The pivot in the stator plate was loose on my 1953 D1 125, so I carried a pair of pliers, some copper wire and a set of feeler gauges. The pivot would be tied down to one of screws by the copper wire and this would hold for about 50 miles. I find out that riding through puddles would cool the engine a bit and I could sometimes get 60 miles between resetting the spark gap on a rainy day. the obvious solution was to buy a new stator plate from the incredible Guivers in Sutton. But the paper round money just wouldn't reach for such exotic spares.
Nice one!
My D3 Swingarm was a right old bugger to get right!. 🤣 Oh the joys of owning a grumpy old classic!. 🤣 Nuff said. 🙂
The pivot in the stator plate was loose on my 1953 D1 125, so I carried a pair of pliers, some copper wire and a set of feeler gauges. The pivot would be tied down to one of screws by the copper wire and this would hold for about 50 miles. I find out that riding through puddles would cool the engine a bit and I could sometimes get 60 miles between resetting the spark gap on a rainy day. the obvious solution was to buy a new stator plate from the incredible Guivers in Sutton. But the paper round money just wouldn't reach for such exotic spares.
Thank you for this simple explanation how to set the points and timing.
Just what I was looking for in a video, easy explanation thanks 👍ps where can I get printable degree sheets?
I just searched on google found this one www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel
I didn't know you could adjust the ignition cam as I thought it was keyed? If so, how was that done?
The D14 and I assume D10 and B175 don't have a keyed cam. The earlier models D7 etc and a keyed cam.