It's good I've used if for years now. But, there's always a BUT isn't there, it is water based so if you just leave it sitting on tools or equipment it can rust them. Just a matter of keeping stuff cleaned up at the end of the day, a good practice anyway.
It's ok. Not groundbreaking. And it's EXPENSIVE. I can buy one gallon of generic thread cutting oil for about 32 bucks locally. I paid 23 bucks for one pint of Anchor Lube. The Anchor lube cost $1.30 per fluid oz, vs .30 per ounce of cutting oil (in the one gallon jug). Obviously, if I bought a larger size of the Anchor lube, the cost per ounce would come down, but it would be at a much bigger outlay of cash out of pocket. I use the Anchor lube for some things, and I do like the fact that it does not smoke. But I dilute it with water, keep it in small sealed can, and apply it with a flux brush. There's no benefit to gooping on more than can be applied to the cutting tool. We can see in John's vids, even though he's trying to use small amounts, that more than half the product never touches the cutting tool.
That stainless is cold rolled 316L stainless, no wonder it is so hard as it is meant to be welded, then annealed, as it comes it is a bloody pain to do anything with.
Another great review, thanks John. So far I’ve been unable to access this product in New Zealand. One of the things that I like about it is no smoke! Thanks again
Apologies in advance lads, but when John said "It drilled it, but it wasn't happy", I nearly shot beer outta my nose laughing. Brought back memories of mornings after a night in the pub with a portly lass... I'da wished I had some Anchorlube then! lol
I remember using this years ago, no idea if it was water based then, definitely a plus on low, or near zero fumes. I've seen comments on that it stains, or rusts parts/tools, but Rocal Metalworking fluid stains quite badly if not cleaned off. Non-ferrous materials stain badly on most metalworking fluids, hence WD 40 or Paraffin used on aluminium. Great honest and thorough review John.
@RicktheRecorder 2 hours ago Everyone has been lamenting how deprived we non-Americans have been, but now it's available here our lives are to be transformed. So I've got some, and did a test drilling and manual tapping M10 into some 304 stainless steel. One hole using the Martian Snot and one using my cheap Miller Oils tapping fluid. Tried different speeds. Result? Lots of squeal, jamming and snatching from the Anchorlube. A mainly smooth and lubricated cut with the Miller. Only downside is the degreasing necessary. There doesn't seem to be much lube in Anchorlube. Intuitively, something water-based is likely to struggle with high pressure lubrication challenges, unless it has some miracle additive. It is not evident to me.
Iv spent a bit of time on a bridge port and 1 of the dirty time consuming on going maintenance/house keeping type jobs Is getting the oil off the coolant, yes I know a lot of this is way oil from the gibs but going to a water based tapping lube has got to keep the coolant cleaner I assume ? ( Incidentally I usually hold a wet + dry hoover 1/2” above the coolant in the morning when the oils settled on the surface and gently draw off the oil )
I purchased my first container of Anchorlube a couple of weeks ago. I like this for threading, sticks to the tools and metal well. I like that it is a paste so does not run off the work.
Anything water based is going to rust the ways if you don't clean the lathe at the end of the day. Clean and oil the ways when you have finished using the machine. It isn't that hard is it when you clearly get the benefits that John has demonstrated here?
After seeing everyone using it on here, I've tried a bottle in my shop, tbh in my opinion it's good stuff, no better than other top end cutting lubes, but with the added advantages of no nasty petrochemical stuff, and no harmful smoke as its water based, however this can lead to rust if not wiped up I'll most likely keep using it, but from a tub with a brush, as well as the squirty bottle, as the latter can be messy/wasteful
Its expensive. For those of us who buy everything (vs sponsored as some You Tubers are) we have to be careful with funds. I can buy a gallon of generic cutting oil for the same price as one pint of Anchor lube. I cut the Anchor lube with water keep it in a closed can, and apply with a flux brush. Johns application technique wastes a lot of it unnecessarily.
