Oh yes, on entry to harbour at Bluffers Park Yacht Club in Scarborough Ont. Rocks on both sides, following sea. Ended up using just jib to get to dock. Let's say it was memorable (this was in 1980's)
yes, just left Cardiff Barrage and engine overheat alarm came on as a hose had come loose. Luckily no wind so lowered my tender outboard on its bracket and it got me back at 1 knot to do the repair. Second time was off Hartland Point in the Bristol Channel. Luckily I had wind so sailed way off the shore to repair. It was air in the system. Probably telling you something you already know but just in case, try to keep your tank full so there is limited air in it. This helps with diesel bug. Good luck with the engine, gutted for you.
if your head gasket has failed and is leaking coolant into the cylinders, it could cause it to 'hydrolock' when starting, meaning uncompressible water is being pushed on by the cylinders in the closed combustion chamber and is straining the piston-rod assembly. If only a little coolant is present, and the quantity is dependent on the size of the leak and the amount of time the engine is sitting off, it will either just blow white smoke out the exhaust once started, or worse, be hard to start, as the liquid water is opposing the starter, but eventually start, or worst case, so much water is in a cylinder it block the starter from turning and moving the piston, breaking something in the process... The shorter the engine sits off, the smaller the amount of coolant that can leak into the combustion chamber... Letting the engine run is optimal, as any coolant is constantly burned off and ejected with the exhaust harmlessly. Every restart, especially after hours of sitting off, is straining the assembly... Therefore once started, leave the engine running for as long as possible, its the safest state. Every restart is a chance for damage...
We sailed into Nassau Harbor (west entrance) in twenty five knot winds once, and cranked the engine just outside the harbor entrance and had it die right as we came in. We were weaving in and out of the anchored boats near the cruise ships trying not to hit anybody and find a spot to anchor. We finally did, and of course we immediately started dragging. We couldn't get the engine started, got the anchor up, sailed away from hitting the sea wall by ten feet, sailed past the cruise ships, narrowly missing their dock, up to the outer pier of the old Hurricane Hole marina and lassoed a piling on their outside docks. as we drifted by. Mind you, this is all at ten O'clock at night! The problem turned out to be a piece of diesel bug that looked like the seed pod of Johnson grass. It had got caught in a 90 turn in the fuel line, before the Racor fuel filter.
Always check the negative ground to the engine. I have found when a boat motor starter is dragging, that is frequently where the voltage resistance will be. You forget about the battery negative connection to the engine, but it will get corroded over time. But, it sounds like you had some air in there or a clog.
Put voltmeter across battery terminals, crank engine record battery voltage while cranking should be better than 12.5v. Now put voltmeter from battery + to engine ,crank again if voltage drops by more than 0.5v you have an issue with the starting circuit,or the starter motor is on the way out. Don't take the head off without doing a pressure test first.
The engine if installed correctly should be Insulated Return !! The starter , alternator and ALL sensors SHOULD not return through the engine ! If its using the engine as an earth then it will cause electrolisis ! The way thats trying to crank sounds like a lazy starter / bad earth. Easiest way to tell is after trying to crank feel the 2 wires from the batt . If one is warm/hot thats where the fault is .
The engine is not starting due to the slow cranking. Check and clean all the connections . Don't forget that isolator switches and solenoids can go bad. Does the engine start better when it's warm ?If not there could be air in the diesel system. Bleed the system all the way from the lift pump through to the injectors.
Be sure the check valve on the exhaust hose is working. It is possible to get seawater siphoning back into the exhaust and into the cylinders causing a hydro-lock which will mimic a bad starter/battery.
as a mechanic / marine mechanic..by the way its slowly cranking over. its possible. You have power but your not getting enough current....disconnect the battery's first , then find where the ground wires connect to your engine and any connections along the grounding cable... wire brush them all clean , as well as the point where the ground connects to the engine... dress the connections with di-electric grease to prevent future corrosion.
I hadn't read this and other comments before I posted about cleaning the battery posts and cable terminals then coating them with dielectric grease. Doh!
I highly recommend a primary filter with a clear inspection bowl and heat deflector at the bottom, such as a Racor MA500. Add a drain valve with threads for a plug, and a vacuum gauge between the primary filter assembly and the engine. As the filter element collects contaminants it restricts fuel flow, which a vacuum gauge immediately indicates. I also think you have a weak starter or a wiring connection issue between the battery and the starter.
Whilst you may have a fuel issue, that isn’t what’s stopping your engine starting. It’s not a case of not starting per se, it’s not turning over. The batteries are fine as you’ve tested. My money would be on a bad/loose/corroded contact inc ground. Or bad solenoid/ starter motor. Once the motor is turning and not starting then you can look at air/fuel - nearly always the latter. It’s seems, however, your filters are doing the job as it runs fine once started which it wouldn’t do if there was a fuel issue.
Logically you have tested your batteries and they are ok. After you crank for a while you overcome the cranking resistance of your engine and start and run ok. If your engine has resistance to turning over and then starting, it would seem to indicate a head gasket issue. If after you've got it going and cleared it after about 30 seconds, turn it off and wait 10 seconds and try to restart, making sure that water is not pissing into your inlet manifold. If your engine tries to lock, dont try any more to star until you figure out whats locking it. When your engine is running check by removing radiator cap WHILST ENGINE COLD and check for smelly smoky air bubbles in radiator. rev it a bit, not much and look for these bubbles. If coolant level is down, top up so you can see water in top of filler neck. This will make it easier to see bubbles, if they manifest. Put in gear and either strain against the anchor to place load on the engine or steam under one third power and look for bubbles. Leave radiator cap off and let engine cool to ambient over 4 hours and try to start. Check for water in your inlet before doing so as you don't want to suck water in and fornicate your engine. If there are no bubbles in your engine coolant and its still tryin to hydrolock then water is leaking into inlet from somewhere. If there are bubbles and engine will not try to lock with radiator cap off, most likely head gasket. Otherwise, call Captain Ron. Whatever, you need a Mechanic.
@@hawkman302 clamp test starter current with a DC Ammeter on the starter cable but fault is indicative of early hydrolock caused by water ingress into the cylinders.
@@MrCA610 because that's indicative of a leaky head gasket. Once it has started will turn over freely until water ingestion after sitting switched off and pressure seeps water into cylinders.
It sounds to me like the starter motor. it running rough was the fuel, but that wouldn't stop it turning over. I'm sure its the starter. try the connections on the motor itself, if that doesn't work get it off and get it checked , I don't think its the head gasket or you would have water in the oil which makes it go milky. good luck.
Yes, sounds like bad a connection on isolator switch or on starter, bad earth or the starter itself. You also need to polish the fuel as when in heavy seas it will get churned up and enter the intake once again.
Clean all the battery cable connections, both negative and positive, including the connections on the engine. Connect your voltmeter to the batteries & crank the engine, noting the amount of voltage drop. Then connect the voltmeter to the starter positive terminal and the engine ground terminal, testing the voltage drop again. If there is a significant difference, then bypass the battery switch (which is ancient) by connecting the two lugs on the same terminal on the back of the switch. If this solves the problem, then the old switch is the issue. If the batteries are good, all the connections are clean and it still won't turn over properly, then look at the starter. It's possible to disassemble the starter yourself to inspect the armature and brushes. The armature should be bright and clean. Do not use sandpaper unless it's a very fine grit. A Scotchbrite pad would be better. Your starting issue isn't "air" or fuel... you aren't getting enough power to the starter or the starter itself is worn. Start with cleaning ALL the connections and don't assume the battery switch is OK, it's very old. You can also bypass all the cabling with jumper cables or spare battery cable. I can't speak about possible hydro-locking... not my field, although I do know that you shouldn't crank the engine significantly unless you close the cooling intake. If the engine doesn't start, the impeller can fill up the exhaust with cooling water which can then backlog into the engine.
It is great that your fuel filter caught the issue, but I also think your engine is not cranking as it should, which should be freely and quite quickly. I suggest you check all engine earth connections and starter connections: it is free to do and will at least assure you that they are OK. In a saline environment, I would protect all of these connections with dielectric grease. Next suspect, given you believe the battery to be OK, is the starter motor. You should carry a spare in any event. If you have one, swap it out when time suits to confirm /eliminate. Something isn't right, in any event.
