I just bought this jointer at a yard sale and I can't thank you enough for these videos on this jointer. I picked it and a belt/disc sander for $80. Definitely a steal and I'm excited to get them up and running!
Really good video. I bought one of these about a year ago for $25.00 from a gentleman who had an under powered motor with it. I am fixing it up and I was a little confused about setting the blades as the manual was unclear. I needed a small jointer and this fit the bill. Great video and I will look at your vid on sharpening the blades. Thanks again.
Thanks, I inherited the same jointer and decided to fit it to my Shopsmith as the accompanying motor was not in good shape. It's been sitting in a damp garage for 15 years so it was quite rusty. So today I decided to get all the rust off and I will be sharpening the knifes as they are not in good shape. Seeing this video will help to ajust the knifes the right way the first time as I have never done this before. Thanks again, great video.
Alexandre, good luck with your project! It's a great little jointer. I have a video up on sharpening the blades that might be useful as well. Take a peek if you like. Take care, G.
Very helpful video. Thank you. I recently bought a Rockwell 37-220 6" jointer on CL for 100 bucks. It's in great shape, too. I just need to sharpen the existing knives and/or buy new ones - I think I'll do both. Anyhow, your video will help me set the blades in correctly and more importantly have them leveled to the out feed table. Thanks, again!
John Luna No problem John! I'm glad you liked it and found it useful. Great deal you got on your 6"!!! I do have a video posted on sharpening the knives off-hand. You might check it out. Granted it's for 4" blades so they're a bit easier to handle, but you might be able to clean up yours using my methods. Good luck with yours! G. ruclips.net/video/2rGWTwoA1G8/видео.html
I recently picked up a 1950's Beaver Tools 6" jointer that the exact same design as your jointer, so this is perfect! I'm fixing it up and after sharping the original blades (although getting new ones, on order) I want to still get it running so will follow our instructions. I probably won't keep this old machine forever, but it is nice to get old iron up and running!
I resharpened mine. I have a video posted that shows the process if you want to try it out. ruclips.net/video/2rGWTwoA1G8/видео.html I did find a listing for knives that claims to fit this jointer- though I can't confirm. Hope both help. Good luck, G. www.amazon.com/19-HSS-Planer-Blades-Walker-Turner/dp/B002O75HTG
A old video on the process, but remains one of the best explanations. I too have an old 1960s Rockwell 4" jointer I inherited from my dad a couple years back. The only improvement on the process was a magnetic knife aligner I got for it. Do yourself a huge favor and get a set of thin wrenches too! It is a tight fit getting at those blade bolts. ;) I'm in the middle of building a new cabinet/stand for it and plan to cleanup the jointer, possibly even give it a new paint job.
Wow G, that was really a big difference with your shavings. Really uniform in width and length. Your setting technique was also interesting and pretty quick for such good results, and obviously effective!! Very appreciative of the work you did on this project...really will help a lot of folks out there. I know I learned a few things! Now the work begins, eh? But now with good sharp tools, it always makes the job easier I think. As always, Thanks for sharing! PJ
A bid difference for sure! I used info from the manual, and injected what they did not cover. Yeah, I'm gearing up for the work- I've been doing the work before the work..lol Sharp is always better for sure. Thanks again, G.
Reading my owners manual your blade setup is almost identical to my that of my 50's vintage 4 3/8" Craftsman jointer. They would have you tap the knifes down with a piece of hardwood, and they do call out a 1/16" projection for the left hand side of the blades for the rabbet cut alignment. I just finished replacing the cutter head bearings and it's running like a new machine now.
That's interesting Hank. My manual didn't have a call out projection, or even mention it. I guess I did good since I ended up with about a 1/16" by guessing. I changed my bearings as well and it made a huge difference. Sounds like we both have good running machines now! Thanks, G.
