Dude, thank you so much for this video. My wife had this problem today and we thought we would have to limp the car to a mechanic. I saw this video and did the repair myself. You totally saved us. Cheers.
Wife’s truck went into limp mode tonight. Got the same code on the side of the road, watched the video and changed it in under ten minutes. Up and running. Thank for the video!
Also in my case, the VTM 4lock, check engine, and battery light came on. After changing oil pressure sensor just check engine light was on but cleared after about 10-15 miles of driving.
Worked for me, code is off, eco light comes on. Hardest part was finding/retrieving old oil pressure sensor after dropping it. Finally remembered telescoping magnet wand - worked like a charm. Thank you!!
90% of time, if the engine light is on, the VTM-4 light turns on. Which means the 4x4 is turned off. Usually a scanner will show you a code that tells you to check the engine system
For those un-informed about the Variable Compression Management (VCM) issues, and the engine failure it can cause, then look into the VCM bypass/delete options that are available. Every car manufacturer that has produced ‘cylinder de-activation’ (eg Ford, GM, MB, etc) vehicles in the past and present all prematurely end up in junkyards!
@ Variable Cylinder Management (VCM) is not a valve, it is a system comprising of many parts and computer logic. To learn more about the technology, search Wikipedia or Google search ‘VCM’.
Why do you have to seat the oring first instead of positioning in place prior to putting the new sensor on it? Seems like an opportunity to drop the o ring.
My local firestone said all parts that may need to be replaced were prior to me bringing my 2010 Accord to them. Said it needs the ECM/PCM to be updated to clear permanent code. Any input?
Permanent codes will ALWAYS be stored in the PCM unless cleared thru dealerships software. No amount of drive cycles will clear permanent codes. A vehicle CAN pass emissions inspections if there are permanent codes stored as long as all monitors are Ready and the CEL is not on. There are three types of code storage: Pending Code. Stored Code. Permeant Code.
This did not clear the P3400 code for me. I have eliminated the other possible causes, except bad wiring. Oil is clean and full. I cleanned the MAF sesor too. It's time to take it to someone. Changing the oil pressure sensor is a one-minute task. Nothing to it.
Would a dirty oil filter throw this code had this issue replaced vcm valve ran fine about a year now having the same issue but sensor appears to be working thought maybe the filter from sitting?
Hi Garrett, It will take a bit of drive time usually for the check engine light to clear on it’s own, but you can reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery, or by clearing the codes with a scan tool/code reader. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
And BANK 2? Isn't there an oil pressure sensor there as well? If. So, is it for the rockers? Someone put a 100 ohms jumper on mine for some reason, and I think that the vvt is not properly oiling the rockers on Bank 2
The videos exist. The most common method is to install an SVCM or the less expensive VCM Muzzler. SVCM is "self-aligning" while Muzzler requires manual alignment. There are RUclips videos addressing both products. The computer will not activate VCM until a certain operating temperature threshold is surpassed. Both products modify the temperature signal to remain below the activation threshold.
I replaced the oil pressure switch P3400 code on bank 1, but can’t get the check engine light to go off and the code to clear. How many engine cycles does it take to clear the code?
Question, Question does the plug that goes to it, has 12 voltage while electric texting , my 08 pilot is running on 3 cylinders, I text it the oil pressure sensor plug, but I don't get no circuit, ...
Limp Mode, maybe. But knocking? No, that’s something else. Check ur oil levels. Or could be something inside the timing belt system. Like a tensioner etc
I was about to change my purge valve then I saw your video. I have 3400 AND 3497, so I will have to replace both? It's 2011 pilot if you don't mind showing locations:-). Thanks
@jimenezroberto55 Ok,thanks but at the same time leaving this disconnected has worked wonders for my Honda do you think it will harm engine if I leave this disconnected?
