Co2 laser engraving alignment for tumblers with branding (one sided and two sided)
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2021
- In this video I go over out to setup your artwork to line up with the existing branding on tumblers such as hydro flask and yeti. This is done on my OMTech laser with my Mansfield rotary.This is the same process for any device that is compatible with Lightburn such as Aeon, Thunder, OMTech, Rabbit, Boss, and many others.
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I was also looking forward to you popping popcorn! Haha! Wow, another cool feature of a laser!....
Another great video. With your skill level I was thinking you were also going to pop the popcorn during the engraving process.
😂
Great video! Thanks Brandt!
🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Also on the second part of video when you make your box how do u know the spacing from the edge of your lightburn box to the logo box… are u framing it to get correct lineup… love your videos
Great video thanks!
great video
New to the Laser. Watching your videos to move forward is greatly appreciated. I bought a rotary like yours and I love it. Everything appears to be good except for the text. The angles in Ms Ws are wavy and I have internet searched to find a solution. I have slowed the acceleration and still have wavy lines. Starting to pull what little hair I have left out. Any suggestions. I have an OMTech 80w red and black, Mansfield rotary 3 phase, polar camel tumblers.
Purchasing a 55w blue machine today. I want to engrave pint glasses, shot glasses, round and tapered tumblers with my business logo. Which rotary should I purchase? Chuck or 4 wheel? I cant figure out the difference other than price.
Great videos BTW, I am sure I'll be watching them over and over! :)
Contemplating business expansion into laser tumblers. Can you advise which model Omtech is used in this video and what make/model would serve as a good entry machine into the tumbler business? Also rotary model recommendation.
Pretty cool, I'll have to look into getting one. Are the OMtech ones okay? How does that work with tumblers that the circumference continues to get smaller towards the bottom?
Instead of offsetting the yeti logo, center it up like you said. Then can you just move the origin of your picture to the center left selection node? Just seems logical. I'm just starting in lightburn, i honestly dont know if that will work. Unless this is just a better way, and you have tried that.
With the 4 wheel or roller tumblers the issue that I have come across is that I need a board box so give the rotary time to start and get the slack out of the belts or else it will leave a flat spot on the design.
what is your power n speed setting???
Thanks! Your method is much more precise than mine. Couple of questions. Do you laser with the door open for the camera? How is the extraction in that case? Also, what air assist do you use? I find a minimal amount helps keep my lense from getting dirty…
I only leave it open when I am trying to take video. I set up my own air assist and this is how I did it:
ruclips.net/video/y08B1v8-q-c/видео.html
@@BeardedBuildsCo oh I also used your air assist video :). Was just wondering if you use low psi on that engraving as well
Heck out my channel…. Let me know if there is ever something you want to work on together…
Do you have a video on how not to engrave on the yeti logo when doing an all around pattern? Been watching your videos and I’ve learned so much thank you for making them.
Not that specifically. You would do the same thing as this video and lay out were the logos would be.
ruclips.net/video/aB1AeNT-dJE/видео.html
Great video. What are your speeds and power settings for tumblers?
For intricate designs 150mm/s at 22% .05 line interval
Wide open designs 300mm/s 40% .05 line interval
Thank you for sharing this. Couple questions....why don't you view the image on the computer in horizontal alignment? It is hard to comprehend when all other work on wood, etc is done in horizontal view. But, now that I think about it, the tumbler is arranged differently in the laser....
Why don't you set the starting point and origin to dead center at the bottom of the design? Wouldn't this be an additional way to ensure centering?
Tumblers seem so intimidating!
The you are correct the design is turned because that is the way the tumblers are oriented in the machine.
The issue with just using a center start position is that there is usually some slop in the rotary and when it goes back to start the engraving it will create a flat spot on the beginning of the design.
How did you come up with those dimensions for you box??? Is that the space between Yeti and Chrome lip…
Yes that is the space between the logo and metal ring. The width is just based off of what I think will look good.
When engraving circular logos onto a Yeti or other water bottle, how do you modify the logo (eg horizontal stretch/taper) so it still appears circular after being engraved? Thanks!
INCREASE WIDTH BY 10%
Ive just gotten my roatery and it looks the same as yours, but mine has the clip wheel thats goes inside the cup to hold it. It can be removed with scres. On the few things i have done, names and logos, they appeared to be streatched. Not sure if this is an optical illusion or not. I have squished the files a little and they come out appealing to the eye. Do you "squish" your files? Am i doing something wrong you think? I found another video somewhere that talked about it but now i can find who uploaded it.
Have you calibrated your steps per rotation?
What laser do you have and what setting did you use for the tumbler? Thanks
These were done on my 60w
How to Laser Engrave Tumblers with a 60W Chinese Laser from Ebay!
ruclips.net/video/PWLOP94rl9M/видео.html
Do you have a way of "testing" the design on a tumbler before you commit it? Thanks for making these videos.
Wrap your tumbler in aluminum foil and masking tape. Laser off the tape to test. CO2 Laser won't go through metal
I just use blue painters tape and I have settings dialed in that it lasers it white but doesn’t burn through the tape
I just installed a rotary device and currently working through some issue with MFG. However, It seems like my laser has lost its table limits, as well as the over-limits, to keep it from crashing. I can jog the machine in both the +/- direction on the "X" axis but it will only will short jog in the + direction, in the "Y" axis while freely moving to back of the machine, or "-" direction. I could use some help getting the machine corrected so I am not dead in the water. Any suggestion?
Turn the rotary option off in the software
on t=7:00 after you had align at the middle of the logo did you roll it back 94mm by hand?
Using the move tab in lightburn
I have the rotary chuck. Is there any reason you don't center your origin instead of having to offset it?
With the 4 wheel rotary there is always slop in the belts and if you go from a center position it will leave a flat spot at the beginning of the engraving. The chuck rotary shouldn’t have that issue.
@@BeardedBuildsCo I was going to ask the same question actually, so you dont recommend using a centre origin in this case? (Im getting the same rotary). Do you have an example of what occurs when you centre?
Ok so you’re using current position correct??? It all make sense now because flat work I use absolute coordinates
Yes, current position
what were your settings? speed & power, show all please.
How to Laser Engrave Tumblers with a 60W Chinese Laser from Ebay!
ruclips.net/video/PWLOP94rl9M/видео.html
Good eve bro. You use ligthburn in cO2 laser machine?
Yes, lightburn
How bro?
Boundary box is a tool layer????
It is a layer with the output turned off.
How do I keep light burn from trying to cut the “boundary box” and only the image ?
Change the boundary box to a T1 layer or turn the output off on the layer.
@@BeardedBuildsCo will it still use that box as the origin if I turn it off?
@@Kurutzkraft yes
Lost me on back up laser