Cheers. One question; what size of wrench did you use to loosen the blades? the area where the blades are located is very narrow for a normal wrench ;-)
I set the blades a couple of days ago. I took quite a few tries to get them just right. I noticed the blade would sometimes lift a little as I tightened the bolts. Another problem is that the blade would sometimes seesaw when I pushed down on one side to set the blade. I've ordered some strong magnets to make a magnetic jig, I think it might make things easier. A word of warning is that the bolts seem to be a soft metal and not hardened. I learned to slowly, constantly adjust the wrench, pushing it into the bolt head. If you don't you risk stripping the bolt head, which could cause a big problem in trying to get it off. If a bolt head looks like its losing its shape, replace it. Even at the cost of $8 a bolt it's worth avoiding the aggravation.
That's cool. It's tricky to get them just right like you said. I think making a jig with magnets will help things along. If you make two and link them together, you can probably hold down on it while you tighten up the bolts. That might help with the slight lifting you mentioned.You're also correct about the bolts being soft. Mine had one mostly rounded off when I got it. I think the previous owner was trying to turn the bolt CC, instead of CW to remove the bar. That may be why my blades were so shot...lol. Do you have a source for bolts? I would like to get one to replace the marginal one on my machine. Thanks, G.
Thanks Vince. Glad it was helpful. It should be a 5/16" wrench. It needs to be pretty thin to fit in the gap. I actually used an 8mm garbage wrench and ground it thinner to fit the slot. It was a little loose of a fit, but worked. 5/16" would be better though. Hope this helps, G.
Great video, I'll be referring to it soon. I'm just about done refurbishing a 37-290 I just bought. You're right, solid as a rock. I know they occasionally sell the retracting casters on ebay but they're expensive. I'm thinking about putting threaded casters through the center hole on the feet which is 3/8. The legs look like they'll handle it. Have any luck getting an original belt? I can't seem to find the right size that doesn't have the teeth on them (called a utility belt).
Thanks Dragon! Good luck with yours- I'm loving mine and they are heavy and solid for such a little machine. On the casters, check out this guys videos on his channel for other caster ideas. I just saw it the other day and he's come up with a brilliant retractable system on a variety of tools. I would feel better with something like it over just using locking casters. This machine is so top heavy I would consider something like he's done. If I ever put mine on casters, his idea will be my choice. Retractable Casters for Power Tools For the belt on mine, I'm using a Fenner PowerTwist belt. I run them on most of my tools and love them. But, if you want to run a standard V-belt, try to look for power transmission suppliers. There may be one in your area They would probably be your best bet to find the proper machine belt- without the teeth. Good luck, G.
I'm watching your series of videos on the Rockwell 4" jointer. I have the same jointer, like you say, the jointer is a tank. I am considering trading up to a 6" jointer with a longer blade so that I can joint longer boards, but I really don't know the limits of my little jointer. You have had over a year using your jointer, how long of a board can you straighten? I sometimes need to joint the edge of an 8' board, but this is rare.
Ed Waggoner Sr. Ed, probably about 6' is the longest boards I've ran through it and didn't have any problems. You might consider setting up and out-feed roller to receive long boards. I wouldn't mind having a 6" so I could run wider boards, but other than that, the 4 works out well for me. Hope this helps, G.
***** Thanks for the prompt answer. A fellow craftsman suggested a ratio of 2:1 which is close to your experience. Some think that all boards destined for furniture should be ripped to 4" and glued back together to relieve internal stress, this sounds plausible.
I'm not sure Bain. I do know some have adjusting screws so you can adjust the knives. There may be some that are more like this one- but again, I'm not sure. G.
I have one just like this one I just watched, blades need sharpening which I will do. PROBLEM ..one of the bearings seems to be a bit dry, and of course it's pressed on. Is there a bearing replacement available and a guestimate of what it would cost for the repair. If you have an address I would appreciate it. thanks for the tutiorial, been looking for this for awhile. . I've had this one at least 20 yrs and no manuel. A yard sale find... Thanks
That's cool Wayne. If yours is a 37-290 model, these are the exact bearings I used on mine- and where I purchased them from. www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Delta-Rockwell-Milwaukee-4-Jointer-Cutter-Head-Bearings-Set-of-2-87502-/221842945900?hash=item33a6deb76c:g:5IYAAOSwjRpZQwMY I used a Harbor Freight bearing separator to remove and install them. You can find 20% off coupons online. www.harborfreight.com/Bearing-Separator-and-Puller-Set-62593.html This video shows the tool, and it's use. You'll have to jump around the video some to see the whole process. It's not that hard to change them out. ruclips.net/video/z24-2UXAszk/видео.html Here's a link to the manual! Hope this helps, G. www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjPsPG6i9vWAhUL3GMKHQcLDe8QFggoMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fvintagemachinery.org%2Fpubs%2F698%2F2201.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2kRcnMNMTXpUnECS7Ye4F-
I have a jointer just like this has been sitting in the garage for about a year i guess its time to try to get it going. So I greatly appreciate your videos ! I thought I would have to buy new blades but with your video i was able today to get two of them sharpened . Will probably finish it up tomorrow and hopefully get it put back together. I was wondering if you could tell me where you found your model number. Mine has a tag that tells the serial number that tag is on the back . There is also a tag on the front that says Homecraft Delta . But i dont see where the model number is. Thanks.