First, thank you for all the work it took to make a video this long. It turned out I was tough enough to look at the cut on your foot Becka, but thanks for the warning. I hope it heals quickly. Fingers are crossed about the engine. More will be revealed. I love the joy I see on your guys faces when you discover new places or things. I love the journey. Thanks again. Stay safe ❤🙏
The starting problem could be a corroded selenoid contacts. You may already know this but a starting selenoid is a type of relay with very high current contacts. When engaged the contacts come together with a good degree of force. Corroded internal contacts exhibit much the same symptoms as corroded battery terminal or corrosion on the external selenoid connection. There are two ways to troubleshoot: 1. Click the start key on and off several times quickly to see if you can knock some of the corrosion loose. Then it may start easily, 2. Bypass the selenoid contacts using a screwdriver or a wrench across the terminals. If either of those things work then that is the problem. I hope that is helpful. Of course it could also be just the battery internal resistance is high (failing battery) or corroded batt contacts or battery cables with bad or corroded contacts (the most obvious problems). I really enjoy your videos.
It’s not always plain sailing as they say. Well done for showing that it isn’t all blue seas and golden sands. The engine failing would certainly freak me out. Here’s hoping that you’ve got things sorted with the engine and you can thoroughly get back to relaxing in the beautiful scenery.
It is not head gasket, that would over pressurize the coolant system when running. Check your exhaust for unburnt fuel or excessive smoking when first starting= leaky fuel injector. If thats all good then starter, battery switch or cables. Test the cables and switch with the battery tester. As you check down the line- away from the battery, you will get a slight drop in the CCA of the battery. Very obvious if a cable or connection is bad cuz your CCA will dive into the toilet.
yes this above is good advice, also dont just pull the head off but use a special pressure gauge to measure cylinder pressure. this will let you know the pressure for each cylinder and also you will know the state of the engine, if piston rings are getting worn etc.
Hi, thanks for your video's, I really like them! I have had contaminated fuel in my boat and even though I have added all kinds of fuel cleaners the bacteria residu kept coming back and clotted the fuel system at times the engine was really needed... Once the fuels is contaminated the only thing that works is to totally empty your tank(s). Clean the inside and avoid dirty fuels and water entering your tanks. Filters only avoid the residu to enter your engine, but will be keep getting clotted when you don't clean your tanks.
Engine sounds fine x Solanoid/starter motor or the earth for the engine x A good addition for your first aid kit is iodine (for sterilisation) and a stitches kit I used to teach my chaps to do stitches using oranges 🍊 Ie slice it and close the cut again practicing stitches x The quicker you can sterilise the wound and stitch So its closed to the outside world and sources of infection x Invaluable addition to your skills x Its not hard really x Still missing wedding invite 😂
Your engine is hydrolocked. This is why it is getting better the more you try to start it. Check your exhaust elbow for leakage of water into the engine. If the exhaust water can not pass to the outside because the elbow is plugged it returns to the engine. Very important you check this. It could easily blow up your motor. Good luck guys.
Hmmmm. @3:20 That seems like a compression issue. Either water or fuel is leaking into the cylinders after the engine is shut off. Both will hydro-lock the cylinder while starting and will only go away after the piston is forced past the top of its cycle and the liquid is shot out into the exhaust. That explains why it turns over for a second and then halts. It also explains why trying a second or third time results in a running engine.
I’m sure there are lots of opinions about your Engine, here are mine. If a head gasket has failed you will normally have the pressurisation of the cooling system with coolant being blown out of the header tank and a drop in level of coolant. You may also get lots of white smoke coming from the exhaust. By the sound I’m hearing it sounds like the engine is cranking slowly, hence difficulty in starting. Also allow time for the heater plugs to do their Job. I think you may have a volt drop on starting. This means you’re not getting full battery power at the Starter Motor. Engines working in a salty damp environment often suffer with this problem. Disconnect all of your terminals Earths and Starter motor and give them a sanding and clean check battery and engine earths as well . Hopefully this should help, once done check voltage on battery post, battery terminals, and started motor to ensure your not getting a voltage drop between the battery and starter motor. Then check the voltage on cranking on the Battery and starter motor. I would be looking at 1 to 2 volt drop max on cranking the starter motor.
There was a period of time when high-voltage charging and starting cables were made with an aluminum core rather than the copper core we have all come to know and love. It was thought that aluminum wouldn't corrode the way copper does. Unfortunately, they were wrong. The problem is, when the aluminum breaks down, it turns to a white power that might as well be made of wood. The power you need just doesn't get to where you want it and, you rarely notice where the problem is. ( They even did it on some small aircraft. ) Check to be sure that none of your high-tension cables are aluminum and, if they are, replace them.
ENGINE PROBLEM Are you remembering that when you start a diesel engine that you must switch the key first to the position where the glow plugs are allowed to warm up. Then let them warm up for at least 30 seconds before turning the key to the position where the engine can turn over. From the footage it looked like you were jumping past the glow-plug warming phase far too fast. (If you do this for long enough, the engine may start, but it degrades the battery)
Supermodel on a sailboat, Lucky husband is living the dream, You two have great adventures, thanks for taking us along, seeing places we would never see.
Hi, I doubt its the head gasket! You don't get full power shorely because the engine is still restricted of diesel as you have a diesel bug problem, you also have to clear the hose from the tank to the racor filter you just cleaned. And then, disconnect the diesel same hose at the tank and shove a long screwdriver or something to clear it and make shore diesel flows. You should get the tank opened as soon as you can and mope it all out and finally whipe it with a rag with gasoline which aparently kills the bug. Its hapend to me too. Have the anchor ready ... A tip if its a week battery. Cover the engines air intake with your flat palm ( small engine like that) or somthing else but must seal well. Somebody else starts the engine and as it does not suke air, the engine will spin fast as no compression. Then take take hand off kwikly. I've done that many times. Great videos, first time I see you guys.
Agree with those who have left comments about your battery connections. You have diesel bug as well. But the slow turning starter motor is not caused by fuel gunk. Check cable connections and deal with voltage drops … it’ll probably be that simple. It might be water (as your pal suggests), but the engine runs well once started. If you can access the top of your tanks, rig a simple 12 volt pump, a Jerry can or two and a couple of pipes … and you’ll have a diesel polishing system that can be kept onboard and used regularly.
Check the starter motor and the grounds to it and to the battery. Your Battery isolator could be the sorce of poor connections...bypass it to test starting ...
I dealt with an engine before that had disconnects on it. The batts were good. The started was good. We just couldn’t get enough current across the disconnect to make the starter quit dragging. Fixed it by using a larger disconnect.
I think you maybe getting sea water coming back up the exhaust , have you made any changes to the anti syphon. Sounds to me if the engine is clearing out the water on the first attempts to start and then gets going. Have a look at the vent on the top of the antisyphon to make sure it has not become blocked by something
I know that this was a while back but I've just seen the video and your problem sound like a bad earth connection somewhere. Having just retired from 40 years afloat I can assure you that you will never run out of new problems to solve, good luck 😁
Revert to the basics: The contacts on your battery were dirty. You might try cleaning the battery cable to starter connection. Also make sure that your ground(earth) connections to the engine and the battery negative are good.
Check earthing strap as this seems to be the problem. Also, only be head gasket if you have water in the oil. Take oil cap off and check for a milky residue around the top and cap, if it's black, colour of oil, then its not the gasket.
When you first started having engine trouble before you crossed the Panama canal I was wondering if you would really try to cross the Pacific Ocean without an engine you could count on. So glad to see you are getting it fixed before you try. Better to be safe and enjoy the trip than to worry about it.
Dont want to send your gal into a hysterical breakdown, but you have foolish advisors, the engine is not turning over, its not the fuel its not a head gasket, not a battery its the thing that turns it over, the starter motor, sometimes if the bearing ir worn or lose or the bushing bearing worn or if the pick up brushes are worn it will hit or miss when starting, sometimes hitting it with a hammer will do the job till you get it rebuilt..
When it is windy like that at anchor or on a mooring run the mizzen up and the breeze will keep you down wind of the hook. Also it makes it a bit more comfortable inside.
