Strobe timing Triumph Bonniville T120R
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Strobe timing my Bonnie the most important thing is to check whether the mark on your alternator corresponds to TDC (most likely) or for 38deg BTDC. some later cases with a small inspection plug ieT140 type are set for 38deg but it is always worth checking with the crankshaft notches accessed through the plug at base of barrels.
Boyer recommend around 5000 rpm to set timing. If you do not have a tacho continue reving until the mark stops moving (advancing) this is the max revs you will need to set timing.
11 years on and I still come back to these videos for help, THANKYOU lunmad.. absolute legend!
You’re the reason why I started to work on my dads triumph t140v. You had the first triumph videos on RUclips! Thank you! Rip Lunmad
Very well explained...you make it look simple...great teacher....thank you.. RIP... John....IRELAND.
You are the man.first time I’ve tried to do anything like this to my t140. You made the job so simple for me.
Invaluable help here for a guy doing this for the first time. Much appreciated.
This series of videos has been so helpful. My 1978 Bonneville 750 is coming along very nicely.
Thanks for the excellent videos.
I just bought a 78 Bonnie myself, haven't owned on since 1983, when I sold my 64 Tiger. Enjoyed your comment!
I don't have a Bonnie - i have a Trident but I'm still fascinated by Lunmads vids, they're so useful. It's like hanging around his garage :-)
Just fitted a thorspark to a failed magneto but I couldnt remember where to make the timing marks. All comes back to me now, many thanks 👍
Thanks for showing this, just got my T140, haven't worked on one for forty years, good to remember how to get this right, easy! Thanks!
I have a 71 trophy 500, read after comment below, I removed the distributor plate to check the timing advance unit and found that the point cam had been working loose from the plate that it is stamp to. I tack welded it back in place and now it has lot of adjustment and the bike runs perfectly. I hope this help the people out there that have been pulling their hair out like I was.
You will be missed brother
Again - thanks!! I was trying to time my '70 TR6R using the TDC mark. No wonder I was having problems.
Just found your channel. Hope your still wrenching on these ole bikes
thanks for all the no nonsense information and your previous advice I have now finished the tr6 except for fine tuning of ignition I have converted it to twin carb spec goes like a rocket low speed still a it rough though probably due to right hand carb seizing up during the summer. Have also replaced valves and guides on the t100ss after owning it for 42yers Ray fisher says they are most worn ones he has ever seen no wear of bores though due to oil in them good fun and happy days thanks. J w orchard
Hi John :-) thank you and you are welcome. 40 odd years out of a set of valve guides! There are people who say these things are unreliable :-O Give em a little tlc and they will give years of good service.
John have you still got the tr6?
Thanks Lunmad for your quick reply and your tip.I didn't think It was worth to run this old bike with the 98 oct. but I will try. I set the timing at the basic 38° before tdc and then I set It down a bit till the engine stop pinking when running up Hill at low load.
danbonnielux
Cheers @thirteendreams :-)
you've done a grand job on your TR7 and summers nearly here!!
@62g12cs
Thanks Rick you are doing a caulker of a job on your 3HW
best of luck for the show, will you be riding it there?
I think any bike ridden to a show should be rated x10 above the ever so common trailer queens.
John
Thanx again lunmad for a great video! This will help finalizing my Pazon ignition settings on my Bonnie!
Saved me a lot of hassle, great advice
Using the tool is also a good way to check for fairly common alternator rotor shift. When the crankshaft is held in place the rotor should not be out of time and if it is, replace it!
Interesting video, great style and easy to understand, as a new 5T owner I'm learning a lot!
Just sorting my TR6, this is really helpful. Thanks
Always a good source of information. Never met the man, but he will be missed.
@62g12cs .Thanks Lunmad for this great video.That confirm I was doing the right way when setting up the ignition timing on my 1970 T 120 R(with Boyer Bransden micro digital).My question is:As I run with 95 unleaded gas,should I set down the ignition timing from 38° to 35° or even less.??
Hi @67giacomo :-)
I'm glad you're getting sorted,
I already have my stage crew! guys like you, getting their bikes fired up and running :-) Great stuff !!