No problem Jeff! Glad the videos were useful. My plates are exactly as you describe- none with a model number. I looked at pictures on the web and determined mine to be a 37-290 Deluxe. Why they didn't put the model on them is beyond me. Hope this helps. Good luck with the rest of your build! G.
Loosen up the gib screws, saturate everything with a penetrating oil and let it sit for a long time. Don't force anything. Give it time, no matter how much. You will get there. Good luck, G.
James Rogers Jim, this link claims to fit the 37-290. Hope this helps, G. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O75HTG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/186-8376621-7798201?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1NNF37PZBDNKFT951NS4&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_i=B00004RK6L
What kind of wrench are you using to tighten those bolts? I have a Rockwell 6 inch jointer (likely manufactured in the 1970s). The bolts are 5/16 inch but I cannot find a thin enough wrench to get down in there. All the wrenches I can find in 5/16 are 5mm thick, but I have determined that I need one 4.5mm or thinner. Any help is appreciated!
Darron, I had the same problem with mine. I used my bench grinder to grind an old wrench thinner so I could get it down in there. Not glamorous, but it worked. Hope this helps, G.
Glad to know I'm not alone. Ultimately, after purchasing 2 separate wrenches on Amazon and failing, I got a small Craftman set for $20 that included a thinner wrench.
I have he exact machine! My neighbor passed away and his wife gave it to me! Can you tell me what blades to use, and also, mine seems to the turning to slow! It only has a 3 inch pulley on the motor! Is that the problem?
William, look though the comments as I know I've linked to some knives that should work. Amazon I believe. If the cutter-head pulley size is correct, I think (don't quote me) the motor pulley should be 6 or 6.5 as I recall. Try to find the manual online to be sure. Good luck, G.
I have a problem with my 2801 Re beaver jointer . I would be so grateful if you could help? Just bought it 2 days agoand got ripped off as there's something wrong with the motor 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I wish you showed how that table adjusts up and down!! Those little handles under each side don't move the table. I gave them a few shots of Wd40, to no avail. What am I doing wrong???
Turning the cranks it what makes the tables go up and down. On the back, there should be some small screws- loosen them up then try again. To me, it sounds like yours is seized in some way. Get a penetrating oil - not WD. Let it soak and try again. Don't force anything. Take your time. Hope this helps, G.
Here you go Terry! G. Manual: www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj10-C52Z3WAhUDslQKHXhfBU0QFggoMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fvintagemachinery.org%2Fpubs%2F698%2F2201.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFVRxRLtbWJwVMX6QZ5ztnQ2RiGgQ I believe these blades will work: www.amazon.com/19-HSS-Planer-Blades-Walker-Turner/dp/B002O75HTG
I know I've posted a link in the comments to Amazon for them before. I have many videos related to this jointer so I don't know which contained it. I would search around Amazon, or through the comments on my videos. Not much help, but good luck nonetheless. Take care, G.
Now this makes sense, you set your cutter edge at "0" to the table out feed. Why do I keep seeing people telling you to put blade edge higher than the table out feed and call it "0". As I understand it, the blades should clear the cutter block by the manufactures setting, my case 0.7/0.8mm, but the blade edge should be at "0" with the table out feed. The table out feed edge height is adjustable like yours. Then you adjust and calibrate the table in feed to match giving a true total table feed as "0". Your version makes sense, maybe we are both wrong but I go with this version.
