Great video, well done, thanks for your easy to understand explanation.. Cheers from Florida from a relocated Englishman who has a lot of cold beer in his future. .
Great video. I am trying to do the same setup. There is a burning question: What about the pressure and CO² buildup inside the freezer? Is it save to trap that much Co² inside a relatively sealed box? Thanks you for your answer. ;?
I've never had an issue. I've left it weeks at a time and it doesn't build up as much pressure as you think. Especially since I have the cords running through the seal in the back for my ink bird temperature controller and lizard lamp. That will let out enough pressure where it never builds up. 🍻
The ceramic bulbs that I use are 100 w. You can find them on my Amazon store, here: www.amazon.com/shop/cityscapebrewing/list/1LZQ5OOB2JHSY?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m
You're welcome! I should do an in-depth video on how I converted this refrigerator. There's a lot of steps in making sure the kegs can be supported inside the fridge.
Great video! I've used an old mini fridge before to make a fermentation chamber and did essentially what you've done here, including the same Inkbird temp controller. Glad to know I was on the right path lol. That Eva-Dry dehumidifier looks great I'll have to check that out. I have a question. I live in Florida, so very hot during summer months. Do you ever find an issue with the freezer cycling on and off too quickly during summer? Does that damage the compressor over time?
No but I keep it in my garage so it doesn't get any direct sunlight or anything.. I have two chest freezers out there, one for food and one for fermentation. But I make sure I keep them both running all of the time even if I'm not fermenting a beer. I also bring it down to freezing temperatures when not fermenting. I have found that that prevents the compressor and o-rings from drying out. 🍻
Why not monitor the ambient temperature inside the freezer instead of the beer temperature? I am afraid that because of the inertia of the freezer (accumulation of cold by the device which must cool a large mass of significant heat capacity) the temperature will continue to drop after the cooling is cut off, thus leading to a significant variation in temperature around the set point. Could you tell us what variation you actually see?
The temperature probe is against the fermenter wall, not inside of the beer, so in some respect it is measuring the ambient temperature inside the freezer. To keep it from continuing to get cold, that's where the heat source comes in. The inkbird temperature controller has a heat plug where the lizard lamp plugs in. You set the degree of variation from your ideal temperature, In my case it is 2° F. If the internal temperature of the freezer gets too cold. It will kick on the heat source and this keeps the temperature within 2° of your ideal fermentation temperature in either direction. So I don't see large swings in temperature as all.
I don't like hot spots on the beer .. wraps and mats have parts that are warmer than others but both work. Just my preference and nothing I have to move or worry about cleaning up/wetness on from freezer condensation.
@@CityscapeBrewing I never stuck my heater matt on to my beer. I stuck it to the side of my freezer. I have heard of people using seedling heat mats that are supposedly low watt density heating but have not played with this my self. TBH though I am restarting brewing from scratch and have decided to ditch the fermentation chamber and go for a poor mans glycol and heating matt starpped to the fermenter this time around. Let's see how it goes. Love the content though and really want to build a cold crash guardian. In EU soo will have to build it
Hey Dennis, thanks for this video. Super helpful. I'm fermenting my first batch using the chamber I created and have also tossed a Tilt in the wort connected to a Raspberry PI so I can follow the specific gravity and temp of the wort. The target fermentation temp for the batch I'm brewing is 67 degrees - which is what I set my InkBird to (i have the wifi enabled one - can control if from an app on your phone - awesome). The inkbird showed the temp in the chamber is about 67 on average. However, when the fermentation was peaking, the temp of the wort increased a 3-4 degrees from the heat generated from the exothermic fermentation reaction. Do I just keep the temp set on the inkbird at 67 and be ok with the temp of the wort being a few degrees higher than the target temp on the recipe or should I drop the temp in the chamber below 67 to try and off set the heat generated by fermentation to try and get the wort back down to 67 degrees? Appreciate all your hard work and effort to put this channel together.
Yes. Just set it and forget it. You can always set the invite a Degree or two less, like 65-66, if you see that happen frequently but shouldn't jump that much. I also have the wifi one now which is a huge help when not at home and use a tilt with a raspberry pi. It's a game changer to watch fermentation in real time. Glad to help and home the beer turns out awesome 🍻 I appreciate the support!