Great just what i wanted better to see than read and it was simple to set up
Hope you do other things to the bike.
Hi @TheReverb1 :-)
the strobe light flashes at the same time the sparkplug sparks,
when it is shined onto the spinning flywheel, the flywheel appears to be stationary
making the timing line show up, and adjusted to suit the pointer on the case.
@gerwoodholland
Hi gerwood
you might get a little oil but should not get a face full, you could drain the oil from the primary case and refill after you have strobed it.
There are three small holes in the crankcase that allow excess oil to drain back into engine it sounds like these may be blocked you should remove the primary case and check they are clear with a piece of wire.
Hi @SPEIRMOR thanks :-)
there are a few types of strobe, mine connects between the spark plug and cap,
some clip around the HT lead with an induction loop.
As the strobe senses the HT voltage the lamp will light up, and does so every time the spark-plug sparks.
The battery is to power the light the reason for using a separate battery and not the one on the bike Is in case the charging current upsets the "mechanics" of the strobe and makes it flash wrong.
thanks again
Thank you :-) when the pointer shows through the small hole it should be 38 deg btdc, you will also find the rotor on yours has different marks to mine.
Thanks,that cleared a few things up.You are going to need a stage crew soon.
Thanks Lunmad for all the vids, worth a million dollars to an ameture like me!
Hi Martin :-)
it's a pleasure to help out.
Thank you.
@srcheney
Hi scrheney :-)
the secret is, I use the side stand, this way both wheels are on the floor so the tyres can absorb most of the vibes.
I use a block under the stand that has the bike almost vertical, then I put a scissor jack under the opposite footrest.
Then as a safety thing, I clamp a set of vice-grips around the foot rest to stop the jack slipping, and screw a pipe-clip over the stand (end) to the block to make that secure.
Most of the work I do is done this way including wheels.
Glad you got it sorted yo momma :-)
your comment certainly will give people running points another thing to look for if they are having similar problems,
thank you.
Well done sir, very helpful.
Hi James :-) thank you, glad to help.
Very much appreciate you doing this . Very well explained..... please more.
Thank you for posting this video, you made things easy to understand.
Lummad. Simply great man! I'e got a 66 TR6R but engine number makes it out to be a 64. Will the crank actually have 2 slots for the timing (TDC and 38* BTDC) if I use the timing tool (need to order one)? I've heard some early engines only have 1 slot.
Also, what can you do if you've got the older pre-timing hole primary cover?
Terrific video....as usual. Thanks for your help.
'68 650 Trophy
Thanks retrodk :-) I'm not to familiar with the 500 done a few topends but in the main they are pretty similar.
Hi Lunmad, good work. As already said, it's better to watch and learn than to read a manual. My 74 Bonnie has a late primary cover with the small timing hole in it. The pointer looks to be in a different position to the original 1 like yours. Will this give me problems when I strobe mine?
Sound videos, Question; have you ever used an oil additive in the gear box to top up the ep90? if you did /do what's the verdict please.
Fascinating video, thanks.
...cool
but I really dont understand what exactly the light does
and this works for a new magneto too?
thanks
That'll do. Indeed!
Thanks fella.
Very helpfull topics Lunmad!! thank you!
but this is wired, I don' t have any notches on my crankshaft on my 1979 triumph TR7RV. I bought the tool, just like yours, and tried to find this TDC notch..... but nothing! like the crakshaft was a full circle one!.....
Hi maxime :-)
Strange, the notch/s can be hard to find depending on the depth.
A way to get close to where it should be and find the TDC notch is to remove either the alternator nut or the timing pinion nut
then look inside to see the key-way, this when pointing straight up is TDC, then scrape around in the timing hole and you should find the notch. You may find the notch is cut slightly to the primary side.
If you have a timing disc fit to crank and turn engine backwards to 30 deg BTDC and set static timing.
You could make a simple timing disc from a CD marked with a protractor.
Hope this helps.
Hello Lunmad!! thanks for your reply! well, listen, I tried that yesterday night during a couple of hours.... no notches.... so I setted everything with the disc.
First setting to 19° with red dots matching clockwise (as mentionned in Pazon notice)... nothing, no start, absolutely nothing.
