Just a hint, NEVER set your welding ground to a shaft that is going through a bearing, it’s a sure way to start the failure of that bearing. Just sayin!!!
As a small engine mechanic of 40 years I have to say nice work.Recently found your channel and enjoyed seeing quality repairs and troubleshooting. I did pickup on some ideas of doing things different, I guess knowledge can be shared regardless of age.
You made a great repair video here. You didn't use any small talk and you kept it moving at a good pace. Mower decks always rust out, replacement decks are expensive and so are people who weld. You made it so easy to understand that I think I could do this myself. Thank you for the post.
I just finished mine up about a week ago. Didn't have rust holes but it had surface rust forming for a few years so i cleaned it up and painted it. Good to go........thanks for your post.
This was one of your best uploads dw6. I've been facing this same repair on my Skag 48" deck and have never seen or considered the "sinking in" method...brilliant and inspiring! Many thanks
Try not to ground on a metal post with a bearing. The arc you were creating with your stinger is also being reproduced within the bearing. Watch the sparks on your very first.
I love the "sinking in" method. Some of the auto-body wizards use this method. It's quick and gives the best fit, but also you can hammer and bend the patch before you weld to get the shape just right. This is more critical with thinner metal. Nice video, thanks.
Looks great! Just picked up a scag with rust holes in the deck. I plated the top area most of the center section with all the hardware. then fiber glassed the bottom area to keep the moisture and grass out.
Awesome! I have a 19 year old Craftsman that is still going strong. Could use a new muffler, but they seem to go for around 200 bucks. I just wear ear protection.
Good job on the repair. Thats why its important to keep the deck clean underneath all the grass holds the moisture in and you see the result. I agree the older vanguard engines are much better than these newer inteks are. hope this video can help someone else Bob.
You did an awesome job. I do not weld and don't want to. I have a Troybilt 33" mower deck that needs holes filled. My friend recommended someone he knows that likes to weld and is good at it. You just convinced me to take this deck to him and let him go to town on it. Its a nice mower, it just needs a bit of TLC.
Now all you need is to put some Agri Guard coating on the deck bottom. It's the best thing I ever found ad far as sealing right over tightly adhered rust. Even battery acid and fertilizer will not faze it Farmers swear by it
Nice repair. I would like to make one suggestion on your welding . Never place your work lead meaning ground through a bearing. Always place it in the closest and direct contact with the part you are welding.
Your awesome!!!!... Got to the same for my mower deck!!!!... Great job!!!!... Never seen this procedure done before!!!!. Thank you for the wonderful video!!!
Genius idea to sink the patch...never seen that before...watched a lot of deck patching videos and this was the best, at first I thought it was just another video tacking a plate over the hole which would allow the problem to continue to worsen...I'm going to use your method to fix my Deere 455 deck with some holes in it...I've been putting off the project because I thought cutting the patches was going to be difficult with all the bends and angles....this makes that easier
Nice repair, came out great 👍 I've done a few patch jobs over the top like that and they held up great. Never thought of sinking them down though I'll give that a shot next time. Gives a much better finished product.
Fantastic fix. I am not a welder so why do the tack method instead of straight weld? Less heat and less possibility of warping? If you don't have a mower this one would be a good one to keep I would think. Thanks for the great video. Stay safe.
kool good job ... if you have a couple very small holes and lite grind around them and do not have a welder is there any good filler that might work for a while or ... †
I'm not understanding the reason for tacking, then cutting back off and re tacking... You called it sinking in. Did you cut the weld only or completely through the deck?
Came out nice. What did you do with the rotted out sections from underneath as you did not cut them out. Just bang them back flat. Did you use any undercoating on the underside.
it actually cuts it out as he cuts on the 45 degree angle ( except for that end piece in this case ) so when your done it should just fall out , the reason for cutting on a 45 is so your gap is tighter when butt welding it , less chance of burn threw
Nice repair. I recognized it was a Simplicity deck before you showed your tractor. I have a 94 Landlord with a 16 Vanguard twin hydro and 44" deck. Love it! It's all steel, no plastic hood like Deere. Only rust is a small pinhole in the deck where the water collects. You've inspired me to fix it. What gauge metal and wire were you using? Cheers.
before re-installing the deck, be sure to undercoat the deck, with something that converts rust to an inert material, so the deck does not rust out again
I'm just curious wouldn't the new metal plate harbor wet grass and moisture therefore causing the existing rust to accelerate underneath the new metal plate therefor causing the rusty hole problem all over again. Or is there a treatment that would stop the existing rust ?
