repairable?
you need to manually repair the connection by removing the emmc chip and cpu
@@sthetixofficial I turn on the switch and After I repaired the connection but now the switch do not turn on. Do you think I burned something?
@GiuseppeFregiato maybe you have broken the track. that is why you cannot boot it up
@@sthetixofficial right I broken the track on the third layer I tryed to turn on the switch but It's not turned on,after I checked the track and I saw the track broken I repaired It but now the switch don't turned on. Is It possible that with track broken if we turn on the switch the CPU or emmc burned?
@GiuseppeFregiato not possible. I am sure the broken track is one of many.
I have now a recycled OLED dont use these method it is to 99% recycle mode : /
Have i now chance to use a alternate Point to connect it back ?
What happened?
Its doesnt any more boot in Orginal please doesnt doo these method it is crappies of all Method ! I dont know how i can now fix it
It's called Kamikaze method for a reason, super risky like the xbox 360 kamikaze method. Sell your switch for parts at this point and try to make up for the cost sadly
Its not the same like 360 there is a sound which you can stop the drilling here are the layers thiner as a hair it is too thin, never try again it is the risky method ever i see 99% which ghuy these to start i guarantee the first switch going to recycle 99% at the 2-5 Switch training its bether after 10-15 Switch are pro , nope it is not worth the method is not good.
kamikaze indeed
What is this for exactly? 😅
for connecting the dat0 signal on the switch oled console
@@sthetixofficial what does that achieve? Sorry, I'ma n00b 😅
for modding the switch oled.
Wow
😮😮😮
Dang I messed up, guess I'm gonna buy another one to try again
My second kamikaze failed, I have the data point with a diode drop but I took the copper of that line a little higher and it ran out of continuity, I made a jumper to communicate the line and now my OLED is dead. and hwfly flashes yellow 6 times. I'll let you know if I solve it in the next few days. If anyone has the same experience, please share, thank you.
What is this ?
OMG 😱
Very risky, 😢 I prefer DAT0 adapter old method (no heat)
I understand :)
В России так делают давно.
Now if we can get an alternate d point lol
The current one is easy to expose.
@@sthetixofficial yeah I’ve done a ton of them and I have never messed one up but I still get nervous each time haha
oh hell no!!!!! lol
omg
1st
are both lawyers about the point ground or is one ground and one is power plain
which one
@sthetixofficial the dat0 point is under two layers of copper
and I what I am asking are if both of those layers are connected to ground
or is top layer is ground and 2nd is power plain and 3rd is where se have the dat0 via
the first and the second layer are the ground signal.
@@sthetixofficial thanks a lot for your time