I wen't by the original instructions for this jointer, but setting them to same height as the out feed makes sense to me. If the out feed is too high, the work will hit the table. I see if it's too low, once the material passes over the cutter- the downward pressure on the work will cause it to tilt and gouge the work. This way works for me so that's the way I roll. Good luck, G.
Hi ghostses. Thanx for putting this info on video, Awesome !! I got this jointer this week from a guy who inherited it from his dad and has no use for it (Stood in his garage for 20 years, after dad). The whole machine was rusted beyond belief ... I am asking everyone watching this if there is a link to this machines owners / users manual that I can download it ? As far as mine goes, some parts of the fence seem missing but the restoration process is 50% complete. I had to remove the old paint, replace some bolts and nuts and repaint is planned for the coming week. Also I am having the blade mechanism's bearings and the motor bearings replaced, so that should be done within next week. Cant wait for final assembly. So I am watching your vids with eagle eyes this week :D - Update: I found the manuals on Vintage Machinery . com
I was just getting ready to send you to Vintage Machinery to locate the manual but then saw your update. That's Keith Ruckers website. He has a machinery channel on RUclips. Ebay will probably be your best bet for finding anything your missing. Good luck with the rest of your project. G.
Another very well done instructional video! Nice jointer, now that you have brought it back to life! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mac. I'm quite pleased with it. All I have left to do is make a chute for it to hook up to my dust collector. G.
Thanks for a great video. I thought I knew what I was doing, but your way of doing it makes way more sense and will result in greater accuracy.
Thanks Howard! I really don't know if this is the best way, but it's my way and works great for me. Good luck and take care, G.
Thanks for the videos on this old jointer! I picked up the same one and you helped me to sharpen and reinstall the knives.
Good deal Ethan! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
Very clear, helpful instructions. I just replaced the knives in my old Jet JSL-6J 6 in. Jointer. Working great now. Thanks!
Thanks Fred! I'm glad it was useful. Good luck, G.
I just bought this jointer at a yard sale and I can't thank you enough for these videos on this jointer. I picked it and a belt/disc sander for $80. Definitely a steal and I'm excited to get them up and running!
Glad the videos may be helpful. Yeah, you stole them no doubt! Good luck, G.
I used your method replacing the knifes on my Rockwell jointer, it worked well and took very little time to do. Thanks for your video.
Good deal David! Glad it was helpful in getting yours installed and adjusted. Take care, G.
Really good video. I bought one of these about a year ago for $25.00 from a gentleman who had an under powered motor with it. I am fixing it up and I was a little confused about setting the blades as the manual was unclear. I needed a small jointer and this fit the bill. Great video and I will look at your vid on sharpening the blades. Thanks again.
You stole that jointer Joe! That was a great buy. For as little as they are, they're built like a tank. Glad the video will help. Good luck, G.
Thanks, I inherited the same jointer and decided to fit it to my Shopsmith as the accompanying motor was not in good shape. It's been sitting in a damp garage for 15 years so it was quite rusty. So today I decided to get all the rust off and I will be sharpening the knifes as they are not in good shape. Seeing this video will help to ajust the knifes the right way the first time as I have never done this before. Thanks again, great video.
Alexandre, good luck with your project! It's a great little jointer. I have a video up on sharpening the blades that might be useful as well. Take a peek if you like. Take care, G.
Very helpful video. Thank you. I recently bought a Rockwell 37-220 6" jointer on CL for 100 bucks. It's in great shape, too. I just need to sharpen the existing knives and/or buy new ones - I think I'll do both. Anyhow, your video will help me set the blades in correctly and more importantly have them leveled to the out feed table. Thanks, again!
John Luna No problem John! I'm glad you liked it and found it useful. Great deal you got on your 6"!!! I do have a video posted on sharpening the knives off-hand. You might check it out. Granted it's for 4" blades so they're a bit easier to handle, but you might be able to clean up yours using my methods. Good luck with yours! G.
ruclips.net/video/2rGWTwoA1G8/видео.html
I recently picked up a 1950's Beaver Tools 6" jointer that the exact same design as your jointer, so this is perfect! I'm fixing it up and after sharping the original blades (although getting new ones, on order) I want to still get it running so will follow our instructions.