I HAD to watch, I`m working on a Craftsman/Simplicity ZT1850 as the number implies, is a 50 inch deck. As it turned out?, THIS thing (in damage comparison) is something like 400% WORSE rotted/corroded condition. I AM/was (now disabled/retired) Iron worker, Pipe Fitter, Pipe Welder, Millwright and a trash picker-upper. I started repairing mowers pretty much as a hobby type way t add to my monthly Disability check and since I was just playing around and not really pressured for time?, I always went the extra mile for my customer. WISH I had thought of filming my work for RUclips but just never spared the expense to do it. Kind of late in the game, but may STILL do it. Anyway, the "Hobby" turned into VERY steady work for me. Wish I could put pictures up here in the "Comment" section to show you just WHAT I`ve been faced with on THIS deck. Turns out that the WHOLE area under all three blades was rotted COMPLETELY out and wouldn't even support the pulley`s/spindles anymore so Yeah, HAD to do a whole NEW plate for the whole thing. I`m pretty FAR into it and the MATH involved in getting ALL the holes in the right places IS a chore. I haven't "Sunk" it YET but WILL and then flip it to cut the OLD stuff off/out of the way. But I FIRST have to make SURE the blades AND the pulley`s on top LINE up precisely so the belt doesn't fly off and the blades cut even. I THINK factory metal thickness is/was only a 16-gauge but I`ve put in a 1/8 th. plate in to replace it with and probably it WILL last WAY beyond the mowers lifetime. Anyway, STILL working on it. Wished it as simple as the one YOU did but I`m looking at a $600+ job here. A NEW deck (Shell ONLY) for this is at $1,700.00 THEN all the OTHER stuff has to be added in to THAT price, which is WHY I GOT the job to rebuilt THIS old one. Used CAN be purchased off Ebay BUT, you STILL can`t tell it`s TRUE condition by a "Picture" and WOULD HAVE to replace the spindles and pulleys, and I DID look up the spindles as a whole piece PLUS the rebuild kits FOR them---The spindles (whole assembly) is at $179 EACH ! WoW!!!, so I opted for JUST the bearings and the outer shells. STILL working on it.
I am not sure if this has been answered or asked for that matter, however what i am trying to figure out is why didn't you just cut the deck out after tracing the piece onto it and then tacking the corners flush; then follow up on filling it in with a full weld then grind it all flush. Not trying to be an ass or anything, just trying to figure out your method because yours just seemed like more work than what it needed to be. Good video none the less.
It is a nice repair but I think you destroyed the pulley bearing when you grounded to it. You will see the arc which may have destroyed one of the bearings.
What about the bent up rusted metal you pounded down toward the underside of the deck? Won't that collect debri? I think I would have cut it out once I had the replacement piece ready. Just my 2 cents.
Why would you not cut out the rust Before welding on new plate? Now you have a nice new piece of metal welded over old rust that will continue to rust.
I am very familiar with all kinds of welding and wood working and machinery being my dad owned and operated a towing and recovery company my entire life and raced dirt ump late models so my sister and I had no sympathy on us as girls but it’s been awhile and I just need directions and encouragement please please please
He cut all the way through at a 45 degree angle. Pushed it down flush tacked down all around because it is thin. That patch is obviously a little thicker than the deck material so the piece underneath should all but fall right out. Sure he had to grind s little out.
This strategy was very confusing for me. You need more welding study time, IMO as an amateur with maybe 500hrs welding. You didn't need to cut in a 45 degree angle if your welder gets hot enough to melt the corners down, it's not 1/2in thick metal. I have no doubt your fix there will last the life of that old machine but if it had more life/hours left then it'd have been better to cut out all that rust section & not trap the old rust under your new plate. If you're burning through then turn it down & use longer horse-shoe welding pattern & play more with the welding angle. Keep it up though as eventually your welding skill should get good enough to not require any finish-grinding & you'll feel confident in displaying your welds to the point of not wanting to grind them smooth.