Before putting the cables back on the battery terminals, spray it all with Corrosion Guard (by Waterguard USA) or Corrosion-X. This helps keep the green fuzzies away and everything working better longer. Also spritz down the fuse box and other connectors. I spent 37 years working offshore and this stuff is a life saver.
If there's water in the cylinders due to leaking head gasket, the exhaust sould smoke White and smel a bit sweet. The danger of water on top of the piston is hydro lock. You could bend a conrod or a valve....
Sounds like you need a demulsifier to separate the water and keep it in the primary filter water trap. It can then be drained regularly. Howes makes a really good product and it is inexpensive. Whatever you use, use the higher amount per gallon that is recommended initially. Make sure to keep using the best diesel bug additive that you can find even after you think the issue is over. With closed tanks, it is worth the cost.
Not only do you need to clean the battery posts and cable terminals BUT you also need to smear a thin coat of dielectric grease on the battery posts and cable terminals. This grease seals the connections from oxygen so they will be far less likely to oxidize. Most decent marine or auto parts stores should sell dielectric grease.
We think that the abandoned buildings were possibly linked to the US withdrawing from Panama. Panama on the whole is a very safe place. Thanks for your concerns 😊
If it’s not a computer controlled motor, use jumpers direct to the starter motor. You can see the extreme voltage drop at the instrument cluster when you are trying to start. Feel the 2/0 cables both positive and negative after a start attempt, looking for heat buildup which would indicate a bad cable or connection. Physically work the cables feeling for a hard point / internal corrosion both positive and negative. If all that produces no results remove the starter and overhaul / inspect it. Finally if all that fails turn the motor using a socket feeling for any binding/ do not confuse the normal compression. You can remove the injectors for that test if you want. Ensure the exhaust smoke if running is normal.
Sounds like electrical problem check connections from battery to your starter, check earth strap to your engine, it could be starter motor often the brushes worn not sure how to test starter but it would be my guess fact you get full cranking intermittently, i dont think it head gasket as once it starts you would see exhuast color or suffer overheating good luck on fixing
Fuel problems do not cause slow cranking or hard cranking. The motor would crank normally but not start. If the battery is good it can only be an electrical connection or starter. Of course hydro lock due to gasket failure could also cause hard cranking. For gasket failure look for milky oil or white smoke in the exhaust indicating water in the exhaust.
Agreed this is the correct diagnosis., Check the oil and bubbling in the cooling circuit if Ok which I suspes then its the connections. and or wiring to the starter and solenoid. you have confirmed the batteries are good. You could also rig a parallel connection to your house battery to boost the feed (if same type of battery) .
If you have a mechanical fuel pump, it's pretty dependent on the engine to turn at a certain speed to supply fuel to the engine. And the battery has to be strong enough to turn it fast enough for that to happen until it starts running on it's own. And it's not just the battery lugs that need to be shiny, the terminals / connectors attached to them and the cables connected to them all need to be clean and corrosion free. With the slowness that you have the engine cranking on video, disassemble and clean everything between the battery and the starter, both positive and negative.
A useful benchmark is to check the voltage right on the battery posts (not the cables) while you are cranking. Voltage above 9.5 points to trouble away from the battery.
It is clear that you have an electrical problem. Likely a bad connection. The fuel issue was a problem yet to come, so it was good to change the filter.
So glad I stumbled on this channel ! Lovely couple - cool boat - real life adventure ❤ I love that song you had playing “… little sad eyes , don’t you know ..” I can’t find it with those lyrics Great editing and music ! Thank you 🙏
That sounds electrical - Check battery connections - fuel would not stop the engine turning over. Possible Starter ? last issue could be massive increase in compression - i.e. water in cylinder chamber
always carry plenty os sterile eye pods (saline) great for flushing wounds , oh and the person who suggested super glue ! yes it works in a pinch , steri strips / wound closures good to , in an emergency gaffer tape , (really) , as a retired medic I've seen most lol clean and close , keep an eye on it ! sending love Darren.
Good luck with your engine. As others have said, start with all the heavy cables and look for loose or corroded connections. Negative side too. One way to find a bad connection is after attempting to crank for a few times, stop cranking and feel each joint for heat or warmth. Do this carefully so as not to get a burn. If you do find a warm or hot connection, undo it, clean up like a new pin and reconnect checking its tight. Grease or Vaseline around such joints will help keep the corrosion at bay. A spare known good starter motor on a boat is a must really. Sealed in a bag or cling film. Also check the heavy battery leads for any bulges that could be corrosion nodules. One other thing that could stop it cranking over fast enough is, as your friend said, head gasket letting a little cooling water into the cylinders. This can be indicated by removing the glow plugs if they will come out, then cranking the engine over to see if any liquid (coolant) is squirted out. It’s good practice to periodically remove them when in a marina to make sure you can get them out and they aren’t seized in. As you have done, start with the easy things first but if it’s having trouble cranking, battery, connections, cables, starter, something putting load on the engine. You said you changed the impeller, could this have somehow got mangled. Might be worth a check. Also if it was bad then did the engine overheat causing head gasket issues and a little water in the cylinders? First of your videos I’ve seen. I’ll be watching to see how you get on.
Wow I really look forward to Mondays because your next brilliant video is ready for me to watch, I have a good feeling you guys will sort the engine problem out, love you guys ⛵️⛵️👍👍
The symptom is slow cranking. A fuel or air problem would indeed prevent it from starting, but it wouldn't crank slowly. You've checked the batteries, so it sounds like a poor connection or a starter motor problem like brushes.
PLEASE READ!!!!!!!! You need to hold the start key on (I think it says R or H?) for a few seconds, before switching the key all over to start (all the way to the right) I think that should solve the issue. It is heating or "glowing" the injection rods before starting.
If you are worried about slipped the anchor I can recommend the books by Lin and Larry Pardey who were cruising legends. I think he carried 4 anchors and would leave his boat for months at a time. I think the book was Sailing Taliesin. I carried two anchors and would often put down a kedge as a bit more peace of mind.
You guys kept a cool head and didnt freak out, good job. I can honestly say i would be pretty freaked out being in such a remote place without an engine. Props to you guys, i hope everything works out. Cant wait for the next episode. Safe travels.
After checking connections check the starter motor for heat, this will show it needs servicing or replacing. It can get stuck on and start a fire so be careful. The engine sounds good, if it was air issues it would run hot or bad idling etc.
One tip that could be of use to you guys is, electrical contact grease ! I had trouble with some connections with water ingress on plug connections with the o rings not sealing. After doing that and on other connectors including my on board battery bank, no more problems or corrosion ! Cheers from New Zealand
Theres a chap out there living on a boat he collects sea glass and makes art work and jewelry ... that he sells to part finance his boating life. Its harder to find these days since plastic bottles took over... Loved the macro photography on the beach. .. You will get trees dropping leaves seasonally, or due to a dry season.... Or due to drought.. remember the state of the Canal is a regional/global phenomina With El ninio and el ninia both originating off the coast of Peru.
Yet another thought: your starter motor doesn't spin that hard . Bad wiring or bad starter motor are also valid causes. But, as it seems, you got bugs in the diesel... Every summer I check what diesel I put in. You have little choise finding diesel. The right additives really help my old Penta md2 . Know your engine, and you're a happy sailor I tell my sons.
Having replaced more than one starter - the definitely can go bad. The slow crank has nothing to do with fuel or air. If your batteries are good that leaves two items: 1) internal engine resistance 2) the starter Given the way the engine started I would suspect the starter.
@@AbNomal621 yeah, combined with diesel bug that might be a nasty cocktail. I run a purely mechanical Volvo Penta md2 which can be hand started if all else failed. But, it might be comfortable ro install a second fuel filter in the line to be able to switch between the two. Everyone's milage will vary ofcourse. My Bosch Dynastart is a real old revised thingy. It starts slow, and charges even slower, but when the belts are good, the diesel clean and regularly treated it fits the job it s supposed to do. Altogether, when you know your electrical setup and motor maintenance basics inside out... Sailing is more fun.
Hi, England calling, having been involved with Boats for over 40yrs, can I suggest the following; Change Fuel filters (ALL), and have the Starter motor checked out. I'd also have the fuel tanks checked for Water & finally Keep going
Lovely. Fingers crossed on the bug. We had it and it was everywhere in the fuel line. I hope the fire pits were provided. Nothing worse than leaving fire mess on a white beach.