Nice useful demo John .I've seen Abom using it regularly too. Will give it a go . By the way ,I really like the Cleveland no nonsense HSCC drills ever since You first showed them on a video as a prize way also .
I love the look of the stuff as I've seen so many stateside RUclipsrs using and praising it, I looked last week and found the ad on eBay that John put up and at £23 inc postage for the 8 Oz size. It's a little pricy, but if it does the business then it's worth it.
I'm impressed with the performance and it is very popular but it is quite expensive and I do like the smell of Rocol and I've got a big tin of the stuff!
IVE used it for many years I think back in the 1970swhen it first came out small sample were for the asking. I was hook when using it on tungsten parts for the air force.. GReat stuff try it on monel.
It works great as a lubricant but it will also cause rust on anything that is steel because it's water based. Just be sure to clean it from your projects and your tools.
@@RicktheRecorder I cant see why everyone is so excited. Its okay and if diluted makes a mess of the machine leaving horrible rusty stain. I will use it up but will get more RTD soon.
Nowadays it’s hard to find a RUclipsr that doesn’t use it. Either it’s really good at lubricating, or the manufacturer is really good at marketing …
It's good I've used if for years now. But, there's always a BUT isn't there, it is water based so if you just leave it sitting on tools or equipment it can rust them. Just a matter of keeping stuff cleaned up at the end of the day, a good practice anyway.
It's ok. Not groundbreaking. And it's EXPENSIVE. I can buy one gallon of generic thread cutting oil for about 32 bucks locally. I paid 23 bucks for one pint of Anchor Lube. The Anchor lube cost $1.30 per fluid oz, vs .30 per ounce of cutting oil (in the one gallon jug). Obviously, if I bought a larger size of the Anchor lube, the cost per ounce would come down, but it would be at a much bigger outlay of cash out of pocket.
I use the Anchor lube for some things, and I do like the fact that it does not smoke. But I dilute it with water, keep it in small sealed can, and apply it with a flux brush. There's no benefit to gooping on more than can be applied to the cutting tool. We can see in John's vids, even though he's trying to use small amounts, that more than half the product never touches the cutting tool.
It's decent, not as good as the waxy paste type stiff lubricants, but it's alright.
There has been a concerted marketing push, it would seem.
I think the latter.
I got some after seeing you use it. Really like it for tapping
That stainless is cold rolled 316L stainless, no wonder it is so hard as it is meant to be welded, then annealed, as it comes it is a bloody pain to do anything with.
Today I received your super prize i won in your giveaway. Thanks the last word indicator is a gem .
Sorry John but water is a solvent.
Another great review, thanks John. So far I’ve been unable to access this product in New Zealand. One of the things that I like about it is no smoke! Thanks again
The first time I used Anchorlube was about 1970. I was impressed. I was also a nice break from the old stinky dark cutting oil.
Apologies in advance lads, but when John said "It drilled it, but it wasn't happy", I nearly shot beer outta my nose laughing. Brought back memories of mornings after a night in the pub with a portly lass... I'da wished I had some Anchorlube then! lol
I remember using this years ago, no idea if it was water based then, definitely a plus on low, or near zero fumes. I've seen comments on that it stains, or rusts parts/tools, but Rocal Metalworking fluid stains quite badly if not cleaned off. Non-ferrous materials stain badly on most metalworking fluids, hence WD 40 or Paraffin used on aluminium.
Great honest and thorough review John.
@RicktheRecorder
2 hours ago
Everyone has been lamenting how deprived we non-Americans have been, but now it's available here our lives are to be transformed. So I've got some, and did a test drilling and manual tapping M10 into some 304 stainless steel. One hole using the Martian Snot and one using my cheap Miller Oils tapping fluid. Tried different speeds. Result? Lots of squeal, jamming and snatching from the Anchorlube. A mainly smooth and lubricated cut with the Miller. Only downside is the degreasing necessary. There doesn't seem to be much lube in Anchorlube. Intuitively, something water-based is likely to struggle with high pressure lubrication challenges, unless it has some miracle additive. It is not evident to me.
