Although there are no verbal instructions, I'm glad this video was posted since its the only one which shows how to replace the backwash rotor valve on older Purex DE filters. My Purex 2000 is 20 years old but still working great. However, my filter's backwash line recently developed a slow leak and now I know how to replace the seals. Thanks. Also, thanks to David Brooks for suggesting the use of a 2x4 to push up on the valve.....great idea.
One more thing: In your video, you use a pair of channel-locks (water pump pliers) to remove the valve by pulling up - I found that placing a 2x4 under the valve (lifting the base ever so slightly) and pressing down on the lower half of the tank pops the valve up nicely, without any risk of damaging the valve (I'm just replacing the $10 seal). Again, thank you for the video! -Dave
Thank you for this video. My valve was really wedged in there, so I added a little cooking oil around the edges and the twisted it to get slick it up. I popped right out
Well, it was helpful - thank you. I wasn't sure how to remove the tapered valve; now I know. A little constructive insight - since it's an instructional video, the music wasn't necessary. Verbal discussion would have made it awesome. Thank you again for the video and effort. -Dave
Thank you for this video. Just completed the job today for my first time. Had trouble with getting out the valve itself. What I did was pry it up from the bottom and pulling it up from the top. Other problem was lining the backwash handle with the screw hole because the valve didn’t want to go all the way down, I have to take it out and reset it a couple times before it sat properly. Used a ton of lube to make sure it does t get stuck. Saved me some $$$ but it took me about 3-4 hours with breaks.
thank you sir...i needed to know how to replace the bottom monfold and your video helped set me on the right track..job done.filter working like new. Trick: had to grind small opposing flats on the center rod so I can grab it with a wrench
That arm won't come off is there a trick??? I remove that bolt and it will not come off the valve. I'm at a point i have to cut it off somehow. I used a pitman arm pully removal tool and it just won't budge like its welded on.
Thanks I see you unscrewing the center rod. I bought a replacement and it won't screw into the bottom rotor and I can't tell which way your center rod is installed because of video quality on my system. I tried screwing it in but it won't stay. Does this mean the manifold needs to be replaced?
Hi Michael! Thank you for comment! The center rod is threaded into the rotor valve in the bottom of the filter tank. If you are threading it in and it will not stay put, then it is most-likely stripped inside of the rotor valve. The rotor-valve threaded insert is brass and the center-rod is stainless steel, so if it is stripped and not threading properly, then it is usually the brass in the rotor valve that has become damaged. These are very difficult and becoming more expensive, so it may be worth it to start looking into a new filter. Hope this helps! Thank you for choosing Pool Guy Supply!
There is a 7/16" SS Bolt with a Nut that connects the handle to the shaft coming out the bottom, this will need to be removed before the arm will be able to be removed. If you have done this and the arm still refuses to come off, you may just be dealing with brass on brass corrosion at this point. If you absolutely need to remove the arm you can always cut the filter out of the plumbing and flip the filter over to gain better access to the bottom and possibly gain more leverage. Unfortunately that option will require you to re-plum the filter back in after your repairs are made.
Pool guy is right. Cut the pipes to the tank, then take the tank out and torn ut over. Spray the area where the handle is attached to the tapered pin with PB Blaster and let it sit awhile. Then apply a little upload (away from the tank) to the handle and tap it lightly on it's side. It should pop off. If not add a little heat on the handle on the side and apply the upload and tapping again If it still doesn't budge start all over again with the PB Blaster. The idea of the PB Blaster is to break the corrosion down to allow it to release. The tapping on the side is to get the blaster into the joint and the heat is used to expand the hole in the handle to make it a little larger than the tapered pin so don't heat it too long you want the handle hole to be bigger than the pin so you need the handle to be a higher temperature than the pin. If you hold the heat on too long and bring them both (handle and Pin) to the same temperature all you have done is increase the entropy of the universe. If all else fails get yourself a small gear puller and put it on and tighten it down and start the whole PB Blaster approach again.
