Toyota Prius Home Emergency Generator (Step-by-Step)
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- If you are tired of power outages leaving you in the dark, but don't want to invest in gas generator with the gas, oil, and maintenance, then it time to turn to the Prius generator. It can provide a 1000 watts of power at a moments notice and can operate for days without refueling. The Prius can keep you refrig, tankless water heater and other small wattage devices running. Join us as we go through the steps needed to make your Prius a back up emergency generator.
Items used in this video:
GRAINGER
ANDERSON POWER PRODUCTS POWER CONNECTOR TWO POLE GRAY 4GA #3BY22
AMAZON
150 PCS BATTERY CABLE ENDS
10 TON HYDRAULIC LUG CRIMPER MODEL HWCO07000
HOME DEPOT
GARDNER BENDER 8-2 AWG HEAVY WALL HEAT SHRINK TUBING MODEL HWT-0025
KLIEIN TOOLS COMPACT CABLE CUTTER 63215
GARDNER BENDER HEAT SHRITNT HST-ASTBR
WINDYNATION 4GAUGE 5FT BLK & RED WELDING PAIR
WINDYNATION 4 GAUGE 5/16 COPPER LUGS
KNIPEX CABLE KNIFE MODEL 162016SB
IDEAL POWERPLUG DISCONNECT
NATURE POWER INVERTER 1000 WATT TRUE SINEWAVE mODEL 38310
COSTCO
CUTTING BOARD J.A. HENCKELS INTERNATIONAL 1301391
![Toyota Prius Inverter Teardown!!! [Japanese amazing technology]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Pw3JqkI6VO4/mqdefault.jpg)
You make better quality work than some "professionals"
Thank you, we try to be as clear and concise as we can. Thank for watching and taking the time to provide feedback.
I have used a similar system for several years now, with a 4000w inverter powered by the car battery plus two golf cart 6v batteries in series added in parallel. We have used it several times, including two weather events in which we lost power for 4 days. Over those 4 day periods, the Prius used about half a tank of gas. One 20 amp line was used to power our refrigerator and microwave oven. The second was used for about 10 lights plus our computers and internet service. We have the options for propane and wood heat available, so heating was not a concern. I found it was best to leave the windows on the car open a half an inch, otherwise the heat can build up inside.
Bob, nice going with your setup. I agree providing some ventilation is important, especially during warmer temps or when the vehicle is sitting in the sun. Thanks for sharing.
Great detail this is what I'm looking for is overview of installation & setup THANKS
Tim, good to hear you found the information you are looking. Thank you for taking the time to watch and write.
Great Video! I highly suggest that if anyone is going to use a set up like this to please please please buy the correct terminal lug for the wire size that you are using along with the correct crimp tool for that lug.
Determine Wire AWG
Terminal Lug - Check for specifications, if you can't find it, it's not worth using
Crimp Tool- Must be specific to the Terminal lug
Failure to properly crimp terminal ends with a system like this can cause a loss of power by overheating, and melting the poor connection possibly creating a fire.
It is definitely worth the effort and expense to get proper connectors and tools to avoid a mishap when you actually need to rely on this for power. Thank you for sharing and watching.
I definitely think it would be interesting to figure out how to pull power off the high-voltage circuit but this DC to AC solution you’ve come up with his extremely useful and safe for a home DIYer to deploy, excellent video well done.
Vince, yeah pulling power from the traction battery involves too much risk for me. We are just looking to bridge beyond the typical power outage of a few hours with while running a few basic appliances.
@@cfldriven You could take it to an EV shop and have them do it if it's possible.
Pleaze people, dont go messing with the traction battery. It can and will kill you. Great video for the average tinkerer/layman/DIY'er. Tbanks much. And loved the addition of the little bit of problem solving you did. Every little bit helps.
I have installed 240v system for EV charging, but I won't touch the traction battery. Thank you for watching, the feedback and sharing your thoughts.
Great video! You are a good teacher and you showed every step. I am going to do this with my Prius for car camping and as an emergency generator. Would a piece of tape help hold the connector to the wire while you crimp it? It could be your third hand.