I cut the 45 degree angle to sink the metal or even it out. The old rusty metal I cut away from underneath just about all of it. Put some rust bullet paint on the fresh metal underneath. If I wanted to just weld the top and not grind it I could have.
you cut on a 45 so your gap is tighter when they are "sunk " together , important when butt welding thin rusty / thin sheetmetal , less chance of burn threw
This is not a fix .. the rusted area should be cut out and replaced with new steel.. this patch will make it deck look better but grass and moisture will be trapped under the patch and this will happen again. Cut out rusted metal and cut to fit new steel plate and weld in for a proper repair.
lol , I don't think you understand , it actually cuts it out as he cuts on the 45 degree angle ( except for that end piece in this case as he could not cut it from top , he would have to get that side form bottom ) so when your done it will just fall out , the reason for cutting on a 45 is so your gap is tighter when butt welding it , less chance of burn threw
So many things wrong with this video 😂 please do not do this First off you need to cut out all that rust. Rust is like a cancer. It spreads. Where you marked to sand off the paint should have all been taken out with a cutting wheel. Second there was a lot of unnecessary tacking and grinding going on. Fit your pice and WELD it. Not tack it 30000 times. Not that hard. Third. Never ground to a bearing. If it arks inside that Bearing is done for. Overall just poor craftsmanship all throughout. Cant expect that much from someone welding in sports shorts and a short sleeve shirt I suppose.
lol you don't understand , the old metal will be gone when finished from cutting the 45 all the way around , there is nothing wrong with this video lol
did you figure it out yet lol ? or still thinking about it lol you are brain dead , you should appogiise to the OP , the only questionable thing was grounding to the spindle , nothing wrong with the rest of it , You couldn't even figure out he was cutting out the old metal as he went lol
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Just a hint, NEVER set your welding ground to a shaft that is going through a bearing, it’s a sure way to start the failure of that bearing. Just sayin!!!
I was thinking the same thing. I'm sure I would have found a better way than that but it's not mine. Perhaps he's changing the spindles anyway?
I believe he appreciates the constructive reply and the reasoning behind it
I was just getting ready to comment that. It also doesn't give a good conductivity so the weld is going to be weaker.
As a small engine mechanic of 40 years I have to say nice work.Recently found your channel and enjoyed seeing quality repairs and troubleshooting. I did pickup on some ideas of doing things different, I guess knowledge can be shared regardless of age.
You made a great repair video here. You didn't use any small talk and you kept it moving at a good pace. Mower decks always rust out, replacement decks are expensive and so are people who weld. You made it so easy to understand that I think I could do this myself. Thank you for the post.
I just finished mine up about a week ago. Didn't have rust holes but it had surface rust forming for a few years so i cleaned it up and painted it. Good to go........thanks for your post.
Right on
This was one of your best uploads dw6. I've been facing this same repair on my Skag 48" deck and have never seen or considered the "sinking in" method...brilliant and inspiring! Many thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Try not to ground on a metal post with a bearing. The arc you were creating with your stinger is also being reproduced within the bearing. Watch the sparks on your very first.
exactly it can weld the bearing to the race or atleast marr it
Thanks I didn't know that.
Outstanding work, you inspire others to be their best!
Thank you! Cheers!
You are a man of diverse talents!!! You feed my hungry mind more than you know!! Keep up the good work double wide six!!!
I love the "sinking in" method. Some of the auto-body wizards use this method. It's quick and gives the best fit, but also you can hammer and bend the patch before you weld to get the shape just right. This is more critical with thinner metal.
Nice video, thanks.
Looks great! Just picked up a scag with rust holes in the deck. I plated the top area most of the center section with all the hardware. then fiber glassed the bottom area to keep the moisture and grass out.
Awesome! I have a 19 year old Craftsman that is still going strong. Could use a new muffler, but they seem to go for around 200 bucks. I just wear ear protection.
Nice job... I like your method of tack-welding all around to avoid burning through... Thanks for sharing
No problem 👍
Good job on the repair. Thats why its important to keep the deck clean underneath all the grass holds the moisture in and you see the result. I agree the older vanguard engines are much better than these newer inteks are. hope this video can help someone else Bob.
Very true!
My prayers are still on for your son ---Amen.
Thank you we hit 3 years off treatment yesterday. It is on my mind EVERY day.
You did an awesome job. I do not weld and don't want to. I have a Troybilt 33" mower deck that needs holes filled. My friend recommended someone he knows that likes to weld and is good at it. You just convinced me to take this deck to him and let him go to town on it. Its a nice mower, it just needs a bit of TLC.