Feel the starter cable see if its hot? Look for a white/green powdery coating. Clean it off then tighten the cable to the starter so it has good contact. Seems the reason it turns over slowly is corrosion on terminal. Check air filter intake too then fuel sediment bowl for any water or contaminated fuel. Good fuel should be clear with no cloudiness. Try bleeding the fuel if air is in the line.
We had a Volvo diesel stop functioning on a 64' Show. Water in the diesel was the reason, probably included with the diesel when we filled her up in the meditaranean. Result was a complete engine change....
Put some grease on electrical connections - it protects from moisture and air so they wont rust. You can put grease on pretty much anything, really. On nuts and bolts for example. A simple trick that works wonders. There are special products available, but normal mechanical grease works fine, too.
The motor problem sounds like a bad starter to me. Be very careful about cranking for too long without giving it a rest, or you could burn it completely out! (even if that isn't the actual problem)
Sound more like you have a poor joint somewhere between starter motor and battery as the crank speed keeps varying. There could be fuel and air problems as well but first get the crank speed up which will help. Dirty fuel will just make the problem worse for starting but even so the crank speed is way too slow and variable at times.
Ouch! Get yourself some Betadine swabs and some chlohexadine sachets for your first aid kit, ( wound and skin cleaning ) it’s what we use in A and E, most chemists around the world have then. Have a selection of Steristrips in your kit to hold the skin together is you get deep cuts, also medical glue, all good stuff. Engine doesn’t sound like it’s turning over, starter is struggling.. dodgy brushes on the starter…
If you keep cranking the engine and it does not start you will have water backing up into the exhaust. So shut of the water intake and if it start you can open the water intake again.
Be sure your battery cables are atleast 2/0 cables to the starter, both the minus and the plus cable all the way to the battery and check the terminals and be sure the all fittings are tight including those on the starter.
I am not convinced it is the head gasket! Normally when they go that is it on a diesel, simply won't start. I had that on my previous yacht. The slow cranking in the beginning points to an electrical/starter/solenoid issue. Good luck! Love your videos!
Common as rain, contaminated fuel. I'd check the starter, your batteries looked good but it sounds like a bare spot on the starter. Superior editing, sound and cinematography. Your fast becoming our #1 sailing channel, loved how each sequence blended so nicely throughout. Your efforts are really paying off. Best with your cut Becka's foot, do you carry tetanus syringe aboard? Praying for a safe passage and that engine problem is not major.
Great video Guy’s, beautifully Edited. Becca really hope your foot is healing looked a nasty cut. Engine look for a funky oil filler cap if water is getting into the oil it looks like Mayonnaise. Bad head gasket doesn’t make starting hard just loss of power for a boat white smoke. I would go through electrical first check Negative grounds are on clean surfaces, starter and Battery terminals. Give surfaces some coarse sand paper. Hope gets sorted cheaply. All the very best to you both from us in the Southwest 🇬🇧Take care
@@TeuluTribe Really pleased your all healed we love seeing your Travels and can’t wait to see all the fantastic places you’re going to visit. Brother Owns a large Garage in the Bay & Sons a Vehicle Technician in the same place so unfortunately I learned an awful Lot over the years, all my boats have had big outboards but our T5 is Diesel.
Drifting towards a jagged shoal in a storm while being far from home is my definition of an "inopportune moment". Clean electrical connections is "low hanging fruit" and should be done while in a safe harbor before departing. I don't sail but I do motor in the 30,000 Islands (60,000 hazards) so having a "kicker motor" is a must. It sure takes the stress off my mind allowing me to focus on the hazards ahead. A friend of mine had mounted a 10hp Honda on his 38ft sailboat and we used it to power us back from Giants Tomb Island to Penetanguishine Ontario. Learning how to use old school charts and magnetic compass is also a good idea.
You should also check the furl tank ,I would drain it or if u can shine a torch in the tank and see if u have any rubbish ,even if u sifen some out with a piece ov hose make sure the hose hits the bottom ov the tank
I had an old tracker doing the same thing. it was very hard to find the starter, so off it came. What I found after splitting the case was very corroded brushes. after I got them hot trying to start it, the starter would work. After a good cleaning the starter worked fine.
sounds like youre not getting full current to the starter. look at all the cable connection points between the starter and the battery. The must be corrosion free. Battery terminal antioxide paste will keep them clean for a long time. These two cables should be large 4 gauge multi stranded silicone wires. Bigger is better when you deliver current to a starter on a low voltage system.
Becareful with that barefoot traveling in Latin America. Bushmasters, Eyelash vipers, Fer de lance, and many other necrotizing viper bites can happen so easily around that area. Thousands of people annually are treated for bites in C.R. Panama, Columbia and Brazil. Careful, careful.
That was really scary- I felt for you both! When the engine is finicky it gets scary. Glad it started and hoping it is fixed well soon for you. In my thoughts ❤
My boat sat for 6 years full of fuel. It had no moisture whatsoever but a bad case of microbes. We treated the fuel for microbes but they die and turn into that black stuff that plugs everything up. I had to pump out the fuel (50 gallons) and polished and stored it in Jerry cans. All my friends loaned me some. Then I cut holes through each baffle space and took a paint scraper and cleaned them out yuck. I smelled like diesel for 3 days. So when 8 boats from our club went on a blue water cruise/sail, 5 out of the 8 boats had the milkshake blues when it got rough. E were fine
Not having a working engine...far from ideal...have you ever had an engine let you down at the most inopportune moment? 🛠⚙
Oh yes, on entry to harbour at Bluffers Park Yacht Club in Scarborough Ont. Rocks on both sides, following sea. Ended up using just jib to get to dock. Let's say it was memorable (this was in 1980's)
yes, just left Cardiff Barrage and engine overheat alarm came on as a hose had come loose. Luckily no wind so lowered my tender outboard on its bracket and it got me back at 1 knot to do the repair. Second time was off Hartland Point in the Bristol Channel. Luckily I had wind so sailed way off the shore to repair. It was air in the system. Probably telling you something you already know but just in case, try to keep your tank full so there is limited air in it. This helps with diesel bug. Good luck with the engine, gutted for you.
if your head gasket has failed and is leaking coolant into the cylinders, it could cause it to 'hydrolock' when starting, meaning uncompressible water is being pushed on by the cylinders in the closed combustion chamber and is straining the piston-rod assembly. If only a little coolant is present, and the quantity is dependent on the size of the leak and the amount of time the engine is sitting off, it will either just blow white smoke out the exhaust once started, or worse, be hard to start, as the liquid water is opposing the starter, but eventually start, or worst case, so much water is in a cylinder it block the starter from turning and moving the piston, breaking something in the process... The shorter the engine sits off, the smaller the amount of coolant that can leak into the combustion chamber... Letting the engine run is optimal, as any coolant is constantly burned off and ejected with the exhaust harmlessly. Every restart, especially after hours of sitting off, is straining the assembly... Therefore once started, leave the engine running for as long as possible, its the safest state. Every restart is a chance for damage...
We sailed into Nassau Harbor (west entrance) in twenty five knot winds once, and cranked the engine just outside the harbor entrance and had it die right as we came in. We were weaving in and out of the anchored boats near the cruise ships trying not to hit anybody and find a spot to anchor. We finally did, and of course we immediately started dragging. We couldn't get the engine started, got the anchor up, sailed away from hitting the sea wall by ten feet, sailed past the cruise ships, narrowly missing their dock, up to the outer pier of the old Hurricane Hole marina and lassoed a piling on their outside docks. as we drifted by. Mind you, this is all at ten O'clock at night! The problem turned out to be a piece of diesel bug that looked like the seed pod of Johnson grass. It had got caught in a 90 turn in the fuel line, before the Racor fuel filter.
Engines almost always decide to quit at the most inopportune time! Have to count on that and be ready!
Always check the negative ground to the engine. I have found when a boat motor starter is dragging, that is frequently where the voltage resistance will be. You forget about the battery negative connection to the engine, but it will get corroded over time. But, it sounds like you had some air in there or a clog.
The ground connection is often overlooked by even experienced technicians. It is a sneaky one for sure.
Put voltmeter across battery terminals, crank engine record battery voltage while cranking should be better than 12.5v. Now put voltmeter from battery + to engine ,crank again if voltage drops by more than 0.5v you have an issue with the starting circuit,or the starter motor is on the way out. Don't take the head off without doing a pressure test first.