Hello, This is the best tutorial type of any kind I have seen in RUclips. Thank you very very much for the great content.
Satolsa, thank you for watching and for the complement. It always nice to hear when we are doing something right.
I am an electric wiring illiterate. Can I apply this method to 2019 RAV4 Hybrid? It comes with 2.5L engine.
@@Sotoam Yes the same guidance would apply. You need to determine the output of your inverter so you can size fuse accordingly and make sure you have the correct wire thickness for the amount of amperage it output as we did in the video. I would suspect the Prius setting would work, but nice to verify.
Nice work. My setup is a little different as I have connected the 12V car battery directly to a 12V 100Ah LiFoP04 battery and then connected to an inverter.
For my needs, I feel it's a little more flexible as I can run a 12V fridge from the lithium battery and if required, I can relocate the lithium battery to wherever I need a power source. Perfect for camping and emergencies. Also I don't have a garage or off-street parking so, the car might not be next to the house to run an extension cord from inverter to a 240V appliance (I am in Australia).
Adam, thank you for watching and sharing your setup. Always good to learn others approach.
I'm in post-hurricane Houston and am interested in using one or more of my 3 (yes, 3) Priuses as an emergency generator for the next freezepocalypse or baby hurricane that comes my way. I like that I already own 3 potential generators so would not have to spend several hundred dollars on a gas- or solar- powered generator and I really like that the car is cleaner and much more fuel efficient than a gas generator. Reading fellow Houstonians post-hurricane comments, I can see that folks spent a lot on gas (gasoline and LP gas) and also used a lot of gasoline which was hard to find for a few days, defeating the purpose of having a stand-alone generator. According to very many post-storm reports, gas generators seem to use about one-half to one full gallon of gas per hour and also require frequent maintenance that I'm not terribly interested in doing.
I do not want to use the HV battery. That is beyond my skill set. I do w3ant to use the 12v battery and an inverter.
I've gathered from reviewing possibly every post or video available in the internet that I should not use a larger than 1000 watt inverter on the 12v battery to stay comfortably below maxing out the potential wattage available via the car. I have seen 2 videos and one comment (Anjunaspeak23, below) from folks have used a 2000 watt inverter, I'd like to not put any of my 3 cars in any danger since all 3 are also daily use vehicles.
Is the 1000 watt inverter the best choice for safety in your (anyone who has considered, is knowledgeable about, or has done this) opinion?
I also understand I should stay 20% below the maximum of 1000 watts available using the inverter so I was thinking that I could get a comfortable 800 watts per car. 800 watts would give me a great deal of comfort. I've determined that my fridge uses 379 watts. Caution says I should allow twice that for surges- or when the fridge needs to power up- so I calculated to allow the fridge 758 watts. Caution implies to me that I should use one car and one 1000 watt inverter as a stand-alone for the fridge only. Spending about $200 dollars on an inverter and a heavy duty power cord, and not losing a couple of hundred dollars worth of food makes this seem like a good investment. Do you (anyone who has considered, is knowledgeable about, or has done this) have an opinion on this?
I was thinking I could disconnect the fridge from time-to-time to power other kitchen stuff except that other kitchen items use a surprisingly large amount of power. For example, the coffee pot says it needs 1550 watts. The microwave says it needs 1150 watts. The tea kettle wants 1000 watts. At these numbers, I'm not sure I can actually use these other kitchen items at all if I adhere to my previous "caution" plans of 800 watts max. I guess I'm wondering if I'm being overly cautious or if I should just plan on some other method(s) of food prep.
I still have two other cars and could use one or two of them to run stuff like fans, routers, lights, and even the router household computers, since none of those items are watt-hogs. This would make life much less boring.
A final question- most inverters allow for two extension cords. I presume this means, using my cautious math, that I can only plan on about 400 watts per cord (or 500/300, 0r 200,600, etc.) Is this correct?
I guess I'd like opinions and thoughts on these plans and also opinions and thoughts on if I'm being too conservative on my planned usage of 800 watts per car.