Now all you need is to put some Agri Guard coating on the deck bottom. It's the best thing I ever found ad far as sealing right over tightly adhered rust. Even battery acid and fertilizer will not faze it Farmers swear by it
Thanks for the info!
Nice repair. I would like to make one suggestion on your welding . Never place your work lead meaning ground through a bearing. Always place it in the closest and direct contact with the part you are welding.
Your awesome!!!!... Got to the same for my mower deck!!!!... Great job!!!!... Never seen this procedure done before!!!!. Thank you for the wonderful video!!!
Genius idea to sink the patch...never seen that before...watched a lot of deck patching videos and this was the best, at first I thought it was just another video tacking a plate over the hole which would allow the problem to continue to worsen...I'm going to use your method to fix my Deere 455 deck with some holes in it...I've been putting off the project because I thought cutting the patches was going to be difficult with all the bends and angles....this makes that easier
I'm getting ready to work on this type repair. Your method will be very helpful to me in restoring the deck. Thanks for the fun. :-)
Glad to help
Great job! Thanks for educating me. I have to repair a deck for a friend and will use your technique.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, I appreciate you showing this as I need to fix mine and am a new welder. Good camera work and you did a very good job explaining. Nice work.
What do you do with the old rusty metal that you pounded down in?won't it catch and hold grass?make hard to scrape out?
Nice repair, came out great 👍 I've done a few patch jobs over the top like that and they held up great. Never thought of sinking them down though I'll give that a shot next time. Gives a much better finished product.
That is the idea. The next day I cut out the old rust and touched up with some rust bullet paint.
Fantastic fix. I am not a welder so why do the tack method instead of straight weld? Less heat and less possibility of warping? If you don't have a mower this one would be a good one to keep I would think. Thanks for the great video. Stay safe.
tacking because I am using higher heat for good penetration. If I keep welding the metal could warp and I will melt through.
Cool technique. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for watching!
kool good job ... if you have a couple very small holes and lite grind around them and do not have a welder is there any good filler that might work for a while or ... †
Bondo with fiberglass
Great job! I am going to attempt the same on my tractor this summer. Take care and stay safe.
Well done. Save at least $250 for a new deck. Great work!
Yes! Thank you!
Does the ragged old metal fall off when the new plate is sunk in?
Add a wash out port newer decks have this feature works terrific
Not a big fan of adding water to the spindles.
Awesome video
Nice job , Way Better than it needed to be,👍
Wow, thanks!
Solid repair! Is it hard to learn how to spot weld? What equipment would I need? Thanks.
How did you figure out your weld setting so as not to burn through the deck
I'm not understanding the reason for tacking, then cutting back off and re tacking... You called it sinking in. Did you cut the weld only or completely through the deck?
completely through.
he tacked it to just hold it in place. this was pretty simple and clear of a job. helpful video man
good job , but I don't think grounding threw yer spindle bearings are gone do them any good tho if any arcing in there
Great work ! I hadn't seen this done before.
Thanks!
Great job! Keep up with the killer videos ,I think your channel the best.
Thank you that is a great compliment.
What kind of welder is that. Would it be good for a novice? Thanks
how long did the bearings last?
Super nice job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Good job! Gave me confidence to try it.
By grounding to a pulley shaft, you may have caused damage to your bearings when you struck an arc.
Good job on the deck!
Thank you 🤗
Nice job 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video. My husband has another honey-do
Great job.
Came out nice. What did you do with the rotted out sections from underneath as you did not cut them out. Just bang them back flat. Did you use any undercoating on the underside.
I did end up cutting just about all if it out. I had some rust bullet paint that I put on the patched areas.
it actually cuts it out as he cuts on the 45 degree angle ( except for that end piece in this case ) so when your done it should just fall out , the reason for cutting on a 45 is so your gap is tighter when butt welding it , less chance of burn threw
Never thought of sinking it. Nice tip!!
Great video and great job. I need that on my mower deck. Thank you
Nice repair. I recognized it was a Simplicity deck before you showed your tractor. I have a 94 Landlord with a 16 Vanguard twin hydro and 44" deck. Love it! It's all steel, no plastic hood like Deere. Only rust is a small pinhole in the deck where the water collects. You've inspired me to fix it. What gauge metal and wire were you using? Cheers.