I probably won't keep this old machine forever, but it is nice to get old iron up and running!
That's cool! Good luck with your project! Take care, G.
This is a great video. I feel like I can tackle this now, when I had no clue before. Thanks!!
Thanks Todd. Glad it we helpful. Good luck, G.
Thanks for this excellent video. I have been putting off changing the knives on my 37-130, and now I'm ready to proceed.
Glad it was helpful John! It's not that hard- just take your time. Good luck, G.
@@ghostses It was a snap. As you say, just take your time. Thanks, again.
@@Soquelite No problem John! Glad it wen't well. G.
Thanks or making this video. My dad left me one of these jointers and your video helped me tune it up and get it going again!
No problem Richard! Glad it helped you get yours going again! Take care, G.
ghostses where do you buy these jointer knives? I have this same model and am wondering what knives to purchase to replace the old beaten up ones.
I resharpened mine. I have a video posted that shows the process if you want to try it out.
ruclips.net/video/2rGWTwoA1G8/видео.html
I did find a listing for knives that claims to fit this jointer- though I can't confirm. Hope both help. Good luck, G.
www.amazon.com/19-HSS-Planer-Blades-Walker-Turner/dp/B002O75HTG
You're my go to guy for advice. always in depth explanations. Bought the HF saw blade sharpener after watching your video. Happy New Year!
LOL! Thanks Thomas! Hope the sharpener is serving you well. Take care, G.
Thomas Tieffenbacher/DocSavage45
Fantastic video. Thank you for explaining this in detail!
Thanks Daniel! Glad you found it useful. Take care, G.
A old video on the process, but remains one of the best explanations. I too have an old 1960s Rockwell 4" jointer I inherited from my dad a couple years back. The only improvement on the process was a magnetic knife aligner I got for it. Do yourself a huge favor and get a set of thin wrenches too! It is a tight fit getting at those blade bolts. ;)
I'm in the middle of building a new cabinet/stand for it and plan to cleanup the jointer, possibly even give it a new paint job.
Thanks! Yeah, a super thin wrench is needed- no doubt. I ground one down to fit but can't remember the size. Good luck with your project, G.
Thanks for this great video. I feel more confident doing it that way.
Thanks Alain! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
Wow G, that was really a big difference with your shavings. Really uniform in width and length. Your setting technique was also interesting and pretty quick for such good results, and obviously effective!! Very appreciative of the work you did on this project...really will help a lot of folks out there. I know I learned a few things! Now the work begins, eh? But now with good sharp tools, it always makes the job easier I think. As always, Thanks for sharing! PJ
A bid difference for sure! I used info from the manual, and injected what they did not cover. Yeah, I'm gearing up for the work- I've been doing the work before the work..lol Sharp is always better for sure. Thanks again, G.
Reading my owners manual your blade setup is almost identical to my that of my 50's vintage 4 3/8" Craftsman jointer. They would have you tap the knifes down with a piece of hardwood, and they do call out a 1/16" projection for the left hand side of the blades for the rabbet cut alignment. I just finished replacing the cutter head bearings and it's running like a new machine now.
That's interesting Hank. My manual didn't have a call out projection, or even mention it. I guess I did good since I ended up with about a 1/16" by guessing. I changed my bearings as well and it made a huge difference. Sounds like we both have good running machines now! Thanks, G.
Thanks for posting this video, super helpful!
No problem! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
Thanks for this video! I recently bought an old planer just like yours and have been wondering how to change the blades. Very helpful1
Glad it was helpful. Good luck and take care, G.
Thanks for the help, I really needed this.
No problem Tom! Glad it was useful. Good luck, G.
Excellent tutorial thank you.
No problem Joe! Take care, G.
Excellent video....this was great help. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
Cheers. One question; what size of wrench did you use to loosen the blades? the area where the blades are located is very narrow for a normal wrench ;-)
@@faisalsayeed3883 I don't recall the exact size, but I had to grind it down to fit in the slot. Hope this helps, G.
Good going you have a nice tool for the money.
