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It all depends on how much flavor you want in the beer. For fruited sour beers I use about 1 pound per gallon, or 0.5kg per 2.2 liters metric. You add those after fermentation preferably in a secondary vessel. For zest it matters what fruit you are using. Limes use way less, but for oranges it would be about 30 grams in the fermenter post fermentation or late boil.

Do you use an app like brewers friend or beer smith? This will help you figure out the right amounts for the style. When selecting the style, it shows if the ABV and SRM(color), etc. is within the correct range for that style. Typically for a smash pale ale, 9-10 lbs of grains is sufficient for a 5 gallon batch, but hops will depend on the variety you are using since all have different amounts of alpha acids. You can also just search smash recipes for the hops and grains you are using and do that for your first batch.

@ I’ve heard of them but haven’t picked one yet, is there one you recommend?

It doesn't matter the app, but I use brewer's friend. A lot of what I show on my videos and live streams are using that website, but all of them have their pros and cons.

@ I appreciate it yeah, after watching this video, I decided to do that clone of the Sierra Nevada for my first beer

It isn't so much as the quantity, but more about when you add them. For NEIPAs you want to do at the very end of the boil or even after during fermentation (high Krausen). Adding them early adds bitterness so that's why you want to add them very late boil or at flameout for less bitterness 20-25 IBU. For that volume I would add 6- 10 oz total between boil/flameout and dry hopping.

@@CityscapeBrewing Yeah dry hopping for sure.

Haha ... But once you do... There's no going back. Have a homebrew. 🤘🍻

I do have a German pils video I did this year, but I have plans for a Czech pilsner and Hefe from Weinstephen too! Stay tuned. 🤘🍻

Fermentation temp is typically what I do.

Haha glad to help!

Yep, I usually reuse the whole trub as well. I wanted to show the washing portion for those that want to use it for a very different beer style

@@CityscapeBrewing 1 thing i see people not talking about in US made beer videos, is that they do not talk about yeast being stronger, after they fermented something, and its not accually the same as starter. Sadly i see most of videos talking about trub, as mostly useless mess, than big big colony of way more stronger yeast strain.

@dodobird4155 agreed

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks man!! 🍻

Yeah this was common a long time ago but not as common today... It is really neat to see that in person and it surprised me a lot.

This was definitely a highlight! Awesome place to visit! 🍻

😂

I add 4 g of ascorbic acid in the mash, after stirring in the grains, for most beers. It helps preservation and prevents oxidation. Does it matter if it's a lager or ale, but very important for a certain styles like hazy IPAs and West Coast IPAs that are very hoppy.

@@CityscapeBrewing ok thank you. ill remember that. and yes i know about the hoppy ipa. ive done a few and more then enough times they get oxidized and brown. once i made an ipa and when it was time to drink i opened it up just to smell dead rotting fruit smell it was bad!!

Love 34/70 yeast. It's a beast and does a great job. Sounds like a good recipe to me! Let me know how it turns out! 🍻

@@CityscapeBrewing will do! give me a few months hahah. my mexican lager i recently made will be ready friday.

I am not sure... All I can think of is that you might not have it tightened down all the way because you only get foam when it's getting air or over pressured. I use about 10 ft of serving line in order to slow the beer down and prevent foam, but that is for any faucet, spring or not.

Kveik Yeast is one that you don't need to worry about making a starter for as much. It actually likes being underpitched to give some more desirable flavors. Most yeast strains give negative or undesirable off flavors, but kveik Yeast is the exception. Some people even pitch low on purpose.

I have not done that, but brulosophy did a video on that a while ago. I should try that soon.

No I haven't had an issue. The important thing is to put the washers in the correct places, and use Teflon tape on the threads to stop any leaks. The white silicone washer on the inside of the kettle and red one on the outside.

@CityscapeBrewing Thanks for the quick response. I love your channel as I am brand new to home brewing. I wanted to give a quick update. My model came with a very short strand of Teflon tape so I definitely realize now that I did a very poor job of wrapping, probably only one time around and not covering it completely. Today I went to a hardware store and got more Teflon tape (99¢) and I gave it a much better job wrapping probably going around 6 times and fully covered. This completely fixed my leakage. In case anyone has the same issue.

@BigAl2918 awesome. Glad you got it fixed! 🍻🤘

Good question but no, because when you take off the tubing, or go to transfer it, it will suck oxygen into the tank because of the reverse pressure. The bag keeps the pressure even.

Thank you great infomation. One more question that is i normally use blow-off tube and when bottling i dont take off the tube but fill it with a little sanitizer, allow a bit oxygen being suck in to let beer flow out the spigot (basic pressure stuff). So its my first time using these coldcrashguardian, would i remove this setup and connect the normal tubing when transfer?

@milkcoffee4124 yes you can but won't have the suck back, so minimum oxygen getting in with the quick change

Sweet! 👍 🍻

That is totally fine just the way you do it.

If you have a large enough eldermeyer flask then you could ramp up to 2-3L from there. I haven't had a need to go larger for a 5 gallon batch, and I don't have any yeast stored, but I imagine a 2L starter would make about 8-10 Yeast banks you could use to make new starters in the future.

@ thank you!