Very informative info and technics. Will be attempting my own repair. Keep up the Great videos
Glad to help
before re-installing the deck, be sure to undercoat the deck, with something that converts rust to an inert material, so the deck does not rust out again
Good tip.
Looks great. Good solid fix.👍👍
Thanks 👍
Thank you people for making videos. I don't see the videos by the (expert) "karen" commenters.😮
Awesome job brother thanks for the video
Looks good
You are grounding through your center spindle bearings, hope you plan to replace them due to potential arcing.
Great video!
What type of metal do I need
Great vid! Got any pictures of the underneath side of the deck?
Sorry, no
As many decks I've fixed, I got tired and bought a new one. Once they rust through, the next year or two, new holes appear.
Do you have a video on sharpening lawnmower blades....properly?
I'm just curious wouldn't the new metal plate harbor wet grass and moisture therefore causing the existing rust to accelerate underneath the new metal plate therefor causing the rusty hole problem all over again. Or is there a treatment that would stop the existing rust ?
Yes, should have cut out the rusted material first...
@@brendayoung4347 he's cutting the old metal out as he goes along and sinks new piece in all at the same magical time , are you not seeing this ?
Great job!!
I HAD to watch, I`m working on a Craftsman/Simplicity ZT1850 as the number implies, is a 50 inch deck. As it turned out?, THIS thing (in damage comparison) is something like 400% WORSE rotted/corroded condition. I AM/was (now disabled/retired) Iron worker, Pipe Fitter, Pipe Welder, Millwright and a trash picker-upper. I started repairing mowers pretty much as a hobby type way t add to my monthly Disability check and since I was just playing around and not really pressured for time?, I always went the extra mile for my customer. WISH I had thought of filming my work for RUclips but just never spared the expense to do it. Kind of late in the game, but may STILL do it. Anyway, the "Hobby" turned into VERY steady work for me. Wish I could put pictures up here in the "Comment" section to show you just WHAT I`ve been faced with on THIS deck. Turns out that the WHOLE area under all three blades was rotted COMPLETELY out and wouldn't even support the pulley`s/spindles anymore so Yeah, HAD to do a whole NEW plate for the whole thing. I`m pretty FAR into it and the MATH involved in getting ALL the holes in the right places IS a chore. I haven't "Sunk" it YET but WILL and then flip it to cut the OLD stuff off/out of the way. But I FIRST have to make SURE the blades AND the pulley`s on top LINE up precisely so the belt doesn't fly off and the blades cut even. I THINK factory metal thickness is/was only a 16-gauge but I`ve put in a 1/8 th. plate in to replace it with and probably it WILL last WAY beyond the mowers lifetime. Anyway, STILL working on it. Wished it as simple as the one YOU did but I`m looking at a $600+ job here. A NEW deck (Shell ONLY) for this is at $1,700.00 THEN all the OTHER stuff has to be added in to THAT price, which is WHY I GOT the job to rebuilt THIS old one. Used CAN be purchased off Ebay BUT, you STILL can`t tell it`s TRUE condition by a "Picture" and WOULD HAVE to replace the spindles and pulleys, and I DID look up the spindles as a whole piece PLUS the rebuild kits FOR them---The spindles (whole assembly) is at $179 EACH ! WoW!!!, so I opted for JUST the bearings and the outer shells. STILL working on it.
Sound like a work of love. You should start filming your work.
Thanks!!
I am not sure if this has been answered or asked for that matter, however what i am trying to figure out is why didn't you just cut the deck out after tracing the piece onto it and then tacking the corners flush; then follow up on filling it in with a full weld then grind it all flush.
Not trying to be an ass or anything, just trying to figure out your method because yours just seemed like more work than what it needed to be.
Good video none the less.
It is a nice repair but I think you destroyed the pulley bearing when you grounded to it. You will see the arc which may have destroyed one of the bearings.
What about the bent up rusted metal you pounded down toward the underside of the deck? Won't that collect debri? I think I would have cut it out once I had the replacement piece ready. Just my 2 cents.
I flipped it over and cut away most of it away and tacked a few spots with weld from underneath.
@@doublewide6 dang man a lot of people on you. guys this guy did a great job clearly not everything he did is in the video
Why would you not cut out the rust Before welding on new plate? Now you have a nice new piece of metal welded over old rust that will continue to rust.