Thanks G
I agree Roland. It works great now. Thanks, G.
Very useful information. I wasn't sure how I was going to register the knives for rabbeting. Off to the basement to put this into practice!
Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful. Good luck getting yours dialed in. Take care, G.
A big help, thank you
Glad it was helpful Stephen. Take care, G.
Nice video and thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Take care, G.
Nice work man. She runs like a top now.
Thanks! That she does... G.
Great vid. Thanks!
Thanks Mike! Take care, G.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful Matt. Take care, G.
really good video. thanks!!!!
Thanks Hugo! Take care, G.
I set the blades a couple of days ago. I took quite a few tries to get them just right. I noticed the blade would sometimes lift a little as I tightened the bolts. Another problem is that the blade would sometimes seesaw when I pushed down on one side to set the blade. I've ordered some strong magnets to make a magnetic jig, I think it might make things easier. A word of warning is that the bolts seem to be a soft metal and not hardened. I learned to slowly, constantly adjust the wrench, pushing it into the bolt head. If you don't you risk stripping the bolt head, which could cause a big problem in trying to get it off. If a bolt head looks like its losing its shape, replace it. Even at the cost of $8 a bolt it's worth avoiding the aggravation.
That's cool. It's tricky to get them just right like you said. I think making a jig with magnets will help things along. If you make two and link them together, you can probably hold down on it while you tighten up the bolts. That might help with the slight lifting you mentioned.You're also correct about the bolts being soft. Mine had one mostly rounded off when I got it. I think the previous owner was trying to turn the bolt CC, instead of CW to remove the bar. That may be why my blades were so shot...lol. Do you have a source for bolts? I would like to get one to replace the marginal one on my machine. Thanks, G.
Hi I redid my jointer a couple of years ago and replaced the bolts, I got them from a site called Renovo I think.
@@ghostses
Thanks for the tip! Take care, G.
very well explained
Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful. Good luck, G.
THANKS GREAT VID . VERY USEFUL . IN WONDERING WHAT WRENCH SIZE ARE THE BOLTS IN THE LOCKING BAR
Thanks Vince. Glad it was helpful. It should be a 5/16" wrench. It needs to be pretty thin to fit in the gap. I actually used an 8mm garbage wrench and ground it thinner to fit the slot. It was a little loose of a fit, but worked. 5/16" would be better though. Hope this helps, G.
Thanks bro helped big time 👍👊
Thanks Bert! Glad it was helpful. Good luck, G.
Sweet little jointer you got there
Thanks JD! Take care, G.
Thanks great job
+irosha ki
Thanks! Good luck, G.
Good stuff mate
Thanks, G.
Great video, I'll be referring to it soon. I'm just about done refurbishing a 37-290 I just bought. You're right, solid as a rock. I know they occasionally sell the retracting casters on ebay but they're expensive. I'm thinking about putting threaded casters through the center hole on the feet which is 3/8. The legs look like they'll handle it. Have any luck getting an original belt? I can't seem to find the right size that doesn't have the teeth on them (called a utility belt).
Thanks Dragon! Good luck with yours- I'm loving mine and they are heavy and solid for such a little machine. On the casters, check out this guys videos on his channel for other caster ideas. I just saw it the other day and he's come up with a brilliant retractable system on a variety of tools. I would feel better with something like it over just using locking casters. This machine is so top heavy I would consider something like he's done. If I ever put mine on casters, his idea will be my choice.
Retractable Casters for Power Tools
For the belt on mine, I'm using a Fenner PowerTwist belt. I run them on most of my tools and love them. But, if you want to run a standard V-belt, try to look for power transmission suppliers. There may be one in your area They would probably be your best bet to find the proper machine belt- without the teeth.
Good luck, G.
entrthedragon i
Thanks for the info
No problem Casey! Take care, G.
I'm watching your series of videos on the Rockwell 4" jointer. I have the same jointer, like you say, the jointer is a tank. I am considering trading up to a 6" jointer with a longer blade so that I can joint longer boards, but I really don't know the limits of my little jointer. You have had over a year using your jointer, how long of a board can you straighten? I sometimes need to joint the edge of an 8' board, but this is rare.
