Nossa amei suas kokedamas ,elas não ficam presas sem respirar ficam como se estivesse no vaso parabéns em alguns vídeos que eu vi de outras pessoas onde a planta fica elas ficam muito pressas obgda por compartilhar seu conhecimento ❤❤❤
Thanks for the comment. I assume you familiar with the traditional, conventional way of making kokedama. Mixing the soil with peat moss or mud to make it sticky, form it into a ball, break it up in half, stuck the root part of the plant in, close up the ball, wrap it with sphagnum moss, and tie the ball with jute twine. You know how expensive to get these materials, how messy to mix the soil, how difficult to form the ball and to wrap it with sphagnum moss. Also how tedious when you water it. You need to get a big enough bucket, dump the kokedama in there, then you take it out, dripping here and there. And after a few months, it becomes mouldy, loses it original beauty! I have been promoting this old way since I fall in love with it. I gave them as gifts, I done demonstrations and workshop, but without much success because making kokedamas the old way is simply too expensive, too messy too complicated and difficult. And not to mention the caring of it and to maintain it’s original beauty. Now my new way is to solve all these problems of the old way. How? The materials I use are very simple: I use Coconut Coir garden soil for every kind, any kind of plant. This Giant Globe of Succulent, coconut mulch outside, coconut coir inside, nearly three years old, still striving. This giant octopus, used only coconut coir inside, two years old, still growing. It’s bacteria free, hygienic, indoor friendly, with good water retention. And Sphagnum Moss I use the premium grade. And Jute Twine I use two ply for mini size and queen size, three ply for king size. How I do it. I reverse and simplify the first few steps of the traditional way. How, I use a sheaf, I have these three standard size, I call them mini size around 12cm, queen size 16cm and king size 22cm. I cut a piece of cloth from an old T shirt, Place the piece of cloth in the sheaf. Then I 1. Lay a layer of the sphagnum moss nicely and evenly in the sheaf. 2. Lay a thick layer of coconut coir all round on top of the sphagnum moss. 3. Place the root part of the plant in there, add coir around it and on top of it, pour water onto the coir to sock it through, shake shake shake gently to enable the coir stuck nicely around the root without hurting it. 4. Add more coir on top to form the top half of the ball. 5. Complete the layer of Sphagnum moss on top. 6. Fold the cloth up bit by bit, wrap around the plant, then squeeze it gently but tightly. 7. Hold the two corners of the cloth, take the whole thing out from the sheaf. Squeeze the ball more tightly. Open up the cloth, immediately use the sewing thread to secure the ball from falling apart. Hold up one side of the cloth to bring up the bottom part of the ball until it facing upward. Take away the cloth. Carefully wrap the bottom part with the sewing thread to prevent it from falling apart. 8. After securing every parts of the ball, you could shape it nicely in what ever shape you like. Then 9. Wrapping the ball. Different people wrap it differently, even the professionals. There’s no such thing as the right way or the wrong way. It’s the expression of your creativity. The perfection is found in the imperfection so call. This is the most beautiful part of hand making kokedamas; every kokedama is unique. The key feature of my new way is to create a crater around the plant for easy watering. You simply water into the crater, so you could say good bye to drippings and mouldy. I also create a crater for the base for stability. You could place it on the table or in a plate or any where and it would not roll over and falling down. And this is how I do it. When I wrap, I ensure there’s a big enough crater around the plant. For the bottom, I twine the first couple of rounds through the centre. Then I twine around the centre at least three four rounds to create the flat crater. Then cut the twine. 10. Tying the knot. I tie the end part with the fourth last, then the third, then the second, then the last. Then I tug the loose end into the ball. 11. Then I give the Kokedama a nice haircut. I use a scissors to cut around the crater, take the loose parts of the sphagnum moss out. Give the new kokedama a gentle bath. Give it a finishing touch. I paste some live moss from my backyard , or sprinkle some pebbles onto the crater. That’s it.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely beautiful. You are an inspirational artist. Thank you for sharing your talents.
Let’s twine it!
You are the Best.