The dehumidifier is a great tip often overlooked. My chamber looks like your old one... covered in brewery stickers. It'll be a sad day when it goes. Cheers 🍻
Yeah that was a tough day. I was going to try and cut off the front but it was glued to the whole inside. So I took a picture and going to print it out on a large board to put it above my new one. Time to also get some more stickers lol
Only after fermentation during cold crashing when you turn down the temperature to the mid thirties. But I have a solution for that in this video: ruclips.net/video/bkq25VGO2qY/видео.html
Nice video. Thanks! Wondering if you had any concerns with blow off inside the chest freezer? I assume the seal is not air tight so gases can escape the freezer if using a vigorous yeast?
Nope. Never had a problem. If I think that it will be a very vigorous fermentation then I will use a hose to a mason jar half full of sanitizer and that way any blow off goes into the jar and not all over my chest freezer. I've done that quite a few times
Yes. It only takes a few minutes to warm up the inside where the temperature probe is... Then it clicks off. This helps the beer warm slowly and the lamp not get too hot and melt stuff.
I did 3 batches in the fermentation chamber I built pretty much the same as your video, and I was struggling with the heat keeping to the top of the chamber (heat rises right?) and not really getting down into the well where the carboy sits and the level of most of the liquid. I considered installing a small fan to get some air flow inside the chamber to help better distribute the heat but instead, I removed the metal shield from the lamp, rested the remainder (element) on the floor of the well next to the carboy with the element resting on a small ceramic ramekin (wanted something that didn't conduct heat well, and not sitting directly on the floor). I am getting way better heat distribution throughout the chamber now and looking at the temp trend chart, I'm not getting as large a temperature swing over time. Nothing around the heat element is subject to easy combustion or melting (as far as I can tell?) except taking care that the carboy harness isn't anywhere near it. Not sure if this is a bad idea but I really like the results. Whadaythink?
That's a good idea! You got to do what you got to do. Mine seals pretty good so I haven't had much heat loss, if I do notice that my tilt hydrometer reads lower, I'll Just raise the temperature of the ink bird a few degrees. I've seen others use seed mats or carboy wraps too that can get around the lower part. I like the lizard lamp idea because I don't have to worry about wrapping something around the carboy, or spilling on a mat.
+/- 2 degrees Fahrenheit from whatever fermentation temperature is for that beer. Most ales I ferment at 67 and then raise to 70-72 for a diacetyl rest near final gravity.
Doesn't happen that the controller turns on and off the fridge's compressor too often? this forces the compressor diminishing it's life time because if turning on after short time of turning it off the compressor needs to start against the already built pressure. It should somehow have a pause to allow decompression.
That is true when you were using it for fermentation. When I am not actively fermenting a beer, I turn it down to freezing temperatures or just plug it in directly without the temperature controller.
@@CityscapeBrewing It switches on and off how often you know? We can try to figure out some timer mechanism to prevent it to re switch on in 20 minutes or so. That would increase the lifespan of the fridge.
Interesting that you mentioned that you leave the freezer plugged in and on low. I was hoping to just use mine for fermentation and unplug it when not using to save electricity. I have several refrigerators and freezers and didn’t want to keep this one running. Your comments about keeping, the O-rings from getting brittle is a good suggestion
I had my last one start leaking refrigerant because I left it unplugged and open too often. Doesn't cost too much to let it run, cheaper than buying a new one. 🍻
Nice. Yeah I had mine on life support for a year feeding it refrigerant once in a while... It finally decided it wasn't going to cool at all the other day.
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Great video, well done, thanks for your easy to understand explanation.. Cheers from Florida from a relocated Englishman who has a lot of cold beer in his future. .
Thanks! Glad you liked it! 🍻 Cheers
Nice job. That was a no fuss conversion. I use an inkbird just like that on mine.
Thanks! Glad you liked it. More to come!
Great video. I am trying to do the same setup. There is a burning question: What about the pressure and CO² buildup inside the freezer? Is it save to trap that much Co² inside a relatively sealed box? Thanks you for your answer. ;?