Ed Waggoner Sr. Ed, probably about 6' is the longest boards I've ran through it and didn't have any problems. You might consider setting up and out-feed roller to receive long boards. I wouldn't mind having a 6" so I could run wider boards, but other than that, the 4 works out well for me. Hope this helps, G.
***** Thanks for the prompt answer. A fellow craftsman suggested a ratio of 2:1 which is close to your experience. Some think that all boards destined for furniture should be ripped to 4" and glued back together to relieve internal stress, this sounds plausible.
Ed Waggoner Sr.
No problem! Ripping and gluing does sound plausible. Good luck, G.
Does new Jointers have the same blade holding system? Great vid as always.
I'm not sure Bain. I do know some have adjusting screws so you can adjust the knives. There may be some that are more like this one- but again, I'm not sure. G.
I have one just like this one I just watched, blades need sharpening which I will do. PROBLEM ..one of the bearings seems to be a bit dry, and of course it's pressed on. Is there a bearing replacement available and a guestimate of what it would cost for the repair. If you have an address I would appreciate it. thanks for the tutiorial, been looking for this for awhile. . I've had this one at least 20 yrs and no manuel. A yard sale find... Thanks
That's cool Wayne. If yours is a 37-290 model, these are the exact bearings I used on mine- and where I purchased them from.
www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Delta-Rockwell-Milwaukee-4-Jointer-Cutter-Head-Bearings-Set-of-2-87502-/221842945900?hash=item33a6deb76c:g:5IYAAOSwjRpZQwMY
I used a Harbor Freight bearing separator to remove and install them. You can find 20% off coupons online.
www.harborfreight.com/Bearing-Separator-and-Puller-Set-62593.html
This video shows the tool, and it's use. You'll have to jump around the video some to see the whole process. It's not that hard to change them out.
ruclips.net/video/z24-2UXAszk/видео.html
Here's a link to the manual! Hope this helps, G.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjPsPG6i9vWAhUL3GMKHQcLDe8QFggoMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fvintagemachinery.org%2Fpubs%2F698%2F2201.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2kRcnMNMTXpUnECS7Ye4F-
I have a jointer just like this has been sitting in the garage for about a year i guess its time to try to get it going. So I greatly appreciate your videos ! I thought I would have to buy new blades but with your video i was able today to get two of them sharpened . Will probably finish it up tomorrow and hopefully get it put back together. I was wondering if you could tell me where you found your model number. Mine has a tag that tells the serial number that tag is on the back . There is also a tag on the front that says Homecraft Delta . But i dont see where the model number is. Thanks.
No problem Jeff! Glad the videos were useful. My plates are exactly as you describe- none with a model number. I looked at pictures on the web and determined mine to be a 37-290 Deluxe. Why they didn't put the model on them is beyond me. Hope this helps. Good luck with the rest of your build! G.
Thank you. Im guessing mine is the same.
No problem! G.
Any advice of a frozen out feed table on this jointer 😅
Loosen up the gib screws, saturate everything with a penetrating oil and let it sit for a long time. Don't force anything. Give it time, no matter how much. You will get there. Good luck, G.
Blades were taken out for sharpening but i cant remember who did it! Need blades. Where to get? Jim
James Rogers Jim, this link claims to fit the 37-290. Hope this helps, G.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O75HTG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/186-8376621-7798201?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1NNF37PZBDNKFT951NS4&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_i=B00004RK6L
What kind of wrench are you using to tighten those bolts? I have a Rockwell 6 inch jointer (likely manufactured in the 1970s). The bolts are 5/16 inch but I cannot find a thin enough wrench to get down in there. All the wrenches I can find in 5/16 are 5mm thick, but I have determined that I need one 4.5mm or thinner. Any help is appreciated!
Darron, I had the same problem with mine. I used my bench grinder to grind an old wrench thinner so I could get it down in there. Not glamorous, but it worked. Hope this helps, G.
Glad to know I'm not alone. Ultimately, after purchasing 2 separate wrenches on Amazon and failing, I got a small Craftman set for $20 that included a thinner wrench.
Darron
Definitely not alone! Glad you were able to locate one that fit. Take care, G.