Iv spent a bit of time on a bridge port and 1 of the dirty time consuming on going maintenance/house keeping type jobs Is getting the oil off the coolant, yes I know a lot of this is way oil from the gibs but going to a water based tapping lube has got to keep the coolant cleaner I assume ?
( Incidentally I usually hold a wet + dry hoover 1/2” above the coolant in the morning when the oils settled on the surface and gently draw off the oil )
Hi John
Could you give me a link on a set of high speed drill set
As there a lot of China shit out there
Regards Garry
I purchased my first container of Anchorlube a couple of weeks ago. I like this for threading, sticks to the tools and metal well. I like that it is a paste so does not run off the work.
Made in the Cleveland, Ohio area. Glad they are expanding out to other areas.
One of Abom79’s favourites as you probably already know 👍😉… all the best John 🇬🇧👌
Doesn't it rust the ways of the lathe and metal?
If the ways are kept lubricated when you clean you should be removing any residue that could start rust.
Anything water based is going to rust the ways if you don't clean the lathe at the end of the day. Clean and oil the ways when you have finished using the machine. It isn't that hard is it when you clearly get the benefits that John has demonstrated here?
as it says on the tin good
After seeing everyone using it on here, I've tried a bottle in my shop, tbh in my opinion it's good stuff, no better than other top end cutting lubes, but with the added advantages of no nasty petrochemical stuff, and no harmful smoke as its water based, however this can lead to rust if not wiped up
I'll most likely keep using it, but from a tub with a brush, as well as the squirty bottle, as the latter can be messy/wasteful
Its expensive. For those of us who buy everything (vs sponsored as some You Tubers are) we have to be careful with funds. I can buy a gallon of generic cutting oil for the same price as one pint of Anchor lube. I cut the Anchor lube with water keep it in a closed can, and apply with a flux brush. Johns application technique wastes a lot of it unnecessarily.
Nice useful demo John .I've seen Abom using it regularly too. Will give it a go .
By the way ,I really like the Cleveland no nonsense HSCC drills ever since You first showed them on a video as a prize way also .
Thanks for the review John, looks good enough for me, I’ll save up my pension for some.
I love the look of the stuff as I've seen so many stateside RUclipsrs using and praising it, I looked last week and found the ad on eBay that John put up and at £23 inc postage for the 8 Oz size. It's a little pricy, but if it does the business then it's worth it.
John, cheers of the review. And link to eBay. Have purchased some
I'm impressed with the performance and it is very popular but it is quite expensive and I do like the smell of Rocol and I've got a big tin of the stuff!
IVE used it for many years I think back in the 1970swhen it first came out small sample were for the asking. I was hook when using it on tungsten parts for the air force.. GReat stuff try it on monel.
Looks like Water Based Pipe Joint Lubricant we used on the O-Rings laying the big Water Pipelines.
I will stick with ilocut 486 and rocol, because I have a lifetime supply. It looks like an excellent product though.
It works great as a lubricant but it will also cause rust on anything that is steel because it's water based. Just be sure to clean it from your projects and your tools.
Looks like I'll be ditching the tin of nasty rocol and getting some of this.👍👍
I have used that Lube before it's great on machines !
My tin of RTD paste is nearly empty after 40 years so its a good time to get some Anchorlube.
My RTD is also almost empty, so I got the Anchorlube. I am not impressed.
@@RicktheRecorder I cant see why everyone is so excited. Its okay and if diluted makes a mess of the machine leaving horrible rusty stain. I will use it up but will get more RTD soon.
Anchorlube is all that i use new in my home shop , great stuff.
Bit late to the party there's lot on YT passing the stuff
I wonder if it's harder to get in the UK.
@@gth042I think it is but hopefully not for long.