I like that you are doing your own research. I lean towards safety margins so oversized cables and staying below what the system is capable of is a priority. As in the video I only needed to keep the frig and the nat gas tankless running. The frig actually uses very little power ruclips.net/video/V-bi-2hm-a0/видео.html unless it has been off for too long. I would not would not disconnect the fridge as it takes minimal power to maintain it's coldness versus having to cool down every few hours. Anything else I can run beyond my two items is a bonus. If you accidentally draw too much power a quality full sine wave inverter with trip. For boiling or cooking you may want to look at electric camping appliance that use less power, but are slower. We have a camp stove so that would be our go to cooking appliance and our neighbor has a gas stove and we have a standing invitation with him. Having multi cars means you have access to three generators which could make you very comfortable or keep you going for a long time with just basic power. As to extension cords 14/3 or 12/3 with the shortest run possible will be the most efficient. You don't have to split the load among two cords, if you do it can be any mix as long as the total doesn't exceed 1000 watt. After building your system run a test (use watt meter or multi meter) so you can see power usage over time and determine what you can and can not run. Remember your power needs will change during the course of the day, night and time of year. Nights are great for charging power banks, and chargeable devices.
During an outage we put the frig on battery power, if the power company estimates longer than five hours we then get the car and inverter in position.
Best of luck with your project, and here is hoping you never need to use it.
@@cfldriven I finished my project. YT does not allow commenters to post links but I created an Imgur post to describe why and how I put the project together and the results of my test run. I posted that in a couple of places for others who are also interested in doing this kind of thing.
My post about this can be found by searching "How I Prepared My 2012 Prius Hybrid For Use As An Emergency Generator To Run My Refrigerator In A Power Outage. (Long)"
Thank you so much for your advice!
@@EZas132 Congrats on the project and write up, yes I read the whole thing. I would recommend a fuse on the positive side in case of a short.
The reason the fridge used a lower amount of watts is because it is already cold. Let it warm up and then try to cool it down and you'll hit the rated wattage. Sort of like getting a car to speed uses more energy then it does to maintain that speed.
Again nice job on building a system to use system.
@@cfldriven Thanks you so much for your advice again and also for addressing the mystery of the missing Watts! And also for suffering through my long post. I'm told I'm "wordy"!
LOL!
But I wanted to leave as much information as I could after having researched the project myself for a couple of weeks. Perhaps my experience will help someone else just as yours has helped others.
I saw that the battery in my car has a fuse on it already which is why I didn't add another one. That fuse is on the "car" side of the positive battery terminal and is a 140 amp fuse.
In your opinion is that sufficient or would you still recommend adding one between the battery terminal and the inverter?
Thanks again!
@@EZas132 That fuse protects the cable coming from the engine compartment but you have nothing between the battery and inverter. Ideally it should be as close to the battery terminal as possible. It is nit picky but I rather blow a fuse and not damage more expensive equipment which is why I went with the 100 amp circuit breaker in the video. I love that you have a small fleet of vehicles able to jump into action.
Very well done. I did somewhat the same thing but I got my cables pre-made from Amazon.
Congrats on creating an energy back up system. Other than testing, I have not had the misfortune to need it. How about you?
Only used the inverter to power a microwave to show it works. Not needed to power the home emergency circuit.
You want an inverter that runs off the traction battery. Higher voltage input inverters are more efficient, and do not require high current. This also eliminates the lossed of the DC to DC converter before the inverter.
Agreed - you can purchase a complete 5KW high voltage inverter kit that connects to a Prius and other hybrid's that outputs 120/240v AC power. That's 30 amps of AC 120V power.
@@joeythedime1838 Can you share a link?
@@cfldriven I posted the link but RUclips might delete it. Search PlugOut-5.
If I get the plug out 5 and then do everything else in the video, it should work out ok yes? Great job overall on the video, explanation and helpful tips. I was already in the market for a Prius, but now this just made the decision easier! 🙏🙏🙏🙏
I'd like to see how this can be done, do you have any video resources for this?