@@PoolGuySupply I have this corrosion problem the arm won't budge. I may have to either drill through it or cut the arm off. even a pully removal tool will not budge it
@@maxheadroom1506 Unfortunately we do not have any further recommendations past what has already been suggested in the previous comments. You will first need to remove the 7/16" SS Bolt/Nut that connects to the handle of the shaft coming out the bottom to remove the arm. If you still have issues, proceed to cut the filter out of the plumbing, and take Hans Hansf's PB Blaster approach to break down the corrosion. Sorry about this problem you're facing, it is not uncommon with these tanks. Hope this helps!
@@hanshansf5373 I tried gear puller I had to put a steel nut because i was running out of room that nut flattened itself and the arm still did not budge. I'm contemplating drilling through the brass to get the handle off. That handle is expensive and i already puchased a new mechanism with new seals.
my DE tank looses its prime with in a couple hours.i put a new O-ring on the tank, but didn't solve the prime problem.any help would be many thanks. carl
That arm won't come off is there a trick??? I remove that bolt and it will not come off the valve. I'm at a point i have to cut it off somehow. I used a pitman arm pully removal tool and it just won't budge like its welded on.
Hi Max, I will include this response here also just to try and make sure you receive it (I also included it in a response to your reply in a previous question, sorry to just copy/paste!). Unfortunately we do not have any further recommendations past what has already been suggested in the previous comments. You will first need to remove the 7/16" SS Bolt/Nut that connects to the handle of the shaft coming out the bottom to remove the arm. If you still have issues, proceed to cut the filter out of the plumbing, and take Hans Hansf's PB Blaster approach to break down the corrosion. Sorry about this problem you're facing, it is not uncommon with these tanks. Hope this helps!
@@PoolGuySupply Update. I drilled out the brass and was able to break off the arm and remove the valve. I then took the broken arm and was able to pound out the leftovers of the brass inside the arm by alternating directions. After the arm was free of debris I sanded the internal and was able to reinstall everything. It is crazy how the 2 parts rust welded each other. Usually brass does not corrode this bad. I don't think this will happen again with this arm.
Although there are no verbal instructions, I'm glad this video was posted since its the only one which shows how to replace the backwash rotor valve on older Purex DE filters. My Purex 2000 is 20 years old but still working great. However, my filter's backwash line recently developed a slow leak and now I know how to replace the seals. Thanks. Also, thanks to David Brooks for suggesting the use of a 2x4 to push up on the valve.....great idea.
One more thing: In your video, you use a pair of channel-locks (water pump pliers) to remove the valve by pulling up - I found that placing a 2x4 under the valve (lifting the base ever so slightly) and pressing down on the lower half of the tank pops the valve up nicely, without any risk of damaging the valve (I'm just replacing the $10 seal). Again, thank you for the video! -Dave
Thanks! That helped a lot
Thank you for this video. My valve was really wedged in there, so I added a little cooking oil around the edges and the twisted it to get slick it up. I popped right out
Well, it was helpful - thank you. I wasn't sure how to remove the tapered valve; now I know. A little constructive insight - since it's an instructional video, the music wasn't necessary. Verbal discussion would have made it awesome. Thank you again for the video and effort. -Dave
Very helpful thank you and the tip from a comment to use the 2x4 helped alot
Thank you for this video. Just completed the job today for my first time. Had trouble with getting out the valve itself. What I did was pry it up from the bottom and pulling it up from the top. Other problem was lining the backwash handle with the screw hole because the valve didn’t want to go all the way down, I have to take it out and reset it a couple times before it sat properly. Used a ton of lube to make sure it does t get stuck. Saved me some $$$ but it took me about 3-4 hours with breaks.
Words or text is always helpful for instructional videos.
thank you sir...i needed to know how to replace the bottom monfold and your video helped set me on the right track..job done.filter working like new. Trick: had to grind small opposing flats on the center rod so I can grab it with a wrench
That arm won't come off is there a trick??? I remove that bolt and it will not come off the valve. I'm at a point i have to cut it off somehow. I used a pitman arm pully removal tool and it just won't budge like its welded on.
Thanks I see you unscrewing the center rod. I bought a replacement and it won't screw into the bottom rotor and I can't tell which way your center rod is installed because of video quality on my system. I tried screwing it in but it won't stay. Does this mean the manifold needs to be replaced?