Check all connections, then the starter solenoid. The big washer inside can go bad and make a poor connection giving the slow crake we are hearing.
The engine if installed correctly should be Insulated Return !! The starter , alternator and ALL sensors SHOULD not return through the engine ! If its using the engine as an earth then it will cause electrolisis ! The way thats trying to crank sounds like a lazy starter / bad earth. Easiest way to tell is after trying to crank feel the 2 wires from the batt . If one is warm/hot thats where the fault is .
The engine is not starting due to the slow cranking. Check and clean all the connections . Don't forget that isolator switches and solenoids can go bad.
Does the engine start better when it's warm ?If not there could be air in the diesel system. Bleed the system all the way from the lift pump through to the injectors.
Be sure the check valve on the exhaust hose is working. It is possible to get seawater siphoning back into the exhaust and into the cylinders causing a hydro-lock which will mimic a bad starter/battery.
as a mechanic / marine mechanic..by the way its slowly cranking over. its possible. You have power but your not getting enough current....disconnect the battery's first , then find where the ground wires connect to your engine and any connections along the grounding cable... wire brush them all clean , as well as the point where the ground connects to the engine... dress the connections with di-electric grease to prevent future corrosion.
As a customer of a mechanic/marine mechanic, I will agree that this has worked for me. It's a lot cheaper than pulling the head and resurfacing it.
@@dohabandit You are preaching to the choir!
I hadn't read this and other comments before I posted about cleaning the battery posts and cable terminals then coating them with dielectric grease. Doh!
Tip for wounds, clean thoroughly then use superglue over top to seal wound (almost identical to medical superglue). Plaster, good as new!
I highly recommend a primary filter with a clear inspection bowl and heat deflector at the bottom, such as a Racor MA500. Add a drain valve with threads for a plug, and a vacuum gauge between the primary filter assembly and the engine. As the filter element collects contaminants it restricts fuel flow, which a vacuum gauge immediately indicates. I also think you have a weak starter or a wiring connection issue between the battery and the starter.
Whilst you may have a fuel issue, that isn’t what’s stopping your engine starting. It’s not a case of not starting per se, it’s not turning over. The batteries are fine as you’ve tested. My money would be on a bad/loose/corroded contact inc ground. Or bad solenoid/ starter motor. Once the motor is turning and not starting then you can look at air/fuel - nearly always the latter. It’s seems, however, your filters are doing the job as it runs fine once started which it wouldn’t do if there was a fuel issue.
I thought starter motor but why does it get better then eventually start?
Logically you have tested your batteries and they are ok. After you crank for a while you overcome the cranking resistance of your engine and start and run ok. If your engine has resistance to turning over and then starting, it would seem to indicate a head gasket issue. If after you've got it going and cleared it after about 30 seconds, turn it off and wait 10 seconds and try to restart, making sure that water is not pissing into your inlet manifold. If your engine tries to lock, dont try any more to star until you figure out whats locking it. When your engine is running check by removing radiator cap WHILST ENGINE COLD and check for smelly smoky air bubbles in radiator. rev it a bit, not much and look for these bubbles. If coolant level is down, top up so you can see water in top of filler neck. This will make it easier to see bubbles, if they manifest. Put in gear and either strain against the anchor to place load on the engine or steam under one third power and look for bubbles. Leave radiator cap off and let engine cool to ambient over 4 hours and try to start. Check for water in your inlet before doing so as you don't want to suck water in and fornicate your engine. If there are no bubbles in your engine coolant and its still tryin to hydrolock then water is leaking into inlet from somewhere. If there are bubbles and engine will not try to lock with radiator cap off, most likely head gasket. Otherwise, call Captain Ron. Whatever, you need a Mechanic.
Could also be the starter motor. Check the brushes. Easy to access and replace if you have them.
@@hawkman302 clamp test starter current with a DC Ammeter on the starter cable but fault is indicative of early hydrolock caused by water ingress into the cylinders.
@@MrCA610 because that's indicative of a leaky head gasket. Once it has started will turn over freely until water ingestion after sitting switched off and pressure seeps water into cylinders.
It sounds to me like the starter motor. it running rough was the fuel, but that wouldn't stop it turning over. I'm sure its the starter. try the connections on the motor itself, if that doesn't work get it off and get it checked , I don't think its the head gasket
or you would have water in the oil which makes it go milky. good luck.
Yes, sounds like bad a connection on isolator switch or on starter, bad earth or the starter itself. You also need to polish the fuel as when in heavy seas it will get churned up and enter the intake once again.
my husband agrees with Andy.
Agree
Thank you for the detailed advice! I'll definitely check the connections on the starter motor!
Clean all the battery cable connections, both negative and positive, including the connections on the engine. Connect your voltmeter to the batteries & crank the engine, noting the amount of voltage drop. Then connect the voltmeter to the starter positive terminal and the engine ground terminal, testing the voltage drop again. If there is a significant difference, then bypass the battery switch (which is ancient) by connecting the two lugs on the same terminal on the back of the switch. If this solves the problem, then the old switch is the issue. If the batteries are good, all the connections are clean and it still won't turn over properly, then look at the starter. It's possible to disassemble the starter yourself to inspect the armature and brushes. The armature should be bright and clean. Do not use sandpaper unless it's a very fine grit. A Scotchbrite pad would be better.
Your starting issue isn't "air" or fuel... you aren't getting enough power to the starter or the starter itself is worn. Start with cleaning ALL the connections and don't assume the battery switch is OK, it's very old. You can also bypass all the cabling with jumper cables or spare battery cable.
I can't speak about possible hydro-locking... not my field, although I do know that you shouldn't crank the engine significantly unless you close the cooling intake. If the engine doesn't start, the impeller can fill up the exhaust with cooling water which can then backlog into the engine.
It is great that your fuel filter caught the issue, but I also think your engine is not cranking as it should, which should be freely and quite quickly. I suggest you check all engine earth connections and starter connections: it is free to do and will at least assure you that they are OK. In a saline environment, I would protect all of these connections with dielectric grease. Next suspect, given you believe the battery to be OK, is the starter motor. You should carry a spare in any event. If you have one, swap it out when time suits to confirm /eliminate. Something isn't right, in any event.
Thank you both for taking us along for the ride.
First, thank you for all the work it took to make a video this long. It turned out I was tough enough to look at the cut on your foot Becka, but thanks for the warning. I hope it heals quickly. Fingers are crossed about the engine. More will be revealed. I love the joy I see on your guys faces when you discover new places or things. I love the journey. Thanks again. Stay safe ❤🙏
Your support means a lot to us, thank you for watching our journey and for your well wishes! I'm sure we'll figure out what is wrong with the engine 😊
Thanks for the adventure,this old man love's going along, you are such a good couple,wish you the best in your life.😂
It is our pleasure to have you join us on this adventure, and we appreciate your kind words!
The starting problem could be a corroded selenoid contacts. You may already know this but a starting selenoid is a type of relay with very high current contacts. When engaged the contacts come together with a good degree of force. Corroded internal contacts exhibit much the same symptoms as corroded battery terminal or corrosion on the external selenoid connection.
There are two ways to troubleshoot: 1. Click the start key on and off several times quickly to see if you can knock some of the corrosion loose. Then it may start easily, 2. Bypass the selenoid contacts using a screwdriver or a wrench across the terminals. If either of those things work then that is the problem. I hope that is helpful. Of course it could also be just the battery internal resistance is high (failing battery) or corroded batt contacts or battery cables with bad or corroded contacts (the most obvious problems).
I really enjoy your videos.
It’s not always plain sailing as they say. Well done for showing that it isn’t all blue seas and golden sands. The engine failing would certainly freak me out. Here’s hoping that you’ve got things sorted with the engine and you can thoroughly get back to relaxing in the beautiful scenery.
It is not head gasket, that would over pressurize the coolant system when running. Check your exhaust for unburnt fuel or excessive smoking when first starting= leaky fuel injector. If thats all good then starter, battery switch or cables. Test the cables and switch with the battery tester. As you check down the line- away from the battery, you will get a slight drop in the CCA of the battery. Very obvious if a cable or connection is bad cuz your CCA will dive into the toilet.
yes this above is good advice, also dont just pull the head off but use a special pressure gauge to measure cylinder pressure. this will let you know the pressure for each cylinder and also you will know the state of the engine, if piston rings are getting worn etc.