I heard one could power some household appliances via a Prius and an inverter in case of a prolonged power-outage. So finding your video was very informative and gives me hope! I appreciate the detail of your video and the step-by-step visual instructions. Didn't really think I would go the whole 40:02, but it was so interesting that I did and then read most of the comments as well. Thank you for listing the materials used in the video. Again... very helpful. Great job!!!
Well thanks for hanging in there. I know it ran long but I wanted to make sure all the steps where included for anyone wanting to try this. Thanks for your patience.
very informative video thank you for this.
Apologies for the length. Thank you for watching.
That was beautiful although a mouthful to do. Very clean work; probably the best i’ve seen on youtube.
Are you an electrical engineer?
Too bad you didn’t list the items you used for this project; would you consider spider adding links to amazon if at least provide manufacturer and model #. Thanks.
Gotaigo, thank you for the kind words. Started out in electrical engineering and switched to broadcasting. Per your request I have added to the description the items I purchased and where I got them from. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@cfldrivenThat was helpful. Thank you!
Hello and thank you, kind sir! Top notch, educated content, 10/10!
I am looking to do this with my paid off 2018 Prius, and I have some concerns I am hoping you may be able to help me overcome. Firstly, will my later model have a higher capacity, possibly allowing me to use a 2000 watt inverter or similar? How do I find out? If that were the case, would i need thicker cables and different connectors? I am very nervous because its not the exact same model! I really appreciate you taking your time to post this video! Many blessings to you and yours! (This is my first youtube comment ever) liked, shared and subbed!
After some research, it looks like 1200w is max output for the 2018 prius dc to dc inverter, but this is based off of a comment. I cant seem to find the rating in black and white from Toyota. Can you confirm? In the same thread it is said to only use 800w as the vehicle needs some of the wattage. Is this true? I was thinking that maybe adding an external capacitor (commonly used with high output amplifiers for subwoofers) may act as a surge buffer, enabling the use of a higher wattage inverter. Thoughts?
P.S. I also plan on adding a flexible exhaust pipe with a high temp boot connected to the vehicle exhaust tip to vent directly outdoors with the garage door closed. With a carbon monoxide alarm in the garage, of course! I thought you may appreciate the idea. This serves to make the use of this almost entirely undetectable to prying eyes and even heat for the garage. Thoughts?
You will need to determine if the 2018 have capacity, I couldn't find anything online, so you may want to call the part dept of your local dealer. Higher capacity means larger cables, fuse with higher rating, and connectors to be safe.
@@cfldriven Understood, thanks for the reply. What do you think of the capacitor idea?
@@Goldentroutman007 The purpose of the traction battery is to drive the electric motors. If the car is sitting parked with all the electronics off the system is mainly just maintaining the 12V battery. Any surge caused by a device plugged in is handle by the inverter with the 12v acting as a buffer. Stay within the limits of the system and you should be fine.
Thanks
Hope you find it useful. Thanks for watching.
Very useful. Thanks for the effort.
Good to hear you found the video useful. Thank you for watching.
Thanks!. My electrical engineer (and OCD) father in law would be impressed (were he still with us). What is the feasibility of connecting the inverter directly to your house electrical panel? I would run a subset of those circuits. Namely the well pump, boiler (for in floor radiant hydronic heat), fridge, oven and some lights.
Tom, connecting the inverter directly to the house electrical system, as you might with a generator, would involve a transfer switch which can get expensive. For us the approach in the video solves a problem that occurs 1% of the time during the year at minimal cost. Thank you for watching.
your 12v system in the prius won't handle the loads created by attempting a whole house backup, get a tesla power wall then charge the power wall with the Prius. The power wall will handle the large loads while you trickle charge with the Prius
well done how many amps does the refrigerator draw. thanks for your quick reply
Anthony, thank you for taking the time to write. The refrig rated to draw a max of 5 amps, but actually uses a lot less in use.
Next video, I burned the invertor/convertor in my Prius connecting 1000W invertor to the small 12V battery! The 12v invertor in the prius is calculated for the loads the car has on the 12V bus. You trying to pull 1000W from it will end in an expensive bill for invertor/convertor assy replacement.