Sorry you're still having trouble with it. That Sensor is usually the culprit, but it could be several other things as well. Here's a pretty good write up that might help you diagnose the problem: www.backyardmechanic.org/how-to-fix-honda-engine-error-code-p3400/
I have changed the alternator and then after one week I got check engine and VTM-4 on the dashboard. If I change the same part in this video, will my problem get solved ?😢😢😢
You need to get the codes read on the vehicle to see what is causing the check engine light and vtm-4 light to come on. You can buy a very inexpensive code reader on amazon.com. Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@mohammadal-motaaem3153 The P3400 code refers to a problem with the Cylinder Deactivation System, which is responsible for improving fuel efficiency by disabling specific cylinders during light-load driving conditions. The most common cause for this code is low oil level or dirty oil, or a bad sensor like I changed in this video. The B1239 code is an Open or Short in the Drivers Mode Control Motor Circuit. And the B1245 code is a short in the rear air mix control motor circuit. HVAC control unit. Signal error. The B1246 is problem in the rear air mix control motor circuit, linkage, door, or motor. HVAC control unit. You might want to make sure your battery and grounds are all good first since you're getting multiple possibly unrelated codes. Or, you may just have a few different problems. Since you said that you have just changed the alternator, I would double check that your battery is good. Maybe go get it tested/charged and make sure all the connections are good first. That's where I would start. Then, maybe try the oil pressure sensor next... Best of luck to you. -Dan the Fix it Man
Hi Eric, I don’t believe there is one specific oil life monitor type of sensor in this vehicle that determines the Oil Life Percentage. It’s possible that the computer could be getting an incorrect reading if that sensor is dirty or bad, but you would probably get a check engine light as well. The manual says: “Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard computer in your vehicle calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage.” It might also be using the signal or pressure reading from the two upper oil pressure switches, but I am really not sure. Of course, I am assuming you reset the oil life percentage after you changed the oil? Does the oil look dirty already after 2 weeks? How many miles have you driven it? The operating temperatures are also be a factor in the oil life percentage…
Thanks for writing back. Yes I reset oil life after. The check engine was on before I changed the oil and the vtm-4 is coming on sometimes as well. USPS just delivered the oil sensor. Im going to replace it tomorrow morning. What size socket do I need?
Thanks for the video, Dan. I had the same 3400 code on my 2013 Honda Pilot, the oil life dropped to 70% after 300 miles & the VTM-4 light also came on same time. How many driving cycles or miles does the car have to go put out the MIL & VTM-4 lights please? Thanks
Usually the code is very specific, but bad oil, spark plugs, coils or injectors can cause it. Many other things as well can cause bank 1 to deactivate like the VTEC Solenoids. I would suggest you get it scanned. Also, I only put OEM sensors. Aftermarket tend to fail more than you want to and cause confusion. Good luck
Dude, thank you so much for this video. My wife had this problem today and we thought we would have to limp the car to a mechanic. I saw this video and did the repair myself. You totally saved us. Cheers.
@@modernarizona happy to hear it helped you out!
Wife’s truck went into limp mode tonight. Got the same code on the side of the road, watched the video and changed it in under ten minutes. Up and running. Thank for the video!
Also in my case, the VTM 4lock, check engine, and battery light came on. After changing oil pressure sensor just check engine light was on but cleared after about 10-15 miles of driving.
Worked for me, code is off, eco light comes on. Hardest part was finding/retrieving old oil pressure sensor after dropping it. Finally remembered telescoping magnet wand - worked like a charm. Thank you!!
Disable the vcm
Huge thanks for putting this video out. Saved me a bundle!
Could this also activate a vtm-4 light?
90% of time, if the engine light is on, the VTM-4 light turns on. Which means the 4x4 is turned off. Usually a scanner will show you a code that tells you to check the engine system
I have the same thing too
Yes, .mine did the same.
For those un-informed about the Variable Compression Management (VCM) issues, and the engine failure it can cause, then look into the VCM bypass/delete options that are available. Every car manufacturer that has produced ‘cylinder de-activation’ (eg Ford, GM, MB, etc) vehicles in the past and present all prematurely end up in junkyards!
I’m curious what exactly is it I’m constantly having problems with the vcm valve
@ Variable Cylinder Management (VCM) is not a valve, it is a system comprising of many parts and computer logic. To learn more about the technology, search Wikipedia or Google search ‘VCM’.
Thanks for the great update, it's a big help. I was just curious what's the app you're using on your phone for all those notifications?