Thanks for the detailed explanation and troubleshooting tips! We’ll have a look into it.
Hi, thanks for your video's, I really like them! I have had contaminated fuel in my boat and even though I have added all kinds of fuel cleaners the bacteria residu kept coming back and clotted the fuel system at times the engine was really needed... Once the fuels is contaminated the only thing that works is to totally empty your tank(s). Clean the inside and avoid dirty fuels and water entering your tanks. Filters only avoid the residu to enter your engine, but will be keep getting clotted when you don't clean your tanks.
Thank you for your kind words! I'm glad you enjoy the videos. We’ll look to get the tanks cleaned at the end of the season.
Engine sounds fine x
Solanoid/starter motor or the earth for the engine x
A good addition for your first aid kit is iodine (for sterilisation) and a stitches kit
I used to teach my chaps to do stitches using oranges 🍊
Ie slice it and close the cut again practicing stitches x
The quicker you can sterilise the wound and stitch So its closed to the outside world and sources of infection x
Invaluable addition to your skills x
Its not hard really x
Still missing wedding invite 😂
Iodine, an absolute must in the tropics! All the best folks. Glad to see the drone didn't get itself drowned.
Your engine is hydrolocked. This is why it is getting better the more you try to start it. Check your exhaust elbow for leakage of water into the engine. If the exhaust water can not pass to the outside because the elbow is plugged it returns to the engine. Very important you check this. It could easily blow up your motor. Good luck guys.
hydrolocked sounds much harder though? theirs was soft with weak sounding starter. water tends to sound hard as a rock?
If was hydrolocked would not start and possibly blow engine
Hmmmm. @3:20 That seems like a compression issue. Either water or fuel is leaking into the cylinders after the engine is shut off. Both will hydro-lock the cylinder while starting and will only go away after the piston is forced past the top of its cycle and the liquid is shot out into the exhaust. That explains why it turns over for a second and then halts. It also explains why trying a second or third time results in a running engine.
I’m sure there are lots of opinions about your Engine, here are mine.
If a head gasket has failed you will normally have the pressurisation of the cooling system with coolant being blown out of the header tank and a drop in level of coolant. You may also get lots of white smoke coming from the exhaust.
By the sound I’m hearing it sounds like the engine is cranking slowly, hence difficulty in starting. Also allow time for the heater plugs to do their Job. I think you may have a volt drop on starting. This means you’re not getting full battery power at the Starter Motor.
Engines working in a salty damp environment often suffer with this problem. Disconnect all of your terminals Earths and Starter motor and give them a sanding and clean check battery and engine earths as well .
Hopefully this should help, once done check voltage on battery post, battery terminals, and started motor to ensure your not getting a voltage drop between the battery and starter motor. Then check the voltage on cranking on the Battery and starter motor. I would be looking at 1 to 2 volt drop max on cranking the starter motor.
There was a period of time when high-voltage charging and starting cables were made with an aluminum core rather than the copper core we have all come to know and love. It was thought that aluminum wouldn't corrode the way copper does. Unfortunately, they were wrong. The problem is, when the aluminum breaks down, it turns to a white power that might as well be made of wood. The power you need just doesn't get to where you want it and, you rarely notice where the problem is. ( They even did it on some small aircraft. ) Check to be sure that none of your high-tension cables are aluminum and, if they are, replace them.
Aluminum wiring was even used in houses☠ It cost us an $800 radial arm saw. (luckily)
Aluminium corrodes if alkali gets onto it. Seawater is alkali so will corrode it down to white dust. Don't pee on your cables as that will also do it😊
@@user-it7lf7kk8m I couldn't agree more. Don't ever pee on electrical cables.
ENGINE PROBLEM
Are you remembering that when you start a diesel engine that you must switch the key first to the position where the glow plugs are allowed to warm up. Then let them warm up for at least 30 seconds before turning the key to the position where the engine can turn over.
From the footage it looked like you were jumping past the glow-plug warming phase far too fast. (If you do this for long enough, the engine may start, but it degrades the battery)
check that hint
Supermodel on a sailboat, Lucky husband is living the dream, You two have great adventures, thanks for taking us along, seeing places we would never see.
I have yet to see a supermodel on this channel....
@@eccentricsmithy2746 She is a supermodel!
@@eccentricsmithy2746show us a selfie
Hi, I doubt its the head gasket! You don't get full power shorely because the engine is still restricted of diesel as you have a diesel bug problem, you also have to clear the hose from the tank to the racor filter you just cleaned. And then, disconnect the diesel same hose at the tank and shove a long screwdriver or something to clear it and make shore diesel flows.
You should get the tank opened as soon as you can and mope it all out and finally whipe it with a rag with gasoline which aparently kills the bug. Its hapend to me too. Have the anchor ready ...
A tip if its a week battery. Cover the engines air intake with your flat palm ( small engine like that) or somthing else but must seal well. Somebody else starts the engine and as it does not suke air, the engine will spin fast as no compression. Then take take hand off kwikly.
I've done that many times.
Great videos, first time I see you guys.
Agree with those who have left comments about your battery connections. You have diesel bug as well. But the slow turning starter motor is not caused by fuel gunk. Check cable connections and deal with voltage drops … it’ll probably be that simple. It might be water (as your pal suggests), but the engine runs well once started.
If you can access the top of your tanks, rig a simple 12 volt pump, a Jerry can or two and a couple of pipes … and you’ll have a diesel polishing system that can be kept onboard and used regularly.
Check the starter motor and the grounds to it and to the battery. Your Battery isolator could be the sorce of poor connections...bypass it to test starting ...
Never mind infection, I'm glad she didn't get blood poisoning from the metal cut. All the best
I dealt with an engine before that had disconnects on it. The batts were good. The started was good. We just couldn’t get enough current across the disconnect to make the starter quit dragging. Fixed it by using a larger disconnect.
Starter motor dragging, check terminal lead to starter for tightness if thats ok the brushes in the starter are worn, replace 😁
Thank you for sharing that troubleshooting tip!
I think you maybe getting sea water coming back up the exhaust , have you made any changes to the anti syphon. Sounds to me if the engine is clearing out the water on the first attempts to start and then gets going. Have a look at the vent on the top of the antisyphon to make sure it has not become blocked by something
You know your stuff! We’ll have a look into it, thanks 😊
I know that this was a while back but I've just seen the video and your problem sound like a bad earth connection somewhere. Having just retired from 40 years afloat I can assure you that you will never run out of new problems to solve, good luck 😁
Revert to the basics: The contacts on your battery were dirty. You might try cleaning the battery cable to starter connection. Also make sure that your ground(earth) connections to the engine and the battery negative are good.
Great video what you guys need to do is check your cables at the battery/ batteries and make sure that the alternator clean and no corrosion
Thanks for watching 😊
First thing id check is main engin earth conection and starter motor draw...... good luck guys hope you get it sorted 🙏🙏
Check earthing strap as this seems to be the problem. Also, only be head gasket if you have water in the oil. Take oil cap off and check for a milky residue around the top and cap, if it's black, colour of oil, then its not the gasket.
When you first started having engine trouble before you crossed the Panama canal I was wondering if you would really try to cross the Pacific Ocean without an engine you could count on. So glad to see you are getting it fixed before you try. Better to be safe and enjoy the trip than to worry about it.
Dont want to send your gal into a hysterical breakdown, but you have foolish advisors, the engine is not turning over, its not the fuel its not a head gasket, not a battery its the thing that turns it over, the starter motor, sometimes if the bearing ir worn or lose or the bushing bearing worn or if the pick up brushes are worn it will hit or miss when starting, sometimes hitting it with a hammer will do the job till you get it rebuilt..
Did you watch the video?
Be careful hitting a permanent magnet starter with a hammer, gentle taps are unlikely to break the magnets.
You are guilt of a cardinal diagnostic error - you are making assumptions.
Starter never clicked. Turned over every turn of the key 😅.. Definitely seemed it was just bleeding air from the fuel lines.