If you want to put an invertor in this car, you can find a DC to AC invertor that works in the voltage range of the prius traction battery and connect it and then you will have a true backup generator with your Prius. But just go and buy a cheap gasoline generator and just learn how to change oil and a spark plug.
Jozef, in the video the DC/DC outputs 125 amps, and 1812 watts. We limit the draw by using 100 amp fuse and an inverter that can only output 1000 watts. The system is purposely overbuilt for the little we ask of it. Remember purpose of this build was to run a frig, a natural gas tankless, and one or lights.
Connecting to the traction battery would allow a higher amperage draw but it not a risk I am willing to take.
@@cfldriven
As mentioned, the output load on the 12V DC/DC is calculated based on the car's needs. The idea that 125 amps are just sitting unused isn't accurate. The 12V system powers the brake pump, contactor circuits, lights, fans, and all the car's CPUs. If you think 125 amps is overbuilt, use an amp clamp meter on the engine cooling fan when the car is running hot to see its amp draw. Taking 100A with the inverter would leave only 25 amps for the car, which is barely sufficient. This would gradually strain your DC/DC converter and eventually cause it to fail.
@@uzefix Jоzef, this not a competition. In the video it is stated with car in READY to turn off other systems before using the DC/AC inverter. My HV DC current draw was under 5amps. Fan draws 2.0 amps at 14.7v and 1.7amps at 12.0v. Not sure what you mean by the car running hot, it just sitting in Park with minimal load. During the charging cycle it not getting hot enough to cause the fan to come on. The Prius is a very efficient system. Driving load is very different from just sitting with a connected DC/AC inverter.
This solution may not be for everyone but it based on research and safety considerations.
The car HAS no needs if it's sitting stationary. Stop trolling. Go make a video if you think you're an expert . You won't, because you're a childish troll @@uzefix
@@cfldriven a 300w inverter would be absolutely fine, 1 kw if you use it all of that for a long time, that's a potential problem.
The traction battery is a great way to convert an old G2 Prius, out of warranty anyways, into a long term generator with a UPS system, and thus get 2.5kw of power. Gas engine will run a lot of course at that draw, but a great way to power a home in Florida after a hurricane, or for an oil/gas furnace in Vermont after a bad winter storm killed power.
This isn't me supporting a troll, which I don't think he is, just another way to do it.
I prefer a 2 battery setup with a 1kw inverter, with a physical separation between both batteries that can be controlled, use the hybrid system to recharge at a lower amp rate the 2nd battery when needed.
Great tutorial Sir, thank you for this! What do you think, is it possible to connect cables with fuses directly to HV battery system and from HV battery system to home solar inverter (replacing with this a gas generator or one of the solar strings)?
I personally would not mess with 201.6 volt battery system, but there are kits and videos that will walk you through the process. You will need to find an inverter to go from the high voltage to your solar batteries or home voltage.
I'm puzzled what the small green ground cable is for compared to the very very large black ground cable.
The small cable is for detecting a short with inverter case. The thick cables are power and neutral which provide a different function from the ground wire. Thank you for watching.
I was expecting ur video to be for the 200v into ur home off the cars battery.
While using the high voltage traction battery is another option with the Prius, I wanted to avoid the danger and potential damage of doing it wrong. This method is easier for most people and less dangerous to vehicle and individual. Thank you for taking the time to watch and provide feedback.
Good luck on getting hot water for a shower. Also the display was showing KW power .6 would indicate 600 watt consumption for the frig.
Actually the display at 37:53 shows 0.06 which is 60 watts. The natural gas tankless only uses electricity for the exhaust blower and igniter, we are looking at less than 240 watts for the Rheem when running at full throttle. Thank you for watching and taking the time to write.
Mine ran my whole house and still almost a full take the next day. Amazing!
@@holylabs Sorry to hear about the long power outage, but great your hybrid could provide a low cost solution. Thank you for sharing.
Why did you put a fuse in the lead from the battery to inverter when the inverter is already fused?
Good question, the purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the12 V battery in case of a short. The fuse in the inverter protects against drawing too much power or a short on the 120 volt side.