Second setting to 38°, dots matching (not mentionned in Pazon, but similar to Boyer! I tried!...).... nothing at all....
Third setting to 38°, no matching dots with clockwise, but rotor dots inclinated to 2 o' clock and 8 o' clock; perfect start, rev perfect, I strobed it at 3000/ 4000 and a weird thing happened: the 38° mark on the stator rotor rans down 38° (usually go over 38 when you rev isn' t it?). except from that, runs perfect. I suspect an anomaly in the trigger setting.
Hi Lunmad! When I do my timing the bike vibrates so much I have to hold it fast to stop it dancing across the floor on the centre stand. Your bike is as solid as a rock at 4500 rpm, Whats your secret?
@notwocdivad
Hi notwocdivad :-)
Mr Triumph eh! sounds great! I think Mr Turner has that title though.
As problems arise or not! I will do the vids, to tell the truth my Bonnie has never been so pampered.
I wonder if the telly would pay us ;-) that would be great,
especially if they give us a bike to do, It would be down to the crank by now :-D
thanks for the thumbs-up.
@gerwoodholland
The crank vents into the primary side, gases and oil vapour. The gases should leave the motor by the vent pipe and the oil transferred back into the crankcase through them three small holes and then scavenged back to the oil tank.
There should be only a small amount of oil in the primary side maybe half a cup if that, much more than this will give you clutch problems and oil leaks.
hi lunmad do you advice this method on bikes with magnetoes ?
Hi Yo momma :-) I'm not to familiar with the 500 but in the main they are pretty similar. The camshaft may have a missing location dowel used for getting the AAU in the correct position.
I use the bikes tach but you can tell when the correct rpm is reached as the line on the rotor stops moving (advancing)
If the clip on tach is on the HT lead the polarity does not matter.
Hi lunmad, great videos - thanks once again.
I've tried to strobe my T140E (with a small inspection plug) but get a face full of oil spray when the plug is out. Should this happen? If yes, how do I strobe a T140E? Thanks.
Thank you :-) they are similar systems so this should apply.
Are you using the bike's tach or electronic clip-on? If a clip-on, is the pos. ground an issue?
Great videos! Thanks for posting! Question.'what is the best way to time a bike without the inspection plug? I own a 1960 Trophy and it doesn't have one.
Thanks Lunmad! Been waiting for this.
@lunmad Thanks for the reply. This face full of oil is just that - a real continuous blast. So much that it's impossible to look in the inspection hole. It's accompanied by a hissing sound which I assume to be the high pressure source of the oil. Could this be some sort of leakage from the crank/big end?
I have a t120 r.since I got it it has been wet sumping I replaced the oil pump correctly. But bugger me it still wet sumps. Can anyone give me some info I might be missing. I used a genuine Morgo pump and all new gaskets . Any help would be apreciated
grand stuff Lunmad.
Great videos!
@egpg2000
Hi Eddy "do I shake?" I'll have to have a look :-D
Thank you for the thanks, great comments like yours and others make uploading these vids more of a pleasure for me.
Luke and I sound so similar, the reward for showing someone "how to do something"
is to see them do it! their success, is your success! if you get my drift.
hi lunmad have been watching your vid for a year now can i say they are brilliant
i have a 69 bonnie i have set up the carbs as in vid it run ok for a while i stop it
then can't get it to start again. when i check plugs one has stoped working i think its burnt out because when i put in new plug in it runs. it back fires somtimes on kickstart ,my ankle hurts like hell. any ideas .ferritdave
@lunmad
just see
thanks for your time
hi,i have a 1967 t100t daytona & going to fit the same ignition system,is the procedure the same ie finding 38 deg btdc to fit the magnetic roller & stator plate etc,it hasnt got the inspection plate on the primary chaincase side so can i just use the triumph tdc tool
Hi Lunmad :) do you know if, i can set the timing while the engine is running? If i got one person on each side? Thank you for the nice vids.
+Thomas Hansen
Hi Thomas :-) thank you.
in short yes, after you have set the timing static, you can only strobe with the engine running.
Two people can do the job though coordination can be a problem.