Why do you have to seat the oring first instead of positioning in place prior to putting the new sensor on it? Seems like an opportunity to drop the o ring.
It's bigger diameter than the threads, recessed in valve assby seals on sensor flat.
Another video says rear bank cylinders 456 is on front of manifold towards bumper, front bank 123 is the manifold closest to firewall.
Thanks, I am going to change both on my wife’s Pilot today
My local firestone said all parts that may need to be replaced were prior to me bringing my 2010 Accord to them. Said it needs the ECM/PCM to be updated to clear permanent code. Any input?
Permanent codes will ALWAYS be stored in the PCM unless cleared thru dealerships software. No amount of drive cycles will clear permanent codes.
A vehicle CAN pass emissions inspections if there are permanent codes stored as long as all monitors are Ready and the CEL is not on.
There are three types of code storage:
Pending Code.
Stored Code.
Permeant Code.
This did not clear the P3400 code for me. I have eliminated the other possible causes, except bad wiring. Oil is clean and full. I cleanned the MAF sesor too. It's time to take it to someone. Changing the oil pressure sensor is a one-minute task. Nothing to it.
What was wrong with your car?
What ended up being the issue?
@@nightmarerealm213 Oil pressure sensor.
Would a dirty oil filter throw this code had this issue replaced vcm valve ran fine about a year now having the same issue but sensor appears to be working thought maybe the filter from sitting?
I have the same issue today, ody runs rough to 3000rpm only. Gonna try this tomorrow. What is limp mode?
Thanks for the video. Should the check engine light disappear immediately after this fix?
Hi Garrett,
It will take a bit of drive time usually for the check engine light to clear on it’s own, but you can reset the check engine light by disconnecting the battery, or by clearing the codes with a scan tool/code reader.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Great explanation. Thanks so much for sharing
Thank you sir, today, you was my hero
And BANK 2? Isn't there an oil pressure sensor there as well? If. So, is it for the rockers? Someone put a 100 ohms jumper on mine for some reason, and I think that the vvt is not properly oiling the rockers on Bank 2
Thank you so much for this simple and east to follow guide on how to resolve those codes. All the Amazon links worked perfectly.
SO you changed two one on each side ?
Would you recommend using Hondabond High-Temp Silicone Liquid Gasket before installing the oil pressure switch?
Definitely no
All the items are listed on your links including the sensor?
We need a video on how to disable the the vcm
The videos exist. The most common method is to install an SVCM or the less expensive VCM Muzzler. SVCM is "self-aligning" while Muzzler requires manual alignment. There are RUclips videos addressing both products.
The computer will not activate VCM until a certain operating temperature threshold is surpassed. Both products modify the temperature signal to remain below the activation threshold.
I replaced the oil pressure switch P3400 code on bank 1, but can’t get the check engine light to go off and the code to clear. How many engine cycles does it take to clear the code?
did you ended up fixing the issue? how? i replaced my sensor and still check engine light
Mine didn't come with an o ring, and no one seems to have it in stock. What if I just leave the old o ring in there.
I left the old O-ring. It should be fine.
Question, Question
does the plug that goes to it, has 12 voltage while electric texting , my 08 pilot is running on 3 cylinders, I text it the oil pressure sensor plug, but I don't get no circuit, ...
Would this cause limp mode and the engine to knock and run horribly?
Limp Mode, maybe. But knocking? No, that’s something else. Check ur oil levels. Or could be something inside the timing belt system. Like a tensioner etc
What app are you using on your phone to see and clear the code?
That was the obd fusion app with a cheap universal obd dongle from Amazon.
Does this work for a 2015 honda accord exl? can someone respond i cant find a video
I was about to change my purge valve then I saw your video. I have 3400 AND 3497, so I will have to replace both? It's 2011 pilot if you don't mind showing locations:-). Thanks
Thanks I get to try this 😃
Can I get away with disconnecting this to de-activate vcm and connecting a dummy sensor to the electronic connection to avoid a CEL?
It won’t work. They sell aftermarket electrical harnesses that disable the VCM by tricking it that it’s under load so that ECO mode stays off.
@jimenezroberto55 Ok,thanks but at the same time leaving this disconnected has worked wonders for my Honda do you think it will harm engine if I leave this disconnected?