I've never had an issue. I've left it weeks at a time and it doesn't build up as much pressure as you think. Especially since I have the cords running through the seal in the back for my ink bird temperature controller and lizard lamp. That will let out enough pressure where it never builds up. 🍻
Gotta get the dehumidifier!!!
Definitely a must have!
Thank you for this very good video. Could you please tell me what should be the electrical power of the heating element ? 50W, 100 W or more ?
The ceramic bulbs that I use are 100 w. You can find them on my Amazon store, here: www.amazon.com/shop/cityscapebrewing/list/1LZQ5OOB2JHSY?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m
Thanks for showing how to make one like your kegerator I plan on turning my Refrigerator in to one
You're welcome! I should do an in-depth video on how I converted this refrigerator. There's a lot of steps in making sure the kegs can be supported inside the fridge.
@@CityscapeBrewing I would like that I really like your channel learn alot
I'll put it on the list to do. Wouldn't be that hard to put up a video next week. Keep an eye out! 👍
Great video! I've used an old mini fridge before to make a fermentation chamber and did essentially what you've done here, including the same Inkbird temp controller. Glad to know I was on the right path lol. That Eva-Dry dehumidifier looks great I'll have to check that out.
I have a question. I live in Florida, so very hot during summer months. Do you ever find an issue with the freezer cycling on and off too quickly during summer? Does that damage the compressor over time?
No but I keep it in my garage so it doesn't get any direct sunlight or anything.. I have two chest freezers out there, one for food and one for fermentation. But I make sure I keep them both running all of the time even if I'm not fermenting a beer. I also bring it down to freezing temperatures when not fermenting. I have found that that prevents the compressor and o-rings from drying out. 🍻
@@CityscapeBrewing thank you for the quick reply!
Why not monitor the ambient temperature inside the freezer instead of the beer temperature?
I am afraid that because of the inertia of the freezer (accumulation of cold by the device which must cool a large mass of significant heat capacity) the temperature will continue to drop after the cooling is cut off, thus leading to a significant variation in temperature around the set point.
Could you tell us what variation you actually see?
The temperature probe is against the fermenter wall, not inside of the beer, so in some respect it is measuring the ambient temperature inside the freezer. To keep it from continuing to get cold, that's where the heat source comes in. The inkbird temperature controller has a heat plug where the lizard lamp plugs in. You set the degree of variation from your ideal temperature, In my case it is 2° F. If the internal temperature of the freezer gets too cold. It will kick on the heat source and this keeps the temperature within 2° of your ideal fermentation temperature in either direction. So I don't see large swings in temperature as all.
Why would you not use a heating mat for reptiles? What are the pros of the ceramic lamp vs a heating mat?
I don't like hot spots on the beer .. wraps and mats have parts that are warmer than others but both work. Just my preference and nothing I have to move or worry about cleaning up/wetness on from freezer condensation.
@@CityscapeBrewing I never stuck my heater matt on to my beer. I stuck it to the side of my freezer.
I have heard of people using seedling heat mats that are supposedly low watt density heating but have not played with this my self.
TBH though I am restarting brewing from scratch and have decided to ditch the fermentation chamber and go for a poor mans glycol and heating matt starpped to the fermenter this time around. Let's see how it goes.
Love the content though and really want to build a cold crash guardian. In EU soo will have to build it
Hey Dennis, thanks for this video. Super helpful. I'm fermenting my first batch using the chamber I created and have also tossed a Tilt in the wort connected to a Raspberry PI so I can follow the specific gravity and temp of the wort. The target fermentation temp for the batch I'm brewing is 67 degrees - which is what I set my InkBird to (i have the wifi enabled one - can control if from an app on your phone - awesome). The inkbird showed the temp in the chamber is about 67 on average. However, when the fermentation was peaking, the temp of the wort increased a 3-4 degrees from the heat generated from the exothermic fermentation reaction. Do I just keep the temp set on the inkbird at 67 and be ok with the temp of the wort being a few degrees higher than the target temp on the recipe or should I drop the temp in the chamber below 67 to try and off set the heat generated by fermentation to try and get the wort back down to 67 degrees? Appreciate all your hard work and effort to put this channel together.