Keep the bike on its tyres rather than on its stand then you will not have to chase it down the path
as the suspension absorbs most of the vibes.
@rajabalhi my pleasure :-)
@trumpnut Cheers trump nut :-)
I do have a tendency to mumble, hopefully what one sees transcends the language barrier.
I have thought of narrating the vids but that will be another project! and I need a mic,
I will try shouting next time ;-D
Hello Sir...nice video!!! I have a rickman t140v with nourish 8 valve......and a big problem....when i rev over 3500 rpm,the bike misfires(or short complete ignition fail) and the headlight is going dark....also the travel direction indicator is going very fast at this rpm......when i do this often,the fuse blows(25 amp). my bike have 2 lucas 6 volt coils and an electronic ignition with an lucas amplifier. i also noticed that the left cylinder blows not so strong at the exhaust than the right cylinder at idle......but when driving its okay....do you have any ideas what could be damaged? maybe the left ignition coil??? Carging power is also okay.....spark plugs are new...thx
Hi oe6 it sounds like you have a couple of problems. You should check out the charging side and look for a short circuit on the lights.
The not so strong side at tick over is most likely carburetor air screws and the 3500 rpm misfire could be a weak mixture on the needle jets try lifting the needles to bottom notch.
Thx for your answer...i fixed the problem....one phase from my 3 phase alternator was damaged.....and also a bad contact in my ignition switch was the problem...... i replaced the alternator and now i have strong light,strong spark and a strong sound out of my ducati megaphones *LoL
Hello Sir! Do you have any advise on setting the timing on a 500 that doesn't have the access panel in the cover (so there's no handy pointer). I'm guessing just figure out TDC and BTDC manually?? Thanks for all of the videos!
Hi dull_boy :-) thank you.
I've not had much to do with the 500 saying that setting timing is the same procedure on most engines.
Finding TDC is easy with a stick or dial gauge down the plug hole, the BTDC can be done down the plug hole if you know the measurement.
A degree wheel can be made from a CD using a protractor, and as in this vid removing the chain case and running is no problem,
I'm sure the same will apply with the 500 but you will need to check.
With a mark on the rotor and stator you can use a strobe once the initial static timing is set.
Hope this helps.
thank you I was able to time her now on to the wet sump issues!
Hi db :-)
glad you got that sorted, contrary to popular belief Triumph wet sumping is a rarity, being fitted with a plunger pump but it can happen.
slack pump, damaged gasket would be usual causes. There could be dirt under the check valve balls or weak springs.
Balls and seats should be cleaned and the balls can be re-seated giving them a light tap with a soft drift. :-D
Hey Lunmad, thanks for the advice. I removed the oil pump and found a tiny piece of metal that was probably interfering. All good now!! on to the next issue :)
Hi dull :-)
anytime, yup bits of metal should not be in there, glad to of helped.
Good effort!
Thank you :-) more to come
Hi Lunmad Ican see you changing your name to Mr Triumph, (Not "Bonnie" anyway)
I bet people hope you break bits of the bike so they can watch you fix it again.Yorkshire tv should hire you for a Mark Evans type show Cheers.
@flettie22
Hi flettie :-)
I used to have a T150 c/w ray guns it really howled when you got it wound up, but alas it went to the wayside.
I must admit though my Bonnie is a lot less hassle to keep tip top though they are basicly the same.
You are welcome in my shed any time! mmmm maybe some Trident vids ;-)
@srcheney thank you :-)
Thank you H20RIDER :-)
Trophy...nice!
@estoniaman thank you :-)
Hi @mackdawg100 :-)
of all my vids this one took the longest for some reason??
thank you
Hi Peter :-) anytime glad to of helped.
Thank you :-)
@spartan3956
Hi spartan :-)
I have a few vids up now,
glad this one helped you out :-)
Take a look at my index vid, links to most of them are on there
Good vid thanks, must be a Boro boy with that accent!
Hi Mudfish :-)
Thanks, spot on with the accent, a smoggy I be, not far from the Boro.
Mudfish deffo Boro lad !
lol my hands shake too :)
Timing light bulb replacement
Great video but your not close enough to the mic when speaking.
You are missed mate
Thank you :-)
Thank you :-)