Followed your video. Did everything correct. Car ran good on the freeway, but when I exited, it stalled and and the same message came up. Any ideas
Sorry you're still having trouble with it. That Sensor is usually the culprit, but it could be several other things as well. Here's a pretty good write up that might help you diagnose the problem: www.backyardmechanic.org/how-to-fix-honda-engine-error-code-p3400/
I have changed the alternator and then after one week I got check engine and VTM-4 on the dashboard.
If I change the same part in this video, will my problem get solved ?😢😢😢
You need to get the codes read on the vehicle to see what is causing the check engine light and vtm-4 light to come on. You can buy a very inexpensive code reader on amazon.com.
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan thanks, I have them all
P3400
B1239
B1245
B1246
77-01 powerstrain system failure current vtm-4
@@mohammadal-motaaem3153 The P3400 code refers to a problem with the Cylinder Deactivation System, which is responsible for improving fuel efficiency by disabling specific cylinders during light-load driving conditions. The most common cause for this code is low oil level or dirty oil, or a bad sensor like I changed in this video.
The B1239 code is an Open or Short in the Drivers Mode Control Motor Circuit. And the B1245 code is a short in the rear air mix control motor circuit. HVAC control unit. Signal error.
The B1246 is problem in the rear air mix control motor circuit, linkage, door, or motor. HVAC control
unit.
You might want to make sure your battery and grounds are all good first since you're getting multiple possibly unrelated codes. Or, you may just have a few different problems. Since you said that you have just changed the alternator, I would double check that your battery is good. Maybe go get it tested/charged and make sure all the connections are good first. That's where I would start. Then, maybe try the oil pressure sensor next...
Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Thank you so much
do you have a video for p0842 at fluid pressure switch A for honda pilot 2011
Hi Eric,
Sorry, I don’t have a video for that.
Thx!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Where is bank 2 located
Bank 2 is toward the radiator
Does this work on 2010 honda accord crosstour?
I’m not sure, but if it’s the same engine, It should be the same process to change the sensor
I’ve done everything the same in this video, except my cel came back on less than 24 hours later..
will this work for a honda pilot 2015
Yes, it is the same engine
Will this sensor make the oil percentage go down on the display? I changed the oil and within 2 weeks the percentage went from 100% down to 40%
Hi Eric,
I don’t believe there is one specific oil life monitor type of sensor in this vehicle that determines the Oil Life Percentage.
It’s possible that the computer could be getting an incorrect reading if that sensor is dirty or bad, but you would probably get a check engine light as well.
The manual says:
“Based on the engine operating
conditions and accumulated engine
revolutions, the onboard computer in
your vehicle calculates the remaining
engine oil life and displays it as a
percentage.”
It might also be using the signal or pressure reading from the two upper oil pressure switches, but I am really not sure. Of course, I am assuming you reset the oil life percentage after you changed the oil?
Does the oil look dirty already after 2 weeks? How many miles have you driven it? The operating temperatures are also be a factor in the oil life percentage…
Thanks for writing back. Yes I reset oil life after. The check engine was on before I changed the oil and the vtm-4 is coming on sometimes as well. USPS just delivered the oil sensor. Im going to replace it tomorrow morning. What size socket do I need?
@@ericbezares177 it’s a 24mm socket
Update
Thanks for the video, Dan. I had the same 3400 code on my 2013 Honda Pilot, the oil life dropped to 70% after 300 miles & the VTM-4 light also came on same time. How many driving cycles or miles does the car have to go put out the MIL & VTM-4 lights please? Thanks
Thank you
I change oil pressure switch, 100 miles later the p3400 came back...theres anything else could be..
Usually the code is very specific, but bad oil, spark plugs, coils or injectors can cause it. Many other things as well can cause bank 1 to deactivate like the VTEC Solenoids. I would suggest you get it scanned. Also, I only put OEM sensors. Aftermarket tend to fail more than you want to and cause confusion. Good luck
you ended up fixing it?
Nice very helpful
Put the cover in the trash
It's nice that you list the torque specs, but you're too cheap and lazy to use a torque wrench.