Yes. Just set it and forget it. You can always set the invite a Degree or two less, like 65-66, if you see that happen frequently but shouldn't jump that much. I also have the wifi one now which is a huge help when not at home and use a tilt with a raspberry pi. It's a game changer to watch fermentation in real time. Glad to help and home the beer turns out awesome 🍻 I appreciate the support!
What size carboy is in this video?
6.5 gallon glass big mouth bubbler
The dehumidifier is a great tip often overlooked. My chamber looks like your old one... covered in brewery stickers. It'll be a sad day when it goes. Cheers 🍻
Yeah that was a tough day. I was going to try and cut off the front but it was glued to the whole inside. So I took a picture and going to print it out on a large board to put it above my new one. Time to also get some more stickers lol
What temp do I need to start worrying about suck back? Thinking might making one of these soley for lagers and marzens haha
Only after fermentation during cold crashing when you turn down the temperature to the mid thirties. But I have a solution for that in this video: ruclips.net/video/bkq25VGO2qY/видео.html
@@CityscapeBrewing good to know, thanks! I'll check that out
Nice video. Thanks! Wondering if you had any concerns with blow off inside the chest freezer? I assume the seal is not air tight so gases can escape the freezer if using a vigorous yeast?
Nope. Never had a problem. If I think that it will be a very vigorous fermentation then I will use a hose to a mason jar half full of sanitizer and that way any blow off goes into the jar and not all over my chest freezer. I've done that quite a few times
Nice, so I assume that heating element works fine to warm the whole inside?
Yes. It only takes a few minutes to warm up the inside where the temperature probe is... Then it clicks off. This helps the beer warm slowly and the lamp not get too hot and melt stuff.
I did 3 batches in the fermentation chamber I built pretty much the same as your video, and I was struggling with the heat keeping to the top of the chamber (heat rises right?) and not really getting down into the well where the carboy sits and the level of most of the liquid. I considered installing a small fan to get some air flow inside the chamber to help better distribute the heat but instead, I removed the metal shield from the lamp, rested the remainder (element) on the floor of the well next to the carboy with the element resting on a small ceramic ramekin (wanted something that didn't conduct heat well, and not sitting directly on the floor). I am getting way better heat distribution throughout the chamber now and looking at the temp trend chart, I'm not getting as large a temperature swing over time. Nothing around the heat element is subject to easy combustion or melting (as far as I can tell?) except taking care that the carboy harness isn't anywhere near it. Not sure if this is a bad idea but I really like the results. Whadaythink?
That's a good idea! You got to do what you got to do. Mine seals pretty good so I haven't had much heat loss, if I do notice that my tilt hydrometer reads lower, I'll Just raise the temperature of the ink bird a few degrees. I've seen others use seed mats or carboy wraps too that can get around the lower part. I like the lizard lamp idea because I don't have to worry about wrapping something around the carboy, or spilling on a mat.
What’s your cooling and heating differentials set to?
+/- 2 degrees Fahrenheit from whatever fermentation temperature is for that beer. Most ales I ferment at 67 and then raise to 70-72 for a diacetyl rest near final gravity.
@@CityscapeBrewing thanks!
Doesn't happen that the controller turns on and off the fridge's compressor too often? this forces the compressor diminishing it's life time because if turning on after short time of turning it off the compressor needs to start against the already built pressure. It should somehow have a pause to allow decompression.
That is true when you were using it for fermentation. When I am not actively fermenting a beer, I turn it down to freezing temperatures or just plug it in directly without the temperature controller.
@@CityscapeBrewing It switches on and off how often you know? We can try to figure out some timer mechanism to prevent it to re switch on in 20 minutes or so. That would increase the lifespan of the fridge.
That it wouldn't work because it would allow it to cool too much. It runs depending how hot it is in my garage.
Interesting that you mentioned that you leave the freezer plugged in and on low. I was hoping to just use mine for fermentation and unplug it when not using to save electricity. I have several refrigerators and freezers and didn’t want to keep this one running. Your comments about keeping, the O-rings from getting brittle is a good suggestion
I had my last one start leaking refrigerant because I left it unplugged and open too often. Doesn't cost too much to let it run, cheaper than buying a new one. 🍻
Finally got a new one. Lol
Nice. Yeah I had mine on life support for a year feeding it refrigerant once in a while... It finally decided it wasn't going to cool at all the other day.