I am very familiar with all kinds of welding and wood working and machinery being my dad owned and operated a towing and recovery company my entire life and raced dirt ump late models so my sister and I had no sympathy on us as girls but it’s been awhile and I just need directions and encouragement please please please
Can i do a repair like this with a flux core welder ?
Yes.
yes, have fun.
why are you grounding through the deck bearing ?
continuity with out grinding more paint.
When I patched over holes I then spread jb weld in the holes to make a smooth surface.
That will work fine.
Never ground your welder thru your bearing!!
Great job! You've added YEARS to that deck. Did have to be perfect, just cut some grass
that is exactly why you NEVER buy a stamped deck....always a welded steel deck
Most Residential mowers in the $3000 range are new fabricated decks.
Did you just leave the old metal underneath?
Off camera cut and removed. touch up with rust bullet paint that I had sitting on the shelf.
He cut all the way through at a 45 degree angle. Pushed it down flush tacked down all around because it is thin. That patch is obviously a little thicker than the deck material so the piece underneath should all but fall right out. Sure he had to grind s little out.
ALWAYS CUT THE RUSTED METAL OUT OR YOU'LL BE BACK HERE IN A COUPLE YEARS.
This strategy was very confusing for me. You need more welding study time, IMO as an amateur with maybe 500hrs welding. You didn't need to cut in a 45 degree angle if your welder gets hot enough to melt the corners down, it's not 1/2in thick metal. I have no doubt your fix there will last the life of that old machine but if it had more life/hours left then it'd have been better to cut out all that rust section & not trap the old rust under your new plate. If you're burning through then turn it down & use longer horse-shoe welding pattern & play more with the welding angle. Keep it up though as eventually your welding skill should get good enough to not require any finish-grinding & you'll feel confident in displaying your welds to the point of not wanting to grind them smooth.
there was no need to cut or as he called it sink it
i have 20 years welding experience
I cut the 45 degree angle to sink the metal or even it out. The old rusty metal I cut away from underneath just about all of it. Put some rust bullet paint on the fresh metal underneath. If I wanted to just weld the top and not grind it I could have.
STFU.
you cut on a 45 so your gap is tighter when they are "sunk " together , important when butt welding thin rusty / thin sheetmetal , less chance of burn threw
The ground location and half assed grinding are cringe worthy
Whole video is cringe worthy
First mistake, you didn't cut out the rot. Now it's going to spread to the rest of the deck, so everything you just did was a waste of time🤣
lol the rusty old piece will just fall out , what don't you understand
Next time cut the bad metal out, you are only covering up the problem, not actually fixing it
you don't understand , the old metal will be gone when finished from cutting the 45 all the way around
Bye bye spindle bearings
This is not a fix .. the rusted area should be cut out and replaced with new steel.. this patch will make it deck look better but grass and moisture will be trapped under the patch and this will happen again. Cut out rusted metal and cut to fit new steel plate and weld in for a proper repair.
I did cut away just about all the old rust just didn't show on video.
lol , I don't think you understand , it actually cuts it out as he cuts on the 45 degree angle ( except for that end piece in this case as he could not cut it from top , he would have to get that side form bottom ) so when your done it will just fall out , the reason for cutting on a 45 is so your gap is tighter when butt welding it , less chance of burn threw
So many things wrong with this video 😂 please do not do this
First off you need to cut out all that rust. Rust is like a cancer. It spreads. Where you marked to sand off the paint should have all been taken out with a cutting wheel.
Second there was a lot of unnecessary tacking and grinding going on. Fit your pice and WELD it. Not tack it 30000 times. Not that hard.
Third. Never ground to a bearing. If it arks inside that Bearing is done for.
Overall just poor craftsmanship all throughout. Cant expect that much from someone welding in sports shorts and a short sleeve shirt I suppose.
lol you don't understand , the old metal will be gone when finished from cutting the 45 all the way around , there is nothing wrong with this video lol
did you figure it out yet lol ? or still thinking about it lol you are brain dead , you should appogiise to the OP , the only questionable thing was grounding to the spindle , nothing wrong with the rest of it , You couldn't even figure out he was cutting out the old metal as he went lol
a grinder you are a welder you aint
STFU
Mig is cheating