Very nice
Nossa amei suas kokedamas ,elas não ficam presas sem respirar ficam como se estivesse no vaso parabéns em alguns vídeos que eu vi de outras pessoas onde a planta fica elas ficam muito pressas obgda por compartilhar seu conhecimento ❤❤❤
me gusto mucho, es el mejor video que he visto
Muito lindo seus kokedamas , vou tentar fazer , gostaria de saber os qual esfagno vocè usa ? Parece de duas qualidades.
🇧🇷👏👏👏🙏🙏
Very nice work, I would like to know the name or type of thread you use. I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks for the comment.
I assume you familiar with the traditional, conventional way of making kokedama.
Mixing the soil with peat moss or mud to make it sticky, form it into a ball, break it up in half, stuck the root part of the plant in, close up the ball, wrap it with sphagnum moss, and tie the ball with jute twine. You know how expensive to get these materials, how messy to mix the soil, how difficult to form the ball and to wrap it with sphagnum moss. Also how tedious when you water it. You need to get a big enough bucket, dump the kokedama in there, then you take it out, dripping here and there. And after a few months, it becomes mouldy, loses it original beauty!
I have been promoting this old way since I fall in love with it. I gave them as gifts, I done demonstrations and workshop, but without much success because making kokedamas the old way is simply too expensive, too messy too complicated and difficult. And not to mention the caring of it and to maintain it’s original beauty. Now my new way is to solve all these problems of the old way. How?
The materials I use are very simple: I use Coconut Coir garden soil for every kind, any kind of plant. This Giant Globe of Succulent, coconut mulch outside, coconut coir inside, nearly three years old, still striving. This giant octopus, used only coconut coir inside, two years old, still growing. It’s bacteria free, hygienic, indoor friendly, with good water retention. And Sphagnum Moss I use the premium grade. And Jute Twine I use two ply for mini size and queen size, three ply for king size.
How I do it. I reverse and simplify the first few steps of the traditional way. How, I use a sheaf, I have these three standard size, I call them mini size around 12cm, queen size 16cm and king size 22cm. I cut a piece of cloth from an old T shirt, Place the piece of cloth in the sheaf. Then I
1. Lay a layer of the sphagnum moss nicely and evenly in the sheaf.
2. Lay a thick layer of coconut coir all round on top of the sphagnum moss.
3. Place the root part of the plant in there, add coir around it and on top of it, pour water onto the coir to sock it through, shake shake shake gently to enable the coir stuck nicely around the root without hurting it.
4. Add more coir on top to form the top half of the ball.
5. Complete the layer of Sphagnum moss on top.
6. Fold the cloth up bit by bit, wrap around the plant, then squeeze it gently but tightly.
7. Hold the two corners of the cloth, take the whole thing out from the sheaf. Squeeze the ball more tightly. Open up the cloth, immediately use the sewing thread to secure the ball from falling apart. Hold up one side of the cloth to bring up the bottom part of the ball until it facing upward. Take away the cloth. Carefully wrap the bottom part with the sewing thread to prevent it from falling apart.
8. After securing every parts of the ball, you could shape it nicely in what ever shape you like. Then
9. Wrapping the ball. Different people wrap it differently, even the professionals. There’s no such thing as the right way or the wrong way. It’s the expression of your creativity. The perfection is found in the imperfection so call. This is the most beautiful part of hand making kokedamas; every kokedama is unique. The key feature of my new way is to create a crater around the plant for easy watering. You simply water into the crater, so you could say good bye to drippings and mouldy. I also create a crater for the base for stability. You could place it on the table or in a plate or any where and it would not roll over and falling down. And this is how I do it. When I wrap, I ensure there’s a big enough crater around the plant. For the bottom, I twine the first couple of rounds through the centre. Then I twine around the centre at least three four rounds to create the flat crater. Then cut the twine.
10. Tying the knot. I tie the end part with the fourth last, then the third, then the second, then the last. Then I tug the loose end into the ball.
11. Then I give the Kokedama a nice haircut. I use a scissors to cut around the crater, take the loose parts of the sphagnum moss out. Give the new kokedama a gentle bath. Give it a finishing touch. I paste some live moss from my backyard , or sprinkle some pebbles onto the crater. That’s it.
@@mylaw1467 thanks you very much. ❤