Love your adventures and love your life it gives me so much Inspiration in my life. Peace and safety to you respect all the way for cornwall uk ❤
Thank you so much for your kind words! We are glad our adventures inspire you ☺️
Got to love a Monday after work Teula tribe video. Always a pleasure. Many thanks 🙏🏻
Who knew Mondays could be this exciting, right? 😅 Thanks for tuning in after work!
When it is windy like that at anchor or on a mooring run the mizzen up and the breeze will keep you down wind of the hook. Also it makes it a bit more comfortable inside.
Before putting the cables back on the battery terminals, spray it all with Corrosion Guard (by Waterguard USA) or Corrosion-X. This helps keep the green fuzzies away and everything working better longer. Also spritz down the fuse box and other connectors. I spent 37 years working offshore and this stuff is a life saver.
If there's water in the cylinders due to leaking head gasket, the exhaust sould smoke White and smel a bit sweet.
The danger of water on top of the piston is hydro lock.
You could bend a conrod or a valve....
The most relaxing video yet, the music is on point y'all! Welcome to the Pacific 👍 y'all are going to see magic. 👍🇺🇸
Sounds like you need a demulsifier to separate the water and keep it in the primary filter water trap. It can then be drained regularly. Howes makes a really good product and it is inexpensive. Whatever you use, use the higher amount per gallon that is recommended initially. Make sure to keep using the best diesel bug additive that you can find even after you think the issue is over. With closed tanks, it is worth the cost.
Not only do you need to clean the battery posts and cable terminals BUT you also need to smear a thin coat of dielectric grease on the battery posts and cable terminals. This grease seals the connections from oxygen so they will be far less likely to oxidize. Most decent marine or auto parts stores should sell dielectric grease.
Be careful. When large and multiple resort facilities are abandon there is always a reason! Usually a reason that is not good for visitors.
We think that the abandoned buildings were possibly linked to the US withdrawing from Panama. Panama on the whole is a very safe place. Thanks for your concerns 😊
If it’s not a computer controlled motor, use jumpers direct to the starter motor.
You can see the extreme voltage drop at the instrument cluster when you are trying to start.
Feel the 2/0 cables both positive and negative after a start attempt, looking for heat buildup which would indicate a bad cable or connection.
Physically work the cables feeling for a hard point / internal corrosion both positive and negative.
If all that produces no results remove the starter and overhaul / inspect it.
Finally if all that fails turn the motor using a socket feeling for any binding/ do not confuse the normal compression. You can remove the injectors for that test if you want.
Ensure the exhaust smoke if running is normal.
Sounds like electrical problem check connections from battery to your starter, check earth strap to your engine, it could be starter motor often the brushes worn not sure how to test starter but it would be my guess fact you get full cranking intermittently, i dont think it head gasket as once it starts you would see exhuast color or suffer overheating good luck on fixing
Fuel problems do not cause slow cranking or hard cranking. The motor would crank normally but not start. If the battery is good it can only be an electrical connection or starter. Of course hydro lock due to gasket failure could also cause hard cranking. For gasket failure look for milky oil or white smoke in the exhaust indicating water in the exhaust.
Agreed this is the correct diagnosis., Check the oil and bubbling in the cooling circuit if Ok which I suspes then its the connections. and or wiring to the starter and solenoid. you have confirmed the batteries are good. You could also rig a parallel connection to your house battery to boost the feed (if same type of battery) .
If you have a mechanical fuel pump, it's pretty dependent on the engine to turn at a certain speed to supply fuel to the engine. And the battery has to be strong enough to turn it fast enough for that to happen until it starts running on it's own. And it's not just the battery lugs that need to be shiny, the terminals / connectors attached to them and the cables connected to them all need to be clean and corrosion free. With the slowness that you have the engine cranking on video, disassemble and clean everything between the battery and the starter, both positive and negative.
A useful benchmark is to check the voltage right on the battery posts (not the cables) while you are cranking. Voltage above 9.5 points to trouble away from the battery.
It is clear that you have an electrical problem. Likely a bad connection. The fuel issue was a problem yet to come, so it was good to change the filter.
I’m sure by now you know it’s water in the cylinders from removing the anti siphon valve a couple of videos ago. I was thinking noooooo!
So glad I stumbled on this channel ! Lovely couple - cool boat - real life adventure ❤
I love that song you had playing “… little sad eyes , don’t you know ..”
I can’t find it with those lyrics
Great editing and music !
Thank you 🙏
That sounds electrical - Check battery connections - fuel would not stop the engine turning over. Possible Starter ? last issue could be massive increase in compression - i.e. water in cylinder chamber
always carry plenty os sterile eye pods (saline) great for flushing wounds , oh and the person who suggested super glue ! yes it works in a pinch , steri strips / wound closures good to , in an emergency gaffer tape , (really) , as a retired medic I've seen most lol clean and close , keep an eye on it ! sending love Darren.
Good luck with your engine. As others have said, start with all the heavy cables and look for loose or corroded connections. Negative side too. One way to find a bad connection is after attempting to crank for a few times, stop cranking and feel each joint for heat or warmth. Do this carefully so as not to get a burn. If you do find a warm or hot connection, undo it, clean up like a new pin and reconnect checking its tight. Grease or Vaseline around such joints will help keep the corrosion at bay. A spare known good starter motor on a boat is a must really. Sealed in a bag or cling film. Also check the heavy battery leads for any bulges that could be corrosion nodules.
One other thing that could stop it cranking over fast enough is, as your friend said, head gasket letting a little cooling water into the cylinders. This can be indicated by removing the glow plugs if they will come out, then cranking the engine over to see if any liquid (coolant) is squirted out. It’s good practice to periodically remove them when in a marina to make sure you can get them out and they aren’t seized in.
As you have done, start with the easy things first but if it’s having trouble cranking, battery, connections, cables, starter, something putting load on the engine.
You said you changed the impeller, could this have somehow got mangled. Might be worth a check. Also if it was bad then did the engine overheat causing head gasket issues and a little water in the cylinders?
First of your videos I’ve seen. I’ll be watching to see how you get on.
Wow I really look forward to Mondays because your next brilliant video is ready for me to watch, I have a good feeling you guys will sort the engine problem out, love you guys ⛵️⛵️👍👍
Cheers Stuart! Haha I think we will 😅
Your starter will have a brass bushing on the throw out end, which is worn, easy to replace.
The symptom is slow cranking. A fuel or air problem would indeed prevent it from starting, but it wouldn't crank slowly. You've checked the batteries, so it sounds like a poor connection or a starter motor problem like brushes.
PLEASE READ!!!!!!!! You need to hold the start key on (I think it says R or H?) for a few seconds, before switching the key all over to start (all the way to the right) I think that should solve the issue. It is heating or "glowing" the injection rods before starting.
We did this for a long time until we realised that because its so hot where we are, its not necessary
@@TeuluTribe its a diesel, you need to glow the plugs prior to starting, outside temperature has SWFA to do with it
Weak cranking means electrical not fuel or air. Check all connections in cct including the ground connection to engine
Great to see how proud you are of the boat and rightly so guys. 👍😃
She's a great little home!
If you are worried about slipped the anchor I can recommend the books by Lin and Larry Pardey who were cruising legends. I think he carried 4 anchors and would leave his boat for months at a time. I think the book was Sailing Taliesin. I carried two anchors and would often put down a kedge as a bit more peace of mind.
Thanks for the suggestion, we’ll have to give it a read. We have an emergency 20Kg Rocna if something happens to our main one!
You guys kept a cool head and didnt freak out, good job.
I can honestly say i would be pretty freaked out being in such a remote place without an engine.
Props to you guys, i hope everything works out. Cant wait for the next episode.
Safe travels.
After checking connections check the starter motor for heat, this will show it needs servicing or replacing. It can get stuck on and start a fire so be careful.
The engine sounds good, if it was air issues it would run hot or bad idling etc.
Blow by, fuel or liquid hydrolock. Starter doest sound like that but your draw tester might test starter draw.
One tip that could be of use to you guys is, electrical contact grease ! I had trouble with some connections with water ingress on plug connections with the o rings not sealing. After doing that and on other connectors including my on board battery bank, no more problems or corrosion ! Cheers from New Zealand
Theres a chap out there living on a boat he collects sea glass and makes art work and jewelry ... that he sells to part finance his boating life.