8mm
just take a cheap 5/16" wrench and grind it thinner. Much less headache than trying to find one that fits.
Where can I get replacement bearing retainers for this jointer?
I don't know- perhaps Ebay? G.
I have he exact machine! My neighbor passed away and his wife gave it to me! Can you tell me what blades to use, and also, mine seems to the turning to slow! It only has a 3 inch pulley on the motor! Is that the problem?
William, look though the comments as I know I've linked to some knives that should work. Amazon I believe. If the cutter-head pulley size is correct, I think (don't quote me) the motor pulley should be 6 or 6.5 as I recall. Try to find the manual online to be sure. Good luck, G.
I have a problem with my 2801 Re beaver jointer .
I would be so grateful if you could help?
Just bought it 2 days agoand got ripped off as there's something wrong with the motor 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Uh, sorry- if there's something wrong with the motor- focus your efforts there. That's all I can say. Good luck, G.
Thk ! What is the jointer model ?
Jonathan, it's a 37-290. Take care, G.
I wish you showed how that table adjusts up and down!! Those little handles under each side don't move the table. I gave them a few shots of Wd40, to no avail. What am I doing wrong???
Turning the cranks it what makes the tables go up and down. On the back, there should be some small screws- loosen them up then try again. To me, it sounds like yours is seized in some way. Get a penetrating oil - not WD. Let it soak and try again. Don't force anything. Take your time. Hope this helps, G.
Where can I get a manual and where can I get the blades?
Here you go Terry! G.
Manual: www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj10-C52Z3WAhUDslQKHXhfBU0QFggoMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fvintagemachinery.org%2Fpubs%2F698%2F2201.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFVRxRLtbWJwVMX6QZ5ztnQ2RiGgQ
I believe these blades will work: www.amazon.com/19-HSS-Planer-Blades-Walker-Turner/dp/B002O75HTG
Thank you so much. I got it! Great video by the way.
No problem Terry, and thanks! G.
Where can I find these blades?
I know I've posted a link in the comments to Amazon for them before. I have many videos related to this jointer so I don't know which contained it. I would search around Amazon, or through the comments on my videos. Not much help, but good luck nonetheless. Take care, G.
ghostses that’s helps. Thanks!
No problem! G.
Now this makes sense, you set your cutter edge at "0" to the table out feed. Why do I keep seeing people telling you to put blade edge higher than the table out feed and call it "0". As I understand it, the blades should clear the cutter block by the manufactures setting, my case 0.7/0.8mm, but the blade edge should be at "0" with the table out feed. The table out feed edge height is adjustable like yours. Then you adjust and calibrate the table in feed to match giving a true total table feed as "0". Your version makes sense, maybe we are both wrong but I go with this version.
I wen't by the original instructions for this jointer, but setting them to same height as the out feed makes sense to me. If the out feed is too high, the work will hit the table. I see if it's too low, once the material passes over the cutter- the downward pressure on the work will cause it to tilt and gouge the work. This way works for me so that's the way I roll. Good luck, G.
Hi ghostses. Thanx for putting this info on video, Awesome !! I got this jointer this week from a guy who inherited it from his dad and has no use for it (Stood in his garage for 20 years, after dad). The whole machine was rusted beyond belief ... I am asking everyone watching this if there is a link to this machines owners / users manual that I can download it ? As far as mine goes, some parts of the fence seem missing but the restoration process is 50% complete. I had to remove the old paint, replace some bolts and nuts and repaint is planned for the coming week. Also I am having the blade mechanism's bearings and the motor bearings replaced, so that should be done within next week. Cant wait for final assembly. So I am watching your vids with eagle eyes this week :D - Update: I found the manuals on Vintage Machinery . com
I was just getting ready to send you to Vintage Machinery to locate the manual but then saw your update. That's Keith Ruckers website. He has a machinery channel on RUclips. Ebay will probably be your best bet for finding anything your missing. Good luck with the rest of your project. G.
@@ghostses Many thanx. That is one awesome website... Never knew there were so much vintage fandom going on :D
No problem! Yes there is. Keeping old iron alive is the game. Much better that what is being produced these days. Take care, G.