My rav4 hybrid shuts down at 20min. Is there a way around that?
Mike I found this that might help "To disable auto-off, lock the doors with interior lock button (not remote) or lock doors with the physical key from the outside."
Are you sure this is all designed to work continuously. Is the 12V battery okay with the continuous discharge? The 12V 13:28 battery isn’t designed for continuous heavy discharge. I’m pretty sure the battery is designed for short periods of draw and continuous maintaining of charge. Constant load? I’m thinking the 12V battery is going to live a short life. You’ll have to keep us updated on this experiment. I always solder my joints as well. It’s easy and guarantees a solid connection.
Try thinking about it this way, when I drove over 500 miles this weekend the 12volt was supplying power for all the devices in the car, but since the DC/DC inverter supplies constant power to the car battery, it is not being drawn down, only the high voltage pack is. In our project the scenario is the same, except the car is not moving.
The difference is about 600W. I’m guessing of course, but there’s a significant draw at 1000W. You should have recorded the 12V battery health before the experiment started and then slowly increased your load duration to see if there’s any degradation. The problem is, you’re assuming everything will be fine and you’ll only be putting it to the test when the power goes out. This could take some time.
fridges have high in-rush current which can overwhelm inverter.
@@briank10101most inverters can handle the surge. Most inverters can handle double the normal output for a surge.
Thanks for sharing, what year Prius is the car. I'm in the market for a used Prius, are you happy with yours?
Roy, the car is a 2014 Prius. We are most delighted with this car. It is thrifty with gas, low maintenance, can haul of ton of stuff, can sit 5, and comfortable on cross country drives. The only negatives is it is doesn't drive like a sports car because it is not.
I have a 2 generation 2008 Prius and it has 313,000 miles and runs great. I just purchased a 2022 Venza but, I’m not going to sell my Prius it part of the family!!! 😄
@@orlandovelastegui1391Orlando, very impressive mileage, definitely a well built car. Is your Venza also a hybrid?
@@cfldriven all Venza’s from 2021-2024 come Hybrid standard.
@@orlandovelastegui1391Good to know, thank you for sharing.
If only I had found your video before buying a 1500w inverter. Do you think 1500w is too dangerous for a Prius ? I plan on running a small instapot while camping. Thanks for sharing your process, I appreciate your knowledge.
How about buying already crimped wire makes it easy for us who dont have the tools
Dayner, that certainly is an option, although you are limited by what lengths are available. I wanted the shortest runs possible and thus opted to build my own. Like you I didn't own a crimp-er and delayed this project until we had an all day outage. I shopped around and got it from Temu for less than the identical tool on Amazon. Since I still have the tool, I probably will make some cables for the EV. Thank you for watching.
I wonder what is the Prius cable gauge from DC-DC converter to the 12V battery? Did you check if that cable is rated for the current that you are pulling into the inverter?
Oleg, good question. Consulting with electrical wire charts we sized for cable that could carry in excess of 125 amps with the least amount of electrical resistance. Thank you for watching.
@@cfldriven Thanks!
I have a question if you don't mind.
Why do inverters have a redundant ground?
I've always jumped the inverter ground to the negative side of the inverter coming from the battery, I've never had any problem with this.
Is it bad to do that?
Robert, great question hope this helps.
The reason for the ground stud to body connection is to "helps prevent electrical shock to the user of the equipment should a live component touch the frame and the user touch the frame and ground at the same time."
On this inverter I get continuity between the ground stud and the chassis, and both ground and neutral on the receptacle. There is no reading from pos or neg lead to stud. I think by providing two separate paths you allow the RCD GFCI to do there job in case of power leak. Inverter manuals call for two separate paths and providing the ground stud to body is easy to do. Perhaps think of it as the neutral and ground wire in your home, which end up being bonded at the main panel.