Hi Michael! Thank you for comment! The center rod is threaded into the rotor valve in the bottom of the filter tank. If you are threading it in and it will not stay put, then it is most-likely stripped inside of the rotor valve. The rotor-valve threaded insert is brass and the center-rod is stainless steel, so if it is stripped and not threading properly, then it is usually the brass in the rotor valve that has become damaged. These are very difficult and becoming more expensive, so it may be worth it to start looking into a new filter. Hope this helps! Thank you for choosing Pool Guy Supply!
This is exactly how to do it. I just did one with an older stainless steel tank. The arm under the valve refused to come off!! Ideas?
There is a 7/16" SS Bolt with a Nut that connects the handle to the shaft coming out the bottom, this will need to be removed before the arm will be able to be removed. If you have done this and the arm still refuses to come off, you may just be dealing with brass on brass corrosion at this point. If you absolutely need to remove the arm you can always cut the filter out of the plumbing and flip the filter over to gain better access to the bottom and possibly gain more leverage. Unfortunately that option will require you to re-plum the filter back in after your repairs are made.
Pool guy is right. Cut the pipes to the tank, then take the tank out and torn ut over. Spray the area where the handle is attached to the tapered pin with PB Blaster and let it sit awhile. Then apply a little upload (away from the tank) to the handle and tap it lightly on it's side. It should pop off. If not add a little heat on the handle on the side and apply the upload and tapping again If it still doesn't budge start all over again with the PB Blaster. The idea of the PB Blaster is to break the corrosion down to allow it to release. The tapping on the side is to get the blaster into the joint and the heat is used to expand the hole in the handle to make it a little larger than the tapered pin so don't heat it too long you want the handle hole to be bigger than the pin so you need the handle to be a higher temperature than the pin. If you hold the heat on too long and bring them both (handle and Pin) to the same temperature all you have done is increase the entropy of the universe. If all else fails get yourself a small gear puller and put it on and tighten it down and start the whole PB Blaster approach again.
@@PoolGuySupply I have this corrosion problem the arm won't budge. I may have to either drill through it or cut the arm off. even a pully removal tool will not budge it
@@maxheadroom1506 Unfortunately we do not have any further recommendations past what has already been suggested in the previous comments. You will first need to remove the 7/16" SS Bolt/Nut that connects to the handle of the shaft coming out the bottom to remove the arm. If you still have issues, proceed to cut the filter out of the plumbing, and take Hans Hansf's PB Blaster approach to break down the corrosion. Sorry about this problem you're facing, it is not uncommon with these tanks. Hope this helps!
@@hanshansf5373 I tried gear puller I had to put a steel nut because i was running out of room that nut flattened itself and the arm still did not budge. I'm contemplating drilling through the brass to get the handle off. That handle is expensive and i already puchased a new mechanism with new seals.
my DE tank looses its prime with in a couple hours.i put a new O-ring on the tank, but didn't solve the prime problem.any help would be many thanks. carl
this would have been a per fit video if you would have explained each steps of your repairs.
but thanks anyway ! carl
too bad you are not taking and video going fast
That arm won't come off is there a trick??? I remove that bolt and it will not come off the valve. I'm at a point i have to cut it off somehow. I used a pitman arm pully removal tool and it just won't budge like its welded on.
Hi Max, I will include this response here also just to try and make sure you receive it (I also included it in a response to your reply in a previous question, sorry to just copy/paste!). Unfortunately we do not have any further recommendations past what has already been suggested in the previous comments. You will first need to remove the 7/16" SS Bolt/Nut that connects to the handle of the shaft coming out the bottom to remove the arm. If you still have issues, proceed to cut the filter out of the plumbing, and take Hans Hansf's PB Blaster approach to break down the corrosion. Sorry about this problem you're facing, it is not uncommon with these tanks. Hope this helps!
@@PoolGuySupply Update. I drilled out the brass and was able to break off the arm and remove the valve. I then took the broken arm and was able to pound out the leftovers of the brass inside the arm by alternating directions. After the arm was free of debris I sanded the internal and was able to reinstall everything. It is crazy how the 2 parts rust welded each other. Usually brass does not corrode this bad. I don't think this will happen again with this arm.