Its harder to find these days since plastic bottles took over...
Loved the macro photography on the beach. ..
You will get trees dropping leaves seasonally, or due to a dry season.... Or due to drought.. remember the state of the Canal is a regional/global phenomina
With El ninio and el ninia both originating off the coast of Peru.
Yet another thought: your starter motor doesn't spin that hard . Bad wiring or bad starter motor are also valid causes.
But, as it seems, you got bugs in the diesel...
Every summer I check what diesel I put in. You have little choise finding diesel. The right additives really help my old Penta md2 . Know your engine, and you're a happy sailor I tell my sons.
I don't know about diesel fuel but this ethanol gas is proving to be a big problem. I only use ethanol free, high octane fuel now for my outboards.
Having replaced more than one starter - the definitely can go bad. The slow crank has nothing to do with fuel or air. If your batteries are good that leaves two items:
1) internal engine resistance
2) the starter
Given the way the engine started I would suspect the starter.
@@AbNomal621 yeah, combined with diesel bug that might be a nasty cocktail.
I run a purely mechanical Volvo Penta md2 which can be hand started if all else failed. But, it might be comfortable ro install a second fuel filter in the line to be able to switch between the two. Everyone's milage will vary ofcourse.
My Bosch Dynastart is a real old revised thingy. It starts slow, and charges even slower, but when the belts are good, the diesel clean and regularly treated it fits the job it s supposed to do.
Altogether, when you know your electrical setup and motor maintenance basics inside out... Sailing is more fun.
Hi, England calling, having been involved with Boats for over 40yrs, can I suggest the following;
Change Fuel filters (ALL), and have the Starter motor checked out. I'd also have the fuel tanks checked for Water & finally Keep going
Lovely. Fingers crossed on the bug. We had it and it was everywhere in the fuel line. I hope the fire pits were provided. Nothing worse than leaving fire mess on a white beach.
Hey fuel will not cause the engine to crank over slowly. It’s gonna be either a loose wire or a dead battery.
Feel the starter cable see if its hot? Look for a white/green powdery coating. Clean it off then tighten the cable to the starter so it has good contact. Seems the reason it turns over slowly is corrosion on terminal. Check air filter intake too then fuel sediment bowl for any water or contaminated fuel. Good fuel should be clear with no cloudiness. Try bleeding the fuel if air is in the line.
If your engine is a Diesel Turn the Key to on , wait for the tone stop, before cranking the engine , Let the Glow plugs warm up before cranking.
We had a Volvo diesel stop functioning on a 64' Show. Water in the diesel was the reason, probably included with the diesel when we filled her up in the meditaranean. Result was a complete engine change....
Put some grease on electrical connections - it protects from moisture and air so they wont rust. You can put grease on pretty much anything, really. On nuts and bolts for example. A simple trick that works wonders. There are special products available, but normal mechanical grease works fine, too.
The motor problem sounds like a bad starter to me. Be very careful about cranking for too long without giving it a rest, or you could burn it completely out! (even if that isn't the actual problem)
Sound more like you have a poor joint somewhere between starter motor and battery as the crank speed keeps varying. There could be fuel and air problems as well but first get the crank speed up which will help. Dirty fuel will just make the problem worse for starting but even so the crank speed is way too slow and variable at times.
Ouch!
Get yourself some Betadine swabs and some chlohexadine sachets for your first aid kit, ( wound and skin cleaning ) it’s what we use in A and E, most chemists around the world have then. Have a selection of Steristrips in your kit to hold the skin together is you get deep cuts, also medical glue, all good stuff.
Engine doesn’t sound like it’s turning over, starter is struggling.. dodgy brushes on the starter…
If you keep cranking the engine and it does not start you will have water backing up into the exhaust. So shut of the water intake and if it start you can open the water intake again.
Be sure your battery cables are atleast 2/0 cables to the starter, both the minus and the plus cable all the way to the battery and check the terminals and be sure the all fittings are tight including those on the starter.
Your choice of music is absolutely perfect. It sends me to where you are (instead of being here in disgusting Chertsey, Surrey)
Thank you for taking the time to make this vlog 😊....nice...and loving this extended one
Damn engine, freaking me out and I'm on land. Hope you manage to make it reliable soon guys. All the best ❤
I am not convinced it is the head gasket! Normally when they go that is it on a diesel, simply won't start. I had that on my previous yacht. The slow cranking in the beginning points to an electrical/starter/solenoid issue. Good luck!
Love your videos!
Love seeing how Zach calms ya down hon, you are a beautiful couple.
Common as rain, contaminated fuel. I'd check the starter, your batteries looked good but it sounds like a bare spot on the starter. Superior editing, sound and cinematography. Your fast becoming our #1 sailing channel, loved how each sequence blended so nicely throughout. Your efforts are really paying off. Best with your cut Becka's foot, do you carry tetanus syringe aboard? Praying for a safe passage and that engine problem is not major.
Water getting into the cylinders makes for a labored start. Could bend a rod. Eeek.
You are so right.
Great video Guy’s, beautifully Edited. Becca really hope your foot is healing looked a nasty cut.
Engine look for a funky oil filler cap if water is getting into the oil it looks like Mayonnaise.
Bad head gasket doesn’t make starting hard just loss of power for a boat white smoke. I would go through electrical first check Negative grounds are on clean surfaces, starter and Battery terminals. Give surfaces some coarse sand paper.
Hope gets sorted cheaply. All the very best to you both from us in the Southwest 🇬🇧Take care
Thankfully it's totally healed now 😊 Thanks for the detailed advice! We’ll give it a look.
@@TeuluTribe Really pleased your all healed we love seeing your Travels and can’t wait to see all the fantastic places you’re going to visit.
Brother Owns a large Garage in the Bay & Sons a Vehicle Technician in the same place so unfortunately I learned an awful Lot over the years, all my boats have had big outboards but our T5 is Diesel.
Drifting towards a jagged shoal in a storm while being far from home is my definition of an "inopportune moment". Clean electrical connections is "low hanging fruit" and should be done while in a safe harbor before departing. I don't sail but I do motor in the 30,000 Islands (60,000 hazards) so having a "kicker motor" is a must. It sure takes the stress off my mind allowing me to focus on the hazards ahead.
A friend of mine had mounted a 10hp Honda on his 38ft sailboat and we used it to power us back from Giants Tomb Island to Penetanguishine Ontario. Learning how to use old school charts and magnetic compass is also a good idea.
You should also check the furl tank ,I would drain it or if u can shine a torch in the tank and see if u have any rubbish ,even if u sifen some out with a piece ov hose make sure the hose hits the bottom ov the tank
I had an old tracker doing the same thing. it was very hard to find the starter, so off it came. What I found after splitting the case was very corroded brushes. after I got them hot trying to start it, the starter would work. After a good cleaning the starter worked fine.
It is a starter issue which is preventing the engine from turning over. Fuel troubles will allow the engine to turn over, but it will not fire.
Thanks for an awesome video again. Hope engine is sorted.
sounds like youre not getting full current to the starter. look at all the cable connection points between the starter and the battery. The must be corrosion free. Battery terminal antioxide paste will keep them clean for a long time. These two cables should be large 4 gauge multi stranded silicone wires. Bigger is better when you deliver current to a starter on a low voltage system.
Becareful with that barefoot traveling in Latin America. Bushmasters, Eyelash vipers, Fer de lance, and many other necrotizing viper bites can happen so easily around that area. Thousands of people annually are treated for bites in C.R. Panama, Columbia and Brazil. Careful, careful.
That was really scary- I felt for you both! When the engine is finicky it gets scary. Glad it started and hoping it is fixed well soon for you. In my thoughts ❤
Starter motor or electrical connection problem, if headgasket gone with water in the cylinders it would smoke like hell once started
My boat sat for 6 years full of fuel. It had no moisture whatsoever but a bad case of microbes.
We treated the fuel for microbes but they die and turn into that black stuff that plugs everything up. I had to pump out the fuel (50 gallons) and polished and stored it in Jerry cans. All my friends loaned me some. Then I cut holes through each baffle space and took a paint scraper and cleaned them out yuck. I smelled like diesel for 3 days. So when 8 boats from our club went on a blue water cruise/sail, 5 out of the 8 boats had the milkshake blues when it got rough. E were fine