Lexus Toyota DC DC converter s aren't rated for such continuous abuse, 30 to 40 amps is usual load with lights and accessories 1000w inverter is like 90a
You have never driven a Prius as the DC DC converter is constantly running managing current flow from engine, traction battery, HVAC, accessories, 12v battery and regen. We driven this vehicle cross country several times so continuous use is not an issue. Using this system to generate less than 1000 watts AC (actually less than 800W) cycles the engine about every 20 to 40 minutes. The DC DC is fused at 125A, we fused our system at 100A and purposely draw a lot less. For the occasional power outage I think it a great alternative to a genie, however I would not use it as off grid power source. Thank you for sharing.
How did you determine the DC-to-DC converter supports 125Amps (looking to do the same with my 2020 Corolla hybrid)
The fuse labeled "DC/DC" part number 90982-08297 is rated 125 amps, so fusing my 1KW inverter at 100 amps provides a margin of safety. Check for the DC/DC fuse rating on your Corolla.
No 1000 watt inverter is not enough because when you’re refrigerator powers up it needs about twice as much since your fridge needs about 750 watt power it will power up with 1400 -1500 watt that means your inverter will shut down so you need 2000 watt inverter
Actually the Nature Power pure sine wave is rated at 1000w but can handle 2000w peak so not an issue on our large side by side refrig. Our frig is rated at 5 amps, 600 watts at 120 volts. I have had no problem running this unit on this inverter. Most of the time the frig uses a lot less as can be seen during this test ruclips.net/video/V-bi-2hm-a0/видео.html
how did you determine the prius was 125amps?
The fuse labeled "DC/DC" part number 90982-08297 is rated 125 amps, so fusing my 1KW inverter at 100 amps provides a margin of safety.
Maintenance free? How much does a new battery pack for that thing cost? It's probably cheaper to just buy a gas generator
About the same as replacing a gas engine. It a 2014 pack and no indication of any issues. They come with 8 or 10 yr warranty, I don't recall at the moment. Toyota built a tough hard working system.
In addition, the 12V maintenance circuit probably isn’t designed for that many amps. I think you’re asking too much from a system design to only maintain a few hundred watts.
Recall about 40secs into the video that the DC to DC output is 125 amps at 14.5V which equals 1812 watts. We are pulling 1000 watts and in reality even less as the refrig and tankless drawl so little, so according to the numbers we are asking very little of the Prius system which is designed for higher output.
I thought a tankless water heater would draw 5,000 to 10,000 watts while in use
Your nuts it cost 6000 dollars for the Toyota generator 6000 for the battery pack for the Toyota you no right to mess with Toyota equipment if I was Toyota company I would sue you for messing with my equipment Just go buy a joy volt propane generator it would power all your household equipment that is important
We're a glad you enjoyed the video.
Gary, take a deep breath and relax. I own this vehicle and not Toyota so I can do as I like with it. A new battery pack is $2.5K plus labor not $6K. With the inline fuse and proper procedure there is no danger to the DC to DC converter as we never exceed its output capacity. The 12v battery only acts as buffer. As stated in the video I do not want the maintenance and storage issues of a fuel burning generator. By the way a whole gen would run at $15K for something I might need one or twice a year for a few hours. That is very poor economics. Better to use existing resources that will power the essentials for about $200.
Thank you for watching.
@@cfldriven just because you think you own the vehicle does not give the right to mess with Toyota equipment it was made for that purpose. And for 1000 dollars you can get propane generater does not smell like gasoline that job fine .But know you would rather take a 18000 car and show other people how to mess with the equipment that is not made for that your stupid video of yours it should be band from you tube. It is 6000 from Toyota for the battery and 6000 for the generater in the Toyota from the dealer It's incredible car for what it's made for and alot of people live In them not choice but it's do able
@garyhumphrey514 You must not live in a free country. Just came here to let you know I will ABSOLUTELY be doing this with my mint condition 2018 prius, without a scratch on it. I am doing this just to spite your invalid opinion on what people can or cannot do to property they OWN. I will fondle every wire and terminal connection with my dirty, sweaty hands, as I see fit. Your comment is what lead me to make this decision. Yours truly, a proud American.
@@garyhumphrey514 Gary, just to clarify I do actually do own the vehicle it is fully paid for. You can do as you like, but perhaps you should do some research to speak on this subject with some authority.